Central Java
As home to the great world-class monuments of Borobudur and Prambanan, this is the must-see region of Java. Jakarta may be the nation’s capital, but the Javan identity is at its strongest here, in the island’s historic heartland. This is where Java’s first major Indian-inspired civilisation originated and it served as the stronghold of the great Islamic sultanates centred on the kraton (walled city palaces) of Yogyakarta and Solo. Today, Central Java (Jawa Tengah) remains the province where the island’s cultural traditions are most readily observable.
Although Central Java has a reputation for having a short fuse when contending with religious and political sentiments, it’s a relaxed, easy-going province for visitors. Yogyakarta (at the centre of its own quasi-independent ‘special region’ stretching from the south coast to Gunung Merapi) and Solo, just 65km to the northeast, are Java’s most interesting cities. But even Semarang, the province’s busy, maritime capital, has some charm.
8Getting There & Away
Central Java is well serviced by public transport, with an excellent rail network linking the main cities of Semarang and Yogyakarta with the capital, Jakarta, and cities in the east of Java, including Surabaya. Luxury buses and less comfortable minibuses connect most small towns. The south coast is less accessible but car hire with a driver is easily arranged.
Wonosobo
%0286 / Pop 700,000 / Elev 781m
Bustling Wonosobo is the main gateway to the Dieng Plateau. At 900m above sea level in the central mountain range, it has a pleasant, almost temperate climate and attracts visitors from the hotter lowlands. While it lacks any obvious sights, it is nonetheless an attractive place with a large alun-alun and a typical rural town market. With a selection of comfortable accommodation options, Wonosobo makes a good base for exploring the region, including the Dieng Plateau, which is just over an hour away and served by regular buses.
4Sleeping
oPondok BambooGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0818 948 495; sendangsaribamboo@gmail.com; Jl Raya Dieng Km7; r incl breakfast 400,000Rp; 
p
n) 
S
This delightful guesthouse, at the top of the tiny village of Kalikuning, has three chalets with bamboo fixtures and fittings within the family acreage. But the main attraction isn’t the rooms, the beautiful rural location or the quaintness of the village – rather it’s the genuine emphasis on family hospitality. Meals are possible (lunch or dinner 30,000Rp) but private transport is required.
Hotel Surya AsiaBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%0286-322992; suryaasia@yahoo.com; Jl Jenderal A Yani 137; r incl breakfast 500,000-975,000Rp; p
a
W)
Not the most elegant of hotels perhaps, but this competent business hotel is one of several similar no-nonsense accommodation options in the centre of town. Rooms are large, comfortable and well maintained and the popular Basement Café and Resto is next door.
Duta HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0286-321674, 0813 9337 9954; Jl Rumah Sakit III; d incl breakfast 200,000-300,000Rp; paW)
Located 3km from the bus station, this guesthouse has been hosting travellers for years. The attractive rooms are arranged around a beautiful walled garden and the new additions sport elaborately carved facades with traditional wooden doorways. The entire house is decorated with interesting memorabilia, collected by the owner’s mother.
Gallery Hotel KresnaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(%0286-324111; www.kresnahotelwonosobo.com; Jl Pasukan Ronggolawe 30; r/exec deluxe incl breakfast 650,000/825,000Rp; a
iW
s)
Built as a retreat for Dutch planters, the Kresna dates from 1921 and retains a certain colonial charm with stained-glass windows and polished floors. Sadly little investment has been made to maintain standards and rooms are old fashioned and poorly serviced. Staff are delightful, however, and facilities include a grand restaurant, pleasant bar, pool table and a large pool.
5Eating
Basement Café and RestoINTERNATIONAL$
(%0286-322992; Jl Jenderal A Yani 137; mains 35,000Rp, large Bintang 48,000Rp; 
h1-11pm)
Live music every Saturday (7.30-10pm) has helped to establish this stylish basement bar and restaurant as a popular gathering point for locals and foreigners. In the heart of town, it serves local dishes and simple international fare, but coffee is its trump card – delicious brews served with home-baked gingerbread.
DiengINDONESIAN$
(%0286-321266; Jl Sindoro 12; meals 15,000-40,000Rp; h8am-7pm; 
v)
Occupying a Dutch colonial building, this restaurant comes into its own at lunchtime, when busloads of tourists pile in for the buffet-style lunch on route to Dieng. Available dishes include mie goreng (fried noodles), rendang (beef coconut curry), soups, fried chicken and shrimp, as well as a range of vegetarian and tofu dishes. Early evening the food is a tad retro!
Shanti RahayuINDONESIAN$
(%0286-321357; Jl Jenderal A Yani 122; meals 15,000-35,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
Locals rate this inexpensive, fluorescent-lit restaurant as one of the best for authentic Central Javanese cuisine. The chicken curries come recommended and the establishment vies for a prize for the largest range of rice crackers.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The historic Kresna hotel has a bar with a pool table, making it a good spot for a drink in the evening, and Basement Café and Resto attracts a younger crowd.
De KoffieCAFE
(Jl Mayor Kaslam 29; h2-10pm)
This lively venue hosts live bands each Saturday (7pm) and has a friendly youthful vibe. Mains cost around 22,500Rp.
8Getting There & Away
Wonosobo’s main Mendolo Bus Terminal (Jl Raya Kertek) is 4km out of town on the Magelang road.
There are buses connecting Wonosobo with Yogyakarta (60,000Rp, four hours), Jakarta (150,000Rp, 10 to 12 hours), Borobudur (25,000Rp, three hours) and Magelang (15,000Rp, 40 minutes) until about 4pm. There are also services to Surabaya (185,000Rp, 10 hours) and Bandung (88,000Rp, 8½ hours, at 6pm).
Hourly buses go to Semarang (45,000Rp, four hours), passing through Ambarawa (35,000Rp, 2½ hours).
Frequent buses to Dieng (25,000Rp, one hour) leave throughout the day (the last at 5pm) and continue on to Batur; you can catch them on Jl Rumah Sakit, 100m from Duta Homestay.
Sumber Alam (%0286-321589; www.sumberalam.co.id) has door-to-door minibuses to Yogyakarta (60,000Rp, 3½ hours) via Borobudur (50,000Rp, 2½ hours).
Dieng Plateau
%0286 / Pop less than 3000 / Elev 2085m
The lofty volcanic plateau of Dieng (Abode of the Gods), a fertile landscape laced with terraced potato and tobacco fields, is home to some of the oldest Hindu architecture in Java. More than 400 temples, most dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, originally covered this 2000m-high plain, but they were abandoned and forgotten and only rediscovered in 1856 by the archaeologist Van Kinsbergen.
These squat, simple temples, while of great archaeological importance, can be slightly underwhelming for non-experts. Rather, Dieng’s striking scenery, which comes into its own during and just after the rainy season, is the main reason to make the long journey to this region.
A word of warning: the area has become popular with local coach tours and unfortunately this has contributed to the despoliation of some sights, particularly Kawah Sikidang. Those who have seen active crater lakes elsewhere may want to give Kuwah Sikidang a miss.
1Sights & Activities
The temples and the main natural sights can easily be visited in one day on foot. An early start, before the afternoon mists roll in, is worthwhile as the waters of Telaga Warna (Coloured Lake) are most striking in sunlight.
A pleasant three- or four-hour walk begins at the Arjuna Complex, near to Dieng village, and loops along the road to Candi Bima, Kawah Sikidang (Crater) and Telaga Warna. The latter can be circumnavigated or viewed from the nearby hilltop before returning to the village.
Pandering to the local obsession with selfie photographs, it can at times feel as if the whole plateau is being exploited as a stage set for photo opportunities. This means that many of the natural sights are now littered with swings and giant lettering, heart-shaped selfie frames and other tourist paraphernalia. While this has some cultural interest, it may disappoint those going in search of wild nature. Ubiquitous litter is a further issue.
oTelaga WarnaLAKE
(Coloured Lake; Mon-Fri 107,500Rp, Sat & Sun 157,500Rp; h7am-5pm)
Ringed by highland forest and steep-sided vegetable terraces, this lake is renowned for its exquisite colour. Ranging from a delicate turquoise to a rich cobalt blue, the hue of the water is determined by the sulphur deposits that bubble up from the depths. A trail circumnavigates both Telaga Warna and neighbouring Telaga Pengilon, paved in concrete for most of the way. The lakeside offers lots of secluded spots for a picnic and opportunities to hike along paths through neighbouring terraces.
Ratapan AnginVIEWPOINT
(Dieng Plateau Theatre; 30,000Rp; h5am-6pm)
For a spectacular perspective of Telaga Warna, it’s worth climbing the hill above the lake. Called Ratapan Angin (and signposted as Dieng Plateau Theatre), this established viewpoint is accessible by car for around 500m, but the remaining half kilometre to the hilltop is via a steep path. At the top, enterprising locals have built a variety of selfie stations, including a rope bridge and swings, none of which mar the view, which is particularly striking around sunset.
Candi BimaHINDU TEMPLE
(
F)
Gunung SikunirVIEWPOINT
South of Dieng village, the main attractions are the sunrise viewpoint of Gunung Sikunir, 1km past Sembungan village, and the shallow lake of Telaga Cebong. Views from Sikunir are spectacular, stretching across Dieng and east as far as Merapi and Merbabu volcanoes on a clear day. To reach the hill in time for sunrise, start at 4am from Dieng. It’s a one-hour walk to Sembungan and another 30 minutes to the top of the hill. Guides charge around 150,000Rp per person.
Kawah SileriLAKE
Kawah Sileri, 2km off the main road and 6km from Dieng village, is a smoking crater with a hot lake that makes a fascinating sight from the hill above. The sheltered viewpoint is accessible by car – if anyone can be persuaded to drive there! The funnels of sulphuric steam rising from the cauldron below, and the strewn ash across the hillside, give witness to the angry nature of this active site.
Arjuna ComplexHINDU TEMPLE
(incl Candi Gatutkaca & Kawah Sikidang 30,000Rp; h7am-6pm)
The five main Shiva temples that form the Arjuna Complex are clustered together in the middle of the Dieng Plateau. In common with other temples in the area, they are named after wayang (Javanese puppet theatre performance) heroes from the Mahabharata epic: Arjuna, Puntadewa, Srikandi, Sembadra and Semar. With mouth-shaped doorways and bell-shaped windows, some still attract acts of worship including the burning of incense. Raised paths link the temples as the area is often waterlogged in the rainy season.
Museum Kailasa DiengMUSEUM
(5000Rp; h8am-3pm)
This museum displays an array of Hindu statues and cultural artifacts in two buildings. It is perhaps of only passing interest but there are a few gems, including a statue of Shiva’s carrier, Nandi the bull (with the body of a man and the head of a bull), a headless image of Shiva and an animist gargoyle sporting an erection. All displays are in Bahasa Indonesia.
It’s across the road from Candi Gatutkaca (incl Arjuna temples & Kawah Sikidang 30,000Rp).
Kawah CandradimukaLAKE
Nine kilometres from Dieng village is the pleasant 1.5km trail through fields to Kawah Candradimuka. A spur of the trail branches off to two lakes: Telaga Nila (a longer, two-hour walk) and Telaga Dringo. Just a few hundred metres past the turn-off to Kawah Candradimuka is Sumur Jalatunda. This well is in fact a deep hole some 100m across with vertical walls plunging to bright-green waters. Only the well is accessible by car.
SembunganVILLAGE
South of the geothermal station, the paved road leads to Sembungan, which, at 2300m, is said to be the highest village in Java. Potato farming has made this large community relatively wealthy. It is a worthwhile destination as part of a hike to the neighbouring viewpoint of Gunung Sikunir, which lies a further half hour from the village.
Kawah SikidangLAKE
(incl Arjuna Complex & Candi Gatutkaca 30,000Rp)
This volcanic crater with steaming vents and bubbling mud ponds is a major local tourist attraction, marked by rows of warung food stalls and strategically positioned selfie stations. This isn’t the place to commune with nature, however fascinating the flopping mud pools and whistling vents of steam, not least because quad-bike routes and the inevitable litter have spoilt the site. Nonetheless, for the nascent vulcanologist, it makes a reasonable first introduction to an eruptive landscape.
Gunung PrauHIKING
A popular, steep, three-hour guided trek to Gunung Prau (2565m) begins from Dieng village at 3am in order to catch the sunrise on the summit. The top isn’t a defined peak but a rolling savannah with views of five volcanoes and eight mountains. Several outfitters offer the trek. Losmen Budjono charges 250,000Rp.
4Sleeping & Eating
Dieng’s dozen or more guesthouses are notoriously poor value. Spartan conditions, semi-clean rooms and cool or lukewarm water are the norm. The village is tiny and most accommodation is on the main road. Staying in Wonosobo, which has better facilities, provides a more comfortable alternative.
Food isn’t Dieng’s strong point, although Losmen Budjono musters tasty favourites and a cold beer! While in town it’s worth trying the local herb, purwaceng. It is often served as tea or with coffee and is said to warm the body in cold weather.
Losmen BudjonoGUESTHOUSE$
(%0286-642046, 0852 2664 5669; www.losmenbudjono.com; Jl Raya Dieng, Km26; r with shared/private bathroom 100,000/200,000Rp; W)
Located near the Wonosobo junction, this simple, sociable guesthouse has been hosting backpackers for years and has a certain ramshackle charm with basic, clean, economy rooms. The friendly, orderly restaurant downstairs (mains 12,000Rp to 25,000Rp) sports tablecloths and lace curtains and rustles up a mean egg and chips – the latter sourced from locally grown potatoes.
Homestay ArjunaHOMESTAY$
(%0813 9232 9091; Jl Telaga Warna; r 200,000-250,000Rp)
Rooms in this friendly family home are pretty and clean with floral bedspreads, painted walls and hot-water bathrooms. Some access a terrace onto the road with a view of verdant farmland beyond. There’s a koi pond in the lobby, basic meals on offer, and free drinking water for reusable bottles. The call to prayer is also crystal clear!
Dahlia HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0852 2722 3433, 0852 2639 0053; Jl Raya Dieng; r 250,000Rp)
This lovely family home with a cared-for garden offers quaint, simple rooms with wood furnishings, private bathrooms and hot water. Meals are also available.
Homestay FlamboyanHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 2760 5040, 0852 2744 3029; www.flamboyandieng.com; Jl Raya Dieng 40; s/d 200,000/350,000Rp; W)
One of three homestays on this corner offering simple but reasonable lodging. All rooms have private bathrooms (mandi style), high ceilings and basic furnishings, cheered up with jolly bedspreads.
8Information
The BRI Bank (Jl Raya Dieng), near Hotel Gunung Mas, has an ATM and changes US dollars.
8Getting There & Away
Dieng is 26km from Wonosobo, which is the usual access point by bus (20,000Rp, 45 minutes to one hour). Most travellers visit Dieng on a day tour and travel agents, including Jogja Trans in Yogyakarta, charge 650,000Rp per car (maximum five people) with a stop at Borobudur on the return journey.
Borobudur
%0293 / Pop 113,150 / Elev 270m
Together with Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Bagan in Myanmar, Borobudur ranks as one of the great cultural icons of Southeast Asia. Looming above a patchwork of bottle-green paddy fields and slivers of tropical forest, this colossal Buddhist monument has survived volcanic eruptions, terrorist attack and the 2006 earthquake. The last caused considerable damage, but thankfully this most enigmatic of temples has remained undiminished in scale and beauty.
Borobudur is at the centre of an attractive assembly of traditional rice-growing kampung (villages), ringed by volcanic peaks. Called the Garden of Java by locals, the region, with its rural homestays and guesthouses, scattered temples and tradition of honey and tofu production, warrants at least an overnight stay. For those who find Borobudur’s bucolic charms a delightful antidote to the urban experience of nearby Yogyakarta, there are plenty of reasons to extend a visit, including engaging with the local culture through cooperative tours.
History
Little is known about the early history of Borobudur except that it was built some time between AD 750 and 850, during the Sailendra Dynasty. A huge workforce must have been required to hew, transport and carve the 60,000 cubic metres of stone in constructing the temple, but the details remain as vague as the monument’s name, which possibly derives from the Sanskrit words ‘Vihara Buddha Uhr’, meaning ‘Buddhist Monastery on the Hill’.
Borobudur was abandoned soon after its completion – partly due to a decline in Buddhism and partly due to a shift of power from Central to Eastern Java – and for centuries it lay forgotten. It was only in 1815, when Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles governed Java, that the site was cleared and the scale and skill of the monument’s construction was revealed.
Restoration of the temple began in the early 20th century under the Dutch. Over the years, the supporting hill around which Borobudur is constructed became waterlogged and the whole stone mass started to subside. A US$25-million Unesco-sponsored restoration project was undertaken between 1973 and 1983 to stabilise the monument. This involved taking most of it apart, stone by stone, adding new concrete foundations, inserting PVC and a lead drainage system, and then putting it back together again.
In 1991 Borobudur was declared a World Heritage Site.
MAKING THE MOST OF BOROBUDUR
As one of Indonesia’s great heritage sights, Borobudur receives large volumes of tourists at all times of the day and the crowds can be particularly intense at weekends. Even at sunrise and sunset, many visitors are willing to pay the surcharge to enter at these times in the vain hope of some peace and quiet in the temple compound. Visiting with the desire to have the temple to yourself, therefore, is likely to lead to only one thing: disappointment.
Rather than trying to dodge the crowds, there’s some merit in embracing the site for what it is – a festival of happy tourism, good-natured jostling in the company of fellow visitors, and ducking below the masonry to assist in inauthentic selfies that show an empty site. With this approach, the site takes on a new relevance, in which school trips and family groups, in-country tourists and pilgrims provide at least part of the interest and offer a valuable opportunity to learn more about Indonesia today. This is particularly the case as foreigners are invariably asked to pose for a photo with Indonesian tourists, offering the perfect excuse to strike up a conversation.
If you’re determined on some solitude, then it’s worth being creative in how you seek it out. Thanks to the nature of the site, it’s perfectly possible to find some space to enjoy a moment of calm reflection even at the busiest times of day. Most visitors head straight up to the top of the monument, take a few photos and descend via the opposite staircase. By taking the slow route to the top, however, and walking clockwise around each of the six terraces, there is bound to be a section of priceless carving overlooked by your fellow visitors in their pursuit of the summit. This approach also allows for a greater sense of anticipation on reaching the top terrace with its distinctive stupa.
Another good way to enjoy Borobudur is to take a horse and cart around the perimeter. The 20-minute circuit suggests lots of vantage points of the whole temple, which adopts different moods at different times of the day. There’s a small hill with some shade 100m or so directly south of the temple, where you can escape the heat and contemplate the monument in relative peace.
1Sights
oBorobudur TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(www.borobudurpark.com; adult 350,000Rp, student or child (6-10 yrs) 210,000Rp, sunrise or sunset 450,000Rp, 90min guided tour 1-5 people 150,000Rp; h6am-5.15pm)
Dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, and built from two million blocks of stone, Borobudur is the world’s largest Buddhist temple and one of Indonesia’s most important cultural sites. The temple takes the form of a symmetrical stone stupa, wrapped around a hill and nestled in a compound of trimmed lawns fringed with tropical hardwoods. Remarkable for the detail of the stone carving, this beautiful monument looks particularly enigmatic at dawn and dusk – a sight worth the extra entry fee.
Borobudur was conceived as a Buddhist vision of the cosmos. Rising from a square base, it comprises a series of square terraces topped by three circular platforms, linked by four stairways that thread through carved gateways to the summit. Viewed from the air, the structure resembles a three-dimensional tantric mandala (symbolic circular figure) through which Buddhist pilgrims could thread a path from the everyday, represented in stone relief, towards a contemplation of nirvana at the monument’s crowning stupa.
Paralleling the spiritual journey towards enlightenment, the 2.5km of narrow corridors lead past rich sequences of stone reliefs that can be read as a textbook of early Javanese culture and Buddhist doctrine. The main entry point is via the eastern gateway; from here a clockwise rotation around the lower terraces reveals a carnal world of passion and desire; some friezes here are deliberately hidden by an outer covering of stone, but they are partly visible on the southern side of the monument. Bad deeds are punished through lowly reincarnation, while good deeds are rewarded by reincarnation as a higher form of life.
Nearly 1460 narrative panels and 1212 decorative panels grace the monument’s six terraces and a guide can help bring this pageant – the ships and elephants, musicians and dancing girls, warriors and kings – to life. Some sequences are played out over several panels. On the third terrace, for example, the dream of Queen Maya, involving a vision of white elephants with six tusks, is represented as a premonition that her son would become a Buddha, and the sequence crescendos in the birth of Prince Siddhartha and his attainment of enlightenment. Many other panels are related to Buddhist concepts of cause and effect or karma.
Little guidance is needed to feel the impact of the upper platforms with their multiple images of the Buddha. A total of 432 seated statues and 72 further images (many now headless) adorn the latticed stupas on the top three terraces. The very top platform is circular, signifying the eternal. Whatever one’s beliefs, the view from the monument’s summit, especially on a humid day when mist rises from the surrounding paddy fields, is sublime – and made all the more spectacular if anticipated by slowly ascending through each of the terraces in turn.
Admission to the temple includes entrance to the Karmawibhangga Museum, featuring 4000 original stones and carvings from the temple, and the Borobudur Museum, with more relics, interesting photographs and gamelan performances at 9am and 3pm. The Museum Kapal Samurrarska houses a full-size replica of an 8th-century spice ship, which was remarkably designed and built based on an image depicted in one of the panels that adorn Borobudur Temple.
Tickets for the temple, which include a free audio guide, can be purchased online from the website. A combined Borobudur–Prambanan ticket (adult/child 560,000/350,000Rp) is only valid for two days and does not include the sunrise or sunset surcharge.
oMendut Temple & MonasteryBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Jl Mayor Kusen 92; 3500Rp, incl entry to Candi Pawon; h6am-5.30pm)
This exquisite temple, around 3.5km east of Borobudur, may look insignificant compared with its mighty neighbour, but it houses the most outstanding statue in its original setting of any temple in Java. The magnificent 3m-high figure of the Buddha is flanked by Bodhisattvas: Lokesvara on the left and Vairapana on the right. The Buddha is also notable for his posture: he sits Western-style with both feet on the ground.
The temple is particularly evocative at night, when spotlit against the evening sky, as the soaring inner chamber feels charged with an almost supernatural energy. Guards here will allow visitors to enter Mendut after dark if accompanied by a local guide (speak to Jaker).
Next to the temple is the leafy and prim Mendut Buddhist Monastery, studded with palms and clumps of golden bamboo. Guests are welcome to join the group meditations here at 7pm daily. You can also stay for three-day, three-night meditation retreats.
Candi PawonBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(3500Rp, incl entry to Mendut Temple & Monastery; h8am-4pm)
In a pretty neighbourhood of tiled-roofed houses, around 1.5km east of Borobudur, this small solitary temple is similar in design and decoration to the Mendut Temple. Sharing the characteristics of other Central Javanese temples, with a broad base and pyramidal roof, it is adorned with elaborately carved relief panels. Pot-bellied dwarfs pouring riches over the entrance to this temple suggest that it was dedicated to Kuvera, the Buddhist god of fortune.
Museum Kapal SamurrarskaMUSEUM
(Borobudur site; 25,000Rp incl film)
This museum, dedicated to the importance of the ocean and sea trade in Indonesia, houses an 18m wooden outrigger, a replica of a boat depicted on a stone panel at Borobudur Temple. This boat sailed first to Madagascar and then on to Ghana in 2003, retracing 1000 ancient Javanese trading links and highlighting the original spice trade with Africa.
TTours
Kaleidoscope of Java is an excellent Yogyakarta agency that operates fascinating tours of the Borobudur region. For cultural interest, locally based Jaker is highly recommended.
oJakerTOURS
(%0293-788845; jackpriyana@yahoo.com.sg; Lotus II Homestay, Jl Balaputradewa 54; h3-4hr village hike 150,000-250,000Rp) S
Most members of this group of local guides were born in the area and provide expert local knowledge, usually in fluent English. Typical tours cover Selogriyo (rice terraces and a small Hindu temple), Tuksongo (glass-noodle production), tofu and pottery villages, a large batik workshop and hilltop Setumbu for sunrise views of the Borobudur monument.
zFestivals & Events
Festival of BorobudurCULTURAL
Around June, the colourful Festival of Borobudur features Ramayana-style dance, folk-dancing competitions and handicraft exhibitions, while offering visitors the opportunity for white-water rafting and other activities in and around the town.
WaisakRELIGIOUS
The Buddha’s birth, his enlightenment and his reaching of nirvana are all celebrated on the full-moon day of Waisak. A great procession of saffron-robed monks travels from Mendut to Pawon and on to Borobudur, where candles are lit and flowers strewn about as offerings, followed by praying and chanting. This holiest of Buddhist events attracts thousands, and usually falls in May.
4Sleeping
Rajasa Hotel & RestoranGUESTHOUSE$
(%0293-788276; Jl Badrawati II; r incl breakfast with fan & cold water 250,000Rp, with air-con & hot water 400,000Rp; aW)
A deservedly popular, welcoming guesthouse with rooms that face rice fields (through railings) about 1.5km south of the bus terminal. A family room sleeps four (450,000Rp). This traditional residence has a lovely restaurant (mains 25,000Rp to 35,000Rp) with Javanese specialties, vegetarian dishes and cold beer. Wi-fi is restricted to the lobby.
Lotus II HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0293-788845; jackpriyana@yahoo.com.sg; Jl Balaputradewa 54; r incl breakfast 225,000-500,000Rp; aiW)
This popular, friendly guesthouse is owned by one of the founders of Jaker, so reliable local information in fluent English is on offer here. The spacious rooms are attractively furnished and some have delightful views of the neighbouring rice fields. The rear balcony is perfect for breakfast, afternoon tea and an evening beer.
Pawon Luwak B&BB&B$$
(%0281-827 5797; Jl Balaputradewa 12; r 300,000Rp; aW)
Accommodation is offered in a couple of simple, traditional rooms in the garden of this coffee shop. Hot water is available and there’s delicious luwak coffee (aka ‘poo brew’) for breakfast.
Rumah DharmaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 9225 2557; ragiljumedi@hotmail.com; r incl breakfast 825,000Rp; paiWs)
This recommended guesthouse comprises neat cottages with teak ceilings in a delightful location amid the rice fields. Helpful staff can help arrange bicycles, but the lodge is in such a pretty spot there’s little incentive to leave.
oRumah BoediBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0293-559498; www.rumahboediborobudur.com; Tingal, Wanurego; r from 990,000Rp; aW)
Set in a magnificent garden of mature hardwoods, abundant creepers and outrageous sprigs of orchids, this boutique hotel (3km east of the monument) offers a magical rural retreat and spa. Contemporary rooms with water features are set within their own secret gardens while the lounge occupies a giant open-sided pavilion. The restaurant offers authentic local dishes cooked by the village chef.
Saraswati BorobudurHOTEL$$$
(%0293-788843; saraswatiborobudur@yahoo.co.id; Jl Balaputradewa 10; r incl breakfast 1,300,000-3,850,000Rp; pnaiWs)
This striking hotel, with its sprays of gorgeous orchids in the marble foyer, is worth considering as one of the few quality hotels within walking distance of the monument. Among the many services in this elegant, colonial-style hotel are airport transfer (350,000Rp for up to four people), massage (300,000Rp per hour) and village tours (from 300,000Rp).
Plataran Borobudur Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
(%0293-788888; www.plataran.com; Jl Dusun Kretek, Karangrejo; r incl breakfast, yoga & afternoon tea from 3,500,000Rp; pnaiWs)
There are 21 villas comprising this elegant heritage resort, the centrepiece of which is a colonial-era pavilion with a wide verandah that functions as the excellent Patio restaurant. With panoramic views across the paddy fields to Borobudur, guests can enjoy a civilised sunrise with a cuppa in the lobby and pop back to bed before breakfast.
5Eating
Most hotels and guesthouses have restaurants; Rajasa Hotel is a good choice for moderately priced Javanese specialities, while fine dining at the Patio is offered in a colonial setting with wonderful views.
For inexpensive local fare, there are several warungs outside the monument entrance.
Alea Coffee ShopCAFE$
(%0812 8080 2956; Jl Balaputradewa 58; mains 10,000-25,000Rp; h7am-midnight; W)
This tranquil cafe and art gallery, with outdoor decking overlooking rice paddies, is a great spot for Javanese coffee and a cold beer. Or roll up at night for Indonesian dishes under the fairy lights. Day beds are also being introduced by the entrepreneurial owner for those wanting to catch a nod after sunrise. Cycling tours of local villages are available for 250,000Rp.
oPatioINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%0293-788888; www.plataranborobudur.com; Plataran Borobudur Resort & Spa, Jl Dusun Kretek, Karangrejo; mains 60,000-300,000Rp; h7am-11pm)
For a magical hilltop setting enhanced by traditional music, this vintage restaurant, 4km west of Borobudur, is hard to match. Eat in the formal dining room or out on the terrace with views of the monument. Local dishes are served with modern international flair and there’s an extensive wine list.
WORTH A TRIP
VILLAGES AROUND BOROBUDUR
Borobudur sits in a large bowl-shaped valley ringed by mountains and volcanoes that the locals call mahagelan – the giant bracelet. Within that jagged edge lies a classic Javanese landscape of old villages and fertile rice fields that have yet to succumb to the urban sprawl of Java’s nearby megacities.
While most visitors to Borobudur arrive on a day trip from nearby Yogyakarta, those who are able to stay a little longer are rewarded with the simple pleasures of rural life – delicious fresh food, clean air and restful sleep punctuated only by the occasional chirping frog. Locals have understood the attraction of this antidote to the urban experience, and offer rural retreats ranging from homestays to forest resorts. They also organise visits to nearby villages, each of which specialises in a particular cottage industry.
Two villages within this rural idyll are of particular interest to the visitor. The small community of Karang, which lies 3km west of Borobudur, is famous for making tofu. There are several kitchens in the village, each producing around 50kg of tahu daily using traditional methods, cooking with coconut oil over a wood fire. Nearby Nglipoh, meanwhile, is a ceramics centre that locals claim has been making clay pots for more than 1000 years and everyone in the village is involved in their production in some way. Today production centres mostly on ibu (cooking vessels), although glazed ashtrays and other pots are for sale too.
8Information
The tourist information centre (%0293-788266; www.borobudurpark.com; Jl Balaputradewa 1; h6am-5.30pm) is a useful resource. In addition, hotels and guesthouses make it a point to advise their guests on local opportunities for spa treatments, Javanese massages, trips to local villages and other attractions. There is a BNI Bank ATM (Jl Medang Kamulan; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) near the temple entrance.
8Getting There & Away
From Yogyakarta, buses leave Jombor terminal (25,000Rp, every 30 minutes, 1¼ hours) to Borobudur. The last buses to and from Borobudur are at 4pm.
From Borobudur, buses leave the Borobudur terminal to Magelang (10,000Rp, every hour, 30 minutes) until 4pm.
Day tours of Borobudur are easily arranged in Yogyakarta, which lies just 42km to the southeast.
8Getting Around
In Borobudur, becak (bicycle-rickshaws) cost between 10,000Rp and 15,000Rp anywhere in the town. Bicycles (30,000Rp for 12 hours) and motorbikes (75,000Rp to 100,000Rp) can be hired from most hotels.
Yogyakarta
%0274 / Pop 400,000 / Elev 110m
If Jakarta is Java’s financial and industrial powerhouse, Yogyakarta is its soul. Central to the island’s artistic and intellectual heritage, Yogyakarta (pronounced ‘Jogjakarta’ and called Yogya, ‘Jogja’, for short) is where the Javanese language is at its purest, the arts at their brightest and its traditions at their most visible.
Fiercely independent and protective of its customs – and still headed by a sultan, whose kraton (walled city palace) remains the hub of traditional life – contemporary Yogya is nevertheless a huge urban centre (the entire metropolitan area is home to over 3.3 million) complete with malls, fast-food chains and traffic jams, even as it remains a stronghold of batik, gamelan and ritual.
Put it all together and you have Indonesia’s coolest, most liveable and lovable city, with street art, galleries, coffee shops and abundant cultural attractions. It’s also a perfect base for visiting Indonesia’s most important archaeological sites, Borobudur and Prambanan.
History
Yogyakarta owes its establishment to Prince Mangkubumi, who in 1755 returned to the former seat of Mataram and built the kraton of Yogyakarta. He took the title of sultan and created the most powerful Javanese state since the 17th century.
Yogya has always been a symbol of resistance to colonial rule; it was the heart of Prince Pangeran Diponegoro’s Java War (1825–30) and became the capital of the republic from 1946 until independence in 1949.
When the Dutch occupied Yogya in 1948, the patriotic sultan locked himself in the kraton and let rebels use the palace as their headquarters. The Dutch did not dare move against the sultan for fear of arousing the anger of millions of Javanese, who looked upon him almost as a god. As a result of the sultan’s support of the rebels, Yogya was granted the status of a special region when independence finally came.
1Sights
Most sights of interest are concentrated in and around the kraton in central Yogya and along, or just off, the main street, Jl Malioboro.
As well as historical landmarks and museums, there are plenty of venues to explore Yogya’s thriving contemporary art culture; the Jogya Art Map from Kedai Kebun Forum (map Google map; www.kedaikebun.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 3; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon) helps navigate these.
YOGYA IN…
Two Days
Start the day by visiting the Kraton and enjoying a traditional performance of gamelan, wayang or dance, then spend the afternoon exploring the kampung (neighbourhood) surrounding the sultan’s palace and the nearby Taman Sari. In the evening stroll the narrow streets of the traditional Sosrowijayan area with its many restaurants.
On the second day, wander down Jl Malioboro scouting for batik bargains, or meander through Yogya’s main market, Pasar Beringharjo. Take a becak (bicycle-rickshaw) ride to Kota Gede to search for silver, then spend the evening idling along Jl Prawirotaman. Alternatively, head to Mediterranea in Jl Tirtodipuran for dinner and have a nightcap at one of the many neighbouring bars.
Four Days
After two days exploring Yogya, it’s time to wander further afield. Rise early to catch the sunrise at the incomparable Buddhist temple of Borobudur, before exploring the verdant countryside and fascinating villages around the monument. Consider staying overnight at one of the town’s rural retreats.
Keep day four aside for Prambanan, the Hindu masterpiece on the other side of the city; it’s fun to make a whole day of it by cycling there via some of the minor outlying temples.
1The Kraton & Around
The historic kraton area harbours most of Yogya’s most important buildings and tourist attractions. The area is best explored on foot. While it springs from historic roots, the neighbourhood is no sleepy relic, making it a fascinating part of town to wander through.
oKratonPALACE
(map Google map; %0274-373321; Jl Rotowijayan, Blok 1; admission 15,000Rp, camera 1000Rp, guided tour by donation; h8.30am-1.30pm Sat-Thu, to 12.30pm Fri, closed on national holidays)
Beside the southern alun-alun (main square), Yogya’s enormous kraton (palace) is the cultural and political heart of this fascinating city. Effectively a walled city, this complex of pavilions and residences is home to around 25,000 people and encompasses a market, shops, cottage industries, schools and mosques. Around 1000 of the inhabitants are employed by the resident sultan. Although it’s technically part of the kraton, there’s a separate entrance (and ticket) for the Pagelaran Pavilion, overlooking the northern alun-alun.
The kraton comprises a series of luxurious halls, spacious courtyards and pavilions built between 1755 and 1756, with European flourishes, such as Dutch-influenced stained glass, added in the 1920s. There were originally separate entrances to the kraton for men and women, marked by giant male and female dragons (although it’s hard to determine which are which!). Although this segregation is no longer practised, an appreciation of history runs deep here, and the palace is attended by dignified elderly retainers, who wear traditional Javanese dress. The innermost complex is off limits as the current sultan still resides here, but visitors can enter some of the surrounding courtyards. Alas, the treasures of the palace are poorly displayed, but it remains a fascinating place to wander.
At the centre of the kraton is the reception hall, the Bangsal Kencana (Golden Pavilion). With a fine marble floor, intricately decorated roof, stained-glass windows and columns of carved teak, it makes a suitably imposing statement for the reception of foreign dignitaries. The gifts from some of these illustrious visitors, including European monarchy, are housed within two little museums in the same courtyard complex. Interesting exhibits here also include gilt copies of the sacred pusaka (heirlooms of the royal family) and gamelan instruments, the royal family tree, old photographs of grand mass weddings and portraits of the former sultans of Yogya. A modern memorial building dedicated to the beloved Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX, with photographs and some of his personal effects, occupies some side rooms.
Outside the kraton, in the centre of the northern square, there are two sacred waringin (banyan trees). In the days of feudal Java, white-robed petitioners would patiently sit here, hoping to catch the eye of the king. In the alun-alun kidul (southern square), two similar banyan trees are said to bring great fortune to those who can walk blindfolded between them without mishap; on Friday and Saturday nights the youth of Yogya attempt this feat to a chorus of laughter from friends.
Daily performances in the kraton’s inner pavilion are included in the price of the entrance ticket. Currently, there’s gamelan on Monday and Tuesday (10am to noon), wayang golek (puppetry) on Wednesday (9am to noon), classical dance on Thursday (10am to noon), Javanese poetry readings on Friday (10am to 11.30am), leather puppetry on Saturday (9am to 1pm) and Javanese dance on Sunday (11am to noon).
oTaman SariPALACE
(map Google map; Jl Taman; admission 15,000Rp, camera 3000Rp; h9am-3pm)
This once-splendid pleasure park of palaces, pools and waterways, built between 1758 and 1765, functioned as the playground of the sultan and his entourage. It’s said that the sultan had the Portuguese architect of this elaborate retreat executed, to keep his hidden pleasure rooms secret. Today the complex is in ruins, damaged by Diponegoro’s Java War and an earthquake in 1865, but enough has been restored to recapture its former glory.
Surrounding Taman Sari is a fascinating residential district of traditional Javanese houses, each of which seems to be vying for the most gorgeous bloom or vine, or for the most vocal songbird. The area is home to a community of around 2000 residents, some of whom have set up shop in their front room, selling crafts or offering coffee and snacks. One enterprising owner requests donations for photographs of an elaborate garden of flowers made from recycled objects.
In the middle of this district, via a labyrinth of small lanes, there’s a unique underground mosque with a central open-to-the-sky atrium accessed via an Escher-esque stairway. It’s become a popular place for a selfie, and watching locals queue for the privilege of posing on the central stair is part of the experience.
Sono-Budoyo MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0274-376775; www.sonobudoyo.com; Jl Pangurakan 6; 5000Rp; h8am-3.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 2.30pm Fri)
This treasure chest is one of the best museums in Yogya. It is only small but is home to a a first-class collection of Javanese art, including wayang kulit puppets, topeng (masks), kris and batik. The courtyard houses some Hindu statuary and artefacts from further afield, including superb Balinese carvings. Wayang kulit performances are held here.
Benteng VredeburgFORT
(map Google map; Independence Struggle Museum; Jl A Yani, Jl Margo Mulyo 6; 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
The old Dutch fort, with its impressive moat, is a popular destination for school outings, as it communicates Indonesia’s recent history through engaging dioramas in the former barrack rooms.
Pasar BeringharjoMARKET
(map Google map; Jl A Yani; h9am-5pm)
Yogya’s main market is a lively and fascinating place to visit. Batik, catering for tourist tastes and mostly of the inexpensive batik cap (stamped batik) variety, is sold here, but the warungs (food stalls), fruit and vegetable stalls and rempah rempah (spice) stands crowded towards the rear of the ground floor prove that this is still a traditional meeting point for vendors. The market is at its most atmospheric early in the morning.
Pagelaran PavilionHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; Bangsal Pagelaran; Jl Alun-Alun Utara; admission 7000Rp, camera 2000Rp; h8.30am-3pm)
Due to a schism in the ruling royal family, there is a small portion of the kraton, overlooking the northern alun-alun, that is walled off from the main part of the palace complex. Entrance to this area, which encompasses several halls containing dioramas, royal photos and horse carriages, is with a separate ticket. The main attraction here is Siti Hinggil, a pavilion used for the coronation of the sultans – and for the inauguration of President Sukarno in 1949.
Museum Kareta KratonMUSEUM
(map Google map; Jl Rotowijayan; admission 5000Rp, photography 1000Rp; h9am-4pm)
This wonderful old carriage house exhibits the opulent chariots of the sultan. The leather-upholstered and intricately painted carriages tell their own tales, with crowns and dragons, gold-leaf emblems and painted landscapes.
Jogja National MuseumGALLERY
(%0274-586105; www.jogjanationalmuseum.com; Jl Amri Yahya 1; h10am-9pm) F
Yogyakarta’s premier contemporary art gallery is located within a brutalist concrete block that was built as an art faculty back in the 1950s. Today it exhibits diverse shows by Indonesian artists that change monthly; the useful website lists details of forthcoming exhibitions. Local bands play here regularly and there’s the retro inclusion of a record store.
1Eastern Yogyakarta
The east of the city encompasses the silver village of Kota Gede and is the location of several museums.
Kota GedeAREA
In 1582, Kota Gede was made the first capital of the Mataram kingdom, the founder of which, Panembahan Senopati, is buried in a tomb here. Today, the area is an upmarket suburb of Yogyakarta and the hub of Yogya’s famous silver industry. Kota Gede is 5km southeast of Jl Malioboro (Sosrowijayan), from where it’s reachable by bus 3A. A becak costs around 50,000Rp.
Affandi MuseumMUSEUM
(%0274-562593; www.affandi.org; Jl Laksda Adisucipto 167; adult/student/child under 6 yrs 100,000/50,000Rp/free, camera 30,000Rp, mobile phone with camera 20,000Rp; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)
One of Indonesia’s most celebrated artists, Affandi (1907–90) lived and worked in a wonderfully quirky self-designed riverside studio, about 6km east of the centre. Today it’s the Affandi Museum, a must for any self-respecting art lover. It has an extensive collection of his abstract paintings, the expressionist style of which features distinctive brush strokes reminiscent of Van Gogh. His car is a real boy-racer’s dream: a lime-green-and-yellow customised 1967 Galant with an oversized rear spoiler.
Tombs of Mataram KotagedeTOMB
(Jl Masjid Mataram; admission by donation; hsacred tomb 10am-1pm Tue-Fri, closed during Ramadan)
The 16th-century founder of the Mataram kingdom, Panembahan Senopati, is buried in the small graveyard of an old mosque located in the suburb of Kota Gede. It is the last resting place of other royals too and the entire site has a sense of reverent peace about it. The buildings here resemble Balinese temple structures and represent an interesting combination of architectural styles. Mandatory sarongs are provided (donation required) at the entrance to the inner tomb complex.
2Activities
Animal Friends JogjaVOLUNTEERING
(AFJ; www.facebook.com/animalfriendsjogja)
Volunteers can work for this not-for-profit animal welfare organisation caring for rescued animals. As well as running an animal shelter, it campaigns on issues ranging from banning the dog-meat industry to contesting dolphin circuses.
CCourses
Yogya offers a variety of courses, ranging from cooking demonstrations to language classes in Bahasa Indonesia.
HS SilverJEWELLERY MAKING
(%0274-375107; www.hssilver.co.id; Jl Mondorakan 1; 2hr course 250,000Rp; h8am-5.30pm)
An introductory course in the delicate art of silversmithing – a traditional cottage industry in Yogya – is available here. Participants are shown how to design and fashion this valuable metal into a ring that can be taken home as part of the course fee.
Alam Bahasa IndonesiaLANGUAGE
(%0851 0389 5187, 0851 0900 1577; www.alambahasa.com; Jl Sarirejo, Maguwoharjo; per hr 138,700Rp)
One-on-one and small-group Bahasa Indonesia language study from a professional school, with student discounts offered. Two hours minimum. Skype lessons also available.
TTours
Agents on Jl Prawirotaman and in the Sosrowijayan area offer a host of tour options at similar prices. Typical day tours are Dieng, Gedung Songo and Ambarawa; Prambanan; Borobudur and Parangtritis; and Solo and Candi Sukuh.
Longer tours, such as to Gunung Bromo and on to Bali and Bromo/Ijen (from 900,000Rp for three days and two nights), are also offered. Tours depend on the number of people (a minimum of two to four is often necessary).
Operators also arrange cars with a driver, with rates starting at 500,000Rp per day and increasing to 1,000,000Rp for 24-hour trips, including the driver’s expenses.
oVia Via ToursTOURS
(map Google map; %0274-386557; www.viaviajogja.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 30)
This famous cafe-restaurant offers many creative tours in Yogya and across central and eastern Java. Bike and motorbike tours include a back-road trip to Prambanan (135,000Rp); there are also food-tasting tours (from 250,000Rp), city walks (120,000Rp to 135,000Rp) and even a jamu (herbal medicine) and massage tour (235,000Rp to 275,000Rp). Yoga classes (60,000Rp) take place morning (9am or 9.30am) and evening (6.30pm).
Kaleidoscope of JavaTOURS
(map Google map; %0812 2711 7439; www.kaleidoscopeofjavatour.com; Gang Sartono 823, Rumah Eyang)
Fascinating tours of the Borobudur region. The day trip (350,000Rp) from Yogya involves visits to Borobudur, Pawon and Mendut temples and a monastery, cottage industries and Javanese gamelan performance. Tours include meals, guide and transport, but not the entrance fee to the temples. Sunrise trips to Borobudur are also possible.
Satu DuniaTOUR
(map; %0274-414431; www.satu-dunia.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 44; h10am-7pm)
Offers a good range of scheduled and private tours that cover both Yogyakarta and Cental Java. They can organise silversmithing courses and arrange motorbike hire, and a secondhand bookstore is on site.
Photo Walks JogjaWALKING
(%0821 3821 4602; www.photowalksjogja.blogspot.com.au; per person 415,000Rp)
Jogja TransTOURS
(%0816 426 0124, 0274-439 8495; www.jogjatransholiday.com)
Good all-rounder for tours to destinations in Central Java and beyond, including Dieng, Bromo and Ijen. Jogja Trans offers a fleet of cars with drivers (per day 500,000Rp), organises bus and minibus tickets and can make hotel bookings.
Great ToursTOURS
(map Google map; %0274-583221; www.greattoursjogja.com; Jl Sosrowijayan 29; h8am-8pm)
Operates tours in Yogya and across Java, including to the volcanoes (Bromo, Ijen, Dieng, Merapi), as well as chartered transport to destinations throughout Central Java.
zFestivals & Events
Jogja Art WeeksART
(www.jogjaartweeks.com; hmid-May–mid-Jun)
This month-long arts festival features hundreds of events hosted in galleries and art spaces around the city. The exhibitions, music performances, poetry recitals and film screenings are advertised around town. Check the website for dates and schedules of events.
GerebegCULTURAL
There are three Gerebeg festival that occur each year, featuring Java’s most colourful and grand processions. In traditional court dress, palace guards and retainers, not to mention large floats of decorated mountains of rice, make their way during each of these festivals to the main mosque (Grand Mosque; map; off Jl Alun-Alun Utara), west of the kraton, to the sound of prayer and gamelan music.
The dates change each year, so contact the tourist information centre for an exact schedule.
Art JogART
(www.artjog.co.id; hMay)
Sponsored by the Tourist Board, this annual contemporary art festival, held in May, features a wide range of local shows and international exhibitions. Running since 2007, most of the events are held at Jogja National Museum.
4Sleeping
Yogya has Java’s best range of hostels, guesthouses and hotels, many offering excellent value for money. During the high season – July, August and Christmas and New Year – it’s necessary to book ahead.
4Sosrowijayan Area
This area is very popular with backpackers, as most of Yogya’s cheap guesthouses are in the souk-like maze of gang (alleys) within this traditional neighbourhood. But the best part about staying in this virtual bule (foreigner) ghetto is that those little lanes spill out onto Jl Sosrowijayan and are within a short stroll of the more authentic Jl Malioboro.
Andrea HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0274-563502; www.andreahoteljogja.wordpress.com; Gang II 140, Sosrowijayan; incl breakfast s/d with fan & shared bathroom 140,000/160,000Rp, r with fan & private bathroom 175,000Rp, r with air-con from 230,000Rp; aW)
The Andrea is a charming little guesthouse with tasteful rooms fitted with stylish fixtures and good-quality beds. Even the rooms without en-suite have a bathroom allocated for private use. The Andrea’s claim to fame is its ‘celebrated terrace’, a slim verandah at street level from where to watch the Sosrowijayan world go by.
TiffaGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0274-512841; tiffaartshop@yahoo.com; Jl Sosrowijayan GT I/122; s/d/tr incl breakfast with fan 100,000/150,000/175,000Rp, with air-con 150,000/175,000/200,000Rp; aW)
A tidy little losmen owned by a hospitable family, with a handful of smallish, quirky and charming rooms, each with private mandi (Indonesian bath). There’s a communal balcony for breakfast and Javanese coffee.
Dewi HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0274-516014; dewihomestayjogja@gmail.com; Jl Sosrowijayan 115; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 200,000/250,000Rp; aW)
This attractive, long-running homestay has lots of character, with a shady garden decorated with driftwood and dotted with interesting mementos collected by the owner. Rooms are charming and spacious, and many have four-poster beds draped with mosquito nets. At reception there’s a book exchange and cold Bintang in the fridge.
Wakeup HomestayHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0274-514762; www.wakeuphomestay.com; Jl Gandekan 44; 4-/10-bed dm incl breakfast 150,000/135,000Rp; aiW)
This misnamed multistorey hostel is well run, and somewhat functional. All the dorms (both mixed and female-only) are pod-style and air-conditioned, though it’s BYO padlock for the lockers. It’s in a good location off Jl Sosrowijayan, mere stumbling distance from this budget area’s attractions. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace.
o1001 MalamHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0274-515087; www.1001malamhotel.com; Sosrowijayan Wetan I/57, Gang II; s/d incl breakfast from 500,000/600,000Rp; aW)
A beautiful Moroccan-style hotel, a short stroll from Jl Malioboro, complete with hand-carved wooden doorways and a delightful Moorish courtyard bristling with lipstick palms (with red trunks) and trailing vines. The rooms are quite plain compared with the flourish of the common areas, but they are comfortable enough and livened up with murals on the walls.
oPyrenees JogjaDESIGN HOTEL$$
(map; %0274-543299; www.pyreneesjogja.com; Jl Sosrowijayan 1; r incl breakfast 620,000-820,000Rp; naW)
This stylish addition to Sosrowijayan marks the beginning of this classic budget thoroughfare. The steel and glass design maximises the light in the tall, narrow building, and koi carp, swimming in a pond in the foyer, bring some splashes of colour to the monotone chic. Rooms are comfortable and elegant and there’s an attractive (licensed) rooftop lounge.
Bladok HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %0274-523832, 0274-560452; www.bladok.web.id; Jl Sosrowijayan 76; incl breakfast s/d with fan from 170,000/265,000Rp, with air-con 360,000/495,000Rp; aWs)
This attractive, well-run guesthouse, on the main thoroughfare in Sosrowijayan, benefits from a greater sense of space than lodgings hidden in the lanes. In a classic Indonesian building with whitewashed walls and tiled roof, rooms are arranged around a central courtyard with a plunge pool and waterfall and have tiled floors and crisp, fresh linen. The cafe-restaurant serves European food.
4Prawirotaman Area
This attractive area has both tasteful budget options and some lovely midrange guesthouses. Plenty have pools and the choice of restaurants is excellent, but it is something of a tourist enclave within an Indonesian city.
oRumah EyangGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0812 2711 7439; www.kaleidoscopeofjavatour.com; Gang Sartono 823, off Jl Parangtritis; r incl breakfast from 220,000Rp, dm 100,000Rp with use of kitchen; aW)
Rooms are simple and comfortable in this stylish suburban house, but the real benefit here is that Atik, the Javanese author-owner-tour-guide, is a font of knowledge about the region and offers great Kaleidoscope of Java tours to Borobudur. Atik’s warm welcome makes this a top choice for an authentic Javanese experience.
oAbrabracadabraHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0819 1630 8777, 0274-287 2906; Jl Minggiran Baru 19; incl breakfast dm from 90,000Rp, r 220,000-240,000Rp, d in treehouse with shared bathroom 250,000Rp; Ws)
Offering a warm welcome, this tiny, arty and original hostel is one of a kind. The communal area, which has a kitchen for guest use, straddles a small plunge pool surrounded by tropical vines. Fan-cooled rooms are individually decorated in styles including street art, jungle room and junkyard-industrial, while the dorms offer privacy with curtains and power points.
Via ViaGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0274-374748; www.viaviajogja.com; Prawirotaman 3/514A; dm/r incl breakfast from 110,000/260,000Rp; aWs)
Part of the expanding Via Via empire, this guesthouse enjoys a quiet sidestreet location not far from the famous cafe-restaurant of the same name. It has seven stylish rooms with high ceilings and semi-open bathrooms, as well as two air-conditioned dorms. Out back there’s a garden and a swimming pool, which features a wall mural by renowned local street artist, Anagard.
Kampoeng Djawa HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0274-378318; Jl Prawirotaman I 40; incl breakfast r with fan & shared/private bathroom from 125,000/175,000Rp, with air-con & private bathroom 200,000Rp; aiW)
Occupying a long, thin house, this tiny guesthouse has heaps of character and helpful staff. The Javanese-influenced rooms (in five price categories) have artistic touches including exposed brick walls, mosaic tiling and pebble-walled bathrooms. There’s a peaceful rear garden for complimentary tea or coffee (available all day) and afternoon snacks.
Delta HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0274-327051; www.dutagardenhotel.com/en/homestay; Jl Prawirotaman II 597A; incl breakfast s/d with shared bathroom from 150,000/175,000Rp, with private bathroom 225,000/250,000Rp, with private bathroom & air-con 275,000/300,000Rp; aWs)
This sunny backstreet guesthouse has a selection of small but perfectly formed rooms built from natural materials, each with a porch, grouped around a pool. It’s peaceful here, staff are welcoming and there are some nice touches such as royal batik bed covers.
oAdhisthanaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0274-413888; www.adhisthanahotel.com; Jl Prawirotaman II 613; dm/r incl breakfast from 150,000/450,000Rp; iWs)
Featuring an intriguing juxtaposition of colonial house and designer hotel, the facade of this elegant option is strikingly decorated with a fun collection of window shutters. Boutique touches include designer sofas and furnishings, a pool edged with palm trees and a large 24-hour coffee shop.
oGreenhostBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0274-389777; www.greenhosthotel.com; Jl Prawirotaman II 629; r incl breakfast from 675,000Rp; paiWs)
This raw, natural-wood and polished-concrete structure hung with vines is a terrific boutique hotel. The lobby is the ground floor of a dramatic atrium, and its lemon-grass-scented rooms offer polished-concrete floors, raw-wood furnishings and floating beds. In the lobby there’s an indoor saltwater pool, and stylish restaurant rustling up seasonal farm-to-table cuisine. Its ritzy rooftop Agenda bar is another highlight.
Dusun Jogja Village InnHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0274-373031; www.jvidusun.co.id; Jl Menukan 5; r incl breakfast from 765,000Rp; aWs)
This fine hotel with its distinctive bamboo facade brings a sense of the rural into the heart of the city. Most of the luxurious rooms have ample balconies overlooking a beautiful tropical garden and large kidney-shaped pool. It’s a 10-minute walk from the restaurants of Prawirotaman, although the hotel’s own open-air restaurant is hard to beat.
4City Centre
Laura’s Backpackers 523HOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0812 2525 6319; www.lauras523.weebly.com; Jl Hansip Karnowaluyo 523; dm incl half board 95,000Rp; aW)
Located down a narrow street in an appealing neighbourhood, this popular hostel spills over two sites. The main building has a leafy courtyard that doubles as a vegetarian cafe. Gender-segregated dorms have curtains for privacy, air-conditioning, power points and lamps. Staff are very friendly and an excellent source of local info. They can arrange bike hire and tours for guests.
oPhoenix HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0274-566617; www.accorhotels.com; Jl Jenderal Sudirman 9-11; r incl breakfast from 1,300,000Rp; pnaiWs)
Right in the heart of the city, this historic hotel is easily the best in its class and is a Yogya landmark. Dating back to 1918, it’s been sensitively converted to incorporate modern facilities. Rooms are gorgeous, and it’s worth paying a little extra for those with balconies overlooking the pool. There’s an excellent bar and restaurant with Indonesian-themed buffets.
oMeliã PurosaniLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %080 8234 1953; www.melia.com; Jl Suryotomo 31; r incl breakfast from 1,200,000Rp; pnaiW)
This centrally located luxury hotel is set in a tropical garden of soaring palms, mature frangipani and carp ponds. Rooms here are comfortable and spacious and most overlook the garden. Excellent Javan specialities appear on the buffet or à la carte for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Gamelan performances in the foyer and themed buffets make this a popular top-end choice.
4Outskirts
Omah Jegok HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 3374 9524; www.omahjegok.weebly.com; Jl Plataran, Kashian; r incl breakfast from 165,000Rp; W)
One for cat and dog lovers, this arty homestay run by Animal Friends Jogja doubles as a shelter for rescued animals. It’s a basic setup with only a couple of rooms (no air-con) in a forested residential area on the confluence of two small rivers, 5km from downtown Yogya. It costs 50,000Rp to get here by taxi.
See You Soon! HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0274-287 2350; www.seeyousoonhostel.com; Jl Sawojajar 25-29A; dm incl breakfast 135,000Rp; aiW)
Along a side street in an appealing local neighbourhood, this delightful hostel is run by a young, friendly team. It’s a compact setup with a six-bed dorm (mixed gender) configured like a doll’s house with bunk beds and curtains for privacy. Downstairs has a small kitchen, computer and TV lounge, and bicycles for rent.
od’OmahBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0274-368050; www.yogyakartaaccommodation.com; Jl Parangtritis Km8.5, Tembi; r incl breakfast & afternoon tea from 1,350,000Rp; aiWs)
About 8km south of Yogya, surrounded by rice fields, this tasteful hotel occupies traditional Javanese buildings with a lily pond in the main courtyard. The rooms are grouped in villa-like compounds, each with a pool, and the grounds are a delight to explore, graced as they are with artworks and fringed by rural vistas. It’s especially lovely at night, lit by torchlight.
5Eating
Yogya is a great place to eat out, with street food and local restaurants offering the city’s distinctive jackfruit and chicken dishes. For excellent restaurants catering to a Western palate, two streets, Jl Prawirotaman and adjacent Jl Tirtodipuran, offer the world on a plate.
5Sosrowijayan Area
Wanderlust Coffee DivisionCAFE$
(map Google map; %0274-292 1902; Gang I 96, Sosrowijayan; mains from 36,000Rp; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun; v)
This Dutch-owned cafe is a cool little hang-out, with awesome coffee, cold beers (happy ‘hour’ is from noon to 7pm) and an interesting menu of vegetarian fusion cuisine. Choose from original items such as tempe rendang curry and its signature pulled jackfruit burger, which comes with sweet potato fries and chilli mayo.
Superman II RestoINTERNATIONAL$
(map Google map; Gang 2; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
Just like the movie, the sequel is better than the original, and Superman II has now stolen the show. At this open-air restaurant offering tasty Western favourites, there’s a miniature banana grove with random goats and chickens – for curiosity, apparently, rather than for the pot.
Oxen FreePUB FOOD$
(map Google map; www.oxenfree.net; Jl Sosrowijayan 2; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h3pm-3am; W)
A popular drinking spot in an old colonial building, Oxen also has a menu of pub food enjoyed in its beer garden or front bar. It does all-day Western breakfasts and brunch, burgers, Indo mains, roast chicken and lamb dinners, and a mean tempe steak for vegetarians.
Bedhot RestoINTERNATIONAL$
(map Google map; %0274-512452; Gang II, Sosrowijayan; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-11pm; Wv)
DON’T MISS
YOGYA’S STREET FOOD
In the evening, street-food vendors line the northern end of Jl Malioboro; here you can try Yogya’s famous ayam goreng (deep-fried chicken soaked in coconut milk) and dishes such as sambal welut (spicy eel) and nasi langgi (coconut rice with tempe). Many students head here in the evening to snack on oseng oseng, which is a kind of mini nasi campur (rice with a bit of everything) and only costs 5000Rp to 10,000Rp. It’s a lot of fun with impromptu lesahan seating (traditional style of dining on straw mats) and young Indonesians strumming their guitars into the small hours. Complemented by the clip-clop of the horse carts and the whirring clank of the becak mob, Jl Malioboro is that different world – that open doorway into the Indonesian way of life.
During daylight hours look out for Yogya’s famous gudeg, a jackfruit curry served with chicken, egg and rice, which is served from stalls all over town. Recommended spots include the string of eateries along Jl Wilijan (500m east of the kraton) or the rooftop restaurant above Hamzah Batik.
5Prawirotaman Area
Bu AgengINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0274-387191; Jl Tirtodipuran 13; mains 13,000-32,000Rp; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun)
Traditional Javanese dishes including eyem penggeng (chicken simmered in spiced coconut cream) are served in this tasteful interior space with wood columns and a bamboo-mat ceiling, twirling with fans. Favourites include beef tongue, smoked fish, beef stewed in coconut milk and durian bread pudding.The kampung chicken is truly free-range, lean, flavourful, slightly al dente and not that meaty. Bone-sucking required!
Tempo del GelatoGELATO$
(map Google map; %0274-373272; www.facebook.com/tempogelato; Jl Prawirotaman I 43; small/medium/large 20,000/40,000/60,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
This stone-and-glass cafe is a delightful venue for Italian ice cream. Flavours on rotation include ginger, kemangi (lemon basil), dragonfruit, ‘hot and spicy’, lemon grass and green tea, among more familiar favourites.
MilasVEGETARIAN$
(map Google map; %0851 0142 3399; Jl Prawirotaman IV 127; dishes 18,000-45,000Rp; h3-9pm Tue-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; v
c) S
Offering a surprise haven from the traffic, this secret garden of a restaurant is part of a project centre for street youth. It focuses on meat-free cooking including Indonesian mains, burgers, sandwiches, salads and desserts. There’s an excellent choice of juices, smoothies and coffee. Every Wednesday and Saturday there’s an organic farmers’ market here from 10am to 1pm.
oMediterraneaBISTRO$$
(map Google map; %0274-371052; www.restobykamil.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 24A; pizza 60,000Rp, mains 50,000-250,000Rp; h8.30am-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
This stylish French-owned kitchen is a delight in every sense and comes highly recommended by expats. Everything is homemade, including the bread. Staff also smoke their own salmon, slice a paper-thin beef carpaccio, offer a tasty tuna tataki, and grill kebabs, steaks and chops. There’s romantic patio dining at the rear and a great shop.
PapricanoMEXICAN$$
(map; %0819 1630 8777; Jl Tirtodipuran 38; mains from 30,000Rp; h5-11pm; W)
More TexMex than authentic Mexican, Papricano’s tasty burritos, hard-shell beef tacos and nachos may make a welcome break from rice and noodle dishes. The fun Day of the Dead murals, margaritas and cold beers make it a popular watering hole.
Via ViaINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0274-386557; www.viaviajogja.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 30; mains 27,000-86,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; W)
Via Via is always full with travellers enjoying their menu of global cuisine including Indian and Middle Eastern dishes, homemade pastas, burgers and sandwiches on home-baked bread. There’s also an Indonesian meal of the day. It’s somewhat a victim of its own success; on a busy night queues of an hour are the norm and service is brusque.
5Other Areas
Tojoyo 3INDONESIAN$
(Jl Urip Sumoharjo 133; dishes 4000-12,500Rp; h4-10.30pm)
Gadri RestoINDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %0274-373520; Jl Rotowijayan 5; mains 34,000-110,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
This restaurant is touched by royalty as it’s located just outside the kraton, within the residence of Prince Gusti Jaryo Haju Joyouksumo, a son of the current sultan. Many of his favourite dishes are on offer, including nasi campur among other rice and chicken dishes. The family’s antiques and belongings make an interesting backdrop to standard fare.
Omar Duwur RestaurantINDONESIAN$$$
(%0274-374952; www.omahdhuwur.com; Jl Mondorakan 252; mains 70,000-240,000Rp; h11am-10pm; Wc)
Located in the Kota Gede area, this is considered by locals to be one of Yogya’s best restaurants, with a lavish setting in a 150-year-old colonial mansion featuring an outdoor terrace overlooking a garden. There’s a wide selection of Indonesian dishes, such as chicken rendang curry, spiced, fried duck and oxtail soup, and Western mains. The nonalcoholic Java punch (25,000Rp) almost beats a Bintang.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oSakapatat Social HouseBAR
(map Google map; %081 1290 9886; www.sakapatat.com; Jl Pakuningratan 34; h5pm-1am; W)
A little out of the way in a residential area north of town is this hip, contemporary Belgian-owned gastropub. It has several local beers on tap along with Belgian beers and a large menu of mocktails. Choose from the leafy beer garden or atmospheric interior with exposed brick. There’s a menu of Belgian fries, great burgers and Philly steak sandwiches on homemade bread.
oAgendaBAR
(map Google map; %0878 3890 6088; www.greenhosthotel.com; Greenhost, Jl Prawirotaman II 629; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
This stylish rooftop bar (and popular restaurant) is as boutique as the Greenhost hotel to which it belongs. The decor is urban chic and there’s a flashy bar where mixologists shake original and classic cocktails; happy hour is 11am to 8pm. There’s Bintang on tap, a great wine list and DJs most nights. It hots up later in the evening.
TaphousePUB
(map Google map; %0812 2444 2255; www.facebook.com/taphouse.jogja; Jl Jlagran Lor 18; h6.30pm-2am; W)
A good spot for a beer, this atmospheric bar is set within a crumbling, stylised, ruined-brick courtyard. It’s a sprawling, eclectic space with bench tables and beanbags on the grass.There’s a big screen showing movies and sports, a menu of pub food and a lengthy drinks list. Live music and DJs entertain Taphouse clientele most nights from 10pm.
Ruang SeduhCOFFEE
(map; Jl Tirtodipuran 46; h9am-9pm; W)
A must for coffee enthusiasts, this tiny cafe feels more like a laboratory with its frosty white decor and high-tech coffee-brewing station installed with digital gadgetry. It serves a range of Indonesian single-origin coffees (35,000Rp), all painstakingly prepared and up there with the best in town.
Awor Gallery & CoffeeCOFFEE
(map Google map; %0274-292 4679; www.awor-gallery.com; Jl Simanjuntak 2; h9am-midnight)
One for those who take their coffee seriously. Grab a stool at the counter and watch aficionado baristas painstakingly prepare Indonesian coffees as an exact science, using V60, Kalita Wave, Aeropress, siphon or traditional tubruk (unfiltered coffee) methods. It has smart decor, a menu of contemporary cafe fare and art on the walls.
Jaba JeroBAR
(map; %0274-545334; Jl Sosrowijayan 45; h8am-midnight; W)
This relaxed bar has a terrace overlooking the street and attracts good reviews. The Indonesian food is reasonable here too.
3Entertainment
Yogya is a key centre for traditional Javanese performing arts. Dance, wayang (shadow-puppet performance) or gamelan is performed every morning at the railway station or the kraton. Check with the tourist office for current listings and any ongoing special events, such as the Ramayana ballet in town or, even more spectacularly, at Prambanan.
Jl Sosrowijayan is something of a live-music hub with casual venues often rocking with local beats – albeit mainly cover bands. For original local indie bands, check out what’s coming up at Jogja National Museum.
Sono-Budoyo MuseumPUPPETRY
(map Google map; %0274-385664; admission 20,000Rp, camera 3000Rp; h8-10pm Mon-Sat)
Popular two-hour performances nightly from 8pm to 10pm; the first half-hour involves the reading of the story in Javanese, so most travellers skip this and arrive later.
Ramayana Ballet PurawisataDANCE
(map Google map; %0274-375705, 0274-371333; www.purawisata-jogja.rezgo.com; Jl Brigjen Katamso; adult/child 5-10 yrs 300,000/150,000Rp; h8pm)
Nightly traditional dance performances of the Ramayana at 8pm, which go on for around 1½ hours. You can dine here and watch the show (600,000Rp). To watch the show without dinner, if booked a month in advance, costs 220,000Rp.
Asmara Art & Coffee ShopLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; Ascos; %0274-422 1017; www.facebook.com/asmaracoffee; Jl Tirtodipuran 22; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat; W)
It calls itself an art and coffee shop, but this split-level grungy venue is more like a restaurant and bar. Frequent live bands play here from 9pm. Regulars include a really good reggae band on Thursdays and there’s a fun, mixed crowd every night. Locals call it ‘Ascos’.
K MealsLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %0274-287 1790; Jl Prawirotaman I 20; h9am-1am)
A fairly standard pub, but worth dropping in for the live music. Bands play from 8pm and feature acoustic music on Mondays, the Top 40 on Tuesdays, classic rock on Wednesdays, the blues on Thursdays, and reggae on Fridays and Saturdays.
LuciferLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %0274-554377; Jl Sosrowijayan; h2pm-2am)
An intimate bar and one of the city’s key live-music venues. There are bands most nights from 9pm.
THE YOGYA SCENE
It may look quiet and conservative by day, but at night Yogya becomes a very different beast. With art-gallery openings, all-night dance parties by the riverside or on nearby beaches, DJs, live bands, MCs and ska punk, there’s an edge to the city that make it a hard place to leave.
The following sites, posted by arts organisations, galleries or bands, feature upcoming events.
Krack Studio (www.facebook.com/KrackStudio)
IndoArtNow (www.facebook.com/indoartnow)
LifePatch (www.facebook.com/lifepatch)
Kedai Kebun Forum (www.kedaikebun.com)
Yes No Klub (www.facebook.com/yesnoklubyk)
Senyawa (www.facebook.com/senyawamusik)
Zoo (www.facebook.com/zooindonesia)
Jogja Noise Bombing (www.facebook.com/jogjanoisebombingpeople)
Dub Youth (www.facebook.com/DubyouthOfficial)
D.I.G. Project (www.facebook.com/doingrouproject)
EnergyRoom (www.facebook.com/energyroom)
7Shopping
Yogyakarta is famed for its crafts. These range from the cheap and cheerful souvenirs of Jl Malioboro and adjoining Jl Sosrowijayan, to exquisite hand-waxed batik and the meticulous silverwork of Kota Gede.
In common with rival city Solo, Yogya is famous for batik. There is a huge variety on offer from inexpensive cotton prints, produced in industrial quantity for the tourist trade and sold at outlets along Jl Malioboro, to the refined hand-waxed textiles, the patterns of which have been developed over centuries.
Most of the batik workshops and several large showrooms are to be found along Jl Tirtodipuran, south of the kraton. Many of these workshops, such as Batik Plentong and Batik Winotosastro, give free guided tours of the batik process from 9am to 3pm.
As a word of warning, some of these workshops give commission to those who bring in potential shoppers and this can lead to a rather aggressive approach by touts around key tourist areas.
Although a few antiques can be found in the shops and markets, be aware that dealers spend an inordinate amount of time ageing puppets, masks and all manner of other goods in the pursuit of antiquity.
Jl Tirtodipuran and Jl Prawirotaman have stores selling artefacts and furniture from all over Indonesia. Prices are generally inflated – bargaining is expected.
7Around Jl Malioboro & Jl Sosrowijayan
OXXDESIGN
(map; www.oxenfree.net; Jl Sosrowijayan 2; h2-10pm)
At the entrance to Oxen Free bar-restaurant is its small concept store, which stocks a diverse selection of cool, contemporary art, indie clothing, handmade jewellery, accessories and hats.
Lucky Boomerang BookshopBOOKS
(map Google map; %0878 6169 8307, 0274-895006; Gang I 67, Jl Sosrowijayan 1; h8am-10pm)
Sells secondhand guidebooks and fiction, maps and books on Indonesia in various languages. Also has a book exchange, and sells postcards and souvenirs.
GramediaBOOKS
(map Google map; %0274-521066, 0274-542055; www.gramedia.com; Jl Malioboro 52-58, Mal Malioboro; h9.30am-9.30pm)
This chain bookstore in the basement of a mall on Malioboro sells a range of fiction and nonfiction in English and has a few maps for sale.
Hamzah BatikCLOTHING
(map Google map; %0274-588524; Jl A Yani 9; h8am-9pm)
A cheap and cheerful place to browse for souvenirs, including ready-made clothes from machine-produced batik, leatherwork, batik bags, topeng (wooden masks used in funerary dances) and wayang golek (three-dimensional wooden puppets). The store has a rooftop restaurant, good for local specialities.
Batik KerisCLOTHING
(map Google map; www.batikkeris.co.id; Jl A Yani 71; h9am-8pm)
One of many Batik Keris outlets in Java selling excellent-quality batik at fixed prices. Best for traditional styles – men’s shirts start at about 200,000Rp for printed batik and climb to 1,700,000Rp for hand-waxed fabric.
7Around Jl Prawirotaman & Jl Tirtodipuran
Voice of JogyaCLOTHING
(map Google map; %0878 3888 3079; www.voiceofjogja.com; h8am-5pm)
Within the labyrinthine alleyways of Taman Sari’s palace walls, this cool clothing store was set up by a local designer, whose T-shirts blend Yogya youth culture with contemporary, indie flair.
Prices start around 150,000Rp.
Batik WinotosastroARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %0274-375218; www.winotosastro.com/batik; Jl Tirtodipuran 54; h9am-5pm)
With free guided tours of batik production before 3pm, this outlet caters mainly for tour groups but that is not a complaint. Their commitment to the art and culture of hand-produced batik has made them a well-respected brand.
Via ViaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(map Google map; www.viaviajogja.com/shop.php; Jl Prawirotaman 30; h7.30am-11pm) S
Via Via is a great place to pick up a fair-trade souvenir. With an interesting range of locally made, sustainable crafts and accessories, as well as organic coffee, spices, Indonesian books and postcards, this is a shop with soul.
Batik PlentongARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %0274-373777; www.batikplentong.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 48; h8am-5.30pm)
Batik Plentong gives free guided tours of the batik process in the attached workshop (8am to 4pm). Prices reflect visits from tour groups, but the quality is high with an emphasis on beautiful hand-waxed batik.
GongARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %0274-385367; gong56jogja@yahoo.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 56; h8am-10pm)
A hole-in-the-wall storefront with an exciting collection of authentic antique wooden puppets and masks from across the archipelago, though most are from Java. Some are 50 years old. To the discerning collector this is a treasure chest.
Doggyhouse RecordsMUSIC
(map Google map; %0274-378002; www.doggyhouserecords.com; Jl Nogosari 1; h10am-9pm Tue-Sat)
The recording studio of local label Doggyhouse Records has a small shop selling CDs and vinyl of local bands; anything from heavy metal to dub reggae. It’s a good spot to get the lowdown on the local scene.
Lana GalleryART
(map Google map; %0877 3929 3119; Jl Menukan 276; h9am-8pm)
Sells contemporary art by new and emerging artists from across the archipelago, many of them graduates of Yogya’s fine arts school.
Mazaraat Artisan CheeseCHEESE
(map Google map; %0274-422 1148; www.facebook.com/mazaraatcheese; Jl Rotowijayan 24; h9am-9pm)
Run by friendly, local husband-and-wife team Jamie and Nieta, Mazaraat’s house-made cheeses are made using organic milk from Mt Merapi, delivered fresh 45 minutes after milking. Pop by to taste and purchase their range of haloumi (their signature cheese), mozzarella, feta, brie, colby and gouda. They also stock handmade artisan food and craft items.
Chocolate MonggoFOOD
(map Google map; %0812 2684 1339; www.chocolatemonggo.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 10; h8am-10pm)
Established by a Belgian expat in 2005 to introduce his handmade chocolates to local markets, this chocolaterie has since expanded into a factory with cafes across Java. This attractive cafe-shop in the heart of Tirtodipuran offers truffles and other tasty samples while customers sip their coffee, and there’s a factory tour for those interested in the art of chocolate making.
ACCESSIBILITY IN CENTRAL JAVA
In Yogyakarta, Difa City Tour (082 328 016 326; difacitytour.com), known locally as Difa-Jek – a combination of the Indonesian words for ‘disabled’ and ‘motorcycle taxi’ – is a motorcycle taxi service aimed specifically at people with disabilities that employs only drivers with physical impairments of their own. Their specially designed three-wheeled motorbikes are all fitted with sidecars that can accommodate a wheelchair.
Borobudur and Prambanan temples are both partially accessible: although there are stairs to get onto the temples themselves, it’s possible to get right to the foot of the temples by wheelchair. The Sultan’s palace (kraton) is mostly wheelchair-accessible.
SRAT (Solo Raya Accessible Tourism for All) was founded recently by local disability activists to advocate for better access for tourists to Solo and Yogyakarta. Tourists can ask for advice at solorayaaccessibletourism@gmail.com.
Hyatt Regency (%274 869 123; www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/indonesia/hyatt-regency-yogyakarta/yogya; Jl Palagan Tentara Pelajar, Yogyakarta) has three accessible rooms. Other hotels claim to have accessible rooms but it would be wise to check their facilities and configuration before you book.
For more information see here.
7Kota Gede District
The suburb of Kota Gede specialises in silver, although it can be found all over town. Fine filigree work is a Yogya speciality and the big workshops produce some very attractive jewellery, boxes, bowls, cutlery and miniatures. There are dozens of smaller silver shops on Jl Kemesan and Jl Mondorakan (two of the main routes through Kota Gede) for more modest pieces.
Guided tours of the process, with no obligation to buy, are available at the large factories. Most shops are closed on Sunday.
HS SilverJEWELLERY
(%0274-375107; www.hssilver.co.id; Jl Mondorakan I; h8am-5.30pm)
Established in 1950, this well-regarded silver shop occupies the same traditional premises and has a workshop onsite. Free tours illustrate the complexity of working on filigree designs and would-be silversmiths can try their hand at making a ring during a course. The shops sells some beautiful work, including jewellery and ornaments, all of which is made onsite. Discounts available.
Tom’s SilverJEWELLERY
(%0274-372818; Jl Ngeski Gondo 60; h10am-5pm)
With an extensive selection of handcrafted silverware and some superb large pieces, Tom’s also has a workshop where the labour-intensive process of working silver is demonstrated.
MD Moeljodihardjo Silver WorksJEWELLERY
(%0274-375063; Jl Kemasan, Kota Gede; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Rings, bracelets, earrings and other silver items are sold at this workshop outlet. It’s down a small alley off the main street.
BATIK BANDITS
Batik salesmen strike up conversations, pretending to be guides, and take the hapless visitor to a ‘fine-art student exhibition’ or a ‘government store’, when in fact there are no such official shops or galleries in town. Some of these salesmen hang around the kraton, where they tell would-be visitors that the kraton is closed or there are no performances. This is generally a prelude to an invitation to a ‘royal’ batik showroom instead.
The tourist board receives hosts of complaints about these on-commission hustlers and it’s having some effect. Approaches are now more discreet and the hard sell in store has vanished to the point of leaving the genuine customer clueless about what to buy.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
A Yogya is a safe city but smooth-talking batik salesmen can be an irritation.
A Some becak drivers are in on the scam, offering ‘special rates’ of 1200Rp for one hour with an obligatory visit to a batik showroom.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Ludira Husada Tama Hospital (%0274-530 5300; www.rsludirahusadatama.com; Jl Wiratama 4; h24hr)
MONEY
BNI Bank (map; %0274-376287; Jl Trikora I; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) is opposite the main post office. Mulia (map; %0274-547688; www.muliamoneychanger.co.id; Jl Malioboro 60, Inna Garuda Hotel; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) has the best money-changing rates in Yogya, and changes euros, pounds, Australian, Canadian and US dollars, and Swiss francs.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Yogyakarta’s tourist information office (map; %0274-566000; ticmalioboro@yahoo.com; Jl Malioboro 16; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; W) is the country’s best organised, with delightful, helpful staff, free maps and good transport information. A number of publications (including a calendar of events and a great map) are available, and there’s a booking service for transport, local attractions and performances.
Yogyes.com (www.yogyes.com) is an excellent portal to the city and Central Java.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Great Tours is good for sunrise tours, bus and minibus tickets, chartered transport and tours to Borobudur, Bromo and Ijen. Other reliable companies are Angkasa Trans and Jogja Trans.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Yogyakarta Adisucipto International Airport (www.yogyakartaairport.com; Jl Raya Solo, Km9) has international connections to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, plus many domestic connections.
AirAsia (%0804 133 3333; www.airasia.com) flies to Singapore, KL, Jakarta, Medan and Bali. Garuda (map; %0274-558474; www.garuda-indonesia.com; Jl Malioboro 60, Hotel Inna Garuda) links Yoyga with Balikpapan, Bali and Jakarta. Lion Air (%021-6379 8000; www.lionair.co.id) flies to Bali, Lombok, Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Balikpapan and Banjarmasin. Sriwijaya Air (map; %0274-414777; www.sriwijayaair.co.id; Jl Sultan Agung 54) flies to Balikpapan, Jakarta and Surabaya.
It’s worth noting that Solo’s Adi Sumarmo International Airport also has international and domestic flights and is only around 60km from Yogya.
BUS
Yogya’s main bus terminal, Giwangan (Jl PS Giwangan Lor), is 5km southeast of the city centre; bus 3B connects the bus terminal with Yogyakarta train station and Jl Malioboro. Buses run from Giwangan to points all over Java, and also to Bali. Luxury buses are well worth the extra expense for long trips. Although it’s cheaper to buy tickets at the bus terminal, it’s much more convenient to book through ticket agents along Jl Mangkubumi, Jl Sosrowijayan or Jl Prawirotaman. These agents can also arrange hotel pick-ups.
For Prambanan (3500Rp), city bus 1A leaves regularly from Jl Malioboro. Buses to/from Borobudur (25,000Rp, every 30 minutes, 1¼ hours) depart from the Jombor terminal (Jl Magelang). This terminal can be reached with Trans Jogja bus 3A from Jl Malioboro to Jl Ahmad Dahlan, and then bus 2B for Jombor.
MINIBUS
Minibuses run to all major cities from Yogya. Prices are similar to air-conditioned buses. Journeys of more than four hours can be cramped – trains and buses offer more comfort. Due to traffic patterns, it’s much faster to get to Solo, Surabaya or Probolinggo by train.
Sosrowijayan and Prawirotaman agents sell tickets or they can be bought direct from the minibus companies; these include Rahayu Persada (map; %0274-544258; Jl Diponegoro 15), Joglosemar (%0274-623700; www.joglosemarbus.com; Jl Magelang Km7), DayTrans (map; %0274-385990; www.daytrans.co.id; Jl MT Haryono 1) and Sumber Alam. Destinations served include Semarang (60,000Rp to 85,000Rp, four hours), Solo (55,000Rp), Surabaya (90,000Rp), Malang (120,000Rp) and Wonosobo (70,000Rp, 3½ hours) for Dieng. For Pangandaran (90,000Rp, seven to nine hours), Budiman Bus (www.budimanbus.com) has five services daily, while Estu Trans (%0812 2679 2456, 0274-668 4567; Jl Wates Km4.5) (from 85,000Rp) has a departure at 9am and 8pm.
TRAIN
Centrally located, Yogyakarta train station (www.kai.id/ticket.com; Jl Pringgokusuman) handles most long-distance destinations. Economy-class trains also depart from and arrive at Lempuyangan station, 1km to the east, including the morning trains to Probolinggo and Banyuwangi.
TRANSPORT FROM YOGYAKARTA
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bandung | air-con 140,000 | 10 | 3 daily |
| Borobudur | normal 25,000-35,000 | 1½ | every 30min |
| Denpasar | air-con 325,000 | 19 | 2-3 daily |
| Jakarta | normal/air-con 210,000/270,000 | 12 | 10-12 daily |
Train
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bandung | 180,000–370,000 | 7½-8½ | 6 daily |
| Banyuwangi | 94,000 | 14 | 1 daily |
| Sidareja (for Pangandaran) | 88,000–320,000 | 3½ | 2 daily |
| Jakarta | 350,000–430,000 | 7½-8 | 12 daily |
| Malang | 175,000–430,000 | 7-8 | 6 daily |
| Probolinggo | 70,000-325,000 | 8½-9 | 1 daily |
| Solo | 50,000–350,000 | 1 | numerous |
| Surabaya | 70,000-300,000 | 4¼-5¼ | 8 daily |
8Getting Around
ARRIVING IN YOGYAKARTA
Yogyakarta Adisucipto International Airport Situated 10km east of the centre, the airport is very well connected to the city by public transport. Bus 1A (3500Rp) connects the airport with main street, Jl Malioboro. Pramek trains stop at the airport’s Maguwo station. Rates for taxis from the airport to the city centre are currently fixed at 150,000Rp.
Giwangan Bus Terminal Located 5km southeast of the city centre, the bus terminal is connected to Yogyakarta Train Station and Jl Malioboro by bus 3B.
Yogyakarta Train Station Centrally located, the city’s main train station is a short walk from Jl Malioboro or a 35,000Rp to 50,000Rp taxi ride to most other parts of town.
BECAK
Yogyakarta has an oversupply of becak (bicycle-rickshaws) and their owners tend to be a little aggressive for business. Nonetheless, these are a fun way to get around. Watch out for drivers who offer cheap hourly rates, unless you want to do the rounds of all the batik galleries that offer commission. A short trip costs about 20,000Rp to 30,000Rp.
BICYCLE
Bikes can be hired from many hotels. They cost from 25,000Rp to 30,000Rp for 24 hours (with a 10,000Rp deposit). Bikes should always be locked, even in rural suburbs.
BUS
Yogya’s reliable bus system, Trans Jogja, consists of modern air-conditioned buses running from 5.30am to 9pm on 11 routes around the city and as far away as Prambanan. The terminal for these buses is at Condong Catur (%0813 9277 7937; Jl Anggajaya 1). Tickets cost 3500Rp per journey. Trans Jogja buses only stop at the designated bus shelters. Bus 1A is a very useful service, running from Jl Malioboro past the airport to Prambanan. Trans Jogja route maps can be accessed at the tourist office.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Travel agencies on Jl Sosrowijayan and Jl Prawirotaman rent out cars with a driver for trips in the Yogya region for 500,000Rp to 600,000Rp per day including petrol. Few drivers speak English, but it can still be an excellent way to explore the area. One reliable company is Angkasa Trans (%0878 3850 9123, 0812 1594 7241; 500,000Rh per 12hr day in Yogya, from 950,000Rp per 24hr day in Central Java), another is Jogja Trans.
Motorbikes cost around 50,000Rp to 90,000Rp per day and a deposit is generally required.
TAXI
Online ride-hailing apps Go-Jek (www.go-jek.com) and Grab (www.grab.com) are the cheapest, quickest and safest way to get around town. Metered taxis are also cheap, costing 30,000Rp for short trips and 60,000Rp for longer journeys, for example from Jl Prawirotaman to the airport. If you call any of the cab companies for a ride around town, the minimum fee is 30,000Rp. Jas Taxi (%0274-373737) is considered the most reliable.
BROMO BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
All kinds of buses are available to Gunung Bromo and these often continue on to Bali. As a rule of thumb, the smaller the bus, the less enjoyable the experience, as the route is inescapably long. It takes around 13 hours to Bromo and a minimum of 20 hours to Bali.
For those determined on the minibus option to Bromo (from 180,000Rp) there are a couple of scams to be aware of. Some operators, for example, terminate short of Cemoro Lawang (perhaps after a mysterious ‘breakdown’), dropping passengers off at an undesirable hostel on the mountain ascent. Purchasing a ticket from a reliable agent such as Great Tours, or online through Easy Book (www.easybook.com), and checking up-to-date information with other travellers on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) can help avoid such skulduggery.
Bromo can also be reached by train via Probolinggo, departing Yogyakarta train station several times daily (70,000Rp to 315,000Rp, 8½ to nine hours). From Probolinggo, there’s a shuttle bus or a taxi to Cemoro Lawang (the gateway village for Mt Bromo) costs around 400,000Rp.