CHAPTER 3
USE YOUR PRESERVES: RECIPES TO SHOWCASE YOUR HOMEMADE JAM AND PICKLES
So often home food preservation enthusiasts find their basements and pantries overflowing with jars of homemade jam and pickles. I certainly have. We love the process of preserving, but sometimes run out of ways to use what we have made. That is a shame because preserved vegetables do more than sit next to a sandwich. And jam is useful for more than just spreading on toast! (However, if you want to spread jam on toast, I have a wonderful Challah recipe that makes some of the best toast you will ever eat.)
This section of the book is designed to help you use your preserves with recipes for meals and desserts all of which incorporate a preserve from one of the first two sections of the book. Some of these recipes use jam as a topping; some use a vegetable preserve as the basis for a sauce; still others use fruit spreads as a filling for a baked good or dessert. Several are for traditional Jewish holiday foods such as Latkes (shown here), Hamantaschen, or Sufganiyot. With these recipes, your homemade preserves will soon find a place of honor at your table—be it dinner, brunch, or a special holiday celebration. No more overflowing pantries!
SWEET POTATO LATKES FOR HANUKKAH
Latkes, or vegetable pancakes, are the iconic Ashkenazi Hanukkah food. Most people think of latkes as potato pancakes, but you can truly make them with a variety of vegetables from carrots to zucchini. Indeed, potatoes did not really catch on as a staple food in eastern Europe until the mid-nineteenth century. The original Hanukkah pancakes were made with cheese, turnips, or other vegetables.
Personally, I like to make sweet potato latkes, so I can pretend that this fried food is somewhat healthy. But really sweet potato latkes have more taste than the regular kind, especially when seasoned with warm spices such as cinnamon, ginger, and allspice. You will need some flour to bind them together because sweet potatoes are not as starchy as white potatoes. These latkes pair exceptionally well with Cranberry Applesauce. For another way to eat latkes, combine 1 cup (230 g) of plain Greek yogurt with 2 tablespoons (30 g) of Tunisian Harissa and use that harissa yogurt as a savory latke topping.
MAKES 16 LATKES 
11/4 pounds (570 g) sweet potatoes, peeled
1/2 cup (63 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
6 tablespoons (90 ml) vegetable or other neutral oil
Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C, or gas mark 1/2) and line a baking sheet with foil.
Grate the sweet potatoes on the coarse side of a box grater and place the shreds in a large bowl.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and spices until combined. Add the flour mixture and the beaten egg to the sweet potatoes and toss with a fork to combine.
Heat the oil over high heat in a large nonstick skillet. When the oil is sizzling, turn the heat down to medium-high. Scoop 1/4 cup (55 g) of the sweet potato mixture into the skillet and flatten with a spatula. You can cook 3 to 4 latkes at a time, but do not overcrowd the skillet.
Flip the latkes when the underside is browned, about 2 minutes. Cook the second side for 11/2 to 2 minutes until browned. Repeat with the remaining batter. Cooked latkes can be kept warm in the oven until needed. Serve warm with Cranberry Applesauce or harissa yogurt.
MATZO BREI ROLL-UPS
Matzo brei, perhaps the ultimate Jewish-American comfort food, is a relatively recent invention made possible by the advent of mass-produced, square matzo. To make it, either whole boards of matzo or broken pieces are doused with hot water until softened, mixed with egg, and fried in a pan. Matzo brei is often served for breakfast, or even dinner, during the week of Passover.
Matzo brei can be sweet or savory. Savory versions often include smoked salmon, cheese, or vegetables. Sweet versions are typically served with jam. Debates rage about what is the right way to make matzo brei, and the version I describe below, with whole boards of matzo cooked in a pan like French toast, is undoubtedly going to cause some readers to exclaim: ”That’s not matzo brei!”
Whatever you want to call it, this recipe, which came to me from Danielle Sandler, the administrator at my temple, is a delicious way to showcase your homemade jam. It makes a very sweet and special Passover breakfast.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
2 eggs
1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk
1 tablespoon (6 g) orange zest
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of salt
4 tablespoons (55 g) butter, divided
4 matzo boards (not egg matzo)
8 ounces (225 g) jam
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Bring 3 cups (700 ml) of water to a boil and gather 2 baking dishes that are wide enough to hold a whole matzo board.
Whisk together the eggs, milk, orange zest, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt in the first baking dish.
Melt 1 tablespoon (14 g) of butter in a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium heat. Pour the boiling water into the second baking dish.
Add one matzo board to the dish with the water and soak for 1 minute. Remove and add to the dish with the egg mixture. Turn to coat the matzo.
Add the matzo coated with the egg mixture to the skillet. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook for an additional 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the second matzo board in the hot water and soak it for 1 minute. Remove to the egg mixture. When the matzo in the skillet is browned on both sides, remove it to a plate. Spread with 2 to 3 teaspoons (13 to 20 g) of jam. Carefully roll the matzo up into a spiral and dust with powdered sugar.
Repeat with the remaining boards of matzo, adding additional butter to the skillet before cooking each board. Serve warm.
Note: Vanilla extract is not kosher for Passover. During the holiday, use the inside of a vanilla bean instead.
◁ SHAKSHUKA
Shakshuka, a North African dish of eggs poached in spicy tomato sauce, is a favorite homey breakfast or midnight snack among Israelis. I, however, like to make shakshuka for a quick dinner on those nights when there seems to be no food in the house. As long as I have a jar of Matbucha, a can of tomatoes in my pantry, and eggs in my refrigerator, I can have a homemade dinner on the table in less than thirty minutes. Because of the vinegar in the Matbucha, this sauce is quite sharp, so I like to soften it with a small amount of sugar.
With some crusty bread or pita on the side to soak up the sauce, shakshuka is a satisfying meatless meal. Of course, without the bread, shakshuka is a perfect kosher-for-Passover meal, and rarely a Passover goes by without me making shakshuka at least once.
SERVES 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
1 pint (475 ml) Matbucha
1 can (28 ounces, or 785 g) whole tomatoes
2 teaspoons sugar
5 eggs
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped parsley (optional)
Combine the Matbucha and the tomatoes in a large, deep skillet or sauté pan. Stir to combine and use a wooden spoon or your hands to crush the canned tomatoes. Add the sugar.
Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes. Make a well in the sauce with your spoon and crack an egg into it. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Cover and simmer 7 to 10 minutes until the egg whites are cooked but the yolks are still runny.
Remove the lid and simmer a few additional minutes, if needed. Season with salt and pepper.
Garnish with the parsley (if using) and serve.
GREAT-GRANDMA BESSIE’S CHEESE BLINTZES
Cheese blintzes are a traditional Ashkenazi dairy food for the festival of Shavuot. One rather poetic explanation for this tradition is that two blintzes laid side-by-side resemble the two tablets Moses received on Mount Sinai. Blintzes are an outstanding vehicle for homemade jam.
Jewish grandmothers will have you believe that blintzes are an enormous production to make. But it is just not true. Blintzes are only a production if you insist on making them by the hundreds, which, in their defense, grandmothers used to do. But contemporary cooks can simply make enough for dinner. And, in the era of nonstick crepe pans, they are not even particularly difficult. Blintz wrappers are sturdier than a typical crepe and are only cooked on one side.
I offer two options for filling. The ricotta filling is not traditional, but its smooth texture and sweet, mild taste is pleasing to all palates. The traditional filling, farmers’ cheese, is fresh and soft with small curds. (Pot cheese, which is cottage cheese with some of the whey pressed out, is even more traditional, but can be hard to find.) You want a soft version, not a dry or crumbly one. Find farmers’ cheese in better grocery stores; otherwise, quark (a fresh, drained German cow's milk cheese) or drained small-curd cottage cheese is a suitable substitute.
MAKES 8 BLINTZES
CREPES
1 cup (235 ml) whole milk
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (26 g) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
SWEET RICOTTA FILLING
15 ounces (425 g) whole milk ricotta
1 tablespoon (13 g) sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
Pinch of salt
FARMERS’ CHEESE FILLING
16 ounces (455 g) farmers’ cheese
1/4 cup (60 g) sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
1 egg yolk
Pinch of nutmeg
Salt and white pepper, to taste
Butter, for cooking
Jam or sour cream, for serving
Sliced fresh fruit, for serving
To make the batter, whisk together the milk, eggs, and vanilla in a large bowl. Add the flour, sugar, and salt and whisk until combined and no longer lumpy. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
To make the crepes, heat an 8-inch (20 cm) or 10-inch (26 cm) nonstick crepe pan over high heat. While the pan is heating, prepare 4 clean dishtowels or 4 squares of parchment paper to hold the cooked crepes.
Stir the batter to recombine. Once the pan is hot, reduce the heat to medium. Add 1⁄3 cup (80 ml) of batter and immediately tilt the pan to swirl the batter to the edges. It should thinly coat the bottom of the pan. Cook undisturbed for 40 seconds to 1 minute until the edges are lightly browned and release easily from the pan and the center is dry.
Using your fingers or a thin, flexible spatula, loosen an edge and carefully remove the crepe to the dishtowel or parchment paper. (Do not use tongs, which may puncture or tear the delicate crepe.) If the bottoms of the crepes are browning before the center is dry, flip them over and briefly cook the underside and then add slightly less batter to the pan next time.
Repeat with the remaining batter. Layer the finished crepes between dishtowels or parchment paper. (Crepes may be prepared up to a day ahead and refrigerated.)
To make either filling, mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl.
To fill the blintzes, place one crepe, cooked side down, on a clean dishtowel or board and spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons (28 to 45 g) of filling just below the center of the crepe, leaving a border on the bottom and each side. Fold the bottom layer over the filling, then fold in each side, enclosing the filling completely, and roll up. Place the filled blintzes seam-side down in a baking dish. (These can be refrigerated at this point for up to 1 day.)
To cook the blintzes, melt 2 tablespoons (28 g) of butter in a 12-inch (30 cm) nonstick skillet. Place 4 blintzes in the skillet and cook over medium heat until lightly browned. Flip and brown the other side. Repeat with the remaining blintzes, adding more butter to the skillet as necessary. Serve topped with jam, sour cream, and sliced fresh fruit.
Note: Filled, uncooked blintzes can be frozen for up to 3 months. To freeze, spread the blintzes on a baking sheet; once hardened, they can be packed into gallon (3.8 L) freezer bags for storage.
CHALLAH
Challah is a rich, eggy bread that Jewish families serve on Shabbat and holidays. For Ashkenazi Jews in eastern Europe and Russia, everyday bread was black bread, made with coarse rye flour, but even the poorest families used pricey white flour to make their challah for Shabbat. The traditional shape for challah is an oval, braided loaf, but on Rosh Hashanah, it is customary to make a round challah to symbolize the never-ending cycle of years and seasons.
This slightly sweet, golden challah is a worthy vessel for any of the jam recipes in this book. Because of the presence of eggs and oil, challah will last for several days without going stale. Any leftover bread can be used to make outstanding French toast or bread pudding.
MAKES 1 LOAF
4 cups (548 g) bread flour
21/4 teaspoons (9 g) instant yeast
1 cup (235 ml) water, approximately 110°F (43°C)
3 eggs, at room temperature, divided
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
3 tablespoons (39 g) sugar
2 tablespoons (40 g) honey
1 teaspoon salt
Poppy or sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, yeast, and water. Stir to combine. Add 2 eggs, the oil, sugar, honey, and salt. Mix until a smooth dough forms, about 5 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a well-floured board and knead by hand for 5 minutes, adding more flour to prevent sticking. The dough should be smooth and elastic. It may be slightly tacky to the touch.
Place the dough in a bowl that has been oiled. Cover with a clean cloth and allow it to rise in a warm place for 2 hours or until doubled in size. Punch down the dough and divide it into 3 equal parts. (I use my kitchen scale to ensure my pieces are of equal size.)
Roll each piece into a thin strand about 2 feet (60 cm) long. Pinch the 3 strands together at the top and then braid until you reach the end of each strand. Take the ends, pinch them closed, and tuck them under the loaf.
Carefully transfer the braided loaf to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Cover the loaf with a clean cloth and allow to proof for 30 minutes to 1 hour until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4).
Beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of water in a small bowl. Brush the egg wash on the challah, making sure to get in the crevices of the braids. If desired, sprinkle sesame or poppy seeds over the top. Bake 35 to 40 minutes until golden brown. Allow to cool on a wire rack before cutting.
◁ CHOCOLATE BABKA WITH JAM
Babka was a relatively obscure Jewish bakery treat until a 1994 episode of Seinfeld catapulted this sweet, yeasty bread swirled with chocolate, or less famously cinnamon, to wider fame. It has become so trendy in recent years that, in 2016, Bon Appétit declared babka ”the new bagel”: that is, the next Jewish food ready for mainstream success.
Babka, which means ”grandmother” in Polish, originated in modern-day Poland and Ukraine. At first, women used their challah dough to make babka, and these early versions were filled with cinnamon, jam, and raisins rather than chocolate. This version combines chocolate and jam as a way to showcase your homemade preserves. Any fruit flavor that goes well with chocolate would work here, including apricot, orange, berry, and cherry. I recommend a smooth, rather than chunky, jam. Double-down on the flavor by enhancing the finishing syrup with a splash of liqueur or extract in the same flavor, such as Grand Marnier for orange or kirsch for cherry.
This recipe makes two loaves. If that is more than you need, wrap the second loaf well and freeze it as soon as it cools to enjoy another day.
MAKES 2 LOAVES
DOUGH
4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1 packet (1/4 ounce, or 7 g) fast-rising yeast
3/4 teaspoon salt
Grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup (235 ml) whole milk heated to 120°F (49°C)
3 eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
10 tablespoons (140 g) unsalted butter, softened
FILLING
Two 8-ounce (225 g) jars of the same jam or two different jams
2 ounces (55 g) butter, divided in half
1 cup (130 g) grated chocolate, divided in half
SYRUP
1/3 cup (80 ml) water
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1/2 to 1 teaspoon flavoring, such as orange blossom water, rose water, vanilla, or fruit-flavored liqueur (optional)
Place the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and zest in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the milk and mix until the mixture forms a shaggy dough. Add the eggs one at a time, followed by the vanilla, scraping down the sides as necessary.
With the motor running, add the butter 1 tablespoon (14 g) at a time until it is fully incorporated.
Switch to the dough hook and knead the dough, periodically scraping down the bowl and turning up the dough at the bottom of the bowl. Occasionally dust the bowl with flour to prevent sticking. (The dough will never clear the sides of the bowl the way a stiff bread dough would.) Knead until the dough is smooth and shiny, about 10 minutes.
Place the dough in a well-oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes to 1 hour. Alternatively, allow the dough to rise for at least 6 hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator. Divide it in half. Wrap the half that you are not using in plastic and refrigerate until needed.
In a small saucepan, combine 8 ounces (225 g) of jam and 1 ounce (28 g) of butter and heat over low heat until the butter is melted. Stir to combine. Set aside.
Place the dough half on a lightly floured board and roll out to a rectangle of approximately 15 x 11 inches (38 x 28 cm). Leaving a 1 inch (2.5 cm) border on all sides, use an offset spatula to spread the jam and butter mixture over the dough. Top with 1/2 cup (65 g) of grated chocolate and spread with a spatula to mix the chocolate and jam. Allow the residual heat of the jam to melt the chocolate slightly.
Starting with the long end, roll the dough into a tight jellyroll and pinch the ends closed. Trim off the ends. Carefully transfer the roll to a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and chill for at least 20 minutes.
Using a serrated knife, cut the roll down the middle lengthwise, exposing the filling. Turn the two halves on their backs so that the cut side is facing up. Pinch the two ends together and lift the right half over the left half. Then lift the left half over the right half. Repeat to form a twist.
Grease and flour two 9 x 5 inch (23 x 13 cm) loaf pans and line with parchment paper. Carefully transfer the twisted dough to a greased loaf pan. Repeat the entire process with the second half of the dough. Cover the loaves with a clean tea towel and allow to proof in a warm place until increased in size by 10 to 20 percent, about 40 minutes to 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Bake the loaves for 45 to 55 minutes until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. If the top begins to brown excessively, cover with foil.
While the loaves are baking, make the syrup. Combine the water, sugar, and any additional flavorings, if using, in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
Cool the loaves in pans on a wire rack. While the loaves are still warm, brush the syrup over the tops and sides. If syrup begins to pool on top, wait 5 minutes for it to absorb and then add the remaining syrup. Allow the loaves to cool completely before removing from the pans.
AMERICAN-STYLE CREAM CHEESE RUGELACH
Rugelach are a traditional Ashkenazi cookie that continue to be popular today. These flaky, delicate cookies are the perfect vehicle to showcase homemade jams and fruit butters. Traditional fillings were fruit preserves, especially apricot and raspberry, raisins, walnuts, cinnamon, chocolate, marzipan, and poppy seeds. But endless combinations of jam and fillings are possible. Some of my favorites include Peach Butter or Apple Butter with golden raisins and nuts; Fruitful Fig Jam with chocolate chips; Plum Lekvar with dried cranberries; and Sour Cherry and Almond Conserve with dried cherries, cranberries, or chocolate. If you have nut allergies in your family, as I do, green pumpkin seeds, known as pepitas, make a terrific substitute for nuts and are even somewhat fitting: Sephardic Jews often snacked on pepitas, along with nuts and dried fruits, after Shabbat dinner.
Crescent shapes are the most traditional type of rugelach, but the cookies can also be made by rolling the dough into a log and slicing into rounds, which saves time when making large batches. Indeed, this recipe can easily be doubled if baking for a large crowd. I give you instructions for both shapes below.
MAKES 2 DOZEN COOKIES
DOUGH
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
Zest of 1/2 of an orange
4 ounces (115 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into cubes
4 ounces (115 g) cold cream cheese, cut into cubes
FILLING
1/2 cup (weight will vary) jam or fruit butter
1/4 cup (weight will vary) dried fruit, such as raisins or cranberries, or mini chocolate chips
1/4 cup (weight will vary) nuts or pepitas (green pumpkin seeds), finely chopped
2 tablespoons (26 g) cinnamon sugar (To make cinnamon sugar, combine 1/2 cup [100 g] of sugar with 3/4 teaspoon of cinnamon.)
TOPPING
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoon (13 g) cinnamon sugar
Place the flour, salt, cinnamon, and orange zest in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times to combine. Add the butter and cream cheese and pulse several times until well broken up. Process the dough in short intervals, stopping to scrape down the sides as necessary, until large clumps of dough form. Do not let the dough form a ball.
Turn the dough out onto a cutting board and gently knead it into a ball. Divide the dough in two equal pieces, flatten to about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick, and wrap each portion in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 2 days. (The dough may be made ahead and frozen; let it thaw in the refrigerator before baking.)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4) and line two sheet pans with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. If using parchment paper, grease it lightly.
Work with only one portion of dough at a time, as it will soften quickly and become difficult to shape. Take the dough out of the refrigerator and let it sit for 5 minutes. This makes for easier rolling and reduces cracking.
TRADITIONAL CRESCENT COOKIES:
On a well-floured surface, roll out the dough until it is 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) thick and about a 12 inch (30 cm) circle. If the edges of your circle are ragged, trim them with a knife until smooth.
Leaving a slight plain edge, spread 1/4 cup (weight will vary) of jam over the dough. Evenly sprinkle 2 tablespoons (weight will vary) of dried fruit or chocolate chips over top of the jam, followed by 2 tablespoons (weight will vary) of the nuts or pepitas, avoiding the center of the circle. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon (13 g) of the cinnamon sugar over the entire dough portion.
Cut the dough into 12 wedges for rolling into crescents. As if cutting a pie or pizza, cut the dough round into sixths and then halve each portion until you have 12 pieces.
Starting at the outside edge, carefully roll up each wedge into a crescent and place on the parchment-lined pan, with the end point on the bottom side. Do not panic if some of the filling seems to be coming out the edges; this happens and will bake with no problems.
Chill the formed cookies for 15 to 20 minutes before baking. Repeat the process with second disk of dough. When ready to bake, lightly brush the tops with the egg wash and sprinkle them with cinnamon sugar.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then remove to a cooling rack.
SLICED COOKIES:
On a well-floured surface, roll out the dough into a rectangle 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) thick and about 8 x 12 inches (20 x 30 cm). If the edges of your rectangle are ragged, trim them with a knife until smooth.
Leaving a slight plain edge on one long side, spread 1/4 cup (weight will vary) of jam over the dough. Evenly sprinkle 2 tablespoons (weight will vary) of dried fruit or chocolate chips on top of the jam, followed by 2 tablespoons (weight will vary) of the nuts or pepitas. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon (13 g) of the cinnamon sugar over the entire dough portion.
Roll up the dough into a log. Starting at the long plain edge, carefully roll up the dough tightly and pinch the seam closed. Place on the parchment-lined pan, with the seam on the bottom side. Refrigerate the entire pan while you repeat the process with the other half of the dough. After forming the second log, place it on the same pan, and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove from the refrigerator, lightly brush the tops of the logs with egg wash, and sprinkle them with 2 teaspoons cinnamon sugar. With a serrated knife, cut into the dough at 1 inch (2.5 cm) intervals to form individual cookies, but do not cut all the way through.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until golden. Let cool in the pan for about 30 minutes and then slice the log all the way through to form individual cookies.
Note: If using a jam with large fruit chunks, such as fig or cherry, you may want to quickly purée it in a food processor for more even spreading or simply make sure the fruit pieces are evenly dispersed on the surface of the dough.
HAMANTASCHEN
The traditional Purim treat is a triangular cookie known as hamentaschen. Hamantaschen have a bad reputation. All Jewish kids have been scarred by eating dry, tasteless hamantaschen filled with unpleasant prunes or not-very-sweet poppy seeds. By contrast, this recipe makes a buttery, crumbly but not dry cookie with a hint of lemon. It is filled with sweet, delicious homemade jam. Many of the jams in this book would work; I recommend an apricot jam (shown here), Plum Butter, Greengage Plum Jam, or, my favorite, Polish Strawberry Rhubarb Jam.
MAKES 2 DOZEN COOKIES
3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (200 g) sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons (140 g) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
3 eggs and 2 egg yolks, divided
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Zest of 1 lemon
8 ounces (225 g) jam or preserves
1 teaspoon whole milk
Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Add the butter and process for a few seconds until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
In a separate bowl, whisk together 2 of the eggs, the egg yolks, vanilla, and lemon zest. Add the egg mixture to the food processor and process for 30 seconds. It will still be somewhat dry and crumbly.
Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, gather into a ball, and knead until it comes together. Divide it in half and form into two discs. Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
To make the cookies, remove one of the discs from the refrigerator and let the dough warm up slightly to make it easier to roll out.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Line 2 baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.
Roll out the dough on a well-floured surface to 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Using a 4 inch (10 cm) round cookie cutter or a round drinking glass, cut out circles and place them on the lined cookie sheets. Gather up the scraps of dough and re-roll to make more circles.
To fill the cookies, spoon 1 teaspoon of jam or preserves in the center of the dough circle.
To create the triangle shape, fold one side of the cookie in so that the edge comes to the middle of the jam filling. Fold the second side in the same way and so that it partially covers the first side. Fold the remaining side up and in so that it overlaps the other two sides. Chill for at least 10 minutes before baking. Repeat with the remaining disc.
Make an egg wash of the remaining egg beaten with the milk. Brush the outside of the cookies with egg wash with a pastry brush. Bake for 15 minutes or so until the cookies are golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.
ISRAELI JELLY DOUGHNUTS (SUFGANIYOT)
These yeast-risen, jam-filled, fried pastries originated in eastern Europe. A Czech friend claims that my sufganiyot look exactly like the koblihw she ate growing up. Others say that they resemble a Polish paczki. Both of those pastries, special indulgences for Fat Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent, became common in the nineteenth century after sugar was inexpensive enough for common people to afford regularly. Paczkis and their brethren were typically fried in lard. Jews from the region adopted the notion of a doughnut fried in fat, but used oil or schmaltz instead.
Today, sufganiyot are known as the food most associated with the festival of Hanukkah in Israel. Israelis go mad for sufganiyot during Hanukkah, with hundreds of thousands of the pastries sold throughout the country. Sufganiyot are a fitting Hanukkah food because, like latkes, they are fried in oil.
I think of sufganiyot as a way to showcase homemade jams. Select smooth jams, not chunky ones which can get stuck in the piping bag. Apricot and raspberry are the most traditional. Of the recipes in this book, Polish Strawberry Rhubarb Jam or Raspberry Red Currant Jam are both excellent choices. Lemon Curd would also be a fun twist.
MAKES 12 TO 14 DOUGHNUTS
21/4 teaspoons (9 g) active dry yeast
1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk, heated to 120°F (49°C)
21/2 cups (313 g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
Pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons (28 g) butter, softened
12 ounces (340 g) jam
64 ounces (1.8 L) vegetable or other neutral oil for frying
Mix the yeast, warm milk, and a pinch of sugar together in a small bowl. Allow to rest until foamy, about 10 minutes.
In the bowl of a standing mixer or large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, and cinnamon. Add the yeast mixture and start to mix using the paddle attachment. Add the eggs one at a time and then add the vanilla, followed by the butter. Continue to mix until the dough comes together.
Switch to the dough hook and knead. Alternatively, turn out onto a well-floured board and knead by hand until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes.
Place the dough in an oiled bowl and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a well-floured board. Roll out until it is 1/2 to 1/4 inch (1 to 10 .6 cm) thick. The dough may spring back. If it does, allow it to rest for 5 minutes and continue.
Using a round cookie cutter 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, cut out as many circles of dough as you can. Gather the scraps and roll out again. Cut as many more circles as you can, about 12 to 14 total. Place the circles on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a clean towel and allow to proof for 30 minutes.
Heat several inches (18 cm) of oil in a deep, heavy saucepan until it reaches 360°F (182°C) on a candy thermometer. It’s critical to reach and maintain this temperature so that the doughnuts cook all the way through but do not burn. In addition, maintaining the correct temperature will ensure that the doughnuts do not absorb too much oil and become greasy.
Add 4 doughnuts to the hot oil. They will puff up immediately. Flip the doughnuts after 1 minute. The doughnuts will brown quickly and some will flip over by themselves. Cook until both sides are golden brown, about 2 minutes total. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining doughnuts.
When the doughnuts are cool enough to handle, poke a hole in one end with a skewer and move the skewer around in a circle inside the doughnut to create space for the jam. Take care not to poke additional holes in the doughnut.
Using a piping bag outfitted with a 1/4-inch (6 mm) tip, pipe the jam in the hole just until it starts to spill out. Repeat with the remaining sufganiyot. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.
BASBOUSA (EGYPTIAN SEMOLINA CAKE)
Throughout the Middle East you encounter cakes, often served in diamond-shaped pieces that are made with semolina flour and drenched in a sugar syrup for sweetness and moisture. Some versions contain eggs, some yogurt, some coconut, and some almonds, but all share the two elements of semolina and syrup. This very same cake, albeit called a number of different things, such as tishpishti, revani, or namoura, also appears in North Africa, Turkey, Greece, and the Balkans. But the cake traces its origins to Sephardic Jews from Egypt. Today, in Israel, basbousa made with yogurt is a popular dessert at Shavout, when it is traditional to eat dairy foods; a nondairy version is served on Rosh Hashanah, when everyone strives to begin the new year on a sweet note.
Semolina is a form of durum, an ancient species of wheat that has remained popular in the Middle East and Mediterranean for making couscous, bulgur, pastries, and puddings. It has a pale yellow color and slightly grainier texture than regular flour. Here, the semolina gives the cake a crumbly texture, a slightly crunchy exterior, and a nuttiness that is a pleasing contrast to the sweetness of the syrup.
You can make a sugar syrup from scratch to douse your cake or use the Rose Petal Syrup recipe. Another idea is to open a jar of the Oranges in Syrup and use the syrup as the base for a citrusy syrup and garnish the cake with the reserved orange segments.
MAKES 1 CAKE
SYRUP
11/2 cups (300 g) sugar
11/2 cups (355 ml) water
2 tablespoons (28 ml) fresh lemon juice
2 to 3 drops of orange blossom water (optional)
OR
1 jar of Oranges in Syrup
3/4 cup (175 ml) water
1 cup (200 g) sugar
CAKE
2 cups (336 g) semolina flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1 cup (235 ml) vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup (230 g) plain whole milk yogurt
Zest of 1 orange
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4) and grease a 9 inch (23 cm) round cake pan.
If making the syrup from scratch, combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon juice and the orange blossom water (if using), reduce the heat to medium, and boil for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
If using the Oranges in Syrup, pour the syrup from the jar into a saucepan, reserving the oranges to garnish the cake. Add the water and sugar to the syrup in the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium and boil for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
To make the cake, whisk together the semolina, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.
Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. With the mixer running, slowly pour in the oil and mix until combined. Add the vanilla. Add the yogurt and mix until combined. Gradually add the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Add the orange zest and fold it in.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the edges begin to pull away from the sides of the pan and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean, about 40 to 45 minutes.
While the cake is still hot, slowly pour the syrup over the top, pausing periodically to allow the cake to absorb the syrup before adding more. Cool the cake on a wire rack before removing from pan. If using Oranges in Syrup, serve with the reserved orange segments on the side.