Corn Crêpes
(Crêpes de Maïs)
Whole ears of corn are excellent poached (not boiled) in salted water, or cooked in aluminum foil on top of the barbecue. A purée of the pulp is very elegant served with veal or lamb. (Melt sweet butter in a saucepan, add the pulp or fresh polenta, salt and pepper and simmer a few minutes, just enough for the starch to tighten and the purée to thicken into a creamy mixture.) With the pulp, one can also make excellent crêpes.
YIELD: 20 Crêpes
6 medium-sized ears of corn
½ cup (75 grams) all-purpose organic flour
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (118 milliliters) milk
½ stick (¼ cup/57 grams) melted unsalted butter
1. Hold the cleaned ear of corn in one hand and, using a sharp knife, cut through the middle of each row of kernels. The object is to open each kernel so the pulp can be “pushed” out.
2. Stand the ear straight up. Using the back (dull side) of the knife, scrape the pulp out of the opened kernels, turning the ear as you go along. You should have approximately 1½ cups (355 milliliters) of pulp. Mix all ingredients thoroughly, starting with the pulp and the flour and then adding the rest. Make the crêpes using a non-stick pan if possible. Brown on one side only and roll up. The crêpes will be very delicate and fragile to handle. Serve as soon as possible as a vegetable or as a garnish for your favorite meat.
Corn Fritters
(Beignet de Maïs)
YIELD: 24 fritters
1¼ cups all-purpose organic flour (about 6-7 ounces/170 to 200 grams)
2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1 large egg
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (237 milliliters) ice-cold water
2 cups (300 grams) corn kernels (cut from about 2 or 3 ears)
About ½ cup (118 milliliters) corn oil
1. Place the flour, baking powder, egg, salt, and water in the food processor and combine just until smooth. Add corn kernels and process for 5 to 6 seconds, just enough to break the kernels partially. Remove to a bowl. Heat up 2 large saucepans and add ¼ cup (59 milliliters) oil to each pan. When the oil is very hot, drop full tablespoons of the fritter batter (about 7 per skillet) into each skillet. The mixture will spread a little.
2. Cook over high about 2 minutes at the most on each side. Lift out and set on a tray and continue making the rest of the fritters until all the batter is used up.
Artichokes and Artichoke Hearts
(Artichauts et Fonds d’Artichauts)
Cooked artichokes can be served cold as a first course, lukewarm with hollandaise or melted butter as a vegetable, or hot stuffed with meat or other vegetables. The small young artichokes, especially the Provence or the Tuscany violet, are eaten raw with salt and butter or with a vinaigrette. When artichokes get older and turn slightly yellowish, they are used for artichoke hearts or bottoms.
WHOLE
1. A good-sized artichoke weighs about 8 ounces (227 grams). Cut the stem off with a knife, or break it at the base (this helps pull out of the heart the stringy fibers that develop in overmatured artichokes).
2. Cut off at least 1½ inches (4 centimeters) of the top.
3. Cut off about one-third of the top of each leaf. The ends are tough, bitter and thorny. The reason is also aesthetic.
4. To prevent discoloration (artichokes turn dark very fast), tie a slice of lemon to the bottom of the artichoke where the stem is cut. Restaurants that cook artichokes a day ahead use this technique to keep the bottom white until serving time. The technique is optional.
5. Place the artichoke in a large amount of boiling, salted water. Place a wet paper towel directly on top of the artichoke to keep it wet and immersed during cooking. Boil as fast as possible for 40 to 50 minutes, depending on the size. Do not cover. To test for doneness, pull out a leaf: if done, it pulls out easily. Place under cold water to cool.
6. Serve not too cold. To serve lukewarm, rewarm in hot water for 2 minutes. Drain. Spread the outside leaves at the top wide enough to slide your fingers inside and around the center leaves.
7. Pull out the central leaves; they should come out in one piece like a small funnel or cone. Now, the “choke” is exposed.
8. Using your fingers, or a teaspoon, remove the hairy choke from the cavity.
9. Replace the central leaves upside down on the opened top of the artichoke and garnish with curly parsley. Serve on a tulip napkin or directly on a plate.
HEARTS
1. The goal is to retrieve as much of the “meat” from the leaves and bottoms as possible. This is a delicate technique and takes practice. For someone not familiar with making artichoke bottoms, start with this technique. Break off each leaf high enough so that the meat remains attached to the body of the artichoke.
2. If you pull the leaf off instead of breaking it off, the lower white part of the leaf with the meat attached will come off as shown in the photograph. Be sure to fold the leaf down and pull down to break it off, leaving the meat attached to the heart.
3. When all of the heart is exposed, cut the stem, which can be peeled and cooked with the heart, and cut the center leaves of the artichoke at the level of the choke.
4. Using a vegetable peeler or a small, sharp knife, trim the remaining green from the heart. Rub with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
5. Here is another peeling method that is often used by professionals but requires training and practice. It is shown in photographs 5 to 8. The outside leaves are trimmed off the heart with a knife at greater speed than by using the method explained in steps 2 to 4. Place the blade on the side of the artichoke, the point at a slight angle facing the center of the leaves. Roll the artichoke, cutting the leaves all around without getting into the heart.
6. Trim the center leaves off at the level of the choke, as explained in step 3.
7. Using a sharp paring knife or vegetable peeler (as shown in photograph 4), trim the remaining leaves from the bottom of the heart
8. and on the top to expose the choke. Rub with lemon to prevent discoloration.
9. Combine the cooking stock ingredients (3 cups/710 milliliters water, 1 tablespoon flour, 2 tablespoons olive oil, ¼ cup/59 milliliters fresh lemon juice, and ½ teaspoon salt) thoroughly, making sure the flour is dissolved, and add the bottoms. Bring to a boil and boil gently for 20 to 25 minutes, until the bottoms are tender but still firm to the touch. Let cool in the liquid. When cold enough to handle, remove the chokes from the bottoms and place the bottoms back in the cooking liquid until ready to be used.
10. As a vegetable accompaniment to meat or fish, the artichoke heart can be cooked in pieces. About 2 inches (5 centimeters) of the stem can also be left on the heart, providing the artichoke is young enough for the stem to be tender. Trim all around the heart, as explained above, and around the stem.
11. Cut the trimmed heart into 4 pieces and remove the choke with the point of a knife. Rub with lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Cook the hearts according to instructions above.
Hollowing Out and Stuffing Artichokes
(Vider et Farcir l’Artichaut)
7 artichokes
STUFFING
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
¼ cup (59 milliliters) olive oil
⅓ cup (48 grams) chopped shallots
3 or 4 chopped garlic cloves
2 cups (120 grams) bread crumbs
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup (237 milliliters) water
1. For the artichokes: Cut about 11/4 inches (3 centimeters) off the top of the artichokes and cut off the stems. Peel the fibrous skin from the stems and reserve the centers. Rub cut parts with lemon to prevent discoloration.
2. Using scissors, cut off the top third of each artichoke leaf. These leaf tips are tough, and each has a “needle” in the center. Wash the artichokes under cool water. Bring 2 quarts (1.9 liters) of water to a boil in a stockpot. Add the artichokes, cover, bring to a boil again, and boil gently for 30 minutes. They will not be completely cooked. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water.
3. When cool enough to handle, grab the center of each artichoke and pull out the center leaves in one clump.
4. Using a spoon, remove the choke, the hairy material inside at the base. The artichokes are not yet completely cooked and may require some scraping to remove the choke.
5. The centers of the artichokes are clean.
6. Stuffing: Melt the butter and olive oil in a large skillet. When hot, add shallots, garlic cloves, and bread crumbs, and sauté, stirring almost continuously, for 4 to 5 minutes over medium to high heat, until the bread turns a nice brown color. Add pepper and salt. The base of the center leaves is tender. Cut away the tender parts and add to the stuffing.
7. Spoon the stuffing into each artichoke, placing some in the cavity and some in between the leaves. When they are stuffed, place the artichokes side by side in one layer in a saucepan. Sprinkle with olive oil, add water, and place the stems around the artichokes. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook for approximately 20 minutes. By then, most of the moisture should have evaporated and only the olive oil will remain with the gently stewing artichokes. If there is still liquid in the pan, remove the lid and continue boiling until the remaining moisture has evaporated.
8. Arrange the artichokes on a platter with the stems around. The artichokes can be served alone as a first course or as a side dish with meat or poultry.
Preparing Celery for Braising (Céleri en Branche)
When braising celery, it is important to use celery stalks with the whitest possible hearts, as they will be tender and sweeter. Braised celery can be used as an accompaniment to most roasts, sautéed meats, and poultry.
YIELD: 4 servings
2 or 3 whole celery stalks, depending on the size, as white as possible (about 2 pounds/.9 kilograms trimmed)
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
½ cup (188 milliliters) demi-glace
1. Trim the celery, keeping about 6 inches (15 centimeters) of the root and heart. Reserve the trimmings for stock or soup.
2. Using a vegetable peeler or small knife, remove most of the fiber from around the outside of the celery stalks and trim around the base. Cover the celery with cold water and half the salt, and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Drain and cool. (The cooking liquid can be used in stocks or soups.)
3. Cut each celery stalk lengthwise into fourths (for standard celery) or sixths (for larger celery).
4. Melt the butter in a large skillet. When hot, sauté the pieces of celery for about 2 minutes on each side. Add the demi-glace and remaining salt, cover, and simmer for 7 to 8 minutes, until some of the demi-glace is reduced and coats the celery. Uncover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to further reduce the demi-glace and coat the celery by rolling and turning it in the liquid.
Celeriac or Celery Root
(Céleri-rave)
Celeriac or celery root, usually available at certain times of the year, is not the root of the common stalk celery. Though it tastes like celery, it is a different plant. It is excellent cooked and also served raw in julienne with an oil and mustard sauce.
1. Peel the celeriac with a knife or a vegetable peeler.
2. Cut the celeriac in half through the root. Remove the spongy flesh in the center near the stem end. Using a knife or a mandoline, slice into ⅛-inch (3-millimeter) slices.
3. Stack a few slices together and cut into a fine julienne. To make a salad, make a mayonnaise (see page 53), but triple the amount of mustard and double the vinegar. Mix with the celeriac and add more salt and pepper. Make the salad at least one hour in advance. Serve cool, but not ice cold.
Preparing Kohlrabi
(Préparation du Chou-Rave)
Kohlrabi can be boiled, puréed, made into soup, or just sautéd raw like potatoes. When young and freshly picked, they can be eaten raw in salads.
1. Peel the kohlrabi, removing the thick, fibrous skin. The flesh should be firm and white and should not smell strong.
2. Cut the kohlrabi into ⅛-inch (3-millimiter) thick slices. You should have 5 to 6 cups (625 to 750 grams). In each of 2 skillets, heat 1½ tablespoons olive oil and 1½ teaspoons (7 grams) butter. When hot, sauté half the kohlrabi slices in each skillet over medium heat for about 15 to 20 minutes, tossing occasionally to brown somewhat uniformly. They should be tender but still firm.
Cucumber Salad
(Salade de Concombres)
Cucumbers are widely used in the United States as well as in many European countries and India. Cucumbers can be served raw as a salad, cooked or stuffed as a vegetable, or pickled to use as a condiment. However, it is raw in a summer salad (or as a salad ingredient) that cucumbers are most frequently served.
YIELD: 6 to 8 servings
3 cucumbers
1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 tablespoons sour cream
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1. Storebought cucumbers are often coated with a chemical to retard spoilage, and it is better to peel them using a vegetable peeler. You don’t have to peel the cucumber if you grow your own.
2. Cut into halves lengthwise. You may slice the cucumber with the seeds, season it and serve that way. However, it is more elegant to remove the seeds. Work the edge of a dessert spoon along the seeds, close to the flesh, making a type of incision. When you are through with one side, turn the cucumber and loosen the seeds on the other side. Finally, using the bowl of the spoon, scrape out all the seeds in one stroke.
3. Slice into ⅛-inch (3-millimeter) or ¼-inch (6-millimeter) slices. You should have about 5 cups (1 kilogram).
4. Place in a colander and sprinkle with salt. Mix well. Let the cucumber macerate for at least 1 to 2 hours at room temperature. The salt, you will discover, draws the juices from the cucumbers, making them limp, and, paradoxically, very crisp at the same time.
5. Drain, rinse under cold water and press lightly to extract excess moisture. Combine the sour cream, lemon juice, and freshly ground pepper in a bowl. Add the oil, beating with a wire whisk. Combine with the cucumber and the fresh dill. Do not use more salt. Prepared this way, the cucumbers will stay crisp for several days.
Deep Fried Zucchini
(Courgette Frite)
YIELD: 6 servings
4 medium zucchini
2 cups (120 grams) fresh bread crumbs
1 cup (170 grams) stone-ground cornmeal
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Oil for frying
1. Cut the zucchini into 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.6-centimeter) long chunks. Cut the chunks into ½-inch (1.3-centimeter) lengthwise slices. Stack the slices together, then cut them into sticks ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) thick. Combine the bread crumbs, cornmeal, and cayenne together in a shallow bowl. Mix the eggs with the flour, salt, and pepper until smooth. Dip the sticks into the egg mixture, then coat with the bread crumb mixture and drop into the oil heated to 375 degrees (191ºC). Cook for 3 to 3½ minutes. Remove to a cookie sheet lined with a wire rack. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve immediately.
Preparing Okra
(Préparation de l’Okra)
Okra is sometimes used in stew (like New Orleans gumbo or lamb stew in Africa) since the viscous juice it exudes tends to thicken sauces.
YIELD: 2 servings
1⁄2 pound (227 grams) okra
1 cup (237 milliliters) white distilled vinegar
2 quarts (2 scant liters) water
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
1. Remove the tips of okra and slice it in half and then quarters lengthwise. To eliminate some of the sliminess, place in a plastic bag and add the vinegar. Leave for 30 minutes. Remove the okra and rinse well under cold water. Bring water to a boil, add the okra, and return to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes uncovered. Strain in a colander and refresh under cold water. At serving time, heat butter in a skillet, add the okra, and sauté gently, just enough to heat through.
Roasting and Peeling Peppers
(Griller et Peler les Poivrons)
Roasted peppers can be served whole or stuffed; cut into strips and seasoned with garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil; and in salads and sandwiches.
1. Arrange 8 peppers on a broiler pan and place them under a hot broiler, no more than 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) from the heat source, turning until the peppers blister all around, from 13 to 15 minutes. Alternatively, burn the peppers directly on a gas burner until they are charred all around. Immediately place the peppers in plastic bags. Close the bag and set aside for 10 minutes. Steaming in their own heat in the plastic bag will help the peppers release their skin.
2. Remove the peppers from the bag and peel off the skin; it will come off fairly easily. Tear the peppers open carefully, scoop out the seeds, and scrape off the membranes on the inside. Use as needed.
Preparing Sugar Snap Peas
(Préparation des Pois Mange-tout)
Snap peas are one of the pleasures of spring, fresh from the garden.
1. Cut off the pointed end with your fingernail and pull. You will see the string that runs all the way up the side.
2. Pull the string the length of the pea to the stem end, and break off the stem end; pull the string on the other side of the length of the pea and remove it. The strings should be removed from both sides. Cook in boiling water for a couple of minutes, drain, toss with butter and salt and pepper, and serve.
Preparing Sea Beans
(Préparation des Pousse-Pierre)
Sea beans are also called glasswort or saltwort salicorne and grow in abundance along the coast of New England. Only the young, very tender shoots should be picked.
1. Notice that only the tender green shoots are used. For approximately 3 to 4 cups (360 to 480 grams) of sea bean sprouts, bring 3 quarts (23/4 liters) of water to a strong boil. Add the sea beans, bring the water back to the boil, and let it boil, uncovered, for approximately 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the beans to ice water to cool and stop the cooking until ready to use. Sauté in oil or butter when needed.
Shelling Fava Beans
(Écosser les Fêves)
When shelled, fava beans can be served raw as crudités or hors d’oeuvre with a bit of salt, or a little vinegar and oil.
1. Remove the beans from the pods. You will notice that even after the beans are out of the pods, there is still a shell on them.
2. With your fingernail or the point of a sharp knife, slit this skin and pull it off. See how the beans inside are more tender and delicate, and a brighter green. For a faster way, blanch the beans in boiling water for 20 seconds and transfer to cold water. Press the skin and the beans should pop out. Use as needed.
Cleaning Salad
(Préparation de la Salade)
Lettuce is one of the most delicate and delectable salad greens. Bibb, oak leaf, or Boston lettuce go well with a light oil and vinegar or a cream dressing because they are very tender and mild. Escarole, curly endive, and the like can support a stronger, mustard-garlic dressing.
1. Holding the lettuce upside down, cut around the center to remove the core and loosen the leaves. Remove the spoiled leaves.
2. The larger, tougher outside leaves should have the top and center rib removed. Only the tender pieces on both sides of the rib are used.
3. With the larger leaves removed, cut through the center rib to separate each leaf into halves.
4. Separate the small leaves of the heart and leave them whole. Wash the lettuce in a lot of cold water. Lift up from the water and place on a towel.
5. Dry the leaves gently, a few at a time, to avoid bruising.
6. Or, place in a salad dryer and spin to extract as much water as possible from the salad.
7. The lettuce should be dry and fluffy. Remember that the best dressing will be ruined if watered down by a salad not sufficiently dried. Keep refrigerated in a towel until serving time. A tender lettuce, such as Boston, is never tossed with dressing ahead of time because it becomes wilted very fast.
Braised Lettuce
(Laitues Braisées)
Boston lettuce makes a splendid and unusual cooked vegetable which goes well with veal, as well as chicken and beef. Although classically lettuce is braised with carrots, onions, and herbs, it is excellent simply boiled in water and finished with butter. One large head of lettuce will serve 2 as a garnish.
1. Remove any bruised leaves from the lettuce and wash the heads of lettuce in cold water, spreading the leaves gently under the stream of the water to remove any sand. Drop the lettuce heads into a large kettle of boiling, salted water and cover until it comes to a boil again. Uncover; if left covered, the lettuce will lose its vivid green color and turn yellowish. Place a wet paper towel on top of the lettuce; this will keep the lettuce underwater and help cook it evenly all around.
2. Let boil for 15 to 20 minutes, until the core of the lettuce feels tender to the point of a knife; it should be tender, not mushy. Immediately submerge the lettuce in iced water. When cold, remove the lettuce.
3. Be sure not to disturb the natural shape of the lettuce. Squeeze gently to extrude the excess water.
4. Cut the smaller heads into 3 equal-sized pieces. For a larger head, cut in quarters.
5. Place a piece, outside down, on the table and flatten the leafy end gently with a knife. Turn the leafy green part onto the center of the lettuce and, holding it with the point of the knife, fold the core end over it.
6. Trim the core. You should have a nice little package, slightly triangular. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Melt some butter in a large skillet. When hot, place the lettuce pieces, folded side up, one next to the other, in the skillet. Do not crowd the skillet. Cook on medium heat 4 to 6 minutes until slightly brown. Turn gently and cook 3 to 4 minutes on the other side.
7. Arrange on a serving platter, folded side down. You may coat the lettuce with a demi-glace, 1 tablespoon per lettuce, and sprinkle some butter cooked to a hazelnut color (beurre noisette) on top just before serving.
How to Prepare Endives
(Cuisson des Endives)
Belgian endives make a great salad. (Separate the leaves, pile them together, cut lengthwise into a fine julienne, then put in ice water to curl.) Endives are good cooked. They can be served plain or in their broth or with a white sauce. (Wrap a slice of ham around each head or half a head, cover with a white sauce, sprinkle with cheese, and brown under the broiler.) Cooked endives can also be sautéed in butter, covered with melted butter and chopped parsley, or they may be puréed and finished with cream and seasonings. The basic way to cook endive follows.
YIELD: 6 to 8 servings
3 pounds (1.4 kilograms) endive (medium size), approximately 12 to 15 pieces
½ tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Juice of 1 lemon (approximately ¼ cup/59 milliliters)
⅓ cup (79 milliliters) water
1. Wash and clean the root of the endive very lightly if brown and discolored. Do not cut enough to separate the leaves. Trim any discolored leaves. Rinse carefully under cold water and arrange in layers in a sturdy stainless or enameled pan.
2. Add the sugar, salt, lemon juice, and water and cover the endive with a round of parchment paper. Place a plate on top of the paper and then the regular lid on top. The paper helps the endive steam better and the weight of the plate gently presses them down into their own juices. The top lid prevents the steam from escaping during cooking. Notice that the recipe has just a bit of liquid; the endive will render liquid of its own while cooking.
3. Bring to a boil on top of the stove and either simmer on top of the stove or place in a preheated 400 degree (204°C) oven for 25 to 30 minutes. The endives should still be firm when cooked. Let cool in the broth. When cool enough to handle, remove, arrange in a terrine or bowl, pour the juices on top, cover and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.
How to Prepare Spinach
(Equeutage des Epinards)
There are two basic ways of preparing spinach: in purée, when both leaf and stem are finely ground, and left whole with just the stem removed from the leaves. A purée of spinach is usually made with a light cream sauce, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and served with fried croûtons and hard-cooked eggs. It is a very good accompaniment to a roast of veal or a roasted chicken. Spinach prepared whole is used in timbale or as a bed for poached eggs, fish, oysters, or veal. When using baby spinach, the stem is left in. It can be sautéed for a couple of minutes in a skillet with a bit of olive oil.
LEAF SPINACH (Epinards en Branches)
1 pound (454 grams) fresh spinach
¼ inch (6 millimeters) water in a large saucepan (not aluminum) with a cover
½ teaspoon salt
1. Note how the long stem runs along the underside of the spinach leaf.
2. Take hold of the leaf on both sides of the stem and pull the stem out. The stems can be used in soups or mixed with other whole leaf spinach if the whole mixture is to be used for a purée. Wash the spinach carefully.
3. Bring the water and salt to a strong boil and pile the spinach on top. Cover and cook on high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. The water will barely come back to a boil. The spinach will wilt but still remain green.
4. Drain in a colander and run under cold water until cool enough to handle. Press into a ball, squeezing out the water, then cover with plastic wrap and keep in the refrigerator until needed.
SPINACH MOLD (Timbale d’Epinards)
YIELD: 6 servings
1 pound (454 grams) fresh spinach (prepared as above)
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
¾ cup (178 milliliters) milk
3 large eggs
½ cup (118 milliliters) heavy cream
6 slices firm white bread, cut into 2½-inch (6.5 centimeter) rounds and fried in a skillet with butter and vegetable oil until golden brown
6 ½-cup (118-milliliter) ramekins, buttered
Cook spinach as explained in steps 3 and 4 and chop coarsely. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and let it cook until it is brown. Add the spinach and mix with a fork. The dark brown butter gives the spinach a very nutty taste. Sprinkle the spinach with the flour, mix it in well, add the milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Let it boil for ½ minute, take off the heat and let it cool off on the side for 10 to 15 minutes. Beat the eggs, mix in the heavy cream and stir the whole mixture into the spinach.
5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (177°C). Fill the prepared molds with the mixture, dividing the solids and liquids equally, and place in a pan of tepid water. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until set. The water should not boil. The timbale should rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before being unmolded. To serve, run a knife around the inside of the mold to loosen the timbale. Unmold each timbale on a piece of bread and arrange around a roast, or serve plain or with a light cream sauce.
Swiss Chard au Gratin
(Côtes de Bettes au Gratin)
Swiss chard and cardoon are excellent vegetables. Cardoon stalks are peeled the same way as are the Swiss chard. The pieces of stalks are cooked in water or in a blanc (a mixture of water and flour) and sometimes served with marrow, in gratins, or with cream sauce or red wine sauce. Swiss chard can be steamed and sautéed in butter or cooked in the juice of a roast. The green of the Swiss chard can be eaten and cooked like spinach. The Swiss chard is often finished with parsley and garlic and, at other times, is cooked in a gratin—which is what we make below—to serve with a roast chicken or broiled steaks.
YIELD: 6 to 8 servings
3 pounds (1.4 kilograms) chard with the widest possible stalks
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1½ cups (355 milliliters) milk
½ cup (118 milliliters) heavy cream
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
½ cup (50 grams) grated Swiss cheese
1. Cut the leaves off on each side of the stalk. The 3 pounds (1.4 kilograms) of Swiss chard when cleaned will yield approximately 1¾ pounds (795 grams) of stalks. As you get toward the end of the stem, remove the green with the end of the stem. Keep the greens for soups or cook as you would spinach.
2. The stems are sometimes very wide and often not flat. Cut the stem in strips so the stalks are more manageable and easier to peel. To peel, cut a piece approximately 2 inches (5 centimeters) long from the stem. Do not cut completely through.
3. Break the “cut” piece and pull off. Note the fibers that hang from the large part of the stem.
4. Take the fibers and pull them off so that a complete side of the stem is clean. Repeat the same procedure on the underside of the stem. Removing the fibers makes the chard much more tender and is especially necessary when the vegetable is large and a bit old. As they are peeled, drop the stems in cold, lemony water to prevent discoloration.
5. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees (191°C). Drop the white stems into salted boiling water. Bring to a boil and boil for approximately 6 minutes. Drain in a colander. The pieces should be tender but still firm. For our white sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat and add the flour. Whisk and cook for about 1 minute, then add the milk and, still whisking, bring to a boil. Boil for about ½ minute. Remove from the heat and add the cream, salt, and pepper. Mix well. Butter a 6-cup (1.4-liter) au gratin dish and arrange the chard in it. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and pour the sauce on top.
6. Place on a cookie sheet in the oven for about 40 minutes. If not brown enough after this time, place briefly under the broiler. Let the gratin rest at least 10 minutes before serving.
Fried Parsley
(Persil Frit)
Parsley should be fried in clean fat that is not too hot and there should be enough fat to cover the parsley completely. In classic French cooking, fried parsley is served with fried fish, fried eggs, or fried croquettes.
YIELD: about 1 cup
2 cups (120 grams) curly parsley, washed and well dried
3 cups (710 milliliters) canola oil
Dash of salt
1. Bring the oil to 275 degrees (135°C) and drop the parsley into the hot oil. Stir with your skimmer. Fry for about 1 minute. Lift out and dry on a paper towel. Sprinkle lightly with salt and serve immediately.
Dandelion Salad
(Salade de Pissenlits)
Dandelion salad announces the coming of spring and, although there is some cultivated dandelion, it does not approach the taste of the wild one. Dandelion should be picked early in the season. Look for plants growing in gravel or soft earth or under leaves. You want stems that have been covered half way up, and will have had a chance to turn white like endive, with the same tender and slightly bitter and stringent taste. Although dandelions are commonly eaten in the French countryside, our recipe is a specialty of Lyon. The fat of the lardons of unsmoked bacon, also known as pancetta, is used with olive oil in the dressing for the salad. The salad is served on lukewarm plates with crusty bread and with a light Beaujolais.
1 pound (454 grams) cleaned, washed and dried dandelion greens
½ cup (150 grams) small sticks (lardons) pancetta
3 slices of toast
1 large garlic clove, peeled
2 hard-cooked large eggs, shelled
2 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed and chopped fine
1 small can (2 ounces/57 grams) anchovies in oil
1½ teaspoons good red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1. The dandelion greens should be picked before the flower stage or they will be tough and bitter. Use your knife to dig into the ground and remove the whole plant along with the root. Scrape the root of any dirt, removing any black parts but preserving as much of it as possible so the dandelion leaves still hold together by the root. Split the large plants in half so they can be washed properly. Wash several times in cold water, drain well and dry.
2. Cut the pancetta into ½-inch (13-millimeter) slices and then cut each slice into small strips (lardons). Place the lardons in cold water and bring to a boil. Boil for 8 minutes, drain, and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
3. Rub the toasted bread with a whole peeled clove of garlic on both sides. In order for the bread to “abrade” the garlic, it must be well toasted. Cut each slice of bread into 6 croûtons. Cut the 2 hard-cooked eggs into 6 segments each.
4. Place the anchovy fillets on the table and using the blade of a knife, crush and smear them down into a purée. Chop the 2 cloves of garlic very fine and add to the anchovies. Purée until smooth with the blade of a knife. Place the lardons in a skillet and fry them on medium heat until crisp. Meanwhile, place the purée of anchovies and garlic into a salad bowl, add the vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil and mix well. When the lardons are ready, add them with their fat to the mixture and stir well.
5. Add the washed and dried greens and mix thoroughly. Sprinkle the croûtons and the eggs on top. The salad should be room temperature. Serve immediately. This recipe is also good made from very thinly sliced red or white cabbage.
Glazed Onions
(Oignons Glacés)
Glazed onions are extensively used as a garnish in French cooking for coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, veal chop grandmère, chicken Boivin, and the like.
YIELD: 4 servings
24 small white onions (the size of jumbo olives)
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
¼ tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Water
1. Use tiny, white onions or shallots the size of a jumbo olive. Peel the onion by removing a small slice at the stem and one at the root end and removing the onion skin.
2. Place the onions in a saucepan in one layer. They should not overlap. Add enough water to barely cover the top of the onions. Add the butter, salt, and sugar. Place on high heat and boil uncovered until all the water is evaporated (about 12 minutes). Reduce the heat to medium and shake the saucepan or turn the onions to brown them on all sides.
3. Boiling the water is necessary because it cooks the onions. When the water has evaporated, what is left is butter and sugar. The onions will glaze in that mixture in a few minutes. If they do not glaze properly on direct heat, place for a few minutes under the broiler. Transfer the glazed onions to a plate until needed.
Potato-Cheese Stuffed Onion
(Oignon Farci au Fromage et Pommes de Terre)
Yield: 6 servings
6 medium onions
2 cups (300 grams) onion trimmings (from onions listed above)
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large baking potato, (about 12 ounces/340 grams), cooked with
skin on
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (120 grams) cream cheese
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
1. Peel the onions but leave the root ends. Cover the peeled onions with water, bring to a boil, and simmer at a gentle boil for about 30 minutes, until the onions are tender but still a bit firm. Drain and set aside to cool.
2. When cool, cut off a ½- to ¾-inch (1- to 2-centimeter) slice from the top of each onion so the opening will be larger. Reserve the tops. Using a small spoon, scoop out the inside of each onion, leaving about 2 or 3 outside layers for strength. Remove the root ends. You now have a receptacle for the stuffing.
3. For the stuffing: Chop the onion trimmings coarse. Melt the butter and add the oil to it in the skillet. When hot, add the chopped onions. Sauté over medium to high heat 4 to 5 minutes. Peel the cooked potato and chop coarse. Add to the onions in the skillet and continue cooking, tossing occasionally, for 5 minutes longer. Add the salt, pepper, cream cheese, and chives, and crush the mixture with a fork so it is well mixed. Remove from the heat.
4. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (204°C). Place the onions in a gratin dish. Using a spoon, stuff the hollowed out onions with the stuffing mixture. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and bake for about 15 minutes if the stuffing is still hot when placed in the onion receptacle. If cold, leave the onions in the oven for at least 25 minutes under the broiler to create a nice brown crust.
Onion Soup
(Soupe à l’Oignon)
Onion soup is widely served all over France, sometimes gratinée, that is with a crust on top, sometimes just as a broth. It can be served in a large terrine, as well as in individual crock pots. In a brasserie or bistro, it is usually served gratinée. The onions are sometimes sautéed lightly and left in the soup, as in our recipe; other times they are browned to a dark stage, then slightly singed with flour, cooked, then pushed through a food mill, as in the Lyonnaise version, which is made with water rather than stock.
4 cups (600 grams) thinly sliced onion (3 to 5 onions, depending on size)
1 pound (454 grams) good Swiss cheese (Emmenthaler or Gruyere), grated
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter
10 cups (2.4 liters) chicken stock, or a
mixture of chicken and beef stock, or a
mixture of water and stock
1 teaspoon crushed, peeled and finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon salt (to taste)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
2 dozen (24) slices of a baguette, cut very
thin and toasted in a 400 degree (204°C) oven until brown
1. Use sweet yellow onions, making sure you remove all the skin and the roots. Cut them in half across and slice very thinly. Melt the butter and brown the onions on medium heat in a large saucepan for 10 to 12 minutes, until brown. Stir in the stock, garlic, salt, and pepper, and boil for 10 minutes.
2. Grate the cheese. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (204°C). Brown the bread for about 10 minutes.
3. Place 4 to 5 slices of bread in each individual ovenproof bowl (use 12-ounce/340-gram bowls). Use a bowl with a lip or rim, which prevents the cheese from sinking into the soup as it cooks. Add a third of the cheese.
4. Add the stock until the bowls are filled evenly and to the top. This is very important because the cheese crust must not sink into the bowl if it is to brown in the oven.
Sprinkle the cheese on top without pushing it into the liquid. You will need at least 2½ ounces (71 grams) of cheese per bowl.
5. Press the cheese around the edges of each bowl so that when it melts it sticks to the sides and forms a crust that will stay put instead of sinking into the liquid. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the tops.
6. Place the bowls on a cookie sheet and bake for approximately 35 minutes, until nicely browned all around. Serve right away, one bowl per guest.
Stuffed Mushrooms
(Champignons Farcis)
Mushroom caps can be stuffed with meat, fish, shellfish, vegetables, or most anything. Snails with garlic butter are often served in mushroom caps. The caps are cooked before they are stuffed. Our mushrooms are stuffed with a light, delicate mixture of shallots, raisins, and coriander.
YIELD: 3 servings
6 large mushrooms (about 12 ounces/340 grams)
1 tablespoon (15 grams) unsalted butter
¾ cup (80 grams) chopped shallots
2 tablespoons raisins
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander (also called Chinese parsley or cilantro)
1 small, thin slice of bread, crumbed in processor
1 teaspoon olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (204°C). Use large mushrooms, at least 1½ ounces (115 grams) each. Do not clean the mushrooms ahead, but when ready to use, wash them under water at the last moment if they are dirty. If washed ahead, they will discolor and become spongy. Cut off the stems of the mushrooms with some of the underside of the caps.
2. Using a teaspoon, scoop out the inside of each mushroom, removing the stem and gills and leaving the cap as a receptacle. Place the caps, open side down, in a roasting pan and bake for about 10 minutes so they render their juices. Meanwhile, chop the trimmings of the mushrooms coarse. Melt the butter in a skillet. When hot, add the chopped shallots, sauté about 30 seconds, and add the chopped mushrooms and raisins. Sauté for about 1 to 2 minutes, until the juices of the mushrooms have been released and evaporated.
3. When the mushrooms start sizzling again, add the salt, pepper, parsley, and coriander. Let cool for 10 minutes. Gently combine the bread crumbs with the oil, stirring with a fork. The bread should remain fluffy but still be slightly moist from the oil, which will make it brown better in the oven. Stuff the mushroom receptacles with the raisin-coriander mixture and pat the bread crumbs on top. Place under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes, until nicely browned.
Identifying and Preparing Truffles
(Préparation des Truffes)
A truffle is a subterranean mushroom that grows through the root systems of certain trees in symbiosis with the host tree—primarily oaks, hazelnuts, and elms. The truffle matures in six to ten years and the precious fungi is usually found by a sow or a trained dog.
Fresh black truffles freeze better than white, which tend to turn brown and get mushy. When buying truffles, be sure—if they have not been brushed—to scrape the dirt off them before weighing. Unscrupulous sellers have been known to pack dirt into the holes and uneven surfaces of truffles to add weight to them. Fresh black truffles should have a strong aroma, be plump rather than wrinkled, and be firm and heavy. White truffles should also exude a strong perfume, be beige rather than brown, and be firm and plump.
Truffles spoil fairly rapidly: White truffles can be kept for five to six days, or up to 10 days if wrapped in paper or stored in rice; black truffles may keep a few days longer but will eventually shrink and spoil. Most of their flavor may spread through the refrigerator unless they are used as soon as possible or placed in oil or brandy or frozen. Truffles are best served with fast-cooked dishes such as scrambled eggs or omelets, or in potato dishes where the potatoes and truffles form a harmonious, delicate, and flavorful combination. A truffle salad flavored with walnut oil is also excellent made with an extra virgin olive oil.
1. The white Oregon truffle, on the left, is found in medium or small sizes and ranges from a pale beige to a darker brown. It has a musty, strong, woody aroma. Inside, it is basically the same in terms of color and design as the prized truffle of Italy, the Tuber magnatum, on the right, but does not have the same pungent aroma and taste.
2. The white truffle, Tuber magnatum, the most expensive of all truffles, should be brushed under lukewarm water to remove any dirt from the crannies and holes on the surface and then dried. The surface is smooth and need not be peeled. It should have a dry, strong, pungent aroma. Store, refrigerated, for only a few days, embedded in rice. The truffle can also be sliced and kept in oil or brandy. It’s best served raw in slices or grated on pasta or risotto.
3. From left to right: The Tuber magnatum, the summer black truffle (Tuber aestevum), and the Oregon white truffle. The truffle being brushed is the large Tuber melanosporum, the prized “black diamond” and best of the black truffles. This specimen is quite large and weighs approximately 6 ounces. It has a rugged, tough outside, as opposed to the white truffle, which has a smooth exterior.
4. A brushed and cut summer black truffle Tuber aestevum. Like the Tuber brumalle, it will get darker when cooked. Uncooked, it will have a dark brownish interior with the striation of the white mycelium.
5. The large Tuber melanosporum, the most expensive and best of the black truffles, cut in half. The inside is a dark gray, rather than brown like the summer black truffle.
6. Cut the Tuber melanosporum into 4 pieces and trim off the outside skin of each piece.
7. Finely chop the skin, which is tougher. The trimmings can be used in pâtés and sauces, or kept in Cognac.
8. Cooked and canned truffles stored in alcohol. As a result of cooking, they are darker in color than the fresh truffle. Keep them in the refrigerator immersed in brandy. The liquid can be used for flavoring pâtés or sauces.
Potato and Truffle Cake
(Pommes Sarladaise)
This dish is named after Sarlat, a town in the southwest of France where a great many truffles are marketed during the winter months. The truffle and potato combination works extremely well, and the entire dish picks up and retains the strong, heady smell and taste of the truffles. For the cook who cannot find or afford expensive truffles, the potato cake can be done the same way, omitting the truffle, and it then becomes Potatoes Anna.
YIELD: 4 servings
1½ pounds (680 grams) baking potatoes (6 cups peeled and
sliced)
1 large truffle or several small ones
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons peanut oil
½ teaspoon salt
1. Peel the potatoes and round off the sides of 3 of them to create cylinders of about the same size. Thinly slice (about 1/8-inch or 3-millimeter thick) the trimmed potatoes by hand or with an automatic slicer. Wash the slices in cold water, drain, and set aside. You should have 2 cups (300 grams). The slices of potato from the cylinders will be round, uniform, and of equal size. They are lined up in the skillet to create a design. The unequal-sized pieces of potato are used for the inside of the cake. Thinly slice all the other potatoes, including the trimmings from the 3 rounded potatoes. Wash in cold water and set aside.
2. Trim the truffle(s) of all the rough fibrous skin on the outside and chop the skin into small pieces. Thinly slice the centers of the truffles and set aside. Butter a large skillet, preferably non-stick, with 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of the butter. In another skillet, place 1 tablespoon of the oil and, when hot, add the 2 cups (300 grams) of sliced potatoes of equal size and a dash of salt. Sauté for about 30 seconds, just long enough to coat the potato slices with oil and soften them a bit. Place on a cookie sheet to cool.
3. In the bottom of your no-stick buttered skillet, arrange the slices of sautéed potatoes, placing a slice of truffle between every 2 or 3 slices of potatoes. Remember that this will be unmolded and served upside down, so this layer will be the top of the dish. The truffles should be completely covered underneath by potato slices so they don’t dry out during cooking. (The truffles will be visible through the thinly sliced potatoes.) Arrange the first layer so the whole bottom of the skillet is covered with the slices of potatoes and truffles.
4. In the other skillet, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and sauté the additional 4 cups (600 grams) of sliced potatoes (including the trimmings) with a dash of salt. Sauté for about 1 minute and add the chopped peelings of the truffles.
5. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (204°C). Place this potato-truffle mixture on top of the arranged slices of potatoes and truffles. Cook on top of the stove over medium to high heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown the potatoes. Using a large, flat spatula, press the potatoes so they are well packed against the bottom of the pan. Dot the potatoes with the remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams) of butter and cover with a piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil, cut to fit the skillet. With the spatula, press the paper onto the potatoes.
6. Place in the oven for 30 minutes with the paper in position, pressing the paper with the spatula again after 10 minutes to pack the potatoes more tightly. When the potatoes are cooked, set them aside for 4 to 5 minutes to cool and set. Then remove the paper and invert onto a serving platter.
Fried Potato Balls
(Pommes Parisienne)
The potato is probably the greatest food contribution that the New World made to the Old. It was introduced in France in the second half of the seventeenth century, but was first used as a decorative plant. It was popularized by an agronomist named Parmentier during the eighteenth century.
YIELD: 6 servings
4 or 5 large Idaho potatoes, peeled
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 tablespoons demi-glace
Dash salt
1. Peel the large baking potatoes. Keep in cold water to avoid discoloration. Push a round melon ball cutter down into the potato with your thumb as far as it will go.
2. Still pressing the tool into the potato, pivot the cutter in a downward motion to scoop out a ball. Repeat, using as much of the potato as you can. The trimmings are used in soup or mash. Place in cold water again to avoid discoloration. When ready to use, drain the potatoes, cover with fresh cold water, bring to a boil, and boil 2 minutes. Drain. This blanching of the potatoes will prevent them from discoloring when out of the water and will put some moisture into them. With the additional moisture, the potatoes will cook faster when sautéed in butter and have a softer, nicer consistency.
3. When ready to serve, melt the butter and oil in a skillet and, when hot, add the potato balls. They should be in one layer. Sauté for about 10 minutes over medium to high heat, shaking the skillet so the potatoes brown evenly on all sides. When they are tender, drain the fat out of the skillet and add demi-glace. Continue to cook the potatoes over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally so the demi-glace reduces and forms a glaze that coats the potatoes. Salt lightly. Serve immediately.
Potato Ovals
(Pommes Cocotte et Anglaise)
There are many ways of shaping potatoes for a fancy party. Nothing goes to waste as the trimmings can be used for soup or mashed potatoes or croquettes.
COCOTTE
1. Cut large potatoes in half. Cut each half into two pieces.
2. Cut the quarters into equal elongated pieces.
3. Trim or “turn” each piece into a little football-shaped potato. These are pommes cocotte. They are blanched for 1 minute in boiling water, drained, and sautéed in butter and oil and served as garnish for roasts, steak, and the like.
ANGLAISE
1. Trim potatoes at both ends and cut into large elongated chunks.
2. Trim each piece into a football-shaped potato. Classially it should have 7 sides. These potatoes can be steamed or boiled (pommes à l’anglaise), blanched and fried (pommes château), or cooked with butter and a little bit of water (pommes fondantes).
3. Left to right: groupings of pommes poisson to serve steamed with fish or meat, pommes cocotte, pommes à l’anglaise, pommes parisienne. Shaping the potatoes ensures proper cooking but is essentially done for aesthetic reasons. These kinds of potatoes should be cooked as closely as possible to the moment they will be eaten. If cooked ahead, they will taste reheated.
Deep Fried Potatoes
(Pommes Pailles, Allumettes, et Pont-Neuf)
Deep-fried potatoes take on different names depending on the shapes they are cut into before cooking. Though three kinds of potatoes shown here are all cut into sticks, the sizes are different and hence, the names.
1. Peel each potato and trim to look like a parallelepiped (a rectangular block). All trimmings are used in soups or in mashed potatoes.
2. Cut it into ⅜-inch (9.5-millimeter) thick slices.
3. Stack the slices together and cut into ⅜-inch (9.5-millimeter) sticks for matchstick potatoes (allumettes) or into ¾- to 1-inch (19-millimeter to 2.5-centimeter) sticks for the pont-neuf.
4. The straw potatoes (pommes pailles) can be cut by hand or with a mandoline.
5. Left to right: straw, pont-neuf and matchstick potatoes. The straws are cooked in 400 degree (204°C) oil until crisp. The pont-neuf and matchstick (French fried) are blanched first in 325 degree (160°C) oil until tender but still soft and white. At serving time, they are finished in 400-degree (204°C) oil for a couple of minutes until brown and crisp.
Straw Potato Cake
(Pommes Paillasson)
Pommes paillasson (which translates to “doormat”) are made from potatoes that are peeled, washed, and then cut into a fine julienne with a mandoline (a slicer) or by hand. Once the potatoes have been cut into julienne, they have to be cooked right away or kept in water to prevent discoloration. The water bath washes off some of the potato’s starch. If the potatoes are not kept in water but are cooked right away, the starch left in the potatoes will make them “cake” or hold better. On the other hand, they will be slightly gooey inside. If they have been washed, they will be less starchy in taste but more fragile in construction—the potatoes will be more likely to disentangle. The starch acts like a glue. Whichever method you use, the taste is the same, only the texture is slightly different. Use large Idaho potatoes. One large potato will give you approximately 1 cup (150 grams). These potatoes are known as rosti in Switzerland and also Darphin potatoes in France.
YIELD: 4 to 6 servings
3 cups (450 grams) julienned potatoes (use baking potatoes)
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
Dash of freshly ground black pepper
1. Peel and wash the potatoes, then cut into julienne. Wash the julienne and dry in paper towels or cook right away. In a non-stick skillet, heat half the butter and oil. When very hot, add potatoes, salt, and pepper and coat well with fat by stirring. Use a fork to spread the potatoes around.
2. Use a large, flat spoon to press the potatoes down so the strips cohere together into a cake. Cook on medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, pressing once in a while. Flip the pancake over and cook another 4 to 5 minutes on medium low heat. The pancake should not be more than 1 inch (26 millimeters) thick, crunchy on the outside and soft in the middle. If you cannot flip it in one stroke, place a plate on top, turn it upside down and slide back into the skillet. Serve as soon as possible.
Straw Potato Nest
(Nid en Pommes Paille)
The potato nest is done with julienne potatoes and is usually used as a garnish filled with tiny pommes soufflés or potato croquettes. To make the nest, you need a special double wire basket available in specialty stores. For each nest, you need approximately 2 cups (250 to 300 grams) of loose julienne potatoes. Washing the potatoes julienne will give you a nest which won’t hold together as well as the one with unwashed potatoes which, however, won’t release as well from the metal nest because the starch will stick to the metal wires. However, it works both ways.
1. Using a knife or a mandoline (vegetable slicer), slice the potatoes into slices 1/16-inch (1.6 millimeters) thick. Pile them together and cut into a thin julienne. Wash and dry, if desired.
2. Dip the wire basket in the hot oil. Then fill the bottom part of the basket with potato strips. Make a hole in the center and place the smaller basket inside to create a nest.
3. Secure both parts with the clip.
4. Drop the potatoes in 400 degree (204°C) vegetable oil and cook for 4 to 5 minutes on high heat. Be sure that the potato nest stays completely immersed during cooking by holding it down into the oil.
5. To unmold, remove the clip and trim away the pieces of potato sticking through both the outside and inside of the nest. This makes it easier to release the potatoes from the mold.
6. Jiggle the smaller wire basket and lift it up from the potatoes.
7. The potatoes may still be hard to remove. Turn upside down, and using a towel, press the mesh to bend it and help the potatoes release. Use a small knife to pry it out.
8. The potato nest released, and ready to be served.
Waffled Potatoes
(Pommes Gaufrettes)
1. The gaufrettes potatoes are cut with the mandoline, which is a special vegetable cutter. Using the side with the wrinkled or “teeth” blade, hold the potato with the palm of your hand or a towel and cut straight down.
2. Turn the potato 90 degrees. Your fingers are now facing the other direction. Cut straight down. Turn the potato 90 degrees for the next slice. You are crisscrossing the slices, to achieve the waffle shape. If the holes are not evident, the slices are too thick. If the potato slice does not hold together, but is all stringy, the slices are too thin. Adjust the thickness accordingly.
3. Wash the potato slices, dry, and deep fry in 375 degree (191°C) oil. Unlike pont-neufs or allumettes, which are cooked twice, gaufrettes are cooked only once, until nicely browned and very crisp.
Waffle Potato Nest
(Nid en Pommes Gaufrettes)
1. Using the mandoline, cut the waffle potatoes. Arrange slices of waffle potatoes in the bottom layer of the wire basket to simulate a tulip.
2. Place the smaller basket on top, secure with the clip and dip in 400 degree (204°C) vegetable oil. Make sure that the whole nest is immersed. It will take approximately 3½ minutes to cook. Remove from the oil, unclip and start jiggling the two parts of the nest to separate them. The nest may remain attached to the top part or may stick to the bottom part. (In our case, the nest stuck to the top.)
3. Using a knife, pry all around and trim the inside to release the nest. The waffle nest is even more fragile than the straw potato nest.
4. The potato nest can be filled with straw potatoes or soufflé potatoes and served as a garnish for roasted poultry.
Puffed Potato Slices
(Pommes Soufflées)
Making the puff, or inflated potato, called pommes soufflées, is a delicate operation. If the potatoes have too much moisture, as new potatoes often have, they will not puff. If they are soft and marbled, as old potatoes frequently are, they will not puff either. Often 15 to 20 percent of any one batch stays flat. In restaurants, the flat ones are served as regular fried potatoes.
According to Larousse Gastronomique, the recipe was discovered accidentally in 1837 at the inauguration ceremonies for a railroad service to a small town near Paris. A local restaurant prepared a meal, including fried potatoes, for the official delegation. The train was late and the chef removed the potatoes from the fryer half cooked. At serving time, he was stupefied to see they puffed as he dipped them back in the hot oil. The chemist Michel-Eugène Chevreul worked out the reasons and a recipe was compiled.
1. In restaurants, the first cooking of the potatoes takes place during the morning or afternoon preparation. They are dipped again in hot oil to re-inflate and crisp just before serving. Peel the potatoes and trim each one into the shape of a cylinder. (They can also be trimmed into a tube or a rectangle.) Use the trimmings in soup, purée, hash browns, and the like.
2. Trim the ends of the potatoes. The slices should be the same size and shape to insure proper cooking, and for aesthetic reasons. Here they are cut into straight slices approximately 3/16-inch (4 millimeters) thick.
3. For another look, the slice also can be cut on the crinkle side of the blade into slices about ⅜-inch (9.5-millimeters) thick.
4. Pour vegetable oil, about 2½ to 3 inches deep, into two saucepans. Heat one to 325 degrees (163°C) and the other to 375 degrees (191°C). Drop 15 to 20 slices into the 325 degree (163°C) fryer and shake back and forth on the heat for 6 to 7 minutes (an asbestos pad will make the shaking easier by helping the pan to slide). Be careful not to splash oil on your hands while shaking the pan. You have to get a rhythm going. After 4 to 5 minutes, the slices should come to the surface and blisters should start to appear on them. Keep shaking another minute.
5. Stop shaking the pan. Using a skimmer, remove a few slices at a time. Let drain and soften for 5 to 6 seconds, then dip into the 375 degree (191°C) fryer. The potatoes should swell instantly. Do not let them brown unless you are serving them at this point. As they puff up, transfer to a pan lined with a paper towel to drain. Finish the whole batch in this manner. You will notice they deflate as you place them on the towel. Pick out the ones that puffed up and arrange them on the pan. Eat or discard the other slices. Covered with a paper towel, the good ones will keep at room temperature for several hours.
6. At serving time, drop the slices in the 375 degree (191°C) fryer, moving them around with a skimmer so that they brown evenly. They should be very crisp to stay puffed. (During the first cooking, the surface of the slices becomes watertight. When the slices are dropped into hot oil, the water “imprisoned” inside tries to escape, pushing from the center, making the potato puff up.)
7. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately on folded napkins. Here are some straight and crinkled pommes soufflées.
Potato Flats
(Galette de Pommes de Terre)
In this fried potato pancake, the potatoes are processed raw in a food processor. There are many variations of potato pancakes.
YIELD: about 20
2 potatoes (12 ounces/340 grams)
½ cup (75 grams) all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
½ pound (227 grams) ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons chopped chives
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil and 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter per skillet
1. Peel 2 potatoes, cut into pieces, and place in a food processor with the flour. Process until smooth and add 2 eggs and the ricotta cheese. Process until well mixed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the chopped chives. Sprinkle baking powder on top with salt and pepper, and mix just enough to combine. Heat corn oil and butter in a large skillet and, when hot, add 2 good tablespoons of the potato mixture per pancake, cooking 6 to 8 at one time if your skillet is large enough. Sauté for approximately 2 minutes over medium to high heat on one side. Turn and cook 2 minutes on the other side. These are best when served as soon as possible after cooking. They will be nicely browned with the edges darker and crunchier.
Separating Eggs
(Séparation des Oeufs)
When you use eggs, you often end up with an excess of yolk or white. The egg whites, almost pure albumin, freeze well. Defrosted egg whites whip as well as fresh egg whites, and they do not pick up odors. The yolk, however, high in fat, does not freeze well. Unless the temperature goes as low as -20 degrees (-29°C), bacteria will grow in the egg yolk. In addition, yolks easily become freezer burnt. However, they can be kept for a day in the refrigerator covered with a layer of water to prevent a skin from forming on top. Pour the water off before using. For all of our egg recipes, use organic fresh eggs from a farm.
1. To separate the yolk from the white, crack the egg on a flat surface. Cracking it on a sharp edge tends to push some shell inside the egg, introducing bacteria. Open the egg, keeping one half upright to hold the yolk. Let the white drop into the bowl.
2. Pour the yolk into the empty half shell, letting more white drop into the bowl as you are transferring the yolk from one shell to the other.
3. An alternative method is to pour the egg into your hand and let the white drip through your fingers.
Poaching Eggs
(Oeufs Pochés)
When making poached eggs, the fresher the eggs are the better. The older the eggs, the more the whites will tend to spread in the water. A dash of vinegar (distilled white vinegar) is added to the water to help firm the egg white. Salt is omitted because it has the reverse effect and tends to thin down the white. Poached eggs lend themselves to an infinite number of combinations, from the very simple poached egg on toast, to the sophisticated eggs Benedict, served with ham, hollandaise sauce, and truffles. Eggs can be poached several hours, even a day, ahead (as most restaurants do) and kept refrigerated in a bowl of cold water, eliminating any last-minute panic when you want to serve several people at once.
1. To poach 8 eggs, pour 3 quarts (3 scant liters) of water and ¾ cup (59 milliliters) white vinegar into a large saucepan, preferably no stick. Bring to a boil; then, reduce to a simmer. Break one egg at a time on a flat surface. Holding it as closely as you can to the water (to avoid splashing), open it with both thumbs and let it slide into the water. Drop your eggs at the place where the water is simmering so that they don’t go down into the water too fast and stick to the bottom. If you are afraid of burning your fingers, break the eggs in a saucer or bowl and slide them into the water. Go as fast as you can so that the difference in cooking time is not too great between the first and the last egg.
2. As soon as all the eggs are in the water, drag a large slotted spoon across the surface of the water to move the eggs about a bit and keep them from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Once some of the whites have hardened, the eggs will not stick any more.
3. Large eggs take approximately 4 minutes to cook. If you like them more runny or more set, the timing should be changed accordingly. Check the eggs by lifting them, one at a time, with a slotted spoon and pressing them slightly with your fingers. The whites should be set, but the yolks soft to the touch. As soon as an egg is cooked, transfer it to a bowl of iced water. This stops the cooking and washes off the vinegar.
4. When the eggs are cold, lift each one from the water and trim off the hanging pieces with a knife or a pair of scissors. Place in a bowl of fresh cold water.
5. Drain well if you use them cold, or keep refrigerated in cold water. They will keep for at least a couple of days. To use hot, place in a strainer, lower into boiling water for approximately 1 minute, drain, and serve immediately.
Omelets
(Omelettes)
There are different types of omelets, from the classic French version to the country or flat types. There is not one better than another; they are all good in their own way. Omelet making is both simple and difficult. A perfect omelet is golden in color on top, delicate and creamy in the center. In addition to fresh eggs and unsalted butter, there are three other major ingredients: the right pan, practice, and high heat. It is essential to have an 8- to 10-inch (20- to 25-centimeter) no stick omelet pan, with rounded, sloping shoulders that give the omelet a nice shape and help it slide easily onto the plate when cooked. Be sure to use high heat, and do not use too much butter, or the omelet will be wrinkled. The whole operation should not take you more than a couple of minutes.
CLASSIC OMELET FINES HERBES
YIELD: 1 omelet
3 large eggs
Dash salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh herb mixture (finely chopped parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives)
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
1. Beat the eggs with salt, pepper, and the herb mixture in a bowl with a fork until well combined; that is, when you lift up the fork, pieces of egg white should no longer separate from the yolk. For a classic French omelet, place the butter in a non-stick skillet 6 to 8 inches in diameter and melt over high heat. Swirl the butter in the pan and, when foaming, add the eggs. Holding the fork flat, stir the eggs as fast as you can while shaking the pan with your other hand. Continue shaking and stirring without stopping so the eggs coagulate uniformly.
2. Still stirring, notice that the eggs are still moist in the center. Incline your pan forward so most of the eggs gather toward the far end of the pan as they set. Now stop stirring while the eggs are still moist in the center.
3. Using your fork, bring the near lip over toward the center of the omelet. Note that as the mass of eggs has moved toward the far end of the pan, it has thinned out around the edges. Only the two thin lips are flipped over, first from one end, then the other, to enclose the thick, moist center.
4. Press the fold into place. Note: this motion should create a roundish edge.
5. Run your fork between the edge of the pan and the far lip of the omelet to loosen it. Using the palm of your hand, tap the handle of the pan gently to shake the omelet and make it lift onto itself, so the far lip rises above the edge of the pan.
6. Fold the far lip back toward the center of the omelet, meeting the other lip. Press with the flat of the fork to make sure the omelet comes to a point at each end. While holding the serving plate in your left hand, first bang the end of the pan gently so the omelet pulls together against the edge of the pan. Then, invert the omelet onto the plate and serve immediately.
7. The omelet should be very moist, creamy, and wet in the center.
Country-style Fines-Herbes Omelet:
1. Melt the butter in the omelet pan. Mix together the eggs, salt, pepper, and herbs. When the butter is hot and the foaming has subsided, pour the egg-herb mixture into the center of the pan and cook over medium heat, allowing the eggs to set into large curds and curl at the edges. Then, with the tines of your fork, stir the eggs so the runny part fills the areas between the set curds.
2. When most of the eggs are set but still slightly liquid inside, the omelet is ready.
3. Fold the omelet in half. You will notice that the outside will have a nice brown color as opposed to the classic omelet, which is pale yellow. Invert onto a plate and serve immediately.
Stuffed Omelet Hunter-style
YIELD: 1 omelet
2 teaspoons (10 grams) unsalted butter
1 medium mushroom, diced
1 chicken liver, cut into ¾-inch (2 centimeter) dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato sauce
1 teaspoon chopped chives
3 large eggs
1. Heat 1 teaspoon (5 grams) of the butter and, when hot, sauté the mushroom for about 30 seconds. Add the chicken liver and dash of salt and pepper. Sauté another 30 seconds and add the tomato sauce and chives. Set aside.
2. Mix the eggs and dash of salt and pepper with your fork. Heat the remaining 1 teaspoon (5 grams) butter in an omelet pan. When hot, add the eggs and stir, following the techniques used to make a classic omelet.
3. Fold the near lip onto the omelet. Arrange most of the solids from the liver-mushroom mixture down the center of the omelet, saving the remainder for the garnish, pushing lightly with your fork to hold them in place.
4. Tap on the end of the handle gently to bring the far lip up. Press the far lip of the omelet over the stuffing, making sure that the ends of the omelet are pointed. Bang the end of the omelet pan gently so the omelet sits on the far edge of the pan. Invert onto a serving plate. Place a little extra sauce around the omelet and a bit of the liver-mushroom mixture at each end. Serve immediately.
Flat Omelet, Farmer-style
yield: 1 omelet
2 slices salted bacon, cut into ¾-inch (2 centimeter) strips
½ Idaho potato, cut into 12 unpeeled, very thin slices
2 tablespoons minced chives
3 large eggs
Dash freshly ground black pepper
1. Cook the bacon strips on both sides for a few minutes, until nicely browned. Add the potato slices and sauté for another 4 to 5 minutes, until the thin slices are nicely browned. Add the chives. With a fork, beat the eggs with a dash of pepper (salt is not necessary because of the bacon).
2. Add the eggs and drag the tines of a fork between the curds to expose the runny eggs to the cooking surface.
3. When the eggs are set, still slightly creamy and liquid in the center, the omelet can be flipped over (if you feel dexterous enough), or you can slide or invert it directly onto a plate. Serve immediately.
4. The 4 omelets: From the top left, clockwise, the flat omelet farmer-style, the country-style fines-herbes omelet, the classic stuffed omelet hunter-style, and the classic fines-herbes omelet.
Eggs “Cocotte” with Cream
(Oeufs Cocotte Bressane)
These eggs are simple to make. The eggs are cooked in small soufflé molds or ramekins in a water bath and eaten as a first course for dinner or for a light breakfast or brunch. Many variations can be made by adding ingredients—from mushrooms to herbs to shrimp or cream—to the top or bottom.
YIELD: 6 servings
6 jumbo eggs, very fresh
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons heavy cream
1. Use small ramekins or soufflé molds, no more than ½ cup (118 milliliters) in size. Butter the molds and sprinkle salt and pepper in the bottom.
2. Break an egg into each ramekin.
3. Place the ramekins in a skillet with tepid water around (a bain-marie) and cover. Place on top of the stove and let the water boil for approximately 4 minutes. The cover holds in the steam, which makes the top glaze. The eggs should be barely set and still soft in the center.
4. Note that the eggs are shiny and glazed on top. Remove from the bain-marie and serve garnished or plain. With a bit of heavy cream on top, they are called eggs Bressane; with peas, they will become eggs Clamard, etc. They can also be unmolded on a crouton.
5. Sometimes the garnish is placed in the bottom of the mold and the egg is broken directly on top. In this case, put 1 tablespoon of heavy cream in the bottom of the mold, break the egg on top and cook, covered, as indicated above.
Scrambled Eggs
(Oeufs Brouillés)
In classic French cooking, the scrambled eggs are whisked into a very smooth purée and finished with cream and butter. They can be cooked in a double boiler using a wooden spatula, or on a low to medium heat using a whisk. Use a heavy, sturdy saucepan to obtain even heat. The eggs can be garnished with a bit of brown sauce or with a sauce Périgueux (a brown sauce with chopped truffles), or a fresh purée of tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese, or peas, or sautéed chicken livers, etc. They can also be served plain. The eggs acquire a different name with each different garnish. They can be served as a first course, as well as for breakfast or lunch.
YIELD: 2 to 3 servings
5 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon, plus ½ tablespoon (21 grams) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons heavy cream or sour cream
1. Break the eggs into a bowl and add salt and pepper. Beat the eggs with a whisk to mix well. Set 1/4 cup of the raw eggs aside to be used at the end of the cooking time. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. When foaming, pour in the eggs and cook over medium heat, stirring gently with the whisk. Be sure to get around the bottom edge of the pan with your whisk, since the eggs will have a tendency to set and harden there first. Keep cooking and whisking gently until the mixture gets very creamy.
2. The eggs should have the smallest possible curds. Continue cooking until you can see the bottom of the pan as the whisk is drawn through the eggs. Remove the pan from the heat; the eggs will continue cooking, especially around the edges of the pan. Add the reserved raw eggs and the cream and keep mixing; the uncooked eggs and cream will absorb the heat still generated by the pan. Transfer to a serving dish and serve immediately.
Deep-Fried Eggs
(Oeufs Frits Américaine)
This is a different way to prepare eggs. Instead of poaching them in water, they are poached in oil. The centers are runny and soft, just like regular poached eggs. Only one egg can be done at a time, and it must be cooked very fast so that the white is wrapped around the yolk and nicely browned. Deep-fried eggs are usually served with bacon and fried tomatoes for lunch or breakfast.
YIELD: 3 servings
2½ to 3 cups (592 to 710 milliliters) canola or peanut oil
6 large eggs, very fresh
1. Pour the oil into a 2-inch/5-centimeter-deep no stick skillet. (There should be at least 1½ inches/5 centimeters of oil so the eggs can be immersed.) Heat to 360 degrees (180°C) and warm two wooden spatulas in it (to prevent the eggs from sticking to the spatulas). Break one egg at a time into the oil, or break into a cup and slide it into the oil if you are afraid of being splashed with hot oil.
2. Then, use the two spatulas to gather the egg white around the yolk.
3. “Squeeze” the egg slightly (between the spatulas, against the side of the skillet) for a few seconds to keep the egg white contained—so it doesn’t spread as it cooks. If the egg sticks to one spatula, scrape it off with the other spatula. Turn the egg in the oil and cook it for about 2 minutes altogether. Remove the egg with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and serve immediately. When the egg is taken out of the oil it will be nicely puffed. If kept a few minutes, it will deflate slightly.
4. Notice that the center has the consistency of a poached egg. Like the preceding egg recipes, this dish can be served with a variety of garnishes and with each different garnish, it changes its name. Here it is served on a cooked slice of eggplant garnished with sautéed red pepper and cilantro.
