“Madam, I have been looking for a person who disliked gravy my entire life: let us swear to eternal friendship.”
—Sydney Smith
“A thankful heart is not only the greatest virtue, but the parent of all other virtues.”
—Cicero
We have been conditioned to think of Thanksgiving as the quintessential American holiday, but the fact is that celebrations of thanksgiving—as a repast or ceremony to honor the bountiful harvest—date back to ancient times. The Chinese partook of a three-day-long lunar feast at the time of the harvest moon; the Greeks and Romans created gods, goddesses, and myths to explain yearly growing cycles; over 3,000 years ago the ancient Hebrews celebrated the autumn festival of Succot to thank God for making plants; and the Egyptians held an annual parade and banquet in worship of Min, their god of vegetation and fertility.
While the turkey is deservedly the great symbol of our American Thanksgiving, my greatest culinary stimulus continues to stem from nature’s miracle gift of vegetation that yields an odyssey of inspirational side dishes.
Back in the 1860s, a women’s magazine editor by the name of Sarah Josepha Hale led a successful crusade to convince Abraham Lincoln to declare Thanksgiving an annual national holiday. Ms. Hale also believed that Thanksgiving should be treated as a special time for women to display their culinary prowess. In this post-feminist age, such an anachronistic concept is one that I simply adore and do, in fact, practice. The one problem is that with an overflowing harvest palette—broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, celeriac, fennel, parsnips, pumpkins, squash, turnips, and assorted other tubers—I can confine neither all my thanks nor prowess to one grand meal on Thankgiving day! Thus this chapter contains recipes aplenty for the accoutrements of Thanksgiving indulgence (gravy excepted), to inspire the holiday menu as well as cooking during the entire month of November and even through the whole frigid stretch of winter right up to the first signs of new spring crops. If this seems a mite zealous, keep in mind that the austere Pilgrims had a first Thanksgiving that spanned nearly an entire week. Truly there always has been and, hopefully, always will be a surfeit for which to be extremely thankful.
Nantucket friends Jerry Clare and John Mancarella—two of my best and most diehard summer beach buddies—sadly abandoned me a few seasons back in order to revamp a bed-and-breakfast inn and restaurant in Camden, Maine. While I miss their sunny companionship, I have since coveted my brief stays at the charming and cozy Belmont as it is resplendent with many of my favorite colors and chintz fabrics. The team served their first Thanksgiving dinner at the inn’s restaurant this past November, and the following is John’s highly original recipe for an ambrosial turkey dressing.
1 loaf day old Sambuca Corn Bread (see recipe)
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 large onion, minced
4 large ribs celery, cut into ¼-inch slices
1½ pounds sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
1½ cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
2 tablespoons Sambuca liqueur
½ cup squash or pumpkin seeds, toasted and ground in a blender or food processor
1½ tablespoons ground coriander
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg, slightly beaten
1. The day before you plan to make the dressing, crumble the Sambuca Corn Bread into small pieces and let it dry in the open air overnight.
2. The next day melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and celery and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and combine with the corn bread crumbs.
3. Add the sausage to the same skillet and cook over medium-high heat, crumbling into small pieces with the back of a wooden spoon, until the meat loses its pink color and begins to brown, about 15 minutes. Add to the stuffing mix. Add the chicken broth and Sambuca to the skillet and heat, scraping up any brown bits clinging to the bottom, until slightly reduced. Add the liquid to the stuffing mixture and stir well to combine.
4. Stir in the ground squash seeds and season with the coriander, salt, and pepper. Bind the dressing together with the beaten egg.
5. If using the stuffing for a turkey, store it in the refrigerator until the turkey is ready to be roasted. If baking it as a side dish, place it in a buttered casserole and bake at 350°F until browned and crisp, about 45 minutes.
Makes enough to stuff a 16 to 20 pound turkey or 12 to 15 side-dish servings
One of my great culinary thrills is in inventing new stuffing combinations. The inspiration for this recipe comes from the reading of recipes for Southern ways with greens overlapping with a vacation through linguiça land, better known as the Portuguese section of Fall River, Massachusetts. The end result is like caldo verde translated from soup to stuffing. While the recipe makes an ample amount for stuffing a big Thanksgiving bird, I enjoy baking smaller amounts of it in a casserole as a starchy accompaniment to sautéed scallops, broiled lobster, or baked cod. Stuffing freezes well if packed securely in sturdy plastic bags. It will keep up to three months and bring enjoyment long after the last of the turkey carcass has disappeared.
1 pound kale, tough center ribs removed, torn into 1-inch pieces
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 medium bulb fennel, coarsely chopped
2 medium-size red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1½ pounds Pepperidge Farm corn-bread stuffing crumbs
2 pounds linguiça sausage, cut on a diagonal into ¼-inch slices
1 can (16½ ounces) creamed corn
1½ cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
½ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
2½ cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the kale. Blanch until the kale is cooked and tender, about 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool slightly. Squeeze out as much excess water as possible by wringing it with your hands. Set aside.
2. Melt ¾ cup of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion, fennel, red peppers, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and toss with the stuffing crumbs.
3. In the same skillet sauté the linguiça in batches, stirring frequently, until browned all over. Add to the stuffing along with any accumulated drippings.
4. Add the creamed corn, Cheddar, and pine nuts and stir to combine. Heat the remaining ¼ cup butter with the chicken broth in a saucepan just until the butter is melted. Pour over the stuffing and stir to moisten completely. (If the stuffing seems too dry, you may have to add a little more chicken broth and melted butter, this will depend on the fattiness and moisture content of the linguiça.) Season the stuffing with the oregano and salt and pepper to taste.
5. If using the stuffing for a turkey, store it in the refrigerator until the turkey is ready to be roasted. If baking it as a side dish, place the desired amount in a buttered casserole and bake at 350°F for 35 to 40 minutes.
Makes enough to stuff a 22 to 24 pound turkey or 15 to 20 side-dish servings
A simple and elegant way to prepare this often misunderstood root vegetable.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1½ pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into slender 3 × ½-inch sticks
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
In a large skillet melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the parsnip sticks and sauté until lightly browned and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and toss to coat, then season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Serve at once.
Makes 4 to 6 Servings
The names for this foreboding root vegetable tend to be fickle—celeriac, celery root, celery knobs—but my love for its intense flavor is unequivocal. The technique of oven roasting places this recipe in the category of kitchen aromas to make you swoon.
2 medium knobs celeriac (celery root), peeled and cut into coarse 1-inch chunks
8 shallots, peeled
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ cup dry white vermouth
¼ cup heavy or whipping cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
2. Toss the celeriac, shallots, and the melted butter together in a roasting pan. Sprinkle the vermouth over all. Roast the vegetables in the oven, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 1 hour.
3. Place the vegetables and any pan juices in a food processor, add the cream, and process until very smooth. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve at once or reheat later in the top of a double boiler or in a microwave oven.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
One of the most popular recipes in my Nantucket Open House cookbook was a simple but colorful and flavorful mélange called Oil-Roasted Farm Vegetables. While working on this book, I woke up in the middle of one night with the idea of applying the concept to root vegetables. I set to work the very next day and I’m happy to report that my middle-of-the-night culinary inspirations are quite trustworthy.
4 medium parsnips, peeled and cut on a diagonal into ½-inch slices
1 medium rutabaga, peeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks
1 knob celeriac (celery root), peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks
2 large red potatoes, scrubbed and sliced ½ inch thick
8 ounces baby carrots, peeled and trimmed
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and cut crosswise into ¼-inch thick slices
10 shallots, peeled
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
⅔ cup dry white vermouth
Kosher (coarse) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
2. Toss all the vegetables together in a large roasting pan. Drizzle with the melted butter and vermouth; then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and cook 30 minutes.
3. Uncover the vegetables and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, 45 to 60 minutes more. Serve at once.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
A fennel aficionado, I find this is my very favorite way to prepare the vegetable. I’ve even thought of eating this particular dish for breakfast in place of hot cereal! The more conventional may find it better suited to accompanying poultry, game, and pork. The rice in the recipe adds necessary body to the fennel without diluting its flavor in the way that a potato thickener would.
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
10 cups minced fennel bulb (about 3 fennel bulbs)
2 leeks (white and light green parts), trimmed, rinsed well, and minced
½ cup dry white wine
1½ cups cooked Arborio or long-grain rice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Feathery fennel tops for garnish
1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and add the fennel and leeks, stirring to coat with the butter. Sauté 5 minutes, add the wine, and cover the surface of the fennel with a sheet of waxed paper. Reduce the heat slightly and sweat the vegetables until very tender, about 30 minutes.
2. Transfer the vegetables to a food processor, add the rice, and process until very smooth. For the silkiest texture, pass the purée through a food mill to remove any stringy fibers. Season the purée with salt and pepper to taste. Reheat in the top of a double boiler over simmering water before serving. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fennel top if desired.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Another enticing way to cook this anise-flavored vegetable based on an Italian recipe from the beautiful, pink-cast city of Parma.
5 fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered
⅓ cup olive oil
2 cups dry white wine
4 sweet Italian sausages, casings removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons minced feathery fennel tops
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1. Combine the fennel with ⅓ cup olive oil and the wine in a large, deep skillet. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover the pan and braise the fennel until tender, about 40 minutes.
2. While the fennel is cooking, brown the sausage in a small skillet over medium-high heat, crumbling it into small pieces with the back of a wooden spoon. When the sausage is cooked through and crispy, remove it from the heat.
3. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
4. Remove the fennel from the skillet with a slotted spoon and arrange in a 10 to 12-inch round or oval gratin dish. Boil the liquid remaining in the skillet until reduced to ⅓ cup. Season with salt and pepper and pour over the fennel. Scatter the sausage over the fennel, then top with the Parmesan. Sprinkle with the fennel tops and drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil.
5. Bake until browned and bubbling, 20 minutes. Serve hot.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Good creamed spinach is one of the most soothing dishes ever invented. To capture the delicate essence of spinach, the time-consuming labor of washing, stemming, sorting, and chopping fresh leaves is a must.
2 pounds fresh spinach, rinsed well and stemmed
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and minced
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
2 tablespoons heavy or whipping cream
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1. Place the spinach leaves in a steamer and cook over simmering water just until wilted, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain well, cool slightly, and chop.
2. Melt the butter in a medium-size heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the scallions, and sauté for 5 minutes. Break the cream cheese into small pieces, add it to the skillet, and stir until melted and smooth. Add the spinach to the skillet, and stir well to combine. Stir in the cream and lemon juice, then season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cook just until heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
These are a tangy, golden-hued twist on the classic version of pale white creamed onions. The standard cream sauce is laced with both grainy and strong Dijon mustards and the dish is topped with a whisper of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and warm sprinkling of russet-colored paprika.
2 pounds small white onions, peeled
3 cups water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons medium-dry or cream Sherry
1 tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon smooth Dijon mustard
Pinch grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
3 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika
1. Place the onions in a medium-size saucepan, cover with the water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the onions are just barely tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
2. Prepare the cream sauce: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in first the reserved cooking liquid, then the milk and Sherry to make a smooth sauce. Swirl in both mustards and season with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Simmer stirring occasionally, over low heat to allow the flavors to blend, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the chives and remove from the heat.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a gratin dish large enough to hold the onions in a single layer.
4. Combine the mustard cream sauce with the onions and transfer to the prepared dish. Sprinkle the top with the Parmesan and paprika. (The dish may be prepared up to this point 2 days in advance and refrigerated until baking time. Bring the dish to room temperature prior to baking.)
5. Bake the creamed onions until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
I love the plump shape of baby carrots and think that they taste like winter paradise when glazed with this buttery, brown mustard sauce.
1 pound baby carrots, trimmed and peeled
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2½ tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
1. Blanch, steam, or microwave the carrots until crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Melt the butter in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and mustard to make a smooth sauce. Add the cooked carrots to the skillet and toss to coat with the sauce. Cook 1 minute more, then serve at once.
Makes 6 servings
It’s a shame that the staple bag of carrots is often overlooked among the more fashionable produce at the supermarket. Carrots and oranges have both a color and flavor affinity. So, the Grand Marnier in this recipe guarantees a boost in reputation for the friendly common carrot. Serve with a crispy roasted chicken or a succulent cut of pork.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut on a sharp diagonal into ⅓-inch-thick slices
3 tablespoons orange marmalade
⅓ cup Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the carrots and toss to coat with the butter. Stir in the marmalade and heat until melted. Add the Grand Marnier and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer covered 5 minutes.
2. Uncover the carrots and continue to cook until tender and the liquid has been reduced to a glaze, 4 to 5 minutes more. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve at once.
Makes 6 servings
I’ve always thought of pearly and pale green Belgian endive as epitomizing aristocracy in a vegetable. While it most often appears as a crisp spoke in a variety of tossed salads, I am quite fond of it in its most extravagant role as a wonderfully warm and silky oven-braised vegetable. The subtle bitter flavor of endive makes it both a delicious accompaniment and contrast to the richness of a rib roast or a crispy duckling.
12 Belgian endives
3 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons crumbled dried tarragon
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Melt the butter in an ovenproof casserole just large enough to hold the endives in a single layer over medium heat. Arrange the endives in the casserole and brown in the butter, turning with tongs, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with the sugar and cook a few minutes more until lightly caramelized. Remove from the heat.
3. Pour the lemon juice over the endives and sprinkle with the tarragon, salt, and white pepper. Cover the casserole tightly with a lid or piece of aluminum foil and bake in the oven until the endives are very soft and tender, about 1 hour. Serve 2 whole endives per person.
Makes 6 servings
Italian ingenuity with simple vegetables never ceases to amaze me. This recipe adaptation will make you understand why vegetables are accorded the status of a separate course in many Italian restaurants.
2 large heads broccoli, trimmed and broken into large florets
6 tablespoons fruity olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled
½ cup lightly toasted, finely chopped hazelnuts
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
⅓ pound sliced pancetta or bacon, cooked until crisp and coarsely crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Blanch the broccoli in boiling salted water or steam in a vegetable steamer just until crisp-tender. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for 5 minutes to infuse the oil with the flavor. Remove and discard the garlic cloves.
3. Add the broccoli to the skillet and toss to coat with the hot oil. Stir in the hazelnuts, lemon zest, and crumbled pancetta, then season with salt and pepper. Serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
When summer’s vegetables dwindle, keep in mind that cooked cabbage makes a welcome addition to the autumn and winter repertoire. Red cabbage, in particular, always adds a deep burst of color to the often muted shades of cold-weather cooking. This preparation pairs beautifully with pork and game dishes.
4 slices bacon
1 tablespoon golden mustard seeds
1 medium onion, cut into crescent slivers
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 medium head red cabbage, cored and thinly shredded
½ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Cook the bacon in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat until crisp. Remove the bacon to drain on paper towels.
2. Add the mustard seeds to the bacon fat in the skillet. As soon as you begin to hear them pop, add the onion and apples to the pan. Sauté 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the brown sugar and vinegar and cook a minute or so to dissolve the sugar.
3. Add the cabbage to the skillet and stir to combine with the onion-apple mixture. Stir in the wine and the mustard. Simmer uncovered over medium heat, stirring occasionally, just until the cabbage is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the bacon to the cabbage, season to taste with salt and pepper, then serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
In Italy, radicchio frequently is eaten cooked or grilled rather than raw in salads. Since radicchio’s popularity has soared in North America, it has become almost as ubiquitous in its raw state as iceberg lettuce once was. I personally find this recipe a delicious antidote to the use and abuse of this beautiful imported chicory.
4 medium heads radicchio
⅓ to ½ cup fruity olive oil
2 ounces pancetta, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh rosemary
Kosher (coarse) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Discard any wilted outer leaves from the radicchio. Cut each head into 4 to 6 wedges and arrange snugly in an ovenproof dish. Drizzle evenly with the olive oil and scatter the pancetta and rosemary over the top. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Place the radicchio 7 to 8 inches from the heat. Broil until the radicchio is tender when pierced with a fork in the center and the edges of the leaves are curled and slightly charred, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve as a vegetable, hot, warm, or at room temperature.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
I am a Brussels sprouts fiend. What asparagus is to springtime and vibrant vine-ripened tomatoes to summer, Brussels sprouts are to me in the winter months. They are the original baby vegetable and often remind me more of furled peony blossoms than miniature cabbages. The vegetable’s variant hues of green and grace of structure make it an elegant accompaniment. This particular smoky and sweet preparation goes well with roasts of drama such as a standing rib, crown roast of pork, or the Thanksgiving turkey.
24 whole chestnuts, peeled (see box)
2 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
6 slices bacon, cut into small dice
1½ pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut with an × on the bottom
2½ tablespoons maple syrup
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Steam the Brussels sprouts in a vegetable steamer over boiling water just until crisp-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool slightly.
2. Place the chestnuts and chicken broth in a small saucepan and simmer over medium heat until the chestnuts are tender, about 25 minutes.
3. In the meantime, sauté the bacon in a medium-size skillet until crisp. Remove and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat remaining in the skillet.
4. Cut the Brussels sprouts lengthwise in half and place in the skillet. Add the chestnuts to the skillet along with 3 tablespoons of the cooking broth, then stir in the maple syrup. Heat over medium high heat, stirring frequently, until the liquid is reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked bacon and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Those who know my predilection for any color or flavor in the pink family will not be surprised to learn that beets are one of my very favorite vegetables. I particularly love the warm hue and musky sherry essence this recipe brings to plates of hearty coldweather food.
2 bunches medium-large beets, greens trimmed
12 large shallots, peeled
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup dry red wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2. Peel the beets and cut each one into 8 chunks or wedges. Mix the beets and shallots together in a 12 × 9-inch baking dish. Toss with the olive oil and red wine and season with salt and pepper. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil and bake until the beets are just barely tender, 1 to 1¼ hours.
3. Stir in the brown sugar and sherry vinegar. Bake uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and glazed with the sauce, 15 to 20 minutes more. Serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
This spectacular yet simple vegetable torte takes its inspiration from the classic French preparation pommes Anna—a pie of sliced potatoes lavished in butter and promiscuously named after a cocotte of the Napoleonic era. My substitution of rutabagas imparts a lovely autumnal hue. While the dish is traditionally made by brushing each layer of thinly sliced vegetables with clarified butter, I am partial to using either rendered duck fat or bacon drippings. As the moment of triumph in this recipe hinges on a perfect unmolding, it is essential to begin with a proper baking dish—either a 12-inch cast-iron or copper ovenproof skillet or, in a pinch, a similarly sized springform pan or deep cake pan. Rutabagas Anna are a perfect accompaniment to roasted game birds or pork.
2 medium rutabagas (2½ to 3 pounds total), peeled, cut in half, and then into thin ⅛-inch slices
1 cup rendered duck fat, bacon fat, or clarified butter (see box)
2 tablespoons caraway seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Keep the duck fat, bacon fat, or clarified butter warm in small saucepan over low heat. Using a pastry brush, coat a 12-inch skillet or baking pan with a generous amount of the fat. Make a layer of the rutabagas by slightly overlapping the slices in concentric circles. You want to put some thought into the first layer for, once unmolded, it’s the one you will see.
3. Brush the layer of rutabagas lightly with the fat and sprinkle lightly with a few caraway seeds, salt, and pepper. Continue the process of layering the rutabaga slices, brushing with fat, and seasoning. Press down on the rutabagas occasionally to ensure a compact cake and to make room for all the layers. When the layering has been completed, cover the baking dish tightly with a double thickness of aluminum foil. Place an ovenproof weight, such as a slightly smaller frying pan, on top of the rutabagas and press down.
4. Bake the rutabagas with the weight 30 minutes. Remove the weight, uncover the rutabagas, and bake until the rutabagas are crisp and brown on top and tender throughout, about 30 minutes more.
5. Using pot holders and being careful not to burn yourself, invert the pan onto a warm large serving plate. Blot up any excess fat with paper towels. Present the rutabagas Anna whole at the table and serve by slicing into pie-shaped wedges.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
From time to time, I get inexplicable cauliflower cravings. When I can restrain myself from devouring the whole head raw, this is a favorite hot preparation.
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pancetta or bacon, cut into small dice
1 large cauliflower, trimmed and cut into large florets
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 ripe plum tomatoes, cut into eighths
⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup chicken broth, preferably homemade
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the cauliflower and sauté, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
2. Add the garlic and tomatoes to the skillet and cook 2 minutes more. Stir in the vinegar, broth, sugar, and anchovy paste. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the cauliflower is crisp-tender, 5 minutes.
3. Uncover, increase the heat again, and cook until the liquid is reduced to a glaze. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley and serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
After several attempts at trying to do something graceful and personally riveting with acorn squash, using typical sweet flavor accents, I concluded that it was an unruly vegetable. In a final moment of vexation, I went to the market and selected one of every tumorous-looking winter squash available. Instead of employing the vegetables as a concave container for some syrupy assemblage, I applied a little summer strategy and mixed three different types of squash with savory ingredients. While I’m certain that this recipe would be successful using all acorn or butternut squash, I prefer the subtle contrast of colors and flavors in the medley and the fact that a lot of winter-squash guilt is assuaged with one fell swoop. Finally I must confess that while this concoction slowly baked for 2½ hours, I became quite the lover of this pumpkin-colored pulp.
8 cups cubed (½ inch) peeled winter squash, such as butternut, acorn and turban
¼ cup instant flour, such as Wondra
2 teaspoons ground ginger
6 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons fruity olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
2. Combine all the cubed squash in a large mixing bowl, add the flour and ginger, and toss to coat. Mix in the garlic, parsley, and rosemary, then season with salt and pepper. Pour in ⅓ cup of olive oil and stir to coat the vegetables evenly. Transfer to a shallow 2-quart baking dish and drizzle the top with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Cover with aluminum foil.
3. Bake covered 1½ hours. Uncover and bake until the top is crusty brown, 45 to 60 minutes more. The long baking allows the bottom layer of squash to almost melt while the top layer forms an enticing crust. Let cool a few minutes and serve.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
During my first year away at boarding school I had an outgoing roommate with a flamboyant French father, an elegant Canadian mother and a ski chalet in Vermont. During my first ski weekend with her, Mother Boyer treated us to the spectacular Swiss potato pancake known as rosti. I have never forgotten how delicious it tasted and am delighted to give a recipe in this book. While there are several variations of rosti, this one—with bacon and onions—is the version popular in the Swiss capital of Bern.
6 medium russet potatoes, unpeeled
1 pound sliced bacon
1 medium-size red onion, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook over medium heat 15 minutes. (The potatoes will still be quite firm in the centers.) Drain the potatoes and rinse under cold water. Drain again and refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight.
2. Place the bacon in a large skillet and cook over medium heat until crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain on paper towels, then crumble the bacon.
3. Peel the chilled potatoes. In a food processor fitted with the shredding disk or on the large holes of a hand-held grater, shred the potatoes. In a mixing bowl, toss the potatoes with the bacon, onion, salt, and pepper.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the potato mixture, spread it evenly over the pan, and press it down firmly with a metal spatula. Cook over medium heat until the underside is golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.
5. To flip the pancakes, remove the skillet from the heat, invert a large heatproof plate over the skillet, and using potholders, unmold it onto the plate. Add the remaining butter and oil to the skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Slide the pancake back into the skillet, uncooked side down. Continue cooking and pressing down with the spatula until the underside is golden, 10 to 12 minutes more.
6. Slide the pancake onto a heated platter. Cut it into wedges and serve at once.
Makes 6 to 8 side-dish servings
There is no more sinful, simple, and satisfying combination in the world than a good gratin of sliced potatoes and nutty Gruyère cheese. With a dish of this in the oven or on the table, it will be of little concern how frightful the weather is outside. Let it snow!
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
2½ pounds (8 to 10) russet potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded
1 large egg
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy or whipping cream
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Butter the bottom and sides of a 13 × 9 × 2-inch gratin dish. Then, scatter the minced garlic over the bottom.
3. Make a single layer of potato slices in the dish, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with a few tablespoons of cheese. Repeat the layers until all the potatoes are used.
4. Whisk together the egg, milk, and cream; pour this mixture over the potatoes. Sprinkle all the remaining cheese on top.
5. Bake until the potatoes are tender and the top is bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour. Serve piping hot.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Every once in a while and much to my amazement, an odd lot of Yukon Gold potatoes finds its way to the normally pathetic produce shelves of Nantucket’s winter markets. I instantly snatch them up because their buttery flavor and golden hue make this recipe superior.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Grated nutmeg to taste
¼ cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a shallow 1½-quart casserole.
2. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until very soft, about 15 minutes.
3. Alternate layers of the onion, potatoes, and cheese in the prepared dish, seasoning with salt, pepper, and nutmeg as you go. Pour the broth over the layers and cover the casserole with the lid or aluminum foil.
4. Bake 45 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the top is lightly browned and the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes more. Serve piping hot.
Makes 6 servings
A fashionable restaurant in Paris by the name of La Maison Blanche started the trend of mashing potatoes with olive oil rather than cream and butter. The results are utterly satisfying. My version has great rustic appeal as I use unpeeled red-skinned potatoes and lots of garlic. This is the perfect accompaniment to that splurging feast with a prime cut of red meat.
3 pounds medium-size red-skinned potatoes
6 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
½ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus additional if desired
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Place the potatoes and garlic in a pot and cover amply with water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, and cook uncovered until the potatoes are tender, 35 to 45 minutes. Drain the potatoes and garlic. Return the potatoes to the pot, reserving the garlic, and cook over medium heat for a minute or two to evaporate any excess liquid.
2. Place the potatoes in a large mixing bowl. Squeeze the garlic pulp from the skins and add to the potatoes. Beat the potatoes with a hand-held electric mixer until fluffy. With the mixer running, slowly beat in the olive oil. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper and serve at once. It is nice to drizzle each serving with a little additional olive oil.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
These sensationally simple and crusty potato spears conjure up the best memories of Italian-grandmother-style cooking. While the potatoes are perfect with all sorts of roasts and grilled foods, I often skip the meat and opt for a purely potato plate.
8 large russet potatoes, scrubbed
½ cup fruity olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and cut into thin slivers
Kosher (coarse) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried
1. Cut each potato lengthwise into 8 wedges or spears. Place in a mixing bowl and toss with the olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Let marinate at room temperature 30 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Spread the potatoes in a roasting pan and bake 45 minutes, tossing them occasionally with a spoon. Sprinkle with the rosemary and continue roasting until the potatoes are crusty golden brown on the outside and tender inside, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes before serving.
Makes 8 servings
One of the great things about sweet potatoes is that you rarely hear anything bad about them. Nutritionists adore them for they are rich in vitamin A, potassium, and calcium. Creative winter cooks delight in the vibrant color and buttery flavor they bring to monotone plates. In this tasty and slightly Southwestern side dish, sweet potatoes discover a natural companion in mashed avocados.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher (coarse) salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup sour cream
2 small or 1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and mashed
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon dry mustard
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
4 scallions, minced
2 tablespoons minced cilantro (fresh coriander)
1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
2. Scrub, then dry the potatoes. Rub them with the olive oil, sprinkle with the salt, and prick with a fork in several places. Bake in a small roasting pan until done, 45 to 60 minutes.
3. Cut the potatoes lengthwise in half. Scoop out the pulp without tearing the skin into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and sour cream and beat until smooth. Mix in the avocado, lime juice, mustard, jalapeño chile, scallions, and cilantro. Fold in half of the Cheddar and season the mixture with salt and pepper.
4. Fill the potato skins generously with the mixture. Sprinkle the remaining Cheddar over the tops. The potatoes may be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated until ready to bake.
5. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F.
6. Arrange the potatoes on a baking sheet and bake until the cheese is melted and the stuffing is heated through, about 25 minutes. Serve at once.
Makes 8 stuffed potato halves
These crisp, lacy pancakes take their inspiration from Jewish potato latkes, which are a popular part of traditional Hanukkah celebrations. The sweet potato flavor is enhanced with ginger in three different forms—powdered, gingersnap cookie crumbs, and crystallized. They make a nice textural contrast to the Thanksgiving vegetable purées and are also a pleasant surprise as an accompaniment to hearty winter stews.
5 medium-large sweet potatoes, peeled
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and minced
½ cup crushed gingersnap cookie crumbs
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
½ cup light cream
2 teaspoons ground ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons finely minced crystallized ginger
Vegetable oil for frying
1. Grate the potatoes with a hand grater or in a food processor fitted with the large shredding disk. Place them in the center of a clean cotton kitchen towel and squeeze tightly to extract as much liquid as possible.
2. Place the potatoes in a large mixing bowl, add the scallions, gingersnap crumbs, and flour, and toss to combine. In a separate small bowl whisk together the eggs, cream, ground ginger, salt, and pepper. Add to the potatoes and stir until well blended. Stir in the crystallized ginger.
3. Brush a large flat skillet all over with a few tablespoons vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat. Using your hands, shape the potato mixture into plump patties about 2½ inches in diameter. Place as many pancakes as will comfortably fit in the skillet and fry, turning once, until crusty golden brown on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture, adding more vegetable oil to the pan if necessary.
4. If not serving the potato pancakes immediately, they may be kept warm on a tray in a 300°F oven. Or they can be refrigerated up to 3 days, then reheated on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven until warmed through, about 20 minutes.
Makes 20 to 24 pancakes
A terrific recipe that manages to be sweet, citrusy, fluffy, and crunchy all at the same time. Serve as a contrast to more savory vegetable preparations or let it star alongside a pork roast, baked ham, or glazed spareribs.
2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 can (20 ounces) crushed unsweetened pineapple, undrained
Finely chopped zest of 1 orange
3 tablespoons golden rum
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Praline Topping
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 cup shredded coconut
1½ cups coarsely chopped pecans
1½ tablespoons golden rum
¼ cup light cream
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 2½ to 3-quart shallow baking dish.
2. Place the sweet potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water, and boil until very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain well and place in a large mixing bowl.
3. Using an electric mixer, beat the warm sweet potatoes with the butter, egg yolks, and brown sugar until smooth. Add the pineapple, orange zest, and rum and mix until incorporated. Season with the nutmeg, ginger, salt, and pepper. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish.
4. Prepare the praline topping: In a small bowl stir the melted butter and brown sugar together until smooth. Fold in the coconut and pecans; then stir in the rum and cream. Spread the mixture evenly over the top of the sweet potatoes.
5. Bake the pudding until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Preheat the broiler and broil the pudding 6 inches from the heat just until the top begins to bubble madly, 45 to 60 seconds. Let cool a few minutes, then serve.
Makes 10 to 12 servings
I have always found parboiling and then baking the best way to cook wild rice. Apple cider replaces the traditional stock in this recipe and complements the woodsy taste of the rice with a subtle sweetness. Diced apples added in the last five minutes add color and crunch.
2 cups wild rice
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
3 carrots, peeled and minced
1 medium-size red onion, chopped
⅓ cup golden raisins
5 cups sweet apple cider
1 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Cortland, Macoun or McIntosh apples (with peel), cored and diced
1. Place the rice in a bowl, cover generously with cold water, and let soak for 1 hour. Drain. Heat a 2-quart pot of salted water to boiling. Add the rice and blanch 5 minutes. Drain again and set aside.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the carrots and onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the raisins and the rice and cook 1 minute more.
4. Transfer the rice to a rectangular baking pan, about 13 × 9 inches. Blend in the cider, wine, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 1 hour. Uncover the rice, stir in the apples, and bake 5 minutes more. Serve at once.
Makes 8 servings