Bali

Pop 4.2 million

Why Go?

Impossibly green rice terraces, pounding surf, enchanting Hindu temple ceremonies, mesmerising dance performances, ribbons of beaches and truly charming people: there are as many images of Bali as there are flowers on the island's ubiquitous frangipani trees.

This small island looms large for any visit to Indonesia, and no other place is more visitor-friendly. Hotels range from surfer dives to lavish retreats in the lush mountains. You can dine on local foods bursting with flavours fresh from the markets or let world-class chefs take you on a global culinary journey. From a cold Bintang beer at sunset to an epic night of clubbing, your social whirl is limited only by your fortitude.

Small in size doesn’t mean homogenous: manic Kuta segues into glitzy Seminyak; the artistic swirl of Ubud is a counterpoint to misty hikes amid volcanoes; and mellow beach towns such as Bingin, Amed and Pemuteran lie dotted along the coast.

When to Go

AJul & Aug High season is Bali's busiest and buzziest time. Book ahead for rooms.

AMay, Jun & Sep Often the best weather: slightly cooler and drier; less crowded.

AJan–Apr, Oct & Nov Low season makes spontaneous travel easy. Things go quiet for the Nyepi holiday.

Best Places to Eat

A Sardine

A Mama San

A Cashew Tree

A Locavore

A Tékor Bali

Best Places to Stay

A Temple Lodge

A Bambu Indah

A Samanvaya

A Meditasi

A Sedasa

Bali Highlights

1 Shopping by day and hitting the hot-spots by night in Seminyak, Kerobokan and Canggu.

2 Discovering the beautiful string of hidden beaches in and around Bingin, where the surfing is also fab.

3 Revelling in Bali’s elaborate cultural life in Ubud, where you can enjoy your choice of the island's iconic dance and gamelan performances nightly.

4 Zipping along the nontouristy Sidemen road through verdant scenery of majestic rice fields and valleys.

5 Feeling the mist from waterfalls while hiking the lush region around Munduk.

6 Plunging into the hedonistic nightlife of Kuta.

7 Diving off Nusa Lembongan to see manta rays and mola mola (sunfish), or kick back and enjoying island life.

History

It’s certain that Bali has been populated since early prehistoric times, but the oldest human artefacts found are 3000-year-old stone tools and earthenware vessels from Cekik. Not much is known of Bali during the period when Indian traders brought Hinduism to the Indonesian archipelago; the earliest written records are stone inscriptions dating from around the 9th century. By that time, rice was being grown under the complex irrigation system known as subak, and there were precursors of the religious and cultural traditions that can be traced to the present day.

Hindu Influence

Hindu Java began to spread its influence into Bali during the reign of King Airlangga, from 1019 to 1042. At the age of 16, Airlangga fled into the forests of western Java when his uncle lost the throne. He gradually gained support, won back the kingdom once ruled by his uncle and went on to become one of Java’s greatest kings. Airlangga’s mother had moved to Bali and remarried shortly after his birth, so when he gained the throne there was an immediate link between Java and Bali. At this time, the courtly Javanese language known as Kawi came into use among the royalty of Bali, and the stunning rock-cut memorials seen at Gunung Kawi near Tampaksiring are a clear architectural link between Bali and 11th-century Java.

After Airlangga’s death, Bali retained its semi-independent status until Kertanegara became king of the Singasari dynasty in Java two centuries later. Kertanegara conquered Bali in 1284, but his power lasted only eight years until he was murdered and his kingdom collapsed. With Java in turmoil, Bali regained its autonomy and the Pejeng dynasty, centred near modern-day Ubud, rose to great power. In 1343 Gajah Mada, the legendary chief minister of the Majapahit kingdom, defeated the Pejeng king Dalem Bedaulu and brought Bali back under Javanese influence.

Although Gajah Mada brought much of the Indonesian archipelago under Majapahit control, Bali was the furthest extent of its power. Here the ‘capital’ moved to Gelgel, near modern-day Semarapura (Klungkung), around the late 14th century, and for the next two centuries this was the base for the ‘king of Bali’, the Dewa Agung.

As the Majapahit kingdom fell apart, many of its intelligentsia moved to Bali, including the priest Nirartha, who is credited with introducing many of the complexities of Balinese religion to the island. Artists, dancers, musicians and actors also fled to Bali at this time, and the island experienced an explosion of cultural activities. The final great exodus to Bali took place in 1478.

European Contact

The first Europeans to set foot in Bali were Dutch seafarers in 1597. Setting a tradition that prevails to the present, they fell in love with the island, and when Cornelius Houtman – the ship’s captain – prepared to set sail from Bali, some of his crew refused to leave with him. At that time, Balinese prosperity and artistic activity, at least among the royalty, were at a peak. When the Dutch returned to Indonesia in later years, they were interested in profit, not culture, and barely gave Bali a second glance.

BENOA BAY RECLAMATION PROJECT

Almost 10 million tourists converge each year upon Bali, but the majority remain blissfully unaware of the environmental impact such numbers have on the island. Outside the walls of the luxury villas and five-star hotels, however, a battle is being fought by a younger generation of Balinese who hold grave concerns about the future of their homeland. Alarming shortages of water (vital for rice harvests), pollution, congestion and issues of waste management are all serious matters. Highlighting such concerns is the protest movement Tolak Reklamasi (Reject Reclamation), aligned with the ForBali (www.forbali.org/en) forum, which has generated significant awareness in its relentless drive to fight against the Benoa Bay Reclamation Project.

This controversial project would see the reclamation of 75% of Benoa Bay, a mangrove conservation area, for the creation of Dubai-style artificial islands housing luxury resorts, villas, a casino, a golf course, an amusement park and a car-racing track. The bay was a protected conservation area until outgoing Indonesia president Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono revoked its status in 2014, giving the green light for development. Not only did this decision spark outrage for its supposed murky behind-the-scenes dealings, but feasability studies suggested it will result in rising sea levels and flooding, causing genuine fear that the Benoa Bay development will mean ecological disaster.

Tolak Reklamasi has urged the younger generation to take responsibility for their homeland and 'reclaim Bali' from developers. As well as speaking to environmentalists, the movement has galvanised students, village elders, NGOs, artists, fishers, local business owners and prominent members of the community to rally against the decision. In 2015 the drummer for internationally renowned Balinese punk band Superman is Dead, Jerinx, an activist and vocal opponent of the project, met with current president Joko Widodo to discuss the matter. In this meeting, according to the Indonesia newspaper Kompas, Jerinx urged the president to cancel the decision, stating 'People come to Bali not looking for Disneyland or F1, but for the culture of Bali. This is what we stand for.'

While the future for Benoa Bay appears grim, groups such as Tolak Reklamasi and Bali Not for Sale (www.facebook.com/balinotforsale) are playing an important role to protect Bali's future.

Dutch Conquest

In 1710 the capital of the Gelgel kingdom was shifted to nearby Klungkung, but local discontent was growing, lesser rulers were breaking away from Gelgel domination and the Dutch began to move in, using the old policy of divide and conquer. In 1846 the Dutch used Balinese salvage claims over shipwrecks as the pretext to land military forces in northern Bali. In 1894 the Dutch chose to support the Sasaks of Lombok in a rebellion against their Balinese raja. After some bloody battles, the Balinese were defeated in Lombok and, with northern Bali firmly under Dutch control, southern Bali was not to retain its independence for long.

In 1906 the Dutch commenced their final assault. The three rajas of Badung realised that they were outnumbered and outgunned, and that defeat was inevitable. Surrender and exile, however, was the worst imaginable outcome, so they decided to take the honourable path of a suicidal puputan – a fight to the death.

The Dutch begged the Balinese to surrender rather than make their hopeless stand, but their pleas went unheard and wave after wave of Balinese nobility marched to their deaths. In all, nearly 4000 Balinese died in the puputan.

The kingdoms of Karangasem and Gianyar had already capitulated to the Dutch and were allowed to retain some powers, but other kingdoms were defeated and the rulers exiled. Finally, the raja of Klungkung followed the lead of Badung and once more the Dutch faced a puputan. With this last obstacle disposed of, all of Bali was now under Dutch control and became part of the Dutch East Indies. Dutch rule over Bali was short-lived, however, as Indonesia fell to the Japanese in WWII.

Independence

On 17 August 1945, following the end of WWII, the Indonesian leader Sukarno proclaimed the nation’s independence; however, it took four years to convince the Dutch that they were not going to get their colony back. In a virtual repeat of the puputan nearly half a century earlier, a Balinese resistance group was wiped out in the Battle of Marga on 20 November 1946; Bali’s airport, Ngurah Rai, is named after its leader. It was not until 1949 that the Dutch recognised Indonesia’s independence.

Modern Bali

The tourism boom, which started in the early 1970s, has brought many changes to Bali, and has helped pay for improvements in roads, telecommunications, education and health. Though tourism has had some marked adverse environmental and social effects, Bali’s unique culture has proved to be remarkably resilient.

Bali has also been affected by global politics. In October 2002 two simultaneous bomb explosions in Kuta – targeting an area frequented by tourists – injured or killed more than 500 people. Tourism, and therefore the economy, was devastated. Soon after, the 2005 Bali bombings killed 20 and injured hundreds. Fortunately the last decade has been peaceful, and recent years have seen Bali return to form as a tourist destination.

Culture

Bali’s culture is unique, without a hint of cliché. The Balinese version of Hinduism that's practised here with great fervour exists nowhere else in the world, and has inspired fervent artistic expressions that charm visitors.

The population in Bali is almost all Indonesian; more than 90% of these are of Balinese Hindu descent and could be described as ethnic Balinese. The remaining residents are mostly from other parts of the country, predominantly Java.

The traditional Balinese society is intensely communal; the organisation of villages, the cultivation of farmlands and even the creative arts are communal efforts. A person belongs to their family, clan, caste and to the village as a whole.

Although tourism has brought much economic wealth to the island and there exists a burgeoning middle class, Bali's traditional rice-growing culture remains revered, even as swathes of land are sold for development. In 2012 Unesco recognised the island's rice-growing traditions, including the communal subak water distribution system.

Balinese society is held together by collective responsibility. For instance, if a woman enters a temple while menstruating, it is a kind of irreverence, an insult to the gods, and their displeasure falls not just on the transgressor but on the whole community. This collective responsibility produces considerable pressure on the individual to conform to adat – the traditional laws and customs that form core Balinese values.

Religion

You can’t miss religion in Bali; there are temples in every village, shrines in every field and offerings made at every corner.

The Balinese are nominally Hindu, but Balinese Hinduism is half a world away from that of Indian. When the Majapahits evacuated to Bali they took with them their religion and its rituals, as well as their art, literature, music and culture. The Balinese had their own strong religious beliefs and an active cultural life, so new influences were simply overlaid on existing practices – hence the peculiar Balinese interpretation of Hinduism.

The Balinese believe that spirits are everywhere, an indication that animism is the basis of much of their religion. Good spirits dwell in the mountains and bring prosperity to the people, while giants and demons lurk beneath the sea, and bad spirits haunt the woods and desolate beaches. The people live between these two opposites and their rituals strive to maintain this middle ground. Offerings are carefully made every morning to pay homage to the good spirits, and nonchalantly placed on the ground to placate the bad ones.

Temples

The word for temple is pura, a Sanskrit word meaning ‘a space surrounded by a wall’. As with so much of Balinese religion, temples, though nominally Hindu, owe much to the pre-Majapahit era. Their kaja, kelod or kangin (alignment towards the mountains, the sea or the sunrise) is in deference to spirits that are more animist than Hindu.

Most villages have at least three temples. The most important temple is the pura puseh (temple of origin), which is dedicated to the village founders and is at the kaja end of the village. In the middle of the village is the pura desa for the spirits that protect the village community in its day-to-day life. At the kelod end of the village is the pura dalem (temple of the dead). The graveyard is also here and the temple will often include representations of Durga, the terrible incarnation of Shiva’s wife.

Families worship their ancestors in family temples, clans in clan temples and the whole village in the pura puseh. Certain temples in Bali are of such importance that they are deemed to be owned by the whole island rather than by individual villages. Overall Bali has more than 10,000 temples and shrines in all shapes and sizes.

The simple shrines or thrones you see, for example, in rice fields or next to sacred old trees are not real temples, as they are not walled. You’ll find these shrines in all sorts of places, such as overlooking intersections or dangerous curves in the road to protect road users.

For much of the year Balinese temples are deserted, but on holy days it’s believed that the deities and ancestral spirits descend from heaven to visit their devotees, and the temples come alive with days of frenetic activity and nights of drama and dance. Temple festivals occur at least once every Balinese year (210 days). Because most villages have at least three temples, you’re assured of at least five or six annual festivals in every village. The full-moon periods, around the end of September to the beginning of October, or early to mid-April, are often times of important festivals.

Galungan-Kuningan is a 10-day festival during which lots of activity takes place at family and community temples all over the island.

NYEPI

Bali’s major Hindu festival, Nyepi celebrates the end of the old year and the start of the next. It’s marked by inactivity – a strategy to convince evil spirits that Bali is uninhabited, so they’ll leave the island alone for another year.

For the Balinese, it's a day for meditation and introspection. For foreigners, the rules are more relaxed, so long as you respect the 'Day of Silence' by not leaving your residence or hotel. If you do sneak out, you will be be escorted back to your hotel by a stern pecalang (village police officer). The airport also closes during Nyepi.

As daunting as it sounds, Nyepi is actually a fantastic time to be in Bali. Firstly, there's the inspired concept of being forced to do nothing. Secondly, the night before Nyepi sees the spectacle of celebrations with ogoh-ogoh, huge papier-mâché monsters that go up in flames.

In coming years, dates for Nyepi are 28 March 2017, 17 March 2018 and 5 April 2019.

Arts

The Balinese have no words for ‘art’ and ‘artist’ because, traditionally, art has never been regarded as something to be treasured for its own sake. Prior to the tourism boom, art was just part of everyday life, and what was produced went into temples, palaces or festivals. Although respected, the painter or carver was not considered a member of some special elite; the artist’s work was not signed; and there were no galleries or craft shops.

It’s a different story today, with thousands of art outlets tucked into every possible crevice. Although much Balinese art is churned out quickly as cheap souvenirs, buried beneath the reproductions of reproductions there’s still much beautiful work to be found. Most visitors to the island discover the greatest concentration of the arts in and around Ubud.

Balinese Painting

The art form most influenced both by Western ideas and tourist demand is painting. Traditional painting was very limited in style and subject matter, and was used primarily for temple decoration. The arrival of Western artists after WWI introduced new subject matter and materials with which artists could work.

Traditional Balinese paintings were narratives with mythological themes, illustrating stories from Hindu epics and literature. Paintings were executed in the wayang style – the flat two-dimensional style that imitates wayang kulit (shadow puppets), with the figures invariably shown in three-quarter view. The colours that artists could use were strictly limited: red, blue, brown, yellow, and light ochre for flesh.

Bali's painting traditions remain vibrant and rich today. Ubud is the place to ponder the best paintings in museums and galleries.

WHAT'S IN A NAME

Far from being straightforward, Balinese names are as fluid as the tides. Everyone has a traditional name, but their other names often reflect events in each individual's life. They also help distinguish between people of the same name, which is perhaps nowhere more necessary than in Bali.

Traditional naming customs seem simple enough, with a predictable gender-nonspecific pattern to names. The order of names, with variations for regions and caste, is as follows:

First born Wayan (Gede, Putu)
Second born Made (Kadek, Nengah, Ngurah)
Third born Nyoman (Komang)
Fourth born Ketut (or just Tut, as in toot)

Subsequent children reuse the same set, but as many families now settle for just two children, you'll meet many Wayans and Mades.

Castes also play an important role in naming and have naming conventions that clearly denote status when added to the birth-order name. Bali's caste system is much less complicated than India's.

Sudra Some 90% of Balinese are part of this, the peasant caste. Names are preceded by the title 'I' for a boy and 'Ni' for a girl.
Wesya The caste of bureaucrats and merchants. Gusti Bagus (male) and Gusti Ayu (female).
Ksatria A top caste, denoting royalty or warriors. I Gusti Ngurah (male) and I Gusti Ayu (female), with additional titles including Anak Agung, and Dewa.
Brahman The top of the heap: teachers and priests. Ida Bagus (male) and Ida Ayu (female).

Traditional names are followed by another given name; this is where parents can get creative. Some names reflect hopes for their child, as in I Nyoman Darma Putra, who's supposed to be 'dutiful' or 'good' (dharma). Others reflect modern influences, such as I Wayan Radio who was born in the 1970s, and Ni Made Atom, who said her parents just liked the sound of this scientific term that also had a bomb named after it.

Many children are tagged for their appearance. Nyoman Darma is often called Nyoman Kopi (coffee) for the darkness of his skin compared with that of his siblings. I Wayan Rama, named after the Ramayana epic, is called Wayan Gemuk (fat) to differentiate his physique from his slighter friend Wayan Kecil (small).

8Getting There & Away

Air

Bali is the second most common entry point to Indonesia. The only airport in Bali, Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS; GOOGLE MAP ; http://bali-airport.com; Bali), is just south of Kuta; however, it is sometimes referred to internationally as Denpasar (which is 15km north) or, on some internet flight-booking sites, as Bali. Completion of the airport's expansion and renovation has transformed it into one of Indonesia's most shiny, modern airports with world-class facilities and restaurants.

In addition to its international flights, Bali is also a hub for domestic flights across the archipelago.

As of February 2015 departure tax is now included in all international and domestic airfares.

Bus

Mengwi bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is 12km northwest of Denpasar, just off the main road to west Bali. Many long-distance buses to/from Denpasar's Ubung bus terminal stop here.

When travelling to/from south Bali, you can save time by using this terminal instead of Denpasar's. Metered taxis are available and fares should be 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp from Mengwi to various destinations in the south.

Ferry crossing to/from Bali is included in the services offered by numerous bus companies, many of which travel overnight to Java. It's advisable to buy tickets at least one day in advance from a travel agent or at the terminals in Denpasar (Ubung) or Mengwi. Note that flying can be as cheap as taking the bus.

Fares vary between operators; it's worth paying extra for a decent seat. All have air-con. Typical routes from Mengwi and Denpasar include Surabaya (150,000Rp, 12 hours), Yogyakarta (350,000Rp, 16 hours) and Jakarta (470,000Rp, 24 hours). You can also get buses from Singaraja in north Bali.

BALI WEBSITES

Coconuts Bali (http://bali.coconuts.co) Good source for local news, features and reviews.

InBali (www.inbali.org) Glossy site featuring articles, tips and restaurant reviews.

Bali.com (www.bali.com) Overview and practical info.

Bali Belly (www.balibelly.com) Access past editions of this excellent magazine online, which focuses on Bali youth subculture, surfing and skating.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Sea

Ferries operate between Gilimanuk in western Bali and Ketapang in Java.

Bali is accessible by regular public ferry to Padangbai, Sanur and Amed. Fast boats for tourists serve the Gili Islands and Lombok.

Services to other islands in Indonesia are often in flux, although Pelni, the national shipping line, is reasonably reliable. It schedules large boats on long-distance runs throughout Indonesia.

For Bali, Pelni ships stop at the harbour in Benoa as part of their regular loops throughout Indonesia. Schedules and fares are found on the website. You can enquire and book at the Pelni ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-763963; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Raya Kuta 299; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) in Tuban.

Train

There is no train service on Bali but the State Railway Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-227131; Jl Diponegoro 150/B4; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) does have an office in Denpasar. From here buses leave for eastern Java, where they link with trains at Banyuwangi for Surabaya, Yogyakarta and Jakarta, among other destinations. Fares and times are comparable to the bus, but the air-conditioned trains are more comfortable, even in economy class. Note: Google Translate works well on the website.

8Getting Around

The best way to get around Bali is with your own transport. This gives you the flexibility to explore at will and allows you to reach many places that are otherwise inaccessible.

To/From the Airport

Fixed-price taxis operate from the official counter at the airport arrivals area. Costs depend on drop-off point; however, efforts may be made to charge you the high end of the range, so it pays to know the location of your hotel.

Destination	Fare (Rp)
Candidasa	425,000
Canggu	225,000
Denpasar	125,000-175,000
Jimbaran	100,000-150,000
Kuta Beach	70,000-80,000
Legian	95,000
Nusa Dua	150,000
Sanur	150,000
Seminyak/Kerobokan	110,000-150,000
Ubud	300,000
Ulu Watu	200,000-225,000

Note if you have a surfboard, you’ll be charged at least 35,000Rp extra.

While metered Bluebird taxis aren't officially allowed to pick up passengers from the airport, they are allowed to drop off passengers. Hence another option is to chance your luck on the 3rd floor to see if there's a taxi waiting there.

Bemo

The bemo (a minibus or van with seats down each side) was once the dominant form of public transport in Bali. But widespread motorcycle ownership (which can be cheaper than daily bemo use) has caused the system to wither. Due to unreliable (or complete lack of) scheduling, it's uncommon to see visitors on bemos in Bali. You can certainly expect journeys to be lengthy, and you'll find that getting to many places is both time-consuming and inconvenient.

Bicycle

Increasingly, people are touring the island by sepeda (bicycle). Many visitors are also using bikes around towns and for day trips in Bali.

There are plenty of bicycles for rent in the tourist areas; these cost around 30,000Rp per day.

Boat

Boats of various sizes serve Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida from Sanur and Padangbai.

Bus/Tourist Shuttle

Tourist shuttles are the main mode of transport that independent travellers will use. Perama (%0361-751170; www.peramatour.com) has a near monopoly on this service in Bali. It has offices or agents in Kuta, Sanur, Ubud, Lovina, Padangbai and Candidasa, and at least one bus a day links these tourist centres. Fares are reasonable; shuttles are air-conditioned; and it's a good way to meet other travellers.

The public bus Trans-Sarbagita ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Imam Bonjol; fare 3500Rp; h5am-9pm) is suited more to locals; however, it's handy if you're heading along any of the following four routes: the bypass linking Sanur to Nusa Dua; Denpasar to Jimbaran; Tabanan to Bandara; or Mahendradata to Lebih via Sanur.

Car & Motorcycle

Car hire is easily arranged in tourist centres. A small jeep costs a negotiable 200,000Rp per day, with unlimited kilometres and very limited insurance. Nearly all vehicles have manual transmission. Petrol costs around 6500Rp per litre.

A much better option is to hire a car with a driver, which costs from 500,000Rp per day including fuel.

Renting motorbikes is a very popular means of getting around Bali, but think carefully before hiring one. It is dangerous, and every year visitors go home with lasting damage; this is no place to learn to ride. Helmet use is mandatory.

Motorbikes are easily hired, and cost around 50,000Rp a day, or less by the week. This should include minimal insurance for the motorcycle (probably with a US$100 excess), but not for additional passengers or property. Many have racks for surfboards.

Taxi

Metered taxis are common in south Bali and Denpasar (but not in Ubud). They are essential for getting around these areas and you can usually flag one down in busy areas. They're often a lot less hassle than haggling with drivers offering 'transport!'.

Taxis are fairly cheap: Kuta to Seminyak can be just 50,000Rp.

The best taxi company by far is Blue Bird Taxi (%0361-701111; www.bluebirdgroup.com), which uses blue vehicles with a light on the roof bearing a stylised bluebird. Watch out for fakes – there are many. Look for 'Blue Bird' over the windscreen and the phone number. Drivers speak reasonable English and use the meter at all times. Many expats will use no other firm. Blue Bird has a slick phone app that summons a taxi to your location. Flagfall is 7000Rp, and it's 5700Rp for each additional kilometre. Waiting time is 40,000Rp per hour.

Avoid any taxis where the driver won't use a meter, even after dark when they claim that only fixed fares apply.

Taxi scams include: lack of change, 'broken' meter, fare-raising detours, and offers for tours, massages, prostitutes etc.

South Bali

For many people south Bali is Bali. Chaotic Kuta and upscale Seminyak throb around the clock. In the south, the Bukit Peninsula is home to some of the island’s best hidden beaches, while in the east, Sanur follows the subdued beat of its reef-protected surf. Denpasar is a fascinating excursion into Balinese culture.

Kuta & Legian

%0361

Loud, frenetic and brash are just some of the adjectives commonly used to describe Kuta and Legian, the centre of mass tourism in Bali. Only a couple of decades ago, local hotels tacked their signs up to palm trees. Amid the wall-to-wall cacophony today, such an image seems as foreign as the thought that the area was once rice fields. Parts are just plain ugly, like the unsightly strips that wend their way inland from the beach.

Although this is often the first place many visitors hit in Bali, the region is not for everyone. Kuta has narrow lanes jammed with cheap cafes, surf shops, incessant motorbikes and an uncountable number of T-shirt vendors. Shiny air-conditioned malls and chain hotels are indicative of its rapid commercialisation.

Kuta has Bali's most raucous clubs, and you can still find a simple room for 150,000Rp in dozens of hotels. Legian appeals to a slightly older crowd (some jest it's where fans of Kuta go after they're married). It is equally tacky and has a long row of family-friendly hotels close to the beach. Tuban is more sleepy than Kuta and Legian, but has a higher percentage of visitors on package holidays.

1Sights

The real sights here are, of course, the beaches.

oKuta BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Tourism in Bali began here and is there any question why? Low-key hawkers will sell you soft drinks and beer, snacks and other treats, and you can rent surfboards, lounge chairs and umbrellas (negotiable at 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp) or just crash on the sand. The sunsets here are legendary.

oLegian BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

An extension of Kuta Beach to the south, Legian Beach is quieter thanks to the lack of a raucous road next to the sand and fewer people.

Double Six BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The beach becomes less crowded as you go north from Legian until very popular Double Six Beach, which is alive with pick-up games of football and volleyball all day long. It's a good place to meet locals.

Tuban BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Tuban's beach is a mixed bag. There are wide and mellow stretches of sand to the south but near the Discovery Mall it disappears entirely.

Memorial WallMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Legian)

This memorial wall reflects the international scope of the 2002 bombings, and people from many countries pay their respects. Listing the names of the 202 known victims, including 88 Australians and 35 Indonesians, it is starting to look just a touch faded. Across the street, a parking lot is all that is left of the destroyed Sari Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Kuta & Legian

1Top Sights

1Kuta BeachC7

1Sights

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Bali Sea Turtle SocietyC8

7Jamu Traditional SpaC5

8Pro Surf SchoolC5

9Rip Curl School of SurfA1

4Sleeping

10Double-SixA1

11Funky Monkey HostelD7

12Hotel Ayu Lili GardenD5

13IslandC2

14Kayun Hostel DowntownD6

15Love Fashion HotelD5

16Sari Beach HotelB3

17StonesC5

5Eating

18Fat ChowC6

19MozzarellaB2

20Poppies RestaurantD7

21SalekoC1

22Stakz Bar & GrillD6

23TakeD4

24Warung Asia Thai FoodB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

25BountyD7

Double-Six RooftopA1

Infamy@The StonesC5

26Sky Garden LoungeD6

27Twice BarD6

7Shopping

28Luke StuderE3

29Surfer GirlE7

2Activities

From Kuta you can easily go surfing, diving, fishing or rafting anywhere in the southern part of Bali and still be back for the start of happy hour at sunset.

Spas have proliferated, especially in hotels.

Jamu Traditional SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-752520 ext 165; www.jamutraditionalspa.com; Jl Pantai Kuta, Alam Kul Kul; massage from 600,000Rp; h9am-7pm)

In serene surrounds at a resort hotel you can enjoy massage in rooms that open onto a pretty garden courtyard. If you’ve ever wanted to be part of a fruit cocktail, here’s your chance – treatments involve tropical nuts, coconuts, papayas and more, often in fragrant baths.

Bali Sea Turtle SocietyTURTLE HATCHERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.baliseaturtle.org; Kuta Beach; h4.30pm Apr-Oct)

Lend a hand in re-releasing turtle hatchlings into the ocean from Kuta Beach around 4.30pm from April to October. The release is organised by the Bali Sea Turtle Society, a conservation group doing great work in protecting olive ridley turtles. Join the queue to collect your baby turtle, pay a small donation, and join the group to release them.

Waterbom ParkWATER PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-755676; www.waterbom-bali.com; Jl Kartika Plaza; adult/child 490,000/325,000Rp; h9am-6pm)

This watery amusement park covers 3.5 hectares of landscaped tropical gardens. It has assorted water slides (21 in total), swimming pools, a FlowRider surf machine, a supervised park for children under five years old, and a ‘lazy river’ ride. Other indulgences include a food court, a bar and a spa.

SURFING IN BALI

Bali's legendary breaks are found right around the south side of the island. There’s a large infrastructure of schools, board-hire places, cheap surfer accommodation and more that caters to the crowds.

Here are six famous spots you won’t want to miss:

Kuta Beach Where surfing came to Asia. Long, steady breaks mean this can be a good place for beginners.
Echo Beach Northwest of Kerobokan; there's a good surfer scene here, including cafes, board rental and more.
Ulu Watu Some of the largest – and most famous – sets in Bali. It featured in legendary surf movie Morning of the Earth.
Pantai Medewi Famous point break with a ride right into a river mouth.
Pantai Keramas This right-hander fast reef break is home to Bali's main surf event and has night surfing under floodlights.
Nusa Lembongan The island is a mellow scene for surfers and nonsurfers alike. The breaks are accessible from accommodations.

Magic Seaweed (www.magicseaweed.com) and Bali Waves (www.baliwaves.com) are both good resources for surf reports, forecasts and tips.

Stalls on or near the beach hire out surfboards and boogie boards. In Kuta and around there are plenty of stores selling new and used boards; many can repair dings.

Ideal for beginners, Pro Surf School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751200; www.prosurfschool.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; lessons from €45) is right across from the classic stretch of Kuta Beach. Facilities include semiprivate lesson areas and a hostel (dorms from €15). Rip Curl School of Surf ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735858; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com; Jl Arjuna; lessons from 700,000Rp) offers classes for beginners and experts alike.

Surf camps have become all the rage in south Bali, and offer packages for surf lessons and accommodation. The Green Room ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-738894; www.thegreenroombali.com; Gang Puri Kubu 63B; dm incl breakfast from €20; aWs) in Seminyak is very popular.

The World Surf League pro circuit comes to Bali with the Kommune Bali Pro held at Keramas in May, and the Quiksilver Uluwatu Challenge in August. The Rip Curl Cup (http://live.ripcurl.com/ripcurlcup) at Padang Padang in August is another pro event.

4Sleeping

Wandering the gang (alleys) looking for a cheap room is a rite of passage for many visitors. Small and family-run options are still numerous even as chains and five-star resorts crowd in.

oHotel Ayu Lili GardenHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-750557; ayuliligardenhotel@yahoo.com; off Jl Lebak Bene; r with fan/air-con from 175,000/226,000Rp; as)

In a relatively quiet area near the beach, this vintage family-run hotel has 22 bungalow-style rooms. Standards are high and for more dosh you can add amenities such as a fridge.

Funky Monkey HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4636 4386; www.funkymonkeybali.com; Poppies Lane 1; dm 60,000-120,000Rp, r 300,000Rp; aWs)

In a lovely location in the back alleys of Kuta, close to Poppies Restaurant, this homely and intimate Dutch-run hostel is a top place to meet fellow travellers. There's a small pool, free pancakes and cheap beer. The cheaper dorms are outdoor bunks.

Kayun Hostel DowntownHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-758442; www.kayun-downtown.com; Jl Legian; dm incl breakfast from 190,000Rp; aWs)

In the heart of Kuta, close to all the nightlife, this hostel is the place to be if you're here to party. Set in an elegant colonial building, the place has a sense of style and there's a small plunge pool. Dorm rooms have between four and 20 beds, with curtains for privacy.

IslandGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-762722; www.theislandhotelbali.com; Gang Abdi; dm/r incl breakfast from 250,000/500,000Rp; aiWs)

One of Bali's few flashpacker options, Island is a real find – literally. Hidden in the attractive maze of tiny lanes west of Jl Legian, this stylish place with a sparkling pool lies at the confluence of Gang 19, 21 and Abdi. It has a deluxe dorm room with eight beds.

Sari Beach HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751635; www.saribeachinn.com; off Jl Padma Utara; r incl breakfast from US$70; aWs)

Follow your ears down a long gang (alleyway) to the roar of the surf at this good-value beachside hotel that defines mellow. It feels like a time warp from the 1980s but is perfect for a no-frills beach holiday. The 21 rooms have patios and the best have big soaking tubs. Grassy grounds boast many little statues and water features.

Love Fashion HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 6688; www.lovefhotels.com; Jl Legian 121; r incl breakfast from US$100; aWs)

This gaudy hotel in the heart of the Kuta strip is an offshoot of the Fashion TV channel, featuring a design that's suitably over the top. Strut your stuff down the catwalk in the lobby, where mirrors and lighting effects are designed to make you feel like a model. There's a rooftop Jacuzzi and a bar with nightly parties.

Double-SixRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730466; www.double-six.com; Double Six Beach 66; r incl breakfast from US$350; aWs)

A colossus five-star resort, Double-Six takes a leaf out of the Vegas book of extravagance. Fronted by a luxurious 120m pool, the spacious rooms all overlook the beach, and have 24-hour butlers and TVs in the bathrooms. It has several restaurants and an enormous rooftop bar.

StonesRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-300 5888; www.stoneshotelbali.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r incl breakfast from US$190; aWs)

Looming across the road from Kuta Beach, this vast resort boasts a huge pool, a vertical garden and nearly 300 rooms in five-storey blocks. The design is hip and contemporary, and high-tech features such as huge HD TVs abound. It's one of the growing number of new mega-hotels along this strip; it's affiliated with Marriott.

5Eating

There's a profusion of places to eat around Kuta and Legian. Tourist cafes, with their cheap menus of Indonesian standards, sandwiches and pizza, are ubiquitous. Look closely and you'll find genuine Balinese warungs (food stalls) tucked in amid it all.

SalekoINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Nakula 4; meals from 11,000Rp; h8am-11pm)

If you haven't tried Masakan Padang food yet, you haven't eaten proper Indonesian. Saleko is a great place to sample this simple, delicious and cheap Sumatran street food. Spicy grilled chicken and fish dare you to ladle on the volcanic sambal – not de-spiced for timid tourist palates. All dishes are halal; there's no alcohol.

Warung Asia Thai FoodASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-742 0202; Jl Werkudara; meals from 32,000Rp; h11am-late; W)

Staffed by exceptionally friendly waiters, this popular upstairs warung serves both Indo classics and Thai fare. It gets boozy and raucous at night.

oFat ChowASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-753516; www.fatchowbali.com; Poppies Gang II; mains from 60,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)

A stylish, modern take on the traditional open-fronted cafe, Fat Chow serves up Asian-accented fare at long picnic tables, small tables and lounges. The food is creative, with lots of options for sharing. Among the favourites: crunchy Asian salad, pork buns, Tokyo prawns and authentic pad Thai.

Poppies RestaurantINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751059; www.poppiesbali.com; Poppies Gang I; mains 43,000-120,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)

Opening its doors in 1973, Poppies was one of the first restaurants to be established in Kuta (Poppies Gang I is even named after it). It's popular for its elegant garden setting and a menu of upmarket Balinese, Western and Thai cuisine. The rijstaffel (selection of dishes served with rice) and seafood is popular.

TakeJAPANESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-759745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals 70,000-300,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)

Flee Bali for a relaxed version of Tokyo just by ducking under the traditional fabric shield over the doorway at this ever-expanding restaurant. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and more are prepared under the keen eyes of a team of chefs behind a long counter. The head chef is a stalwart at the Jimbaran fish market in the early hours.

Stakz Bar & GrillAUSTRALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-762129; www.stakzbarandgrill.com; Jl Benesari; mains 40,000-140,000Rp; h8am-midnight; W)

From Vegemite on toast and a flat white for brekkie, a potato-cake roll or a meat pie in the arvo, and an Aussie burger with the lot (including beetroot, egg and pineapple) for dinner: Stakz is a good spot to sample typical Australian tucker.

MozzarellaITALIAN, SEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751654; www.mozzarella-resto.com; Jl Padma Utara; meals from 100,000Rp; hnoon-11pm; W)

The best of the beachfront restaurants on Legian’s car-free strip, Mozzarella serves Italian fare that's more authentic than most. Fresh fish also features; service is rather polished and there are various open-air areas for moonlit dining, plus a more sheltered dining room.

BALI FOR KIDS

There's no shortage of fun for the kids on their Bali visit.

BEST BEACHES

Kids of all ages will get their kicks at Bali's beaches, from the surf schools at Kuta Beach to kite-flying at Sanur.

BEST WATER FUN

Play in the ocean at Nusa Lembongan, or snorkel at Pulau Menjangan. For something different, walk across the rice fields – who could resist the promise of muddy water filled with ducks, frogs and other fun critters?

BEST ADVENTURE PARKS

Kids can make like monkeys at Bali Treetop Adventure Park in Candikuning or hit the aquatic playground of Waterbom Park in Tuban.

BEST FOR ANIMALS

Take the kids to Ubud's Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, the Bali Bird Park south of Ubud, and the Elephant Safari Park north of Ubud.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Sunset on the beach (at around 6pm year-round) is the big attraction, perhaps while enjoying a drink at a cafe with a sea view or with a beer vendor on the beach. Later on, the legendary nightlife action heats up.

Sky Garden LoungeBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.skygardenbali.com; Jl Legian 61; h24hr)

This multilevel palace of flash flirts with height restrictions from its rooftop bar where all of Kuta twinkles around you. Look for top DJs, a ground-level cafe and paparazzi-wannabes. Munchers can enjoy a long menu of bar snacks and meals, which most people pair with shots. Roam from floor to floor in this vertical playpen.

BountyCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bountydiscotheque.com; Jl Legian; h8pm-4am)

Set on a faux sailing boat amid a mini-mall of food and drink, the Bounty is a vast open-air disco that pumps all night to hip-hop, techno, house and party tracks. Foam parties, go-go dancers, drag shows and cheap shots add to the rowdiness.

Twice BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Poppies Gang II; h7pm-2am)

Where the local cool kids hang out, Twice Bar is home to Kuta’s underground music scene. It's a sweaty, dark dive that hosts local punk, indie and hardcore bands, with the occasional international act passing through. It's owned by the drummer from Balinese punk band Superman is Dead.

Infamy@The StonesLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-766100; www.thestones-kuta.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; cocktails from 85,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)

Bring your swimming costume to enjoy Kuta's famous sunset while sipping a cocktail in a Jacuzzi at this stylish rooftop bar overlooking the ocean. There's Bintang on tap and quality food, too.

DeeJay CafeCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-758880; Jl Kartika Plaza 8X, Kuta Station Hotel; hmidnight-9am)

The choice for closing out the night (or starting the day). House DJs play tribal, underground, progressive, trance, electro and more. Beware of posers who set their alarms for 5am and arrive all fresh.

Double-Six RooftopBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734300; www.doublesixrooftop.com; Double Six Beach 66; h3-11pm; W)

Sharks swimming in aquarium-lined walls, suave lounges, a commanding location and tiki torches: this ostentatious bar above the Double-Six hotel could easily pass as a villain's lair from a Bond film. Amazing sunset views are best enjoyed from the circular booths enclosed by water – it's a minimum 1,000,000Rp spend to reserve one, but it's redeemable against food, and perfect for groups.

7Shopping

Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap, tawdry shops, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear emporiums. As you head north along Jl Legian, the quality of the shops improves, and you'll start finding cute little boutiques – especially near Jl Arjuna, which has wholesale fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving it a bazaar-like feel. Large malls are also making inroads.

Surfer GirlCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.surfer-girl.com; Jl Legian 138; h9am-10.30pm)

A local legend, this vast store for girls of all ages has a winsome logo that says it all. Clothes, gear, bikinis and plenty of other stuff in every shade of bubblegum ever made.

Luke StuderSURFBOARDS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-894 7425; www.studersurfboards.com; Jl Dewi Sri 7A; h9am-8pm)

Legendary board shaper Luke Studer works from this large and glossy shop. Shortboards, retro fishes, single fins and classic longboards are sold ready-made or custom-built.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

The streets and gang are usually safe but there are annoyances. Your biggest irritation will likely be the chaotic traffic.

Things to watch out for:

Alcohol poisoning There are ongoing reports of injuries and deaths among tourists and locals due to arak (the local booze, traditionally distilled from palm or cane sugar) being adulterated with methanol, a poisonous form of alcohol. Avoid offers of free cocktails and any offers of arak.

Surf The surf can be dangerous, with a strong current on some tides, especially up north in Legian. Lifeguards patrol swimming areas of the beaches at Kuta and Legian, indicated by red-and-yellow flags. If they say the water is too rough or unsafe to swim in, they mean it. Red flags with skull and crossbones mean no swimming allowed.

Theft Visitors lose things from unlocked (and some locked) hotel rooms and from the beach. Going into the water and leaving valuables on the beach is simply asking for trouble. Snatch-thefts by crooks on motorbikes are common. Valuable items can be left at your hotel reception.

Water pollution The sea around Kuta is commonly contaminated by run-off from both built-up areas and surrounding farmland, especially after heavy rain. Swim far away from streams, including the often foul and smelly one at Double Six Beach.

Emergency

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751598; Jl Raya Kuta; h24hr)

Ask to speak to the tourist police.

Tourist Police PostPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-784 5988; Jl Pantai Kuta; h24hr)

This is a branch of the main police station in Denpasar. It's right across from the beach; the officers have a gig that is sort of like a Balinese Baywatch.

Internet Access

Most hotels and cafes have wi-fi. The back lanes of Kuta and Legian have numerous internet spots.

Medical Services

BIMCMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-761263; www.bimcbali.com; JI Ngurah Rai 100X; h24hr)

On the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali Galleria shopping mall. It's a modern Australian-run clinic that can do tests, hotel visits and arrange medical evacuation. Visits can cost US$100 or more. It has a branch in Nusa Dua.

Money

ATMs abound and can be found everywhere, including in the ubiquitous Circle K and Mini Mart convenience stores.

Numerous ‘authorised’ moneychangers are efficient, open long hours and may offer good exchange rates. Be cautious, though, where the rates are markedly better than the norm. Extra fees may apply or the moneychangers may be adeptly short-changing their customers.

Post

Postal agencies that can send mail are common.

Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-754012; Jl Selamet; h7am-2pm Mon-Thu, 7-11am Fri, 7am-1pm Sat)

On a little road east of Jl Raya Kuta, this small and efficient post office is well practised in shipping large packages.

8Getting There & Away

Bemo

Bemos (minibuses) regularly travel between Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar; the fare should be 8000Rp. The route goes from Jl Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the beach, then on Jl Melasti and back past Bemo Corner for the trip to Denpasar.

Tourist Shuttle Bus

Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751551; www.peramatour.com; Jl Legian 39; h7am-10pm) is the main shuttle-bus operation in town, and may do hotel pick-ups and drop-offs for an extra 10,000Rp (confirm this with the staff when making arrangements). It usually has at least one bus a day to its destinations.

Destination	Cost (Rp)	Duration
Candidasa	75,000	3½hr
Lovina	125,000	4½hr
Padangbai	75,000	3hr
Sanur	35,000	30min
Ubud	60,000	2hr

8Getting Around

The hardest part about getting around south Bali is the traffic. Besides using taxis, you can rent a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack. One of the nicest ways to get around the area is by foot along the beach.

Seminyak & Kerobokan

Seminyak is flash, brash and arguably a bit phoney. It's also a very dynamic place, home to dozens of restaurants and a wealth of exclusive galleries, and the centre of life for hordes of the island's expats.

Seminyak seamlessly merges with Kerobokan, which is immediately north; in fact the exact border between the two is as fuzzy as most other geographic details in Bali. The many restaurants combine to give travellers the greatest choice of style and budget in Bali.

One notable landmark is the notorious Kerobokan jail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu), home to prisoners both infamous and unknown.

Seminyak & Kerobokan

1Sights

1Kerobokan JailF1

2Pura PetitengetA4

3Seminyak BeachA4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Amo Beauty SpaB3

5Jari MenariE5

6Jiwa Bikram YogaB2

7PranaF6

8Sate BaliC5

9Sundari Day SpaE1

4Sleeping

10Brown FeatherC1

11Green RoomD7

12Luna2 StudiotelC6

13M Boutique HostelC2

14Mutiara BaliC4

15Ned's Hide-AwayE6

16OberoiB5

17One ElevenC3

18Raja GardensD7

19SamayaB4

20Taman Ayu CottageB2

21Villa KarisaE6

22Villa KubuF6

23W Retreat & Spa Bali – SeminyakA2

5Eating

24BarbacoaD1

25BikuB3

26Corner HouseE4

27Divine EarthE4

28Earth Cafe & MarketD4

29Fat GajahE4

30Ginger MoonC4

31Gusto Gelato & CoffeeF3

32Mama SanE4

33Motel MexicolaB4

34RevolverC4

35Rolling ForkF5

36Saigon StreetB3

37SardineD1

38SarongB2

39SisterfieldsC4

40UltimoD4

41Warung Aneka RasaD4

42Warung EnyC2

43Warung SobatA1

44Warung SulawesiC1

45Warung Taman BambuF6

46WatercressA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

Anomali CoffeeE4

47Bali JoeE6

48Ku De TaB5

49La FavelaD4

50La PlanchaC7

51Potato HeadA3

7Shopping

52AshitabaF5

53BatheB1

54BiasaF6

55Blue GlueF7

Blue Glue OutletF5

56DrifterC4

57DuztyE6

58Lucy's BatikE4

59Lulu YasmineD4

60Paul RoppD4

61Periplus BookshopC4

SamsaraF5

This Is A Love SongC4

1Sights

Seminyak BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Seminyak continues the long sweep of Kuta Beach. A sunset lounger and an ice-cold Bintang on the beach at sunset is simply magical. A good stretch can be found near Pura Petitenget, and it tends to be less crowded than further south in Kuta.

Fewer crowds also means that the beach is less patrolled and the water conditions less monitored. The odds of encountering dangerous rip tides and other hazards are ever-present, especially as you head north.

Pura PetitengetHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya)F

This is an important temple and the scene of many ceremonies. It is one of a string of sea temples that stretches from Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit Peninsula north to Pura Tanah Lot in western Bali. Petitenget loosely translates as 'magic box'; it was a treasured belonging of the legendary 16th-century priest Nirartha, who refined the Balinese religion and visited this site often.

Batubelig BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Kerobokan's beach is equal to more famous beaches north and south. You can walk along the curving sands northwest towards popular spots as far as Echo Beach.

2Activities

Seminyak's and Kerobokan's spas are among the best in Bali, and offer a huge range of treatments and therapies.

Spas

oJari MenariSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736740; www.jarimenari.com; Jl Raya Basangkasa 47; sessions from 385,000Rp; h9am-9pm)

Jari Menari is true to its name, which means ‘dancing fingers’: your body will be one happy dance floor. The all-male staff use massage techniques that emphasise rhythm. You can book online, too.

Sundari Day SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735073; www.sundari-dayspa.com; Jl Petitenget 7; massages from 200,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

This lovely spa strives to offer the services of a five-star resort without the high prices. The massage oils and other potions are organic, and there's a full menu of therapies and treatments on offer.

Amo Beauty SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7943; www.amospa.com; 100 Jl Petitenget; massages from 200,000Rp; h9am-9pm)

With some of Asia’s top models lounging about it feels like you’ve stumbled into a Vogue shoot. In addition to massages, services range from haircare to pedicures and unisex waxing. Book ahead.

PranaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730840; www.pranaspabali.com; Jl Kunti 118X; massages from 450,000Rp; h9am-10pm)

A palatial Moorish fantasy that is easily the most lavishly decorated spa in Bali, Prana offers everything from basic hour-long massages to facials and all manner of beauty treatments.

Other Activities

Sate BaliCOOKING COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736734; Jl Kayu Aya 22; courses from 375,000Rp; h9.30am-1.30pm)

Restaurant Sate Bali runs this excellent Balinese cooking course. Students learn to prepare Balinese spices and sambals, which are then used to flavour duck, fish and pork dishes.

Jiwa Bikram YogaYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-841 3689; www.jiwabikramyogabali.com; Jl Petitenget 78; classes from 180,000Rp; h9am-8pm)

In a convenient location, this no-frills place offers several different types of yoga, including bikram, hot flow and yin.

4Sleeping

Seminyak has a wide range of accommodation, from world-class resorts to humble hotels hidden down backstreets.

Kerobokan and Seminyak are villa country, with walled developments running north from Seminyak and scattering among the rice fields.(Click here)

Seminyak

Ned's Hide-AwayGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731270; nedshide@dps.centrin.net.id; Gang Bima 3; r with fan/air-con from 180,000/300,000Rp; aW)

While its standards have slipped in recent times, Ned's remains a good budget choice with its mix of basic and more plush rooms. Wi-fi is only available in the reception area.

Raja GardensGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730494; jdw@eksadata.com; off Jl Camplung Tanduk; r fan/air-con from 400,000/600,000Rp; aWs)

Here since 1980, this old-school guesthouse has spacious, grassy grounds with fruit trees and a quiet spot located almost on the beach. The eight rooms are fairly basic but there are open-air bathrooms and plenty of potted plants. The pool is a nice spot to lounge by, and it's generally a mellow place popular with youngish couples.

Villa KarisaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-739395; www.villakarisabali.com; Jl Drupadi 100X; r US$89-200; aWs)

It's like visiting the gracious friends in Bali you wish you had. Ideally located on a little gang off busy Jl Drupadi, this large villa-style inn has a row of rooms filled with antiques and many comforts. Guests gather in the common room or around the luxurious 12m pool. Enjoy Javanese antique style in the Shiva room.

oOberoiHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730361; www.oberoihotels.com; Jl Kayu Aya; r incl breakfast from US$320; aiWs)

The beautifully understated Oberoi has been a refined Balinese-style beachside retreat since 1971. All accommodation options have private verandas, and as you move up in price, additional features include walled villas, ocean views and private pools. From the cafe that overlooks the almost-private sweep of beach to the numerous luxuries, this is a place to spoil yourself.

Luna2 StudiotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730402; www.luna2.com; Jl Sarinande 20; r incl breakfast US$300-405; aWs)

Is it Mondrian? Is it Roy Lichtenstein? We're not sure which modern artists are the inspiration for this eye-popping hotel, but we can say the results astound. The 14 boldly decorated studio apartments feature kitchens, gadgetry, balconies and have access to a rooftop bar looking over the ocean. A 16-seat cinema shows movies, and there's a Smart car for guest use.

SEMINYAK VILLAS

Whether you're in Bali for a honeymoon, romantic getaway or you're just looking to splurge, staying in your own villa is a sublime experience. All villas offer full privacy within a compound, with front gate, private pool, garden, butler and Zen-like serenity. Seminyak is most well known for its abundance of villas, so here are a few of our favourites.

Villa KubuVILLA$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731129; www.villakubu.com; Jl Raya Seminyak, Gang Plawa 33F; villa incl breakfast US$330; aWs)

A wonderful choice for those seeking that quintessential Balinese villa experience. In a residential locale, all private villas have their own pool, surrounded by landscaped Balinese gardens with frangipani. It has massive semi-outdoor bathrooms and luxurious interiors with all the mod cons. Breakfast is all you can eat and there's a free shuttle service.

SamayaVILLA$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl Kayu Aya; villas from US$600; aiWs)

Understated yet cultured, the Samaya is one of the best bets for a villa right on the beach in south Bali. It boasts 30 villas in a luxurious contemporary style, each featuring a private pool. The food, from breakfast onwards, is superb.

One ElevenVILLA$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731343; www.111resorts.com; Jl Pangkung Sari 3; r incl breakfast from US$550; aWs)

Hidden behind the minimalist facade of a suave Japanese restaurant, these villas have a 1960s modernist feel about them: cool, sophisticated and stylish. Each has a manicured lawn, a sparkling pool, a spa pavilion and an open lounge with full kitchen, where your private butler will cook up your breakfast. Contemporary rooms have icy air-conditioning; elegant white-tone bathrooms have stand-alone tubs.

Mutiara BaliHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734966; www.mutiarabali.com; Jl Braban 77; r US$75-140, villas from US$155; aiWs)

The 17 private villas here are exceptionally good value, each with an open lounge area looking out to a private plunge pool. While there are also hotel-style rooms, here it's all about the villas.

Kerobokan

M Boutique HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 4142; www.mboutiquehostel.com; Jl Petitenget 8; dm 150,000Rp; aiWs)

A tasteful and contemporary choice for backpackers, M Boutique's beds are capsule dorms, which come with the benefit of privacy. Each has shutter blinds, a small table, a reading light and a power point. The neatly trimmed lawn and small plunge pool add charm. Rates go up slightly on weekends.

Brown FeatherB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 2165; www.brownfeather.com; Jl Batu Belig 100; r incl breakfast 700,000-900,000Rp; aWs)

On the main road, but backing on to rice paddies, this B&B exudes a Dutch-Javanese colonial charm. Rooms mix simplicity with old-world character, such as wooden writing desks and washbasins made from old Singer sewing machines. For rice-field views, go for room 205 or 206. There's a small, attractive pool and free bicycle rental, too.

It's a few minutes' stroll to Kerobokan's fashionable eating strip, and a short taxi trip to the beach.

Taman Ayu CottageHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 0111; www.thetamanayu.com; Jl Petitenget; r incl breakfast from US$60; aiWs)

This great-value hotel has a fabulous location. Most of the 52 rooms are in two-storey blocks around a pool shaded by mature trees. Everything is a bit frayed around the edges, but all is forgotten when the bill comes.

W Retreat & Spa Bali – SeminyakRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 8106; www.wretreatbali.com; Jl Petitenget; r incl breakfast from US$320; aiWs)

Like many W hotels, the usual too-cute-for-comfort vibe is at work here (how 'bout an 'extreme wow' suite?), but both the location on a wave-tossed stretch of sand and the views are hard to quibble with. Stylish, hip bars, restaurants and smiling staff abound. The rooms all have balconies, but not all have ocean views.

5Eating

Jl Kayu Aya is the focus of Seminyak eating, but there are great choices for every budget virtually everywhere. Seminyak has developed a full-on cafe culture. Kerobokan, meanwhile, boasts some of Bali's best restaurants, both budget and top end.

Seminyak

Warung Aneka RasaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kayu Aya; meals from 20,000Rp; h7am-8pm)

Keeping things real in the heart of Seminyak's upmarket retail ghetto, this humble warung cooks up all the Indo classics in an inviting open-front cafe.

Warung Taman BambuBALINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-888 1567; Jl Plawa 10; mains from 25,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W)

This classic warung may look simple from the street but the comfy tables are – like the many fresh and spicy dishes on offer – a cut above the norm. There's a small stand for babi guling (suckling pig) right next door.

RevolverCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Kayu Aya; breakfast from 40,000Rp; h7am-6pm; aW)

Wander down a tiny gang and push through narrow wooden doors to reach this matchbox of a coffee bar that does an excellent selection of brews. There are just a few tables in the creatively retro room that's styled like a Wild West saloon; nab one and enjoy tasty fresh bites for breakfast and lunch. The juices are also worth a try.

oMama SanFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730436; www.mamasanbali.com; Jl Raya Kerobokan 135; mains 90,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm; aW)

One of Seminyak's most esteemed restaurants, this stylish warehouse-sized space is split into levels, with photographs hanging from exposed brick walls. The menu has an emphasis on creative dishes from across Southeast Asia. A long cocktail list provides liquid balm for the mojito set and has lots of tropical-flavoured pours.

oMotel MexicolaMEXICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736688; www.motelmexicolabali.com; Jl Kayu Jati 9; tacos 30,000Rp, mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-1am)

Far from your average tacqueria, Motel Mexicola is an extravaganza that channels a tropical version of a glitzy 1940s nightclub. Its huge space is decked out in kitschy neon and palm trees. The menu includes hand-pressed soft corn tortilla tacos filled with tempura prawn or shredded pork, along with meaty mains. Cocktails, served in copper kettles, go down superbly on a balmy evening.

Earth Cafe & MarketVEGETARIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-732805; www.earthcafebali.com; Jl Kayu Aya; mains from 40,000Rp; h7am-11pm; Wv)S

The good vibes are organic at this vegetarian cafe and store. Choose from creative salads, sandwiches or wholegrain vegan and raw-food goodies. It's most famous for its six-course 'Planet Platter' (75,000Rp). The beverage menu includes fresh juices and detox mixes.

Its Divine Earth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731964; www.facebook.com/divineearthbali; Jl Raya Basangkasa 1200A; h7am-11pm; aWv) restaurant is also worth visiting; it has an upstairs cinema that screens films nightly.

Rolling ForkITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-733 9633; Jl Kunti 1; mains from 75,000Rp; h8.30am-11pm; W)

A gnocchi-sized little trattoria, Rolling Fork serves excellent Italian fare. Breakfast features gorgeous baked goods and excellent coffees. Lunch and dinner include authentic and tasty homemade pastas, salads, seafood and more. The open-air dining room has an alluring retro charm; the Italian owners provide just the right accent.

Corner HouseCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730276; www.cornerhousebali.com; Jl Laksmana 10A; dishes 35,000-125,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)

With polished concrete floors, dangling light bulbs, distressed walls and vintage-style furniture, this cavernous cafe is typical of what's going on in Seminyak. A popular brunch spot, it does great coffee, big breakfasts, homemade sausage rolls and sirloin steak sandwiches. There's also a small shady courtyard and a more relaxed, breezy upstairs dining area.

UltimoITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-738720; www.balinesia.co.id; Jl Kayu Aya 104; meals 40,000-210,000Rp; h5pm-1am)

This vast and always popular restaurant thrives in a part of Seminyak that's as thick as a good risotto with eateries. Choose a table overlooking the street action, out the back in one of the gardens or inside. Ponder the surprisingly authentic menu and then let the army of servers take charge.

SisterfieldsCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 386 0507; www.sisterfieldsbali.com; Jl Kayu Cendana 7; mains from 60,000Rp; h7am-5pm; aW)

Trendy Sisterfields does classic brekkies such as smashed avocado, and more inventive dishes such as truffled oyster mushrooms with duck eggs and crispy pig ears. There are also hipster faves like pulled-pork rolls and lobster sliders. Grab a seat at a booth, the counter or in the rear courtyard.

Fat GajahASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-868 8212; www.fatgajah.com; Jl Basangkasa 21; dumplings 52,000-80,000Rp; h11am-10.30pm; W)

Fat Gajah is all about the dumplings, prepared with mostly organic ingredients. They come fried or steamed with innovate fillings such as beef rendang, black-pepper crab, kimchi tuna or lemongrass lamb.

Ginger MoonASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-734533; www.gingermoonbali.com; Jl Kayu Aya 7; mains 70,000-160,000Rp; h11am-midnight; aW)

Australian Dean Keddell is one of scores of young chefs lured to Bali to set up restaurants. His creation is a very appealing, airy space, with carved wood and palms. The menu features a 'Best of' list of favourites, served in portions designed for sharing and grazing.

Kerobokan

oNookASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3806 0060; Jl Umalas I; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)

Sublimely positioned among the rice fields, this casual, open-air cafe is popular for its creative takes on Asian fare. It's got a modern vibe mixed with tropical flavours. Good breakfasts and lunchtime sandwiches.

Warung EnyBALINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 6892; Jl Petitenget; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am-11pm)

The eponymous Eny cooks everything herself at this tiny open-front warung nearly hidden behind various potted plants. Look for the roadside sign that captures the vibe: 'The love cooking'. The seafood, such as large prawns smothered in garlic, is delicious and most ingredients are organic. Ask about Eny's fun cooking classes.

Gusto Gelato & CoffeeGELATERIA$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-552 2190; www.gusto-gelateria.com; Jl Raya Mertanadi 46; gelato from 22,000Rp; h10am-10pm; aW)

Bali's best gelato is made fresh throughout the day, with unique flavours such as avocado choc-chip, dragonfruit, and kamangi (lemon basil). The classics are all here, too.

Warung SulawesiINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Petitenget; meals from 30,000Rp; h10am-6pm)

Find a table in this quiet family compound and enjoy fresh Balinese and Indonesian food served in classic warung style. Choose a rice, then pick from a captivating array of dishes that are always at their peak at noon. The long beans are yum!

Warung SobatSEAFOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 8922; Jl Batubelig 11; mains 37,000-90,000Rp; h11am-11.30pm; W)

Set in a sort of bungalow-style brick courtyard, this old-fashioned restaurant excels at fresh Balinese seafood with an Italian accent (lots of garlic!).

oBikuFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-857 0888; www.bikubali.com; Jl Petitenget 888; meals 40,000-120,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)

Housed in a 150-year-old teak joglo (traditional Javanese house), hugely popular Biku retains the timeless vibe of its predecessor. The menu combines Indonesian and other Asian with Western influences; book for lunch or dinner. It's also popular for high tea (from 11am to 5pm; 220,000Rp for two people), served Asian-style – with samosa, spring rolls etc, and green or oolong tea – or traditional – with cucumber sandwiches etc.

oWatercressCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0280 8030; www.watercressbali.com; Jl Batubelig 21A; mains from 65,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W)

A hit with the Bondi hipster set, this leafy roadside cafe does a roaring trade. As well as hearty breakfasts and gourmet burgers, it prides itself upon the healthy mains and salads. Excellent coffee, beer on tap and cocktails are other reasons to stop by.

Saigon StreetVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-897 4007; www.saigonstreetbali.com; Jl Petitenget 77; mains 50,000-175,000Rp; h11.30am-11pm; W)

Modern, vibrant and buzzing, this new Vietnamese restaurant lures in punters with its swanky neon decor. Creative Vietnamese dishes include peppery betel leaves filled with slow-cooked octopus, an impressive rice-paper roll selection, along with curries, pho and grilled meats cooked on aromatic coconut wood.

oSardineSEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 397 8111; www.sardinebali.com; Jl Petitenget 21; meals US$20-50; h11.30am-4pm & 6-11pm; W)

Seafood fresh from the famous Jimbaran market is the star at this elegant yet intimate, casual yet stylish restaurant. It's in a beautiful bamboo pavilion, with open-air tables overlooking a private rice field patrolled by Sardine’s own flock of ducks. The inventive bar is a must and stays open until 1am. The menu changes to reflect what’s fresh. Booking is vital.

SarongFUSION$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7809; www.sarongbali.com; Jl Petitenget 19X; mains 120,000-180,000Rp; h6.30-10.45pm; W)

Sarong is an elegant affair by the owners of Seminyak's excellent Mama San. The cuisine spans the globe, and its small plates are popular with those wishing to pace an evening and enjoy the commodious bar. No children allowed.

BarbacoaBARBECUE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-739235; www.barbacoabali.com; Jl Petitenget 14; mains 110,000-250,000Rp; hnoon-midnight; W)

Adding another star to Jl Petitenget's fashionable culinary strip, Barbacoa is an impressive space with soaring timber ceilings, colourful mosaic tiled floors and outlooks to rice fields. The food is all about charcoal meats; the restaurant's walls are lined with firewood to cook up its menu of Latin American dishes.

DON'T MISS

BEACH SUNSETS

While there are plenty of fancy beach clubs and rooftop bars where you can indulge in south Bali's magical sunsets, nothing beats heading to the beach. Grab a plastic chair or a bean bag and plonk yourself on the sand with a cheap, cold Bintang in hand and enjoy the show.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Like your vision at 2am, the division between restaurant, bar and club blurs in Seminyak. Although the area lacks any real hard-core clubs where you can greet the dawn (or vice versa), stalwarts can head south to the rough edges of Kuta and Legian in the wee hours.

Numerous bars popular with gay and straight crowds line Jl Camplung Tanduk.

oPotato HeadBEACH CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-473 7979; www.ptthead.com; Jl Petitenget; h11am-2am; W)

Bali's original beach club is still one of the best. Wander up off the sand or follow a long drive off Jl Petitenget and you’ll find much to amuse, from an enticing pool to a swanky restaurant, plus lots of lounges and patches of lawn for chillin' the night away under the stars.

oLa FavelaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730603; www.lafavela.com; Jl Kayu Aya 177X; hnoon-late; W)

Full of bohemian flair, La Favela is one of Bali's coolest and most original night spots. Themed rooms lead you on a confounding tour from dimly lit speakeasy cocktail lounges and antique dining rooms to graffiti-splashed bars. Tables are cleared after 11pm to make way for DJs and a dance floor.

It's equally popular for its garden restaurant, which has a Mediterranean-inspired menu.

oAnomali CoffeeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.anomalicoffee.com; Jl Kayu Aya 7B; coffee from 26,000Rp; h6.30am-10pm; aW)

While there's no shortage of cafes in Seminyak, for the serious coffee drinker Anomali remains the standout. Single-origin beans are sourced from across the archipelago and roasted on-site. Take your pick of V-60 drip coffee, Aeropress, siphon or espresso made by expert baristas in cool warehouse-style surrounds. It also sells packaged ground beans.

Ku De TaCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736969; www.kudeta.net; Jl Kayu Aya 9; h8am-late; W)

Ku De Ta teems with Bali’s beautiful people (including those whose status is purely aspirational). Scenesters perfect their ‘bored’ look over drinks during the day while gazing at the fine stretch of beach. Sunset brings out crowds, which snatch cigars at the bar or dine on eclectic fare at tables. The music throbs with increasing intensity through the night.

La PlanchaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730603; off Jl Camplung Tanduk; h8am-midnight)

The most substantial of the beach bars along the beach walk south of Jl Camplung Tanduk, La Plancha has its share of ubiquitous brightly coloured umbrellas and beanbags on the sand, plus a menu of Spanish-accented bites. After sunset, expect DJs and beach parties.

Bali JoeLGBT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-847 5771; www.balijoebar.com; Jl Camplung Tanduk; h3pm-3am; W)

One of several lively LGBT venues along this strip. Drag queens and go-go dancers rock the house nightly.

7Shopping

Seminyak shops could occupy days of your holiday. Designer boutiques (Bali has a thriving fashion industry), retro-chic stores, slick galleries, wholesale emporiums and family-run workshops are just some of the choices.

In Kerobokan look for boutiques interspersed with the trendy restaurants on Jl Petitenget.

oDrifterCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-733274; www.driftersurf.com; Jl Kayu Aya 50; h7.30am-11pm)

High-end surf fashion, surfboards, gear, cool books and brands such as Obey and Wegener. Started by two savvy surfer dudes, the shop stocks goods noted for their individuality and high quality. There's also a small cafe-bar and a patio.

AshitabaHANDICRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Seminyak 6; h9am-9pm)

Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, produces the intricate and beautiful rattan items sold here. Containers, bowls, purses and more (from 50,000Rp) display the very fine weaving.

BatheBEAUTY, HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 388 640; www.bathestore.com; Jl Batu Belig 88; h7am-10pm)

Double-down on your villa’s romance with the handmade candles, air diffusers, aromatherapy oils, bath salts and homewares at this shop that evokes the feel of a 19th-century French dispensary.

Lulu YasmineCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736763; www.luluyasmine.com; Jl Kayu Aya; h9am-10pm)

Designer Luiza Chang gets inspiration from her worldwide travels for her elegant line of women's clothes.

BiasaCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-730308; www.biasabali.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 36; h9am-9pm)

This is Bali-based designer Susanna Perini’s premier shop. Her line of elegant tropical wear for men and women combines cottons, silks and embroidery. The outlet store is at Jl Basangkasa 47.

Paul RoppCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735613; www.paulropp.com; Jl Kayu Aya; h9am-9pm)

The main shop of one of Bali’s premier high-end fashion designers for men and women. Most goods are made in the hills above Denpasar. And what goods they are: rich silks and cottons, vivid to the point of gaudy, with hints of Ropp’s roots in the tie-dyed 1960s.

Blue GlueCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-731130; www.blue-glue.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 16E; h9am-9pm)

'The dream bikini of all women' is the motto of this famous brand that makes a big statement with its tiny wear. The swimwear is French designed and made right in Bali. There's also an outlet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Basangkasa; h9am-8pm), with prices as small as its bikinis.

Lucy's BatikTEXTILES, CLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %085100951275; www.lucysbatikbali.com; Jl Raya Basangkasa 88; h9.30am-9pm)

Great for both men and women, Lucy's is a good spot to shop for the finest batik. Shirts, dresses, sarongs and bags are mostly handwoven or handpainted. It also sells material by the metre.

This Is A Love SongCLOTHING

(TIALS; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thisisalovesong.com; Jl Kayu Aya 3; h10am-10pm)

One for Gen-Y fashionistas, this quirky streetwear label born out of Bali has clothed stars from Miley Cyrus to Katy Perry.

SamsaraCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.samsaraboutique.com; Jl Raya Seminyak; h10am-10pm)

True Balinese-made textiles are increasingly rare as production moves to Java and other places with cheaper labour. But the local family behind this tidy shop still sources hand-painted Batik for a range of exquisite casual wear.

DuztyCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Seminyak 67; h9am-10pm)

In an industry dominated by foreigners, it's refreshing to see a local label. T-shirts here are designed by a young Balinese lad, Rahsun. They feature edgy rock-and-roll and counter-culture themes. There are also a few women's tank tops.

Periplus BookshopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-736851; Jl Kayu Aya, Seminyak Sq; h8am-10pm)

A large outlet of the island-wide chain of lavishly fitted bookshops. In addition to design books numerous enough to have you fitting out even your garage with ‘Bali Style’, it stocks bestsellers, magazines and newspapers.

8Information

Seminyak is generally more hassle-free than nearby Kuta and Legian. But it's worth reading up on the warnings (Click here), especially surf and water pollution, which also apply here.

8Getting There & Around

Metered taxis are easily hailed. A trip to Seminyak from the airport with the airport taxi cartel costs about 120,000Rp; to the airport, about 50,000Rp.

Taxis from the airport to Kerobokan will cost at least 150,000Rp. In either direction at rush hour the trip may verge on an hour. Note also that Jl Raya Kerobokan can come to a fume-filled stop for extended periods.

You can beat the traffic, save the ozone and have a good stroll by walking along the beach; Legian is only about 15 minutes away from Seminyak.

DON'T MISS

BEACHES: KEROBOKAN TO ECHO BEACH

The 4km of sand curving between Kerobokan's Batubelig Beach and Echo Beach has several uncrowded strands that can be reached by road or on foot from either direction.

ABerewa Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; parking motorbike/car 2000/3000Rp) A greyish beach, secluded among rice fields and villas, about 2km up the sand from Seminyak. There are a couple of surfer cafes by the pounding sea.

APrancak Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Marked by the large temple complex of Pura Dalem Prancak. There is usually at least one vendor at this quiet beach.

ANelayan Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) A collection of fishing boats and huts marks this very mellow stretch of sand that fronts 'villa-land' just inland.

ABatu Bolong Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) The pantai (beach) at Batu Bolong boasts the large Pura Batumejan complex, which has a striking pagoda-like temple. There are surfboard rentals (100,000Rp per day) and impromptu lessons available, and some groovy cafes. About 200m further on there’s a slightly upscale beach vendor with comfy loungers for rent and drinks for sale.

AEcho Beach (Pantai Batu Mejan; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) Surfers, and those who watch them, flock here for the high-tide left-hander that regularly tops 2m. The greyish sand right in front of the developments can vanish at high tide, but you'll find wide strands both east and west. Batu Bolong beach is 500m east.

APererenan Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) For the moment, this laid-back northerly surf beach comprises only a few guesthouses and beach bars overlooking its dark tanned sands. It’s an easy 300m walk from Echo Beach across sand and rock formations (or about 1km by road).

Bali

Bali

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Stay

Bali Highlights

BENOA BAY RECLAMATION PROJECT

NYEPI

TOP BALI READS

WHAT'S IN A NAME

BALI WEBSITES

South Bali

Kuta & Legian

SURFING IN BALI

BALI FOR KIDS

BEST BEACHES

BEST WATER FUN

BEST ADVENTURE PARKS

BEST FOR ANIMALS

Seminyak & Kerobokan

Seminyak

SEMINYAK VILLAS

Kerobokan

Seminyak

Kerobokan

DON'T MISS

BEACH SUNSETS

DON'T MISS

BEACHES: KEROBOKAN TO ECHO BEACH