CHAPTER 2
PICKLES AND OTHER PRESERVED VEGETABLES
Pickled vegetables appear in both Ashkenazi and Sephardic cuisine, although not usually the same vegetables. The vegetables available to the Ashkenazi Jews in central and eastern Europe were typically root vegetables and other hardy species, such as onions, beets, carrots, cabbages, and cucumbers. These were pickled and fermented to last through winter not only to stave off malnutrition, but also because tangy pickled vegetables were a welcome contrast to the blandness and monotony of the rest of their winter diet.
When Jews from eastern Europe emigrated to America, they brought their fondness for pickles with them. Pushcart pickle vendors sold ”sour” cucumbers, cabbage, green beans, beets, and peppers. One could buy a single pickle to eat on the spot or buy in bulk to take home. The ubiquitousness of pickles in Jewish delis, where they served to cut through the fattiness of pastrami and corned beef, cemented the association between Jews and pickles.
Sephardic Jews had access to many more vegetables than their Ashkenazi brethren, in part because of the warmth of the climates in which they lived, and in part because living at the cultural crossroads of the Mediterranean exposed them to vegetables from all over the world. Although pickling and preserving was perhaps not as important for survival for the Sephardim, there was still a robust tradition of preserving vegetables. These pickles were then served as part of a first course, or meze, and then again as side dishes during a meal. Even today, crunchy pickled vegetables remain an important part of Middle Eastern cuisine.
How to Serve the Pickles in this Book
For a Jewish deli-style plate of ”sours,” put out a spread of Deli-style Kosher Dills, Al Paster’s Green Tomato Pickles, Polish-Style Pickled Beets, and German Pickled Red Onion. These mouth-puckering pickles would be the perfect accompaniment to a meal of corned beef, pastrami, chopped liver, or other rich Ashkenazi dishes. And if you’re making a Reuben for lunch, homemade sauerkraut (shown here) is a must.
For a Middle Eastern meze platter, perfect for a cocktail party or as a first course for a festive meal, arrange an array of pickled vegetables such as Syrian Pickled Cauliflower, Pink Pickled Hakurei Turnips, Bene Israel Quick-Pickled Eggplant, and Middle Eastern Marinated Sweet Peppers. To round out your spread, offer traditional dips, such as hummus, tzatziki, or Annie Zémor’s Matbucha, salads such as tabbouleh or fattoush, cubes of feta, and pita bread. With the addition of falafel, stuffed grape leaves, or kibbeh, this meze platter can turn into a complete meal, perfect for feeding a crowd. You can purchase any of the items that you don’t wish to make at your local Middle Eastern grocer. But be sure to let your guests know that the pickles are homemade.
TRADITIONAL (LACTO-FERMENTED) KOSHER DILLS
If you are new to fermentation, this relatively easy recipe for traditional kosher dill pickles is a good way to begin. You do not need to purchase much in the way of specialized equipment. You can ferment your pickles in a gallon (3.8 L) glass or ceramic container or even several quart-sized (950 ml) Mason jars. Beyond that, you only need cheesecloth to cover the top of the container. Regular plates and bowls will serve to weigh the cucumbers down and ensure that they stay submerged in the brine. The oak leaves add tannin to the brine which helps keep the cucumbers crisp. I simply use oak leaves from a tree in my neighborhood and wash them well. You can also use grape leaves for the same effect, if you prefer.
Pickled cucumbers were one of the few vegetables that many old world Ashkenazi Jews ate. The typical flavorings for Ashkenazi pickled cucumbers are dill, which was common in Poland and Russia, garlic, and brown mustard seed. Garlic is the seasoning most commonly associated with Jewish cuisine. In common parlance, the term ”kosher dill” simply means a dill pickle flavored with garlic, not one that is prepared in accordance with kosher dietary laws.
MAKE 11/2 QUARTS (1.4 L) 
4 pounds (1.8 kg) pickling or Kirby cucumbers
1 head of garlic, divided into cloves
3 fresh dill heads (or substitute 1 to 2 tablespoons [7 to 14 g] dill seeds if you cannot source fresh dill heads)
1 tablespoon (11 g) brown mustard seeds
1 tablespoon (5 g) black peppercorns
4 oak or grape leaves
BRINE
3 quarts (2.8 L) filtered water
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (162 g) pickling salt
Wash the cucumbers and trim off the blossom end (not the stem end). This end contains an enzyme which can lead to mushy pickles. Peel and lightly crush the garlic cloves.
Combine the cucumbers, garlic, dill heads, mustard seeds, and peppercorns in a clean gallon (3.8 L) container. Tuck oak or grape leaves around the cucumbers.
Dissolve the salt in the water to make the brine. Pour the brine over the cucumbers and spices. Use small plates or bowls to keep the cucumbers submerged. You can place a jar filled with water on top of the plates or bowls to help with this process. Make sure that the brine covers the vegetables by a few inches (10 cm). Reserve any extra brine in case you need to add more later.
Cover the mouth of the container with several layers of cheesecloth secured by string or a rubber band. Place the container in a dark, cool (but not cold) place, such as a basement. Check daily to monitor fermentation process. The brine should begin to turn cloudy after a few days and you will see bubbles rising to the surface. Make sure that the vegetables remain submerged in brine. If the brine level gets low, add the reserved brine until the vegetables are covered.
If you see mold on the surface of the brine at any point, skim it off with a clean spoon. Replace the cheesecloth covering with a fresh layer. Begin to taste the pickles after 6 days by removing one using a clean utensil. When they no longer taste salty and are pleasantly sour, they are ready. This can take up to 2 weeks.
To store fermented pickles, skim any remaining scum or mold off the surface of the brine. Transfer the pickles to a clean and sterilized 11/2 quart (1.4 L) jar and cover with brine. Keep refrigerated to halt the fermentation process. Pickles will last in the refrigerator for up to 1 year.
◁ DELI-STYLE KOSHER DILLS
If you are not ready to dive into fermentation, you can make a version of the kosher dill pickle with a vinegar-based brine and process the jars in a water-bath canner. While not as traditional, these only take an hour or so to make, as opposed to two weeks, and they have the benefit of being shelf-stable. For pickles that I plan to process in a boiling water bath, I prefer to use dill seeds rather than fresh dill because I think they hold up better.
For packing these pickles in the jars, I leave the smaller ones whole and cut the larger ones into halves and quarters. I begin by placing a clove or two of garlic in the bottom of the jar. Then I add small, whole cucumbers and finally fill in the empty spaces with halves and quarters until I have packed as many cucumbers in the jar as I can without crushing or damaging them. It is also nice when opening the jar to have a variety of whole pickles and pickle spears to serve.
MAKES 6 PINT (475 ML) JARS
4 pounds (1.8 kg) pickling or Kirby cucumbers, washed and blossom end trimmed
3 cups (700 ml) white vinegar
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
3 cups (700 ml) water
6 to 12 cloves of garlic
6 teaspoons (14 g) dill seeds
6 teaspoons (10 g) black peppercorns
3 teaspoons (11 g) brown mustard seeds
Prepare a boiling water bath and place 6 pint (475 ml) jars in the water. Bring the water to a boil to sterilize the jars.
Combine the vinegar and pickling salt with the water in a saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt.
Remove a jar from the water bath and pack it with cucumbers, 1 to 2 cloves of garlic, 1 teaspoon dill seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, and 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds.
Ladle the vinegar solution over the cucumbers in the jar, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Repeat with the remaining jars.
Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 5 minutes. Promptly remove. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: Because these pickles are processed for less than 10 minutes, you must sterilize the jars before filling them.
GERMAN PICKLED RED ONION
Onions have played a starring role in Jewish cuisine since Biblical times and are mentioned frequently in Rabbinic literature. For Ashkenazi Jews in particular, onions, both raw and fried, were the principal seasoning for much of their food. It is impossible to imagine traditional Ashkenazi foods such as chopped liver, kasha, pierogies, and kugel without fried onions. Onions were so central to the Ashkenazis’ existence that there are many Yiddish expressions that use onions as metaphors, such as s’iz nisht vert tzibeleh,” or ”it isn’t worth an onion.” And the way you call someone a wet blanket in Yiddish is to call him a bitereh tzibeleh or ”a bitter onion.”
Pickled red onions appear across many cuisines, including German, Eastern European, and even Mexican. They are also a classic Jewish deli condiment used to garnish platters of smoked fish and bowls of chopped liver. The exceptionally pretty pink color and vinegary tang liven up bland, fatty dishes. What makes this version of pickled red onions distinctly Jewish is the use of sugar to create a sweet-sour combination, an important characteristic of German, and later Polish, Jewish cuisine.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
4 large red onions (about 3 pounds, or 1.4 kg), trimmed and sliced
2 cups (475 ml) distilled white vinegar
11/2 cups (355 ml) water
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (18 g) pickling salt
12 allspice berries
12 whole cloves
3 teaspoons (11 g) yellow mustard seeds
11/2 teaspoons black peppercorns
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars.
In a large saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the onions to the pan and stir to combine. Cover and return to a boil. Remove the cover and turn the heat down to medium. Boil the onions gently until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Remove the jars from the water. To each jar, add 4 allspice berries, 4 cloves, 1 teaspoon mustard seeds, and 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, divide the onions evenly among the jars.
Cover the onions with the hot brine, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of head space at the top of each jar. (There may be leftover brine.) Bubble the jars and measure again. Add additional brine if the headspace is lower than 1/2 inch (1 cm). Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow to cure for at least 2 days before opening. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
QUICK-PICKLED BLACK RADISH
Mentioned in the Talmud, black radish is one of earliest crops cultivated by Jews. Both Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jews use black radish in their cuisine, but the highly nutritious vegetable was especially important to the Ashkenazim who could grow and store so few vegetables successfully. Raw black radishes appear in Ashkenazi salads, often combined with onion and dressed with schmatlz, or as an ingredient in chopped liver. In the Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, Gil Marks notes that black radish, or ritach in Yiddish, was even cooked with honey and ginger into a Passover eingemacht, which frankly sounds terrible.
Black radish has a distinctive coal-black exterior and a bright white flesh. They are larger than the red radishes we usually see—up to 3 or 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in diameter. Look for black radish, which is sometimes known as Spanish radish, at farmers’ markets in early spring and again in October. Choose firm specimens and avoid soft or squishy ones. The taste of raw back radish is quite peppery, but the pickling process tames the spiciness. They can also be substituted for turnips in many recipes. If you cannot find black radish, daikon radishes are the best substitute, but unlike with black radishes, you should peel them.
Here, in keeping with the tradition of raw radish salads, I quick-pickle black radish to preserve its crunchy texture. These radish slices, which will keep up to a month in the refrigerator, are delicious on buttered rye or pumpernickel, in salads, or as part of a relish tray.
MAKES 1 QUART (950 ML)
1 pound (455 g) black radishes
1 red onion, sliced
1 cup (235 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon (13 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (18 g) pickling salt
1 cup (235 ml) water
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dill seeds
1/2 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds
Wash the radishes well, but do not peel. Slice them thinly and place in a bowl of ice water until needed.
Sterilize a quart (950 ml) jar by filling it with boiling water and allowing it to sit for 5 minutes. Pour the water out and allow the jar to air-dry.
Combine the apple cider vinegar, sugar, and salt with 1 cup (235 ml) of water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Add the peppercorns, dill, mustard and celery seeds and allow the brine to cool to room temperature.
Pack the radish and onion slices into the sterilized jar. Pour the brine over the vegetables. Bubble the jar to release any air bubbles. Cover and refrigerate. Allow to cure for 2 to 3 days before eating. These quick-pickled radishes will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
PICKLED DAMSON PLUMS
Damsons are an ancient variety of plum, characterized by their small size and blue-black skin. Still popular in Europe, damson plums are little-known in the United States, but look for them at your farmers’ market in late summer or early fall. You do not want to eat them out of hand, but they are excellent for baking and preserving. The flesh of the damson plum has low water content, which helps to preserve the fruit’s shape in cooking, and it is naturally high in pectin.
Because they are so tart, damsons work well in savory dishes. It is difficult to separate the stones from the flesh. Thus, it was traditional to make preserves from whole, unpitted fruit, such as these spiced pickles. Pickled damsons are a delicious accompaniment to grilled and roasted poultry.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
2 quarts damson plums (about 3 pounds, or 1.4 kg), pricked a few times with a fork
21/2 cups (500 g) brown sugar
11/2 cups (355 ml) apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup (120 ml) water
1 orange
2 cinnamon sticks, slightly crushed
1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon allspice berries
1 star anise
Preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C, or gas mark 1).
Place the plums in a baking dish large enough so they are mostly in a single layer. Set aside.
Combine the brown sugar, vinegar, and water in a medium saucepan. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest from the orange in long strips and add them to the saucepan.
Combine the cinnamon sticks, cloves, allspice berries, and star anise in a spice bag or tie up in a square of cheesecloth. Add it to the saucepan. Bring the syrup to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes to infuse the syrup with the spices.
Pour the syrup over the plums in the baking dish and cover. Roast the plums in the oven for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (473 ml) jars. When the plums are cooked, transfer them to the warm jars using a slotted spoon. Arrange the plums in even layers and pack as many as you can in the jars without damaging the fruit. This will prevent “fruit float.”
Ladle the syrup over the fruit, leaving a minimum of 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. This syrup tends to siphon out of the jars, causing them not to seal.
Bubble the jars and measure the headspace again, adding more syrup if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow to cure for 2 weeks before opening. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: Use regular-mouth pint (475 ml) jars for this recipe because the indent at the top of the jar will help keep the fruit from floating. You will likely have leftover syrup, which you can mix with seltzer for a refreshing, old-fashioned beverage known as a shrub. It is also delicious mixed into salad dressing or reduce it for use as a sauce.
AL PASTER’S GREEN TOMATO PICKLES
Any Jewish deli worthy of the name will have a dish of kosher dills on every table. You know you are at an authentic deli if the dish contains kosher dills, half-sours, and pickled green tomatoes. Pickled green tomatoes were a favorite of my paternal grandfather, Al Paster, and he used to search through the barrels at the pickle store for ones with a slight reddish blush, which he thought had superior flavor. He was a bit of a character and always liked to worked an angle.
Green tomatoes are frequently available at farmers’ markets in the fall for a good price. Many backyard gardeners will happily give them away close to the first frost, so ask around. Use smaller tomatoes because the wedges will fit in the jars more easily. Also, you can fit more wedges into regular-mouth pint (473 ml) jars than wide-mouth jars.
MAKES 6 PINTS (2.8 L)
4 pounds (1.8 kg) green tomatoes, 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in diameter, or smaller
3 cups (705 ml) distilled white vinegar
3 cups (705 ml) water
3 tablespoons (54 g) pickling salt
6 bay leaves
6 cloves of garlic, peeled
11/2 teaspoons mustard seeds
11/2 teaspoons dill seeds
3 teaspoons (8 g) black peppercorns
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 6 pint (473 ml) jars.
Cut the tomatoes into 6 or 8 wedges depending on their size. In a large saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt.
Put the tomatoes into warm jars, arranging the pieces carefully, layer by layer, and packing them as tightly as possible without crushing them. Add a bay leaf and garlic clove to each jar as you pack them, as they will fit more easily than waiting until the end. Add 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds, 1/2 teaspoon dill seeds, and 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns to each jar.
Ladle the brine over the tomatoes leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and measure the headspace again, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the tomatoes to cure for at least 2 weeks before opening. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
POLISH-STYLE PICKLED BEETS
Beets played an important role in Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine. For example, chrain, a bright pink sauce made with horseradish and beet juice, is a traditional accompaniment to gefilte fish. And then there are pickled beets. Many cuisines from northeastern Europe—Scandinavia, Russia, Poland, the Baltic states, and Germany—have their own versions. Indeed, my mother, who traces her family back to Sweden, makes a version of quick-pickled beets for her annual Swedish smorgasbord.
Along with pickled cucumbers and sauerkraut, pickled beets were unquestionably a staple in the diet of Ashkenazi Jews. Because Polish Jews are known for their love of sweet and sour foods, I have made my version of pickled beets extra sweet with apple cider vinegar, sugar, and cinnamon. I like a heavily seasoned version of pickled beets myself, but if you prefer, you can leave out the spices or add different ones. Caraway seeds, for example, would make your pickled beets more Scandinavian, like my mother’s version.
MAKES 4 PINTS (1.9 L)
3 pounds (1.4 kg) beets, washed and stems and ends trimmed
2 cups (475 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 cup (235 ml) water
1 cup (200 g) sugar
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
4 cinnamon sticks
4 bay leaves
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
8 allspice berries
Cover the beets with water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil covered for 20 to 30 minutes or until the beets are tender. Drain.
While the beets are cooking, prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 pint (475 ml) jars.
As soon as the beets are cool enough to handle, remove the skins using your fingers or a paring knife. Cut smaller beets into quarters and larger beets into sixths. Then cut each piece in half, so you end up with 6 or 8 pieces for smaller beets and 10 to 12 pieces for larger ones. The beets will stain everything they touch, so be careful of your countertops and cutting board!
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and pickling salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.
Pack the beets into the clean, warm jars as tightly as possible without crushing the pieces, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Add a cinnamon stick, a bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, and 2 allspice berries to each jar.
Ladle the brine over the beets, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars and wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the beets to cure for at least 1 week before opening. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: If you buy beets with the greens attached, do not let those greens go to waste! They are incredibly nutritious. Wash them well in several changes of cold water and remove the woody stems. Sliced into ribbons, beet greens are wonderful sautéed with some garlic, and work well in soups, stews, and frittatas.
SWEET AND SOUR PICKLED RED CABBAGE
Sauerkraut is the most common form of pickled cabbage. For those of you who are not ready to dip your toes in the lacto-fermentation waters, here is a recipe for a vinegar-pickled red cabbage that is easy to make. It has a tangy flavor that is a delightful accompaniment to braised meats. The sharp taste also refreshes the palate when eating fried foods.
Cabbage was a staple food for Ashkenazi Jews, as it was for their neighbors. Cabbages not only grew well in the harsh climate and kept well but, of course, they are extremely nutritious. Many cuisines have a signature dish made with cabbage, from Korean kimchi to Irish colcannon to Hungarian stuffed cabbage. German Jews enjoyed cabbage, in sauerkraut, and they also combined cabbage with other vegetables and even fruits, such as apples. This pickled red cabbage has the sweet-sour flavor combination that Ashkenazi Jews favor. Try some alongside chicken schnitzel for a German-inspired meal.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
1 head of red cabbage
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
3 cups (700 ml) apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup (60 g) brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon (6 g) whole cloves
1 tablespoon (11 g) mustard seeds
1 tablespoon (5 g) black peppercorns
1 teaspoon celery seeds
Remove the outer leaves and cut off the bottom of the cabbage. Quarter and cut out the white core from each quarter. Slice thinly. Layer the sliced cabbage and salt in a large bowl and toss to combine. Cover and place in a cool place overnight.
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars.
Drain and rinse the cabbage.
In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and cinnamon stick and stir to dissolve the sugar. Tie the cloves, mustard seeds, peppercorns, and celery seeds in a spice bag and place it in the saucepan. Bring the vinegar to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes to infuse the liquid with the spices. Return to a boil and then remove from the heat.
Pack the cabbage slices tightly in the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Frequently press down on the cabbage to create more room.
Ladle the hot brine over the cabbage, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the cabbage to cure for 1 week before opening. Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: I recommend using regular-mouth pint (475 ml) jars for this project because the shoulders help keep the cabbage submerged.
◁ SMALL-BATCH SAUERKRAUT
Sauerkraut, or sour cabbage, originated in eastern Europe during the Renaissance, after traders from the east introduced the Chinese method of lacto-fermentation. Over the next few centuries, the dish spread westward, often carried by Jews, to Germany, France, and even England, until it became one of the most important dishes in all of northern Europe. Sauerkraut required so little to make—just cabbage and salt. It kept for months and provided an important source of vitamin C, as well as adding a jolt of flavor to otherwise bland diets during long winters.
In Europe, Ashkenazi families began fermenting cabbage and other vegetables in large barrels in the fall, around Succot. Once the fermentation process was complete, after two to four weeks, the finished sauerkraut was stored over the winter in a cool spot. It appeared frequently at mealtime, either on its own served with black bread or mixed in with noodles, potatoes, or meat.
Immigrants to America brought sauerkraut with them in the nineteenth century. The special kosher dining room at Ellis Island had both kosher dills and sauerkraut on its menu. Sauerkraut became a staple of Jewish delis and it is an integral part of the Reuben sandwich, an American invention which combines corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on grilled rye bread.
MAKES 1 QUART (950 ML)
1 medium head of green cabbage (3 to 31/2 pounds, or 1.4 to 1.6 kg), as fresh as possible
Sea or pickling salt (avoid iodized salt)
Begin by sterilizing a half-gallon (1.9 L) jar and a regular-mouth 8-ounce (235 ml) jar by filling them with boiling water and then pouring it out and allowing the jars to air-dry.
Measure out the salt into a small bowl, using a ratio of 1 tablespoon (15 g) salt per pound (455 g) of cabbage. For example, for 31/2 pounds (1.6 kg) of cabbage, use 31/2 tablespoons (53 to 63 g) salt.
Remove any damaged outer leaves from the cabbage and quarter it. Cut away the core from all four quarters. Finely shred the leaves with a large knife or mandoline. Place one-quarter of the shredded cabbage in a bowl big enough to hold all the cabbage. Firmly massage one-quarter of the salt into the cabbage in a large bowl. Repeat this process until all of the cabbage and salt have been combined in the bowl.
Set the bowl aside for 30 minutes to allow the salt to begin drawing the water out of the cabbage. Check the cabbage. A salty brine should be collecting in the bowl. Using your hands, squeeze the shredded cabbage, reserving the liquid, and pack it into the half-gallon (1.9 L) jar. Use a wooden spoon or other tool to lightly tamp it down and remove air bubbles.
After all the cabbage has been packed into the jar, add the collected liquid. The cabbage should be covered by the liquid. If it is not, you will need to add brine to cover.
Fill the small jar with water and cover with a lid and ring. Place this inside the neck of the larger jar; it will serve as a weight to keep the cabbage submerged. Cover the top of the larger jar with cheesecloth (to allow gas to escape but to prevent dirt or bugs from entering the jar) and secure it with twine, a rubber band, or a ring. Set aside out of direct sunlight in a room 55°F to 75°F (13°C to 24°C).
Once the sauerkraut has begun the fermenting process, you will need to check it every day to make sure the cabbage remains submerged in the brine. You will see small bubbles begin to form and collect on the surface of the brine. If there is any scum (white, yellow, or bluish growth), carefully scoop it off without stirring it into the liquid, and discard. The brine will become cloudy over time, and the odor may be pungent.
When it is no longer bubbling, the fermentation is complete. This process can take anywhere from 1 to 4 weeks, depending on the temperature of the environment. Once the sauerkraut is finished, store it in the refrigerator, dividing into smaller jars if desired. It will last for several months.
Note: To make additional brine: use a ratio of 1 tablespoon (8 g) kosher salt per 1 cup (235 ml) of water. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt. Turn off the heat and let the brine cool to room temperature before adding to the cabbage.
ANNIE ZÉMOR’S MATBUCHA
Matbucha, sometimes spelled matboukha or madboucha, is a Moroccan dish of cooked tomatoes and roasted bell peppers seasoned with garlic and chili pepper. In the Maghreb, matbucha is typically served as part of the meze that precede the main meal. Israelis are tremendously fond of matbucha, and it appears frequently in restaurants as an appetizer.
Making matbucha is time-consuming, so many Sephardic cooks make it in large batches and freeze any unused portions. I have created a version that is acidic enough to be safely canned, so that you can make a large batch when tomatoes and peppers are in season and enjoy it year round.
Before serving, drizzle your matbucha with your favorite fruity olive oil. It makes a spectacular dip with warm pita. Try it also as a base for Shakshuka, or as a substitute for harissa in your Middle Eastern cooking.
MAKES 5 PINTS (2.4 L)
6 bell peppers (red, yellow, or orange; not green)
16 small green or red hot peppers
12 large tomatoes, seeded and diced
8 cloves of garlic, minced
11/4 cups (295 ml) apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons (26 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (15 g) sea salt
Preheat the broiler and place a rack in the upper third of the oven.
Arrange the bell peppers on a foil-lined baking sheet. Broil the peppers, turning two or three times, until charred all over, about 30 to 35 minutes. Place the peppers in a heatproof bowl and cover. Allow to stand for 10 minutes. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, remove the skins, stems, and seeds and chop them. Set aside.
Heat a skillet large enough to hold the hot peppers in a single layer over high heat. Blister the hot peppers in the skillet, turning two or three times, until charred all over.
Wearing gloves to protect your skin, peel the skin off the hot peppers and split open. Remove the seeds and dice the peppers.
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 5 pint (475 ml) jars.
In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, combine the bell peppers, hot peppers, tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down and simmer until thickened, about 30 minutes.
Ladle the matbucha into the clean, warm jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace at the top. Bubble the jars and measure the headspace again, adding more matbucha if necessary. Wipe the rims. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance.
Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
◁ RABBI MAX’S PICKLED EGGS
This recipe is not like any of the others in the book, but I could not in good conscience leave it out. When I told my rabbi Max Weiss that I was writing a book about Jewish preserving, he immediately told me that in North Carolina, where he is from, Jews used to be known as ”egg eaters” because they carried pickled hard-boiled eggs with them when they traveled. Intrigued, I researched this anecdote and learned that, indeed, the Cherokees were the ones who had bestowed this nickname upon itinerant Jewish peddlers who traveled throughout the American South and West in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. To keep kosher on the road, especially in places where pork was the dominant meat, these men either stuck to a vegetarian diet or brought their food with them, including beef sausage, pickled herring, and pickled eggs.
Eggs have a special significance to the Jewish people. The Passover Seder plate is not complete without a roasted egg. Associated with mourning in Jewish religious observance, hard-boiled eggs dipped in ashes are the final meal eaten before Tisha B’Av, the saddest day in the Jewish calendar.
Pickled eggs are a classic bar snack throughout the American south. There are many recipes, including sweet versions, spicy versions, and shocking pink versions made with pickled beets. This version is a little sweet with the use of apple cider vinegar, but it mostly sticks to classic Ashkenazi flavors, including dill, mustard, onion, and garlic. The vinegar gives the eggs a rubbery, but not unpleasant, texture. Pickled eggs make a convenient snack or a delicious addition to salads, sandwiches, or a classic English ploughman’s lunch.
MAKES 1 DOZEN EGGS
12 large eggs
11/2 cups (355 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 cup (235 ml) water
1 small onion, minced
1 clove of garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
1/4 teaspoon dill seeds
Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3).
Sterilize a quart (950 ml) jar by filling it with boiling water, draining it, and allowing it to air-dry.
Place the unpeeled eggs in the cavities of a muffin tin. Bake 30 minutes and then immediately plunge in an ice water bath to stop the cooking. When cooled, peel the eggs. Place them in the jar.
Combine the remaining ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Ladle the brine over the eggs in the jar. Cover and refrigerate. Allow the eggs to cure for 72 hours before eating. The eggs will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Note: I find oven-baking is easier than boiling for preparing large quantities of hard-cooked eggs.
BENE ISRAEL QUICK-PICKLED EGGPLANT
Whether fried, baked, roasted, or stuffed, eggplant is one of the signature vegetables of Sephardic cuisine. Indeed, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the British called eggplant ”the Jew’s apple” because it was so adored by the Sephardic Jews who were likely responsible for introducing the vegetable to their shores.
Eggplant has always been widely available, filling, and inexpensive: true peasant food. In the lean, early years of the Israeli state, for example, eggplant was one of the few vegetables widely available, much to the dismay of the recently arrived Ashkenazi Jews who had no idea how to prepare it.
Pickled eggplant is a specialty of the historic community of Jews in India, known as Bene Israel. This recipe has more of a Middle Eastern flavor than a South Asian one, but I love the idea that different communities of Jews have different takes on pickled eggplant. Two eggplants will give you three pints (1.4 L) of pickled eggplant, which may be more than you want, so feel free to halve the recipe. On the other hand, this pickled eggplant is so tangy and mouth-watering, three pints (1.4 L) can disappear in no time, especially if you offer some to guests. I like to put out these pickled eggplant cubes as part of a lunch spread.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
2 medium eggplant, peeled and cubed
1 tablespoon (8 g) kosher salt
2 cups (475 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 cup (235 ml) white wine vinegar
1 cup (235 ml) water
1 teaspoon sugar
6 cloves of garlic, sliced
3 dried chiles
12 mint leaves
Place the eggplant cubes in a colander and sprinkle with salt. Cover with a paper towel and weight down with a plate. Allow the eggplant to drain for 30 minutes.
Sterilize 3 pint (475 ml) jars by filling them with boiling water and allowing then to sit for 5 minutes. Pour the water out and allow the jars to air-dry naturally. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, bring the vinegars, water, and sugar to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the eggplant and simmer until softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggplant cubes to the jars. Add 2 cloves of sliced garlic, a dried chile, and 4 mint leaves to each jar.
Cover the eggplant cubes with brine, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Allow the jars to cool, cover them, and refrigerate. Allow the eggplant to cure for 2 to 3 days before serving. Pickled eggplant will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.
MIDDLE EASTERN MARINATED SWEET PEPPERS
A salad of marinated peppers is a classic Sephardic meze. This simple dish of roasted peppers, olive oil, vinegar, and perhaps some spice is sublime when the peppers are fresh and in season. But do not even try to make this dish with those anemic, and shockingly expensive, out-of-season peppers that are available all year long in American grocery stores. It simply won’t be the same.
I prefer to stock up on sweet bell peppers in late summer and fall, when they are abundant and inexpensive at my local farmers’ market, and prepare this recipe. Of all the preserved fruits and vegetables I have made in the past decade, these marinated peppers were my late father’s favorite. They are wonderful on sandwiches and in Shakshuka, or served straight out of the jar, perhaps accompanied by Bene Israel Quick-Pickled Eggplant, as meze.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
8 medium to large bell peppers (red, orange, or yellow; not green)
1 cup (235 ml) distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup (120 ml) bottled lemon juice
1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (18 g) pickling salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
3 cloves of garlic, sliced
Preheat the broiler and place a rack in the upper third of the oven. Arrange the bell peppers on a foil-lined baking sheet.
Broil the peppers, turning two or three times, until charred all over, about 30 to 35 minutes total.
Place the peppers in a heatproof bowl and cover. Allow to stand for 10 minutes. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, slip off the charred skin and remove the stems, core, and seeds. Cut the peppers into three or four pieces.
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars.
Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil, sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Pack the peppers into the jars and divide the sliced garlic evenly among them.
Ladle the brine over the peppers, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. The jars will siphon quite a bit, so do not be tempted to leave less headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
TUNISIAN HARISSA
Everyone agrees that harissa is a spicy red pepper-and-garlic paste from North Africa, specifically Tunisia, that Israelis love. But there is plenty of debate over what other ingredients belong in harissa. Should harissa have onion? Tomato? Paprika? Caraway? Personally, I prefer a simple harissa with peppers, garlic, cumin, and not much else.
Red cherry bomb peppers, which are similar to jalapeños on the Scoville scale, make a harissa that is fruity and not too spicy. If you cannot source them, use jalapeños, but reduce the weight to 6 ounces (170 g) of peppers because they are spicier.
This recipe is not acidic enough to be canned safely and adding more acid would change the flavor too much. However, harissa will keep in the refrigerator for months and it even freezes well. So make this recipe in the late summer and early fall, when hot and sweet peppers are readily available at the farmers’ market, keep half, and freeze the remaining half until needed.
Harissa is extremely versatile as a condiment or an ingredient. Use it in your favorite Middle Eastern and North African dishes, as a flavor base for soups and stews, in a marinade, or as an accompaniment to grilled meat. Harissa is also delicious mixed with plain yogurt for a creamy, less spicy sauce.
MAKES THREE 8-OUNCE (235 ML) JARS
4 red bell peppers
2 tablespoons (28 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to top the jar
8 ounces (225 g) cherry bomb peppers (about 12), seeded and chopped
12 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
Preheat the broiler and place a rack in the upper third of the oven. Arrange the bell peppers on a foil-lined baking sheet.
Broil the peppers, turning two or three times, until charred all over, about 30 to 35 minutes.
Place the peppers in a heatproof bowl and cover. Allow to stand for 10 minutes. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, slip off the skin, and remove the stems, core, and seeds. Set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the cherry bomb peppers and garlic. Sauté the hot peppers and garlic over medium-low heat until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to brown.
Place the bell peppers, sautéed garlic, hot peppers, lemon juice, cumin, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture resembles a slightly chunky paste, adding more olive oil if necessary. Taste and adjust seasonings.
Transfer the harissa into clean and sterilized glass jars, leaving 3/4 inch (2 cm) of headspace. Add a layer of oil to the top of the jar. (Do not add oil if you are planning to freeze the harissa.) Store in the refrigerator until needed.
SYRIAN PICKLED CAULIFLOWER
Pickled cauliflower might be new to you, but it is a common breakfast food in Israel, along with cheese, hummus, labneh (yogurt cheese), pita bread, and crunchy salads of cucumbers and tomatoes. Like pickled turnips, pickled cauliflower is a staple of Middle Eastern meze spreads. It is a particular specialty of Syrian Jews, who are famous for their culinary prowess. This recipe is straightforward and simple, to highlight the flavor of the cauliflower. The beet is present mostly to add color.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
1 large head of cauliflower (about 21/2 pounds, or 1.2 kg) cut into florets
1 medium beet, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
2 cups (475 ml) distilled white vinegar
2 cups (475 ml) water
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
11/2 teaspoons black peppercorns, divided
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars.
Combine the vinegar, water, and salt in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt. Reduce the heat, add the cauliflower and beets, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Add 2 garlic halves and 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns to each jar. Using a slotted spoon, pack the vegetables tightly into the jars, making sure to distribute the beets evenly. (There may be beets left over.)
Ladle the hot brine over the vegetables, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the cauliflower to cure for 2 to 3 days before opening. Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: I recommend using regular-mouth pint (475 ml) jars for this project because the shoulders help keep the cauliflower submerged.
PINK PICKLED HAKUREI TURNIPS
Turnips seem an unlikely candidate for pickling. But if you have ever eaten at a Middle Eastern restaurant, you probably have had pickled turnips without even knowing it. Those bright pink, crunchy pickled vegetables that are nestled into your favorite falafel sandwich are turnips. They are hard to recognize beneath that shocking pink exterior, which, by the way, comes from the judicious addition of beets to the jar.
Pink pickled turnips, known as torshi left, are a favorite among Jews from North Africa and the Middle East. In Israel, they are often served as part of a meze spread. I have modernized this classic Sephardic pickle to use not the large, slightly scary turnips lurking in the bottom shelf of the produce section, but rather the delicately flavored Japanese turnips, known as Hakurei or Tokyo turnips, that are available at farmers’ markets in spring and fall.
Hakurei turnips are slightly peppery, but not at all bitter, almost like a radish. In fact, they are so sweet that you can even eat them raw as a snack or in a salad. Here, they make a tasty and eye-catching pickle. However you prepare your Hakurei turnips, do not discard the green tops! They are extremely nutritious and are delicious when sautéed.
MAKES 2 QUARTS (1.9 L)
2 pounds (910 g) Hakurei turnips
2 small or 1 medium beet
1 cup (235 ml) apple cider vinegar
3 cups (700 ml) water
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
4 cloves of garlic, sliced
2 dried red chiles
Sterilize 2 quart (945 ml) jars by filling them with boiling water and allowing then to sit for 5 minutes. Pour the water out and allow the jars to air-dry.
Trim the turnips and peel off the outer skin. Do the same with the beet. Cut the turnips in half and then cut each half into 3 or 4 wedges, depending on the size of the turnips. Repeat with the beet.
Combine the apple cider vinegar, water, salt, and garlic cloves in a small saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil.
Pack the turnips into the jars. Divide the beets equally between the jars and place a dried chile in each.
Ladle the hot brine over the vegetables, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and add more brine if necessary to cover the vegetables. Allow the jars to cool, cover them, and refrigerate. Allow the turnips to cure for 2 to 3 days before serving. Pickled turnips will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.
ROMAN-STYLE PICKLED BABY ARTICHOKES
One of the best-known dishes of Italian Jewish cuisine is carciofi alla giudia, or artichokes in the Jewish style, which is a whole, deep-fried artichoke. This seasonal dish, which today is served as an appetizer in trattorias all over the Eternal City, originated in the restaurants of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, a place where food was scarce and residents endeavored to make the most of what they had.
Another way to prepare whole artichokes, especially the baby artichokes of early spring, is to pickle them. Homemade pickled artichokes are fresher-tasting and firmer than the mushy, marinated artichoke hearts you buy at the grocery store. Drizzled with your favorite extra-virgin olive oil, they are a wonderful addition to a salad or appetizer platter. Or, try them on a pizza quattro stagioni.
MAKES 4 PINTS (1.9 L)
4 pounds (1.8 kg) baby artichokes (about 32 artichokes)
4 large lemons
3 cups (700 ml) distilled white vinegar
4 cloves of garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon (18 g) pickling salt
4 dried red chiles
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 4 pint (475 ml) jars.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the juice of 1 lemon. Remove the dark green outer leaves of the baby artichokes, stopping only when you reach the more tender, thinner, paler inner leaves. Trim off the tops and stem and slice in half. As you halve each artichoke, rub the cut edges with half a lemon and place in the bowl of water to prevent browning.
Juice 11/2 lemons. (You will need 1/2 cup [120 ml] of lemon juice.) Combine the juice, vinegar, garlic, and salt in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt.
Slice 1 lemon thinly. Remove one of the jars and place a lemon slice at the bottom. Pack the jar with artichoke halves, as tightly as possible without damaging the vegetables, and add 1 red chile. Repeat with the remaining jars.
Ladle the hot brine over the artichokes in the jars, making sure to include some of the garlic in each jar and leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing.
Allow the artichokes to cure for 2 weeks before opening. Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
CRUNCHY PICKLED OKRA
Okra has been a favorite vegetable among Sephardic Jews since the Moors introduced it to Spain in the Middle Ages. (Okra originated in eastern Africa.) Once Europeans began eating tomatoes, after their discovery in the Americas, Sephardic Jews began pairing the two vegetables, much as people do in the American South. Sephardic cooks also pickled okra, along with many other vegetables, in a vinegar brine to serve as meze.
If you usually don’t care for okra because of its slimy texture, I have good news. During the pickling process, the mostly hollow pods absorb the brine, which eliminates the interior slime. The end result is delightfully crunchy, free of slime, and will convert even dyed-in-the-wool okra haters. Look for small to medium pods, around 31/2 to 4 inches (9 to 10 cm) in length, that will fit easily into a pint-sized (475 ml) jar.
MAKES 5 PINTS (2.4 L)
2 pounds (910 g) okra, stems trimmed
3 cups (700 ml) apple cider vinegar
3 cups (700 ml) water
3 tablespoons (54 g) pickling salt
1 tablespoon (13 g) sugar
5 cloves of garlic, divided
1 lemon, thinly sliced
5 dried red chile peppers
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 5 pint (475 ml) jars.
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a large saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Once it boils, remove the brine from the heat.
Place a lemon slice at the bottom of each jar. Pack the okra into the clean, warm jars, alternating stem up and stem down to get as many pods in the jar as possible. Add 1 clove of garlic, 1 dried chile pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds to each jar.
Ladle the hot brine over the okra in the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the okra to cure for 2 weeks before opening.
Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Note: I recommend regular-mouth pint (475 ml) jars to prevent the okra pods from floating above the brine.
◁ PICKLED CARROTS TWO WAYS
Here are two recipes for pickled carrots: one with the typical Ashkenazi flavors of dill and garlic and another with the typical Sephardic and North African flavors of chiles and cumin. Both are quite tasty, and the carrot sticks standing up in the jars make for an attractive presentation. Serve them as part of your own meze spread, along with pickled turnips, cauliflower, eggplant, and marinated peppers, or alongside a favorite sandwich.
MAKES 3 PINTS (1.4 L)
3 pounds (1.4 kg) carrots, preferably with the green tops on
2 cups (475 ml) distilled white vinegar
2 cups (475 ml) water
2 tablespoons (36 g) pickling salt
SEPHARDIC SEASONING
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
4 small dried red chile peppers
OR
ASHKENAZI SEASONING
2 teaspoons dill seeds
4 cloves of garlic, peeled
Prepare a boiling water bath and heat 3 pint (475 ml) jars.
Peel the carrots and cut them into sticks 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) long. Bring a large pot of water to boil and blanch the carrots by cooking them in the boiling water for 60 to 90 seconds. Remove the carrots from the water and immediately plunge them in an ice water bath to stop the cooking. Once the carrots are cool to the touch, drain.
Combine the vinegar, water, and salt in a large saucepan. (You can reuse the pot in which you blanched the carrots.) Stir to dissolve the salt and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Once it boils, remove the brine from the heat.
Pack the blanched carrots into the warm jars as tightly as they will fit. Add seasonings: 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds and 1 chile pepper per jar or 1/2 teaspoon dill seeds and 1 garlic clove per jar.
Ladle the hot brine over the carrots in the jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) of headspace. Bubble the jars well and remeasure the headspace, adding more brine if necessary. Wipe the rims with a damp cloth. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings just until you feel resistance. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the water for 5 minutes before removing. Allow the carrots to cure for 1 week before opening.
Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
◁ NORTH AFRICAN PRESERVED LEMONS
Lemons preserved in a salt brine are a staple of North African cuisine. The addition of cinnamon sticks here is a particularly Jewish touch.
A small amount of preserved lemon in a dish goes a long way, and it is a versatile ingredient. Try a small amount of diced preserved lemon in grain salads, pasta dishes, with fish, in salad dressings, as well as in all your Middle Eastern–inspired tagines and stews. Preserved lemons also make an impressive edible gift.
MAKES 2 PINTS (950 ML)
6 to 7 organic lemons, divided
1 to 11/2 cups (128 to 192 g) kosher salt
3 dried red chiles
2 cinnamon sticks
Sterilize a quart (950 ml) jar by filling it with boiling water, draining it, and allowing it to air-dry.
Cut a deep X into the tops of 4 lemons, but do not cut through the bottom. Place 1 tablespoon (8 g) salt inside each lemon.
Place a layer of kosher salt at the bottom of the jar, about 1 tablespoon (8 g). Place the first lemon in the jar and press down on it with the end of a wooden spoon to flatten it and release the juice. Layer 1/4 cup (32 g) of salt around the lemon. Repeat with the remaining 3 cut lemons.
Juice the 2 uncut lemons and add the juice to the jar. The lemons in the jar should be submerged in a mixture of salt and lemon juice. If they are not, add another 1/4 cup (32 g) of salt and the juice of an additional lemon. Slip the chiles and cinnamon sticks into the jar.
Cover the jar and store in a cool, dark place for 4 weeks, shaking several times a week to distribute the salt.
After 1 month, the lemon rinds should be soft and pliable. Remove the lemons from the jar and rinse off the excess salt. Place 2 lemons in each jar with some of the brine. Store the jars in the refrigerator, where they will keep for 6 months. To use, scrape off the flesh and use the rind only.