CHAPTER 1

JAMS, SYRUPS, BUTTERS, AND OTHER FRUIT PRESERVES

This chapter primarily contains recipes for sweet fruit spreads, syrups, and preserves inspired by the fruits, the flavors, and the celebrations of the Jewish diaspora. There are also a few savory fruit-based recipes and a few sweet vegetable-based recipes.

When preserving, you will always have the best results with in-season, local fruits. Some of the recipes call for fruits that can be hard to source, such as currants or quince. Your best chance of finding these is at your local farmers’ market. I offer suggestions on where to source any fruit that is not readily available at your local grocery store.

A few of the recipes rely on dried fruits—which have always been a popular ingredient in Jewish cuisine—and therefore are appropriate for year-round canning. Other recipes incorporate citrus fruits, which played a significant role in the history of the Jewish people—or should I say, the Jewish people have played a significant role in the history of citrus. The best citrus fruits are available during the winter. So you should find a canning project in this chapter for any month of the year.

When making jam, the goal is to achieve a spreadable, gelled consistency. Sometimes canners add pectin to their jams to facilitate gelling. Pectin is a naturally occurring substance that gives fruit its structure; when cooked with sugar and acid, it causes fruit spreads to gel. Some fruits are naturally high in pectin and others are not. As a nod to traditional methods of making jam, none of the recipes in this book call for additional pectin. Thus, you need to cook the jam recipes to the gelling point of 220°F (104°C). A candy thermometer is useful for this process.

There are also many old-fashioned ways to test whether your preserve has gelled. One method that I like is the freezer test: Place a saucer in the freezer when you begin cooking your preserve. When you think the preserve is done, place a small dab on the chilled saucer and return it to the freezer for one minute. Then, remove the saucer and push the preserve with your finger. If it wrinkles and appears to be set, it is ready.

Due to the lack of added pectin, some of the jams in this book have a softer set than store-bought jam. That is commonplace for many typical Jewish preserves, particularly Sephardic and Russian jams which were traditionally eaten with a spoon as opposed to spread on bread. These soft-set jams are both delicious and versatile.

POLISH STRAWBERRY RHUBARB JAM

My father’s family hails from Poland: Krakow to be exact. Both strawberries and rhubarb grow abundantly in Poland, coming into season in June. Rhubarb is a favorite among Eastern Europeans, and it finds its way into everything from beverages and soups to compotes and desserts. It is tart and so is usually combined with other fruit or the quintessential Eastern European sweetener, honey.

This jam has a soft set because both strawberries and rhubarb are low in acid and pectin. Lemon juice adds some much-needed acidity. Because of its runny consistency, this jam is lovely as a topping for cheese blintzes. Happily, the traditional holiday for serving blintzes, Shavuot, often falls during late spring—peak strawberry and rhubarb season.

MAKES SIX 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

4 cups (488 g) sliced rhubarb

4 cups (680 g) lightly crushed strawberries

2 lemons

5 cups (1 kg) sugar

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat six 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill. Zest and juice the lemons, reserving the rind and seeds.

Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a large, deep saucepan. Tie the rinds and seeds in cheesecloth and add to the pot; this will add pectin to the jam and help it set.

Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and boil until the rhubarb breaks down, about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the sugar all at once and return to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil until the jam begins to come off a spoon in a thick stream rather than droplets, between 15 and 30 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer. Place a dollop of jam on it and return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then it is set. (It will be a soft-set jam.) If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and skim off any foam. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ RED CURRANT AND KIDDUSH WINE JELLY

Tart, tiny red currants may be foreign to most Americans, but Europeans cook with them frequently. Currants are a hardy crop and easy to grow, making them ideal for the harsh climate of eastern and northern Europe. They grow abundantly in Poland and Russia, where they have been cultivated since the eleventh century, and the fruits appear in all kinds of preserves and desserts from that region.

Red currant jelly is an old-fashioned confection that is used to glaze fruit tarts or strawberries. It also works well in savory dishes. Indeed, red currant jelly is used to make Cumberland sauce, a classic British accompaniment to game and lamb.

Here, I combine juice from red currants with a fruity red wine to create a rich, plummy, but still tart, jelly. I like to use sweet kiddush wine, such as Manischevitz—usually the bottle that has been sitting in the refrigerator since Passover. But any sweet, fruity red wine will do. This jelly goes very well with cheese. You can also use it as part of the gravy in your favorite brisket recipe.

MAKES TWO 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

21/2 pounds (1.2 kg) red currants, stems removed (Stems can impart a bitter flavor.)

2 cups (475 ml) fruity red wine

Rind of 1 orange

1 cinnamon stick

Sugar (amount will vary)

Combine the currants, wine, orange rind, and cinnamon stick in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil gently for 30 minutes, mashing the currants a bit to help release their juices.

Set a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth or a jelly bag over a deep bowl. Ladle the currant mixture into the sieve or jelly bag and allow to drain undisturbed for at least 6 hours or overnight. Do not press on the fruit to extract more juice because that can cause cloudiness. The following day, prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Measure the liquid in the bowl. In a large saucepan, combine the juice with an equal amount of sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Boil for 5 minutes. This jelly gels quickly because of the high pectin content of currants.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jelly on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jelly is set. If not, continue to cook the jelly and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jelly from the heat and skim off any foam. Ladle the jelly into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Note: Fresh currants are not to be confused with the small dried fruit of the same name, which are actually dried grapes. Currants grow on shrubs.

RASPBERRY RED CURRANT JAM

Red currants are an excellent source of vitamin C, a fact which my Polish ancestors could not have known. But they certainly knew that these tiny berries had medicinal properties. In the shtetl, currant and berry syrups were often administered as tonics to the sick and weak. Interestingly, one of the first symptoms of scurvy, or vitamin C deficiency, is fatigue, so it is possible that the sick who were given these syrups were cured of what ailed them.

Red currants are also high in pectin and so are frequently combined with other, lower pectin fruits, such as raspberries and apricots, to make jams and jellies more spreadable. This combination of raspberries and red currants is a favorite of mine. It is best to use red currant purée rather than the whole fruit because both red currants and raspberries are quite seedy.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

2 pints (448 g) red currants, de-stemmed

1/2 cup (120 ml) water

2 pints (500 g) red raspberries

3 cups (600 g) sugar

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the currants and the water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat and simmer until the currants have burst, about 5 minutes. Mash them a bit with a potato masher.

Strain the currant mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. Stir and press down on the fruit to extract as much pulp and juice as possible, leaving behind only the seeds and skin. Measure the red currant purée and discard the solids. You should have between 11/2 and 2 cups (345 to 460 g).

Return the purée to the saucepan and add the raspberries. Crush the raspberries with a potato masher. Add the sugar and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium-high. Boil the jam, stirring constantly, for 10 to 12 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and skim off any foam. Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Finding Red Currants

Red currants turn from white to a glossy ruby-red and are ready to pick in early July. It can be hard to find these members of the Ribes family. When you do find them, usually at farmers’ markets, they can be shockingly expensive. Nevertheless, it is worth splurging on a few pints every year if only to make this exquisite jam. Or perhaps you can find a source to pick your own. I pick red currants from a friend’s backyard shrubs; she lets me pick the entire crop in exchange for a jar or two of jam.

ROSE PETAL SYRUP

Rose-flavored beverages, ice cream, and other sweets, including Turkish delight, are common throughout the Middle East, the Levant, and India. In the Sephardic world, rose-flavored dishes are traditional for Shavuot, which is known as the Feast of the Roses because of the custom of decorating the synagogue with rose petals for the holiday.

Use this stunning pink syrup to flavor beverages, whipped cream, or homemade ice cream. It is also delicious drizzled on pound cake or the Egyptian Semolina Cake.

Make sure to source organic, unsprayed rose petals to use in cooking. The more fragrant the flowers, the stronger the flavor. For a beautiful deep red or pink syrup, choose healthy, brightly colored petals and use them soon after harvesting.

MAKES 1 PINT (475 ML)

2 cups (32 g) loosely packed rose petals

11/2 cups (355 ml) water

2 cups (400 g) sugar

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Rose water (if needed)

Place the rose petals in a heatproof glass bowl. Bring the water to a boil and pour it over the rose petals. Cover and allow to steep for at least 2 hours.

Squeeze the petals to extract as much liquid as possible.

Strain out the petals and any seeds and pour the liquid into a medium saucepan. It should be red or pink in color. Add the sugar and heat over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice. If your rose petals did not infuse the syrup with enough of a rose flavor, you can also add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of rose water, but use caution. Too much rose water will make your syrup taste like soap or perfume. Pour the syrup into a clean and sterlized pint (475 ml) jar and store in the refrigerator for several months.

◁ SHTETL RASPBERRY SYRUP

Raspberry syrup is a beautiful, delicious concoction that is perfect for flavoring lemonade, iced tea, or that traditional Jewish favorite, seltzer. You can also use raspberry syrup to make elegant and festive cocktails. And it has many uses beyond beverages: Use it as a topping for ice cream or yogurt. Pour it on your breakfast pancakes and waffles. Or transform a simple pound cake into a dessert fit for company.

In the past, raspberry syrup was far more than something to mix into your drink or enjoy on your dessert. Claudia Roden writes in The Book of Jewish Food that it was given as a tonic to the sick in the shtetls of eastern Europe and Russia. There is a first-hand account of this practice in the memoir of Bernard Abrahams, a Lithuanian Jew born in 1880 who emigrated first to South Africa before settling in Israel. In Mayne zibetsik yor, Abrahams writes: ”Blueberries and red raspberries grew abundantly in the nearby forests. On the long summer days, the villagers would hike into the forests and pick to their hearts’ content. From the berries they would cook all sorts of soups and syrups for winter, to be used by the ill and feeble.”

Although we have more effective cures today, I like the idea of preserving the flavor and color of raspberries at their peak—in late summer and fall—and enjoying their goodness all year long. Who knows, maybe a dose of raspberry syrup will help you beat that winter cold!

MAKES FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

4 pints (about 9 cups, or 1.1 kg) raspberries

2 cups (475 ml) water

4 cups (800 g) sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Combine the raspberries and water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, mashing the berries with a potato masher or fork. Simmer the berries for 5 minutes until broken down.

Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. Stir the pulp in the sieve to extract as much juice as possible. You can also leave the pulp in the sieve for an hour to allow more liquid to drain. Measure the raspberry juice; you should have approximately 1 quart (950 ml).

Return the juice to the saucepan. Add the sugar and lemon juice. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil hard for 1 minute.

Remove the syrup from the heat and skim off any foam that has accumulated. Ladle the syrup into the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Skim off any foam on the top of the syrup. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

RASPBERRY SYRUP: A TONIC FOR THE SICK

Why did Jews in the shtetl view raspberry syrup as having medicinal properties? To be sure, raspberries are high in vitamin C and act as an anti-inflammatory. As a result, raspberry syrup may have actually helped to heal some of the people that were dosed with it, depending on the nature of their complaints.

Before modern medicine, raspberry syrup was held in such high esteem as a cure because red foods, such as raspberries, were believed to aid the body in weaknesses related to the heart or to blood, which, of course, is also red. Indeed, William Harvey, who discovered the circulation of the blood in 1626, stated that: “From consideration of the colouring of each thing comes the knowledge of the degree of its kinship to blood, its temperament and active movement.” Thus, raspberry syrup, with its bright red color, also would have been used to strengthen a weak person by fortifying his or her blood.

BLACK CURRANT SYRUP

As one might guess from their inky blue-black hue, black currants are packed with nutrients, including vitamins C and A, iron, potassium, magnesium, zinc, folic acid, and flavonoids. Black currants have been shown to act as an anti-inflammatory and to fight infection. Long before they knew about vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, Jews in eastern Europe knew that foods had medicinal properties, and they used them in all sorts of folk cures, from fevers to gout to arthritis. Even the leaves, bark, and roots of the black currant bush were mashed and boiled to make folk remedies.

This syrup is delicious mixed with seltzer or as an ingredient in cocktails. With its high concentration of vitamin C, it also is a surprisingly effective remedy for colds, sore throats, and coughs. Polish and Russian Jews used it for that purpose for centuries. Look for black currants at farmers’ markets in June and July. If you are unable to find black currants near you, you can order frozen berries or concentrate online.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

3 pints black currants (about 21/2 pounds, or 1 kg), stems removed

21/2 cups (570 ml) water

1/3 cup (80 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 cups (400 g) sugar

Combine the black currants and water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the currants begin to break down, about 10 minutes. Crush the currants with a fork or potato masher.

Place the currants in a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth set over a large bowl. Allow to drain for at least 6 hours and preferably overnight. Press down on or squeeze the currants to extract as much juice as possible. Discard the solids.

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Measure the black currant juice. You should have about 2 cups (475 ml). Combine the black currant juice, lemon juice, and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil the mixture hard for 1 minute. Skim off any foam that has accumulated.

Ladle the syrup into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. If any foam or bubbles appear on the top of the syrup, skim that off and wipe the lids again. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Jews and Seltzer

You can mix any of the syrups in this book with carbonated water—whether you call it seltzer, club soda, or soda water—for a refreshing and brightly colored beverage. Seltzer is a particular form of carbonated water that, unlike club soda, does not contain salt. In the United States, seltzer is so closely associated with Jewish people that it used to be known as Jewish champagne.

The name seltzer comes from the German town of Niederselters, which began producing a naturally carbonated mineral water during the Renaissance. It was sold as a health tonic. In the nineteenth century, the technology for sealing carbonated water in bottles as well as the soda siphon were invented, creating the modern carbonated beverage industry.

Sparkling water, which could be flavored with syrup, was a useful beverage for Jews observing the kosher laws, who could not drink milk with meat meals. Many Jews in eastern Europe and Russia entered the seltzer business. When Jews began emigrating in large numbers to the United States, they brought the industry with them. Soon there was a new fixture of city life—the seltzer man, who every week delivered the green and blue siphon bottles (sometimes decorated with stars of David).

Until the 1950s, the neighborhood candy store was the center of communal life in New York. You could order a plain seltzer for two cents or a flavored one for three cents. Better yet, you could order an egg cream, which combined chocolate syrup, milk, and seltzer. After the Second World War, the role of seltzer diminished as sweetened carbonated beverages, like Coca-Cola (which finally became kosher in the 1950s), gained favor.

Today, with the popularity of home water-carbonation machines, we are in a new golden age of sparkling water, and, along with it, there is a renewed interest in homemade drink syrups.

BLACK CURRANT JAM

Black currants have a complex, slightly musky taste and aroma. They are native to northern Europe and Siberia, where they thrive during the long, cold winters. Although they are beloved in Europe, Americans are even less familiar with black currants than they are with red currants. Perhaps you have experienced their unique flavor in the French black currant liqueur, crème de cassis, which when mixed with white wine makes a delicious aperitif called a kir. Crème de cassis mixed with champagne is even more delicious and known as a kir royale.

Black currants are a gift to jam makers because they naturally contain just the right amounts of pectin and acidity. Because black currants are so tart, this jam contains equal amounts fruit and sugar. The water is necessary to ensure that the final product is not too thick. Because black currants are so high in pectin, be careful not to overcook your jam or you will end up with a final product that is too firm to spread.

MAKES TWO TO THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

1 pound black currants (about 11/2 pints, or 455 g), stems removed

1 cup (235 ml) water

2 cups (400 g) sugar

Squeeze of fresh lemon juice

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the currants and water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat and simmer until the currants have burst and begin to break down, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the sugar and lemon juice and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Raise the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Boil the jam, stirring constantly, until it reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and skim off any foam that has accumulated. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

QUEEN ESTHER’S APRICOT–POPPY SEED JAM

Although not a traditional combination for jam, apricot and poppy seed are both traditional Purim foods. There are different stories about why Jews eat dishes containing poppy seeds at Purim. One poetic story is that Queen Esther subsisted on them during a three-day fast while she prayed to God to repeal Haman’s murderous decree. Another is that when Queen Esther was living in the court of the Persian king and hiding her Jewish faith, she ate a vegetarian diet of mostly nuts and seeds to avoid breaking the kosher laws.

Purim usually falls in March, before apricots come into season. I suggest preparing this jam in advance, when apricots are in season in June or July, and saving it for next Purim. It makes a wonderful filling for Hamentaschen or an impressive addition to michlach manot.

MAKES THREE OR FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

6 cups diced apricots (approximately 3 pounds, or 1.4 kg)

31/2 cups (700 g) sugar

1 lemon

2 tablespoons (18 g) poppy seeds

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the apricots and sugar in a large, deep saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Boil until the fruit has broken down, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the zest and juice of the lemon and continue to boil.

When the jam appears thick and comes off a spoon in a sheet rather than in thin droplets, test for doneness. Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and stir in the poppy seeds. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Michlach Manot

One of the central Purim rituals is michlach manot: sending gifts of food to friends and family.

There are a few rules about michlach manot: You are supposed to use a go-between to send gifts, not simply give them to the recipient. Also, the gift should include at least two different ready-to-eat foods.

Many of the recipes in this book would make charming Purim gifts, including Hamantaschen, which are a Purim must-have, and a special jar of your homemade jam.

◁ APRICOT WALNUT EINGEMACHT

Eingemacht is a Yiddish word for preserves or jams made with fruit—or even root vegetables, such as radishes or beets—cooked in honey or sugar. Eingemachts were traditionally served for special occasions, such as Passover, but when sugar became more affordable in the nineteenth century, they became commonplace. A proud Russian or Polish Jewish housewife would serve her homemade eingemachts to guests as an accompaniment to scalding hot tea or bring them to her hostess as a house gift.

This apricot walnut conserve is similar to a traditional eingemacht because it includes dried fruits and nuts in addition to fresh fruit. However, traditional eingemachts were more akin to what we now call preserves, with fruit and nuts suspended in thick syrup. This spread’s texture is more similar to jam. It makes a wonderful filling for Hamantaschen or sponge cake. Or simply spread it on challah or buttered matzo.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

4 cups (660 g) diced fresh apricots

3 cups (600 g) sugar

1/2 cup (65 g) diced dried apricots

1/2 cup (120 ml) orange juice

2 tablespoons (28 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup (60 g) diced walnuts

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the fresh apricots, sugar, dried apricots, orange juice, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Reduce the heat to medium and continue to boil for 10 minutes. Add the walnuts and boil for an additional 5 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, it is done. If not, return it to the heat, cook a few more minutes, and try the test again.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ APRICOTS IN HEAVY SYRUP (APRICOT SPOON SWEET)

Brought to Spain by the Arabs during the Middle Ages, apricots are among the most commonly preserved fruits in the Sephardic world. Following their expulsion from Spain, many Spanish Jews settled in Turkey, where apricots grew in abundance. Apricots, along with oranges and quince, became one of the fruits that Sephardic housewives turned into dulces, or spoon sweets, thick confections of fruit preserved in syrup.

In Turkey and the Middle East, Jewish hosts customarily offered visitors coffee and a spoonful of dulce, which was served from glass bowls on silver trays. These special household items were often part of a bride’s dowry. A spoonful of dulce was also a common way to celebrate Shabbat. Following the death of a close relative, a mourner would refrain from taking dulce with his coffee for one year. After the mourning period ended, a neighbor would bring the mourner some of her homemade dulce to mark his or her reintegration into the everyday world.

I suggest we take a note from the cooks who invented these luscious sweets and enjoy them in moderation. A spoonful or two straight out of the jar is a perfect after-dinner treat. Or spoon a few apricots and some syrup over ice cream or pound cake to transform those humble foods into an elegant dessert. This recipe makes more syrup than you will likely need; it can be stored in the refrigerator and used to sweeten beverages.

MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)

3 pounds (1.4 kg) apricots

Juice of 1 lemon

5 cups (1 kg) sugar

5 cups (1.2 L) water

Wash, halve, and pit the apricots. Toss gently with the lemon juice to prevent them from browning. Set aside.

To make the syrup, combine the sugar and water in a large, wide pan such as a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the apricots and any accumulated juices to the syrup, spooning them in carefully to keep the apricots in one layer. Simmer for 5 minutes, gently pushing the apricot halves to submerge them in the syrup, but taking care not to crush or mash the fruit. Turn off the heat and let the fruit and syrup cool. Refrigerate for twenty-four hours. The following day, prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars. Using a slotted spoon, remove the apricots from the syrup and set them aside. Pour the syrup into the same low, wide pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat slightly and boil for 5 to 7 minutes. The temperature should register 210°F to 220°F (99°C to 104°C) on a candy thermometer. Skim off any foam or scum that accumulates.

When the syrup has reduced by one-third to one-half, carefully add the apricots in one layer and heat them through. Divide the fruit among the three jars, taking care not to crush or damage it. Ladle the syrup over the fruit in the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Note: It is inevitable that the fruit will float to the top of the jars. Do not be concerned. Packing the fruit as tightly as possible will minimize “fruit float.”

◁ APRICOT-ORANGE BLOSSOM JAM

Apricots are a low-acid and low-pectin fruit, so this jam has a soft set. It has the looser texture typical of Sephardic jams, which were traditionally eaten straight out of the jar or stirred into yogurt, rather than spread onto bread as jam is in the Western world. Using barely ripe or even underripe apricots will ensure that the final product is more jam than syrup.

Orange blossom water is a distillation of the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is a common flavoring in Middle Eastern, North African, Persian, and Turkish cuisines, and it is a symbol of good fortune in the Jewish communities from these regions. You can find it at Middle Eastern grocers and spice stores or online. Its delicate floral taste makes it an intriguing and unusual addition to pastries, desserts, and even cocktails.

MAKES FIVE OR SIX 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

8 cups sliced, pitted apricots (approximately 3 pounds, or 1.4 kg)

4 cups (800 g) sugar

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon (15 ml) orange blossom water

Combine the apricots, sugar, and lemon zest and juice in a large bowl and stir gently to combine. Cover and refrigerate overnight, stirring occasionally to distribute the sugar. The result will be slightly shriveled slices of fruit in a thick syrup. Stir to dissolve any remaining sugar.

The following day, prepare a boiling water bath and heat six 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Drain the fruit, reserving the syrup. Place the syrup in a large, deep saucepan. The jam will foam and bubble dramatically as it cooks, so be certain to use a large pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the fruit and return to a boil. Stirring constantly to prevent scorching, boil the jam hard for 10 to 15 minutes.

When the fruit has broken down, remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and allow the boiling to subside. Stir in the orange blossom water. Skim off any foam that has accumulated. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. If there are burned or caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan, avoid those. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to one year.

GOOSEBERRY JAM

Gooseberries are beloved in Europe, but unfamiliar to most Americans. There is a straightforward explanation for this. In the early 1900s, the U.S. government banned the cultivation of currants and gooseberries, which belong to the same genus, under the belief that they hosted a disease that infected pine trees. The ban was only lifted in the 1960s.

Native to northern Europe, gooseberries flourish in cooler climes. Although the fruit is most commonly associated with British cuisine, gooseberries grow abundantly in Germany, Holland, the Czech Republic, Poland, and Scandinavia. Before people in northern countries had easy access to the citrus fruits grown in southern Europe, gooseberries and currants were used to add tartness to cooked dishes. Gooseberries even pop up in savory foods, such as bigos, a Polish meat stew.

Gooseberries are naturally high in pectin, making them ideal for jam and jelly. Despite the absence of added pectin, this is a jam with a firm set. A good source of vitamin C, gooseberries would no doubt have been preserved by Polish Jews, as well as their Gentile neighbors, to last through the long winter. Unlike most berries, gooseberries are relatively hardy, and they will last for a week or more in the refrigerator after picking.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

2 pints (600 g) gooseberries

1 cup (235 ml) water

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

3 cups (600 g) sugar

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Remove the stems and blossom ends from the gooseberries, a process known as topping and tailing the berries. The easiest way to do this is with kitchen shears.

Combine the gooseberries, water, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat and then turn down the heat and simmer until the berries break down, about 15 minutes. Add the sugar all at once and return to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil the jam hard for 10 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and skim off any foam. Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

SOUR CHERRY AND ALMOND CONSERVE

In eastern Europe, Jewish cooks often added chopped bitter almonds to their homemade jams, particularly plum, berry, and cherry. Bitter almonds have a strong and unique flavor that is different from the sweet almonds we eat today. Raw, bitter almonds contain a form of cyanide and thus can be dangerous to consume. (The cyanide evaporates when cooked, so none of the wives and mothers back in the shtetl were poisoning their families.) Nevertheless, it remains illegal to sell bitter almonds in the United States, although not in Europe where bitter almond is used to flavor pastries, candies, and liqueurs. This recipe is inspired by those traditional Ashkenazi jams incorporating bitter almond, but it uses safe, sweet almonds instead.

Almonds are a symbol of good luck and fruitfulness for the Jewish people, and they are used in many traditional Ashkenazi and Sephardic dishes, including many kinds of charoset.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

3 pounds (1.4 kg) frozen sour cherries, thawed

1 cup (235 ml) juice from the thawed cherries

2 cups (400 g) sugar

1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice

1/4 cup (28 g) slivered blanched almonds

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the cherries, cherry juice, sugar, and lemon juice in a large, deep saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Boil, stirring frequently, until the liquid is thick and syrupy and the cherries have shrunk and become wizened, about 30 minutes. Lower the heat to medium as needed to prevent scorching.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place several cherries and spoonful of syrup on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the syrup with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the conserve is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and add the almonds and allspice.

Ladle the conserve into the clean, warm jars, taking care to distribute the almonds evenly, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth.

Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ RUSSIAN-STYLE SOUR CHERRY PRESERVES

Cherries are an ancient fruit but unlike many other ancient fruits, do not appear anywhere in the Bible or Talmud. Nevertheless, as cherries grow abundantly throughout Europe and the Middle East, they are a vital part of both Ashkenazi and Sephardic Jewish cuisines.

There are two kinds of cherries: sweet and sour. Sweet cherries can be eaten fresh. Sour cherries, which are smaller and less shiny, are primarily used for baking, preserving, and juice. I find that most sweet cherries, while delicious for eating out of hand, can be cloying as a jam, so I use sour cherries for preserving. Sour cherries are notoriously fragile and perishable, and they are not usually sold in grocery stores. You may have to seek them out at a local farmers’ market during their relatively short season, but it is worth the effort.

This kind of cherry preserve, with whole fruits suspended in syrup, is typical of Russian cuisine. The fruit preserves are not spread on bread or toast, but rather eaten with a spoon to accompany tea. You may enjoy these cherries over ice cream, as a topping for cheese blintzes, or swirled into yogurt.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

2 pounds (910 g) sour cherries, pitted

2 cups (400 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Combine the cherries, sugar, and lemon juice in a large pot. Let it sit for an hour until the cherries have released their juices and the sugar has mostly dissolved. If using frozen cherries, thaw them completely before continuing.

Stir the fruit and collected juices. Add the cinnamon and cloves and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, about 20 minutes. It may seem watery, but it will thicken as it cools.

Ladle an even amount of cherries and syrup into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars well, adding more syrup if necessary, and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance.

Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Note: You may have leftover syrup. Save it to flavor seltzer or cocktails.

◁ ALSATIAN BRANDIED SOUR CHERRIES

In the past, Ashkenazi Jews from France to Russia made spirits from sour cherries in part because cherries, unlike grapes, do not require any special supervision under the kosher laws when fermented into alcohol. This recipe combines sour cherries and brandy. It is inspired by the well-known cherry brandy, kirsch, which is part of the Jewish cuisine of Alsace and western Germany. Use these brandied cherries to garnish cocktails, especially Manhattans, or as a dessert topping.

Sour cherries freeze exceptionally well, so your enjoyment of them does not have to be limited to their short season. I recommend buying pitted cherries to freeze or, if you are more enterprising than I am, pit your own cherries before freezing. This recipe specifically calls for frozen cherries to make use of your freezer stash.

Use the tall, 12-ounce (355 ml) jars here for an especially attractive presentation.

MAKES THREE 12-OUNCE (355 ML) JARS

1 cup (200 g) sugar

3/4 cup (175 ml) water

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or 1/2 of a vanilla bean

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

2 pounds (910 g) frozen sour cherries (pitted), unthawed

1/2 cup (120 ml) brandy

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 12-ounce (355 ml) jars.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar, water, vanilla bean paste, and lemon juice. (If using a vanilla bean, slice the bean open lengthwise and scrape the interior into the pan. Then add the bean itself.) Stir to dissolve the sugar.

When the sugar is dissolved, reduce the heat to low and add the frozen cherries. Stir gently to coat them with the syrup and simmer over low heat until the cherries are thawed and release their juices, about 10 to 15 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the cherries and syrup are hot, stirring occasionally, about 10 more minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the brandy and stir to gently combine. Remove the vanilla bean (if using).

Fill the clean, warm jars with the cherries and syrup, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and add more cherries or syrup, as necessary, to maintain the headspace. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance.

Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Note: I recommend vanilla bean paste or a vanilla bean in this recipe instead of vanilla extract because of the high heat and long cooking time.

MULBERRY JAM

Mulberries were one of the most important berries for people of the ancient Mediterranean and were consumed by the Jews in Israel during Biblical times. Sephardic Jews from the Middle East and the Levant incorporated mulberries into their cuisine, using them to make syrup, jam, or fruit paste. Mulberries remain a popular fruit for eating and preserving in the eastern Mediterranean today.

Most Americans, however, are not familiar with fresh mulberries or, at least, they are not familiar with them as a fruit to eat. Soft and fragile, fresh mulberries are nearly impossible to find in stores or even farmers’ markets. There are mulberry trees all over the country. But the fruits are difficult to harvest because the trees are tall and the berries do not ripen at the same time.

The best way to harvest mulberries is to lay a clean sheet or tarp under the tree and then shake the branches. The ripe berries will fall to the ground. Their taste is similar to that of a blackberry but sweeter and less juicy. If you can forage mulberries from a tree in your area when they ripen in early summer, I encourage you to do so and give mulberry jam a try. It’s a clever way to get something for nothing.

MAKES TWO 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

1 quart (560 g) mulberries

11/3 cups (266 g) sugar

Juice of 1/2 of a lemon

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat two 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Place a layer of berries in the bottom of a bowl and gently mash with the tines of a fork. Repeat, adding berries one layer at a time, until all the berries are mashed.

Combine the mashed berries, sugar, and lemon juice in a large deep saucepan or Dutch oven. Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the jam is thickened, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Take the jam off the heat. Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a spoonful of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove it and push the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then it is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

FAUX MULBERRY JAM (BLUEBERRY AND BLACKBERRY JAM)

If you cannot find mulberries to harvest near you or are wary of eating the ones you do find, this combination of blueberries and blackberries mimics the sweet-tart taste of the mulberry as well as its deep, purple color. This faux mulberry jam is popular with everyone, especially children, and is lovely spread on challah.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

21/2 cups (363 g) blackberries (1 heaping pint)

21/2 cups (363 g) blueberries (1 heaping pint)

13/4 cups (350 g) sugar (approximately)

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Place a layer of berries in the bottom of a bowl and gently mash with the tines of a fork. Repeat, adding berries one layer at a time, until all the berries are mashed. Measure the mashed berries and then pour them into a large pot or Dutch oven.

Divide the amount of mashed berries in half and add that amount of sugar to the pot. (For example, if you end up with 31/2 cups [700 g] of mashed berries, use 13/4 cups [350 g] of sugar.)

Stir the berries and sugar together in the pot and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes so that the mixture becomes juicy and the sugar dissolves.

Add the lemon juice, zest, and ginger and stir well. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat slightly and continue cooking, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the berry mixture reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, about 20 minutes. Skim off any foam that has accumulated.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a spoonful of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ SWEET AND SOUR PEACH KETCHUP

The idea that ketchup is made with tomatoes is a fairly recent innovation. Ketchup, which is no more than a slow-simmered sauce made with fruit, vinegar, and spices, had a storied history in Asia and Europe long before the people of those continents encountered tomatoes, which are, after all, a New World crop.

The combination of sweet and sour flavors, such as ketchup’s combination of fruit and vinegar, is a hallmark of Ashkenazi cuisine. Gil Marks notes in the Encyclopedia of Jewish Food that preparing dishes ahead of time to serve on Shabbat, in keeping with the prohibition against kindling a fire on the holiday, led Jewish cooks to rely on vinegar as a preservative. Sweet flavors were then added to cut the sharpness of the vinegar.

For centuries, Jewish cooks made ketchups of all kinds with the fruits and vegetables available to them. Here I have updated the tradition to create a peach ketchup. The sweet, tangy flavor of this ketchup is outstanding on turkey burgers and chicken sandwiches. My family also enjoys it on sweet potato fries.

MAKES FIVE OR SIX 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

5 pounds (2.3 kg) yellow peaches, peeled and diced

1 yellow onion, diced

3 cloves of garlic, minced

2 cups (475 ml) apple cider vinegar

11/2 cups (340 g) brown sugar

1 tablespoon (18 g) pickling salt

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat six 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down and simmer until the peaches are soft, about 10 minutes. Purée the mixture using an immersion blender or in batches in a food processor.

Return the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat again, and simmer until the ketchup is thick, spreadable, and will mound up on a spoon, about 1 to 11/2 hours.

Ladle the ketchup into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ PEACHES IN HONEY SYRUP

Honey was the most important sweetener for Europeans until the eighteenth century when the Caribbean became home to large numbers of sugar plantations. Even then, sugar remained an expensive luxury item for most until the emergence of European sugar beet refineries in the nineteenth century. Thus, honey-sweetened side dishes, such as tzimmes, and desserts, such as honey cake, are common in Ashkenazi cuisine. Honey is a traditional food for Rosh Hashanah and is used to symbolize the hope that the coming year will be a sweet one.

Honey adds both sweetness and flavor to these preserved peach halves. These peaches would be delicious over ice cream or cake, but they are very satisfying on their own with a dollop of Greek yogurt or crème fraîche. The leftover syrup can be used to sweeten beverages or glaze a cake. A note: do not waste your expensive raw honey on this project because the heat from the boiling water bath will destroy the beneficial antioxidants and subtle flavor.

MAKES 4 QUARTS (3.8 L)

8 pounds (3.6 kg) peaches

Juice of 1 lemon

4 cups (950 ml) water

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

11/2 cups (510 g) honey

8 cinnamon sticks

8 whole cloves

8 whole allspice berries

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 quart (950 ml) jars. Do not cover the jars completely with water, otherwise the water level will be too high when you return the filled jars to the pot.

Peel and halve the peaches, removing the stone. Take care to keep the peach halves intact. Save any that break for another use.

Place the peach halves in a large bowl and spritz with lemon juice to keep them from browning.

In a large saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and honey. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and then remove.

Working quickly, remove one of the jars from the water bath and fill it with peach halves, packing the fruit in as tightly as possible without damaging it. Place 2 cinnamon sticks, 2 whole cloves, and 2 allspice berries in the jar. Repeat with the remaining 3 jars.

Ladle the syrup over the fruit, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 25 minutes, making sure that the water covers the jars. (The jars will siphon quite a bit.) Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

SLOW COOKER PEACH LEKVAR (PEACH BUTTER)

According to the Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, fruit butter was traditionally made by boiling fruit outdoors over an open fire for hours, with people taking turns stirring the kettle. The fruit butter could then be stored in crocks to last through winter. In Europe, the most common fruit butter was made with plums, but apricots, apples, and peaches were also preserved in the same way.

Think of the slow cooker as the modern-day equivalent of that outdoor kettle. Peach butter still takes hours to cook down to the desired consistency, but at least with a slow cooker almost all of that time is passive. You will be delighted with how easy this project is, and the results are heavenly.

MAKES SIX 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

6 pounds (2.7 kg) peaches, peeled and pitted

3 cups (600 g) sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Purée the peaches in a food processor by pulsing several times, but stop when they are still chunky and not liquified. Add the purée and sugar to the bowl of the slow cooker.

Set the slow cooker to high and prop the lid open with the handle of a wooden spoon to allow for evaporation.

Cook the peach butter until it is dark, thick, and spreadable, checking it frequently. Occasionally, scrape down the sides and stir the mixture with the wooden spoon. The cooking process should take 6 to 8 hours, depending on the size of your slow cooker and the moisture level of the fruit.

When your fruit butter is close to done, prepare a boiling water bath and heat six 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. When you have achieved the texture you want, add the lemon juice and stir to combine.

Ladle peach butter into the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.*

Note: If you do not have a slow cooker, make this recipe in a deep, wide saucepan or Dutch oven. It will take much less time, but will require more involvement on your part. To make peach butter in a regular pot, bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until thick and concentrated. This could take up to two hours.

*Because fruit butters contain less sugar than jams, they have a shorter shelf life.

◁ SUMMER TO FALL PEACH-FIG JAM

This jam symbolizes the transition from summer to fall with a combination of ancient and revered fruits. Figs are one of the Seven Species eaten by Jews in the land of Israel during Biblical times, and peaches are one of the new fruits mentioned in the Talmud.

Peaches leave the farmers’ market just as fresh figs begin to appear in stores. With luck, there will be a brief period where the two overlap, perhaps right around Rosh Hashanah. Indeed, both figs and peaches are traditional Rosh Hashanah foods for many Sephardic communities. Capture that magical moment with this luscious, honey-scented jam. When you open a bottle in the dead of winter, you will be glad you did. Perhaps you will be reminded of your hopes and wishes for the new year and reflect on whether they have come to fruition.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

1 pound (about 1 overflowing pint, or 455 g) figs, stemmed and diced

1 pound (about 3 large, or 455 g) peeled and diced yellow peaches

3 tablespoons (45 ml) lemon juice

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

1 cup (340 g) honey

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Place the figs, peaches, lemon juice, sugar, and honey in a wide, deep saucepan. Slowly bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. If the pieces of peach are large, crush them slightly with a potato masher to help them break down. Boil, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the jam thickens and fruit breaks down, about 15 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and stir in the cinnamon. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ PLUM LEKVAR (PLUM BUTTER)

Plum preserves and plum brandy are both very typical of central European, not just Ashkenazi, cuisine. Plum plants require a long period of winter chilling, making them suitable for the harsh climate of that part of the world. The season for plums was short, so thrifty housewives often dried the fruit, which they could use for compotes and cakes throughout the winter.

Plum butter was another popular way to preserve this abundant fruit. Fruit butters are so named not because they contain dairy, which would have prevented them from being eaten with a meat meal according to the kosher laws, but because they are as thick and spreadable as butter. Before the nineteenth century, when sugar was still a luxury item for Jews in eastern Europe and Russia, fruit butters, known as fruit lekvar, were extremely popular because they could be made with very little sugar, relying instead on the fiber of the fruit for their texture. Jewish immigrants were responsible for popularizing plum lekvar in America.

This spread has a rich, winey taste that makes it delicious on bread or spooned into yogurt. Plum butter is also an excellent filling for hamantaschen, the classic Purim dessert. I like to make several jars of plum butter in late summer or early fall, when plums are in season, and save at least one to fill my hamantaschen come March.

MAKES FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

6 pounds (2.7 kg) Sterling, Stanley, or other European plums, pitted and roughly chopped

3/4 cup (175 ml) water

2 to 21/2 cups (400 to 500 g) sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Place the plums in a large stockpot with the water. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is softened and breaking down, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool slightly.

Run the fruit and juices through a food mill using the finest screen to create a smooth pulp, straining out the skins and any tough fibers. If you don’t have a food mill, purée the plums using an immersion blender and then strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the skins. Measure the plum pulp; you should have approximately 8 cups (1.8 kg).

Return the plum pulp to the stockpot and add 2 cups (400 g) of sugar. Stir to combine and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Once the liquid boils, reduce the heat to medium-low and let the mixture simmer until it is quite thick. This may take 21/2 to 4 hours. It may bubble quite a bit; use a splatter screen on the pot as necessary. As it thickens, stir more frequently to prevent scorching.

The butter is done when it is much thicker and will mound on a spoon without giving off juices. It will have a silky texture and be a deep purple color.

When the butter is close to done, prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Taste the plum butter; if it needs more sweetness, add up to 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar. Keep it on the heat for a few more minutes, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When it reaches the desired sweetness, remove it from the heat. Stir in the lemon juice.

Ladle the plum butter into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.*

*Because fruit butters contain less sugar than jams, they have a shorter shelf life.

◁ FRUITFUL FIG JAM

One of the first cultivated fruits, figs are as meaningful and symbolic as they are sweet and delicious. Jews consider figs to be particularly holy because they were one of the seven staple foods, known as the Seven Species, eaten by Jews in the land of Israel during Biblical times. Because they produce multiple crops every year, fig trees symbolize fruitfulness in Jewish literature. The medieval Jewish philosopher and scholar Maimonides considered figs, grapes, and almonds to be the best of fruits.

Native to the Middle East, figs are a common ingredient in Sephardic cooking in both fresh and dried form. As the largest crop of figs ripen in the fall, they are often served at Sephardic Rosh Hashanah celebrations. Every year, I feel a little giddy when I spy fresh figs in the grocery store because they are such a treat to preserve and their season in the United States is so brief. Because jam made from fresh figs is a classic Sephardic preserve, I have added some Sephardic flavors, orange and cinnamon, to this sunny, fresh-tasting spread. Try it as an accompaniment to cheese.

MAKES SIX 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

3 pounds (1.4 kg) whole figs, diced

1/2 cup (120 ml) water

31/2 cups (700 g) sugar

1/3 cup (80 ml) lemon juice

Zest of 1 orange

3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat six 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Place the figs in a wide, deep saucepan and cover with the water.

Add the sugar and lemon juice and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat down to medium and boil hard, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the jam thickens and fruit breaks down, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook the jam and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and stir in the orange zest and cinnamon. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance.

Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Figs

“The fig tree has put forth its green figs, and the vines with their tiny grapes have given forth their fragrance; arise, my beloved, my fair one, and come away.”

—Song of Songs 2:13

GREENGAGE PLUM JAM

Tiny greengage plums, called Reine Claude in French, are prized throughout Europe for their luscious honey-like flavor, firm texture, and floral aroma. With skins containing a good amount of pectin, greengage plums were typically used by Eastern European Jews to make jam. Because the greengage has such a delicate flavor, I keep this jam very simple with just sugar, lemon juice, and a hint of vanilla. Sadly, during the cooking process, the greengages lose their beautiful color and the final product is somewhat murky. It still tastes heavenly.

It can be difficult to find greengage plums. Almost no European growers export these delicate fruits to the United States. Some American farmers have begun to cultivate their own trees, so, depending on where you live, most notably New York or California, you may have luck at your local farmers’ market.

For most of us, however, the best bet for finding greengage plums is to look for those imported from New Zealand in late February and March. Although I seek out locally grown fruit whenever possible, greengages are so special that it is worth making an exception. Though greengages were a traditional Rosh Hashanah food for my European ancestors, for me, they may become a Purim treat.

MAKES FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

2 quarts greengage plums (about 3 pounds, or 1.4 kg), halved and pitted

3 cups (600 g) sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

1 vanilla bean, cut in half and split lengthwise

Place the plums, sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla bean in a large Dutch oven and allow to sit for 1 hour. The sugar will pull the juice from the plums and create a syrupy mixture.

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill. Bring the plum mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat down to medium and boil gently, adjusting the heat as necessary, until thickened and the jam reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, about 25 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the vanilla bean. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ ABRAHAM’S GREENGAGE CHUTNEY

Sephardic Jews call sour plums avramila or Abraham’s fruit because of the legend that Abraham sat under a plum tree—presumably to recover—after being circumcised. Among Greek Jews, Fish with Abraham’s Fruit, or fish with a spiced greengage plum sauce, is a traditional Rosh Hashanah dish. It is not unusual to see greengages used in savory dishes in other parts of the world as well: the English pair greengage chutney with oily fish, such as mackerel.

Because not many Americans care for mackerel, I suggest pairing this greengage chutney with cheese, anything from a nutty Gruyère to a creamy Brie.

MAKES 2 PINTS (950 ML)

6 cups (990 g) sliced and pitted greengage plums

11/2 cups (340 g) brown sugar

1 cup (235 ml) apple cider vinegar

3/4 cup (110 g) golden raisins

1/2 cup (80 g) diced yellow onion

2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon pickling salt

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 2 pint (475 ml) jars.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large, wide Dutch oven and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat down to medium and simmer the chutney until it is thick enough to mound up on a spoon, about 30 minutes. You may need to turn the heat down to medium-low or even low to keep the chutney at a simmer and prevent scorching.

Ladle the chutney into the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow to cure for 2 to 3 weeks before opening for the best results. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ CRANBERRY APPLESAUCE

Applesauce is one of the best-known and best-loved Jewish preserves because it is one of the two traditional toppings for potato pancakes or latkes. (The other being sour cream. The arguments over which topping is better can get rather heated.) Latkes are a Jewish deli staple, but are perhaps best known as the traditional dish for the festival of Hanukkah, at least among Ashkenazi Jews.

In Europe, Ashkenazi Jews often made a version of applesauce that included foraged berries, such as raspberries or blackberries. I have updated that tradition by adding cranberries, that quintessential North American berry, to my applesauce. The cranberries add tartness and a beautiful rosy color. Make this crimson-hued applesauce in October when whole cranberries and heirloom varieties of apples are readily available at farmers’ markets and put up several jars to accompany your Hanukkah latkes in December. You may even convert some sour cream partisans to your side.

MAKES 3 TO 4 PINTS (1.4 TO 1.9 L)

4 pounds (1.8 kg) apples, preferably a mixture of sweet and tart varieties

2 cups (200 g) whole cranberries (fresh or frozen)

1 cup (120 ml) water

1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice

11/4 cups (250 g) sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Peel, core, and roughly chop the apples. Combine the apples, cranberries, water, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, turn down the heat to low, and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 pint (475 ml) jars.

When the apples are tender, about 30 to 45 minutes depending on the varieties you use, remove from the heat. Mash the apples with a potato masher. For a smoother texture, purée with an immersion blender but leave some chunkiness. Add the sugar and spices and return the mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and distribute the spices.

Ladle the sauce into the clean, warm jars, leaving 3/4 inch (2 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well because the sauce is so thick and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

CHAROSET CONSERVE

One of the most important symbolic foods for Passover is charoset, a fruit mixture that is eaten twice during the Seder ritual. Charoset represents the mortar that the Jewish slaves used to build the Pharaoh’s pyramids. While charoset for Passover is common across all Jewish people, the form it takes—that is, what ingredients it is based on—truly reflects regional differences. Fresh fruit, dried fruit, honey, spices, wine, and nuts are all common charoset ingredients. However your charoset is made, it should be sweet and delicious.

For the Ashkenazi Jews, apples became the basis for traditional charoset recipes, along with honey, wine, cinnamon, and nuts, because they could be kept in cold storage from the fall until Passover, which takes place before most fruits have come into season. This conserve recipe is inspired by the flavors of traditional Ashkenazi charoset. I often make it in the fall when apples are in season, and I give it as a holiday gift. It is always very well received.

MAKES FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

8 cups (1 kg) peeled and chopped apples

1 cup (235 ml) grape juice or sweet wine such as Manischewitz

1/2 cup (120 ml) apple juice or cider

1 cup (340 g) honey

1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

Juice of 2 lemons

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 cup (60 g) chopped black walnuts, lightly toasted

2 tablespoons (28 ml) apple brandy or Calvados (optional)

Combine the apples, grape juice, and apple juice in a large, deep saucepan. Bring to a boil. Turn down the heat, cover, and simmer until the apples are tender, about 10 minutes.

While the apples are simmering, prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Mash the apples by hand using a potato masher to achieve a chunky consistency. Add the honey, sugar, and lemon juice to the apple mixture and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Continue to boil the mixture gently, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. The conserve will spit, so use caution.

Boil until the mixture reaches 220°F (104°C) and is thick enough to mound up on a spoon without liquid pooling around the edges, about 15 minutes. Remove the conserve from the heat and stir in the spices and walnuts. Add the apple brandy (if using).

Ladle the conserve into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

APPLE BUTTER

Apples were an important fruit for Ashkenazi Jews because they grew abundantly in northern and central Europe and Russia and could be kept in cold storage all winter. Apples appear in Ashkenazi holiday foods from Rosh Hashanah to Passover. But did you know that in Jewish tradition the apple was not the forbidden fruit that Eve ate in the Garden of Eden? Some scholars theorize that notorious fruit was, in fact, an apricot.

For apple butter, use a soft apple that will cook down fast, such as Braeburn, Cortland, Fuji, McIntosh, or Ida Red. You can even use a variety of apples for the best flavor. Straining the apples through a sieve or food mill is somewhat tedious but the result, a silky-smooth butter, is worth it.

MAKES SIX TO SEVEN 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

6 pounds (2.7 kg) apples, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped

2 cups (475 ml) apple cider

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

1/2 cup (115 g) brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Place the apples in a large stockpot or Dutch oven and add the apple cider. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Let simmer, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is breaking down, about 40 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat. Working in batches, push the apples and accumulated juices through a sieve into a large bowl, straining out any fibers or seed particles to create a smooth pulp. Alternatively, you can use a food mill set on the finest screen. Measure the apple pulp. You should have about 8 cups (2 L).

Return the apple mixture to the stockpot and add the sugars. Stir to combine and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the mixture simmer until it is reduced by about half and quite thick, about 11/2 to 2 hours. The apple butter will spit quite a bit; use a splatter screen on the pot as necessary.

Toward the end of the cooking, prepare a boiling water bath and heat seven 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. As the butter thickens, stir more frequently to prevent scorching. When the butter mounds on a spoon without giving off liquid, it is done. Remove from the heat, add the spices, and stir well to evenly disperse them.

Ladle the butter into the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.*

*Because fruit butters contain less sugar than jams, they have a shorter shelf life.

◁ APPLE MINT JELLY

Apple mint jelly, which most people think of as something to eat with lamb, may seem more British than anything else. But some scholars have speculated that combining lamb and mint is the legacy of the Passover tradition of eating lamb with bitter herbs. Both apples and mint are among the foods mentioned in the Talmud and were part of the diet of Jews since Biblical times. For the Ashkenazi Jews of Poland and Russia, fruits, such as apples, cherries, and plums, were more abundant than vegetables and sometimes were used as an accompaniment to meat.

As with all jellies, this recipe is a bit labor-intensive because you first have to strain the juice from the fruit and then make the jelly. The result, however, is a pale gold, translucent jelly with a sweet apple flavor and just a hint of mint. Apple mint jelly is a delightful accompaniment to roast lamb and also duck. Use it to glaze pastries or just enjoy it on toast. Because of its stunning color, this jelly makes an impressive gift.

MAKES FOUR TO FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

5 pounds (2.3 kg) apples, quartered

5 cups (1.2 L) water

1 cup (35 g) fresh mint leaves, tightly packed

3 to 4 cups (600 to 800 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

Begin by extracting the juice from the apples. To do this, place the apple quarters and water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and boil gently, with the pot partially covered, until the apples are tender enough to crush with a wooden spoon, about 20 to 30 minutes. Do not overcook because that will affect how the jelly sets.

Line a colander with several layers of damp cheesecloth and place it over a tall stockpot. Ladle the apple mixture into the colander and allow the juice to drain into the pot undisturbed for at least 2 hours. Do not press on the apples because that will result in a cloudy jelly.

After the apples have stopped draining, measure the juice. You could end up with anywhere from 4 to 6 cups (940 ml to 1.4 L) of juice depending on the variety of apples you used and how long you allowed the juice to drain. Make a note of the amount of juice because it will determine how much sugar to use. Pour the juice into a storage container. Discard the remaining apple pulp.

Crush the mint leaves gently with your fingers to release the oils and add to the apple juice. Cover this mixture and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 2 days.

To make the jelly, prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Pour the apple juice into a large deep saucepan, straining out the mint leaves. Press on the mint leaves to extract as much juice as possible. If you have 4 cups (950 ml) of apple juice, add 3 cups (600 g) of sugar; for 5 cups (1.2 L) of juice, add 31/2 cups sugar (700 g); and for 6 cups (1.4 L) of juice, add 4 cups (800 g) of sugar.

Combine the apple juice, sugar, and lemon juice in a large, deep saucepan. The jelly will bubble up substantially, so select a large pot. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium-high and boil the mixture hard, stirring frequently until it begins to gel, about 20 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jelly on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jelly with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jelly is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes. Skim off any foam that has accumulated.

Ladle the jelly into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Mint

There are many varieties of mint grown in home gardens. Each will offer a slightly different flavor to this jelly, allowing you to develop your own “signature” flavor. Avoid chocolate mint, which does not mix well with apple.

◁ APPLE, HONEY, AND ROSE WATER JAM

This special preserve combines traditional foods and flavors for Rosh Hashanah in both Ashkenazi and Sephardic cuisine. Apples being a fall crop are plentiful at Rosh Hashanah. Beginning Rosh Hashanah dinner by dipping apples into honey, to symbolize the hope for a sweet new year, is nearly universal among Eastern European Jews. The Sephardim often end their new year’s celebrations with sweet jams and preserves made from quince, figs, dates, and apples.

Rose water, which is made by distilling fresh rose petals in water, is featured in many Sephardic desserts and pastries. It can be purchased at Middle Eastern grocers and specialty food stores. Rose water has a very strong flavor and should be used sparingly or it can overwhelm your palate. Here, it adds a haunting floral note to this unusual, pale yellow jam.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

3 pounds (1.4 kg) apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice (approximately 6 to 7 cups [1 kg] prepped)

1/2 cup (120 ml) water

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

1 cup (340 g) honey

1 teaspoon rose water

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Place the apples, water, and lemon juice in a wide, deep saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir, and cover the pot. Lower the heat to medium and cook until the apples are soft, about 10 minutes, stirring once or twice to prevent sticking or burning. Mash the apples coarsely with a fork or potato masher.

Add the sugar and honey to the pot, stirring to dissolve. Return to a boil over medium-high heat.

Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and mounds up on a spoon, about 10 to 15 minutes. It will splatter, so use caution. Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove it and push the jam with your fingers. If it wrinkles, the jam is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the jam from the heat and stir in the rose water. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

DULCE DE MANZANA (APPLE PASTE)

Turkish Jews, whose origins trace back to the Jews’ expulsion from Spain in 1492, express their hopes for a sweet new year by partaking in dulce de manzana, a firm, sweet apple paste. In the Sephardic world, dulce de manzana is often infused with vanilla or with rose water. I flavor my version of dulce de manzana with spices that Americans associate with apples, such as cinnamon and nutmeg.

Cut into squares and tossed with sugar, these apple jellies are similar to pâté de fruit. They make an elegant sweet bite to serve after a meal. Children love them as a homemade version of packaged fruit snacks. You can also cut the paste into larger blocks and serve them with a cheese plate as one would with quince paste.

MAKES 100 SQUARES

3 pounds (1.4 kg) apples, a mix of hard and soft varieties such as Granny Smith and McIntosh

1 cup (235 ml) water

1 cup (200 g) sugar

1/4 cup (60 g) brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Juice of 1 lemon

Additional sugar, for coating the candies

Quarter the apples, cutting off the stem and blossom, but do not core or peel. The natural pectins in those parts will help the candies to set.

Combine the apples and water in a low, wide pan with a lid. Bring to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until very soft, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, and allow to cool slightly to make them easier to work with. Process the apples in batches using a food mill on the finest screen. Alternatively, press the apples through a sieve to catch all the skins, seeds, and cores.

Return the apple pulp to the pan, and add the remaining ingredients. Stir well to combine.

Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture becomes a thick paste. Use a splatter screen as necessary. The length of cooking time will vary depending on the natural moisture of your apples, but it will be at least an hour. A spoon drawn through the mixture should leave a clear channel that remains for a few seconds.

To test the doneness, chill a small amount on a plate in the freezer. It should appear and feel jellied. Lightly coat a 9 x 9-inch (23 x 23 cm) baking dish with cooking spray or another neutral oil. Do not use a smaller pan or the mixture will be too thick and may not set. If you must use a smaller pan, divide the mixture among two pans.

Spread evenly in the pan and set aside to allow it to set up, at least 8 hours or overnight. When set, invert the paste onto a lined baking sheet to expose the bottom of the paste. Allow this to dry for another 8 to 12 hours. The paste can be stored, wrapped in plastic, in the refrigerator and will keep for months.

MEMBRILLO (QUINCE PASTE FOR ROSH HASHANAH)

Quince’s high pectin content makes it amenable to being turned into pastes and gels. You may know quince paste as membrillo and associate it with Spanish cuisine, but it is a classic Sephardic sweet as well. Indeed, quince paste is a traditional Rosh Hashanah and Succot food.

The tradition of candied fruits and jellied candies developed early in Sephardic cuisine because sugar was readily accessible as early as the Middle Ages when it was cultivated in North Africa and spread throughout the region by the Arabs. Still, sugar remained too expensive for most Ashkenazi Jews to use in large quantities until the nineteenth century.

Serve quince paste with cheese. It pairs particularly well with hard cheeses, such as Manchego.

MAKES 16 SQUARES

21/2 pounds (1.2 kg) quince (approximately 5 pieces of fruit)

1/4 cup (60 ml) water or apple juice

3 cups (600 g) sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4).

Wash any fuzz off the exterior of the quince. Place the quince in a baking dish and cover with foil. Bake until it is quite soft, about 90 minutes to 2 hours. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Slip the skins off and cut the flesh from the core. Discard the skins and cores.

Place the quince flesh in the food processor with the water or apple juice and purée until smooth. Measure the remaining purée. You should have about 3 cups (700 ml). Pour the purée into a large, deep saucepan. Add an equal amount of sugar by volume. So for 3 cups of purée, add 3 cups (600 g) of sugar.

Add the lemon juice and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer the quince, uncovered, until it is so thick that the spoon leaves a clear track when you stir, about 20 to 25 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent scorching, especially as the paste thickens. The quince purée will spit; use caution.

Spray an 8 x 8-inch (20 x 20 cm) or 9 x 9-inch (23 x 23 cm) square baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and pour in the quince. Spread in an even layer. Place the pan in the refrigerator to chill for several hours. When the top is firm and no longer tacky, cut the quince paste into 16 squares. Wrap each square in parchment paper or plastic wrap and tie with baker’s twine for a charming presentation. Quince paste will keep in refrigerator for months.

◁ ROSY QUINCE JELLY

Quince is notoriously astringent and cannot be eaten raw. It becomes soft and palatable when baked or poached and sweetened with sugar or honey. Because of its high pectin content, quince was one of the first fruits used to make jam and jelly. Indeed, for centuries, quince was the most common kind of fruit preserve. The word marmalade, which today we associate with citrus fruit, actually derives from the Portuguese word for quince, marmelo.

Sephardis have multiple ways of cooking and preserving this cherished fruit. Making jelly from quince juice is a convenient way to cook with this somewhat difficult fruit because there is no need to peel or chop it. And with its rosy pink color and floral aroma, quince jelly is an exceptionally lovely preserve. Spread it on toast, spoon it into yogurt, or pair some with a cheese plate. Quince jelly also makes a stunning gift.

Once you have cooked with quince, you may find yourself as entranced as those in the Middle East who cherish this ancient crop. Use it in baked goods or for preserving or in meat stews as the Sephardim do.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

3 pounds (1.4 kg) quince (about six)

6 cups (1. 4 L) water

3 cups (600 g) sugar (approximately)

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

1 vanilla bean

6 whole cloves

Wash the quince well and cut into quarters, trimming off the blossom end. Use a sharp knife and be cautious when cutting because quince are very hard.

Add the quince to a large, deep saucepan and cover with water. Bring the mixture to a boil and then turn down the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 to 11/2 hours until the fruit is tender.

Line a fine-mesh sieve with a layer of damp cheesecloth and set it over a deep bowl. Carefully ladle the juice and fruit from the saucepan into the sieve. Allow the juice to drip for several hours or even overnight. Do not press on the fruit because that can make the jelly cloudy.

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Measure the juice. You should have 3 to 4 cups (700 to 950 ml). For each cup (235 ml) of juice, you want to use slightly less than 1 cup (200 g) of sugar. So for 3 cups (700 ml) of juice, use 21/2 cups (500 g) of sugar. For 4 cups (950 ml) of juice, use 3 cups (600 g) of sugar.

Combine the juice, sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla bean in a large, deep saucepan. Tie the cloves in a small spice bag and add them to the pot. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil until the mixture reaches 220°F (104°C), about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jelly on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jelly with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jelly is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes. The jelly in the pot may appear to be somewhat liquid even when it is done; it will gel more upon cooling. Remove from the heat and allow the boiling to subside. Discard the vanilla bean and cloves. Skim off any foam that has accumulated.

Ladle the jelly into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. If there is any foam on the top of the jars, skim that off as well. You want a translucent final product. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Finding Quince

Quince have been cultivated since ancient times, long before the ubiquitous apple. For this reason, some scholars believe that the quince, not the apple, is the proper translation for the Hebrew word tapuach, a fruit mentioned in the Biblical Song of Songs. The Talmud specifically mentions the quince as well, and it prescribes a blessing to be said for its distinctive aroma. That aroma makes quince a delight to cook with and eat.

Quince are in season in the Western Hemisphere in the fall. Look for quince at your farmers’ market in September or October. If you do not see them, ask the vendors. Some growers raise quince, but do not typically bring them to markets because of low demand. The vendor who brings me quince every fall charges me the same price for them as he does for apples, which is a very good deal. You can also find quince in better grocery stores in the fall, but they will likely be more expensive. I have also seen quince in the grocery store in early spring when they are imported from South America.

GOLDEN PUMPKIN BUTTER FOR ROSH HASHANAH

Sephardic Jews have a particular tradition of serving foods with symbolic meanings during Rosh Hashanah. These symbolic meanings often derive from puns on the name of the food. For example, the word for squash or pumpkin in Hebrew is qara, which sounds like the Hebrew verbs for ”to rip or tear up” and ”to read or call out.” Thus, it is traditional to eat pumpkins or squash at Rosh Hashanah. Before doing so, it is customary to recite a special prayer that any harsh decrees that may have been issued be ”torn up” and that the speaker’s merits be ”read out” before the Creator.

Pumpkin butter is a quick and easy project, and the result tastes like fall in a jar. Spread it on whole-wheat toast or spoon some into vanilla yogurt. You will notice that I do not include instructions for processing this butter in a boiling water bath. It is not safe to water-bath can pumpkin in any form because of the vegetable’s density. If 3 cups (700 ml) is too much for your family, you can freeze some. Or consider packaging the extra in a nice jar and bringing it as a gift to your hosts when you are invited to Rosh Hashanah dinner.

MAKES 3 CUPS (700 ML)

1 small pie pumpkin

1 to 2 cups (200 to 400 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

Pinch of white pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, or gas mark 6).

Remove the stem from the pumpkin, carefully cut it in half, and scrape out the seeds. Fit it into a baking dish, cut sides down, filled with 1/2 inch (1 cm) of water. Cover tightly with foil and bake until very soft, about 45 minutes.

When the pumpkin halves are cool enough to handle, scrape out the flesh and mash with a fork or for a smoother texture, purée in a food processor. Measure the mashed or puréed pumpkin.

Measure out half that amount of sugar. For example, if you have 21/2 cups (613 g) of pumpkin purée, use 11/4 cups (250 g) of sugar.

Place the sugar and pumpkin in a large, deep saucepan. Stir in the lemon juice. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a slow and careful boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. The mixture will bubble, so exercise caution and use a splatter screen if necessary. Let the mixture cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until thick and spreadable.

Remove from the heat, stir in the spices, and mix well to incorporate. Store in the refrigerator or freeze.

SUGAR PEARS IN VANILLA SYRUP

Pears are mentioned in the Talmud and have been cultivated by humans since antiquity. The ancient Romans grew dozens of varieties, which they ate both raw and cooked. Along with apple, plums, and cherries, pears were one of the fruits that grew abundantly in the forests of eastern Europe, Poland, and Russia. Pears were a common ingredient in fruit compote, which was a typical way to end a weekday meal. Whole poached pears were considered an elegant dessert suitable for a holiday meal, such as Passover Seder.

For these whole pears in vanilla syrup, I use diminutive Seckel pears that are so sweet they are called ”sugar pears.” They make for a beautiful presentation. For a light dessert, plate a few of these pears with a dollop of crème fraîche and a drizzle of the vanilla syrup.

MAKES 4 QUARTS (3.8 L)

31/2 cups (700 g) sugar

7 cups (1.6 L) water

5 pounds (2.3 kg) Seckel pears, slightly firm

1 lemon, halved

2 tablespoons (30 g) vanilla bean paste, or 2 whole vanilla beans, split and seeds scraped

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 quart (950 ml) jars.

In a large stockpot, combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

While the syrup is coming to a boil, prepare the pears. To prevent the pears from browning, fill a large bowl with cold water, squeeze the juice from the lemons into the bowl, and then add the lemon halves. Peel the pears, carefully carving out the blossom end and cut off the stem. Add each pear to the lemon water as you finish preparing it. Do not let the pears sit in the water for more than 20 minutes or they will get soggy.

When the sugar syrup comes to a boil, reduce the heat. Add the vanilla bean paste. If using whole beans, add the seeds and pods at this time. Stir well to combine and keep at very low heat as you finish preparing the pears.

Carefully add the peeled pears to the vanilla syrup, one layer at a time. Raise the heat to medium and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Gently press on the pears or rotate them to ensure that each one has been thoroughly bathed in syrup.

To fill the clean jars, turn one on its side and gently add one pear at a time. About five pears will fit in each jar. If using whole vanilla beans, add half a pod to each jar.

Ladle the syrup over the pears in the jars, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars, adding more syrup if necessary, and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 25 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

◁ GALICIAN PEAR BUTTER

The Jews of Galicia and southern Russia made a traditional tzimmes from apples, pears, figs, and dried plums known as floymn tzimes. Indeed, pears are often combined with apples in Ashkenazi cuisine whether in tzimmes, charoset, or preserves. I find, however, that apples overwhelm the delicate flavor of the pear. This smooth butter allows the pear to take center stage.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

5 pounds (2.3 kg) pears, Bartlett preferred, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped

1 cup (235 ml) water

1 cup (200 g) sugar

Juice of 1/2 of a lemon

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

Place the pears in a large stockpot and add the water. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. The boil may be hard to see because of the volume of fruit. Listen for the sound of large bubbles. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is very soft and breaking down, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool slightly.

Purée the fruit using an immersion blender or in batches in a food processor. Return the pear mixture to the stockpot and add the sugar. Stir to combine and bring it to a boil over high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the mixture simmer until it is reduced by half and is quite thick, about 2 hours. It may bubble quite a bit; use a splatter screen on the pot as necessary. As it thickens, stir more frequently to prevent scorching.

Toward the end of the cooking, prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

When the pear butter will mound on a spoon without giving off liquid, it is done. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice and ginger, and stir well to combine.

Ladle the pear butter into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months.*

*Because fruit butters contain less sugar than jams, they have a shorter shelf life.

◁ POMEGRANATE JELLY

Mentioned in both the Bible and the Song of Songs, pomegranates play a significant role in Jewish literature and folklore. For centuries, pomegranate symbols adorned coins, priestly garb, and even Torah scrolls. Legend has it that a pomegranate contains 613 seeds, the same number as the number of commandments in the Torah.

Pomegranates ripen in fall, so for Sephardic Jews, they were traditional fare for Rosh Hashanah and Succot. Indeed, for Sephardim, the new year meal typically ended with fresh dates, figs, and pomegranates. Sephardic cooks also crushed the pomegranate seeds for juice which they then cooked down into a syrup and used to add tartness to their dishes.

If you like pomegranates, you will love the concentrated, tart flavor of this jelly. Pomegranates are low in pectin, so this preserve is not as firm as apple or quince jelly. Indeed, it is more the texture of a very thick syrup than a firm jelly. Pour a little into your yogurt, add some to cocktails, or use it in cooking and baking as one would do with pomegranate molasses. Add some to a favorite salad dressing or drizzle on fruit or even vegetables such as the roasted carrots at left.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

4 cups (950 ml) pomegranate juice

3 cups (600 g) sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) lemon juice

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Combine the pomegranate juice, sugar, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Continue to boil until the mixture reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer. Cook until the mixture has thickened and reduced by a third, about 20 minutes of total cooking time. The liquid should be thicker and slower to drip than maple syrup.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jelly on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jelly with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jelly is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Ladle the jelly into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

SPICED PRUNE JAM

Dried plums, or prunes, were very important to Jews from the shtetls of Poland and Russia and thus appear often in traditional Ashkenazi cuisine. Plums grew abundantly on the outskirts of the villages in these countries, but the season for fresh plums was short. So women gathered the fruit not to eat fresh so much as to preserve for the winter in the form of plum butter or lekvar, dried prunes, and even fermented plum liquor.

Prunes appear in sweet Ashkenazi dishes, such as fruit compote and tzimmes, and they are found in savory ones, such as cholent. They have a reputation for being stodgy and eaten more for their dietary fiber than their taste. If you are a prune hater, or know one, this spiced prune jam will change your mind. Sure, it’s thick and sweet, but with a lot of zesty, spicy flavor. This is a fun preserving project for the winter months.

MAKES FOUR 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

8 ounces (225 g) pitted prunes, finely diced (about 11/2 cups [263 g] diced prunes)

3 ounces (85 g) dried cherries, finely diced (about 1/2 cup [80g]diced dried cherries)

1 large apple, peeled, cored, and grated

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

11/2 cups (355 ml) apple cider, apple juice, water, or a combination

Juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat four 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture boils, cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

After 20 minutes, check the jam. The dried fruit should be very soft, the apples cooked down, and the liquid reduced to a thick syrup. If not, continue to cook for a few additional minutes.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Using Dried Fruits

When making jam with dried fruit, chop the fruit into small dice (about 1/4-inch [6 mm] pieces) because it will plump considerably when reconstituted with the cooking liquid. To prevent the fruit from making your knife sticky, carefully wipe the blade with a few drops of oil.

HALEK (DATE JAM)

Dates are an ancient food that have become trendy again as a natural alternative to refined sugars. Because they could be dried or cooked down to a thick, long-lasting syrup, dates were one of the first preserved foods and thus important to the diet of Biblical people. In fact, many scholars believe that the word ”honey” in the phrase ”the land of milk and honey” refers not to honey made by bees, but rather date syrup. The date palm tree also plays a prominent role in Jewish folklore and history, especially in the celebration of the festival of Succot.

Unlike date syrup, which is very labor-intensive to make, this date jam comes together quite quickly and the flavor is bright and sunny. Dates are low in acid and therefore are not safe to can in a boiling water bath except in combination with higher-acid fruits or with other acidic ingredients, such as vinegar, in the case of date chutney. Thus, this is a refrigerator jam. It will last for several weeks. Try it as a filling for cakes and bar cookies or as sweetener in smoothies and baked goods. Or, use it as a basis for a Sephardic-style charoset (see below).

MAKES 2 PINTS (950 ML)

2 pounds (910 g) Medjool dates

1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups (495 ml) water

Zest of 1 orange

Pit and chop the dates. In a large saucepan, combine the dates, lemon juice, cinnamon, and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until thickened and the dates have broken down, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the orange zest.

You can leave the date jam as is or if you prefer a smoother texture, purée it using an immersion blender or food processor for 20 to 30 seconds. Ladle the jam into two clean and sterilized (shown here) pint (475 ml) jars. Store in the refrigerator.

How to Make Sephardic Date Charoset

Dates are the basis for many of the charoset recipes from the Sephardic world, which tend to be more like fruit pastes than the chunky apple-and-nut mixture familiar to American Jews of Ashkenazi descent. I remember being surprised, when attending my first Sephardic Seder during my year living in Paris with a family of Jews, that the charoset came in a tube and looked like the filling of a Fig Newton. Since that time, I have grown to like Sephardic charoset, which certainly looks more like mortar—and that is,

after all, what charoset is supposed to represent—than the Ashkenazi version. This may not be the charoset you are used to, but it is sweet, delicious, and well worth trying.

To make Sephardic-style date charoset, simply mix 1/2 cup (50 g) of chopped toasted almonds and 1/2 cup (60 g) of walnuts with 1 pint (475 ml) of date jam. If the mixture is too thick, you can thin it out by adding a splash of orange juice or sweet red kiddish wine. Refrigerate until needed.

◁ DRIED FIG, APPLE, AND RAISIN JAM

I developed this recipe for Tu B’Shevat, which typically falls in January or February when most fruits are out of season. Thus, this jam relies on dried fruits, including the traditional raisins and figs, along with a jolt of citrus, which happily is in season during the winter months. The final result is a sweet, bright-tasting spread with a chunky texture almost like a fruit compote. It’s perfect for stirring it into oatmeal, serving alongside a cake, or topping a bowl of ice cream.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

1/2 pound (225 g) dried figs, stems removed and finely diced (about 11/2 cups [225 g] dried figs)

2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced

1/2 cup (75 g) golden raisins

Zest and juice of 1 orange

Juice of 1 lemon

3/4 cup (175 ml) water

3/4 cup (150 g) sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot or Dutch oven and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the mixture boils, reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover, and cook for about 25 minutes to soften the dried figs, apples, and raisins, stirring occasionally.

Once the fruit is soft, uncover the pot, raise the heat to medium, and return the mixture to a boil. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid is reduced by about half and becoming syrupy, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

LEMON CURD FOR PASSOVER

Because of the prohibition on leavened foods, most Passover desserts are made without baking powder or baking soda. They rely instead on beaten egg whites for texture. That is why practically every Seder seems to end with a sponge cake! Meringue-based confections, which do not even need wheat, are also popular Passover desserts.

All those sponge cakes and meringues leave a lot of leftover egg yolks. I remember being aghast when a friend confessed to me that she simply threw away half a dozen egg yolks every year when making her favorite Passover sponge cake. That is why I think this lemon curd, made with all egg yolks for an especially rich and silky texture, is the perfect Passover treat. Spoon some into yogurt for a kosher-for-Passover breakfast that won’t leave you feeling deprived. Or serve it with that Passover sponge cake. But please, do not throw out leftover egg yolks ever again!

Note: Lemon curd may be frozen, but be sure to leave extra headspace at the top of the jars for expansion.

MAKES TWO 5-OUNCE (150 ML) JARS

2 lemons

6 egg yolks

1 cup (200 g) sugar

4 ounces (115 g) cold unsalted butter cut into small pieces

Zest and juice the lemons and set aside. You should have 1/2 cup (120 ml) of lemon juice.

Place the egg yolks and sugar in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Beat until light in color, about 2 minutes. Place the egg-and-sugar mixture over medium-low heat, and stir in the lemon juice and zest. Cook gently over medium-low to low heat, stirring constantly, until the curd is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Do not allow the curd to boil or the eggs will scramble.

Strain the curd though a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl to remove any pieces of cooked egg. Stir in the butter until melted.

Pour the lemon curd into clean and sterilized 5-ounce (150 ml) glass jars. Refrigerate until needed.

CANDIED CITRUS PEEL

Candied citron, or etrog, rind was a common Sephardic confection dating back to early modern times. Most of the candied citrus peel sold today is still made from citrons, but has a harsh taste and is laden with preservatives.

Better to make your own candied citrus peel using oranges and lemons, not citrons. Because most pesticide residue is found in fruits’ skin, I recommend seeking out organic fruit for this project. Although this recipe does take some time, it will leave you with a large amount of candied peel, perfect for gift-giving, dipping in chocolate, or using in baked goods.

MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS (ABOUT 250 G)

4 oranges, 6 lemons, or a combination, scrubbed if not organic

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar, divided, plus extra as needed

1 cup (235 ml) water

For each piece of fruit, carefully score the peel into 6 wedges. Using your fingers, gently remove the peels, keeping the wedges intact. Repeat until all of the fruit has been prepared.

Place the peels in a large saucepan and add several inches (18 cm) of cold water. Bring to a boil and let cook for 5 minutes. Repeat the boiling process using fresh water. After the second boiling, scrape away about half of the white pith from the peels. Boil once more in fresh, cold water for 5 minutes. Remove the peels to a strainer and rinse. When cool enough to handle, slice them lengthwise into 1/4 inch (6 mm) strips.

Meanwhile, prepare the syrup. Combine 1 cup (200 g) of sugar with the water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the strips of citrus peel and let boil for 5 to 7 minutes.

As the peels cook, place 2 cooling racks over 2 sheet pans (or newspaper) to catch drips. Remove the candied peel from the syrup with a slotted spoon and arrange on the cooling racks in a single layer. Let the peels dry for several hours until no longer tacky. Flip them over after about 2 hours to dry on the other side.

Finish the peels by rolling them in sugar. Spread 1/4 cup (50 g) of sugar into an even layer. Working with one piece at a time, roll the peel in the sugar until all sides are coated. Add more sugar to the plate as needed. (If the sugar starts to form clumps, the candied peels are too sticky. Discard this sugar and allow the peels to dry longer.)

Place the pieces on cooling racks and allow to thoroughly dry for 3 to 4 hours. The peels can be stored for weeks in a plastic bag or container. If the peels were not dry enough when sugared, the sugar will liquefy when stored. Repeat the drying and sugaring process, allowing more drying time.

Note: It is important to boil the peels several times to remove their bitterness and tenderize them. Do not skip this step.

◁ LEMON WALNUT EINGEMACHT

In the past, Ashkenazi Jews made a syrupy preserve known as an eingemacht out of their etrogs following Succot; some traditional communities still do so. This preserve was then served for the first time on Tu B’Shevat. It was traditionally eaten with a spoon while sipping hot tea.

Although this recipe is inspired by the eingemacht made from etrogs, I recommend using lemons instead. This lemon walnut eingemacht is similar to marmalade, sweet with a hint of bitterness. The addition of walnuts is typical for a Passover lemon eingemacht, but can be omitted if there is a nut allergy in your family. The final product is a pretty preserve, suitable for gifting.

MAKES FIVE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

11/2 pounds (680 g) small lemons, cut in half crosswise

4 cups (950 ml) water

4 cups (800 g) sugar (approximately)

3/4 cup (90 g) chopped walnuts

First day: Cut each lemon half into quarters. Remove the seeds and set them aside. Cut the quarters into thin slices and place them in a large, nonreactive Dutch oven. Cover with the water. Secure the seeds in cheesecloth. Add the seeds to the lemons for extra pectin. Allow the mixture to sit, covered, overnight.

Second day: Prepare a boiling water bath and heat five 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill. Bring the lemon mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the lemons have broken down and the liquid has reduced by a quarter, about 20 minutes.

Measure the volume of the lemon mixture and add an equal amount of sugar. If you have 5 cups (1 kg) of lemons, add 5 cups (1 kg) of sugar. Increase the heat to medium and stir to dissolve the sugar. Increase the heat to medium-high and stir frequently to prevent scorching. Boil the mixture, skimming off any foam, until it reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. (It may still look liquid, but do not overcook.) Remove the seeds.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and add the walnuts. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, distributing the walnuts evenly, and leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

What’s an Etrog?

An etrog, which is also known as a citron, is a large, fragrant yellow citrus fruit with a thick skin and little pulp. Shaking one while reciting a special prayer is part of the celebration of the harvest festival of Succot. Etrogs (or citrons) are notoriously bitter. To make them into a palatable preserve required long periods of soaking to soften the thick rind. It also required large quantities of sugar or honey.

In addition to the difficulty of cooking with them, many of the citrons available in the United States are grown for ceremonial rather than culinary purposes; the growers use a lot of pesticides because the outward appearance is prized above all. That is why I do not recommend cooking with them. Perhaps a better use for your etrog following Succot is to stuff it with cloves and enjoy the fragrance.

◁ JAFFA ORANGE JAM

Oranges appear frequently in Sephardic desserts ranging from baked goods to custards and even in some Sephardic versions of charoset. Sephardic cooks also preserve with oranges frequently, making jams, marmalades, and candies or dulces. Today, oranges, particularly the famous Jaffa orange, are an important export for the state of Israel.

While orange marmalade is more common, I prefer orange jam because it is less bitter and does not contain large pieces of peel. This is a simple and sunny jam that is best made in the dead of winter when citrus season is at its peak. Experiment with different varieties beyond the ubiquitous navel, from Cara Caras to blood oranges. While supreming the oranges is tedious, do not be tempted to skip this step. The membranes will make your jam unpleasantly bitter.

MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

10 to 12 large oranges

21/2 cups (500 g) sugar

1/2 cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat three 8-ounce (235 ml) jars. Place a saucer in the freezer to chill.

Supreme the oranges. Carefully cut off the top and bottoms of the oranges. Use a small knife to cut off the peel and white pith from the sides. Then, working over a bowl to catch the juice, cut each orange segment away from the membrane in sections, and drop into the bowl. Continue until you have 5 cups (925 g) of orange flesh and juice.

Place the oranges in a large pot. The jam will bubble considerably as it cooks, so be sure to use a deep pot. Add the sugar and lemon juice. Stir well and set aside for 10 to 15 minutes so the sugar can dissolve. Bring the pot to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Once it boils, reduce the heat to medium and continue to boil until the mixture has become much thicker, reduced by half or more, and reaches 220°F (104°C) on a candy thermometer, about 25 minutes.

Remove the saucer from the freezer and place a dollop of jam on it. Return it to the freezer for 1 minute. Remove the saucer and push the dollop of jam with your finger. If it wrinkles, then the jam is set. If not, continue to cook and try the test again after a few minutes.

Add the cinnamon and stir to combine. Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Note: The peels from the oranges may be used for making candied citrus peel. To do so, remove the peels according to the instructions shown here. Place the peels in a container of cold water and refrigerate until ready to use. The peels will keep for several days.

◁ ORANGES IN SYRUP

Once they left the land of Israel, Jews throughout the Mediterranean began cultivating citrus fruits for religious reasons. Shaking an Etrog, which is a large citron, and a lulav, branches of three trees that have been woven together, is an essential part of the fall harvest festival, Succot. When Jews arrived in areas without citron trees, they set about growing their own.

The cultivation of other forms of citrus, particularly oranges for which citron trees were used as grafting stock, was a by-product of this religious custom. And indeed, hubs of citrus production today in Spain, Italy, North Africa, and the Middle East correspond with early Jewish settlements in those areas. Once Jews migrated to colder climes, where it was not possible to grow citrus, they began establishing citrus import businesses, again at first to meet their religious needs, but later for economic reasons. Thus began the long association of Jews and the citrus trade in the minds of western Europeans.

These orange segments in syrup are delicious eaten straight out of the jar as a light end to a heavy meal. They also make a lovely dessert topping. Try them with the Egyptian Semolina Cake. Because they are not overly sweet, you could even add them to a spinach salad alongside candied nuts.

MAKES 4 PINTS (1.9 L)

6 pounds (2.7 kg) oranges

21/2 cups (570 ml) water

1 cup (200 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (28 ml) lemon juice

4 cinnamon sticks

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 pint (475 ml) jars.

Supreme the oranges. Carefully cut off the tops and bottoms. Use a small knife to cut off the peel and white pith from the sides. Then, working over a large bowl to catch the juice, cut each orange segment away from the inner membranes and drop into the bowl. Once all the segments have been separated, squeeze the membranes over the bowl so that all the juice may be used. (Supreming is tedious, but necessary, as both the pith and the membranes will cause preserves to have an unpleasant bitter flavor over time.)

Remove all the orange segments with a slotted spoon and place in another bowl so that only the reserved orange juice remains. Strain the juice through a fine-mesh sieve into a measuring cup; there should be about 1/2 cup (120 ml).

To prepare the syrup, combine the water, reserved orange juice, and sugar in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon juice and stir. When the syrup is hot, reduce the heat to low and slowly pour in the oranges. Stir gently to coat them in the syrup and allow to cook until hot, about 5 minutes. Too much stirring will cause the orange segments to break apart, so use care.

Place a cinnamon stick in each jar and then add the orange segments. Ladle the syrup over the oranges, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars, adding more syrup if necessary, and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Variation: Oranges in Vanilla Syrup
Omit the cinnamon sticks. When preparing the syrup, split and scrape two vanilla beans, adding the seeds and pods to the pot. When filling the jars, place half a vanilla pod in each jar.

◁ BEET EINGEMACHT

Beet eingemacht originated as an Ashkenazi Passover confection. The only produce available in the cold climes of eastern and northern Europe at that time of year were the root vegetables that had been wintered over. With their natural sweetness, beets were the best candidate for being turned into a preserve to be eaten or given as gifts during that special time of year. (It's better than turnips at least.) Among the Ashkenazi Jews who emigrated to America, the tradition of making beet eingemacht for Passover persisted until the middle of the twentieth century when more commercially prepared Passover foods became available.

I know that beet jam sounds like a bad joke, but a very similar preserve called beet marmalade has become quite a trendy thing to serve with cheese. You can even find commercially made versions. So do not dismiss this funny-sounding jam out of hand. The earthiness of the beets is tempered by the sugar and lemon juice, and the ginger adds a bit of zing. It is especially lovely paired with something tangy such as goat cheese or yogurt.

Beets are a low-acid food, and it is critical to add bottled lemon juice and citric acid to this jam to make it safe for water-bath canning. You can find citric acid intended for use in canning online or at health food stores.

MAKES TWO 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS

11/2 pounds (680 g) beets, washed and trimmed

11/2 cups (300 g) sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) bottled lemon juice

1 tablespoon (8 g) grated or (6 g) minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon citric acid

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5). Wrap the beets in aluminum foil and roast until fork-tender, about 1 hour.

Prepare a boiling water bath and heat two 8-ounce (235 ml) jars.

Place the roasted beets in a food processor and chop finely but do not purée.

Place the beets, sugar, lemon juice, and ginger in a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium and boil gently until thickened, about 10 minutes.

Ladle the jam into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Beets

Although humans have cultivated beets since ancient times, they did so originally for the greens. The root, which was longer and more fibrous than the version we know today, was primarily used for medicinal purposes. It was not until the early modern period that farmers began to grow the beet root for food as well as the greens.

Perhaps not surprisingly, the people of northeastern Europe, Jews among them, were the first to embrace the beet root as a dietary staple because it grew well even in cold weather and lasted for months in cold storage. The Ashkenazi culinary traditions use beets in a variety of salads, spreads, and soups, the most famous of which is borsht. The Sephardim add beets to their pickled vegetables to give them a distinctive pink color.