Incurable mistletoed romantic that I am, I adore all the holiday hoopla and merrymaking that culminate in the celebration of Christmas Day. I get swept up in the selection of the most artistic or charming card to send season’s greetings to faraway friends. I become elated by the local search for this year’s fullest tree, most original ornaments, splashiest gift wrap, fancy fireside stockings, fragrant wreaths, berried holly boughs, and healthiest pots of blooming poinsettias. The smells of Christmas—evergreen, eucalyptus, frankincense, pomanders, cinnamon sticks, and sugar and spice cookies baking—are among my very favorites. The sounds of the Yuletide—sleigh bells, silver bells, the Nutcracker Suite, Handel’s Messiah, Gregorian chants, and just good old carols sung by Bing Crosby or conducted by Mitch Miller—add to my sentimentality during this most joyous season.
From an entertainment standpoint, I relish the contagion and festive incentive to splurge with lavish foods and formal parties. If revelers are willing to defy the encroaching cold and hostile climate by donning black tie, tails, velveteen, silks, satins, and taffeta rather than down and long johns, I say greet them with oysters, caviar, foie gras, and white truffles—not dips, chips, and canapés. Indulge cherished family members and guests with crown roasts, standing ribs of beef, racks of lamb, and save the homey stews and casseroles for the nesting instincts that emerge with the New Year. Take momentary leave of the comforts of puddings and pies to savor elaborate trifles and slivers of dense chocolate tortes. ’Tis the season, if ever there was one, for feasts of grandiloquence.
The shells, tongs, and special dishes that traditionally accompany the ritual of escargot eating once seemed like an epicurean novelty but now strike me as more of an unnecessary affectation. These prosciutto-enrobed snails are my no-paraphernalia remedy. Naturally, the irresistible garlic butter has been preserved and even further enhanced with a subtle addition of Parmesan cheese. Serve these as an hors d’oeuvre set out for guests to help themselves or as a pre-theater or after-theater main course.
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 large cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, minced
½ cup minced fresh parsley
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon dry vermouth
1 teaspoon Pernod or other anise liqueur (optional)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
36 paper-thin slices prosciutto (about 1 pound)
36 canned Burgundy snails, rinsed and drained
Minced fresh parsley for garnish
Sliced fresh French bread
1. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter until light and fluffy. Beat in the garlic, shallots, parsley, and Parmesan. On low speed blend in the vermouth, Pernod, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Spread each slice of prosciutto with a generous tablespoon of the garlic butter. Place a snail in the center of each buttered slice and roll up tightly around each snail. Arrange the wrapped snails close together and seam side down in a baking dish. (The snails may also be placed in individual gratin dishes allowing 6 per serving.)
3. When ready to cook the escargot, preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the escargot for 10 minutes. Turn on the broiler and broil the dish a few inches from the heat until the butter is sizzling, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with a smattering of fresh parsley, insert a toothpick in each snail if serving from one dish, and serve at once with plenty of bread to soak up the garlic butter that has oozed into the dish.
Makes 36 snails, 12 to 18 hors-d’oeuvre or 6 first-course or light supper servings
These light, little potato puffs prove to be the perfect vehicle for indulging in a mouthful of your favorite caviar. Pass on a sterling silver tray to set the tone of the season’s most extravagant party.
6 medium baking potatoes
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup milk
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1 shallot, finely minced
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
Salt to taste
Pinch of grated nutmeg
1 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
4 ounces caviar (whatever taste and budget permit)
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Prick the potatoes and bake until tender, 50 to 60 minutes. Let the potatoes cool for 15 minutes, then scoop out the pulp, discarding the skins. Press the pulp through a food mill or ricer into a mixing bowl. Beat in the butter, milk, egg, and egg white. Stir in the shallot and lemon zest; season with salt and nutmeg.
3. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
4. Transfer the potato mixture to a pastry tube fitted with a large star tip. Pipe twenty 2-inch round swirls (coils) in rows on the baking sheet. Use a small spoon to press a round indentation in the center of each swirl (large enough to hold a teaspoon of sour cream and a teaspoon of caviar).
5. Bake the potato swirls until crisp and lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the hot swirls to a serving platter. Fill the hollow of each with a teaspoon of sour cream topped with a teaspoon of caviar. Serve at once.
Makes 20 swirls
Note: The potato swirls may be baked ahead and reheated in a 350°F oven 7 to 10 minutes before serving. They also make a stunning sit-down first course; allow 2 swirls per person.
These miniature popovers are a nifty twist on Russian blini. The buckwheat flour imparts distinctive flavor while the instant flour gives an ethereal lightness. The one trick to this recipe is to serve the popovers the moment they emerge from the oven. Thus I suggest making the batter in advance and giving it a final whizz in the blender just before filling the popover cups. Pressed caviar, by the way, is the broken eggs of Beluga, Sevruga, and Ossetra caviars pressed together into a dense and flavorful paste with the taste, but not the cost, of the world’s best sturgeon roes.
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons heavy or whipping cream
½ cup buckwheat flour
¾ cup instant flour, such as Wondra
½ teaspoon salt
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
4 ounces pressed caviar
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Place the milk, cream, flours, salt, eggs, and lemon zest in a blender container. Blend the mixture, stopping occasionally to scrape the sides with a rubber spatula, until very smooth.
3. Brush miniature muffin cups with melted butter. Pour the popover batter into the cups, filling each one three-quarters full. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes.
4. Immediately split open the steaming popovers and fill with a teaspoonful each of crème fraîche and pressed caviar. Pop whole into your mouth and savor a truly celestial moment!
Makes 50 baby popovers
This famed oyster creation was invented in 1899 in New Orleans at Antoine’s restaurant and named for the richness of its green sauce. The original version had eighteen ingredients in the sauce and has remained a trade secret to this day. Nonetheless, I maintain a very definite opinion on what the perfect Oysters Rockefeller should be and this is my private formula.
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and minced
½ cup minced fennel bulb
1 bunch watercress, stemmed and coarsely chopped
1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons Pernod or Herbsaint (an anise-flavored Southern cordial)
Tabasco sauce to taste
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ cup fresh bread crumbs
1 cup heavy or whipping cream
1 cup grated Swiss cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1½ pounds kosher (coarse) salt
36 fresh oysters on the half-shell
1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots, scallions, and fennel; sauté until the vegetables are quite soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the watercress, spinach, and parsley; cook until the watercress is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
2. Stir in the Pernod, Tabasco, lemon juice, bread crumbs, cream, and ½ cup of the cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Let the sauce simmer 5 minutes to blend flavors and thicken slightly. Cool to room temperature.
3. Spread a ½-inch layer of the salt on each of 2 baking sheets. Cover each oyster with a generous tablespoon of the green sauce and arrange the oysters securely on top of the salt. Sprinkle a little of the remaining Swiss cheese on top of each. (The oysters may be prepared up to this point and refrigerated for a few hours before cooking.)
4. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
5. Bake the oysters until the cheese and sauce are bubbling, 5 to 8 minutes. Serve at once.
Makes 36 oysters, 6 to 9 servings
These baked oyster cups make a substantial nibble and are perfect for open-house cocktail parties where guests expect to make a meal of the hors d’oeuvres.
24 slices rye bread, crusts removed
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
⅓ pound thick bacon slices, finely diced
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and minced
1½ cups sliced domestic white mushrooms
⅓ cup cream sherry
1¼ cups heavy or whipping cream
24 shucked oysters, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup shredded Swiss cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Paprika
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Roll the bread slices flat with a rolling pin and cut out one 3-inch circle from each slice. Brush one side of each circle with melted butter, then press each, buttered side down, into a muffin cup. Bake just until lightly toasted, 5 to 7 minutes. Set aside, but keep the oven on.
3. Fry the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan. Add the scallions and mushrooms; sauté 5 minutes. Add the sherry and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the cream and simmer 5 minutes longer.
4. Add the oysters, lemon juice, cheese, and reserved bacon to the pan. Cook just until the cheese is melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
5. Fill each bread cup three-quarters full with the oyster mixture. Sprinkle the tops lightly with paprika. Bake until set and lightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool a few minutes, then carefully remove from the muffin tins and serve at once. (The croustades may also be baked in advance, refrigerated, and reheated in a 350°F oven until warmed through.)
Makes 24 cups
Entire books have been devoted to cooking oysters, yet, when it comes right down to it, real oyster aficionados swear they enjoy the bivalves most raw, aquiver on the half-shell. The Frenchman Alexandre Dumas wrote back in the nineteenth century in his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine that “Oysters are usually eaten in the simplest way in the world. One opens them, extracts them, sprinkles a few drops of lemon juice on them and swallows them. The most refined gourmands prepare a kind of sauce with vinegar, pepper, and shallot and dip the oysters in this before swallowing them.” I have always been fond of the sauce Dumas describes, which is more commonly known today as mignonette. I offer here two New England variations on the classic French mignonette, which I feel are particularly jolly for December entertaining.
2 shallots, trimmed and finely minced
½ Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and finely diced
½ cup apple cider
½ cup cider vinegar
2 teaspoons coarsely cracked black pepper
Mix together all the ingredients and let sit for 1 hour to mellow. Spoon over freshly chilled raw oysters on the half-shell.
Makes 1½ cups sauce
½ cup fresh cranberries, coarsely chopped
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and finely minced
½ cup dry red wine
½ cup balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons coarsely cracked black pepper
Mix together all the ingredients and let sit for 1 hour to mellow. Spoon over freshly opened chilled raw oysters on the half-shell.
Makes 1½ cups sauce
Note: For a party a large platter of oysters alternating the apple cider and cranberry mignonette sauces is stunning.
I am one who finds ecstasy easily in an unadorned morsel of seared foie gras, so any further saucing becomes a perfect illustration of my aunt’s favorite philosophy: “If you are going to do, you might as well overdo.” In this particular gilded rendition, the salty piquancy of the capers harmonizes smoothly with the silkiness of the liver and the musty sweetness of the wine. Serve and savor, naturally, with more of the late-harvest Riesling, well chilled.
1 small lobe fresh domestic foie gras, grade A or B
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 shallot, minced
½ cup late-harvest Riesling
1 teaspoon light brown sugar
1 tablespoon capers, drained
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1. Cut the foie gras into 6 slices, about ⅓ inch thick. Season the slices on both sides with salt and pepper.
2. Heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until very hot. Reduce the heat to medium-high, add the foie gras, and quickly sauté just until lightly browned, 30 to 40 seconds each side. Remove from the pan and keep warm.
3. Discard all but a thin coating of the foie gras fat from the pan. Return to medium-high heat and add the shallot. Cook 1 minute. Stir in the wine and the sugar and cook until reduced by half. Add the capers and remove from the heat. Gradually whisk in the butter to emulsify with the sauce. Pour over the foie gras and serve at once.
Makes 2 servings
Sautéed calf’s liver smothered with onions, or fegato alla veneziana, is a classic northern Italian dish. It occurred to me one day, when I just happened to have a foie gras lobe resting in my refrigerator, that the ultimate rendition of the recipe had yet to be made. I simmered the onions very slowly with Sauternes and combined them with quickly seared slivers of foie gras. Soar to a great Venetian zenith with this sophisticated twist on liver and onions, then follow with a bowl of grains the morning after to realign the cholesterol count.
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 large white onions, cut into thin crescent slivers
1¼ cups Sauternes or other late-harvest wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large lobe fresh domestic foie gras, grade A or B
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and wilted, about 15 minutes.
2. Add the Sauternes to the onions and simmer uncovered over low heat until the onions are very sweet and caramelized and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 1 hour. Season the onions with salt and pepper.
3. Cut the foie gras into thin slices, about ¼ inch thick. Season the slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until very hot. Reduce the heat to medium-high, add the foie gras, and quickly sauté the slices on both sides just until lightly browned, 30 to 40 seconds each side. Work in batches, if necessary, and drain the fat from the skillet as you go along.
4. When all of the foie gras has been sautéed, spoon a mound of the simmered onions on each serving plate. Arrange the foie gras slices over the top. Garnish with parsley and serve at once.
Makes 3 to 4 servings
Having read on more than one occasion about roasting foie gras whole, I became curious but approached this recipe only after great procrastination and lengthy discussion with my friendly foie gras purveyor. Since I had been anointed many a time with the sputtering fat that is released when even the littlest slices of this delicacy are seared, I feared roasting would reduce this very expensive gastronomic investment to a pool of elite but worthless cholesterol.
Fortunately, the recipe worked perfectly and brought my appreciation and understanding of foie gras to new heights. One word of advice: Most foie gras preparations call for deveining the liver before cooking, but unless you are a brilliant brain surgeon, it is almost impossible to devein a foie gras without causing gross mutilation of the liver. Because it is essential that foie gras for roasting be intact, I didn’t devein it but found that I could remove the major veins quite easily after cooking as I sliced the liver for serving.
1 large lobe fresh domestic foie gras, grade A
1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
⅓ cup Grand Marnier
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons apricot jam
¾ cup fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon cold water
1 tablespoon finely julienned orange zest
1. Soak the foie gras in ice water to cover for 2 hours. Drain, pat dry, and let warm to room temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
3. Sprinkle the five-spice powder evenly over the foie gras, then season with salt and pepper. Place the liver in a medium-size round or oval enamel casserole with a lid.
4. Roast the foie gras in the oven 5 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300°F and continue roasting another 15 minutes, basting occasionally with some of the rendered fat in the casserole.
5. Transfer the foie gras to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm while preparing the sauce.
6. Discard all but the thinnest coating of rendered fat from the casserole and heat over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and ginger and sauté until softened, about 1 minute. Pour in the Grand Marnier and vinegar; heat, stirring to scrape up any browned bits, 1 minute. Add the apricot jam and stir just until melted. Add the orange juice and bring to a boil. Simmer until reduced by about half. Dissolve the cornstarch in the water, stir into the sauce, and cook just until the sauce thickens slightly and becomes shiny. Stir in the orange zest and remove from the heat.
7. Cut the liver on a slight diagonal into ⅓-inch-thick slices. Overlap 2 or 3 slices on a warmed serving plate and nap with the orange ginger sauce. Serve at once with a glass of chilled Sauternes.
Makes 3 to 4 servings
I have frequently seen recipes for soups that combine both wild rice and mushrooms or mushrooms and oysters, but I never heard of one that made a natural merger of all three. If you can imagine a taste even more alluring than any one of the component parts, then you may have a faint idea of how decadently sublime this creation really is.
¾ cup dried porcini mushrooms
2 cups boiling water
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter
1 large onion, minced
½ cup minced celery
1½ teaspoons dried thyme
Pinch of grated nutmeg
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 cups fish stock or bottled clam juice, plus any accumulated juices from the shucked oysters
½ cup cream sherry
6 ounces fresh oyster mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick
8 ounces domestic white mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick
¾ cup heavy or whipping cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1½ cups cooked wild rice
1 pound fresh shucked oysters, cut in half if they are particularly large
Chopped fresh parsley or small sprigs thyme for garnish
1. Place the porcini in a small bowl and cover with the boiling water. Let stand 30 minutes. Remove the porcini from the liquid, reserving the liquid. If the mushrooms are sandy, pour the liquid through a strainer lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth and massage any dirt out of the mushrooms with your hands. Chop the mushrooms fine.
2. Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, porcini, thyme, and nutmeg. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook 2 minutes more, stirring constantly.
3. Gradually stir in the reserved mushroom liquid, the fish stock and oyster juices, and sherry. Simmer uncovered 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. While the soup is simmering, sauté the oyster mushrooms. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the oyster and domestic white mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are cooked through but not browned, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
5. Purée the soup in a blender along with the cream until very smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the soup into a clean pot and return to the stove over medium heat.
6. Add the sautéed mushrooms, wild rice, and oysters to the soup. Cook 10 minutes to heat through and blend the flavors. Serve at once garnished with a little parsley or thyme.
Makes 6 servings
To say that white truffles have an intoxicating aroma is an understatement. I once traveled for three days through Europe in a Peugeot with a fresh white truffle from Alba and I can attest to a real intoxication/repulsion relationship with the tuber’s earthiness. In the case of white truffles, there can, indeed, be too much of a good thing. My advice is to make an exquisite and rare occasion of indulging in this exorbitantly expensive fungus, but never, never travel with one!
I believe that the simpler the preparation the better with white truffles. They should not be cooked but rather shaved whisper thin over a dish at the last minute. This creamy white risotto, lightened with a splash of sparkling wine, is the ultimate truffle vehicle and a wildly elegant first course for extravagant holiday entertaining.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups Arborio rice
2 shallots, minced
5 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
2 cups Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) or other semi-dry sparkling wine
Salt and freshly ground white 2 shallots, minced pepper to taste
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 to 4 ounces fresh white truffles
1. Heat the butter and olive oil together in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook until softened 4 to 5 minutes.
2. Add the rice and stir to coat well with the butter and oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until the rice becomes translucent, about 3 minutes.
3. Begin adding the chicken broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring and allowing the broth to be fully absorbed before adding the next cup, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. When all the chicken broth has been absorbed, add the Prosecco in the same manner. The rice should be al dente and the overall consistency of the dish moist. Total cooking time will be between 20 and 25 minutes.
5. Season the rice with salt and white pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Divide the rice among 6 shallow serving dishes. Garnish each serving with several ultrathin shavings of white truffle. Serve at once.
Makes 6 servings
We always have roast beef for Christmas dinner in my family and I never cease to be overwhelmed by how purely fabulous the meat smells as it cooks in the oven. For me it is as much a part of the smell of Christmas as is pine and balsam. While many cook this cut of beef slowly, I prefer to roast it like a tenderloin—quickly with intense heat to sear in the flavor. Be sure to save the fat trimmings so that they may be rendered and used to make the other two delights of a roast beef dinner—potatoes roasted in beef fat and Yorkshire pudding.
1 rib roast (about 4 ribs, 9 pounds), trimmed of chine bone and excess fat, and tied
3 large cloves garlic, cut into slivers
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon dried rosemary
Kosher (coarse) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Have the beef at room temperature.
2. With the tip of a small sharp knife, cut several ½-inch-deep slits all over the meat and insert the garlic slivers. Rub the meat all over with the mustard and sprinkle with the rosemary, salt, and pepper.
3. Place the meat, rib side down, in a roasting pan. Roast the beef 1 hour (15 minutes per rib) for a rare roast or 16 minutes longer for a medium-rare roast. Turn the oven off but do not open the door. Let the roast sit in the oven for another hour to finish cooking. Remove from the oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
As a young girl, I found the dramatic transformation of Yorkshire pudding as it baked as magical as Santa Claus. Today it is still a source of great fascination. This is my sophisticated, grown-up version of the recipe.
6 large eggs
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of grated nutmeg
2½ cups milk
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
⅓ cup hot roast beef fat
6 ounces Boursin cheese
2. Place the eggs, flour, salt, and nutmeg in a blender container. Blend until well combined stopping to scrape down the sides of the container as necessary. With the blender running, slowly pour in the milk and blend until smooth. Stir in the parsley.
3. Coat a 13 × 9-inch glass baking dish with the roast beef fat and place it in the oven a few minutes to get hot. Pour the pudding mixture evenly over the hot fat. Crumble the Boursin cheese over all. Bake until very puffed and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Serve at once.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
The sophistication yet ease of preparing a rack of lamb makes it a perfect choice for a small intimate Christmas dinner. Both cilantro and garlic share a fabulous affinity for the flavor of lamb.
4 cloves garlic, peeled
½ cup walnuts, lightly toasted
1½ cups cilantro leaves (fresh coriander)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 trimmed racks of lamb, about 1½ pounds each
1. Place the garlic, walnuts, and cilantro in a food processor and process to a coarse paste. Add the lemon juice, olive oil, and Parmesan; process until smooth. Season with cayenne, salt, and pepper.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
3. Coat the racks of lamb generously on both sides with the cilantro pesto. (If there is extra pesto, save it to serve with the cooked lamb.) Place the racks of lamb, meat side down, on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast 15 to 20 minutes for medium-rare meat.
4. Let the lamb rest 5 to 10 minutes before carving. Using a long, thin knife, cut the racks between the bones into chops. Serve 3 to 4 chops per person.
Makes 4 servings
A crown roast of pork is the most dramatic cut of meat I know, which makes it the perfect pièce de résistance at a Christmas dinner celebration. The lavishness of the recipe is supported by the stuffing of wild rice, oysters, and hazelnuts. A feast fit for both kings and loved family members and friends.
Wild Rice Stuffing
6 ounces wild rice, cooked and drained
2 cups freshly shucked oysters
8 ounces bulk pork sausage
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
5 ribs celery, diced
3 carrots, peeled and minced
1 large onion, chopped
8 ounces domestic white mushrooms, sliced
⅓ cup brandy
1 cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
1 package (8 ounces) Pepperidge Farm corn-bread stuffing crumbs
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pork Roast
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons cassis liqueur
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 crown roast of pork (16 ribs, 7 to 8 pounds)
1. Prepare the stuffing: Place the cooked wild rice in a large mixing bowl. Drain the oysters, reserving ½ cup of the liquor. Coarsely chop the oysters and combine with the rice.
2. Brown the sausage in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat, crumbling the meat into small pieces with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to the rice mixture. Melt the butter in the same skillet and stir in the celery, carrots, and onion. Sauté over medium-high, heat until the vegetables are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms, brandy, and reserved oyster juices. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes more. Add to the rice and stir well to combine.
3. Add the hazelnuts and stuffing crumbs and toss to combine. Bind the stuffing with the beaten egg and season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate the stuffing until ready to roast the pork.
4. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
5. Prepare the roast: Whisk together the oil, mustard, cassis, salt, and pepper. Place the crown roast in a roasting pan and brush the outside with the oil mixture. Spoon the stuffing into the center of the roast (any extra stuffing can be baked separately), then cover the stuffing with a piece of buttered aluminum foil. Individually wrap each rib end with a small piece of foil to prevent it from charring.
6. Roast the pork for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325°F and continue roasting until a meat thermometer inserted in the meat away from the bone registers 160°F, about 1¾ hours more.
7. Transfer the roast to a heated serving platter. Discard the foil tips and replace with paper or metallic papillotes if desired. Let the roast rest 15 minutes before carving.
Makes 8 to 12 servings
I have long harbored the romantic notion of breaking with family tradition for one Christmas dinner and serving an intimate red and green lobster feast. If I ever find myself in lobster country with a passionate friend or two on December 25th, this will be the extravagantly delicious entrée I’ll prepare.
3 live lobsters (1½ pounds each)
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons fruity olive oil
1 medium-size red onion, minced
2 carrots, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1¼ cups dry white wine
1 can (8 ounces) tomato purée
1 teaspoon saffron threads
1 teaspoon best-quality curry powder
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup shredded fresh basil
½ cup minced fresh parsley
1. Have a fishmonger or a non-squeamish companion kill the lobsters and cut the meaty sections of each (the claws and tail) into large 3-inch chunks. Discard the head and legs for purposes of this recipe.
2. Heat the butter and oil together in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the lobster pieces and sauté, stirring frequently, until the shells turn bright red, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onion, carrots, and garlic; cook until the vegetables are softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3. Add the wine, tomato purée, saffron, curry, fennel, and cayenne. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by about a third and the lobster meat is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley and basil and cook 1 minute more. Serve at once accompanied with small forks and picks to help extract the meat from the shells. Be sure to have plenty of chilled French Champagne on hand.
Makes 3 to 4 servings
This dessert is simply luxurious. A crunchy chocolate and hazelnut crust offsets a velvety smooth, two-tone filling of coffee and orange-chocolate truffle cream. A sweet worthy of serving as the grand finale to all the holiday festivities.
Crust
1½ cups chocolate wafer crumbs
½ cup ground lightly toasted skinned hazelnuts
2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted
Filling
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons instant coffee granules
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into small pieces
¾ cup sugar
6 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
1 cup heavy or whipping cream, whipped
Cocoa powder for garnish
1. Prepare the crust: Toss together the chocolate crumbs, hazelnuts, and sugar. With a fork mix in the melted butter until the mixture is thoroughly moistened. Using your fingers, press the mixture evenly over the bottom and up the side of a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Refrigerate while preparing the filling.
2. In a saucepan heat the butter, coffee, and chocolate over low heat just until smooth. Cool for a few minutes.
3. Meanwhile beat the sugar and egg yolks together with an electric mixer until light and lemon colored, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in the chocolate mixture and Grand Marnier. Measure and reserve ½ cup of this mixture for garnishing.
4. Divide the remaining chocolate mixture in half. Spread half over the bottom of the tart shell. Fold the whipped cream into the remaining half and spread on top of the first layer in the tart. Refrigerate the tart at least 1 hour to set.
5. If the chocolate mixture reserved for garnishing is too runny to be piped through a pastry bag, refrigerate it until thickened to the proper consistency. Put the mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a decorative star tip. Make a border of chocolate stars around the rim of the tart and place one star in the center. Sieve cocoa powder lightly over the entire tart. Keep the tart refrigerated until 10 minutes before serving. Serve in rather small wedges as it is exceedingly rich.
Makes 10 to 12 servings
I invented this cake for a customer who had requested an extravagant chocolate and raspberry birthday cake when there was nary a fresh raspberry to be found on the island of Nantucket. I cheated by baking frozen unsweetened raspberries into the chocolate batter. The results were so astonishingly wonderful that I decided that the cake would be ideal at holiday time, when fresh raspberries are also out of season. My mother made the cake this past Christmas with the frozen raspberries from the family garden, and we all delighted in savoring a little taste of August in the midst of the subzero temperatures of a Down East yuletide.
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons framboise, Chambord, or other raspberry liqueur
4 large eggs, separated
¾ cup sugar
1 cup sifted cake flour
1 cup individually frozen unsweetened raspberries
Frosting
⅔ cup sugar
1 tablespoon instant coffee granules
½ cup heavy or whipping cream
3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan, line the bottom with waxed or parchment paper, butter the paper and side of the pan, then lightly flour both.
2. Prepare the cake: Melt the chocolate and butter together in a saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth. Stir in the raspberry liqueur and remove from the heat.
3. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks with ¼ cup of the sugar until the batter forms a slowly dissolving ribbon when the beater is lifted. Fold in the chocolate mixture. Beat the egg whites gradually adding the remaining ½ cup sugar until the peaks hold their shape. Fold the beaten egg whites and flour alternately and a third at a time, into the chocolate mixture. Mix gently just until combined. Quickly and gently fold in the frozen raspberries.
4. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool a few minutes in the pan, then carefully invert onto a rack and peel off the paper. Let cool completely.
5. Prepare the frosting: Combine the sugar, coffee, and cream in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 5 minutes without stirring. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and stir until melted. Whisk in the butter and vanilla to make a smooth mixture. Refrigerate the frosting for several minutes to thicken it to spreading consistency but do not allow it to become firm.
6. Frost the top and side of the cake generously. Serve the cake at room temperature. If you wish, serve the cake with a dollop of whipped cream or on a pool of raspberry sauce or crème anglaise.
Makes 8 servings
I used to be terrified of tackling dessert recipes that called for technical devices like candy thermometers. But my love for European-style chestnut desserts encouraged me to address my fear of science in order to indulge in the intense emotional gratification of this luscious cake. I discovered that candy thermometers were actually nifty little gadgets, and that a meltingly rich chestnut confection makes a quintessential cap to Christmas dinner.
Chestnut Mousse
1 can (15½ ounces) chestnut purée
2 tablespoons crème de cacao
1 teaspoon maple extract
½ cup (packed) light brown sugar
¼ cup water
3 large egg yolks
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Chocolate Mousse
10 ounces bittersweet chocolate
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
3 large egg yolks
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
6 large egg whites
1. One day before serving, lightly oil a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom and sides with waxed paper and lightly oil the paper. Set aside.
2. Prepare the chestnut mousse: Using an electric mixer, in a medium-size mixing bowl beat together the chestnut purée, crème de cacao, and maple extract until very smooth. Set aside.
3. Bring the brown sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook until the mixture registers 220°F on a candy thermometer, about 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile beat the 3 egg yolks at high speed with an electric mixer until pale yellow. Continue beating while slowly pouring the hot sugar syrup over the egg yolks. Beat until the mixture is thick and cool, about 5 minutes. Continue beating while adding the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all is incorporated and smooth, then beat in the chestnut mixture. Set aside while preparing the chocolate mousse.
5. Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Cool slightly. Bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan and continue to boil until the mixture registers 220°F on a candy thermometer. Beat the 3 egg yolks and beat in the sugar syrup and butter as directed in Step 4. Add the melted chocolate and beat until smooth.
6. Beat the egg whites in a large mixing bowl until stiff but not dry. Gently fold half the egg whites into the chestnut mousse and the other half into the chocolate mousse.
7. Spread about one-third of the chestnut mousse evenly in the prepared pan. Cover with half the chocolate mousse, then another third of the chestnut mixture. Repeat, ending with the last third of the chestnut mousse on top. Cover the loaf with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
8. Just before serving, run a sharp knife around the inside of the pan and invert the cake onto a serving platter. Cut the cake into ½-inch slices. It may be further embellished with a dollop of whipped cream or a pool of crème anglaise.
Makes 12 to 15 servings
Lots of people are fond of making leaden-fruitcake jokes, but I personally don’t feel that any Christmas is complete without the ritual of baking the cake, brushing it with spirits for at least a month, and then finally nibbling on the masterpiece on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and probably throughout all of January. This recipe came from my mother’s mother, my greatly adored Grandmother Florian. The finished product looks like a stained glass window when sliced and held up to the light. In addition to holiday indulgence, the cake has been used on at least one occasion as the wedding cake base for the nuptials of a Florian grandchild. My grandmother noted on the original recipe that it was “odd to mix but really excellent.”
1½ pounds pitted dates, coarsely chopped
1 pound candied pineapple, coarsely chopped
1 pound candied whole red cherries
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
2 pounds pecan halves
½ cup brandy, rum, or spirit of choice
1. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Grease either two 9-inch spring-form pans or two 9 × 5-inch loaf pans. Line with parchment or waxed paper and grease the paper.
2. Mix together the dates, pineapples, and cherries in a large mixing bowl. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt, then resift the mixture over the fruit. Mix well with your hands to ensure that each piece of fruit is well coated with flour.
3. Beat the eggs in a small bowl until frothy. Gradually beat in the sugar and continue beating until the mixture is thick and lemon colored. Add to the fruit mixture and combine well.
4. Add the nuts to the batter and mix with your hands until everything is evenly distributed and well coated with the batter.
5. Pack the batter into the prepared pans, pressing down lightly. Bake until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, 1½ to 1¾ hours. Cool to room temperature.
6. Unmold the cakes from the pans. Place each in the center of a large, doubled piece of cheesecloth. Sprinkle the cakes with some of the brandy or rum. Wrap in the cloth, then wrap again in aluminum foil. Store the cakes at room temperature, sprinkling with some more of the brandy or rum every week or so, for 2 to 4 weeks before serving.
Makes 2 large fruitcakes
This rendition of the classic Austrian dessert borrows its flavors from another famous Viennese confection, the sacher torte.
Chocolate-Hazelnut Crust
1 cup skinned hazelnuts, lightly toasted
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons finely grated cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Pinch of salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
2 teaspoons ground
2 large egg yolks orange zest
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Apricot Filling
½ cup dried apricots, cut into quarters
¼ cup Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
¼ cup fresh orange juice
1 jar (16 ounces) apricot preserves
2 large egg whites
2 tablespoons slivered almonds
Confectioners’ sugar for garnish
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Prepare the crust: Place the hazelnuts and confectioners’ sugar in a food processor and process until the nuts are finely ground. Add the flour, granulated sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, cloves, and salt; process to blend. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolks and the citrus zests; process until dough forms into a ball.
3. Press a little bit more than half the dough into an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Make sure the dough covers the bottom and the side of the pan. Wrap the remaining dough in plastic and refrigerate.
4. Bake the tart shell until just beginning to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.
5. Meanwhile prepare the filling: Combine the apricots, liqueur, and orange juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered 10 minutes. Add the apricot preserves and simmer until melted, about 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat and spread over the bottom of the cooled tart shell.
6. Roll out the remaining dough ¼ inch thick. Cut into ½-inch-wide strips and arrange in a lattice pattern over the top of the torte. Use any scraps to finish off the edges. Beat the egg whites until frothy, then brush all over the torte. Sprinkle the top with the slivered almonds and brush once more with the egg whites.
7. Bake the linzertorte until the almonds are browned and the jam filling is bubbling, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool the torte completely, remove the side of the pan, and dust the top with sifted confectioners’ sugar just before serving.
Makes 8 servings
Trifle is an English pudding that became popular as a Christmas dessert during the Victorian era. The standard trifle consists of lady-fingers or sponge cake spread with jam and then layered with custard, fruit, whipped cream, and sherry. A clear glass bowl is the preferred serving dish so that the lovely layers may be admired. My recipe takes a few liberties: A fluffy apricot mousse replaces the custard and the layers are interlaced with crumbled almond macaroons and raspberries. Trifle makes a spirited and decorative finale to Christmas dinner and has the added bonus of advance assembly.
Apricot Mousse
8 ounces dried apricots
2½ cups water
½ cup cream sherry
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
¼ cup cold water
5 large eggs, separated
1 cup milk
¾ cup sugar
Pinch of cream of tartar
¾ cup heavy or whipping cream, whipped to hold a stiff peak
2 dozen ladyfingers
¾ cup red currant jam
½ cup cream sherry
12 chewy almond macaroons, each 2 inches in diameter
1½ cups frozen unsweetened whole raspberries
Garnish
¾ cup heavy or whipping cream, whipped to hold a stiff peak
½ cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted
1. Prepare the apricot mousse: In a small saucepan combine the apricots and water. Bring the water to a boil, then simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apricots are very soft and most of the water has evaporated, 25 to 30 minutes. Add the sherry and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.
2. Purée the apricots with the liquid in a food processor. Transfer the purée to a large mixing bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
3. Meanwhile sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a small bowl; let sit to soften for 10 minutes. Whisk together the egg yolks, milk, and ½ cup of the sugar in a small heavy saucepan stirring constantly, over medium-low heat until just thick enough to coat a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes. Be careful not to let the custard boil. Remove the custard from the heat, add the softened gelatin, and stir until the gelatin is dissolved. Stir the custard mixture into the apricot purée until well combined. Continue cooling the mixture to room temperature.
4. When the mixture has cooled, beat the egg whites until frothy. Beat in the cream of tartar and remaining ¼ cup sugar, a little at a time, and continue to beat until the whites hold soft, glossy peaks. Have the cream whipped and ready at this point as well. Stir one-quarter of the whites into the apricot mixture, then fold in the remaining whites. Just before the whites are completely incorporated, fold in the whipped cream gently but thoroughly.
5. Assemble the trifle: Spread half the ladyfingers on the split side with half the jam. Line the bottom of a 2½ to 3-quart glass bowl with the ladyfingers, jam side up. Drizzle with half the sherry and sprinkle with half the macaroons. Top with half the raspberries, then spread half the apricot mousse over the top. Repeat the layers ending with the final half of the apricot mousse.
6. Cover the trifle and refrigerate at least 6 hours or up to 3 days. Just before serving, decorate the trifle by piping rosettes of whipped cream around the edge and sprinkling the top with the toasted almonds. Spoon the trifle into shallow glass serving bowls.
Makes 10 to 12 servings