Bengkulu
Cut off from its neighbours by the Bukit Barisan range, Bengkulu remains Sumatra’s most isolated province. Those travellers who make it this far are rewarded with the simple pleasures of ordinary Indonesian life and with beautiful, largely unexplored countryside and jungle around the main city.
History
Little is known of Bengkulu before it came under the influence of the Majapahits from Java at the end of the 13th century. Until then it appears to have existed in almost total isolation, divided between a number of small kingdoms such as Sungai Lebong in the Curup area. It even developed its own cuneiform script, ka-ga-nga.
In 1685, after having been kicked out of Banten in Java, the British moved into Bengkulu (Bencoolen, as they called it) in search of pepper. The venture was not exactly a roaring success. Isolation, boredom and constant rain sapped the British will, and malaria ravaged their numbers.
The colony was still not a likely prospect in 1818 when Sir Stamford Raffles arrived as its British-appointed ruler. In the short time he was there, Raffles made the pepper market profitable and planted cash crops of coffee, nutmeg and sugar cane. In 1824 Bengkulu was traded for the Dutch outpost of Melaka as a guarantee not to interfere with British interests in Singapore.
From 1938 to 1941 Bengkulu was a home-in-domestic-exile for Indonesia’s first president, Sukarno.
A series of earthquakes struck the province in 2007.
Bengkulu
%0736 / Pop 296,000
A real hidden gem, the quiet provincial capital of Bengkulu is quite possibly the nicest city in Sumatra. Its pedestrian-friendly streets are not desperately traffic-clogged, the beach is kept clean by locals, and there’s a decent eating scene to boot. The city itself is quite light on attractions, beyond a few interesting reminders of the colonial era and an expansive beach. But travellers are beginning to discover the multiple natural attractions beyond the city limits, which make Bengkulu an excellent destination in its own right, rather than just a handy stopover between Padang and Bukittinggi to the north and Krui and Bandarlampung to the south.
1Sights
Benteng MarlboroughFORT
(admission 5000Rp; h8am-7pm)
Set on a hill overlooking the Indian Ocean, the star-shaped Benteng Marlborough, a former British fort, became the seat of British power in Bengkulu after 1719, when it replaced nearby Fort York. Despite its sturdy defences the fort was attacked and overrun twice – once by a local rebellion just after its completion in 1719, and then by the French in 1760. The old British gravestones at the entrance make poignant reading.
There are a few interesting old engravings and copies of official correspondence from the time of British rule, and you can also see where the Dutch incarcerated Indonesia’s president Sukarno during his internal exile.
Pantai PanjangBEACH
Bengkulu’s main beach, Pantai Panjang, is 7km of clean white sand. Strong surf and currents make it unsafe for swimming, but there are decent surf breaks towards the northern and southern ends of the beach, and, unusually for Sumatra, there’s a jogging track that stretches the length of the beach, shaded by pine trees.
Pulau TikusISLAND
Reachable from Bengkulu via a 30- to 40-minute boat ride, this small island is surrounded by coral reef, making it an excellent snorkelling destination. It’s 15km west of Bengkulu; get a fishing boat to take you out here.
TTours
Wild Sumatra AdventuresADVENTURE TOUR
(%0811 730 8740; www.wildsumatra.com)
The indefatigable Josh and his team have done wonders in terms of opening up the Bengkulu region to adventurous travellers. Whether you’re into rock climbing or trekking, or simply want to swim in pristine, remote waterfalls, these guys can help you organise your adventure.
4Sleeping
Yadi Surf CampSURF CAMP$
(%8127-3309595; Jl Baai; r incl meals from 250,000Rp)
At the southern end of the city, and not far from the beach, Yadi’s place is the heart and soul of the local surfer community, with boards, bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Yadi and Vivi also run a good restaurant.
Vista HotelHOTEL$
(%0736-20820; Jl MT Haryono 67; r 75,000-170,000Rp; a)
The spic-and-span rooms with fan or air-con at this friendly cheapie are particularly useful for their location near the bus agents.
Hotel SantikaBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%0736-25858; www.santika.com; Jl Raya Jati 45, Sawah Lebar; r 605,000-940,000Rp; aWs)
The latest outpost of the Santika empire is Bengkulu’s smartest hotel. Expect clean, simple lines and contemporary design, complemented by such perks as a gym, pool and massage spa. The restaurant is decent and the service is attentive and friendly.
Nala Seaside HotelHOTEL$$
(%0736-344855; Jl Pariwisata 2, Pantai Panjang; bungalow 333,000Rp, d 500,000Rp; aW)
Just across the street from Panjang Beach, in the southern part of town, this quiet hotel lets you choose between bungalow rooms with shady porches and larger, smarter rooms inside the main building.
Splash HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0736-23333; www.hotel-splash.com; Jl Sudirman 48; r incl breakfast 606,000-999,000Rp; aW)
Bengkulu’s first stab at a designer hotel is a goodie and features a colourful designer lobby and well-appointed rooms with modern bathrooms. There’s an on-site cafe and restaurant and the location on one of the city’s top food streets, lined with myriad stalls in the evenings, is a boon for the hungry.
5Eating & Drinking
In the evening, several warungs and food tents serving freshly grilled seafood cause a traffic jam along Jl Sudirman. Be sure to try the local favourites, tempoyak (fish with fermented durian) and martabak (stuffed savoury pancake). Barbecued fish is also the main feature at beachside shacks.
SaimensBAKERY$
(Jl Suprapto; mains from 15,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
A decent bakery chain that doesn’t just go for cakes and breads – you can also get fried chicken and mie goreng to take away.
Sumpit MasCHINESE$
(Jl Adam Malik 25; mains from 35,000Rp; hlunch & dunner)
The best Chinese in town, particularly famous for its steamboat (bring a bunch of friends). A long list of à la carte dishes are also available; seafood is their strong point.
oMarolaSEAFOOD$$
(Jl Pariwisata; mains around 50,000Rp; h8am-8.30pm Tue-Sun, to 4pm Mon)
Classic, locally famous seafood joint by the beach, near central Bengkulu. Choose from ultra-fresh giant prawns, squid and fish, pay by weight, and pick from an array of sauces you’d like your seafood cooked in. Sensational stuff.
AlohaINTERNATIONAL$$
(Jl Pariwisata; mains from 30,000Rp; h9.30am-11.30pm; v)
This Australian-owned place is just across the street from the beach. It serves Bengkulu’s best pizza and burgers as well as some Indonesian staples. A great place to nurse your Bintang too.
Edu CoffeeCOFFEE
(Jl Suprapto 1-2; h9am-8pm)
The most central place in Bengkulu to get your caffeine fix is this cute cafe that serves decent espresso, cappuccino and other concoctions made with local beans.
8Information
BNI BankBANK
(Jl S Parman)
BNI ATMs allow for the largest withdrawals, up to 2,000,000Rp.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(Jl RA Hadi 3; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)
Opposite the Thomas Parr monument.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Bengkulu’s airport, Fatmawati Soekarno Airport, has 10 daily flights to Jakarta with Citilink, Lion Air or Sriwijaya Air. Garuda has a daily flight to Palembang, and Lion Air and Wings Air have two daily flights to Pulau Batam.
Bus
Bengkulu has two bus terminals. The Air Sebakul terminal, 12km east of town, serves long-distance destinations, while the Panorama terminal, 7km east, is used by local buses. It is much easier to go to the bus company offices on Jl MT Haryono, however. Ask around and you’ll quickly be steered to the most appropriate company for your destination. Jakarta is served by large buses, while other destinations are served by minibuses.
BUSES FROM BENGKULU
| Destination | Fare(Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bandarlampung | 250,000 | 12-14 | several daily |
| Bukittinggi | 140,000 | 17 | several daily |
| Jakarta | 300,000 | 22-30 | numerous daily |
| Krui | 200,000 | 10 | several daily |
| Padang | 140,000 | 15 | several daily |
| Sungai Penuh | 150,000 | 10-12 | 2 daily |
8Getting Around
Bengkulu’s airport is 10km southeast of town. Airport taxis charge around 80,000Rp.
Angkot fares to almost anywhere in town cost 4000Rp and ojek around 10,000Rp. There are no fixed routes for angkot; tell the driver where you want to go and specify the neighbourhood. Angkot and ojek also greet buses when they arrive at Jl MT Haryono or Jl Bali.
Around Bengkulu
The Bengkulu region has a huge wealth of attractions that are only beginning to be explored by travellers. These range from multiday volcano and jungle treks, hot springs, rock climbing and water sports on lakes and rivers to participating in elephant conservation and interacting with locals in remote villages. Wild Sumatra Adventures is on hand to advise and organise, guided by your specific interests. Prices are based on two participants; the more participants, the cheaper it is.
South of Bengkulu, en route to Krui, there are some decent offshore surf breaks that you can stop to explore if you have your own wheels. Wild Sumatra Adventures can also help to organise homestays in Kaur, halfway along, if you wish to experience low-key, friendly village life.
1Sights & Activities
Bukit KabaVOLCANO
This active volcano with three craters makes for a relatively straightforward ascent with two trail options: an easier gravel path or tougher trail through dense jungle. Both take around three hours. From the top there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and a whiff of sulphur from the single active crater. Camping near the summit so you can explore the craters is highly recommended. Bukit Taba is around 30km from Curup, which is an 84km drive northeast of Bengkulu.
Bukit DaunVOLCANO
(for 2 people 3,800,000Rp)
Famous for its seven multicoloured boiling pools, the whitest allegedly home to the Kawah Putri spirit who’ll come if you call her, Bukit Daun makes for a challenging three-day adventure. It involves trekking through tobacco and coffee plantations and dense jungle, two nights camping in the jungle and a pit stop to wash in a small waterfall.
Seblat Elephant Conservation CentreELEPHANT INTERACTION
(two days/one night for 2 people 6,500,000Rp)
On a two-day visit to this centre, located near Mukomuko en route between Bengkulu and Sungai Penuh, you can assist the mahouts with washing the elephants, and go on elephant rides. While the Seblat Elephant Conservation Centre is one of only a handful of legitimate elephant conservation centres in Indonesia, elephant rides present various animal welfare issues worth looking into if you’re considering that option. Longer visits (up to 10 days) can involve joining jungle patrols on the lookout for wild elephants and tigers, and camping overnight in the jungle.
Funds generated by visitors contribute to the care of elephants in residence, the protection of wild elephants in the region, and jungle patrols to prevent poaching.
Beringin Tiga & Curug EmbunHIKING
(for 2 people 2,000,000Rp)
This is a straightforward hike through coffee and palm-sugar plantations, finishing at a camp site near a hot spring. From here you can take short hikes to visit the Beringin Tiga falls and the remarkable Curug Embun falls, which comprises two falls: one cold and the other fed by hot springs, with great swimming where the two meet. Safety ropes assist descents to Curug Embun.
Bukit KandisROCK CLIMBING
(rock climbing 4 people 1,500,000Rp)
With great views of the surrounding jungle and the Indian Ocean, this karst mountain throws down the gauntlet to serious climbers. There’s also great potential for camping wild and a smaller rock face suitable for beginner climbers. It’s an hour’s drive from Bengkulu.
Goa KacamataROCK CLIMBING
(rock climbing for up to 4 people 1,500,000Rp)
This 40m rock face, distinguished by two caves that look like eyes, is suitable for both beginner and intermediate climbers. It’s near Muara Aman, around four hours’ drive north of Bengkulu. The trip can be combined with a dip in Air Putih with its 6m cliffs and nearby hot springs.
Riau
The landscape and character of Riau province is distinct from the northern and western rind of Sumatra. Rather than mountains and volcanoes, Riau’s character was carved by rivers and narrow ocean passages. Trading towns sprang up along the important navigation route of the Strait of Melaka, across which Riau claims cultural cousins.
For the port towns, such as Pekanbaru, and the Riau Islands, proximity to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur has ensured greater access to the outside world than the towns of the interior Sumatran jungle. The discovery of oil and gas reserves has also built an educated and middle-class population in Pekanbaru, though it has failed to make the port appealing. For several months during the dry season, the Riau province (and Pekanbaru in particular) is plagued with smoke from the burning palm-oil plantations, which makes it unbearable to visit and causes flight cancellations.
The interior of the province more closely resembles Sumatra as a whole: sparse population, dense jungle, surviving pockets of nomadic peoples (including the Sakai, Kubu and Jambisal) and endangered species, such as the Sumatran rhinoceros and tiger.
History
Riau’s position at the southern entrance to the Strait of Melaka, the gateway for trade between India and China, was strategically significant. From the 16th century, the Riau Islands were ruled by a variety of Malay kingdoms, which had to fight off constant attacks by pirates and the Portuguese, Dutch and English. The Dutch eventually won control over the Strait of Melaka, and mainland Riau (then known as Siak) became their colony when the Sultan of Johor surrendered in 1745. However, Dutch interest lay in international trade, and it made little effort to develop the province.
Oil was discovered around Pekanbaru by US engineers before WWII, and the country around Pekanbaru is criss-crossed by pipelines that connect the oil wells to refineries at Dumai.
Pekanbaru
%0761 / Pop 1,031,000
Indonesia’s oil capital comes with all the hustle and bustle of modern cities and with the added plague of smoke from the burning oil-palm plantations that periodically shuts down the city’s airport during the dry season.
The main reason to pass through Pekanbaru is if you have your heart set on an old-school journey by boat between Singapore and Sumatra or if you wish to take a boat from Dumai to Pulau Batam.
The best place to overnight is around the intersection of Jl Sudirman and Jl Teuku Umar where there are ATMs, good food and accommodation options.
Pekanbaru’s best street for eating is Jl Gatot Subrato, two blocks south (from the river) of Jl Teuku Umar. There’s a good food court on the top floor of the Pekanbaru Mall on the corner of Jl Teuku Umar and Jl Sudirman.
4Sleeping & Eating
Red Planet PekanbaruDESIGN HOTEL$$
(%0761-851008; www.redplanethotels.com; Jl Tengku Zainal Abidin 23; r 288,000Rp; aW)
This centrally located, smart hotel is just a couple of blocks from the main Jl Sudirman. Its snug rooms are all blonde wood, plenty of light and contemporary furnishings.
Pondok Patin HM YunusSEAFOOD$$
(Jl Kaharudin Nasution 1; mains from 50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Worth the cab ride south of the airport, along the southern extension of Jl Sudirman, this seafood restaurant has earned a loyal contingent of local fans with its version of the hot and sour asam pedan ikan patin, a dish involving fresh local fish. Other fish and seafood dishes are also well worth a nibble.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Pekanbaru’s airport, Sultan Syarif Kasim II Airport (www.sultansyarifkasim2-airport.co.id), is 10km south of the city.
Boat
Pekanbaru’s Sungai Duku port is at the end of Jl Sultan Syarif Qasyim. From the intersection of Jl Sudirman and Jl Teuku Umarit it’s a short ojek ride.
Dumai Express (%0765 33966; Jl Nangka 24) is one of several companies offering daily ferry services at noon from the Sungai Duku port to Sekupang port on Pulau Batam (186,000Rp, five to six hours). Minibuses do hotel pickup at around 7.30am. Combined minibus-and-boat tickets are available from Dumai Express’ office at Sungai Duku port and at another main office on Jl Nangka around 4km southwest of Pekanbaru’s main intersection.
Bus
All buses depart from Pekanbaru’s main bus terminal, Terminal Nangka , 5km west of the city centre. Note, though, that buses to Bukittinggi depart between 2pm and 6pm from the southwestern outskirts of town rather than the main bus terminal. A taxi to the Bukittinggi bus departure point is around 80,000Rp.
TRANSPORT FROM PEKANBARU
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Bandung | Indonesia AirAsia | daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air | 19 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | AirAsia | 2 daily |
| Medan | Lion Air | 2 daily |
| Melacca | Malindo Air | daily |
| Pulau Batam | Citilink, Lion Air | 4 daily |
| Singapore | Silk Air | Mon, Fri |
| Surabaya | Citilink | daily |
| Yogyakarta | Citilink | daily |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bengkulu | 210,000 | 15 | 5pm daily |
| Bukittinggi | 60,000 | 8 | numerous daily |
| Dumai | 65,000 | 5 | hourly from 7am |
| Jambi | 260,000 | 12 | 2 daily |
8Getting Around
Airport taxis and taxis from the bus terminal charge around 100,000Rp. The city’s Trans Metro (rapid bus transit) service runs along Jl Sudirman to the bus terminal (5000Rp).
DUMAI TO MELAKA BY SEA
Like most of Pekanbaru’s oil, travellers enter and exit Dumai through its busy port. Ferries also link Dumai to Melaka and Port Klang (for Kuala Lumpur) and also to Pulau Batam. Buses connect Bukittinggi to Dumai if you’re dead keen on transiting between Sumatra and Malaysia without flying or if you have a motorbike. (Ulrich at Rajawali Homestay in Bukittinggi can explain the formalities of transporting a motorbike by onion boat between the two countries).
Dumai has less-than-thrilling accommodation, but if you time it right, it’s relatively straighforward to link to or from Bukittinggi without overnighting.
From Dumai there are two ferries to Melaka (per person 300,000Rp, around two to three hours), departing at 11am and 1.30pm daily. If you’re travelling from Bukittinggi, AWR Tours & Travel has a nightly minibus (around 10 hours) linking with the ferry’s morning departure.
A ferry runs from Port Klang to Dumai at 10.30am daily, returning at 1pm (270,000Rp, three hours).
If you’re fresh from Malaysia, the port area is a bit of a scrum, so keep an eye out for AWR Tours & Travel, which runs shared minibuses (per person 130,000Rp) direct to Bukittinggi. There are also frequent buses from Dumai to Padang (150,000Rp, 12 hours).
Pulau Batam
%0778 / Pop 1,143,000
Batam’s golf resorts and casinos attract a weekender contingent both from the city-state and mainland China, while the seedier local bars provide employment for Indonesian women from impoverished parts of Sumatra and ‘happy endings’ for their customers. For travellers, Batam is a soft introduction to Indonesia, a handy transport hub with connections to many different parts of the country. It can also be a sort of purgatory – a cut-rate Singapore with shopping malls but none of the charm – if you’re winding up your stay in Indonesia here before crossing the strait to Singapore.
8Information
Most travellers to Batam arrive at the northern port of Sekupang or at Batam Centre by boat from Singapore, or else fly into Hang Nadim Airport. On Batam, Singapore dollars are as easy to spend as Indonesian rupiah.
Useful websites include www.batams.com, www.enjoybatam.com and www.batamtourism.com.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The Hang Nadim Airport is located on the eastern side of Pulau Batam.
FLIGHTS FROM PULAU BATAM
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Balikpapan | Lion Air | daily |
| Bandarlampung | Garuda | daily |
| Bandung | Lion Air, Wings Air | 3 daily |
| Bengkulu | Lion Air | 3 daily |
| Dumai | TransNusa | daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air | 16 daily |
| Jambi | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 3 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | Malindo Air | daily |
| Medan | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 8 daily |
| Padang | Citilink, Lion Air | 5 daily |
| Palembang | Citilink, Lion Air | 3 daily |
| Pekanbaru | Lion Air | 5 daily |
| Semarang | Lion Air | daily |
| Surabaya | Citilink | 5 daily |
| Yogyakarta | Lion Air | daily |
Boat
To Pulau Bintan
The ferry dock at Telaga Punggur, 30km southeast of Nagoya, is the main port for frequent speedboats to Bintan’s Tanjung Pinang harbour (55,000Rp, 45 minutes) as well as the twice-daily RORO (Roll On Roll Off) car ferry that departs Batam at 10am and 4pm and Bintan at 8am and 1pm (14,500Rp, two hours). Bintan Resort Ferries (http://brf-batam.blogspot.com) run from Telaga Punggur to the BBT Ferry Terminal in Bintan’s Lagoi resort area (110,000Rp, 1½ hours, four daily).
To Pekanbaru
From Batam’s Sekupang port, Dumai Express (PT Lestari Indoma Bahari; %0765-31820; Sekupang Domestic Terminal) and Batam Jet (%0765-35888; Sekupang Domestic Terminal) run daily ferries (300,000Rp to 370,000Rp, four to five hours) to the port of Tanjung Buton on mainland Sumatra. From there a minibus (around three hours) links to Pekanbaru.
To Malaysia
Passenger ferries (280,000Rp, two hours, 15 daily) run between Johor Bahru’s Stulang Laut port and Batam’s Sekupang.
To Singapore
Frequent BatamFast (www.batamfast.com), Sindo Ferry (www.sindoferry.com.sg) and Majestic Fast Ferry (www.majesticfastferry.com.sg) services connect Sekupang and Batam Centre on Pulau Batam to HarbourFront in Singapore, with departures between 6am and 9.20pm; all charge S$17 one way. There is a S$7 harbour-departure tax upon leaving Batam and an hour time difference between Indonesia and Singapore.
FERRIES TO SINGAPORE
| Ferry Name | Departure Location | Frequency |
| BatamFast | Batam Centre | 12 daily |
| BatamFast | Sekupang | 9 daily |
| Sindo Ferry | Batam Centre | 12 daily |
| Sindo Ferry | Sekupang | 6 daily |
| Majestic Fast Ferry | Batam Centre | 12 daily |
| Majestic Fast Ferry | Sekupang | 9 daily |
8Getting Around
Taxis are the primary way to get around Pulau Batam. They cost around 140,000Rp to Sekupang and 100,000Rp to Nagoya.
Nagoya
This is the original boom town, showing a lot more skin than you’ll find in the rest of Sumatra. The heart of town is the Nagoya Entertainment District, dotted with beer bars, shopping malls and massage parlours. It ain’t pretty, but Nagoya is ultimately functional, and a good place for dining out and an overnight stay if you’re travelling to or from Singapore by boat.
4Sleeping & Eating
For local warungs, head to the night market or the big and raucous Pujasera Nagoya. The Nagoya Hill Mall has a specialist food street, which offers many different cuisines and there are a couple of good seafood restaurants by the mall entrance.
Hotel Sinar BulanHOTEL$
(%0778-456757; Komp Polaris Sakti Blok A 9-11; r 230,000Rp; aW)
Friendly hotel just a couple of blocks from the Nagoya Hill Mall and various eateries. Rooms are unmemorable but clean and air-conditioned.
Amaris Hotel Nagoya HillHOTEL$$
(%0778-743 0488; www.amarishotel.com; Komp. Ruko Nagoya Hill Blok I 1-16, Jl Teuku Umar; r 500,000-550,000Rp; aW)
This contemporary hotel is a couple of minutes’ walk from Nagoya Hill Mall. Its minimalist rooms burst with mod cons and sport lime green and crimson accents.
Pulau Bintan
%0771 / Pop 173,000
Just across the water from Batam, Pulau Bintan markets itself as a high-end playground for well-heeled visitors from East Asia. Top-end resorts – mostly Singaporean-owned – huddle around the Lagoi area on the island’s north coast – in close proximity to Singapore. The east coast around Pantai Trikora is more affordable and laid-back.
Check out www.welcometobintan.com and www.bintan-resorts.com.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Raja Haji Fisabilillah Airport is located to the southeast of Pulau Bintan. There are daily flights to/from Jakarta on Lion Air, Batavia Air and Sriwijaya Air.
Boat
Bintan has two main ports and services to Pulau Batam, Singapore and other islands in the Riau archipelago. Tanjung Pinang, on the western side of the island, is the busiest harbour and the best option for folks heading for Pulau Batam or Pantai Trikora. If you’re bound for the resort area of Lagoi, the Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) ferry terminal is more convenient.
To Pulau Batam
Regular speedboats depart from Tanjung Pinang’s main pier for Telaga Punggur on Batam (55,000Rp, 45 minutes) from 8am to 5.45pm daily, as well as two daily RORO car ferries (14,500Rp, two hours).
To Elsewhere in Indonesia
Daily ferries depart from Tanjung Pinang’s main pier to other islands in the Riau chain, such as Pulau Karimum, Pulau Lingga and Pulau Penuba.
To Malaysia
There are boats to Johor Bahru in Malaysia (340,000Rp, 2½ hours, three daily) from Tanjung Pinang.
To Singapore
Sindo Ferry (www.sindoferry.com.sg) runs from Tanjung Pinang to Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal (one way S$22, two hours) four times daily between 7am and 5pm.
Bintan Resort Ferries (www.brf.com.sg) connects Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal (one way/return from S$45/58, one hour, five to seven daily) with the BBT ferry terminal near the Lagoi resorts area.
Tanjung Pinang
The main port town on the island is a bustling mercantile centre with more ethnic diversity than most Sumatran towns. Few travellers linger long here, but there are a couple of worthwhile attractions if you have time.
Pulau Penyenget (admission 5000Rp), reachable by frequent boats (8000Rp) from Bintan’s main pier, was once the capital of the Riau rajahs. The ruins of the old palace of Rajah Ali and the tombs and graveyards of Rajah Jaafar and Rajah Ali are clearly signposted inland. The most impressive site is the sulphur-coloured mosque, with its many domes and minarets.
The star attraction of the village of Senggarang , just across the harbour from Tanjung Pinang, is an old Chinese temple, now suspended in the roots of a huge banyan tree.
Hotel Panorama (%0771-22920; www.bintanpanorama.com; Jl Haji Agus Salim 12; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp; aiW), a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal, features clean and spacious rooms, with the attached Bamboo Cafe providing karaoke entertainment to Singaporean weekenders.
In the evening there are several food stalls scattered around town serving mie bangka (Hakka-style dumpling soup).
There are plenty of ATMs, mainly on Jl Teuku Umar. English-speaking staff at the tourist information centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0771-31822; Jl Merdeka 5; h8am-5pm) can organise tours and advise about transport.
A taxi to Pantai Trikora costs around 300,000Rp. An ojek to Trikora is around 150,000Rp. Another option is to rent a car (around 380,000Rp per day), which gives you flexibility in exploring the beaches around the island.
Pantai Trikora & Around
Bintan’s east coast is lined with rustic beaches, the main beach being Pantai Trikora. Further north up the coast is the remote and practically deserted Mutiara Beach. The small islands off Pantai Trikora are well worth visiting and there is good snorkelling outside the monsoon season (November to March). Accommodation is laid-back and simple.
4Sleeping & Eating
oMutiara Beach GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0821 7121 1988; www.mutiarabintan.com; Jl Trikora Km55; campsite S$8, r S$50-100; aW)
At this Swiss-run hideaway, gorgeous thatched bungalows with spacious verandahs sit amid unruly vegetation right by a pristine beach; its shallow waters are good for swimming.
Marjoly BeachRESORT$$
(%0813 9370 0732; www.marjolybeach.com; Pantai Trikora Km33; d incl breakfast S$50-60; a)
This laid-back resort consists of spacious thatched bungalows cooled by ocean breezes and a lack of hot water showers. Marjoly Beach is popular with kitesurfers from Singapore, and there’s a good restaurant (mains 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp).
Lagoi
Bintan’s resort area stretches along the northern coastline of the island along Pasir Lagoi. The beaches are sandy and swimmable, the resorts have polished four- and five-star service, and there are water sports and entertainment for all ages. Weekday discounts can be as generous as 50% off.
4Sleeping
Angsana Resort & Spa BintanRESORT$$$
(%0770-693111; www.angsana.com; r incl breakfast from S$390; aWs)
The dressed-down Angsana is best suited to young professionals. The breezy common spaces are decorated in zesty citrus colours, with private rooms sporting a contemporary colonial-era style. The superior rooms are nice but the suites are super.
Banyan Tree BintanRESORT$$$
(%0770-693100; www.banyantree.com; r incl breakfast from S$650; aWs)
The private and privileged Banyan Tree has famed spa facilities and a high-powered retreat deep in the jungle. The hotel shares the 900m-long beach with Angsana Resort & Spa Bintan.
8Getting Around
Most resorts organise shuttle service between the BBT Ferry Terminal and the Lagoi hotels as part of the package price.
Jambi
The centrally located province of Jambi occupies a 53,435-sq-km slice of central Sumatra, stretching from the highest peaks of the Bukit Barisan range in the west to the coastal swamps facing the Strait of Melaka in the east.
The eastern lowlands are mainly rubber and oil-palm plantations, while in the western portion of the province is the Kerinci Seblat National Park, home to Sumatra’s highest peak, Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Sumatran tigers (Jambi’s faunal mascot) and rhinos. With the general improvement of roads throughout the province, it now takes only slightly longer to reach the park from Jambi than from Padang and Jambi town is easily reached from Bandarlampung.
In the province’s fast disappearing forests, the Orang Rimba are an endangered hunter-gatherer tribe.
History
The province of Jambi was the heartland of the ancient kingdom of Malayu, which first rose to prominence in the 7th century. Much of Malayu’s history is closely and confusingly entwined with that of its main regional rival, the Palembang-based kingdom of Sriwijaya.
It is assumed that the temple ruins at Muara Jambi mark the site of Malayu’s former capital, the ancient city of Jambi (known to the Chinese as Chan Pi). The Malayu sent their first delegation to China in 644 and the Chinese scholar I Tsing spent a month in Malayu in 672. When he returned 20 years later he found that Malayu had been conquered by Sriwijaya. The Sriwijayans appear to have remained in control until the sudden collapse of their empire at the beginning of the 11th century.
Following Sriwijaya’s demise, Malayu re-emerged as an independent kingdom and stayed that way until it became a dependency of Java’s Majapahit empire, which ruled from 1278 until 1520. It then came under the sway of the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra before coming under the control of the Dutch East Indian Company in 1616, who maintained a trade monopoly here until 1901 before moving its headquarters to Palembang.
ORANG RIMBA
Jambi’s nomadic hunter-gatherers are known by many names: outsiders refer to the diverse tribes collectively as Kubu, an unflattering term, while they refer to themselves as Orang Rimba (People of the Forest) or Anak Dalam (Children of the Forest). Descended from the first wave of Malays to migrate to Sumatra, they once lived in highly mobile groups throughout Jambi’s lowland forests.
As fixed communities began to dominate the province, the Orang Rimba retained their nomadic lifestyle and animistic beliefs, regarding their neighbours’ adoption of Islam and agriculture as disrespectful towards the forest. Traditionally the Orang Rimba avoided contact with the outsiders, preferring to barter and trade by leaving goods on the fringes of the forest or relying on trusted intermediaries.
In the 1960s, the Indonesian government’s social affairs and religion departments campaigned to assimilate the Orang Rimba into permanent camps and convert them to a monotheistic religion. Meanwhile the jungles were being transformed into rubber and oil-palm plantations during large-scale transmigrasi (government-sponsored scheme to encourage settlers to move from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated ones) from Java and Bali.
Some Orang Rimba assimilated and are now economically marginalised within the plantations, while others live off government funds and then return to the forests. Just over 2000 Orang Rimba retain their traditional lifestyles within the shrinking forest. The groups were given special settlement rights within Bukit Duabelas and Bukit Tigapuluh National Parks, but the protected forests are as vulnerable to illegal logging and poaching as other Sumatran parks.
According to the NGO groups that work with the Orang Rimba, it isn’t a question of if the tribes will lose their jungle traditions but when. In the spirit of practical idealism, the organisation WARSI (www.warsi.or.id) established its alternative educational outreach. Rather than forcing educational institutions on the Orang Rimba, teachers join those that will accept an outsider and teach the children how to read, write and count – the equivalent of knowing how to hunt and forage in the settled communities.
Some of the issues highlighted during a 2015 visit by the Norwegian prime minister to Orang Rimba communities that live in a concession area were decrepit housing provided by the government, a lack of cultivable land in place of the jungle that’s gone, and the inability to eat certain animals because members of Orang Rimba have been encouraged to embrace Islam.
Jambi
%0741 / Pop 516,000
The capital of Jambi province is a busy river port about 155km from the mouth of the Sungai Batang Hari. The large temple complex at Muara Jambi, 26km downstream from Jambi, is the single biggest attraction on Sumatra’s east coast. Jambi also has a pleasantly low-key and friendly vibe, especially around the riverfront food stalls that kick off at dusk around the funky pedestrian bridge.
1Sights & Activities
oMuara JambiRUIN
(admission 5000Rp; h8am-4pm)
This scattering of ruined and partially restored temples is the most important Hindu-Buddhist site in Sumatra. The temples are believed to mark the location of the ancient city of Jambi, capital of the kingdom of Malayu 1000 years ago. Most of the candi (temples) date from the 9th to the 13th centuries, when Jambi’s power was at its peak. You can spend the whole day wandering the forested site, crunching on ancient pottery shards and marvelling at the temple stonework.
Eight temples have been identified so far, each at the centre of its own low-walled compound. Some are accompanied by perwara candi (smaller side temples) and three have been restored to something close to their original form. The site is dotted with numerous menapo (smaller brick mounds), thought to be the ruins of other buildings – possibly dwellings for priests and other high officials.
The restored temple Candi Gumpung, straight ahead from the donation office, has a fiendish makara (demon head) guarding its steps. Excavation work here has yielded some important finds, including a peripih (stone box) containing sheets of gold inscribed with old Javanese characters, dating the temple back to the 9th century. A statue of Prajnyaparamita found here, and other stone carvings, are among the highlights at the small site museum nearby. However, the best artefacts have been taken to Jakarta.
Candi Tinggi, 200m southeast of Candi Gumpung, is the finest of the temples uncovered so far. It dates from the 9th century but is built around another, older temple. A path leads east from Candi Tinggi to Candi Astano, 1.5km away, passing Candi Kembar Batu and lots of menapo along the way.
The temples on the western side of the site are yet to be restored. They remain pretty much as they were found – minus the jungle, which was cleared in the 1980s. The western sites are signposted from Candi Gumpung. First stop, after 900m, is Candi Gedong Satu, followed 150m further on by Candi Gedong Dua. They are independent temples despite what their names may suggest. The path continues west for another 1.5km to Candi Kedaton, the largest of the temples, then a further 900m northwest to Candi Koto Mahligai.
The forested site covers 12 sq km along the northern bank of the Batang Hari. The entrance is through an ornate archway in the village of Muara Jambi and most places of interest are within a few minutes’ walk.
Much of the site still needs excavating and there is some debate whether visitors should be allowed to clamber all over the ruins and the restored temples.
For centuries the site lay abandoned and overgrown in the jungle on the banks of the Batang Hari. It was ‘rediscovered’ in 1920 by a British army expedition sent to explore the region. The dwellings of the ordinary Malayu people have been replaced by contemporary stilt houses of the Muara Jambi village residents. According to Chinese records, Malayu people once lived along the river in stilted houses or in raft huts moored to the bank.
GunturTOUR
(%0813 6833 0882)
Highly knowledgeable, enthusiastic, English-speaking Guntur is the best tour guide you can find in Jambi if you want to go to Muara Jambi. He has an in-depth knowledge of the Kerinci Valley also.
4Sleeping
Guntur or the Padmasana Foundation can arrange homestays in the village adjoining Muara Jambi, which is very worthwhile in terms of cultural immersion and also because it encourages community participation in the conservation of the ruins. Expect to pay around 150,000Rp for a room and board. There are a couple of local eateries by the river.
Hotel DutaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0741-755918; hotelduta@yahoo.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi 65-68; r incl breakfast 500,000-650,000Rp; aW)
The Duta features compact rooms with modern decor and snazzy bathrooms. Flat-screen TVs – with plenty of English-language content – and a wildly ostentatious reception area are other cosmopolitan surprises in sleepy Jambi. It’s a short stroll to alfresco street food treats down on the riverbank.
Novita HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%0741-27208; www.novitahotel.com; Jl Gatot Subroto 44; r from 570,000Rp; aWs)
A central location, friendly staff, pool with swim-up bar and spacious, business-style rooms are all boons at this former Novotel. The restaurant is decent if you go for the local specialities, and our only quibble is some erratic staff behaviour (waking guests up at 8am to ask if they want their laundry done, for example).
Hotel FortunaHOTEL$$
(%0741-23161; Jl Jendral Gatot Subrato; s/d 170,000/350,000Rp; aW)
With modern bathrooms and flat-screen TVs, your travel budget goes a long way at the Fortuna. Rooms are simple and sparsely furnished, but comfortable. The Fortuna is concealed in a quiet retail plaza near the Abadi Hotel, a local landmark, and there are Chinese noodle shops nearby for a quick breakfast. Staff won’t win any congeniality prizes, though.
5Eating
Taman Tanggo RajoINDONESIAN$
(Jl Raden Pamuk; snacks from 10,000Rp)
This is Jambi’s essential evening destination for promenading along the attractive, curved pedestrian bridge across the river that lights up at night. Stalls sell local favourites, such as nanas goreng (fried pineapples), jagung bakar (roasted corn slathered with coconut milk and chilli) and different kinds of sate. Nearby is the Wiltop Trade Centre, a modern shopping mall.
Munri Food CentreINDONESIAN$
(Jl Sultan Agung; mains 15,000-20,000Rp; h5-10pm)
Night-time eats set the night ablaze at this alfresco dining area near the museum. Look for the mie celor and mie pokk, two local noodle dishes.
oPondok KelapaSEAFOOD$$
(Jl Hayam Waruk; meals around 120,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Fish and seafood are the stars of the show at this appealing restaurant in a tranquil garden setting. It’s a great place to try giant grilled prawns, cumi asang manis (squid in a sweet and sour sauce), or local specialities such as pinang patin (spicy fish hotpot with pineapple). Menus have pictures but no prices; check before ordering.
8Information
Jambi’s ATMs cluster around Jl Dr Sutomo.
Culture & Tourism OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0741-445056; Jl H Agus Salim; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Only useful if English-speaking Guntur happens to be in the office.
Padmasana FoundationTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0852 6600 8969, 0852 6609 1459; http://padmasanafoundation.blogspot.com)
The Padmasana Foundation is dedicated to the preservation and excavation of the Muara Jambi ruins and its members work together with the local community in the village next to the ruins. Staff can provide information and arrange both tours of the site and homestays in the village.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(Jl Sultan Thaha 9; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)
Near the port.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The Sultan Thaha Airport (www.sultanthaha-airport.co.id) is 6km east of the centre.
Bus
Bus-ticketing offices occupy two areas of town: Simpang Rimbo, 8km west of town, and Simpang Kawat, 3.5km southwest of town on Jl M Yamin.
There are frequent economy buses to Palembang. Several minibus companies, including Ratu Intan Permata (%0741-20784; Simpang Kawat, Jl M Yamin), offer comfortable door-to-door minibus services to Pekanbaru, Bengkulu, Palembang and Padang. Safa Marwa (%0741-65756; Jl Pattimura 7) runs a similar service to Sungai Penuh in the Kerinci Valley. Buses depart from the companies’ offices and can also pick up passengers around town.
TRANSPORT FROM JAMBI
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Jakarta | Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 15 daily |
| Palembang | Garuda | daily |
| Pulau Batam | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 3 daily |
| Sungai Penuh (Kerinci) | Susi Air | 2-3 weekly |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bengkulu | 250,000 | 10 | several daily |
| Padang | 165,000-190,000 | 11 | 2 daily |
| Palembang | 80,000-170,000 | 7 | several daily |
| Pekanbaru | 260,000 | 12 | daily |
| Sungai Penuh | 175,000 | 8 | 10 daily |
8Getting Around
Taxis from the airport charge around 50,000-70,000Rp. Ojeks and taxis hang around next to shopping malls. An ojek to the bus offices in Simpang Rimbo is around 20,000Rp. For Simpang Kawat, count on 15,000Rp.
There is no public transport to Muara Jambi. You can charter a speedboat (around 500,000Rp) from Jambi’s river pier to the site. You can also hire an ojek (50,000Rp to 60,000Rp).
South Sumatra
The eastern portion of South Sumatra shares a common Malay ancestry and influence with Riau and Jambi provinces from its proximity to the shipping lane of the Strait of Melaka. Rivers define the character of the eastern lowlands, while the western high peaks of the Bukit Barisan form the province’s rugged underbelly. The provincial capital of Palembang was once the central seat of the Buddhist Sriwijaya empire, whose control once reached all the way up the Malay Peninsula.
Despite the province’s illustrious past, it's rather light on attractions, except for Sumatra's most notorious volcano and a couple of remote nature reserves.
Palembang
%0711 / Pop 1.44 million
Sumatra’s second-largest city is a major port that sits astride Sungai Musi, the two halves of the city linked by the giant Jembatan Ampera (Ampera Bridge).
A thousand years ago Palembang was the centre of the highly developed Sriwijaya civilisation that ruled a huge slab of Southeast Asia. It covered most of Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula, southern Thailand and Cambodia, but few relics from the period remain outside the city museum.
The city’s spicy fare is the subject of much debate (positive and negative) in Sumatra, and though Palembang is largely off the traveller trail, you may find yourself passing through en route to or from Jambi and Bandarlampung.
1Sights
Museum Sumatera SelatanMUSEUM
(Jl Sriwijaya 1, Km5.5; admission 2000Rp; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 11am Fri)
Museum Sumatera Selatan houses finds from Sriwijayan times, as well as megalithic carvings from the Pasemah Highlands, including the famous batu gajah (elephant stone) and almost spherical fertility statue with a humongous bosom. Other worthwhile displays include a rich collection of finely woven songkets. There is a magnificent rumah limas (traditional house) behind the museum. The museum is about 5km from the town centre off the road to the airport.
4Sleeping
Zuri ExpressBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0711 710 800; www.zuriexpresshotels.com; Jl Dr Mohammed Isa 988; d incl breakfast from 350,000Rp; aW)
Located just north of Palembang’s market area, Zuri Express fills a colourful and modern building with equally colourful and contemporary accommodation. Rooms are relatively compact, but filled with all mod cons, including designer bathrooms, flat-screen TVs and wi-fi access. Downstairs is a well-priced cafe with good-value Indonesian dishes and espresso.
Red Planet PalembangBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%0711-315222; www.redplanethotels.com; Jl J Sudirman Km3.5; r 342,000Rp; aW)
Sleek, contemporary and minimalist, with plenty of crimson accents and mod cons, this former Tune hotel received a makeover after the Red Planet takeover. The main road location is convenient for overnight stays en route to/from the airport and the on-site cafe provides sustenance.
5Eating
Rumah Makan Pindang Musi RawasINDONESIAN$
(Jl Angkatan 45 18; mains from 30,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
A short ride northwest of the centre, this nondescript-looking restaurant is locally famous for its pindang patin, a spicy, sour, clear soup with patin fish. Other dishes are also sound ambassadors of southern Sumatran cuisine. A numbered system is used for queuing when the place gets busy.
Pagi SoreINDONESIAN$
(Jl Sudirman; meals around 45,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Palembang cuisine not your bag? Then your taste buds will thank you for this reliable Padang standby, where you will be presented with dish upon little dish of spicy, flavourful beef rendang, ayam bakar (spicy chicken), ikan sambal (fish sambal) and other favourites. You only pay for the ones you sample from.
EATING THE PALEMBANG WAY
Love it or hate it, Palembang fare is distinguished by its use of funky durian that sends some folks running. The best-known dishes are ikan brengkes (fish served with a spicy durian-based sauce) and pindang (a spicy, clear fish soup). Another Palembang speciality is pempek, a mixture of sago, fish and seasoning that is formed into balls and deep-fried or grilled. Served with a spicy sauce, pempek is widely available from street stalls and warungs.
Palembang food is normally served with a range of accompaniments. The main one is sambal tempoyak, a combination of fermented durian, sambal terasi (shrimp paste), lime juice and chilli that is mixed up and added to the rice. Sambal buah (fruit-based sambal), made with pineapple or sliced green mangoes, are also popular.
8Getting There & Away
ASultan Badaruddin II airport is 12km north of town.
The Karyajaya Bus Terminal is 12km from the town centre, but most companies have ticket offices on Jl Kol Atmo. For door-to-door minibus services, check out the agents’ offices along Jl Veteran.
AStasuin Kertapati train station is 8km from the city centre on the southern side of the river.
TRANSPORT FROM PALEMBANG
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Bandarlampung | Garuda | daily |
| Bandung | Xpressair | daily |
| Bengkulu | Garuda | daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Nam Air, Sriwijaya Air | 27 daily |
| Jambi | Garuda | daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | AirAsia | daily |
| Medan | Garuda | daily |
| Padang | Citilink | daily |
| Pulau Batam | Citilink, Lion Air | 3 daily |
| Singapore | Silk Air | daily |
| Surabaya | Citilink | daily |
| Yogykarta | Nam Air | daily |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bandarlampung | 240,000 | 10 | 2 daily |
| Bengkulu | 185,000 | 8 | several daily |
| Jambi | 140,000 | 8 | several daily |
| Lahat | 75,000 | 4 | hourly |
TRAIN
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bandarlampung | 90,000-150,000 | 10 | 8pm daily |
| Lahat/Lubukliinggau | 35,000-190,000 | 4/7 | 2 daily |
8Getting Around
Angkot around town cost a standard 3500Rp. They leave from around the huge roundabout at the junction of Jl Sudirman and Jl Merdeka. Any angkot marked ‘Karyajaya’ (5500Rp) will get you to the bus terminal. Any angkot marked ‘Kertapati’ (5500Rp) will get you to the train station. Taxis to the airport cost around 100,000Rp. A taxi from the station to the town centre should cost around 70,000Rp.
Krui
Sweeping slithers of white sand lick the coast north and south of Krui, and the meandering coastline is dotted with surf breaks that draw an increasing number of intrepid board riders.
Most of the action is focused on the village of Tanjung Setia, 10km south of Krui. While surfers still make up most of the tourist traffic, the area’s laconic and laid-back buzz is also perfect if you’re overlanding to Java down Sumatra's south coast. Around midway between Bengkulu and Bandarlampung, it’s a good spot to relax and recharge after one too many long Sumatran bus journeys.
Arrive fully stocked with rupiah – the nearest ATM is an hour’s bus ride away in Liwa.
2Activities
Karang NyinmborSURFING
The star attraction of Tanjung Setia is this world-renowned lefthander, right in front of the village. Depending on weather and tides, other excellent breaks up and the down the coast are also options, all easily reached by motorbike.
Hello MisterADVENTURE SPORTS
(%0852 6928 7811; kruimotorent@gmail.com; Jl Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia)
Stop by and see the wisecracking Albert at Hello Mister for everything from bus transport to Krui or Bandarlampung, jungle tours (half-day per person 70,000Rp), motorbike rental (per day 65,000Rp) and surf lessons (per person 30,000Rp) on more forgiving beach breaks towards Krui village. He can also arrange longer day trips south to the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rumah Radja LosmenBUNGALOW$
(earthcraft40@gmail.com; r 150,000-170,000Rp; aW)
This tranquil place, past Damai Bungalows, is run by friendly Aussie surfer, Murray. Lodgings consist of a couple of comfy bungalows that catch the breeze (with a third on the way). Only breakfast is available but there’s the bonus of a guest kitchen for those who want to surf rather than be tied to a feeding schedule.
oDamai BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 6930 7475; www.damaibungalows.com; Jl Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia; r incl meals 350,000Rp; aW)
Leafy gardens, fan-cooled bungalows with private outdoorsy bathrooms, the best surfer lodge food, and friendly underfoot dogs are defining features of this chilled-out place. There’s excellent service from the Aussie-Indonesian owners, and the bar – with quite possibly Sumatra’s coldest beer – provides front-row views of the iconic Karang Nyimbor left-hander. Damai is often booked by groups, but individual guests are welcome.
Lovina Krui SurfBUNGALOW$$
(%0853 7780 2212; www.lovinakruisurf.com; Jl Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia; r incl meals 350,000Rp; ai)
Divided into various room configurations (with 10 rooms in total, all with private bathrooms), Lovina Krui Surf has three lovely A-frame cottages set back from the beach. Decor and design are a big step up from Tanjung Setia’s traditional focus on simple bungalows. The attached cafe and lounge is cool, cosmopolitan and serves three meals a day.
Family LosmenBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 8043 1486; www.familylosmen.com; Jl Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia; per person incl meals 275,000Rp)
One of Tanjung Setia’s longest-established losmen is still one of the area’s best, with stylish concrete bungalows with private verandas, and a terrific rooftop viewing platform that’s perfect for wave spotting and a few end-of-day Bintangs.
Lani’s RestoINTERNATIONAL$
(Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia; mains from 40,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
The foil to Tanjung Setia’s warungs, this new joint, run by a Hawaiian-American, serves all the comfort food you’ve been craving after a day out on the waves: tacos, burgers and pizza, plus cold beer.
8Getting There & Away
Buses between Bengkulu (100,000Rp, 10 hours, several daily) and Bandarlampung (60,000Rp, four hours, several daily) will stop on request at Tanjung Setia. A private transfer to/from Bandarlampung airport is around 1,000,000Rp. Susi Air have twice-weekly flights to Krui from Bengkulu in their 12-seater Cessna, but they either refuse to take boards or charge US$100 per board (and are very weather-dependent).
WORTH A TRIP
PASEMAH HIGHLANDS
The Pasemah Highlands, tucked away in the Bukit Barisan west of Lahat, are famous for the mysterious megalithic monuments that dot the landscape. The stones have been dated back about 3000 years, but little else is known about them or the civilisation that carved them. While the museums of Palembang and Jakarta now house the pick of the stones, there are still plenty left in situ. The main town of the highlands is Pagaralam, 68km (two hours by bus) southwest of the Trans-Sumatran Hwy town of Lahat.
If you’re looking for a guide, get in touch with Wild Sumatra Adventures in Bengkulu who at the time of writing were looking to start excursions into the Pasemah Highlands. There are a couple of ATMs in the town’s dusty main street, and the nightly market features a lot of food stalls guaranteed to maximise your travel budget.
Every bus travelling along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy calls in at Lahat, nine hours northwest of Bandarlampung and 12 hours southeast of Padang. There are regular buses to Lahat from Palembang (75,000Rp, five hours), and the town is a stop on the train line from Palembang to Lubuklinggau. There are frequent small buses from Pagaralam to Lahat (18,000Rp, two hours) and Bengkulu (30,000Rp, six hours). There are angkot (3000Rp) to the villages near Pagaralam from the town centre’s stasiun taksi (taxi station).
Tinggi HariARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Tinggi Hari, 20km from Lahat, west of the small river town of Pulau Pinang, is a site featuring the best examples of early prehistoric stone sculpture in Indonesia. The Pasemah carvings fall into two distinct styles: the early style dates from around 3000 years ago and features fairly crude figures squatting with hands on knees or arms folded over chests.
The later style, incorporating expressive facial features, dates from about 2000 years ago and is far more elaborate. Examples include carvings of men riding, battling with snakes and struggling with elephants. There are also a couple of tigers – one guarding a representation of a human head between its paws. The natural curve of the rocks was used to create a three-dimensional effect, though all the sculptures are in bas-relief. Sculptures of this style are found throughout the villages around Pagaralam, although some take a bit of seeking out.
Batu BeribuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
In Tegurwangi, Batu Beribu, about 8km from Pagaralam on the road to Tanjung Sakti, is the home of a cluster of four squat statues that sit under a small shelter by a stream. The site guardian will wander over and lead you to some nearby dolmen-style stone tombs. You can still make out a painting of three women and a dragon in one of them.
Batu GajahARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(Elephant Stone)
Batu Gajah sits among the rice paddies by the village of Berlubai, 3km from Pagaralam, along with tombs and statues. There is a remarkable collection of stone carvings among the paddies near Tanjung Aru. Look out for the one of a man fighting a giant serpent.
Gunung DempoVOLCANO
Gunung Dempo is a dormant volcano and the highest (3159m) of the peaks surrounding the Pasemah Highlands that dominate Pagaralam. Allow two full days to complete the climb. A guide is strongly recommended as trails can be difficult to find. The lower slopes are used as a tea-growing area, and there are angkot from Pagaralam to the tea factory.
Hotel MirasaHOTEL$
(%0730-621266; Jl Muhammad Nuh 80; d 100,000-240,000Rp)
There is a range of rather musty rooms to choose from and the manager can organise transport to the sites or guides to climb Gunung Dempo. The hotel is on the edge of town, about 2km from the bus terminal.
Lampung
At the very tip of this bow-shaped landmass is Sumatra’s southernmost province, which was not given provincial status by Jakarta until 1964. Although the Lampungese have had a long history as a distinct culture, Jakarta’s gravitational force has been altering Lampung’s independent streak – largely in the form of the transmigrasi policies, designed to off-load excess population and turn a profit in the wilds of Sumatra.
Outside the provincial capital of Bandarlampung, the province’s robust coffee plantations dominate the economy and the unclaimed forests, closely followed by timber, pepper, rubber and the ever-increasing territory of oil-palm plantations.
Today many Jakarta weekenders hop over to tour the Krakatau volcano or visit the elephants of Way Kambas National Park. The rugged western seaboard is ostensibly protected as the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.
History
Long before Jakarta became the helm of this island chain, there’s evidence that Lampung was part of the Palembang-based Sriwijayan empire until the 11th century, when the Jambi-based Malayu kingdom became the dominant regional power.
Megalithic remains at Pugungraharjo, on the plains to the east of Bandarlampung, are thought to date back more than 1000 years and point to a combination of Hindu and Buddhist influences. The site is believed to have been occupied until the 16th century.
Lampung has long been famous for its prized pepper crop, which attracted the West Javanese sultanate of Banten to the area at the beginning of the 16th century and the Dutch East India Company in the late 17th century.
The Dutch finally took control of Lampung in 1856 and launched the first of the transmigrasi schemes that sought to ease the chronic overcrowding in Java and Bali.
Bandarlampung
%0721 / Pop 873,000
Perched on the hills overlooking Teluk Lampung, Bandarlampung is the region’s largest city and its administrative capital. Most traveller facilties are in Tanjungkarang, including the train station and the bulk of the hotels. Krakatau and the Way Kambas National Park are the main spots to check out in the area when passing through en route to or from Java.
1Sights
Krakatau MonumentMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran)
The Krakatau monument is a lasting memorial to the force of the 1883 eruption and resulting tidal wave. Almost half of the 36,000 victims died in the 40m-high tidal wave that funnelled up Teluk Lampung and devastated Telukbetung. The huge steel maritime buoy that comprises the monument was washed out of Teluk Lampung and deposited on this hillside.
Lampung Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl Teuku Umar; admission 4000Rp; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
This museum, 5km north of central Tanjungkarang, is a bit of a mixed bag, with everything from neolithic relics to stuffed animals. The few articles from the Sriwajayan empire era are worth a peek. To reach the museum, catch a grey angkot (3500Rp).
4Sleeping
oPOP! Hotel Tanjung KarangDESIGN HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-241742; www.pophotels.com; Jl W Monginsidi 56; r 440,000Rp; aiW)
POP! is as subtle as the giant exclamation mark decorating the side of the building. The decor is Google meets pop art, the staff are young and helpful and the strange bathroom cubicles feature powerful showers. Our only quibbles are that the windows don’t open and breakfast is a bit of a free-for-all.
Grand Citihub Hotel @KartiniBUSINESS HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-240420; www.citihubhotels.com; Jl Kartini 41; r from 275,000Rp; aW)
This brand new, central hotel is a welcome addition to Bandarlampung’s rather underwhelming selection. Rooms are on the snug side, but they scream ‘contemporary,’ with giant cityscapes splashed across the walls and powerful showers. Good coffee shop on-site, too.
Emersia Hotel & ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-258258; www.emersiahotel.com; Jl W Monginsidi 70; r 695,000-945,000Rp, ste 1,800,000-3,150,000Rp; aWs)
If you’re completing your Sumatran odyssey and wish to wash the dust of the island off your feet, one of Bandarlampung’s most luxurious hotels may be just the place for it. Its elevated location means that the best rooms and suites feature sea views. There’s a spa for pampering and a decent restaurant to boot.
5Eating
The market stalls ( GOOGLE MAP ) around the Bambu Kuning Plaza ( GOOGLE MAP ) offer a wide range of snacks. Food stands punctuate Jl Raden Intan after dark.
Garuda RestaurantINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kartini 31; meals 40,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Come here for classic Padang dishes: choose from the likes of udang sambal (prawns in spicy sauce), wilted sweet potato leaves, fish curry and beef rendang. Staff don't speak much English but they’re super helpful if you just point at what you’d like.
Kopi OeyINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kopioey.com; Jl W Monginsidi 56; meals 70,000-100,000Rp)
With its birdcage lights, outdoor terrace and Shanghai glamour posters, this offshoot of the Jakarta-based empire conjures an old-world vibe. The menu runs the gamut from fusion (spicy tuna spaghetti) to Javanese classics (sweet-and-spicy lamb tongseng) and capcay rice. Some of the drinks (iced grass jelly, hot turmeric) border on eclectic.
El’s CoffeeCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.elscoffee.com; Jl Kartini 41; meals around 70,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
This popular coffee shop chain satisfies your caffeine cravings with a wide array of cappuccinos, lattes and frappuccinos (including the downright peculiar popcorn and avocado versions). If you’re hungry, there’s tiramisu, macha cake and Italian-Indonesian fusion dishes.
7Shopping
Lampung produces weavings known as ship cloths (most feature ships), which use rich reds and blues to create primitive-looking geometric designs. Another type is kain tapis, a ceremonial cloth elaborately embroidered with gold thread.
Mulya Sari ArtshopHANDICRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Thamrin 85; h8am-5pm)
A good collection of both ship cloths and kain tapis can be found here.
8Information
ATMs dot central Bandarlampung; BNI Bank machines dispense up to 2,000,000Rp.
Arie Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-474675; www.arietour.com; Jl W Monginsidi 143; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
A helpful travel agent located outside the city centre. Trips taking in Gunung Krakatau and Way Kambas National Park can be booked here.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Raden Inten II Airport (%0721-769 7114) is 24km north of the city.
Bus
There are two bus terminals in Bandarlampung. Rajabasa bus terminal is 10km north of town and serves long-distance destinations. Panjang bus terminal is 6km southeast of town along the Lampung Bay road and serves local and provincial destinations.
Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-780 6335) bus-boat combination tickets (184,000Rp, eight to 10 hours) are the most convenient option for heading to Jakarta. Damri buses leave from outside Bandarlampung’s train station at 9am, 10am, 8pm and 9pm, shuttling passengers to the Bakahueni pier, and then picking them up at Java’s Merak pier for the final transfer to Jakarta’s train station.
Train
The train station is in the town centre at the northern mouth of Jl Raden Intan.
TRANSPORT FROM BANDARLAMPUNG
AIR
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
| Jakarta | Aviastar, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 16 daily |
| Palembang | Garuda | daily |
| Pulau Batam | Garuda | daily |
| Yogykarta | Aviastar | daily |
BUS
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bengkulu | 150,000 | 12 | several daily |
| Bukittinggi | 250,000-360,000 | 22 | daily |
| Jakarta | 184,000-360,000 | 8-10 | several daily |
| Krui | 60,000 | 4-5 | several daily |
| Palembang | 240,000 | 10 | 2 daily |
TRAIN
| Destination | Fare (Rp) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Lahat/Lubklinggau | 35,000-240,000 | 14/17 | 2 daily |
| Palembang | 90,000-150,000 | 8 | daily at 4.30am |
8Getting Around
For the airport, taxis charge around 140,000Rp for the ride to/from town. All angkot pass through the basement of the Bandar Lampung Plaza ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Jl Raden Intan and the standard fare around town is 3500Rp. To reach the Rajabasa bus terminal, take a green angkot (4500Rp). To reach the Panjang bus terminal, take a green angkot to Sukaraja and then transfer to a red angkot (4500Rp). Taxis and ojeks are scarce.
Way Kambas National Park
This national park is one of the oldest reserves in Indonesia. It occupies 1300 sq km of coastal lowland forest around Sungai Way Kambas on the east coast of Lampung. What little remains of the heavily logged forests is home to endangered species of elephants, rhinos and tigers.
It is believed that around 180 wild Sumatran elephants (Elephas maximus sumatrensis) live in the park, but reliable estimates are uncertain and poaching and development pressures are constant. The Sumatran elephant is a subspecies of the Asian elephant and is found only in Sumatra and Kalimantan. Another rare but endemic creature in Way Kambas is the Sumatran rhino, the only two-horned rhino of the Asian species. Its hide is red in colour with a hairy coat.
The area around Way Kanan, a subdistrict of the park, is frequently visited by birdwatchers, with the white-winged duck and Storm’s stork being particularly sought-after by twitchers.
Also in the park is the Sumatra Rhino Sanctuary, where five rhinos formerly held in captivity are introduced to wild surroundings in the hope of successful breeding, with each assigned a team of keepers to look after their health and nutritional needs.
The Sumatran rhino is a solitary animal and its habitat in the wild is so fractured that conservationists fear the species will die out without intervention. Breeding centres for rhinos are a controversial component of species-protection campaigns as they are expensive to maintain and have reported few successful births. For more information, visit the website of the International Rhino Foundation (www.rhinos-irf.org), one of the lead organisations involved with the centre and antipoaching patrols in the park. It's estimated that less than 20 wild Sumatran rhinos still survive within the park.
For the average visitor not engaged in wildlife conservation, a visit to the park is a nice break from the concrete confines of Jakarta, but it’s not a true wild safari. Most visitors are led through the forest on elephants or by canoes on the Sungai Way Kanan and surrounding waterways. The most commonly spotted animals on the tour include primates and birds. Herds of elephants are seen here from time to time but sightings of the Sumatran tiger are extremely rare.
A day trip to Way Kambas costs around US$170 per person for a minimum of two people and can be arranged through tour operators in Jakarta. Bandarlampung-based tour agents include Arie Tour & Travel.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tourist facilities within the park are limited. About 13km from the entrance to the park, on the main road, is Way Kanan, where there is a collection of simple guesthouses on the banks of Sungai Way Kanan. Food stalls nearby cater to daytrippers and close after dark, so you’ll need to bring food if you’re staying the night.
Satwa Elephant EcolodgeCOTTAGE$$
(%0812 399 5212; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; Jl Taman Nasional Way Kambas; s/d incl breakfast US$55/60; aW)
This delightful ecolodge is located 500m from the park entrance. Four spacious cottages are scattered through the lodge’s leafy orchard of tropical fruit trees, and activities include river trips and mountain-bike rides through the forest. The lodge is also popular with keen birdwatchers. Four-day packages departing Jakarta – including all meals and transport – are US$595 per person.
8Getting There & Away
The entrance to Way Kambas is 110km from Bandarlampung. There are buses from Bandarlampung’s Rajabasa bus terminal to Jepara (38,000Rp, 2½ hours). They pass the signposted entrance road to Way Kambas in the village of Rajabasalama, 10km north of Jepara. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Metro (20,000Rp, one hour) and then another to Rajabasalama (22,000Rp, 1½ hours). From the beginning of the entrance road you can hire a motorcycle to take you to and from the park entrance.
Gunung Krakatau
Krakatau may have come closer to destroying the planet than any other volcano in recent history, when it erupted in 1883. Tens of thousands were killed either by the resulting tidal wave or by the pyroclastic flows that crossed 40km of ocean to incinerate Sumatran coastal villages. Afterwards all that was left was a smouldering caldera where a cluster of uninhabited islands had once been. Perhaps peace had come, thought local villagers. But Krakatau, like all scrappy villains, re-awoke in 1927 and resulting eruptions created a new volcanic cone, since christened Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau). It’s estimated that Anak Krakatau is growing by around 5m every year.
Tours to the island launch from West Java or from Kalianda on the Sumatran coast. Organised day trips with Arie Tour & Travel in Bandarlampung cost around US$300 per person (based on two people). Krakatau Tours (www.krakatau-tour.com) runs day tours from Jakarta (6,000,000Rp for three people), complete with English-speaking guide and powerful speedboat.
When Krakatau is rumbling, ascents are forbidden, but tour companies may not make you aware of this fact, and you’ll end up paying for a very expensive boat trip. Try to check independently whether Krakatau is off-limits.
You can also join up with weekenders chartering boats from the fishing village of Canti, located outside of Kalianda, a coastal town south of Bandarlampung. Canti is reachable by frequent local buses from Bandarlampung’s Rajabasa bus terminal (35,000Rp, 1½ hours). Charters usually cost around 300,000Rp per person, but with a minimum of five people. There are regular angkot from Kalianda to Canti (10,000Rp), and an ojek from Kalianda to Canti is around 30,000Rp.
Bakauheni
Bakauheni is the major ferry terminal between Java and southern Sumatra. The journey between the two islands sounds like a snap until you factor in land transport between the ferry terminals and the major towns on either side. Bakauheni is 90km from Bandarlampung, a bus journey of two or three hours. In Java, the bus transfer from the port of Merak to Jakarta is another two-hour journey. Damri runs bus-boat-bus combinations linking Sumatra and Java.
Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park
At the southern tip of Sumatra, this national park comprises one of the island’s last stands of lowland forests. For this reason the World Wildlife Fund has ranked it as one of the planet’s most biologically outstanding habitats and is working to conserve the park’s remaining Sumatran rhinos and tigers; it is also identified as the most important forest area for tiger conservation in the world. The park is also famous for many endemic bird species that prefer foothill climates, and several species of sea turtle that nest along the park’s coastal zone.
Of the 356,000 hectares originally designated as protected, less than 324,000 hectares remain untouched. The usual suspects are responsible: illegal logging, illegal encroachment of coffee, pepper and other plantations, and poachers.
Tourist infrastructure in the park is very limited and most people visit on organised tours; it may be possible to organise one from Krui. The main access point into the park is through the town of Kota Agung, 80km west of Bandarlampung.
Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan (%0722-21095; Jl Raya Terbaya; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) was inexplicably closed when we visited but does, in theory, sell permits into the park and can arrange guides and trekking information. However, we have also been told of incidents where visitors were not allowed access to the park at all and even surfers wishing to ride the coastal waters adjacent to the park were turned back by a boatload of serious-looking men with guns.
Kota Agung has several basic hotels.There are frequent buses from Bandarlampung to Kota Agung (16,000Rp).