Java

Why Go?

The heart of the nation, Java is an island of megacities, mesmerising natural beauty, magical archaeological sites and profound traditions in art, music and dance.

Boasting a dazzling array of bewitching landscapes – iridescent rice paddies, smoking volcanoes, rainforest and savannah, not to mention virgin beaches – most journeys here are defined by scenic excesses. The island is at its most excessive in the cities: crowded, polluted, concrete labyrinths that buzz and roar. Dive into Jakarta's addictive mayhem, soak up Yogyakarta's soul and stroll though Solo's batik laneways en route to the island's all-natural wonders.

Home to 140 million people and the most populated island on earth, Java travel can be slow going, particularly in the west. However, the rail network is generally reliable and efficient, and flights are inexpensive. Your endurance will be rewarded with fascinating insights into Indonesia's most complex and culturally compelling island.

When to Go

AMay Spectacular Waisak processions to mark the birth of Buddha in Borobudur.

AJun Perhaps the perfect month for travel, with clear skies and few crowds.

AOct The climax of the bull-racing season in Madura.

Best Places to Eat

A Lara Djonggrang

A Mediterranea

A Lodges Ekologika on Portibi Farms

A Pasar Ikan, Pangandaran

A Por Que No

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Tugu Malang

A Breve Azurine

A The Phoenix

A Hotel Indonesia Kempinski

A Bangsring Breeze

Java Highlights

1 Experiencing the ethereal beauty of Borobudur temple at sunrise.

2 Gazing over the horizon-filling moonscape scenery at Gunung Bromo.

3 Hiking to the crater lake of Kawah Ijen with strong-armed sulphur miners.

4 Time travelling to Java’s golden age in the cultural capital of Yogyakarta.

5 Exploring magnificent national parks: Ujung Kulon, Meru Betiri, and Alas Purwo.

6 Meeting the locals via a community tourism project in Cianjur.

7 Getting off the road and experiencing the palm-fringed Karimunjawa Islands.

8 Surfing Java's legendary waves at Cimaja, Batu Karas or G-Land.

History

Java has a history of epic proportions and a record of human habitation that extends back 1.7 million years to when ‘Java Man’ roamed the riverbanks. Waves of migrants followed, moving down through Southeast Asia.

Early Javanese Kingdoms

Blessed with exceptional fertility from its mineral-rich volcanic soil, Java has long played host to intensive sawah (wet rice) agriculture.

Small principalities emerged, including the Hindu Mataram dynasty, in the 8th century, with worship centred on the god Shiva. Hinduism coexisted with Buddhism for centuries, and the massive Hindu Prambanan complex was constructed within a century of Borobudur, the world's biggest Buddhist monument.

Mataram eventually fell, perhaps at the hands of the Sumatra-based Sriwijaya kingdom. The Javanese revival began in AD 1019 under King Airlangga, a semi-legendary figure who formed the first royal link with Bali.

Early in the 13th century the legendary Ken Angrok briefly succeeded in uniting much of Central and East Java, and Javanese culture flourished brightly.

With the emergence of the much-celebrated Majapahit kingdom, ruling from Trowulan, came the first Javanese commercial kingdom. The kingdom traded with China and most of Southeast Asia, and grew to claim sovereignty over the entire Indonesian archipelago.

Islamic Kingdoms

Islamic influence grew in Java in the 15th and 16th centuries, and Muslim military incursions into East Java forced many Hindu-Buddhists eastwards to Bali. By the 17th century, the Muslim kingdoms of Mataram and Banten were the only two powers in Java left to face the arrival of the Dutch.

Dutch Period

As the Dutch set up camp in Batavia (Jakarta), Banten remained a powerful force, but civil war within the royal house led to its eventual collapse.

The Mataram dynasty also became plagued by infighting, and following three Javanese Wars of Succession, the last in 1746, the Dutch split the kingdom, creating the royal houses of Solo and Yogyakarta.

Resistance to Dutch influence continued, erupting in the anti-Dutch Java War (1825–30), but the colonists defeated the revolts and subsequently Javanese courts became little more than ritual establishments, overseen by a Dutch residen (governor).

Java Today

Java still rules the roost when it comes to political and economic life in Indonesia. It has the bulk of the country’s industry, is easily its most developed island, and has over the years received the lion’s share of foreign investment.

The economic crisis of the late ’90s hit hard, when huge numbers of urban workers lost their jobs and rioters targeted Chinese communities. But Java bounced back relatively quickly, and enjoyed a period of comparative stability and growing prosperity in the early 21st century. Glittering shopping malls and a boom in the tech business are the most obvious signs of Java’s steady (if unspectacular) modernisation.

Bali apart, Java is the most outward-looking island in Indonesia, and its literate, educated population is the most closely connected to the rest of the world. Extraneous influences matter here, and Java is the most Westernised island in the country and also the corner of the nation most influenced by radical pan-Islamic ideology. While most Javanese are moderate Muslims, there’s an increasingly vocal conservative population (as well as tiny numbers of fanatics prepared to cause death and destruction in the name of jihad). The Bali bombers all came from Java, and Java-based terrorists targeted foreign investments in Jakarta in 2003 and 2004, as well as several international hotels in 2009.

Today Java can look to the future with some optimism. Thanks to an upsurge in foreign travel, its people are increasingly prosperous and cosmopolitan. But as the island develops at pace, pressing environmental issues (including pollution and the floods that threaten Jakarta most years) are an increasing threat. Infrastructure woes – inadequate highways and waste management, and a lack of investment in train and metro networks – also hamper growth. This makes the recent slide in the rupiah and economic struggles more predictable than surprising.

As of 2015, the latest trend in government has been conservative. One recent law banned the sale of beer in supermarkets and minimarts (later reversed), and another set a new national closing time for bars and clubs at midnight. However, the man running Jakarta, Governor Basuki 'Ahok' Tjahaja Purnama, is an anti-corruption progressive who has become a folk hero for live streaming every meeting he has with government ministers and legislators. Corruption has long hindered fairness and growth in Java, and Ahok is hoping to buck that trend and establish a new mode of governance that can last.

JAVA MAN

Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species (1859) spawned a new generation of naturalists in the 19th century, and his theories sparked acrimonious debate across the world. Ernst Haeckel’s The History of Natural Creation (1874) expounded Darwin’s theory of evolution and surmised that primitive humans had evolved from a common ape-man ancestor, the famous ‘missing link’.

One student of the new theories, Dutch physician Eugene Dubois, went to Java in 1889 after hearing of the uncovering of a skull at Wajak, near Tulung Agung in East Java. Dubois worked at the dig, uncovering other fossils closely related to modern humans. In 1891 at Trinil in East Java’s Ngawi district, Dubois unearthed an older skullcap, along with a femur and three teeth he later classified as originating from Pithecanthropus erectus, a low-browed, prominent-jawed early human ancestor, dating from the Middle Pleistocene epoch. His published findings of ‘Java Man’ caused such a storm in Europe that Dubois buried his discovery for 30 years.

Since Dubois’ findings, many older examples of Homo erectus (the name subsequently given to Pithecanthropus erectus) have been uncovered in Java. The most important and most numerous findings have been at Sangiran, where in the 1930s Ralph von Koenigswald found fossils dating back to around one million BC. In 1936, at Perning near Mojokerto, the skull of a child was discovered and was purported to be even older. Most findings have been along Sungai Bengawan Solo (Bengawan Solo River) in Central and East Java.

Geochronologists have now dated the bones of Java’s oldest Homo erectus specimens at 1.7 million years, but also postulate that the youngest fossils may be less than 40,000 years old. This means that Homo erectus existed in Java at the same time as Homo sapiens, who arrived on the island some 60,000 years ago, and reignites the debate about whether humankind evolved in Africa and migrated from there, or whether humans evolved on several continents concurrently. Those interested in learning more should pick up a copy of Carl Swisher, Garniss Curtis and Roger Lewin’s extremely readable book Java Man.

Culture

Javanese culture is a rich mix of customs that date back to animist beliefs and Hindu times. Ancient practices are fused with endemic Muslim traditions, which retain mystical Sufi elements beneath a more obvious orthodox and conservative Islamic culture.

The Javanese cosmos is composed of different levels of belief stemming from older and more accommodating mysticism, the Hindu court culture and a very real belief in ghosts and numerous benevolent and malevolent spirits. Underneath the unifying code of Islam, magic power is concentrated in amulets and heirlooms (especially the Javanese dagger known as the kris); in parts of the human body, such as the nails and the hair; and in sacred musical instruments. The dukun (faith healer and herbal doctor or mystic) is still consulted when illness strikes. Jamu (herbal medicine) potions are widely taken to do everything from boost libido to cure asthma.

Refinement and politeness are highly regarded, and loud displays of emotion, coarseness, vulgarity and flamboyant behaviour are considered kasar (bad manners; coarse). Halus (refined) Javanese is part of the Hindu court tradition, which still exists in the heartland of Central Java. In contrast to Islam, the court tradition has a hierarchical world view, based on privilege and often guided by the gods or nature spirits.

Indirectness is a Javanese trait that stems from an unwillingness to make others feel uncomfortable. It is impolite to point out mistakes and sensitivities, or to directly criticise authority.

Java has three main ethnic groups, each speaking their own language: the Javanese of Central and East Java (where halus is taken very seriously); the Sundanese of West Java; and the Madurese from Pulau Madura (who have a reputation for blunt-speaking and informality). Small pockets of Hindus remain, including the Tenggerese of the Bromo area and the Badui of West Java, whose religion retains many animist beliefs. Even metropolitan Jakarta identifies its own polyglot tradition in the Betawi, the name for the original inhabitants of the city.

Jakarta

%021 / Pop 10.2 million

One of the world’s greatest megalopolises, Jakarta is a dynamic city of daunting extremes that's developing at a pace that throws up challenges and surreal juxtapositions on every street corner. An organism unto itself, this is a town in the midst of a very public metamorphosis, and despite the maddening traffic, life here is lived at an all-out pace, driven by an industriousness and optimism that's palpable. Dysfunction be damned.

Translation: it's no oil painting, yet beneath the unappealing facade of new build high-rises, relentless concrete and gridlocked streets, fringed with rickety slums and shrouded in a persistent blanket of smog, Jakarta has many faces and plenty of surprises. Its citizens – even the poorest among them – are remarkably good-natured and positive, and compared to many of the world’s capitals, crime levels are low.

From the steamy, richly scented streets of Chinatown to North Jakarta's riotous, decadent nightlife, the city is filled with unexpected corners. Here it’s possible to rub shoulders with Indonesia’s future leaders, artists, thinkers, movers and shakers in a bohemian cafe or a sleek lounge bar and then go clubbing till dawn and beyond, the sober desires of current lawmakers notwithstanding.

History

Jakarta’s earliest history centres on the port of Sunda Kelapa, in the north of the modern city. When the Portuguese arrived it was a bustling port in the last Hindu kingdom of West Java, but they were driven out in 1527 and the city was renamed Jayakarta, meaning ‘victorious city’.

Dutch Rule

At the beginning of the 17th century the Dutch and English jostled for power in the region, with the Dutch prevailing. The city was renamed Batavia and made the capital of the Dutch East Indies, as Amsterdam-style houses and canals were constructed.

By 1740 ethnic unrest lead to the massacre of 5000 Chinese, and virtually the entire community was subsequently moved to Glodok, outside the city walls. Dutch colonial rule came to an end with the Japanese occupation in 1942 and the name Jakarta was restored.

Post Independence

Over the next four decades, the capital struggled under the weight of an ever-increasing population of poor migrants, but by the 1990s Jakarta’s economic situation had turned around. This all changed, however, with the economic collapse of 1997. The capital quickly became a political battleground and the epicentre of protests demanding Suharto’s resignation.

Jakarta erupted in rioting after the deaths of student protesters, as thousands took to the streets and looted malls. The Chinese were hardest hit, with shocking tales of rape and murder emerging after the riots.

The City Today

Jakarta has suffered on several fronts since the beginning of the 21st century. Severe floods (which strike every rainy season) frequently cause massive damage to homes and infrastructure, and in the early part of the millennium terrorists targeted Western interests, bombing US-owned hotels and the Australian embassy with terrifying frequency. But that all seemed to change around the time Barack Obama, today considered a favourite son of Indonesia, was elected US president, which coincided with Indonesia's abundance of natural resources translating into favourable trade deals and a gathering economy. That, along with Thailand's political turmoil, placed Indonesia on a shortlist of countries that managed to avoid the global recession.

But in the past several years, the currency has tanked and the economy has begun to grind to a halt along with countless development projects. Of late there has also been a series of regressive regulations passed by federal lawmakers targeting the bar and nightlife industry. First there was the so-called beer ban, in which beer was no longer available in minimarts and liquor stores. That law was later reversed after popular outcry (though good luck finding it in most Javanese minimarts). More recently, the so-called no-fun initiative dictates all bars and clubs are to close at midnight. However, the law was not well enforced at press time, and time will tell if it lasts at all.

Through it all, Jakarta’s public transport system has remained hopelessly inefficient compared with many Chinese cities, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur and there remains much to be done before Jakarta becomes a modern metropolis.

1Sights

Kota

Despite its nooks of fun and culture, to the uninitiated Jakarta can feel overwhelming and its gifts inaccessible. Kota is where they're easy to find.

The old town of Batavia, now known as Kota, was the hub of Dutch colonial Indonesia. Today it’s a faded vision of a once-grand empire, replete with crumbling historic buildings and stinky canals where handicrafts and art are sold on the street. Some of the white washed Dutch colonial buildings have been turned into museums and cavernous cafes as elegant as they are lazy, often with good tunes on the stereo, but with so many fine old structures still vacant there remains loads of room for growth.

Taman Fatahillah, Kota’s central cobblestone square, surrounded by imposing colonial buildings including the former town hall, is where you can get your bearings. A block west of the square is Kali Besar, the great canal along Sungai Ciliwung (Ciliwung River), lined with once-grand homes of the wealthy, most built in the early 18th century. Check out the red-tiled facade of Toko Merah ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kali Besar Barat, Red Shop), the former home of Governor General van Imhoff. At the northern end of Kali Besar is the last remaining Dutch drawbridge, the Chicken Market Bridge, which dates from the 17th century.

Walking along the canal to the restored drawbridge, you'll see real life unfold. Bemo (minibus) drivers getting massages, playing chess, and eating bakso (meatball soup) curbside before their shift. Laundry drying on the railings. Here are garbage dumps and florists, and all manner of cottage industries half-hidden behind courtyards of relics. This is Jakarta's subsistence poetry of struggle and will.

To reach Taman Fatahillah, take the busway Korridor I from Blok M or Jl Thamrin to Kota train station and walk. Trains from Gondangdia, near Jl Jaksa, also run here. A taxi will cost around 40,000Rp from Jl Thamrin.

Museum Bank IndonesiaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pintu Besar Utara III; audio guides 50,000Rp; h8am-3.30pm Tue-Thu, 8-11.30am & 1-3.30pm Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)F

One of the nation's best, this museum is dedicated to the history of Indonesia from a loosely financial perspective, in a grand, expertly restored, neoclassical former bank headquarters that dates from the early 20th century. All the displays (including lots of zany audiovisuals) are slickly presented on flat-screens and engaging, with exhibits about the spice trade and the financial meltdown of 1997 (and subsequent riots) as well as a gallery dedicated to currency, with notes from virtually every country in the world.

Museum Sejarah JakartaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Also known as Museum Kesejarahan Jakarta, the Jakarta History Museum is housed in the old town hall of Batavia, a stately Dutch colonial structure that was once the epicentre of an empire. This bell-towered building, built in 1627, served the administration of the city and was also used by the city law courts. Today it’s a poorly presented museum of peeling plasterwork and lots of heavy, carved ebony and teak furniture from the Dutch period.

But you will find the odd exquisite piece, such as the stunning black granite sculpture of Kali, a Hindu goddess associated with death and destruction. There are long-standing plans to renovate the museum, but work had been delayed at the time of research.

Museum WayangMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-692 9560; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

This puppet museum has one of the best collections of wayang puppets in Java and its dusty cabinets are full of a multitude of characters from across Indonesia, as well as China, Vietnam, India, Cambodia and Europe. The building itself dates from 1912. There are free wayang performances here on Sunday at 10am. Be warned: we have received reports of a scam involving freelance guides who pressure people into making exorbitant purchases after a tour of the exhibits.

Museum Bank MandiriMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)F

In complete contrast to the polish and modernity at the Museum Bank Indonesia next door, this banking museum is all but empty, with echoing corridors and deserted tills. Nevertheless, it's fascinating to explore the interior of this fine art deco structure, marvelling at the marble counters and vintage counting machines, abacuses and colossal cast-iron safes.

Balai Seni RupaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Built between 1866 and 1870, the former Palace of Justice building is now a fine arts museum. It houses contemporary paintings with works by prominent artists, including Affandi, Raden Saleh and Ida Bagus Made. Part of the building is also a ceramics museum, with Chinese ceramics and Majapahit terracottas.

Gereja SionCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pangeran Jayakarta)F

Dating from 1695, this is the oldest remaining church in Jakarta. Also known as Gereja Portugis (Portuguese Church), it was built just outside the old city walls for slaves captured from Portuguese trading ports. The exterior of the church is very plain, but inside there are copper chandeliers, a baroque pulpit and the original organ.

Kota & Sunda Kelapa

1Sights

1Balai Seni RupaC3

2Gereja SionC3

3Jin De YuanB4

4Museum BahariA1

5Museum Bank IndonesiaB3

6Museum Bank MandiriB3

7Museum Sejarah JakartaB3

8Museum WayangB3

9Petak Sembilan Street MarketB4

10Toko MerahB3

11WatchtowerA1

5Eating

12Café BataviaB3

13HistoriaB3

14Kedai Seni DjakartéB3

15Santong Kuo Tieh 68B4

Warung Kota TuaB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

Café BataviaB3

7Shopping

16Mangga Dua MallD3

Sunda Kelapa

A kilometre north of Taman Fatahillah, the old port of Sunda Kelapa (admission 2000Rp) is full of magnificent Makassar schooners (pinisi). The dock scene here has barely changed for centuries, with porters unloading cargo from sailing ships by hand and trolley, though it's far less busy today.

Sadly, the atmospheric Pasar Ikan (Fish Market) – always a tourist favourite – was destroyed by fire and relocated, but if you make your way to the Museum Bahari you will likely make the acquaintance of Pak Catur (%0852 1763 4281), who will offer a motorbike ride through the working harbour and into the nearby Muara Baru slum, as well as a buzz through Glodok that you won't soon forget. This is the real, manic, overpopulated Jakarta, bursting with humanity and pain. It's not for the fainthearted. As Pak Catur says, 'price depend on you'.

Museum BahariMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumbahari.org; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Near the entrance to Sunda Kelapa, several old VOC warehouses (dating back to 1652) have been converted into the Museum Bahari. This is a good place to learn about the city’s maritime history, and though the wonderful old buildings (some renovated) are echoingly empty, there are some good information panels (in English and Bahasa Indonesia).

Under the heavy wooden beams of the vast old storage premises are various random exhibits: a sextant (used for astronomical navigation), various traditional boats from around Indonesia, the shell of a giant clam, plenty of pickled fish and a lighthouse lamp or two. The sentry posts outside are part of the old city wall.

WatchtowerHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 5000Rp)

Just before the entrance to the Museum Bahari is a watchtower, built in 1839 to sight and direct traffic to the port. There are good views over the harbour, but opening hours are haphazard – ask for the caretaker if it is closed.

Glodok

The neighbourhood of Glodok, the traditional enclave of the Chinese community, is an archetypal downtown district full of bustling lanes, street markets, a shabby mall or two and some of the world’s most decadent nightlife. It was also the site of the terrible riots of May and November 1998, which reduced huge swathes of the area to ash and rubble.

Most of the fun here is simply experiencing the (very) Chinese vibe of the place, eating some dumplings and browsing the myriad stalls and stores selling everything from traditional medicine to dodgy DVDs.

Jin De YuanBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Dharma Bhakti Temple; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jindeyuan.org; Jl Kemenangan III 13)F

This large Chinese Buddhist temple compound dates from 1755 and is one of the most important in the city. The main structure has an unusual roof crowned by two dragons eating pearls, while the interior is richly atmospheric: dense incense and candle smoke waft over Buddhist statues, ancient bells and drums, and some wonderful calligraphy. Unfortunately recent Chinese New Year celebrations – including fireworks – set fire to half of the original structure. It was undergoing reconstruction when we visited.

Petak Sembilan Street MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Be sure to wander down the impossibly narrow Petak Sembilan street market off Jl Pancoran, lined with crooked houses with red-tiled roofs. It’s a total assault on the senses, with skinned frogs and live bugs for sale next to an open sewer.

Central Jakarta

1Top Sights

1Museum NasionalA3

1Sights

2Emanuel ChurchC3

3Gedung PancasilaC3

4Gereja Katerdral JakartaC2

5Lapangan BantengC2

6Mahkamah AgungD2

7Mesjid IstiqlalC2

8Ministry of Finance BuildingD2

9MonasB3

10SDN Menteng 1 SchoolB7

4Sleeping

11Alila JakartaB1

12Gondia International GuesthouseC5

13Hotel Indonesia KempinskiA6

14Ibis Budget HotelD6

15Six DegreesD6

5Eating

16Lara DjonggrangC6

17Por Que NoB6

18VietopiaD5

19Warung DaunD6

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Bakoel KoffieD5

21Dua NyonyaD5

22Kunstkring PaleisC5

3Entertainment

23Taman Ismail MarzukiD5

7Shopping

24Flea MarketD7

25Grand IndonesiaA6

26Plaza IndonesiaA6

Central Jakarta

If a centre for this sprawling city had to be chosen, then Merdeka Square (Lapangan Merdeka) would be it. This huge grassy expanse is home to Sukarno’s monument to the nation, and is surrounded by a couple of museums and some fine colonial buildings.

oMuseum NasionalMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-381 1551; www.museumnasional.or.id; Jl Merdeka Barat 12; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat-Sun)

The National Museum, built in 1862, is the best of its kind in Indonesia and an essential visit. The enormous collection begins around an open courtyard stacked with magnificent millennia-old statuary including a colossal 4.5m stone image of a Bhairawa king from Rambahan in Sumatra, who is shown trampling on human skulls. The ethnology section is superb, with Dayak puppets and wooden statues from Nias sporting beards (a sign of wisdom) plus some fascinating textiles.

Over in the spacious new wing there are four floors with sections devoted to the origin of mankind in Indonesia, including a model of the Flores ‘hobbit’. There’s also a superb display of gold treasures from Candi Brahu in Central Java: glittering necklaces, armbands and a bowl depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

The Indonesian Heritage Society organises free English tours of the National Museum, at 10.30am on Tuesdays, and on Thursdays at 10.30am and 1.30pm. Tours are also available in French, Japanese and Korean and at other times; consult the website for the latest schedule.

Lapangan BantengAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Banteng Sq)

Just east of Merdeka Sq, Lapangan Banteng has some of Jakarta’s best colonial architecture. The twin-spired Catholic cathedral ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Katedral 7B) was built in 1901. Directly opposite is Jakarta’s principal place of Muslim worship. The striking, modernist Mesjid Istiqlal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran I), highlighted by geometrically grated windows, was designed by Catholic architect Frederich Silaban and completed in 1978. The mosque has five levels, representing the five pillars of Islam; its dome is 45m across and its minaret tops 90m.

During Ramadan more than 200,000 worshippers can be accommodated here. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome. You have to sign in first and then you’ll be shown around by an English-speaking guide (who will expect a tip).

To the east of Lapangan Banteng is the Mahkamah Agung (Supreme Court; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), built in 1848, and next door is the colonial Ministry of Finance Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off JI Dr Wahidin), formerly the Witte Huis (White House), which dates from 1809 and was the administrative centre for the Dutch.

To the southwest is Gedung Pancasila ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pejambon), which is an imposing neoclassical building built in 1830 as the Dutch army commander’s residence. It later became the meeting hall of the Volksraad (People’s Council), but is best known as the place where Sukarno made his famous Pancasila speech in 1945, laying the foundation for Indonesia’s constitution. Just west along Jl Pejambon from Gedung Pancasila is the Emanuel Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pejambon), another classic building dating from 1893.

MonasMONUMENT

(Monumen Nasional; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Merdeka Sq; museum entry 5,000Rp, to reach the top 10,000Rp; h8.30am-5pm, closed last Mon of month)

Ingloriously dubbed ‘Sukarno’s final erection’, this 132m-high National Monument, which rises into the shroud of smog and towers over Merdeka Sq, is both Jakarta’s principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former president. Begun in 1961, Monas was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Suharto. The monument is constructed from Italian marble, and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 35kg of gold leaf.

Entrance to the monument is via an underground tunnel behind it as you approach from the park entrance.

Textile MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0331; www.museumtekstiljakarta.com; Jl Aipda K S Tubun 2-4; admission 10,000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Very much a worthwhile visit if you've any interest in weavings and fabrics, this museum houses a collection of around 2000 precious textiles, including hundreds of batik pieces, both antique and contemporary, lots of looms and a garden containing plants used for natural dyes. It's about 2km southwest of Merdeka Sq, and not easily reached by public transport.

OBAMA IN JAKARTA

Barack Obama moved to Jakarta in 1967 following his mother's marriage to Lolo Soetoro, an Indonesian geographer; the couple met while studying at the University of Hawaii. Obama lived for four years in the Indonesian capital, including a period in the exclusive central suburb of Menteng, where he attended the SDN Menteng 1 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) government-run school. The school is still going strong and there’s a plaque at the front gate, as well as a Barry statue in the yard, commemorating its most famous alumnus.

A popular child, he was nicknamed ‘Barry’ by his fellow students. It’s been reported that he declared an ambition to become president while at this school. Obama lived close by on Jl Taman Amir Hamzah, in a handsome terracotta-tiled Dutch villa with art deco–style windows.

When asked if he missed anything from his time in the country, Obama, who speaks Bahasa Indonesia, said he dreamed of ‘bakso (meatball soup), nasi goreng (fried rice) and rambutan (a red fruit similar to lychee)’.

On his return to the city as president in 2010, he confessed, 'I barely recognise it. When I first came here in 1967, everyone rode on becaks' (bicycle-rickshaws).

2Activities

Massage

Jakarta has massage establishments that range from ultra-luxe spas to dodgy set-ups that are fronts for brothels. The hygienic and affordable massage and sauna facilities at Bersih Sehat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 0204; www.bersihsehat.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 106; treatments from 70,000Rp; h10am-9pm) are highly recommended.

For a really memorable experience, head to Jamu Traditional Spa (%021-765 9691; www.jamutraditionalspa.com; Jl Cipete VIII/94B, Cipete; massage & treatments 95,000-1,000,000Rp; h8am-9pm) in south Jakarta, which uses jamu (Indonesian herbs with medicinal and restorative properties) for its treatments.

TTours

Numerous travel agencies offer daily tours of Jakarta. Bookings can be made through the tourist office and major hotels.

Hidden Jakarta ToursTOUR

(%0812 803 5297; www.realjakarta.blogspot.com; US$50 per person)

Want to see the other Jakarta, away from air-conditioned malls? Jakarta Hidden offers tours of the city's traditional kampung, the urban villages of the poor. These warts-and-all tours take you along trash-choked riverways, into cottage industry factories and allow you to take tea in residents' homes.

JAKARTA FOR CHILDREN

Ancol Luar BiasaAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6471 0497; www.ancol.com; basic admission incl entry to Pasar Seni 25,000Rp; h24hr)

On Jakarta's bayfront, the people’s ‘Dreamland’ is a landscaped recreation complex popular with families. It has amusement rides and sporting and leisure facilities, including bowling, but gets extremely crowded on weekends. Prime attractions include the Pasar Seni (Art Market), which has sidewalk cafes, craft shops, cable-car rides, art exhibitions, and live jazz every Friday, and the Atlantis Water Adventure water-park complex, which costs an additional 150,000Rp to enjoy a wave pool, waterslides and a slide pool, plus artificial beaches.

The Gondola, a cable-car system, provides great views of the bay. The huge Dunia Fantasi (Fantasy Land; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6471 2000; Mon-Fri 190,000Rp, Sat & Sun 270,000Rp; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) fun park includes the Halilintar twisted roller-coaster ride and Kora Kora (swinging ship). Marine mammal lovers, be warned. Sea World lives here too.

Koridor 5 of the busway runs to Ancol. A taxi will cost around 70,000Rp from Jl Thamrin.

zFestivals & Events

Independence DayCULTURAL

Indonesia’s independence is celebrated on 17 August; the parades in Jakarta are the biggest in the country.

Java Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.javajazzfestival.com)

Held at the Jakarta Convention Center in early March in Senayan. Attracts acclaimed international artists, including jazz heavyweights like Ramsey Lewis and Brad Mehldau. Crossover pop stars such as Bobby McFerrin and Meshell Ndegeocello played in 2015.

Jakarta AnniversaryFAIR

The 22nd of June marks the establishment of the city in 1527. Celebrated with fireworks and the Jakarta Fair.

Jalan Jaksa Street FairCULTURAL

Features Betawi dance, theatre and music, art and photography. Held for one week in August.

Indonesian Dance FestivalDANCE

(www.facebook.com/IndonesianDanceFestival)

Features contemporary and traditional performances at the Taman Ismail Marzuki in November.

JiFFestFILM

(Jakarta International Film Festival; %021-3005 6090; www.muvila.com/jiffest)

Internationally sponsored and lauded, Indonesia’s premier film festival is held in November and December.

South Jakarta

4Sleeping

1DharmawangsaA4

2Fave HotelB4

3Kemang IconB4

5Eating

4Cantina 18B3

5Darling Rice ClubB3

6D'FestB4

7Kampung KemangB4

8Parc 19B4

9PayonB4

10ToscanaB5

11TrediciB3

Warung TurkiB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

12365 EcobarB4

13Eastern PromiseB4

14Potato HeadC2

15Potato Head GarageB2

16Tree HouseB4

17X2A2

3Entertainment

18PhoenixB3

7Shopping

19ColonyB4

20PasarayaA3

PerimterB4

PeriplusB4

21Plaza SenayanA2

4Sleeping

Backpackers be prepared: Jakarta lacks good budget options, so book ahead or consider a midrange option (which are plentiful). At the luxury end of the market, there are some excellent deals with four-star hotels available from as low as US$70 per night.

Jalan Jaksa Area

Once Jakarta's backpacking hub, though travellers are thin on the ground these days, probably because most hotels on Jl Jaksa are grungy if not sleazy. That said, you will find a selection of restaurants and bars, as well as some terrific midrange options on nearby Jl Wayid Hasim and Jl Sabang. The location, near Jl Thamrin (for the busway) and Gambir train station remains excellent.

Jalan Jaksa Area

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Bersih SehatB2

4Sleeping

2Hostel 35C1

3Hotel CiptaC2

4Kosenda HotelA2

5Max OneB1

5Eating

6Daoen SirihC1

7GarudaA2

8KL VillageC1

9Sate Khas SenayanC1

10Saung GrenvilB2

11Shanghai Blue 1920A1

6Drinking & Nightlife

Awan LoungeA2

12Kopi Oey SabangB1

3Entertainment

13Jaya PubA2

Hostel 35GUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0331; Jl Kebon Sirih Barat I 35; r with fan/air-con 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)

A good option for the price. The clean, if aged, tiled rooms have high ceilings and come with breakfast, and the lobby/lounge area with rattan sofas is inviting and decorated with fine textiles and tasteful photography.

Max OneHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-316 6888; www.maxonehotels.com; Jl Agus Salim 24; r from 550,000Rp; aiW)

A moderately priced hip hotel. Rooms are smallish but nicely styled, with a pleasing pastel colour scheme. We love the steep weekend discounts, in-house minimart and excellent location.

Hotel CiptaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 0424; www.ciptahotel.com; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 53; r 580,000Rp; aW)

Looking like a cross between an alpine mountain lodge and a pagoda, Cipta is not fabulous, but its clean, carpeted rooms with wood furnishings are comfortable and bright enough, and bathrooms sparkle. Weekend discounts plummet to 330,000Rp. If you can book at that price, you'll be thrilled.

oKosenda HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 6868; kosendahotel.com; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 127; r from 750,000Rp; aW)

Hip but not overbearing, minimalist and modern but comfortable, rooms aren't huge but they are very clean and tastefully designed with wall-length built-in desks, floating beds and glass-box baths. Prices are a steal when offered on booking websites. It does a lovely breakfast buffet, makes excellent coffee, has a good 24-hour restaurant in the lobby and a superb rooftop bar.

Cikini & Menteng

Cikini (south) and Menteng (southeast) of Jaksa have a selection of decent midrange hotels, a guesthouse or two and some excellent restaurants and cafes.

Six DegreesHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 1657; www.jakarta-backpackers-hostel.com; Jl Cikini Raya 60B-C, Cikini; dm 125,000-160,000Rp, d 280,000Rp; aiW)

Set in a mini-mall, this hostel – run by a helpful and friendly Irish/English/Sumatran team – remains popular with travellers. There's a relaxed, sociable atmosphere, a pool table and large-screen TV room, a guests' kitchen and roof garden. Dorms are tight but clean; breakfast is included. It's tricky to find, but located right opposite the Ibis Budget Hotel.

Gondia International GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 9221; gondiaguesthouse.com; Jl Gondangdia Kecil 22; r 400,000-500,000Rp; a)

This modest-looking guesthouse, with hostel-esque signage, occupies a leafy garden plot on a quiet suburban street and has spacious tiled rooms. Breakfast included.

Ibis Budget HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3190 8188; www.ibis.com; Jl Cikini Raya 75; r from 571,000Rp; aWs)

A modern 3-star hotel in a good location. It's institutional but clean, with flat-screen TVs and wi-fi. Downstairs there are several restaurants, a minimart and you'll find a huge pool right behind the hotel.

oHotel Indonesia KempinskiHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2358 3800; kempinski.com; Jl Thamrin 1; r from 2,500,000Rp; aiWs)

Formerly Hotel Indonesia, Jakarta's original luxury hotel, this renovated and re-imagined beauty still delivers the glamour. Upper-level rooms are huge with tasteful rugs and black wood floors, sumptuous marble baths, glass desks, ergonomic desk chairs, wood furnishings, quality linens and firm beds.

Factor in the rooftop pool, gym and spa, the decadent buffet breakfast, and its location on the traffic circle, and you have an ideal Jakarta launchpad. Best rates are online via booking websites or through local travel agents.

Other Areas

Packer LodgeHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-629 0162; www.thepackerlodge.com; Jl Kermunian IV 20-22; dm 145,000-155,000Rp, s 205,000-215,000Rp, d 310,000Rp; aW)

The new cute hostel on the block, this self-annointed, owner-operated boutique hostel set in Glodok offers hip, Ikea-chic environs and plenty of amenities close to Kota. Choose among the four- or eight-bed dorms where the bunks are curtained pods with electrical outlets, lights and USB charger. Earplugs included.

The singles and doubles have less personality but more privacy. All share common Western baths and a spacious common kitchen. Activities and smiles abound.

Fave HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-718 1320; favehotels.com; Jl Kemang 16, Kemang; r from 421,200Rp)

Modern and creative, this edition of the Indonesian, three-star micro-hotel offers small but liveable quarters with room service, pre-fab furnishings, plush linens and not much else. Still solid value.

oKemang IconBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-719 7989; www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon; Jl Kemang Raya I; r from 1,751,000Rp; aiWs)

Terrific all-suite hip hotel with gorgeous rooms, kitted out with cutting-edge design and state-of-the-art bathrooms. It has a rooftop lap pool, a fine restaurant and the staff go the extra mile to help out guests. The atrium lobby is fabulous, and so is the cool art gallery, Perimeter. It's located in the heart of the happening Kemang area.

DharmawangsaHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-725 8181; www.the-dharmawangsa.com; Jl Brawijaya Raya 26; r from US$253; aiWs)

One of the city addresses, this luxurious hotel exudes style and class, with huge rooms and unmatched standards of service (each guest is assigned a private butler!). The restaurants and leisure facilities – including two pools, a fine spa, and squash and tennis courts – are also outstanding.

Alila JakartaHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-231 6008; www.alilahotels.com/jakarta; Jl Pecenongan 7-17; r from 1,090,000Rp; aiWs)

An excellent modern hotel, in the north of the city not far from most of the sights. The attention to detail is impressive; the aromatherapy oil wafting across the stylish reception area sets a great initial impression. The outdoor pool, gym and restaurants are excellent.

5Eating

Jakarta is a world-class eating destination. You'll find an amazing choice including oh-so refined Javanese imperial cuisine, hit-the-spot street grub and, if you're pining for something familiar, you can find Western food from gourmet French to fish and chips.

Two excellent street-food hotspots are Jl Pecenongan (about 500m north of Monas) for sate babi (pork satay) and fresh seafood, and Jl Sabang (just west of Jl Jaksa) for sate ayam (chicken satay) with lontong (sticky rice) and other delicacies.

Shopping malls are also good tucker terrain; many have inexpensive food courts.

Jalan Jaksa Area

Jl Jaksa has a crop of backpacker-geared cafes and many authentic places on nearby streets.

Daoen SirihINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kebon Sirih 41-43; meals 12,000-25,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

Non-touristy and a short stroll northwest of Jl Jaksa, this large, bamboo-roofed, open-sided food court has a wide selection of cook-shacks offering dishes such as nasi goreng kambing (spicy rice with goat) and sate Madura (skewered meat with sweet soy sauce), as well as noodles and espresso.

KL VillageMALAY, INDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 5219; Jl Jaksa 21-23; mains from 23,000Rp; h7am-11pm Sun-Wed, 24hr Thu-Sat; W)

Ever-popular Malaysian-style place that serves up inexpensive grub such as black-pepper chicken, canai (Malay-Indian bread) and martabak (stuffed pancake). If you're suffering after a long flight (or a long night), try one of the health-kick juices: 'heart and the brain' or 'sugar balance'.

Sate Khas SenayanINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 6238; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 31A; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm; W)

Upmarket air-conditioned restaurant at the northern end of Jl Jaksa. It is renowned for its superb sate – skewers of chicken, beef and lamb – plus Indonesian favourites such as ayam goreng kremes (fried chicken in batter) and gurame bakar (grilled fish).

oGarudaINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6262 9440; Jl Hayam Wuruk 100; meals from 100,000Rp; h24hr; W)

A smoky, fluorescent-lit, all-day, all-night depot of locally loved Padang food goodness, throbbing with Bollywood tunes and Indo-pop, and packed with locals. Little dishes of tempting flavours are piled on your table with lightning speed: jackfruit curry, chilli prawns, tempe penyet (fried tempe with spicy sauce), rendang (beef coconut curry), potato and corn fritters. All of it made fresh.

If you touch one part, you buy it all, so prices add up. But it's so worth it.

Shanghai Blue 1920CHINESE, INDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 8690; www.tuguhotels.com/shblue; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 77-79; mains 50,000-130,000Rp; h12.30pm-11pm)

Outstanding masakan peranakan (Chinese-influenced Indonesian cuisine) served in a room loaded with flamboyant furnishings, some rescued from an old Batavia teahouse. Standouts from the menu include drunken shrimp cooked with traditional Chinese wine, and crispy fish with mango and sweet chilli sauce.

Saung GrenvilSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0333; www.saung-grenvil.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 87; meals 100,000-180,000Rp)

One of three locations in the city, and renowned for its outstanding seafood, particularly the Padang-style chilli crab, though there are plenty of other seafood options. Get an order of fried rolls to soak up that Padang sauce.

Kota, Sunda Kelapa & Glodok

Santong Kuo Tieh 68CHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-692 4716; Jl Pancoran; 10 dumplings 20,000Rp; h10am-9pm)

You'll see cooks preparing fried and steamed Chinese pork dumplings out front of this humble but highly popular little place. The bakso ikan isi (fish balls) are also good.

Warung Kota TuaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; meals 20,000-25,000Rp; h8am-8pm)

On the west side of Taman Fatahillah square, this semi-renovated old warehouse (an open-sided space with exposed brick walls and artwork) is a relaxed location for a reasonably priced meal, coffee, tea or juice. Try the ayam bakar (grilled chicken), mie medan (Sumatran noodles) or nasi cap cai (rice with mixed vegetables).

Kedai Seni DjakartéINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 17; mains 21,000-45,000Rp; h9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

One of several similar places around Taman Fatahillah square, this is installed in the basement of an old Dutch building. You can eat inside under the ceiling fans or sweat it out on the outdoor tables. The cheap and tasty dishes are classic Indonesian comfort food (think nasi goreng).

oHistoriaINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3176 0555; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; mains 35,000-73,000Rp; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Historia's tasty dishes from around the archipelago include fried fish with a Sumatran sambal (Ikan goreng sambal adaliman), Javanese mixed rice (nasi campur), and all manner of oxtail – in soup, grilled, deep fried or braised with ground chilli. Served in hip, tiled, warehouse environs with soaring ceilings and an attached bar where DJs spin and bands rock.

Café BataviaINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-691 5531; cafebatavia.com; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 14; mains 75,000-190,000Rp; W)

This historic restaurant overlooks Taman Fatahillah square in Kota, the old Dutch quarter. Its old parlour floors, marble tabletops, art deco furnishings and jazz on the hi-fi make it an essential stop for an atmospheric drink or a long lunch. It can be quiet in the evening.

Cikini & Menteng

VietopiaVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 5893; Jl Cikini Raya 33; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; h11.30am-10.30pm; Wv)

A stylish yet humble oasis on an otherwise relentlessly traffic-clogged drag, this authentic Vietnamese place offers delicious, moderately priced and delicately spiced cooking, including flavoursome pho bo (beef broth) and other classics from Vietnam. Vegetarian menu available.

Warung DaunINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 0909; www.warungdaun.com; Jl Cikini 26; 26,000-98,000Rp; h11:30am-9pm)

Eating Indonesian is frequently tasty, but often unhealthy thanks to MSG, low-quality oil and a dearth of organic ingredients. This re-imagined warung (food stall) attempts to right the path. Expect delectable Sundanese and Chinese Indonesian dishes, prepared using organic ingredients whenever possible, and presented tastefully.

oPor Que NoTAPAS$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 1950; Jl Cokroaminoto 91; dishes 30,000-100,000Rp; h5pm-midnight; W)

A tucked-away, super-stylish rooftop tapas bar on the 5th floor of the De Ritz Building in Menteng, and popular with those who know. It grills and slices tenderloin, does a magnificent squid-ink paella, prawns sauteed with chilli and garlic, and eggplant fried with honey and truffle oil. And the churro ice-cream sandwiches? Best save room for dessert.

oLara DjonggrangINDONESIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 3252; www.tuguhotels.com/laradjonggrang; Jl Teuku Cik Ditiro 4; mains 48,000-108,000Rp; h12.30pm-11pm; W)

While many Jakartan restaurants lack atmosphere, that accusation could never be levelled at Lara Djonggrang – as you enter it's easy to think you've stumbled across some lost temple. One that serves perfectly executed and creatively presented imperial Indonesian cuisine from across the archipelago.

It offers Makassar-style squid and crab, Alor-style tamarind shrimp, and lobster cooked like they do in Aceh, with two kinds of chilli. There's a good wine list and staff are well informed and efficient. Prices are quite affordable considering the quality. Oh, and the bar is in fact created from an actual 200-year-old temple, which was set to be demolished until it was deconstructed and rebuilt here.

Kemang

Kemang is a good choice for a night on the town, with some great restaurants, bars and nightlife, including many exclusive places. For inexpensive grub check out D'Fest, which has 50 or so stalls.

D'FestFOOD COURT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kemang Raya 19C; mains 20,000-60,000Rp; h5pm-midnight)

Very sociable and popular open-air food court complete with stylish sofa seating and an array of international and local food stalls. It has Middle Eastern kebab joints, lots of Japanese options, soto (soup) places, roti canai (Malay-Indian flaky flatbread), plus a beerhouse. There's often live music here on weekend nights.

Kampung KemangFOOD COURT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kemang Raya 18; meals 50,000Rp; h11am-11pm)

A popular Kemang food court with permanent fried chicken and ramen kitchens and a handful of smaller stalls too, most specialising in Indonesian comfort food. It buzzes at night.

PayonINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-719 4826; www.facebook.com/payon.restaurant; Jl Kemang Raya 17; mains 23,000-130,000Rp; h10.30am-10.30pm)

Something of a secret garden where you dine under a delightful open pagoda surrounded by greenery. Chefs prepare authentic Javanese cuisine from an open kitchen, and many dishes are served on banana leaves, echoing the rural Indonesian flavour.

Warung TurkiTURKISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2905 5898; Jl Kemang Raya 18A; mains 45,000-145,000Rp; hnoon-9.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Upscale Turkish fare prepared in a wood-fired clay oven and served in a high-design shell spanning three floors. They slow roast lamb and chicken, stuff their homemade bread and layer sinful baklava. Enjoy yours on the enclosed rooftop patio, with its glass ceiling dangling with lanterns.

Parc 19INDONESIAN, FUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-719 9988; www.parc19.com; Jl Taman Kemang 19; mains 70,000-240,000Rp; h10am-midnight)

The industrial design, complete with a brick-and-wood bar and reclaimed wood seating, outdoes the menu, which wanders from pizza to kebabs to Indonesian favourites including a Balinese duck. But it's still worth it for the ambience.

ToscanaITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-718 1217; www.toscanajakarta.com; Jl Kemang Raya 120; mains 33,000-303,000Rp; h5.30-11pm)

Elegant Italian place renowned for its pizzas (baked in a wood-fired oven), pasta and risotto and great fish dishes (try the pan-fried grouper with potato and black olives). Also boasts a good selection of Tuscan wines.

Senopati

An upmarket restaurant row in south Jakarta stretches from Jl Senopati to Jl Suryo and lacks the expat overwhelm of Kemang. The high-speed traffic makes a leisurely stroll next to impossible, however.

Darling Rice ClubINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suryo 19; mains 30,000-70,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)

Set above a showroom of cool vintage bikes, motorcycles and cars, this gourmet warung serves mixed rice dishes in upmarket environs.

TrediciITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-720 4567; www.facebook.com/trediciristorante; Jl Suryo 42; mains 72,000-265,000Rp; h10.30am-10pm)

A slice of authentic Italy in manic Jakarta, this Senopati mainstay is popular among expats for thin-crust pizzas, homemade pasta, outstanding risotto and perfectly prepared steaks. It even serves prosciutto and melon. This is an Italian kitchen to seek out and explore and the wine list proves it. Grab a table on the patio and stay a while.

Cantina 18ITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2751 0539; www.cantina-18.com; Jl Suryo 25; mains 80,000-260,000Rp; h11am-11pm)

Three Italian pals from the motherland deliver upmarket Italian flavour with modern flare. They offer a terrific selection of antipasti and carpaccio and a selection of pasta and risotto dishes, as well as grilled seafood and delectable pork ribs in red wine sauce. The terrific food outdoes the chintzy design. Don't hold it against them.

6Drinking & Nightlife

If you’re expecting the capital of the world’s largest Muslim country to be a sober city with little in the way of drinking culture, think again. Bars are spread throughout the city, with casual places grouped around Jl Jaksa, fancy-pants rooftop lounge bars and beer gardens in central and south Jakarta and many more places in between. Cafe culture has really taken off in the last few years. All the malls have a Starbucks (or an Indo clone) selling extortionately priced coffee, but there are some very interesting and quirky local cafes emerging too.

The recent national crackdown on selling beer and alcohol has cost some restaurants their liquor licence and the ban on selling beer from minimarts was still in effect in Jakarta in 2015, even while the law was reversed in Bali. We'd heard of long-time expats having to purchase their home Bintang stash from the storage area of their favourite supermarket. On top of that, the so-called no-fun initiative capped closing time of all bars and clubs at midnight, although enforcement has been lax thus far.

Bars

oAwan LoungeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.awanlounge.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 127; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Sat & Sun)

Set on the top floor of Kosenda Hotel, here is a lovely rooftop garden bar that manages to be both understated and dramatic. There's a vertical garden, ample tree cover, plenty of private nooks flickering with candlelight and a vertigo-inducing glass skylight that plummets nine floors down.

It has a tasty bar menu, electronica thumps at a perfect volume, and the crowd is mixed local and expat. Weekends can get overly crowded. Midweek it's an ideal date-night rendezvous.

Potato HeadBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ptthead.com/jakarta; Pacific Place Mall, Jl Sudirman 52-53; W)

Brilliant warehouse-style bar-bistro with remarkable artistic decor (including a vertical garden, lots of statement art and vintage seating) that also promotes music and cultural events. Great cocktails, great grub, great concept. Check the website for upcoming shows.

365 EcobarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ecobar.co.id; Jl Kemang Raya; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

Occupying a minimalist, corrugated-tin prefab structure with walls scrawled in evocative street art, an island bar huddled with colourful bar stools and rotating DJs, this is the new cool spot in Kemang and it draws a regular, mixed Indo and expat crowd.

Tree HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kemang 72; h4pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 3am Fri-Sat; W)

A great neighbourhood bar, Tree House is an intimate hang-out on a Kemang back street with rotating art exhibitions and classic funk, soul and hip-hop on the sound system.

Eastern PromisePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-7179 0151; www.easternpromise-jakarta.com; Jl Kemang Raya 5; W)

A classic British-style pub in the heart of Kemang, with a pool table, welcoming atmosphere and filling international and Indian grub. Service is prompt and friendly, the beer’s cold and there’s live music on weekends. It’s a key older expat hang-out.

Kunstkring PaleisCAFE, COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 0899; tuguhotels.com; Jl Teuku Umar 1)

High tea or cocktails? You can have both, plus a divine Indonesian dinner in between at this re-imagined Dutch colonial, once Batavia's fine arts centre (it showed works of Van Gogh, Picasso, Chagall and Gauguin in its day). It remains a room filled with art.

The main Pangeran Diponegoro Room, replete with wall-sized canvases, is where you'll have traditional tea service with an Indonesian twist. Or come a bit later and enjoy a drink in the red-lit Susie Wong lounge, named and inspired by the infamous Hong Kong madam.

Cafes

Café BataviaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafebatavia.com; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 14)

This classy restaurant doubles as an evocative place for a cocktail, a cool Bintang or a coffee.

Kopi Oey SabangCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kopioey.com; Jl Agus Salim 16A; drinks from 15,000-27,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W)

Gorgeous little cafe, modelled on an old Chinese teahouse, complete with antique tiles and vintage prints on the walls, marble table tops and a great selection of drinks. It serves Vietnamese coffee, turmeric tea and snacks that reflect Indonesia's heritage, including Dutch croquettes and Padang-style roti.

Dua NyonyaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.duanyonyacafe.com; Jl Cikini Raya 27; h11am-10pm)

Primarily a cafe, Dua Nyonya is an intimate place on two levels that serves fine Indonesian coffee (from Bali, Toraja and Aceh) and traditional food including rice dishes such as nasi bebek goreng keramat (fried rice with duck). Classical music and art add to the ambience.

Bakoel KoffieCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cikini Raya 25; h9am-11pm; W)

Occupying a fine old Dutch building, twirling with ceiling fans, this elegant (if pricey) cafe offers strong coffee using beans from across the archipelago. Snacks and cakes are also served, along with nasi goreng and ayam bakar (grilled chicken).

A CUP OF JAVA

Java is so synonymous with coffee, one of the world’s favourite drugs – sorry, drinks – that in some countries the term java has become a catchphrase for a cup of the hot brown stuff.

Coffee was introduced to Indonesia by the Dutch, who initially founded plantations around Jakarta, Sukabumi and Bogor. Due to the country’s excellent coffee-growing conditions, plantations began springing up across Java, and even in parts of Sulawesi and Sumatra. Early on, the prominent coffee was arabica; arabica coffees were traditionally named after the port they were exported from, hence the common worldwide terms of java and mocha (from Yemen) for coffee.

Commonly thought of as a bean, coffee is actually a fruit pit or berry. Around 2000 berries are needed to make one pound of coffee. The most expensive coffee in the world, fetching anywhere between US$100 and US$600 a pound, is kopi luwak, a fully flavoured coffee produced in Java (it is also exported from the Philippines, Vietnam and southern India). What makes kopi luwak – also known as civet coffee – so expensive is the process by which it gains its unusually rich flavour. The local palm civet, a cat-like animal, gorges itself on coffee berries and passes the inner pit through its digestive tract unharmed. Along the way the pits are affected by the animal’s stomach enzymes and come out the other end smelling of roses (or rich coffee in this case). The coffee has been appetisingly nicknamed ‘cat poop’ or ‘monkey poo’ coffee.

Today, Indonesia is the fourth-largest producer of coffee in the world. Robusta has replaced arabica as the leading coffee of choice, currently making up some 75% of the country’s exports. For further reading on Indonesia’s love affair with coffee, pick up a copy of A Cup of Java by Gabriella Teggia and Mark Hanusz.

Clubs

Potato Head GarageCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-5797 3330; www.pttgarage.com; Jl Sudirman 52-53; cover charge varies; h11am-1am)

Leave it to the Potato Heads to convert an abandoned stadium into a massive thumping dance club, swirling with style. It serves food, and the decor is typically tasteful with a lean toward vintage, but this is first and foremost a dance spot where you and 1000 friends can get loose and rejoice in the night.

X2CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.x2club.net; Jl Asia Afrika 8, Plaza Senayan)

Huge upmarket club with a capacity to hold more than 2000. Expect a young crowd, futuristic lighting and three dance zones, though the music can be quite commercial.

CLUBBING IN JAKARTA

Jakarta has been one of Southeast Asia's biggest clubbing hotspots for decades, thanks to great venues (mostly dark and sleazy in the north of the city and polished and pricey in the south), internationally renowned DJs and bombastic sound systems.

Entrance is typically 50,000Rp to 100,000Rp, but includes a free drink. Clubs open around 9pm, and – up until recently – don't really get going until after midnight. However, at research time the new 'no-fun law' threatened to change all this, though nobody was quite sure what would happen. Clubs were functioning normally during write up, though attendance had slipped.

Take heart, there is always the underground scene set in Glodok, where clubs get so deep down and dirty that they make the UK's acid house scene of the 1980s seem like a teddy bear's picnic.

Online listings, such as www.indoclubbing.com, www.jakarta100bars.com and especially www.whatsnewjakarta.com, can all be helpful in planning a night out.

3Entertainment

Jakarta offers a range of traditional music, dance and theatre performances, as well as a solid live music scene: jazz combos, rock bands and singer-songwriters.

Cultural Performances

Museum Wayang holds wayang kulit and golek (puppet) performances on Sundays between 10am and 2pm.

Check the website of the Jakarta Arts Council (www.dkj.or.id) for event listings.

Taman Ismail MarzukiPERFORMING ARTS

(TIM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 7325; www.tamanismailmarzuki.com; Jl Cikini Raya 73)

Jakarta's premier cultural centre has a great selection of cinemas, theatres and exhibition spaces. Performances (such as Sundanese dance and gamelan music events) are always high quality and the complex has a couple of good casual restaurants too.

Live Music

Jazz lovers should check out www.jakartajazz.com for event listings.

Jaya PubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 5633; Jl Thamrin 12; h5pm-2am)

Conveniently located in the heart of town, this pub caters to an older crowd and showcases live bluesy rock and jazz artists. Also serves food.

PhoenixLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-722 1188; www.phoenixjakarta.com; Jl Wijaya I 25)

Formerly the Nine Muses Club, this upmarket European-style garden restaurant and lounge hosts acoustic performances on Wednesdays and Fridays, plus some jazz nights and DJs on Saturdays.

7Shopping

Jakarta has real retail appeal. The capital has handicrafts from across the nation, gargantuan malls stuffed with big brand and luxury labels (though prices are rarely a bargain) and lots of galleries full of interesting contemporary art and design goods. Jl Kebon Sirih Timur, just east of Jl Jaksa, has a number of shops that sell antiques and curios.

Because of the traffic in Jakarta, it is best not to try to cover too much ground. You could end up seeing a lot of exhaust fumes and no shop windows.

DON'T MISS

SALE SEASON

The annual Jakarta Great Sale (JGS) festival caters to the capital’s avid mall-goers, and plenty of tourists from Malaysia. Held at many shopping centres in Jakarta during June and July, it features slashed prices, midnight sales, competitions, and social and cultural activities.

Cikini & Menteng

The destination for glitzy malls, all manner of electronics and one hell of a flea market.

Flea MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Surabaya; h8am-4pm)

Jakarta’s famous flea market is in Menteng. It has woodcarvings, furniture, textiles, jewellery, old vinyl records and many (dubious) antiques. Bargain like crazy.

Plaza IndonesiaMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.plazaindonesia.com; Jl Thamrin 28-30; W)

This mall is centrally located and very classy, with a wide selection of stores that includes leading Indonesian design boutiques and the likes of Cartier and Lacroix. Check out Toko Ampuh for local medicines and remedies and Batik Karis for high-quality Indonesian batik. In the basement there’s an excellent, inexpensive food mall.

Grand IndonesiaMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.grand-indonesia.com; Jl Thamrin)

This luxury mall contains a tempting plethora of luxury fashion outlets, good local and international restaurants, and a cineplex.

PasarayaDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pasaraya.co.id; Jl Iskandarsyah II/2)

Opposite Blok M Mall, this department store has two huge floors that seem to go on forever and are devoted to batik and handicrafts from throughout the archipelago.

Mangga Dua MallMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Mangga Dua)

The place for electronics, DVDs and CDs (and even Russian watches) with numerous other malls in the area.

Kemang Area

Edgy art and trendy design for the expatriate and upwardly mobile Jakartan.

PerimeterARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.perimeterspace.com; Jl Kemang Raya; h10am-7pm)

Set in the uber-hip Kemang Icon lobby, where rotating shows included an exhibition from artist Agus Suwage on our visit. If the weird and evocative hold much allure, poke your head in to see what's on.

ColonyMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.colony6kemang.com; Jl Kemang Raya 6; h10am-10pm)

In a city splashed with splashy malls, each one bigger and glitzier than the last, this understated but tasteful shopping centre stands out. It has a Periplus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-718 7070; Jl Asia Afrika, level 3, Plaza Senayan; h9am-7pm) bookshop and a cool cafe called Liberica – attracting all the Indo and expat hipsters. There's also a shabu-shabu Japanese restaurant, a Pilates gym and more.

Other Areas

Plaza SenayanMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.plaza-senayan.com; Jl Asia Afrika; W)

Huge plaza with a cinema and stores including Marks & Spencer, a roster of big-bucks brands and lots of cafes.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

For such a huge city with obvious social problems, Jakarta is surprisingly safe. Violent crime is rare and tourists are seldom targeted. You should exercise more caution after dark, however, particularly late at night in Glodok and Kota, where there are some seedy clubs and bars. Robberies by taxi drivers have been known to take place, so always opt for reputable firms, such as the citywide Bluebird group.

Jakarta’s buses and trains can be hopelessly crowded, particularly during rush hours, and this is when pickpockets ply their trade.

Some foreign embassies warn against travel to Indonesia and especially Jakarta, though overall there’s little risk for travellers. That said, attacks against foreign interests have occurred and protests, although often peaceful, may still become violent with little warning.

Occasionally, bars and clubs have been smashed up by the city’s self-appointed morality police, the Jakarta-based Front Pembela Islam (FPI or Islamic Defenders Front), especially during Ramadan.

Emergency

Tourist PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-566000; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim)

On the 2nd floor of the Jakarta Theatre.

Immigration

Central Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION

( Direktorat Jenderal Imigrasi; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-522 4658; www.imigrasi.go.id; Jl HR Rasuna Said 8 & 9)

Provides information on visa extensions and renewals.

Internet Access

Free wi-fi is common in cafes, restaurants, hotels and malls. Internet cafes are not easily found in the central area.

Media

AJakarta Globe (www.thejakartaglobe.com) Excellent newspaper with stylish layout, quality reporting and illuminating features. The Jakarta coverage is impressive.

AJakarta Post (www.thejakartapost.com) English-language daily with news, views and cultural content.

Medical Services

Cikini HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %emergency 021-3899 7744, urgent care 021-3899 7777; www.rscikini.com; Jl Raden Saleh Raya 40)

Caters to foreigners and has English-speaking staff.

SOS Medika KlinikMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-750 6001; Jl Puri Sakti 10, Cipete; h7am-10pm)

Offers English-speaking GP appointments, dental care, and emergency and specialist healthcare services.

Money

You’re never far from an ATM in Jakarta.

BII BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Indonesia, Jl Thamrin; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)

In the basement level of Plaza Indonesia.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Gedung Kesenian I; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Occupying an octagonal building near Lapangan Banteng.

Tourist Information

Jakarta Visitor Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-316 1293, 021-314 2067; www.jakarta-tourism.go.id; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 9; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Inside the Jakarta Theatre building. A helpful office; the staff here can answer many queries and set you up with tours of West Java. Practical information can be lacking but it does have a good stock of leaflets and publications and a colour map. There’s also a desk at the airport.

Travel Agencies

Travel agencies in the Jl Jaksa area are convenient places to start looking for international flights and long-haul bus tickets. Domestic air tickets usually cost the same from a travel agency as from the airline, but discounts are sometimes available.

Websites

ALiving in Indonesia (www.expat.or.id) Geared at longer-term visitors; boasts everything from restaurant reviews and visa information to chat rooms.

AJakarta.go.id (www.jakarta-tourism.go.id) The Jakarta City Government Tourism Office’s official site; offers plenty of listings including transport and events.

AJakChat (www.jakchat.com) English-language forums where you can discuss everything from bars to politics.

ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia/jakarta) Planning advice, author recommendations, traveller reviews and insider tips.

8Getting There & Away

Jakarta is the main international gateway to Indonesia. It's also a major centre for domestic travel, with extensive bus, train, air and boat connections.

Air

All international flights and most domestic flights operate from Soekarno-Hatta International Airport. Consult www.jakartaairportonline.com for airport information and schedules.

AirAsiaAIRLINE

(%021-5050 5088; www.airasia.com)

Links Jakarta to Semarang, Yogyakarta and Bali. Also has cheap non-stop flights to Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.

CitilinkAIRLINE

(%080 4108 0808; www.citilink.co.id)

Flies to cities including Denpasar, Bandung, Malang, Banjarmasin, Pekanbaru and Surabaya.

GarudaAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.garuda-indonesia.com)

Indonesia's most established domestic carrier connects Jakarta with dozens of Indonesian cities including Denpasar, Yogyakarta, Makassar and Kupang, and offers limited international flights as well.

Lion Air/Wings AirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lionair.co.id)

Links Jakarta with cities all over the archipelago.

Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 4177 7777; www.sriwijayaair.co.id)

Links Jakarta with many cities in Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara and Papua.

Boat

Pelni shipping services operate on regular schedules to ports all over the archipelago. The Pelni ticketing office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6385 0960, 021-439 3106; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Angkasa 18) is northeast of the city centre in Kemayoran. Tickets (plus commission) can also be bought from the agent Kerta Jaya ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-345 1518; Jl Veteran I 27), opposite Mesjid Istiqlal.

Pelni ships all arrive at and depart from Pelabuhan Satu (dock No 1) at Tanjung Priok, 13km northeast of the city centre. Busway Koridor 12 provides a direct bus link; a taxi from Jl Jaksa is around 120,000Rp.

Bus

Jakarta’s four major bus terminals – Kalideres, Kampung Rambutan, Pulo Gadung and Lebak Bulus – are all a long way from the city centre. Take the TransJakarta busway to these terminals as the journey can take hours otherwise. Trains are generally a better alternative for travelling to/from Jakarta. Tickets (some including travel to the terminals) for the better buses can be bought from agencies.

AKalideres Serves points west of Jakarta. Buses run to Merak (35,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Labuan (50,000Rp, 3½ hours). A few buses go to Sumatra from Kalideres, but most depart from Pulo Gadung terminal. Take busway Koridor 3 to get there.

AKampung Rambutan Mainly handles buses to points south and southwest of Jakarta such as Bogor (normal/air-con 12,000/20,000Rp, 45 minutes); Cianjur (air-con 35,000Rp, 2½ hours); Bandung (normal/air-con 50,000/60,000Rp, three hours); Pangandaran (85,000Rp to 90,000Rp, eight to nine hours) and Pelabuan Ratu (55,000Rp, four hours). Take busway Koridor 7 to get there.

APulo Gadung Buses to Bandung, Central and East Java, Sumatra, Bali and even Nusa Tenggara. Bandung buses travel the toll road (47,000Rp to 60,000Rp, three hours), as do the long-haul Yogyakarta coaches (200,000Rp to 260,000Rp, 12 hours). Sumatra is another long haul from Jakarta by bus, but destinations include Bengkulu (from 300,000Rp) and Palembang (from 350,000Rp). Take busway Koridor 2 or 4 to get the terminal.

ALebak Bulus Long-distance deluxe buses to Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Bali; take Koridor 8 to get here.

Minibus

Door-to-door travel minibuses are not a good option in Jakarta because it can take hours to pick up or drop off passengers in the traffic jams. Unless you've the patience of a saint, take a train, plane or bus.

Day TransBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2967 6767; www.daytrans.co.id; Jl Thamrin; hhourly 6am-8pm)

Hourly minibuses to Bandung (110,000Rp to 125,000Rp) from Jl Thamrin.

Train

Jakarta’s four main train stations are quite central, making trains the easiest way out of the city. The most convenient and important is Gambir station, on the eastern side of Merdeka Sq, a 15-minute walk from Jl Jaksa. Gambir handles express trains to Bogor, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Solo, Semarang and Surabaya. Pasar Senen train station is to the east and mostly has economy-class trains while Tanah Abang station has economy trains to the west.

Check timetables online at www.kereta-api.co.id, or consult the helpful staff at the station’s information office. There’s a slightly pricey taxi booking desk inside Gambir station; the fare to Jl Jaksa is roughly 45,000Rp.

Popular destinations include the following:

ABogor Trains leave from Gambir and Jakarta Kota stations. Air-conditioned trains (one hour, 15,000Rp) leave roughly hourly; there are also much slower and dirtier ekonomi trains (two hours, 8000Rp). All trains are horribly crowded during rush hours.

ABandung There are frequent trains to Bandung along a scenic hilly track, but be sure to book in advance (especially on weekends and public holidays). Comfortable Argo Parahyangan services depart from Gambir train station six times daily (business 60,000Rp, executive 80,000Rp to 95,000Rp, 3¼ hours) between 5.55am and 8.25pm.

AYogyakarta and Solo From Gambir there are six daily exclusive-class trains (300,000Rp to 450,000Rp, 7¼ to nine hours) to Yogyakarta, leaving between 8am and 8.45pm; four of these continue to Solo, 45 minutes further on.

ASurabaya There are four daily exclusive-class trains between Gambir station and Surabaya (395,000Rp to 520,000Rp, 10½ to 11 hours).

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta international airport is 35km west of the city centre. A toll road links the airport to the city and the journey takes about an hour (longer during rush hour).

Damri (%021-550 1290, 021-460 3708; www.busbandara.com; 40,000Rp; hevery 15 to 30 minutes) airport buses run between 4am and 8pm between the airport and Gambir train station (near Jl Jaksa) and several other points in the city including Blok M, Tanjung Priok and Kampung Rambutan bus station. From Gambir train station to Jl Jaksa or Cikini, a taxi is around 45,000Rp, or you could walk (it’s just under 1km). Damri buses also run regularly to Bogor (55,000Rp to 75,000Rp, every 15 to 30 minutes). Taxis from the airport to Jl Thamrin/Jl Jaksa cost about 170,000Rp to 200,000Rp including tolls. Be sure to book via the official taxi desks, rather than using the unlicensed drivers outside.

Halim Perdana Kusuma airport is 11km south of the Cikini district and not served by pubic transport. A taxi from central Jakarta costs around 100,000Rp.

Bus

Jakarta has a good TransJakarta busway system, which has really sped up city travel in recent years. One of the most useful routes is Koridor 1, which runs north to Kota, past Monas and along Jl Sudirman.

Other buses are not very useful for visitors as they are much slower, hotter (no air-con) and crowded (pickpockets can be a problem). The tourist office can provide a map that plots the busway routes.

TRANSJAKARTA BUSWAY

TransJakarta is a network of clean, air-conditioned buses that run on busways (designated lanes that are closed to all other traffic). They are the quickest way to get around the city.

Most busways have been constructed in the centre of existing highways, and stations have been positioned at roughly 1km intervals. Access is via elevated walkways and each station has a shelter. Fifteen busway lines (called koridor) are up and running.

Tickets cost 3500Rp to 9000Rp payable before you board, which covers any destination in the network (regardless of how many koridor you use). Buses (running 5am to 10pm) are well maintained and usually not too crowded, though you may have to wait a while for a bus with seating space during peak hours.

The busway system has dozens of feeder routes from within and outside the city. It has been a great success, but as most middle- and upper-class Jakartans remain as addicted as ever to their cars, the city’s famous traffic jams are set to continue.

Car

Jakarta has branches of the major car-rental operators, including Avis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 2900; www.avis.co.id; Jl Diponegoro 25) and Trac Astra ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-650 6565; www.trac.astra.co.id; Jl Gaya Motor 1/10). Alternatively, enquire in travel agencies, as a vehicle with driver may be the most economical option.

The big operators charge about 800,000Rp per day with a driver (650,000Rp without), while private operators are often cheaper.

A number of the ‘transport’ guys who hang around on Jl Jaksa can also offer good deals.

Local Transport

Bajaj (pronounced ‘ba-jai’) are similar to Thai tuk-tuks. They are not that common these days and if you hire one it’s worth remembering that they are not allowed on many major thoroughfares.

Ojek are motorbike taxis. Drivers wait on busy street corners and usually wear a fluorescent-coloured vest. Getting about Jakarta on two wheels is a lot quicker than in a car, though it's obviously less safe and you're directly exposed to the city's air pollution. Negotiate a price first; a short ride will be about 20,000Rp. A new city-wide ojek network called Go-Jek (%021-725 1110; www.go-jek.com) has recently been introduced, using registered drivers and an app so you can book and pay directly from your smartphone, like Uber.

In Kota you'll find becak, pushbike rickshaws with an additional padded seat on the back. These contraptions are ideal for shuttling to and from Sunda Kelapa; expect to pay 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp for a short ride.

Taxi

Taxis are inexpensive in Jakarta. All are metered and cost 5000Rp to 8000Rp for the first kilometre and around 300Rp for each subsequent 100m. Tipping is expected, if not demanded. Many taxi drivers provide a good service, but Jakarta has enough rogues to give its taxis a variable reputation. Stick to reputable companies such as Bluebird cabs (%021-794 1234; www.bluebirdgroup.com); a minimum of 30,000Rp is charged for ordered taxis. Uber is also in Jakarta these days, and can frequently be the same price and more comfortable than a taxi. Any tolls and parking fees – there are lots of them – are extra and paid by the passenger.

Java

Java

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Stay

Java Highlights

JAVA MAN

TOP FIVE JAVA READS

Jakarta

Kota

Sunda Kelapa

Glodok

Central Jakarta

OBAMA IN JAKARTA

JAKARTA FOR CHILDREN

Jalan Jaksa Area

Cikini & Menteng

Other Areas

Jalan Jaksa Area

Kota, Sunda Kelapa & Glodok

Cikini & Menteng

Kemang

Senopati

A CUP OF JAVA

CLUBBING IN JAKARTA

DON'T MISS

SALE SEASON

Other Areas

TRANSJAKARTA BUSWAY