aglianico / ahg-lee-AH-ni-ko / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: southern Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: smoke, leather, mineral, black fruit, dark chocolate, coffee
Aglianico makes some of the most interesting and complex red wines of southern Italy, namely in the appellations of Taurasi and aglianico del Vulture. Generally bold and dry, they are substantially tannic, and are sophisticated for the money.
albariño / al-bah-REEN-yo / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Galicia, Spain
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: flowers, peaches, citrus
The albariño grape makes Spain’s best white wines. Albariños have a unique combination of crisp acidity and a lightly creamy mouthfeel, and are worth seeking out as they are generally terrific values. Most Spanish wine is labeled with the place-name, but wines made from albariño are named after the grape.
Amarone / am-ah-RO-nee / type of wine / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Veneto, Italy
GRAPES: corvina, rondinella, molinara, and negrara
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dark chocolate, jammy black fruits, fig, raisin, earth
Amarone is a very special wine, made only in the Valpolicella appellation of northern Italy, near Venice. Amarone is made with the same grapes as regular Valpolicella reds, but after an extended harvest, extra-ripe grapes are allowed to dry for three or four months, further concentrating their sugar before pressing. This unique process is called recioto. The resulting wines have a rich, lush texture and high alcohol. Flavors are bold, concentrated, and chocolate-like.
arneis / ahr-NAYZ / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Piedmont, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: pear, almond, apricot
Arneis means “little rascal” in Italian. The grape is difficult to grow, and thus not found often outside of its home in northern Italy. It creates dry, refreshing, elegant wines.
Bandol / ban-DOLL / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Provence, France
GRAPES: mostly mourvèdre, with a handful of other varieties permitted, namely cinsault and grenache
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: leather, earth, spice, cinnamon
Considered by many as one of the finest appellations in the southernmost part of France, Bandol is best known for its deliciously dry rosés. The region also produces beautiful red wines of depth, power, and character. Like the sun-drenched landscape, the flavors of Bandol wines can be rugged and wild.
Banyuls / ban-YULES / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Languedoc-Roussillon, France
GRAPES: predominantly grenache
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: coffee, chocolate, nuts, tea
A sweet fortified wine, Banyuls is lighter and easier to drink than many dessert wines. Its intriguing flavors make it perfect to drink solo, though it is also a good partner for chocolate. For more detail on Banyuls, see page 153.
Barbaresco / bar-bah-RESK-oh / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Piedmont, Italy
GRAPE: nebbiolo
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: tar, rose petals, earth, chocolate, fig, violets, licorice
Barbaresco and Barolo are the queen and king (respectively) of Piedmontese red wines. Both appellations make wine exclusively from the elusive nebbiolo grape, and the resulting wines have similar flavors. Both are aristocratic, tannic wines that are built to last for many years. Barbaresco is considered the more feminine tasting of the two—with a slightly more elegant texture that’s not quite as formidable as the more masculine Barolo. Barolo also has longer aging requirements before it can be released.
barbera / bar-BEAR-ah / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Piedmont, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: blackberry, black cherry, plum
Barbera makes incredibly juicy, fresh, and food-friendly wines, thanks to the grape’s naturally high acidity. The best examples of barbera are grown in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, in the towns of Alba and Asti, where you’ll find them appropriately dubbed barbera d’Alba and barbera d’Asti.
Barolo / bah-RO-lo / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Piedmont, Italy
GRAPE: nebbiolo
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: tar, rose petals, earth, chocolate, fig, violets, licorice
Barolo is the undeniable king of Northern Italian red wines. Hugely tannic and intoxicatingly aromatic (usually only after many years of bottle aging), these wines are considered some of the most special and interesting in the world. Some producers are now trying to make Barolo that has more upfront fruit flavor and less tannin, so that consumers don’t have to wait twenty years to experience what the wine is all about. But the best Barolos (just like their sister wine, Barbaresco) need time to reach their full potential.
Beaujolais / bo-jho-LAY / appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: France
GRAPE: gamay
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: strawberry, raspberry, cherry, rose petal, earth
The large Beaujolais appellation lies just south of Burgundy, but is a world apart from its more esteemed northern neighbor. Most Beaujolais is simple, inexpensive, fruity wine meant to be consumed very young (especially in the case of Beaujolais nouveau—a special category of wine released just weeks after harvest). However, the singular grape of this region (gamay), given the right terroir and quality-minded viticulture and vinification, can produce some beautiful wines with a complex aromatic profile that are a bargain for the price. For more details on Beaujolais and an in-depth explanation of the difference between cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais nouveau, see page 59.
Bordeaux: red / bor-DOE / appellation / $–$$$$
LOCATION: France
GRAPES: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot, malbec
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: plum, currant, black fruit, mint, eucalyptus, green pepper, tobacco, cedar, coffee, vanilla, mineral, spice
Although the word Bordeaux may conjure up images of some of the world’s most highly prized red wines, many good values can be found here too. Bordeaux makes a lot of wine—in fact, it’s the largest fine-wine region in the world. Most red wines are made with either a substantial amount of cabernet sauvignon plus the addition of some merlot and/or cabernet franc, or a substantial amount of merlot, plus the addition of some cabernet sauvignon and/ or cabernet franc. For more details on cabernet sauvignon–based Bordeaux, see page 112, and for more information on merlot–based Bordeaux wines, see page 114.
Bordeaux: white / bor-DOE / appellation / $–$$$
LOCATION: France
GRAPES: sauvignon blanc, semillon, and sometimes a small amount of muscadelle
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: grapefruit, lemon, hay, honey, mineral
Most white Bordeaux is a delicious blend of crisp sauvignon blanc and creamy semillon. There are good, lemony-flavored values to be had with the simplest wines of the appellation, and also extremely elegant, mineral-driven versions that cost quite a bit more. For more details on white Bordeaux, see page 98.
brunello di Montalcino / brew-NELL-oh dee mon-tall-CHEE-no / grape and appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPE: brunello (a sangiovese clone)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dark cherry, earth, violets, chocolate
Brunello, the nickname for the especially dark, rich sangiovese clone that grows in the town of Montepulciano, creates one of the most respected and lasting red wines in Italy. Big, powerful, and tannic, they age very well in bottle. For more details on brunello di Montalcino, see page 116.
Burgundy: red / BUR-gun-dee / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: France
GRAPE: pinot noir
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: raspberry, cherry, earth, mushroom, game, rose, peony, violet, ginger, licorice
Expect to pay a lot to experience the Burgundy that legends are made of. The red wines from this tiny strip of land come in many quality levels, but it is only at the very top echelon that one can perhaps begin to see for oneself what all the hype is about. Intriguing aromatics, sensual texture, and captivating complexity all seduce in this region’s best red wines, made exclusively from pinot noir. For more details on pinot noir from Burgundy, see page 108.
Burgundy: white / BUR-gun-dee / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: France
GRAPE: chardonnay
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, apple, peach, vanilla, hazelnut, mineral, white flowers, toast, butter, butterscotch, caramel
Burgundy might be small in size, but it has earned a colossal reputation, for both red and white wines. Burgundy has a complex system of nesting appellations, ranging from the all-encompassing Bourgogne Blanc (meaning the grapes can come from anywhere in Burgundy) to subregions like Chablis and the Côte d’Or, which get more and more specific. Eventually, Burgundy even classifies wines down to particular vineyards (like Montrachet—a single vineyard site considered to produce the best white wine in all of France, perhaps in all of the world). All whites are made exclusively from chardonnay and, when they are good, are considered the pinnacle of what the grape can achieve. The best are lush but with a racy streak of acidity that keeps them elegant. Graceful, profound, and complex, they are made in minute quantities, and fetch extremely high prices. For more details on chardonnay from Burgundy, see page 101.
cabernet franc / cab-ur-NAY FRONK / grape / $$–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Loire Valley, France; Bordeaux, France
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: raspberry, tobacco, green pepper, coffee, violets
Rarely bottled on its own outside of the Loire Valley in France, this grape is more famously blended with cabernet sauvignon and/or merlot (it is said to contribute finesse and perfume). The best Loire Valley appellations to look for include Chinon, Anjou, and Saumur, where in addition to red wine, cabernet franc is the main component of some delicious rosé.
cabernet sauvignon / cab-ur-NAY so-vin-YAWN / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Bordeaux, France; Napa, California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black currant, blackberry, cedar, mint, pencil lead, leather, eucalyptus
Cabernet sauvignon, the world’s most popular and esteemed red grape, makes wines of vastly varying quality levels and styles and is successfully cultivated in many winemaking regions around the globe. Thick-skinned berries create wines with lots of color and tannin. It is often found blended with merlot and/or cabernet franc (both thought to help soften cabernet sauvignon’s potentially hard edges). The best examples age very well in bottle. For more details on cabernet sauvignon, see page 111.
carménère / car-men-YARE / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Chile
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: cherry, smoke, earth, chocolate
Originally from Bordeaux, France, but relatively obscure there today, carménère is now found all over Chile, where it can make easy-drinking wines of good value.
cava / KAH-vah / type of wine / $–$$
LOCATION: Spain
GRAPES: parellada, macabeo, xarel-lo, chardonnay
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, green apple, toast, earth
Cava can come from all over Spain, but most of it is made in the Penedès region, near Barcelona. One of the world’s best wine bargains, Spain’s sparkling wine is generally simple, straightforward, and super-tasty for the price. For more details on cava, see page 40.
Chablis / sha-BLEE / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Burgundy, France
GRAPE: chardonnay
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, chalk, gunflint
Chablis, the very northernmost tip of Burgundy, produces lean, lithe versions of chardonnay. These wines have a bold shock of acidity and a signature mineral component. For more details on Chablis, see page 101.
Champagne / sham-PAIN / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: northern France
GRAPES: chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, apple, toast, yeast, chalk, vanilla, nuts, mushroom
Champagne is the world’s most famous sparkling wine. It is made from chardonnay, pinot noir, or pinot meunier (or most likely, a blend of the three). Growing grapes and making the wine destined to become Champagne is extremely labor-intensive, and as a result, most Champagne is expensive. Both white and rosé versions are made, and although most Champagne is very dry, there are sweeter versions. For more details on Champagne, see page 38.
chardonnay / shar-doe-NAY / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Champagne, France; Burgundy, France; Chablis, France; California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: citrus, vanilla, apple, butter
Chardonnay is undeniably the world’s most popular white grape. It grows well around the world and creates a wide range of styles—Chardonnay can be light and tangy or rich and creamy, it can taste like lemon and minerals or lush tropical fruit and oak, and it can cost five dollars or five hundred. For more details on chardonnay, see page 101.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape / sha-toe-NOOF doo POP / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: southern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, muscardin, counoise, vaccarèse, terret noir, clairette, bourboulenc, roussanne, picpoul, picardan
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: red fruit, spice, herbes de Provence, bacon, earth, game, meat, tar, leather
Famously, there are actually thirteen grape varieties permitted in the prestigious southern Rhône Valley appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. However, most producers use only a few, and some make wines exclusively from the major grape of the region, grenache. The wines are dense and serious, with big, gamy, earthy flavors that are heavenly with rustic Provençal food. Although rare, there are also some incredibly complex white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, made from a blend of roussanne and marsanne.
chenin blanc / SHEN-in BLOHNK / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Loire Valley, France
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: pear, quince, melon, apricot, honey
Chenin blanc makes simple, fresh white wines in many parts of California and all over South Africa (where it is known as steen). But the grape can achieve spectacular brilliance in the Loire Valley appellations of Savennières, Vouvray, and Saumur, where it is made into still wines that range from bone-dry to very sweet; it is even used to make some stellar sparkling wines.
Chianti / kee-AHN-tee / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPES: primarily sangiovese, with the potential addition of canaiolo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, trebbiano, and malvasia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dried cherry, dusty earth, tobacco, cedar, smoke, leather, iron, orange peel
Chianti is Italy’s most popular wine, and the good news is that quality continues to improve in this ancient region. There are inexpensive, super-simple versions available, but Chianti starts getting a lot more interesting and aromatic in the versions that cost around fifty dollars. For more details on Chianti, see page 117.
Chinon / shee-NON / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
GRAPE: cabernet franc
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: raspberry, violet, cassis, granite, iron
The appellation of Chinon (and its lesser known sister appellations of Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil) produces light, fragrant red wines made exclusively from the cabernet franc grape.
Cornas / core-NAS / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: northern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPE: syrah
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: burnt fruit, earth, spice, leather, pepper
Cornas is a massively tannic, bold red wine made exclusively from syrah. The appellation is not as prestigious as its famous neighbors Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, but Cornas bottlings are considerably less expensive and generally considered a terrific value if you’re looking for staunch, interesting French syrah.
cortese / core-TAY-say / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Piedmont, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: pear, lime
Cortese makes clean, elegant wines, most notably from around the town of Gavi in Piedmont, Italy, with a wine called cortese di Gavi.
Côte Rôtie / COAT ro-TEE / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: northern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: syrah, plus a small amount of viognier
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: meat, pepper, black fruit, smoke, mineral, bacon
Côte Rôtie is a tiny but eminent appellation producing some of the best examples of syrah on the planet. Here, the syrah grapevine clings to menacingly steep granite hillsides—the resulting wines showcase syrah’s animalistic, meaty side, but are minerally and elegant at the same time. Vintners are allowed to add a very small amount of viognier (a white grape) to the blend, which can heighten aromatics.
Côtes du Rhône / COAT doo ROAN / appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: southern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: juicy red and black fruit, spice, earth
There are red, white, and rosé wines made in this massive southern Rhône appellation, but the reds are the real stars. Côtes du Rhône reds provide great value for those looking to find affordable, easygoing, food-friendly wines with character.
Croze-Hermitage / KROZ AIR-me-taj / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: northern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: syrah, with roussanne and marsanne
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: leather, meat, black cherry, earth
This appellation surrounds its more esteemed big brother, Hermitage. Though the wines are not as special, good values can be had.
dolcetto / doll-CHET-oh / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Piedmont, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black cherry, licorice, prune
Curiously, the “little sweet one” typically finishes with a distinctively bitter almond taste. The best dolcetto is grown around the Piedmont towns of Alba and Asti, where it makes wines called dolcetto d’Alba and dolcetto d’Asti. Low acidity limits the life span of wines made from this grape—most are meant to be imbibed within a year or two of harvest.
falanghina / fal-ahn-GEE-nah / grape / $$
HAPPIEST HOME: Campania, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: apple, citrus, mineral
Crisply acidic, but full-bodied, sometimes with an almost oily texture, wines made from falanghina have a lot of personality for the price. Look for falanghina grown in the appellation of Sannio, in the Campania region of southern Italy.
Gavi / GAH-vee / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Piedmont, Italy
GRAPE: cortese
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, green apple, white flowers, honeydew melon
Gavi’s high acid and light body make for a dry, vibrant, and elegant wine that is delicious with seafood. Some consider it one of Italy’s best white wines.
gewürztraminer / gah-VERT-strah-mee-ner / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Alsace, France; Germany; Austria
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: rose petals, lychee, honeysuckle, peach
Gewürztraminer creates wines that are intensely and distinctively aromatic and also extremely full-bodied. It is taken most seriously in Alsace, France.
Gigondas / JHEE-gone-das / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: southern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: primarily grenache, with lesser amounts of syrah and mourvèdre
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: earth, leather, berries, spice
Gigondas can be charming in a rustic, honest way. Bright berry flavors meld beautifully with earth and spice to create wines that are interesting, especially for their typically modest prices.
grenache / gren-OSH / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: southern France; Spain; Australia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: red fruit, candied fruit, white pepper
Because grenache (called garnacha in Spain) tends to lack color, acid, and tannin, it is often blended with other grapes—principally syrah. The grape achieves its greatest potential in the wines of the southern Rhône Valley, specifically Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where it is one of thirteen permitted varieties, but typically comprises 80 to 100 percent of the wine. Grenache is also one of the two principal grapes in Spain’s red Rioja wines, and makes fabulous rosés all over Spain and southern France. In addition, grenache is the main grape in many dessert wines, most notably Banyuls.
grüner veltliner / GROO-ner velt-LEE-ner / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Austria
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: exotic tropical fruit, white pepper
Naturally high acidity creates crisp, tangy wines that are typically complex for the price. Grüner, as it is affectionately abbreviated, is the signature grape of Austria, accounting for almost half of the country’s vineyard plantings.
Hermitage / AIR-me-taj / appellation / $–$$$
LOCATION: northern Rhône Valley, France
GRAPES: predominantly syrah, possibly with small amounts of roussanne and marsanne
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: leather, meat, smoke, bacon, blackberry, black cherry, earth, granite
Hermitage and its neighboring appellation Côte Rôtie are considered the two most prestigious red wines of the northern Rhône Valley. Both are powerful, complex wines, with a meaty syrah core, but Hermitage is considered the more rugged and manly of the two. Most Hermitage is relatively expensive; Croze-Hermitage (a larger appellation surrounding the small hill of Hermitage) from a reliable producer can be a good alternative.
ice wine / type of wine / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Austria, Germany, Canada
GRAPES: riesling, vidal blanc, and cabernet franc are the most popular
Ice wine (eiswein in Germany and icewine in Canada) is a dessert wine made from grapes that have been left to freeze on the vine long after harvest. The water in the grapes freezes, but not the sugars or acids. When pressed, the juice is hauntingly sweet and concentrated. Only a few places have the right climactic conditions to make ice wine (Austria, Germany, and Canada have the most luck), and when the grapes are pressed, minute quantities of juice come out. Thus, ice wine is typically very expensive.
Jumilla / hoo-MEE-lah / appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: Spain
GRAPES: mostly mourvèdre
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: blackberry, black cherry, plum, spice, mineral
Jumilla reds are full-bodied, with jam-like flavors of black fruits and plums and a slight mineral edge. Good examples can be real values, providing a lot of character for the money.
Madeira / mah-DEER-ah / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Madeira, Portugal
GRAPES: bual, malmsey, sercial, verdelho, tinta negra mole
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: toffee, caramel, burnt sugar, roasted nuts, orange peel
Like Port, Madeira is a fortified wine, although the styles of Madeira range from bracingly dry to very sweet. All have a toffee- and caramel-like flavor and naturally high acidity that keeps them refreshing regardless of the sugar levels. They are essentially indestructible once opened, since they’ve already been oxidized through their labor-intensive aging process. For more details on Madeira, see page 151.
malbec / mal-BECK / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Argentina; Cahors, France
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: plum, raisin, violets
Technically, malbec is one of the five grapes permitted in red Bordeaux. However, it has never been an important grape there and is rarely seen in modern blends. Instead, it has found a new home in Argentina, where it has become the predominant red varietal and is taken more seriously than it ever was in Bordeaux. The grape provides deep color, substantial tannin, and a juicy fruit flavor. Many are good values.
merlot / mer-LOW / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Bordeaux, France; Napa, California; Washington state
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: berries, plum
Merlot is one of the five permitted grape varieties in red Bordeaux and is the most widely planted grape in that region. Although the grape is extremely popular all over the world, it makes wines of the highest quality in the Bordeaux regions of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. As in those appellations, merlot from other parts of the world is often blended with the more structured and tannic cabernet sauvignon (and/or cabernet franc). Inexpensive merlot is rarely exceptional. For more details on merlot, see page 114.
montepulciano d’Abruzzo / mon-teh-pull-chee-AH-no dee ah-BROOT-zo / grape and appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: Abruzzo, Italy
GRAPES: montepulciano, sangiovese
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: blackberries, spice, pepper
The montepulciano grape, grown in the Abruzzo region of southern Italy, creates dry, full-bodied wines full of spice and tannin.
morellino di Scansano / more-ah-LEE-no dee scahn-SAH-no / grape and appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPE: morellino (a sangiovese clone)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: bright cherry, earth
The town of Scansano makes some beautifully bright, youthful, tart cherry versions of the sangiovese grape (nicknamed morellino in this region). Many are good values. For more details on morellino di Scansano, see page 117.
moscato d’Asti / moe-SCAH-toe dee AH-stee / grape and appellation / $$
LOCATION: Piedmont, Italy
GRAPE: moscato (muscat)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: peach, melon, white flowers
The deliciously fruity and floral grape moscato makes sparkling wines all over the town of Asti. Much of it is destined to become semisweet bulk wine labeled simply Asti and commonly known as Asti Spumante. However, some moscato has a higher calling. Wines labeled moscato d’Asti are considered the more refined sister of Asti. These wines are also semisweet and intoxicatingly floral and fruity, but have less pressure (fewer bubbles), less alcohol, and are more delicate and elegant.
mourvèdre / more-VED-rah / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: southern France, Spain, Australia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: jammy black fruit, prune, earth
Mouvèdre likes it hot; the grape needs intense heat to ripen properly. Rarely bottled alone, it provides body and deep, jam-like fruit flavors to blends made with other grapes (most often grenache and syrah). You can find it in many wines of southern France, most important, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône, and Bandol. (In Bandol, mourvèdre accounts for at least 50 percent of the blends in both red and rosé wines.) In Spain, it is known as monastrell and is found all over the country but makes its best wines in the region of Jumilla.
Muscadet / MOOSE-kah-day / appellation / $$
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
GRAPE: melon de Bourgogne
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: lemon, salt, mineral
Considered by many as the quintessential oyster wine, Muscadet has a light body, crisp acidity, and is generally bone-dry and delicate.
nebbiolo / neb-ee-OH-low / grape / $$$–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Piedmont, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: tar, rose petal, wild herbs, truffles
Rarely found outside of the Piedmont region of northern Italy (because it is so difficult to grow), nebbiolo is the lone variety used to produce two of Italy’s most distinguished wines—Barolo and Barbaresco—from neighboring villages. Powerfully tannic, most nebbiolo needs plenty of time in the bottle to soften. (It is often recommended that you wait twenty years or more before popping the cork on some of the best Barolos and Barbarescos.) After years of aging, these wines can be some of the most interesting and aromatically complex wines in the world—with distinctive aromas of rose petals and tar.
negroamaro / nehg-ro-ah-MAH-ro / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Puglia, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black fruit, dried herbs, earth, leather
Negro (“black”) and amaro (“bitter”) combine to create the aptly named grape, which tends to have a rustic, bitter quality to its black fruit flavor and is often found blended with other Italian varieties. It is grown all over southern Italy, but most noted in wines from the appellation of Salice Salentino in the Apulia region (the heel of the boot). The best wines are good values and can be outstanding partners to equally humble Mediterranean foods.
nero d’Avola / NEH-ro dee AH-vo-lah / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Sicily, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: blackberry jam, earth, pepper
The grape nero d’Avola was named after the town of Avola, on the island of Sicily, where it grows best. Also known as calabrese, this grape produces full-bodied, rustically charming, and inexpensive red wines.
petite sirah / peh-TEET sih-RAH / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: blackberry, plum, blueberry
Petite sirah produces a tannic, intensely inky colored wine. It can make serious wines on its own but is not hugely popular. The grape is often blended with zinfandel, adding structure and complexity to zin’s tendency toward overripe flabbiness. see page 121 for details on how petite sirah and syrah are related.
petit verdot / peh-TEET vair-DOE / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Bordeaux, France; California; Australia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black fruit, leather, tar, molasses
Hardly ever found as a stand-alone varietal, petit verdot is principally used (very judiciously I might add) as a blending grape; it adds tannin, color, and a dark, rustic element to more refined grapes.
pinotage / PEE-no-TAJ / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: South Africa
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: meat, smoke, red fruit
Pinotage is a crossing (or cross-pollination) of cinsault and pinot noir. It was created by a professor in 1925 in South Africa, who was attempting to create a new variety that would potentially capture the best attributes from both parent grapes—he wanted cinsault’s heat tolerance and productivity and pinot noir’s more refined taste, aroma, and texture. The resulting grape has had mixed reviews for nearly a century. Occasionally it makes serious, complex wines, but many times wines made from the grape turn out funky—with overly animal odors or strange smells of paint or banana.
pinot blanc / PEE-no BLOHNK / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Germany, Austria, northern Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: apple, almond
Known as weissburgunder in Germany and Austria and pinot bianco in Italy, this grape produces fairly neutral white wines with low aromatics and high acidity.
pinot grigio / PEE-no GREE-jo / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: northern Italy; Alsace, France; Oregon
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: apple, pear, lemon, wildflowers
Although Italy churns out a great deal of lackluster pinot grigio, some quality-minded producers make crisp, beautiful wines, especially from the Friuli region. Alsace, France, treats the grape most seriously; there, the white wines made with pinot gris (the French name for the same grape) achieve more richness and body. Oregon also makes some delicious wines from this grape, in the French style.
See pinot grigio.
pinot meunier / PEE-no moon-YAY / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Champagne, France
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: red fruits
Rarely seen as a stand-alone varietal, pinot meunier is famous as one of the three permitted grape varieties in Champagne, France. (Chardonnay and pinot noir are the other two.) Pinot meunier is said to add fruitiness and body to the blend. It is the least regal of the three grapes, but the easiest to grow—and curiously, although many Champagne producers like to brag about how little pinot meunier is in their blend, it remains the number-one planted varietal in the region.
pinot noir / PEE-no NWHAR / grape / $$–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Burgundy, France; Champagne, France; Oregon; California; New Zealand; Germany
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: raspberry, cherry, earth, mushroom, rose petal
Pinot noir is one finicky (and costly) grape to grow, but that doesn’t diminish its popularity the world over. Pinot noir’s allure lies in its captivating aromatics and smooth, silky texture. Pinot, as it is often abbreviated, is a thin-skinned grape, and thus it creates wines that are typically low in tannin and softer in color than many other red wines. The grape’s spiritual home is Burgundy, France, and it alone is the grape responsible for the highly esteemed and coveted red wines of the region. It is one of the three grapes permitted in Champagne, but is rarely blended with other grapes outside of that region. For more details on pinot noir, see page 108.
Port / appellation / $–$$$$
LOCATION: Duoro Valley, Portugal
GRAPES: tinta barroca, tinta cão, tinta roriz (tempranillo), touriga francesa, touriga nacional
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: cherry, chocolate, raisin, plums, pepper (bottle-aged Port); toffee, caramel, nuts, brown sugar (barrel-aged Port)
Port is a sweet fortified wine made exclusively in the Duoro Valley of Portugal. More than one hundred grape varieties are allowed in the production of Port, but typically only the five above are used for making fine wine. There are two main types of Port—bottle-aged Port, which is red, with flavors of chocolate and cherries, and barrel-aged Port, which is aged in large barrels and exposed to oxygen throughout the winemaking process, thus taking on a brown color and flavors of toffee and nuts. Both are made in a wide range of styles and quality levels. The most famous type of Port is vintage Port, a type of bottle-aged Port that is only made in stellar years, from the very finest Port grapes. Vintage Port is capable of aging for decades. For more information on both vintage and barrel-aged Port, see page 152.
Pouilly Fumé / pwee foo-MAY / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
GRAPE: sauvignon blanc
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: grapefruit, lemon, flint, mineral
The Pouilly Fumé appellation, neighbor to Sancerre, lies at the very eastern tip of the Loire Valley in France. The dry, elegant wines are similar in flavor to Sancerre, with high acidity and a soulful mineral character.
primitivo / prih-mih-TEE-voe / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: southern Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: Jam-like black and red fruit, clove, spice
DNA tests have confirmed that southern Italy’s primitivo grape is indeed the genetic twin to zinfandel, a grape many thought was indigenous to California. While Italy’s version is slightly more coarse and rustic, primitivo has all the ripe, jammy fruit flavors and spice of the best zinfandels, and usually offers very good value for the money.
Priorat / PREE-oh-rot / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Spain
GRAPES: most notably grenache, with carignan, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and syrah
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black fruit, tar, mineral
Priorat is a tiny area known for producing very high-quality wines of power and intensity. Special slate soils on steep hillsides and an inhospitable climate make for vines that struggle, and in return create wines that showcase bold flavor and a deep, dark mineral core.
prosecco / pro-SECK-oh / type of wine / $–$$
LOCATION: northern Italy
GRAPE: glera (formerly known as prosecco)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: peaches, melon, apricot, honeysuckle
Fresh, fruity, and delightfully affordable, prosecco is a terrific alternative to other more expensive sparkling wines—but be careful not to expect too much. These wines are meant to be simple and easy to drink; they don’t claim the depth and seriousness of their French cousins.
Ribera del Duero / ree-BEAR-ah del DWAIR-oh / appellation / $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Spain
GRAPES: tinto fino (tempranillo)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: chocolate, plum, blackberry, licorice, leather
Tempranillo grown in this unforgiving continental climate in the middle of Spain has evolved to create more powerful, structured wines than it does in Rioja. Generally tannin is abundant, but in the best wines, they come off as velvety and ripe. Ribera del Duero wines are considered some of the best in Spain.
riesling / REES-ling / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Germany; Alsace, France; Austria; Australia; Washington state
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: apple, peach, pear, lime, rose petal, gunflint, diesel, steel
Powerfully and uniquely aromatic (no other grape smells like flowers and gasoline), riesling can make show-stopping white wines. Naturally high in acidity, the best versions are capable of aging for decades. Riesling loves cold weather and thrives in Germany, Austria, and the Alsace region of France. Washington state is producing wines of good value from the grape, and Australia makes some stellar examples as well. For more details on riesling, see page 105.
Rioja / ree-OH-ha / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Spain
GRAPES: predominantly tempranillo and grenache
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: leather, dusty earth, mushroom, berries, oak, vanilla
Spain’s most famous appellation, Rioja makes red, white, and rosé wines. The best reds are elegant and earthy, and aged longer than any other Spanish wines before release.
Rosso di Montalcino / ROW-so dee mon-tall-CHEE-no / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPE: sangiovese
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dark cherry, plum, chocolate, earth
Rosso di Montalcino is considered the little sister of brunello di Montalcino. Rosso wines are typically made with younger grapes from less desirable vineyards, the yields are not as restricted, and winemaking and aging are not as strictly regulated. That said, Rosso di Montalcino can be a great value for someone looking for the flavor of brunello di Montalcino without the price tag. In poor vintages especially, they can be quite good, since some brunello producers forgo making brunello altogether and put those grapes into a Rosso di Montalcino wine those years. For more details on Rosso di Montalcino, see page 117.
roussanne / rue-SAHN / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Rhône Valley, France
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: wildflowers, herbs, tea
Rarely bottled solo, roussanne is a French grape prized for its very high acidity and aromatics. It is considered the perfect blending partner to another white grape of the Rhône, marsanne, which can be flabby and lifeless without the addition of roussanne’s vivacity. Find it in the white Rhône wines of Saint-Joseph, Hermitage, and Croze-Hermitage, as well as white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Saint-Émilion / saint eh-MEEL-ee-on / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Bordeaux, France
GRAPES: predominantly merlot, usually with the addition of cabernet sauvignon, and/or cabernet franc
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: plum, black fruit, vanilla, earth
Saint-Émilion is considered one of the best places to grow merlot. There are wines of all prices and quality levels made here, and the best showcase the excellence this grape can achieve, when it is taken seriously and given the right environment.
Sancerre / sahn-SAIR / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
GRAPE: sauvignon blanc
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: grapefruit, gooseberries, chalk, wet rocks
Bone-dry and minerally, Sancerre is one of the most sophisticated versions of sauvignon blanc. These wines are extremely elegant and refined, and rarely cost more than forty dollars, even for the best bottles.
sangiovese / san-gee-oh-VAZE-ee / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Tuscany, Italy
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dried cherry, herbs, dusty earth
Sangiovese is the quintessential Italian grape. It is grown all over the country and makes wines in a wide variety of prices and styles. The best examples come from the Tuscan appellations of Chianti, brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and morellino di Scansano. There are also excellent, more flashy, and fruit-forward versions of sangiovese grown in Tuscany that don’t fit into traditional winemaking regimes (see Rule Breakers, page 84). For more details on sangiovese, see page 116.
Sauternes / saw-TERN / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Bordeaux, France
GRAPES: sauvignon blanc, semillon
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: honey, tea, apricot
Opulent and long-lived, the best dessert wines from the Bordeaux appellation of Sauternes taste like liquid sunshine. These special wines are created only in years when Botrytis cinerea, “the noble rot” (see page 151), successfully attacks and dehydrates ripe grape bunches. For more details on Sauternes, see page 151.
sauvignon blanc / so-vin-YAWN BLOHNK / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Loire Valley, France; Bordeaux, France; New Zealand; South Africa; California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: grapefruit, fresh cut grass, asparagus, green beans, peas, herbs (basil, oregano), hay, tropical fruit
Sauvignon blanc’s aggressively pungent aromatics and tangy acidity make it unique. It is grown with success all over the world, but the best areas are listed above. For more details on sauvignon blanc, see page 98.
semillon / sem-ee-YAWN / grape / $$–$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Bordeaux, France; Australia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: honey, wax, lanolin, fig
Semillon is most commonly found blended with sauvignon blanc in both the dry and sweet dessert wines of Bordeaux, France (most notably in the appellations of Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sauternes, and Barsac). Semillon adds complexity to sauvignon blanc via aromatics and also texturally—semillon has a beautiful, almost oily mouthfeel and fuller body. The grape can be found (to a much lesser extent) in Australia, where it makes some wonderful dry and dessert wines.
Sherry / SHARE-ee / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: southern Spain
GRAPES: palomino, muscat pedro ximénez
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: nuts, fig, molasses
Sherry is a very special fortified wine made only in the Jerez region of Spain. Styles range from bone-dry to sweet.
Soave / SWAH-vay / appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: northern Italy
GRAPES: predominantly garganega, with chardonnay, pinot bianco, and trebbiano di Soave
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: citrus, pear, mineral
Soave is a crisp, neutral Italian white. Many are nothing special, but high-quality producers are making dry, steely versions that can be excellent values. Look for wines labeled “Soave Classico” or “Soave Classico Superiore” as they will have more depth and elegance than most of the bulk wine labeled simply “Soave.”
syrah/shiraz / sih-RAH & shi-RAHZ / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Rhône Valley, France; Australia; California; Washington state
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: black fruit, pepper, jammed fruit, meat, bacon, leather
Syrah makes substantial, powerful, and complex wines with lots of tannin and color. Syrah grown in cool climates tends to have more peppery, leathery flavors whereas those grown in warmer climates ooze jammy, brambly fruit flavors.
Taurasi / tour-AH-zee / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: southern Italy
GRAPE: aglianico
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dark chocolate, prune, mineral, leather, tar
Taurasi is the home of southern Italy’s most respected red wines. Not only are they extremely interesting to smell and taste—with deep, dark, brooding flavors—but their substantial tannin makes them long-lived.
tawny Port / TAW-nee port /
See Port.
tempranillo / tem-prah-NEE-yo / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: all over Spain
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: berries, plum, tobacco, leather, earth
Tempranillo is to Spain what sangiovese is to Italy—the quintessential red grape. It grows all over the country, but is most famous as a blending partner with grenache in the wines of Rioja and in the serious, staunch wines of Ribera del Duero.
Tokaji Aszú / toe-KY ah-ZOO / type of wine/ $$$–$$$$
LOCATION: Hungary
GRAPES: furmint, hárslevelú´, muscat, orémus
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: honey, tea, dried apricot, orange peel, peach
Lusciously sweet (but refreshingly tangy) Hungarian wine made from grapes affected with the “noble rot” (see page 151), Tokaji Aszú has a rich history and is considered one of the world’s most beautiful, special wines. For more details, see page 152.
torrontés / tor-ON-tez / grape / $–$$
HAPPIEST HOME: Argentina
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: citrus, white flowers
A rising superstar in Argentina, torrontés makes wines that are highly floral, almost perfumish on the nose, which then surprise with loads of tangy citrus on the palate. Rarely expensive, torrontés offers good value for those looking for fun, interesting white wines.
Valpolicella / val-pole-ee-CHEL-ah / appellation / $–$$$
LOCATION: northern Italy
GRAPES: corvina, rondinella, molinara, negrara
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dried cherry, grape, flowers, licorice
A lot of innocuous Valpolicella exists. However, from excellent producers, these red wines can be terrific, with rich, earthy flavors, delicate texture, and nice bright acidity that screams for Italian food pairings.
vernaccia di San Gimignano / ver-NACH-ah dee san-jam-in-YAH-no / grape and appellation / $–$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPE: vernaccia
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: pear, citrus, bitter almond, chamomile
The vernaccia grape, grown in the picturesque hillside town of San Gimignano, is a tangy wine that goes well with seafood of all sorts. Vernaccia di San Gimignano has a characteristic finish that is reminiscent of bitter almond.
Vinho Verde / VEE-no VAIR-day /type of wine/ $–$$
LOCATION: Portugal
GRAPES: many are permitted, the most common and highest quality is alvarinho (albariño)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: peaches, flowers
Portugal’s most popular white wine, Vinho Verde is meant to be consumed quickly after harvest, when the wine is young and vibrant. Most Vinho Verde has a light effervescence, which is due to the small dose of carbon dioxide added to the bottle just before it is encapsulated.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano / VEE-no NO-bee-lay dee mon-teh-pull-chee-AH-no / appellation / $$–$$$
LOCATION: Tuscany, Italy
GRAPE: prugnolo gentile (a sangiovese clone)
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: dried cherry, earth, licorice, leather
The best Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is as noble tasting as its name. High acid and high tannin make for gripping wines with good aging potential.
viognier / vee-on-YAY / grape / $–$$$$
HAPPIEST HOMES: Rhône Valley, France; California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: gardenia, honeysuckle, peach, apricot, citrus
Viognier smells exotic, with potent aromas of gardenias and honeysuckle, peaches and apricots. It makes a lush, full-bodied white with high alcohol.
Vouvray / voo-VRAY / appellation / $$–$$$$
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
GRAPE: chenin blanc
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: honey, peach, mineral, earth
Vouvrays can be hard to navigate, since they range from dry to sweet and do not usually indicate anywhere on the label where on the spectrum they fall. (Vouvray fans might admit they enjoy the suspense of not knowing until they uncork the bottle.) Most have a high level of acidity and a touch of sweetness that comes across as fresh peachiness and honey.
zinfandel / ZIN-fan-del / grape / $–$$$
HAPPIEST HOME: California
DEFINING AROMAS/FLAVORS: jammy, brambly fruit, prune, raisin, chocolate, pepper, clove
Zinfandel is considered the “all-American” grape; it is most at home all over warm pockets of California. The grape makes red wines of varying quality, but no matter the origin or the price, it produces big, robust, fruit-driven wines. For more details on zinfandel, see page 119.