East Java
East Java (Jawa Timur) is a wild, rolling region of dizzying peaks, smoking volcanoes and unspoilt panoramas. Dotted across this landscape you’ll discover ancient temples being swallowed by a riot of vegetation, national parks where growls, barks, and squawks echo from the undergrowth, and stunning beaches with world-class surfing.
For most visitors, though, East Java is all about raw volcanic power and the landscapes created by these unpredictable mountains of fire. Nowhere is more synonymous with this than the sublime Bromo-Tengger Massif region, with its puffing volcanic giants and inspiring sunrises. Further east, the Ijen Plateau, with its crater lake and brave sulphur miners, is equally captivating.
Nature hasn’t got it all its own way in East Java, though. The regional capital, Surabaya, is a booming, fast-paced city, which constantly excites, while smaller Malang, which is ringed by ancient Hindu temples, seems somehow more laid-back and genteel.
8Getting There & Away
The main gateway to the region is the booming city of Surabaya. The busy airport here receives flights from across Indonesia as well as international flights from surrounding Southeast Asian nations. Malang also has good flight connections with other Indonesian cities.
One of the most popular ways to arrive in or leave East Java is by taking one of the frequent ferries running between Bali and Banyuwangi.
Frequent trains link Surabaya with cities in central and western Java. There are also a few daily trains between Malang and Yogyakarta. All bigger towns in East Java have good bus connections with cities elsewhere in Java.
Surabaya
%031 / Pop 2.84 million
Surabaya is like a bottle of wine: it gets better the more you get to know it. Give it time and you’ll discover that Surabaya has many quixotic corners of interest. Its historic Arab Quarter is a fascinating labyrinth of lanes, and the city has one of Indonesia’s biggest Chinatowns and some impressive, though disintegrating, Dutch buildings.
Having said all this, initial impressions aren’t likely to be great. Polluted, congested and business-driven, Surabaya isn’t a pedestrian-friendly city. Just crossing the eight-lane highways that rampage through the centre is a challenge in itself, and against the calm of rural East Java, it is pandemonium writ large.
For most foreign visitors, the city is merely a transport hub. For locals, Surabaya is closely linked to the birth of the Indonesian nation, as it was here that the battle for independence began. To them, Surabaya is Kota Pahlawan (City of Heroes).
Surabaya
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
1Sights
Exploring north Surabaya from a sightseeing bus is a lot of fun, and also free. The House of Sampoerna has a Surabaya Heritage Track, a tram-style bus that leaves the factory three times daily (Tuesday to Sunday) to take in the sights of Chinatown and the Arab Quarter, plus visit cottage industries (such as a noodle factory). The route changes from time to time; check the website for details. It’s essential to book in advance, particularly on weekends.
In May 2018 a series of terrorist bomb attacks hit Surabaya, which left 25 people dead (including the suicide bombers – some of whom were children). At the time of research, the city was calm and there were no specific warnings about visiting.
1Old City
Even though much of Surabaya’s historic centre is literally falling to pieces, the old city easily wins the Most Attractive Neighbourhood prize. With crumbling Dutch architecture – including the stunning old governor’s residence (map Google map; Jl Gubernur Suryo 7) – a souk-like Arab Quarter and strong Chinese influences, it’s by far the most atmospheric part of Surabaya to explore.
From the old city you can head north to the Kalimas harbour, where brightly painted pinisi (Makassar or Bugis schooners) from Sulawesi and Kalimantan unload their wares.
1Arab Quarter
A warren of narrow lanes, Surabaya’s Arab Quarter has the atmosphere and appearance of a Middle Eastern medina, with stalls selling prayer beads, peci (black Muslim felt hats) and other religious paraphernalia. All alleys lead to the Mesjid Ampel (map Google map; Jl Ampel Suci) 
F, the most sacred mosque in Surabaya. Behind the mosque pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at the grave of Sunan Ampel (1401–81 AD), one of the nine saints credited with introducing Islam to Java.
oHouse of SampoernaMUSEUM
(map Google map; %031-353 9000; www.houseofsampoerna.com; Jl Taman Sampoerna; 
h9am-7pm) F
Undoubtedly the city’s best-presented attraction, the House of Sampoerna is the home of one of Indonesia’s most famous kretek cigarette manufacturers (now owned by US giant Altria, formerly Philip Morris). Whatever you think about the tobacco industry, this factory and museum make a fascinating place to visit. The building itself is a wonderful 19th-century Dutch structure, originally an orphanage but later converted into a theatre (indeed, Charlie Chaplin once dropped by).
1Chinatown
East of Jembatan Merah is Surabaya’s Chinatown, with hundreds of small businesses and warehouses. Becak and hand-pulled carts are still the best way to transport goods through the crowded, narrow streets. Pasar Pabean (map Google map) is a sprawling, darkly lit market, where you can buy everything from Madurese chickens to Chinese crockery.
Further east, near the canal, the stunningly atmospheric Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong temple (map Google map; Klenteng Hong Tiek Hian Temple; Jl Dukuh) is primarily Buddhist, but has a variety of Confucian and Taoist altars if you can see them through the plumes of incense smoke.
Jembatan MerahBRIDGE
Originally the old city was divided along ethnic lines, with Europeans on the west side of the Kali Mas river and Chinese, Arabs and Javanese on the east bank. Jembatan Merah is a famous bridge that connected the two halves of the city; it also saw fierce fighting during Indonesia’s battle for independence. Jl Jembatan Merah, running parallel to the canal, is a grungy replica of Amsterdam, but worthy (although run-down) examples of Dutch architecture can be seen here.
1Other Areas
Masjid al AkbarMOSQUE
(Jl Masjid Agung Timur I) F
Perhaps the most impressive modern mosque in Indonesia. You’ll probably get a glimpse of Masjid al Akbar’s magnificent array of bulbous watery-turquoise-tiled domes as you exit the city. Staff are happy to show visitors around and will accompany you up the elevator to the top of the freestanding ottoman-style minaret, which offers spectacular views.
Monumen Kapal SelamLANDMARK
(map Google map; %031-549 0410; Jl Pemuda; 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Surabaya’s foremost stretch of renovated waterside real estate centres on the iron hulk that is Pasopati, a massive Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. You can poke around the horribly cramped interior, peek through the periscope and even climb into the torpedo tubes. It’s in a small landscaped park near a couple of cafes popular with young smoochers.
CCourses
Rumah BahasaLANGUAGE
(map Google map; %031-535 8856; http://rumahbahasa.surabaya.go.id; Jl Gubernur Suryo 15; h7pm Fri)
If you’re around on a Friday evening, drop in to this language centre to get a free 1½-hour Bahasa Indonesia language lesson, an initiative set up by the local government. You’ll need to bring your passport with you.
4Sleeping
There are a few options, but for a city its size Surabaya lacks decent budget places. High-standard, low-priced midrange accommodation choices are everywhere, and there are also some excellent deals available in the luxury-hotel sector, with rooms starting at US$40 for four-star hotels.
Krowi InnHOSTEL$
(%0853 3035 1800; www.krowiinn.com; Jl Ciliwung 66; dm incl breakfast 134,999Rp, d from 249,000Rp; 
n
a
i
W)
With unusually comfortable beds, and a surgical approach to cleanliness, this hostel, down in the southern part of the city, gets all the basics right, but where it really excels is with the warmth of welcome. There are six-bed dorms or comfy double rooms. Breakfast is fairly basic. Staff organise good, cheap Bromo tours.
The HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0812 3517 4233; Jl Simpang Dukuh 38-40; dm incl breakfast 120,000Rp; aW)
The simplicity of its name is perhaps reflective of its genius. Rather than bells and whistles, it sticks to the basic principles of what tourists want: cleanliness, comfortable dorm beds, friendly management and a convenient location. Hence it gets rave reviews across the board. The one small niggle is that there are a lot of beds in each dorm.
Hotel PaviljoenHOTEL$
(map Google map; %031-534 3449; www.hotelpaviljoen.com/id; Jl Genteng Besar 94-98; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 148,000/198,000Rp; aW)
A respite from Surabaya’s manic streets, this venerable Dutch colonial villa (c 1917) retains a twinkle of charm and grandeur. Rooms are basic and spartan, but they’re clean and have some lovely touches, including Mediterranean-style shuttered windows. The location could not be better. Pay the extra rate for the bigger room and hot water. Staff can arrange tours of the region.
ArtotelHOTEL$$
(%031-568 9000; www.artotelindonesia.com; Jl Dr Soetomo 79–81; r from 400,000Rp; 
paW)
Someone went to town when they designed this aggressively artsy hotel. We love the foyer area with its melting wax-like columns, the graffiti in the public areas and the cartoon-like art in the bedrooms. Best thing is that all the artworks were produced by emerging local talent. Comfortable, clean and good value.
MaxOne Hotel@TidarDESIGN HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %031-9900 1877; www.maxonehotels.com; Jl Tidar 5; d from 330,000Rp; aW)
What Surabaya lacks in budget guesthouses, it makes up for in cool, arty and affordable chain hotels. One such example is this reliable budget chain, which is decked out with plenty of colour and flair. Rooms come equipped with comfortable beds, cable TV, fast wi-fi and icy air-con. It also has a cool rooftop bar, smart restaurants, and room service if you want a night in.
MercureHOTEL$$
(%031-562 3000; www.mercure.com; Jl Raya Darmo 68-78; r from 480,000Rp; aiW
s)
An excellent choice for those in the market for a quality business-class hotel. The Mercure has first-class facilities, including an idyllic palm-fringed pool area. It also has a decent gym and a spa. Rooms are modern, spacious and good value, though the cheaper options lack wow factor. Staff are efficient and helpful.
oHotel Majapahit SurabayaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %031-545 4333; www.hotel-majapahit.com; Jl Tunjungan 65; r/ste from 1,066,000/1,275,000Rp; aiWs)
This landmark colonial hotel exudes class and heritage, with colonnaded courtyards, fountains, verdant greenery and a gorgeous pool area (though it’s located on a busy road, so some background traffic noise bleeds into the scene). Rooms, some with private terraces overlooking the gardens, are beautifully presented with paintings of old Indoneisa on the walls and lots of polished-wood furnishings.
Bumi SurabayaHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %031-531 1234; www.bumisurabaya.com; Jl Basuki Rahmat 106-128; r from 1,200,000Rp; paWs)
A self-styled ‘city resort’; the rooms at this former Hyatt are all conservative stately elegance, but the gardens are an explosion of tropical vegetation and dazzling flowers. There’s also a fab swimming pool, which is the ideal place to end a day after exploring Surabaya’s sticky streets.
5Eating
You won’t be left hungry in Surabaya – there’s a huge array of eating options. Local dishes include rawon, a thick, black beef soup that tastes better than it sounds.
For cheap eats, Pasar Genteng has good night warungs. Late-night munchies can also be had at the offshoot of Jl Pemuda, opposite the Plaza Surabaya (map Google map; Jl Pemuda 33-37; h10am-9.30pm), which buzzes with food-stall (off Jl Pemuda; mains 10,000-20,000Rp; h8am-late) activity around the clock.
BU KrisINDONESIAN$
(%031-561 1010; Jl Abdul Wahab Siamin; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h10.30am-10pm)
With simple tiled walls, plastic-coated menus and chipped tables piled with plates of food, it’s not the looks that bring crowds of noisy locals to eat at this renowned classic, but the food. BU Kris is famous for its iga penyet, a traditional dish of beef ribs with sambal. You’ll struggle to find anywhere that does it better.
Soto Ambengan Pak Sadi AsliINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %031-532 3998; Jl Ambengan 2; soup 24,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
This dimly lit dive, filled with locals, is the original location of a chain of soto ayam warungs with branches across Surabaya. Short on noodles, long on shredded chicken, the broth brims with oil and turmeric and beautifully marinates the meat. Drop in a dollop of the fine sambal and you’ll feel nourished and satisfied. A local legend.
Ahimsa Vegan LoungeVEGETARIAN$
(map Google map; %031-535 0466; Jl Kusuma Bangsa 80; dishes 10,000-25,000Rp; h8am-10pm; 
v)
An elegant, upmarket vegetarian restaurant owned by a welcoming Indo-Chinese family, who serve delicious rice dishes (try nasi hainan, a mixed rice platter), salads and soups, including a vegetarian bakso. No MSG is used. As for the muzak…
Tunjungan PlazaFOOD HALL$
(map Google map; Jl Tunjungan; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
For an air-conditioned setting, Tunjungan Plaza has a colossal selection of squeaky-clean Asian and Western restaurants and cafes; the food court is on the 5th floor, and although it’s hardly top-notch grub, it’s fast, hygienic and reliable.
Pasar GentengMARKET$
(map Google map; Jl Genteng Besar; mains around 8000Rp; h7am-9pm)
For cheap eats, Pasar Genteng has a few good night warungs.
House of Sampoerna CaféINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %031-353 9000; Jl Taman Sampoerna; mains 30,000-82,000Rp; h10am-9pm; W)
This cafe is adjacent to the House of Sampoerna museum and occupies a gorgeous colonial structure complete with stained-glass windows and brash and diverse art works – a memorable spot for a meal. The menu is divided into East and West, with classic Indonesian-style nasi goreng and Singapore laksa, along with New Zealand steaks and fish and chips.
oDe Soematra 1910EUROPEAN$$$
(map Google map; %031-501 0666; www.de-soematra.com; Jl Sumatera 75; mains 65,000-110,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm)
Put on your posh frock to come to this highly regarded restaurant. It’s set inside a renovated colonial mansion with 6m-high ceilings, chandeliers and carved wooden drinks counters (with sherry decanters, of course). The food, which is modern Italian, is as memorable as the setting and includes treats such as mushroom cappuccino with lace truffle oil, and pan-fried baby lobster.
oCitrus LeeFUSION$$$
(%031-561 5192; Jl Kutai 12; mains 400,000-600,000Rp; h6-10pm Tue-Sun)
At Citrus Lee the food is art, and every dish is delicately painted onto a plate. The chef-owner trained in Paris, and the French influence seeps into many of his dishes. For most people menu highlights are the starters (think foie gras with shrimps), or the steaks – which are easily the best in the city.
oLa RucolaITALIAN$$$
(%031-567 8557; www.larucola.asia; Jl Dr Soetomo 51; mains 145,000-220,000Rp; h10.30am-11.30pm)
A delightful Italian bistro serving upmarket Surabaya with homemade pastas, imported steaks, wood-fired pizzas, Italian sausage, oyster mushrooms and more. It also does a range of perfectly grilled seafood. The wine-by-the-glass selection is thin, but the bottle list is quite reasonable. It feels quite classy without being stuffy.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Though Surabaya does not have much of a drinking culture, if you look hard enough, you’ll find restaurants, bars and clubs that serve alcoholic drinks and have live music.
Loveshack SkybarROOFTOP BAR
(map Google map; %031-9900 1877; http://loveshackskybar.business.site; 7th fl MaxOne Hotel@Tidar, Jl Tidar 5; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; W)
On the top floor of the designer MaxOne hotel is this cool rooftop bar that’s the perfect spot to enjoy a balmy evening with a cold drink in hand. There’s live music most nights and a menu of international and Indonesian cuisine (mains 35,000Rp to 63,000Rp).
ColorsPUB
(map Google map; %031-503 0562; Jl Sumatera 81; hfrom 5pm)
Popular with all, this large upmarket pub-club, which has been going for years, has live music and a DJ every night. There’s a full bar, but drinks are expensive. It doesn’t get going until after 9pm.
3Entertainment
Cinema complexes are found all around the city.
Tunjungan 21CINEMA
(map Google map; www.21cineplex.com; Jl Tunjungan, Tunjungan Plaza)
This large cinema complex, inside the Tunjungan Plaza mall, shows recent Hollywood releases in English as well as a massive array of Asian flicks. Good sound quality.
7Shopping
Tunjungan PlazaMALL
(map Google map; Jl Basuki Rahmat; h10am-10pm)
A virtual city within a city, the massive, multi-layered, multi-building Tunjungan Plaza is easily one of the city’s biggest and best shopping malls. It covers a whopping 16 hectares!
8Information
Tourist Information Centre (%031-534 0444; Jl Gubernur Suryo 15; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun) Has helpful English-speaking staff, and can offer plenty of leaflets, a map of the city and also a file with good details about backpacker accommodation and up-to-date transport schedules and prices.
Jl Pemuda has plenty of banks, as does Tunjungan Plaza.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Surabaya Juanda International Airport (www.surabayaairport.com) is Indonesia’s third busiest and is used by more than 20 airlines. There are international connections to cities in Asia and numerous domestic flights.
BOAT
Surabaya is an important port and a major transport hub for ships to the other islands. Boats depart from Tanjung Perak harbour; bus P1 from outside Tunjungan Plaza heads here. There’s no fixed schedule, but Pelni ships sail to Makassar in Sulawesi roughly twice a week (economy/1st class from 272,000/846,000Rp), Pontianak in Kalimantan roughly every 10 days (economy 326,000Rp), and Jakarta weekly (economy 240,000Rp). Head to the Pelni ticket office (%031-329 3197, national 021-162; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Pahlawan 112; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) for more information.
BUS
Surabaya’s main bus terminal, called Purabaya (or Bungurasih), is 13km south of the city centre. It’s reasonably well organised, and computer monitors display bus departure times; however, watch out for pickpockets. Crowded Damri city buses (bus P1) run between the bus terminal and the Jl Tunjungan/Jl Pemuda intersection in the city centre. A metered taxi costs around 70,000Rp, and an online taxi around 50,000Rp.
Buses from Purabaya head to points all over Java, Madura and Bali. Most buses on long-distance routes, such as to Solo, Yogyakarta, Bandung and Denpasar, are night buses that leave in the late afternoon or evening. Bookings can be made at Purabaya bus terminal and travel agencies in the city centre (expect a mark-up). The most convenient bus agents are those on Jl Basuki Rahmat.
All buses heading south of Surabaya on the toll road get caught up in heavy traffic around the Gembol junction. During rush hour this can add an hour to your journey.
Due to horrendous traffic jams, trains are a much better option than buses.
MINIBUS
Door-to-door travel minibuses are not normally a good way of travelling from Surabaya. The city is so big that you can spend two hours just collecting passengers from their hotels and homes before you even get started. Destinations and sample fares include Malang (100,000Rp), Solo (140,000Rp), Yogyakarta (150,000Rp) and Semarang (150,000Rp to 160,000Rp). Try the agencies along Jl Basuki Rahmat.
TRAIN
From Jakarta, trains taking the fast northern route via Semarang arrive at the Pasar Turi train station (%031-534 5014) southwest of Kota train station. Trains taking the southern route via Yogyakarta, and trains from Banyuwangi, arrive at Gubeng train station (%031-503 3115). Gubeng train station is much more central and sells tickets for all trains. There are only very infrequent, very slow economy-class trains to Malang.
TRANSPORT FROM SURABAYA
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP; ECONOMY/AIR-CON) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Banyuwangi | 46,000/95,000 | 7 |
| Kudus | 28,000/85,000 | 8 |
| Malang | 8500/30,000 | 2-3 |
| Probolinggo | 20,000/30,000 | 2½ |
| Semarang | 35,000/90,000 | 9 |
| Solo | 31,000/75,000 | 7½ |
| Sumenep | 19,000/68,500 | 4½ |
Train
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Banyuwangi | 56,000-200,000 | 6¼-7¼ | 4 |
| Jakarta | 150,000-500,000 | 9-11¼ | 6 |
| Probolinggo | 29,000-275,000 | 2 | 6 |
| Semarang | 49,000-360,000 | 3½-4 | 8 |
| Solo | 100,000-350,000 | 3¾-4½ | 6-8 |
| Yogyakarta | 100,000-300,000 | 4¼-5¼ | 8 |
8Getting Around
ARRIVING IN SURABAYA
Surabaya Juanda International Airport Bluebird taxis cost around 100,000Rp to/from the city centre, including toll-road fees. Damri buses (25,000Rp) run from the airport to Purabaya bus terminal; from there, change to the P1 bus to the city centre or the A2 bus to the Gubeng train station. Both cost 5000Rp.
Purabaya Bus Terminal Accessed by Damri city buses (bus P1) from Jl Tunjungan/Jl Pemuda intersection in the city centre. A taxi costs around 60,000Rp.
Gubeng Train Station Centrally located, so a taxi to the centre (around 50,000Rp) or walking to your accommodation is your best bet.
Pasar Turi Train Station Walk to Jl Bubutan. From there take a Damri bus to the city centre. By taxi it’s around 35,000Rp to 55,000Rp to the centre.
BUS
Surabaya has an extensive city bus network, with normal buses (6000Rp) and patas buses (express; 5000Rp per journey). Watch out for pickpockets, as buses can be crowded. One of the most useful services is the patas P1 bus, which runs from Purabaya bus terminal into the city along Jl Basuki Rahmat. In the reverse direction, catch it on Jl Tunjungan.
TAXI
Surabaya has air-conditioned metered taxis and online taxis such as Grab, Go-Jek and Uber. Flagfall is 7500Rp; reckon on around 25,000Rp for a trip of around 4km. Bluebird taxis (%031-372 1234; www.bluebirdgroup.com) are the most reliable and can be called in advance. They also make long-haul trips to Malang and beyond.
Trowulan
One of the great archaeological sites of East Java, Trowulan is a beautiful collection of soaring 13th-century red-brick temples spread over manicured grounds. Every bit as impressive as many better-known Javanese temple complexes, Trowulan is thought to have once been the capital city of the Majapahit Empire. Despite the site’s great historical importance, it’s almost criminally overlooked by many time-pressed foreign visitors. However, it’s easy to make a day trip from Surabaya or even slot a visit in as you travel between that city and the Bromo area.
History
Trowulan was once the capital of the largest Hindu empire in Indonesian history. Founded by Singosari prince Wijaya in 1294, it reached the height of its power under Hayam Wuruk (1350–89), who was guided by his powerful prime minister, Gajah Mada. During this time, Majapahit received tribute from most of the regions encompassing present-day Indonesia and even parts of the Malay Peninsula.
Its wealth was based on its control of the spice trade and the fertile rice-growing plains of Java. The religion was a hybrid of Hinduism – with worship of the deities Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma – and Buddhism, but Islam was tolerated, and Koranic burial inscriptions found on the site suggest that Javanese Muslims resided within the royal court. The empire came to a catastrophic end in 1478 when the city fell to the north-coast power of Demak, forcing the Majapahit elite to flee to Bali and opening Java up to the Muslim conquest.
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the great British explorer and governor-general of Java, was the first Westerner to encounter Trowulan in 1815, and though it was choked in forest, he described the ruins as ‘this pride of Java’.
1Sights
The ruins are scattered over a large area around the modern village of Trowulan, 12km from Mojokerto. The Majapahit temples were mainly built from red-clay bricks that quickly crumbled. This means that many have been rebuilt and are relatively simple, but they do give a good idea of what was once a great city. As the temples are spread over a such a large area, it’s best to either hire a becak or come in a car.
Some of the most interesting ruins include the gateway of Bajang Ratu, with its strikingly sculpted kala heads; the Tikus Temple (Queen’s Bath – used for ritual bathing and cleansing); and the 13.7m-high Wringinlawang Gate. The Pendopo Agung is an open-air pavilion built by the Indonesian army. Two kilometres south of the pavilion, the Troloyo cemetery is the site of some of the oldest Muslim graves found in Java, the earliest dating from AD 1376.
Trowulan is refreshingly hawker-free, though as there’s a distinct lack of information on site, you may want to hire a freelance guide (there’s often one waiting at the museum). Expect to pay around 100,000Rp for a half-day.
Close to the Trowulan site is a modern, but interesting, giant sleeping Buddha statue (3000Rp).
oTrowulan MuseumMUSEUM
(%0321-494313; 50,000Rp, incl entry to ruins; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
One kilometre from the main Surabaya–Solo road, the impressive Trowulan Museum houses superb examples of Majapahit sculpture and pottery from East Java. Pride of place is held by the splendid statue of Kediri’s King Airlangga as Vishnu astride a huge Garuda, taken from Belahan. It should be your first port of call for an understanding of Trowulan and Majapahit history, and it includes descriptions of the other ancient ruins in East Java.
8Getting There & Away
Trowulan can be visited as a day trip from Surabaya, 60km to the northeast. From Surabaya’s Purabaya bus terminal, take a Jombang bus (14,000Rp, 1½ hours), which can drop you at the turn-off to the museum; a becak tour of the sites will cost around 50,000Rp for a half-day excursion after bargaining.
Hiring a private car and driver in Surabaya for a day trip to the site costs around 500,000Rp.
Pulau Madura
%0328 / Pop 3,630,000
The flat, sun-blasted and deeply traditional island of Madura may now be connected to Java by Indonesia’s longest bridge, but the character of the people and scenery feel like somewhere far away in time and geography.
Traditional culture is strong (the sarong and peci are the norm), the people are deeply Islamic (virtually all children attend religious schools called pesantren) and the island is famous for the colourful pageantry of its popular annual bull races.
Madura’s southern side is lined with shallow beaches and cultivated lowland, while the northern coast alternates between rocky cliffs and great rolling sand-dune beaches, the best of which is at Lombang. At the extreme east are a tidal marsh and vast tracts of salt around Kalianget. The interior is riddled with limestone slopes, and agriculture is limited. Sumenep is the main town, and unless the bull races are on, it attracts few tourists.
1Sights & Activities
There are many fine villas along the route between Sumenep and Kalianget. About halfway between the two towns are the ruins of a Dutch fort dating from 1785, and a cemetery. The Kalianget region is a centre for salt production – you’ll see great mounds of the white powder piled up for export if you pass by in the dry season.
Fishing villages such as Ambunten and Tanjung Bumi and their brightly painted perahu (boats) dot the north coast. The coast is lined with beaches; few are particularly wonderful, though the turquoise shallows do make a stunning contrast with the wind-rattled, white-stone shore. Pantai Lombang, 30km northeast of Sumenep, has stunning white sands. Locals harvest tree saplings for the bonsai market and sell coconuts to visitors. At Labuhan Mangrove Educational Park (Labuhan; h7.30am-6pm) F a raised wooden walkway runs through the forest, allowing you look for some of the unusual birds, insects, fish and, hopefully, mudskippers that rely on mangroves.
Buses link all the towns and villages along the north coast.
8Getting There & Away
Wings Air (www.lionair.co.id) has daily flights between Surabaya and Sumenep. The flight takes 35 minutes.
Buses go directly from Surabaya’s Purabaya bus terminal via Bangkalan and Pamekasan through to Sumenep (normal/patas 40,000/60,000Rp, four hours) roughly every hour. Buses also run to Sumenep (passing through Surabaya) from Banyuwangi (via Probolinggo), Malang, Semarang and Jakarta.
From East Java there’s a daily ferry (%0328-663054) from Jangkar harbour (near Asembagus) to Kalianget (60,000Rp, five to six hours) in Madura. At research time it departed Jangkar at 1pm and from Kalianget at 8am. Schedules are weather dependent and change regularly; contact the Sumenep tourist office to check times. Buses run from Situbondo to Jangkar. To get to Kalianget, take minibus ‘O’ (3000Rp, 20 minutes) from Sumenep.
Sumenep
%0328 / Pop 101,000
Sumenep, in the far east of the island, is a sleepy, refined town, with a Mediterranean air and quiet, lazy streets. By mid-afternoon the whole town seems to settle into a slow, collective siesta. With dozens of crumbling villas and a fine kraton (walled city palace) and mosque, it is easily Madura’s most interesting town.
1Sights
KratonPALACE
(map Google map; 10,000Rp; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat) Occupied by the present bupati (regent) of Sumenep, the grand kraton and its Taman Sari (map Google map; Pleasure Garden; 2000Rp; h7am-5pm)
date back to 1750. The bathing pools once used by the royal women are still here, though they’re no longer in use. There’s also a small museum with an interesting collection of Madurese furniture, stone sculptures and binggel (heavy silver anklets worn by Madurese women). All were possessions of Madurese royals once upon a time.
Mesjid JamikMOSQUE
(map Google map; Alun-Alun; h24hr) F
Looking more like an extravagant city gateway than a mosque, Sumenep’s 18th-century Mesjid Jamik is notable for its three-tiered Meru-style roof, Chinese porcelain tiles and ceramics.
Asta Tinggi CemeteryCEMETERY
(h24hr)
The tombs of the royal family are at the Asta Tinggi Cemetery, which looks out over the town from a peaceful hilltop 3km northwest of the centre. The main royal tombs are decorated with carved and brightly painted panels; two depict dragons said to represent the colonial invasion of Sumenep. At weekends there’s often a crowd of locals here paying their respects.
Royal Carriage-House MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; 2000Rp incl in Taman Sari entry; h7am-5pm)
Opposite the kraton, the Royal Carriage-House Museum contains the throne of Queen Tirtonegoro, a Chinese-style bed, which is reputedly 300 years old, and a number of rather elaborate horse carriages.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of good, inexpensive eateries. Be sure to order the local speciality sate kambing (goat satay), which is often served with raw shallots and rice cakes. Soto madura, a spicy soup with nuts, lemon grass and beef, is another speciality. Good places to try these dishes include Rumah Makan Kartini (map Google map; %0328-662431; Jl Diponegoro 83; mains 12,000-20,000Rp; h8am-9pm) and Rumah Makan 17 Agustus (map Google map; %0328-662255; Jl Sudirman 34; mains from 14,000-25,000Rp; h8am-8pm).
Hotel C-1HOTEL$
(map Google map; %0328-674368; Jl Sultan Abdurrahman; r 125,000-400,000Rp; aW)
The smartest place in town, this modern hotel has a good selection of simple rooms decorated with hand-carved wooden furniture. It’s clean, mattresses are springy and the linen is fresh. It’s about 2km southeast of the centre.
8Information
Tourist Office (%0328-667148, 0817 933 0648; kurniadi@consultant.com; Jl Sutomo 5; h7am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Run by enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, who can help out with most matters relating to both Sumenep and the island.
BCA (Jl Trunojoyo; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) and BNI (Jl Trunojoyo; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) banks are on Jl Trunojoyo; both offer currency exchange.
8Getting There & Away
Sumenep’s main bus terminal is on the southern side of town, a 10,000Rp becak (bicycle rickshaw) ride from the centre. Buses leave roughly hourly until 4pm for Surabaya’s Purabaya bus terminal (normal/patas 40,000/60,000Rp, four hours) and big cities across Java, including Malang. Bus agents along Jl Trunojoyo sell tickets. The Giling bus terminal for angkots heading north is right near the stadium, a short walk or becak ride from the centre. From Giling, minibuses go to Lombang, Slopeng, Ambunten and other north-coast destinations.
Malang
%0341 / Pop 887,450
With leafy, colonial-era boulevards and a breezy climate, Malang moves at a far more leisurely pace than the regional capital, Surabaya. It’s a cultured city with several important universities, and is home to a large student population. The central area is not too large and is quite walkable.
Established by the Dutch in the closing decades of the 18th century, Malang earned its first fortunes from coffee, which flourished on the surrounding hillsides. Today, the city’s colonial grandeur is quickly disappearing behind the homogeneous facades of more modern developments, but there’s still much to admire for now.
With a number of Hindu temples and sights outside the city, Malang makes an ideal base to explore this intriguing corner of East Java.
1Sights
The interior of the busy alun-alun (main public square) in front of Hotel Tugu Malang is a lovely and lively park, with a monument at the centre of a pond that is afloat with hundreds of lotus blossoms and surrounded by gorgeous spreading trees.
Across the main Surabaya road from the downtown area, the hazy, mystical and imposing silhouette of Mt Semeru looms over the wide avenue that is Jl Semeru. Gotta love symmetry.
Hotel Tugu MalangMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0341-363 891; www.tuguhotels.com/hotels/malang; Jl Tugu III; tour per person incl snacks 90,000Rp; h6pm)
Malang’s most impressive museum isn’t actually a museum at all, but a hotel: the boutique, four-star Hotel Tugu Malang, a showcase for its owner, arguably Indonesia’s foremost collector of Asian art and antiquities. The exhibits include 10th-century ceramics, jade carvings from the 13th century, Ming dynasty porcelain, Qing dynasty wood carvings and even the complete facade of a Chinese temple. English-speaking tours of the collection take place at 6pm; it’s complimentary for guests staying here.
Jalan Besar IjenAREA
Malang has some wonderful colonial architecture. Just northwest of the centre, Jl Besar Ijen is Malang’s millionaires’ row, a boulevard lined with elegant whitewashed mansions from the Dutch era. Many have been substantially renovated, but there’s still much to admire. On Sunday mornings it’s closed to traffic and a market is set up along here; in late May it becomes the setting for the city’s huge Malang Kembali festival.
Pasar BungaMARKET
(map Google map; h7am-5pm)
The flower market, Pasar Bunga, is pleasantly sited around a river valley and is the place to stroll in the morning.
TTours
Malang is a good place to set up a tour to Bromo; these are usually on the route that runs via Tumpang. Costs depend on numbers and transport, but two/three/four people can expect to pay about 850,000/750,000/650,000Rp per person for a sunrise tour in a 4WD (they usually leave at 1.30am). Options to continue the trip on to Ijen and then Ketapang harbour (for Bali) are also popular.
Trips to southern beaches and temples around Malang are also possible. If you want to create your own itinerary, a day’s car hire (with driver) starts at around 600,000Rp.
Wijaya Travel (%0341-325118; Jl Pajajaran 7) is a reliable agency that can arrange shuttles to Solo, Yogyakarta and Probolinggo.
A Day to WalkWALKING
(%0856 4956 3898; www.facebook.com/adaytowalkuklamtahes; by donation; hFri-Mon & Wed)
Fascinating half-day city tours run by an innovative local ‘pay what you think it’s worth’ tour company that gives a real insight into a non-touristy side of Malang. Tours run daily by reservation, except for Tuesday and Thursday.
Helios ToursTOURS
(map Google map; %0853 3404 4000, 0341-351801; www.heliostour.net; Jl Pattimura 37; h8am-9pm)
A well-organised operator with an incredible number of tour options, from standard day trips to Bromo to hardcore trekking expeditions to Gunung Semeru. Staff are switched-on and deal with lots of travellers. The three-day tours to the turtle-nesting grounds at Sukamade beach (3,449,000Rp) are a great way of visiting a little-known corner of Java.
Jona’s HomestayTOURS
(map Google map; %0341-324678; Jl Sutomo 4)
The owners of this homestay can organise tours to Bromo and around Malang; they also rent scooters to guests.
zFestivals & Events
Malang KembaliCULTURAL
Held in late May, Malang Kembali celebrates ludruk, an old-time music-hall tradition that was very popular in Java in the last century. Jl Besar Ijen, home to many wonderful old Dutch villas, is closed to traffic for five days, and there’s street theatre, live music, shows, and actors in period costumes. You can also taste traditional food and drinks.
4Sleeping
oKampong TouristHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0341-345797; www.kampongtourist.com; Hotel Helios, Jl Pattimura 37; s/d/tr dm 65,000/120,000/150,000Rp; W)
The owners of this superb backpacking place have fashioned an excellent hostel on the rooftop of Hotel Helios. Dorm beds are comfy (and interestingly include double and triple-sized beds), as are the bamboo gazebo-style rooms. It has a great shared showerblock and guest kitchen, too.
Huize Jon HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0818 386 300; Jl Majapahit; dm 70,000Rp; aW)
This hostel gets the basics right. There’s an immaculate, bright dorm featuring 14 pod-style beds with individual curtains giving a little extra privacy. The communal bathrooms are just as good, and there’s an atmospheric downstairs communal area where it’s easy to find travel buddies. Staff organise cheap Bromo and Ijen trips that get great feedback.
Jona’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0341-324678; Jl Sutomo 4; r from 150,000Rp; aW)
This long-running homestay in a colossal colonial villa is run by a sweet family. The location in an affluent neighbourhood is also convenient and quiet. Even though the rooms are aged, it’s still comfortable enough if you get the right room – some are definitely better than others, so ask to see a few before settling in.
Same HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0341-303 1999; Jl Pattimura 19; r incl breakfast from 375,000Rp; aW)
With its rather grand colonnaded Italianate facade and sparkling lobby, the strangely named Same Hotel flirts with tackiness. Fortunately, thanks to low prices and subtler-looking rooms that are also quiet, clean and comfortable, we’d say this is one of Malang’s better choices. Also comes with professional staff, fast wi-fi, cable TV, room service and inclusive buffet breakfast.
Hotel HeliosHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0341-362 741; Jl Pattimura 37; r with fan/air-con 200,000/350,000Rp; aW)
Helios has steadily upgraded the quality and prices of its accommodation in recent years. Behind the flash reception you’ll find a selection of bright, clean, comfortable rooms grouped around a rear garden (and cafe). Most rooms have a flat-screen TV, high ceiling and modern bathroom. The economy options are tiny and spartan. Helios Tours is based here.
Hotel Sahid MontanaHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0341-362751; www.sahidhotels.com; Jl Kahuripan 9; r from 350,000Rp)
A tiled, three-star indoor-outdoor inn serving mostly domestic tourists. Rooms are set on three floors around a garden gurgling with fountains. It’s a decent enough choice, and is popular with tour groups, but it doesn’t have a lot of character.
oHotel Tugu MalangBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0341-363891; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Tugu III; r/ste from 1,200,000/1,735,000Rp; aiWs)
For a real flavour of what Java has to offer, this remarkable luxury hotel, loaded with local character and genuine hospitality, sets the standard. It manages to be both laid-back and elegant. Owned by one of the foremost collectors of Indonesian and East Asian antiquities in the country, it doubles as a museum.
5Eating
In town there are a number of decent warungs serving tasty Indonesian dishes. For cheap eats head for Jl Agus Salim, which comes alive at night with local specialities such as nasi rawon (beef soup served with fried onion and rice) and bakso malang (meatball soup served with noodles and grilled fish).
Mie TomcatNOODLES$
(map Google map; %0812 3369 7450; Jl Trunijoyo 31; dishes 9000-13,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
A cool designer warung popular among young locals, with a Jenga-like exterior and cherry-wood furnishings inside and out. The staff speak little English but do know how to make some tasty noodle soup, ramen and mie goreng (fried noodles). Use the helpful chalkboard spice-meter to stretch your personal heat index.
Bebek GongINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0341-365055; Jl Cokroaminoto 2D; dishes 10,000-25,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
A dressed-up warung dangling with lovely rattan lanterns and lined with bamboo wallpaper, serving fried chicken and duck meals to the Malang masses. Platters come with raw cabbage and long beans on the side. Rice is 5000Rp extra.
Agung RestoINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0341-357061; Jl Basuki Rahmat 80; mains 10,000-18,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
This cheerful spot with plastic chairs and tables has tasty, inexpensive local food, including martabak (pancake-like meat, egg and vegetable dish), rice and fish dishes, plus great juices.
Toko OenINTERNATIONAL$
(map Google map; %0341-364052; Jl Basuki Rahmat 5; mains 28,000-67,000Rp; h8am-9.30pm)
Boasting an imposing 1930 art deco frontage, Toko Oen is a throwback to ye olde days, with rattan furniture, waiters in starched whites, and Sinatra on the stereo. It serves middling Indonesian fare and cheap steaks, but it’s the ice cream that, for some reason, is renowned among Indonesians. Don’t expect much. It’s all about the atmosphere here.
oMelatiINDONESIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0341-363891; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Tugu III; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; h24hr; W)
The Tugu hotel’s poolside restaurant is a romantic setting for a meal, with attentive staff to guide you through the delicious Indonesian and Chinese Peranakan options. Several mixed rice dishes stand out. You can get a Malang version that comes with veggies stewed in coconut milk and marinated beef. Or choose the turmeric pickles and chicken in coconut cumin sauce.
oThe LibraryINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0341-355487; Jl Baluran 2; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; h8am-11pm Sun-Fri, to midnight Sat)
With industrial-chic furnishings, shelves of books and graffiti wall art, this eye-catching cafe-restaurant, which is super-popular with local students, serves light Western-style meals such as Treasure Island, a delicious mix of salmon with mango salsa. It’s renowned for its coffee, smoothies and breakfasts, including runny poached eggs on toast. Also has decent burgers and pasta.
InggilINDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %0341-332110; Jl Gajahmada 4; mains 22,000-43,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
The delightfully eccentric Inggil is as much a museum or art gallery as a restaurant. Walls are lined with old photos, dozens of wayang kulit puppets stare vacantly at you as you tuck into the excellent traditional Javanese dishes, and if you’re lucky, a gamelan orchestra will provide a musical accompaniment.
KertanegaraINDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %0341-366203; www.kertanegararesto.com; Jl Kertanegara I; mains 25,000-80,000Rp; hnoon-11pm; v)
Occupying a large corner plot, this upmarket place has a garden terrace, strung with oh-so-many Christmas lights. Its enormous menu offers flavoursome European, Indonesian and Chinese food, with quite a good choice for vegetarians, and lots of seafood. Has occasional live music featuring syrup-voiced crooners.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Legi PaitCOFFEE
(map Google map; %0822 3081 5835; Jl Pattimura 24; h7am-1pm & 4pm-midnight; W)
A popular hang-out for the young and cool of Malang is this corner cafe with stained-wood furnishings. It serves a wide range of local coffees and infusions, juices and meals to an indie soundtrack.
Ben HouseCAFE
(map Google map; %0813 3433 9039; Jl Suropati 19; h4-10pm; W)
A key hang-out for young hipsters, this brickhouse cafe has a great feel. The downstairs interior is decorated with low-rise wood tables and bench seating, funky vintage bicycles and musical instruments. The chalkboard menu offers cold beer, fresh juices, coffee and tea, and there’s an inviting, alfresco upper deck.
3Entertainment
Taman Rekreasi SenaputraPERFORMING ARTS
(map Google map; Jl Brawijaya; 7000Rp, children 13yr & under 6000Rp; h8am-4pm)
Malang’s cultural and recreational park has a hectically busy swimming pool and children’s playground and some quirky events. Kuda lumping (horse trance) dances (7000Rp) are performed every Sunday morning at 10am.
The dancers ride rattan ‘horses’ then fall into a trance, writhing around on the ground with their eyes bulging. Still in a trance-like state, they perform assorted masochistic acts without any apparent harm, such as eating glass. The spectacle will not be to everyone’s taste. On a more sober note, wayang kulit (shadow puppet) shows are regularly held here (usually on the fourth Sunday of the month); the tourist office has the latest schedule.
8Information
Malang has plenty of banks; most are congregated along Jl Basuki Rahmat, including BCA (Jl Basuki Rahmat; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat).
Gunung Bromo National Park Head Office (%0341-491828; tn-bromo@malang.wasantara.net.id; Jl Raden Intan 6; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) A short way north of the city centre. Plenty of info on routes to and from the park.
Tourist Information Office (%0341-346231; Jl Basuki Rahmat; h8am-4pm) Helpful tourist office.
Tourist Information Kiosk (Alun-Alun; h8am-4pm) This small kiosk is staffed by students.
8Getting There & Away
Due to dangers driving on the sandy volcanic road, the shortcut to Bromo via the easterly route from Malang is only permissable for those who’ve signed up with a 4WD tour. If that’s you, you’re in for a treat as the route is spectacular. If you have your own vehicle, you’ll need to take the much longer and less interesting northerly route via Probolinggo.
For a reliable taxi company, use Citra (%0341-490555).
BUS & ANGKOT
Malang has three bus terminals. Arjosari (Jl Teluk Mandar), 5km northeast of town, is the main one with regular buses to Surabaya, Probolinggo and Banyuwangi. Long-distance buses to Solo, Yogyakarta, Denpasar and even Jakarta mostly leave in the early evening. Minibuses (called angkot or mikrolet locally) run from Arjosari to nearby villages such as Singosari and Tumpang.
Gadang bus terminal is 5km south of the city centre, and sends buses along the southern routes to destinations such as Blitar (25,000Rp, two hours).
Buses depart Landungsari bus terminal, 5km northwest of the city, to destinations west of the city, such as Batu (10,000Rp, 40 minutes).
Plenty of door-to-door travel companies operate from Malang, and hotels and travel agencies can book them. Wijaya Travel is a reliable agency and can arrange shuttles to Solo, Yogyakarta and Probolinggo.
Abimanyu Travel (%0341-304 1382, 0812 3007 1652; www.abimanyutravel.id) has minibuses to Surabaya (100,000Rp) that will drop you off at hotels in Surabaya or at the airport (thus saving the long haul from Surabaya’s bus terminal).
BUSES FROM MALANG
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Banyuwangi | 60,000-70,000 | 7 | 11am & 10pm |
| Denpasar | 140,000 incl ferry | 12 | 6pm |
| Jember | 23,000-40,000 | 4½ | every 90min |
| Probolinggo | 40,000 | 2½ | every 10min 5am-5pm |
| Solo | 110,000 | 10 | 8am & 7pm |
| Surabaya | 20,000-25,000 | 2½-3 | hourly |
| Yogyakarta | 150,000 | 11 | 8am & 7pm |
TRAIN
Malang train station is centrally located but not well connected to the main network. There are three daily trains to Yogyakarta (150,000Rp to 430,000Rp, eight hours) via Solo. There’s a train to Probolinggo (62,000Rp, 2¾ hours) leaving at 4pm. Surabaya (35,000Rp to 60,000Rp, two hours) is only served by very slow and crowded economy trains. There is also a daily service to Banyuwangi (62,000Rp, 7½ hours), where you can hop on a ferry to Bali.
8Getting Around
Mikrolet (small minibus taxis) run all over town. Most buzz between the bus terminals via the town centre. These are marked A–G (Arjosari to Gadung and return), A–L (Arjosari to Landungsari) or G–L (Gadang to Landungsari). Trips cost 4000Rp; or 8000Rp if you have a large bag.
Go-Jek online taxis and motorbikes offer a cheap means of getting around town.
Around Malang
The lush, palm-dappled rice and corn fields around Malang are scattered with evocative Hindu and Buddhist ruins, making for a fun half-day road trip.
1Sights
The Singosari temples lie in a ring around Malang and are mostly funerary temples dedicated to the kings of the Singosari dynasty (AD 1222–92), the precursors of the Majapahit kingdom.
Candi SingosariTEMPLE
(Jl Kertanegara 148; admission by donation; h7.30am-4pm)
Situated right in the village of Singosari, 12km north of Malang, this temple stands 500m off the main Malang–Surabaya road. One of the last monuments erected to the Singosari dynasty, it was built in 1304 in honour of King Kertanegara, the fifth and last Singosari king, who died in 1292 in a palace uprising.
Candi KidalTEMPLE
(Jl Candi Kidal; admission by donation; h7am-noon & 1-4pm)
Set in the village of Kidal, west of Tumpang, with houses rising all around, this graceful temple was built around 1260 as the burial shrine of King Anusapati (the second Singosari king, who died in 1248). Now 12m high, it originally topped 17m and is an example of east Javanese architecture. Its slender form has pictures of the Garuda (mythical man-bird) on three sides, plus bold, glowering kala (demonic faces often seen over temple gateways).
Candi SumberawanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(admission by donation; h7.30am-4pm)
This small, squat Buddhist stupa lies in the terraced, cultivated foothills of Gunung Arjuna, about 5km northwest of Singosari. It was built to commemorate the 1359 visit of Hayam Wuruk, the great Majapahit king. Within the temple grounds are a lingam stone and the crumbling remains of additional stupa, along with the remains of recent offerings.
But what makes the temple really special is the approach. You’ll walk from the main village road – a checkerboard of tarps layered with drying corn – down a 400m dirt path, which parallels a canal, and through rice fields until you reach the ruins. Young men use the canal for bathing, so don’t be surprised to see a naked body or two en route to the stupa. In Javanese culture it’s polite to avert your eyes – the boys will duck down into the water in fits of giggles as you pass. Opposite the temple is a spring – the source of the gurgling canal – where locals go to cool off on sweltering weekends.
Take an angkot (5000Rp) from Singosari pasar (market) on the highway to Desa Sumberawan, then walk 500m down the road to the canal and the dirt path.
Candi JagoTEMPLE
(Jajaghu; Jl Wisnuwardhana; admission by donation; h7.30am-4pm)
Along a small road near the market in Tumpang, 22km from Malang, Candi Jago was built between 1268 and 1280 and is thought to be a memorial to the fourth Singosari king, Vishnuvardhana. The temple has some interesting decorative carving from the Jataka and the Mahabharata, in the three-dimensional style of wayang kulit (shadow-puppet play), which is typical of East Java.
Purwodadi
A few kilometres north of Lawang on the road to Surabaya, the Kebun Raya Purwodadi (%0343-615 033; admission 25,000Rp, tours 15,000Rp; h7.30am-4pm) are expansive dry-climate botanical gardens. The 85 hectares are beautifully landscaped and contain over 3000 species, including 80 kinds of palm, a huge fern collection, a Mexican section, myriad orchids and many varieties of bamboo. The garden office to the south of the entrance has a map and leaflets. Air Terjun Cobanbaung is a high waterfall next to the gardens.
The gardens are easily reached; take any bus from Malang to Surabaya and ask to be dropped off at the entrance.
Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Reserve
This wild and little-known reserve includes the dormant volcano Gunung Arjuna (3339m), the semi-active Gunung Welirang (3156m) and the Lalijiwo Plateau on the northern slopes of Arjuna. Experienced and well-equipped hikers can walk from the resort town of Tretes to Selekta in two days, but you need a guide to go all the way. Alternatively, you can climb Welirang from Tretes or Lawang.
To get to the start of the hikes, take a bus to Pandaan (18,000Rp) from Malang or Surabaya and then a minibus to Tretes (10,000Rp).
Gunung Penanggungan
The remains of no fewer than 81 temples, dating from the 10th to 16th centuries, are scattered over the slopes of Gunung Penanggungan (1650m). This sacred Hindu mountain is said to be the peak of Mt Mahameru, which according to legend broke off and landed at its present site when Mt Mahameru was transported from India to Indonesia.
Historically this was a very important pilgrimage site for Hindus, and a few Javanese mystics, meditators and Hindus still visit the mountain today. Pilgrims make their way to the top of the mountain and stop to bathe in the holy springs adorned with Hindu statuary. The two main bathing places are Candi Jolotundo and Candi Belahan, the best examples of remaining Hindu art. Both are difficult to reach.
A minibus from Pandaan (south of Surabaya) to Trawas, the village that serves as base camp for the mountain, costs 8000Rp.
2Activities
PPLH Environmental Education CentreOUTDOORS
(%0321-681 8752; www.pplhselo.or.id; bungalows from 485,000Rp)
In a stunning setting on the evergreen western slopes of Penanggungan, the PPLH Environmental Education Centre is a supremely relaxing and interesting place. It’s mainly set up to teach groups about the merits of organic agriculture, composting and garbage management, but it has eight simple, comfortable cottages (each sleeping four) with outdoor bathrooms that can be rented by tourists.
There’s an organic restaurant and the meals get rave reports. School groups pass through from time to time, disturbing the tranquillity somewhat, but most of the time it’s very peaceful. Expert guides can be hired for hikes (about 200,000Rp per day), and they’ll gladly explain about plants used for herbal medicines. To get there, take a Trawas-bound minibus (8000Rp) from Pandaan and an ojek (20,000Rp) from Trawas.
HIKING GUNUNG WELIRANG & GUNUNG ARJUNA
It’s a hard, five-hour walk (17km) to the very basic huts used by the Gunung Welirang sulphur collectors. Hikers usually stay overnight here in order to reach the summit before the clouds roll in around mid-morning. Bring your own camping gear, food and drinking water (or hire it all at the PHKA post for around 200,000Rp per day), and be prepared for freezing conditions. From the huts it’s a 4km climb to the summit. Allow at least six hours in total for the ascent, and 4½ hours for the descent.
The trail passes Lalijiwo Plateau, a superb alpine meadow, from where a trail leads to Gunung Arjuna, the more demanding peak. From Arjuna, a trail leads down the southern side to Junggo, near Selekta and Batu. It’s a five-hour descent from Arjuna this way; a guide is essential.
Get information from the PHKA post (%081 2178 8956; Jl Wilis 523; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) at the entrance to the park. Guides can be hired here for 300,000Rp to 400,000Rp per day; allow two days to climb one mountain and three days for both.
Batu
%0341 / Pop 190,000
Batu, 15km northwest of Malang, is a large hill resort on the lower reaches of Gunung Arjuna, and is surrounded by volcanic peaks. It’s a popular weekend destination for locals, but few foreigners visit, which is a real shame as the scenery is gorgeous and the climate more forgiving than that in much of Java. All up, it makes for a relaxing couple of days’ stay.
1Sights
SonggoritiHOT SPRINGS
(20,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
Songgoriti, 3km west of Batu, has well-known hot springs and a small, ancient Hindu temple on the grounds of the Hotel Air Panas Songgoriti. The temple, which dates back to the 9th century, was once much larger, and today all you see is the very top part. Most of the temple is thought to be buried below.
Nearby, Pasar Wisata is a tourist market selling mostly apples, bonsai plants and volcanic stone mortars and pestles, which make for an unusual and surprisingly light-weight souvenir. The waterfall Air Terjun Cubanrondo is 5km southwest of Songgoriti.
Sumber BrantasVILLAGE
The small village of Sumber Brantas, far above Selekta resort, and in a gorgeous misty mountain setting, is at the source of the Sungai Brantas (Brantas River). From here you can walk 2km to Air Panas Cangar (admission 10,500Rp, car 5000Rp; h7.30am-5pm), hot springs high in the mountains surrounded by forest and mist.
Air Terjun CubanrondoWATERFALL
(10,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm)
The tall and narrow single waterfall of Air Terjun Cubanrondo drops off the cliffs 5km southwest of Songgoriti.
2Activities
SelektaSWIMMING
(35,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm)
Selekta, a small resort 5km further up the mountain from Batu and 1km off the main road, is home to the Pemandian Selekta, a large swimming-pool complex set in landscaped gardens. Other ‘highlights’ include some terrifying plastic dinosaurs, a giant fish tank, something mysteriously called a ‘Dad Boat’ and a giant lion’s mouth you can walk into.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation is available in Batu, Songgoriti and all along the road to Selekta. Songgoriti and Selekta are small, quiet resorts; Batu has the best facilities but is more built-up. Add around 25% to prices for weekend rates.
Kampung LumbungLODGE$$$
(%0851 0444 4142; www.grahabunga.com; Jl Ir Sukarno; r weekday/weekend from 550,000/650,000Rp, cottage weekday/weekend from 1,000,000/1,200,000Rp; Ws)
S A wonderful eco-hotel where the complex resembles a traditional village and all the buildings make good use of recycled wood and solar power. There’s excellent local food in the restaurant. The natural environment is sublime here: the climate is refreshing and the air is fresh. It’s 1km south of central Batu.
Hotel El Royale Kartika WijayaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(%0333-338 2999; www.kartikawijaya.com; Jl Panglima Sudirman 127; r incl breakfast from 1,100,000Rp; Ws)
An imposing colonial residence in sweeping grounds dotted with palms, lawns and tennis courts. The rooms are bright, spacious and filled with wicker furnishings, and the service is impressive. The walk-in room rates (quoted here) make it overpriced, but by booking online you can often secure heavily discounted room rates.
Warung Bethania BatuINDONESIAN$
(%0341-591 158; Jl Diponegoro 103; mains 24,000-65,000Rp; h10.30am-9pm)
This bamboo-walled restaurant with unusual tree-trunk furnishings and pictures of past clients on the walls, is the best-known place in Batu for fried fish and chicken. Both are served with delicious sides of fresh salads and sambals.
8Information
There are several banks with ATMs along Jl Panglima Sudirman.
8Getting There & Away
From Malang’s Landungsari bus terminal take a Kediri bus or a mikrolet (small taxi) to Batu (10,000Rp, 40 minutes). Mikrolet connect Batu’s bus terminal (Jl Dewi Sartika) with the centre via Panglima Sudirman.
From the bus terminal, mikrolet run to Selekta (3000Rp, 20 minutes) and Sumber Brantas (6000Rp, 45 minutes). Mikrolet turn off to Sumber Brantas at Jurangkuwali village. For Air Panas Cangar, walk 2km straight ahead from Jurangkuwali.
You’ll find plenty of ojek around Batu to get you to all of these destinations.
South-Coast Beaches
The coast south of Malang has some good beaches, but facilities are limited. Sendangbiru is a picturesque fishing village separated by a narrow channel from Pulau Sempu. This island nature reserve has a couple of lakes, Telaga Lele and Telaga Sat, both ringed by jungle. Boats can be hired (around 200,000Rp return) to get you to Sempu. Take your own provisions.
A few kilometres before Sendangbiru, a rough track to the left leads 3km to Tambakrejo, a small fishing village with a sweeping sandy bay, which (despite the surf) is generally safe for swimming.
Balekambang is best known for its picturesque Hindu temple on the small island of Pulau Ismoyo, connected by a footbridge to the beach. Balekambang is one of the most popular beaches and is crowded on weekends. There are basic guesthouses in the village.
Minibuses from Malang’s Gadang bus terminal travel to Sendangbiru (25,000Rp, two hours), past the turn-off to Tambakrejo. For Balekambang, buses run direct from Malang for 15,000Rp.
Blitar
%0342 / Pop 132,000
A low-key provincial city, Blitar is off the standard Javan tourist trails, but with several compelling sights in the vicinity, a hotel worth travelling for and a quiet and gentle atmosphere, Blitar is well worth a visit. The town makes a good base for visiting the Panataran temple complex and the spectacular active volcano of Gunung Kelud. It’s also the home of Indonesia’s first president, Sukarno; his memorial is worth checking out.
1Sights
Makam Bung KarnoMONUMENT
(Jl Sukarno 152; 3000Rp, incl museum entry; h7am-11pm)
At Sentul, 2km north of the town centre, former president Sukarno’s grave is marked by a massive black stone and an elaborate monument of columns and murals depicting his achievements. Sukarno (or Bung Karno) is widely regarded as the father of the Indonesian nation, although he was only reinstated as a national hero in 1978. Despite family requests that he be buried at his home in Bogor, Sukarno was buried in an unmarked grave next to his mother in Blitar.
4Sleeping & Eating
oTugu Sri LestariHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%0342-801 766; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Merdeka 173; r incl breakfast from 490,000Rp, Sukarno ste incl breakfast 3,700,000Rp; aW)
There’s a real sense of history throughout this hotel, which is in a converted Dutch colonial building dating from the 1850s. The rooms in the principal building are incredibly atmospheric, with high ceilings and grand teak beds; those in the modern extension at the rear are neat and functional.
Waroeng Tugu BlitarINDONESIAN$
(%0342-801 766; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Merdeka 173; mains 32,000-78,000Rp; h8am-10pm; v)
With an elegant colonial ambience, the in-house restaurant of the Tugu Sri Lestari is a fine place to delight in well-presented, upmarket versions of such local specialities as udang swarloka (deep-fried shrimp balls), tahu kembang jenar (crispy tofu stuffed with mushrooms, bean sprouts and bamboo shoots) and nasi kare ayam ny oei (chicken cooked in yellow curry served with rice).
Bu MamikINDONESIAN$
(%0342-806 634; Jl Kalimantan 11; mains 7500-32,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
Tasty ayam bakar (grilled chicken) is what brings droves of locals to this quaint, stilted indoor-outdoor restaurant with carved columns and twirling fans.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses run from Blitar to Malang (25,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Surabaya (50,000Rp, 4½ to five hours), as well as Solo (120,000Rp, six hours). The bus terminal is 4km south of town along Jl Kenari (3000Rp by angkot from the centre). Angkudes run from the western end of Jl Merdeka to Panataran temple for 6000Rp, passing close to Makam Bung Karno; you’ll have to walk the last 300m or so.
Blitar has a few useful train connections, with three daily services heading to both Solo (160,000Rp to 465,000Rp, 4½ hours) and Yogyakarta (160,000Rp to 465,000Rp, five to 5½ hours).
Hiring a car and driver makes a lot of sense to see the sights; the Hotel Tugu Blitar can organise this for from 550,000Rp per day. Or hire an ojek for much less at around 100,000Rp.
Panataran
The Hindu temples (admission by donation; h7am-5pm) at Panataran (locally called ‘Penataran’) are the largest intact Majapahit temples, and the finest examples of ancient East Javanese architecture and sculpture. Construction began in 1197, during the Singosari dynasty, with building work continuing for another 250 years. Most of the important surviving structures date from the great years of the Majapahit kingdom during the 14th century.
Around the base of the first-level platform, the comic-strip carvings tell the story of a test between the fat, meat-eating Bubukshah and the thin, vegetarian Gagang Aking.
Further on is the small Dated Temple, so called because of the date ‘1291’ (AD 1369) carved over the entrance. On the next level are colossal serpents snaking endlessly around the Naga Temple, which once housed valuable sacred objects.
At the rear stands the triple-tiered Mother Temple, its lowest panels depicting stories from the Ramayana. Behind is a small royal mandi with a frieze depicting lizards, bulls and dragons around its walls.
Three hundred metres southeast of the turn-off to the Panataran Hindu temples, the Museum Panataran (admission by donation; h8am-2pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 11am Fri) has an impressive collection of statuary from the complex, but labelling is poor.
Entry is by donation; 10,000Rp should be suitable. There’s a 3000Rp parking fee if coming by car.
VISITING GUNUNG KELUD
With a plunging crater and steaming vents and in a near-permanent state of growl, Gunung Kelud (1731m) is one of Java’s most active and rewarding volcanoes to visit. An eruption in 1919 killed 5000 people, while one in 2007 sent smoke 2.5km into the air and created a 250m-high cone within the caldera. The volcano erupted again in February 2014 and the resulting ash smothered buildings across East and Central Java.
When Kelud is calm, you can access a viewpoint ridge. To do this, drive to the car park below the mountain and then take a motorbike taxi (25,000Rp) to just short of the summit. From there, it’s a brief walk to the viewpoint. Repairs to access roads were ongoing at the time of research.
Entrance to Gunung Kelud is controlled at a gateway 10km before the summit because of the active nature of the beast. The volcano’s grumpy temperament means that it’s not always safe to visit. Hotels in Blitar will be able to give the latest on the status of the volcano.
Around 30km directly north of Panataran, Kelud is not accessible by public transport. The easiest way here is to hire a car or ojek from Blitar. After bargaining, the latter will do a half-day return trip via Panataran for around 120,000Rp.
Pacitan
%0357 / Pop 54,000
A long way from anywhere, the small south-coast town of Pacitan lies on a horseshoe bay ringed by rocky cliffs. It’s a beach resort with limited accommodation and a few fresh seafood restaurants. For a long time very few foreigners ever made it here. Today, thanks to the discovery of some epic surf spots in the town’s vicinity an ever-increasing number of foreign surfers are passing through. Non-surfing tourists remain rare, but the stunning coastline here offers much tourist potential.
The blonde beach at Pacitan itself is set in a rather dramatic bay shaped like a stemless wine glass. The natural harbour to the west is set against the towering jungled cliffs, and there’s a series of decent beach peaks as the beach meanders east toward a reasonable point break.
If you make an off-season visit during the week, you’ve a good chance of having a virtually deserted beach to yourself.
2Activities
Pantai Ria TelengSURFING
Pantai Ria Teleng, 4km or so from town at the eastern end of the bay, has golden sand and good surfing conditions for beginners as the waves break over a sandy bottom. Surfboards and bodyboards can be hired here, and there are lifeguards. Swimming is possible when the seas are calm.
4Sleeping
Harry’s Ocean HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0878 9514 5533; Pancer Beach; dm 40,000Rp, hut without bathroom 50,000Rp, r with fan/air-con 90,000/110,000Rp, cottages 150,000-250,000Rp; a)
This friendly and buzzing place has four styles of frills-free rooms on offer: dorms, a bamboo hut, concrete rooms and stilted wooden cottages with arched roofs. The property is on a back road, inland from the beach. It has another branch in nearby Watu Karung.
Arya HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0812 5201 2388; Jl Teleng Ria 2; r 200,000Rp; W)
Simple, fan-cooled tiled rooms come with high slanted ceilings and friendly management. It’s on the inland road and just a moment’s walk from the beach.
Surfing Bay CottageHOTEL$$
(%0821 3229 3888; s/d from 311,000/415,000Rp; W)
Across the street from the beach, this place is a little more upmarket than most of the homestay-style rooms in Pacitan. Rooms, which are in individual cottages lined up in a long garden, are comfortable, but with drab curtains and colour schemes, it’s hardly inspiring. The little terraces make for a nice spot to sit and read a book.
8Information
There are several banks with ATMs on Jl Jend Sudirman.
8Getting There & Away
Buses run to Pacitan from Solo (60,000Rp, 4½ hours) and also from Ponorogo (22,000Rp, 2½ hours) via a scenic road. From Ponorogo, direct buses go to Blitar (35,000Rp, three hours).
Direct travel minibuses (70,000Rp, three hours) connect Yogyakarta with Pacitan; call Aneka Jaya (%0357-883048; Jl Agus Salim).
There’s very little public transport around Pacitan. Motorbikes with surfboard racks can be rented from some Pacitan guesthouses (50,000Rp to 80,000Rp per day).
Watu Karang
%0357
Stunning Watu Karang, about 13km southwest of Pacitan, is an evocative fishing village with an arc of fine white sand and turquoise water offshore. For years the village was virtually unknown to tourists, but then in 2009 the international surf media lifted the lid on two epic surf spots in the bay here, and since then increasing numbers of surfers have been heading to Watu Karang.
If you’re not a surfer then you’re going to be in the minority, but the gorgeous beach is easily one of the best in East Java, and with increasingly good accommodation, Watu Karang makes for a charmed spot to chill out for a few days.
This is also agate country, and hawkers sell reasonably priced polished stones and rings.
Watu Karang is not served by public transport; you’ll need to hire a car in Pacitan or arrange transport with your guesthouse.
1Sights
At Punung village, on the Solo road 17km north of Watu Karang, is the turn-off to some magnificent limestone caves. Gua Putri is 2km from the highway, and the much more impressive Gua Gong, 8km away, is the largest and most spectacular cave system in the area.
The turn-off to the more famous Gua Tabuhan (Musical Cave) is 4km north on the highway beyond Punung, and then another 4km from there. This huge limestone cavern was a refuge for prehistoric humans 50,000 years ago. Pay the resident musicians here and they’ll strike up an impressive ‘orchestral’ performance by striking rocks against stalactites, each in perfect pitch, and echoing pure gamelan melodies. You must hire a guide and a lamp. There’s no easy way of getting here by public transport, so you’ll need to find a car and driver in Watu Karang.
2Activities
Watu Karang has two surf spots – one a left and one a right. Both waves are short, sharp, hollow and extremely heavy. This is expert-only surf country. The waves here are especially suited to bodyboarders, and Watu Karang is now considered one of the planet’s best bodyboard spots.
4Sleeping
Watukarung Prapto HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0853 2675 7012; r from 200,000Rp; aW)
Behind a terracotta-roofed family house is a series of wooden cabin rooms, which, though spartan, are polished clean and have good mattresses and attached bathrooms. The family that runs the place will quickly adopt you as one of their own.
Pasir PutihHOMESTAY$
(%0852 8102 3187; s/d 175,000/250,000Rp; aW)
One of the best homestays in the village, Pasir Putih offers modern rooms with private bathrooms and patios overlooking the beach. Chuck in a royal welcome from the owner and tasty home cooking and you’re onto a winner.
Istana OmbakRESORT$$$
(www.istanaombak.com; Jl Kerapu Milak 151; all-inclusive surf packages from 1,500,000Rp; Ws)
The original Watu Karang surf camp is a stunner, with comfortable thatched cottages and villas, wi-fi and satellite TV. Peer over the side of the cool, blue infinity pool and you can watch the waves explode down the reef. It offers solid local surf intel and spectacular family-style dinners, not to mention direct access to the beach.
8Getting There & Away
Infrequent buses run between Pacitan and Watu Karang. The journey takes around an hour. Most places to stay will arrange transfers from either Pacitan town or, easier, direct from Yogyakarta (around 600,000Rp)
Probolinggo
%0335 / Pop 220,800
For most travellers, Probolinggo is a bustling, featureless transit point in the fertile plains on the route to Gunung Bromo. You probably won’t want or need to hang around here long, but the innovative tourist information people might try to change your mind.
1Sights
Candi JabungHINDU TEMPLE
(Paiton; h6am-6pm) F
This rarely visited but worthwhile 14th-century, red-brick Majapahit temple is thought to be a funerary site for Majapahit royalty. The base of the 16m-high temple has pictures of animals and scenes of daily life carved into it, although most of these are quite badly eroded.
4Sleeping & Eating
oClover HomestayHOTEL$
(%0335-449 3483; Jl Mawar Merah 8; r incl breakfast from 150,000Rp)
By far the best place to stay in Probolinggo, Clover is a smart and colourful 29-room hotel, where the small and spotless rooms have deep purple or hazy-blue walls and decent hot-water bathrooms. It’s a good place to connect with other Bromo-bound travellers, and we love the dining room/communal hang-out with frilly oriental umbrellas.
Waserda HQQINDONESIAN$
(Jl Bengawan Solo 68; mains 20,000Rp; h5am-9pm)
This humble warung is run by a sweet wife-and-husband team, who cook up delicious East Javanese dishes such as nasi pecel (rice with a spicy peanut sauce, spinach and bean sprouts), nasi rawon (beef soup served with rice) and mie Jawa (stir-fried noodles), as well as a delicious slow-cooked rendang (beef coconut curry). The strong Javanese coffee will blow your socks off.
Sumber HidupCHINESE, INDONESIAN$
(Jl Dr Saleh II; mains 16,000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Large restaurant on the main strip that serves good Chinese food and Indonesian dishes. Doubles as an ice-cream parlour.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Probolinggo’s bus terminal has a poor reputation among travellers. It’s by no means dangerous, it’s just that the numerous touts aren’t always totally honest about onward transport.
The main scam involves overcharging for bus tickets. Some reputable-looking ticket agents ask for double (or more) the standard price. You can check departure times and prices on the monitor in the waiting area, or head to Toto Travel. Unless it’s a holiday (when you might want to book ahead) often the best thing to do is find the bus you need, and pay the fare onboard.
Also, when travelling to Probolinggo, make it clear to the ticket collector that you want to be dropped off at the Bayuangga bus terminal; we’ve received emails from travellers complaining of being left at random travel agents and charged exorbitant fares for bus tickets.
Thieves are common on the buses in East Java, especially on buses departing from Probolinggo.
If arriving by train, beware of tour agencies who are offering free transport rides to Cemoro Lawang; this will inevitably involve heading to their office where they will attempt to sell you their tour package.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Probolinggo’s Bayuangga bus terminal is located about 5km from town on the road to Gunung Bromo. There are TV monitors here with bus departure information. Buses to Banyuwangi, Bondowoso and Surabaya depart frequently; most transport to Denpasar is between 7pm and 11pm. If want to make an advance reservation, head to the helpful Toto Travel (%0335-443 8267, 0822 32244088; www.facebook.com/tototravelprobolinggo; Bayuangga bus terminal), where the owners speak English fluently.
Angkot run to/from the main street and the train station for 5000Rp.
BUSES FROM PROBOLINGGO
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP; ECONOMY/AIR-CON) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Banyuwangi | 40,000/50,000 | 5 |
| Bondowoso | 20,000/35,000 | 2½ |
| Denpasar | 120,000/180,000 | 11 |
| Jember | 20,000/30,000 | 2½ |
| Malang | 20,000/30,000 | 2½ |
| Surabaya | 20,000/30,000 | 2½-3 |
| Yogyakarta | 100,000/150,000 | 10-11 |
MINIBUS
Gunung Bromo minibuses leave from a stop just outside Probolinggo’s Bayuangga bus terminal, heading for Cemoro Lawang (35,000Rp, two hours) via Ngadisari until around 4pm; but they won’t leave until they have 10 to 15 passengers. Overcharging tourists is common on this route. Late-afternoon buses charge more to Cemoro Lawang (50,000Rp to 100,000Rp) when fewer passengers travel beyond Ngadisari. Make sure your bus goes all the way to Cemoro Lawang when you board.
TAXI
Taxis and freelance car drivers meet trains and wait for business at the bus station. A trip to Cemoro Lawang costs around 400,000Rp to 500,000Rp after bargaining; more if it’s late in the day.
TRAIN
About 2km north of town, the train station is 6km from the bus terminal. Probolinggo is on the Surabaya–Banyuwangi line. There are three daily trains to Yogyakarta (95,000Rp to 315,000Rp, 8½ to nine hours); four to six daily exclusive- and business-class trains to Surabaya (29,000Rp to 275,000Rp, two hours), and around five daily trains travelling east to Banyuwangi (27,000Rp to 160,000Rp, 4¼ to five hours)
Angkot D (5000Rp) connects the train station with the bus terminal.
WORTH A TRIP
WHALE-SHARK TOURS
Each year between January and March (the start of the season is better than the end) an annual migration causes quite a stir in Probolinggo. Twenty or more whale sharks, some measuring up to 8m, gather in the shallow seas off Pantai Bentar, 8km east of town. Boats take camera-toting local tourists on trips to see these marine giants, the world’s largest fish (a harmless plankton feeder). In Javanese they’re known as geger lintang (‘stars on the back’), a reference to the starlike spots these sharks can be identified by. Boats only charge 15,000Rp or so per person, providing there are enough passengers. As the sea is usually murky, snorkelling is seldom rewarding. Sightings are far from guaranteed, with even boat operators admitting to only a 50/50 chance of seeing them. If you’re determined to see one in Java, it’s best to allow for two days of boat excursions.
Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park
%Cemoro Lawang 0335 / Elev Cemoro Lawang 2217m
A lunarlike landscape of epic proportions and surreal beauty, the volcanic Bromo region is one of Indonesia’s most breathtaking sights.
Rising from the guts of the ancient Tengger caldera, Gunung Bromo (2392m) is one of three volcanoes to have emerged from a vast crater, stretching 10km across. Flanked by the peaks of Kursi (2581m) and Batok (2440m), the smouldering cone of Bromo stands in a sea of ashen, volcanic sand, surrounded by the towering cliffs of the crater’s edge. Just to the south, Gunung Semeru (3676m), Java’s highest peak and one of its most active volcanoes, throws its shadow – and occasionally its ash – over the whole scene.
The vast majority of independent travellers get to Bromo via the town of Probolinggo and stay in Cemoro Lawang, where facilities are good. There are other options in villages on the road up from Probolinggo. Additional approaches via Wonokitri and Ngadas are possible.
Gunung Bromo
Gunung Bromo is unforgettable. It’s not the mountain itself, but the sheer majesty of the experience: the immense size of the entire Tengger crater, the supernatural beauty of the scenery and the dramatic highland light that will saturate your brain with tranquility – for at least a little while.
Virtually all tours are planned to enable you to experience the mountain at sunrise. This is when the great crater is at its ethereal best and colours are most impressive. But visibility is usually good throughout the day in the dry season (June to September), even though the slopes below Cemoro Lawang may be covered in mist. Later in the day you’ll also avoid the dawn crowds – things get especially busy during holiday periods. In the wet season it’s often bright and clear at dawn but quickly clouds over.
It’s a short, enjoyable hike to Bromo from Cemoro Lawang. The 3km (40-minute) ‘trail’ wanders down the crater wall and across the eerie Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand) to the slopes of Bromo. White stone markers are easy to follow during the day but can be more elusive in the dark. Make sure you climb the right cone; Bromo has a stone staircase. Some hikers, disoriented in the dark, have attempted to climb neighbouring Batok. If you’re lucky you will share the rim with groups of Balinese or Javanese Hindu pilgrims who have come to pray to one of the three most sacred mountains in Hindu lore and make offerings in the hopes of satisfying the volcano and the gods.
After ascending the 253 steps, you’ll come face to face with the steaming, sulphurous guts of the volcano. There are sweeping views back across the Laotian Pasir to the lip of the crater and over to Batok and the Hindu temple (open only on auspicious days in the pilgrim calendar) at its base.
Mercifully, there’s little of the tacky commercialism (bar the odd souvenir seller) that besmirches many Indonesian scenic spots, though there is ample plastic litter on the rim (please pack your bottles and trash out). The local Tengger people may press you into accepting a horse ride across the crater bed, but there’s no serious hassle. No matter how many folks are gathered on the rim, it’s still easy to connect spiritually with this sacred peak if you wander around the lip of the Bromo cone, away from the main viewing point.
History
Unsurprisingly, the eerie landscape of Bromo and its neighbouring volcanoes has spawned countless myths and legends. It is said that the Tengger crater was originally dug out with just half a coconut shell by an ogre smitten with love for a princess.
But Bromo is of particular religious significance to the Hindu Tengger people who still populate the massif. They first fled here to escape the wave of Islam that broke over the Majapahit kindgom in the 16th century. The Tengger believe that Bromo once fell within the realm of the childless King Joko Seger and Queen Roro Anteng, who asked the god of the volcano for assistance in producing an heir. The god obliged, giving them 25 children, but demanded that the youngest, a handsome boy named Dian Kusuma, be sacrificed to the flames in return. When the queen later refused to fulfil her promise, the young Dian sacrificed himself to save the kingdom from retribution.
2Activities
The classic Bromo tour offered by all hotels and guides in Cemoro Lawang (and other villages) involves pick-up at around 3.30am and a 4WD journey up to the neighbouring peak of Gunung Penanjakan (2770m). This viewpoint offers the best vistas (and photographs) of the entire Bromo landscape, with Gunung Semeru puffing away on the horizon. However, at the time of research this viewpoint was closed in order to allow it time to recover from the absolute pounding it has received from tens of thousands of visitors. There was no information on when (or if) it might re-open. For the moment drivers are taking clients to other viewpoints. After sunrise, 4WDs head back down the steep lip of the crater and then over the Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand) to the base of Bromo. It’s usually easy to hook up with others for this tour to share costs. Private jeeps cost 600,000Rp, but sometimes you can negotiate a cheaper price. If you pay for a single seat, expect to be crammed in with four or five others, though the price (125,000Rp) is right.
Alternatively, it’s a two-hour hike to the top of Gunung Penanjakan, the so-called second viewpoint, from Cemoro Lawang. But King Kong Hill – perched just 20 minutes beyond the first viewpoint, and also on Penanjakan, set on a ledge jutting out from the main trail – has even better views than the top. From here, looking toward the west, you’ll see Bromo bathed in that dawn light, along with Gunung Batok, with Gunung Semeru photobombing from behind. It can take up to an hour to reach it, but it’s a stunning walk. Just up from the village, the slopes are planted with scallions, potatoes and cauliflower. You won’t see them in the dark, but they make a lovely vista on the easy downhill stroll. Trekkers can also take an interesting walk across the Laotian Pasir to the village of Ngadas (8km), below the southern rim of the Tengger crater. From here, motorbikes and 4WDs descend to Tumpang, which is connected by regular buses to Malang.
TIPS FOR VISITING BROMO
A Bromo’s popularity means that during high season (July, August, Indonesian holidays and the Christmas period) and weekends, the two main viewpoints can get very crowded between sunrise and the early morning. Organised tours all follow the same schedule and on the busiest days there can be a couple of hundred people lined up along these viewpoints all desperate to get the perfect selfie as the sun rises… Consider visiting Gunung Penanjakan and the Bromo crater at other times of day.
A There are two entry posts as you drive uphill toward Cemoro Lawang and into Taman Nasional Bromo-Tengger-Semeru. The first will charge a mere 10,000Rp entrance fee, but the second is the real ticket. And that ticket costs 220,000Rp (Monday to Friday) and 350,000Rp (Saturday and Sunday). Steep? Yes, but worth it.
A Walking from Cemoro Lawang to the Bromo crater only takes around 40 minutes to one hour, and enables you to take in the scenery and get your boots dusty in the grey volcanic sands of the Laotian Pasir (Sea of Sand); face masks are recommended, and can be purchased from vendors.
A At any time of year it’s cold in the early morning and temperatures can drop to single digits or near-freezing. Guesthouses rent out jackets for around 40,000Rp.
A The lip of the crater in Cemoro Lawang (between the Cemara Indah hotel and Lava View Lodge) has lots of viewing spots where you can savour Bromo’s superb scenery away from the crowds.
A If you’re unlucky and cloudy weather curtails your views of Bromo, drop by the gallery at the Jiwa Jawa hotel to see what you’ve missed. And then stay another day and hope that the skies clear.
zFestivals & Events
In September, Jiwa Jawa lodge hosts a jazz festival, Gunung Jazz (www.jazzgunung.com) with performances from international and domestic artists held in the open-air hotel grounds.
KasadaRELIGIOUS
The wrath of Bromo is appeased during the annual Kasada festival, when Tenggerese Hindus come to Bromo to make peace with the mountain, and pray for health and good harvests. During this time, local daredevils descend into the crater and use nets to attempt to catch offerings (money, food and even live chickens) thrown down by others above.
It’s a risky business and is as dangerous as it sounds – every few years someone slips and the volcano claims another victim. The festival takes place on the 14th day of the Kasada month in the traditional Hindu lunar calendar. Dates change each year, but for the next couple of years, it’s likely to fall in June.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation in the Bromo area is notoriously poor value for money. Given its proximity to Bromo, the village of Cemoro Lawang is the most convenient place to stay, and offers a choice of rudimentary guesthouses or overpriced hotels. Around 5km eastwards towards Probolinggo is another enclave of guesthouses that also has some OK spots.
CEMORO LAWANG
Bromo Otix GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 5773 6209; Cemoro Lawang; r with shared/private bathroom 150,000/200,000Rp)
A cut above the rest of the Cemoro Lawang competition, the Bromo Otix has three classes of rooms. Those in the new front block are smart, brightly painted and have attached bathrooms with warm water. Those in the rear blocks are older and have shared bathrooms but are still well kept. The staff are friendlier than in most nearby guesthouses.
Tengger IndahHOMESTAY$
(%0858 5357 4021; Cemoro Lawang; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp; W)
An east-facing double-storey homestay in town, a stone’s throw from the rim at the junction. The interiors are simple, tiled and affordable, but otherwise in need of a makeover. There are superb views from its balcony, and it’s perfectly located for jaunts into Bromo.
Lava View LodgeHOTEL$$
(%0812 4980 8182, 0335-541009; Cemoro Lawang; r/bungalows from 700,000/800,000Rp; W)
This well-run hotel is 500m along a side road on the eastern side of the village. As it’s almost on the lip of the crater, you can stumble out your door to magnificent Bromo views. The wooden rooms and bungalows are comfortable enough, though they lack the wow factor you’d expect for this price. Staff are friendly.
Cafe Lava HostelHOTEL$$
(%0812 3584 1111, 0335-541020; www.cafelava.lavaindonesia.com; Cemoro Lawang; r with shared bathroom from 175,000Rp, with bathroom & breakfast from 450,000Rp; aW)
With a sociable vibe thanks to its streetside cafe and attractive layout (rooms are scattered down the side of a valley), this is first choice for most travellers, despite steep prices and fairly low quality. Economy rooms are very small and gloomy, but they’re neat and have access to a shared verandah and clean communal bathrooms (fitted with hot showers).
Hotel Bromo PermaiLODGE$$
(%0335-541049; Cemoro Lawang; d from 580,000Rp)
With huge views out over the caldera, this place has a prime location. The tiled rooms are very average, though, and maintenance could be better (you’ll be lucky to get much hot water, for instance), but it’s comfortable enough for a night. The restaurant is decked out with wood panelling and is washed in classical Indonesian music.
Cafe Lava RestoINDONESIAN$
(%0335-541020; Cafe Lava Hostel, Cemoro Lawang; mains 23,000-43,000Rp; hbreakfast 7-9am, lunch 1-4pm, dinner 6-9pm; W)
Attached to the Cafe Lava Hostel, this is about the best place to eat around the volcano, though that’s not saying much. It has a menu of Indonesian classics (as well as some seasonal mushroom dishes), to go with a few Western and Chinese options and cold Bintang. There’s a breakfast buffet in the mornings (40,000Rp).
Ngadisari & Wonotoro
Yoschi’s HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0335-541018, 0813 3129 8881; www.hotelyoschi.com; Wonokerto St 117, Km2; r incl breakfast with shared/private bathroom 300,000/540,000Rp, cottages from 1,020,000Rp; iW)
This rustic place has lots of character, with bungalows and small rooms dotted around a large, leafy garden compound. However, most lack hot water (there’s a shared hot shower next to the men’s toilet) and cleanliness standards could be better. There’s a huge restaurant that serves up pricey Western and Indonesian food (subject to a stiff 20% service charge).
Jiwa JawaHOTEL$$$
(%0335-541193; www.jiwajawa.com; Ngadisari; r incl breakfast from 1,800,000Rp, ste from 4,700,000Rp; W)
An ultra-modern mountain lodge, this excellent place has stylish though compact rooms with beautiful photo art on the walls, quality mattresses, floor-to-ceiling windows and the best bathrooms you’ve ever seen on the side of an exploding volcano. You’ll also love the elevated cafe-restaurant, which has sweeping views over villages and vegetable fields.
8Information
Information about trails and mountain conditions is available from the PHKA posts in Cemoro Lawang and the southern outskirts of Wonokitri. Both extend their opening hours during busy periods. The park’s official office is located in Malang. There are PHKA posts in Cemoro Lawang (%0335-541038; Cemoro Lawang; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun) and Wonokitri (%0335-357 1048; Wonokitri; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun).
There’s a BNI ATM close to the crater lip in Cemoro Lawang.
8Getting There & Away
Probolinggo is the main gateway to Bromo. From Probolinggo there are public minibuses to Cemoro Lawang (35,000Rp to 40,000Rp, two hours) at the foot of Bromo, but they only leave when they’re full (15 people). Mornings are the best time to try and get one of these. Otherwise, there are shuttles run by tour operators for around 60,000Rp to 100,000Rp. A privately rented vehicle from Probolinggo is likely to cost in the region of 450,000Rp to 600,000Rp return, with an overnight stop. These private vehicles are not allowed to take visitors down into the caldera, so you will have to pay for a place in a jeep like everyone else from Cemoro Lawang (or you can walk around the Bromo sights). For the return trip you can try to take the public minibus (which again, have no set schedules, but normally leave around 8am to 10am). Otherwise there’s a shuttle (50,000Rp to 60,000Rp) that leaves around 9.30am to Probolinggo, from where you can catch long-distance buses to Yogyakarta and Denpasar.
Gunung Semeru
Part of the huge Tengger Massif, the classic cone of Gunung Semeru is the highest peak in Java, at 3676m. Also known as Mahameru (Great Mountain), it is looked on by Hindus as the most sacred mountain of all and the father of Gunung Agung on Bali.
Semeru is one of Java’s most active peaks and has been in a near-constant state of eruption since 1818 – it exploded as recently as March 2009. At the time of research the mountain was open to hikers, but periodically officials will warn against attempting the summit due to volcanic acitivity.
Trekking tours from Malang usually take two (or sometimes three) days to get to the summit and back. Expect to pay around 750,000Rp per person, per day for a three-day, two-night hike including all supplies, transport, meals and an English-speaking guide.
To hike the peak independently, take an angkot (10,000Rp, 45 minutes) from Malang’s Arjosari bus station to Tumpang. Here you can charter an ojek/4WD (around 80,000/600,000Rp) to Ranu Pani village, the start of the trek. There are several homestays (200,000Rp to 350,000Rp per person including meals) in Ranu Pani (2109m). Good ones include Pak Tasrip and Pak Tumari, both of which serve meals and can organise guides (150,000Rp per day), tents and sleeping bags (which are essential).
Hikers must register with the PHKA post, which is towards the lake in Ranu Pani. It will have the latest information about conditions – you may not be able to access the summit and may only make it as far as the Arcopodo campsite. You may be asked to produce a health certificate. Expect to pay a small fee for a climbing permit and entrance for the national park (weekday/weekend 217,500/317,500Rp).
Rangers will direct you to the trailhead for Semeru. The route is lined with markers for some distance and passes three shelters, so it’s difficult to get lost. You’ll pass pretty Ranu Kumbolo, a crater lake (2400m), 13km or 3½ hours from Ranu Pani. The trail then crosses savannah before climbing to Kalimati (three hours), at the foot of the mountain. From Kalimati it is a steep climb of around an hour to Arcopodo, where there is a flattish campsite.
From Arcopodo, it is a short, steep climb to the start of the volcanic sands, and then a tough three-hour climb through loose scree to the peak. Semeru explodes every half hour and the gases and belching lava make the mountain dangerous – stay well away from vents. On a clear day, there are breathtaking views of Java’s north and south coasts, as well as vistas of Bali. To see the sunrise, it is necessary to start at about 1.30am for the summit.
HIKING GUNUNG SEMERU
A Semeru is a highly active volcano, and its status changes rapidly – check with the national-park office in Malang, locally in Ranu Pani village and also online at www.gunungbagging.com.
A Because several hikers have died of heart attacks climbing Semeru, officially you’re supposed to have a health certificate to confirm that you should be able to make it there and back. These are best obtained in Malang in advance, but are not always requested.
A Nights on the mountain are bitterly cold (often near-freezing) and inexperienced climbers have died of exposure. Make sure you have adequate gear and clothing.
A The best time of year to make the climb is May to October when you have a decent chance of clear skies and dry weather.
Bondowoso
%0332 / Pop 69,780
Bondowoso, suspended between the highlands of Tengger and Ijen, is the gateway to Bromo and Ijen and home to some of the island’s best tape, a tasty, sweet-and-sour snack made from boiled and fermented cassava. It’s mainly a transit and market town, and tours to Ijen can be organised here.
4Sleeping & Eating
Palm HotelHOTEL$$
(%0332-421 201; www.palm-hotel.net; Jl A Yani 32; r incl breakfast with fan & cold shower 225,000Rp, with air-con from 364,000Rp; aWs)
Just south of the huge, grassy alun-alun (main public square), this aging hotel has a large, heat-busting pool that makes it a great escape from Java’s punishing humidity. Take your pick from simple and somewhat tatty fan-only options with cold-water mandi or larger air-conditioned rooms that show a minimalist design influence.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Ijen there are many (cramped) minibuses to Sempol (around 30,000Rp, 2½ to 3½ hours), a gateway village for those tackling the volcano; all leave Bondowoso’s bus terminal (Jl Imam Bonjol) before 1pm. From Sempol you can take an ojek (50,000Rp) to Pos Paltuding, the starting point for treks to Ijen. Otherwise Palm Hotel can arrange trips for 750,000Rp.
Other destinations from Bondowoso include Jember (7000Rp, one hour), Probolinggo (25,000Rp to 35,000Rp, two hours) and Surabaya (normal/air-con 38,000/70,0000Rp, five hours).
Ijen Plateau
The fabled Ijen Plateau is a vast volcanic region dominated by the three cones of Ijen (2368m), Merapi (2800m) and Raung (3332m). Virtually everyone comes purely for Ijen – to hike up to its spectacular sulphur crater lake, and to experience the unworldly sight of its ‘blue fire’ phenomenon.
However, the rest of the area is also worth exploring, and its sweeping vistas combined with a temperate climate make the plateau a great base for a few days. Threaded with streams and gurgling with hot springs, it’s a beautiful, forested alpine area, with rubber and clove groves, cloud-soaked passes and evocative shade-grown coffee plantations. Along with the plantations and their company kampung (villages), there are a few isolated settlements.
1Sights
oKawah IjenLAKE
(Mon-Fri 100,000Rp, Sat & Sun 150,000Rp)
The Ijen plateau’s most extraordinary sight is the magnificent turquoise sulphur lake of Kawah Ijen. A night hike to the crater in which the lake boils will introduce you to blue fire, spectacular scenery and a group of men with what must be one of the world’s most unusual jobs. Pay entry fees at the PHKA post.
Kebun BalawanPLANTATION
(%0823 3262 8342) F
Visits to this coffee plantation include a wander through coffee groves and an informal tour of the plantation’s factory. It also has thermal pools and a gushing thermal waterfall (5000Rp) set amid lush jungle. Arrange a visit through the Catimor Homestay in Kalisat village.
KAWAH IJEN’S SULPHUR GATHERERS
Buried deep into a steep-sided crater at 2148m above sea level, Kawah Ijen is renowned for its sulphur ‘miners’ (more accurately ‘gatherers’). Each night these men brave clouds of noxious gases and devil-dancing sulphurous blue flames to dig hunks of yellow sulphur out of the ground surrounding the lake and carry it off to processing centres lower down the mountain. Most of the 300 men involved in this activity have minimal safety equipment and do nothing more than tie a wet piece of cloth around the mouth and nose to protect them from the highly dangerous sulphur clouds that swirl around the lake. These DIY miners then spend the next six-or-so hours scurrying back down the volcano with 60kg to 80kg loads on their backs.
It’s arduous work that pays very little (around 800Rp per kilo), and yet the nonstop, physical exertion keeps the collectors incredibly fit. Few report health problems despite breathing great lungfuls of sulphurous fumes virtually every day of their lives. The sulphur collected is used for cosmetics and medicine, and is added to fertiliser and insecticides.
Despite the hardships of their job, the miners are a cheery lot and are happy to be photographed for a small fee (indeed most of them probably now make a significant proportion of their income from tourism rather than from mining).
2Activities
The starting point for the trek to the crater is the PHKA post (weekdays/weekends 100,000/150,000Rp; motorbikes/cars 5000/10,000Rp; h24hr) at Pos Paltuding, which can be reached from Bondowoso or Banyuwangi. Sign in and pay your entry fee here. The steep 3km path up to the observation post (where there’s a teahouse) takes just over an hour. From the post it’s a further 30-minute walk to the lip of the wind-blasted crater and its stunning views.
From the crater rim, an extremely steep, gravelly path leads down to the sulphur deposits and the steaming lake. Most climbers make the effort to set out in the middle of the night in order to witness the stunning and eerie spectacle of its ‘blue fire’, which blazes on the shore of the crater lake. Only visible in the darkness of night (generally best viewed before 4am – which is when most people arrive to coincide with sunrise), this phenomenon of glowing electric-blue flame is explained through the combustion of sulphurous gases, an effect seen only in a few places on earth (Iceland is another). Although park authorities don’t prevent tourists descending into the crater, signs warn against doing so. Should you chose to, the walk down takes around 30 minutes; the path is slippery in parts and the sulphur fumes towards the bottom can be overwhelming. Expect burning lungs and streaming eyes if you do make it to the bottom. Take great care – a French tourist fell and died here some years ago. A gas mask is a very good idea, and they are available for hire for 50,000Rp at Pos Paltuding; make sure you test it works before setting off. Children and those with respiratory illnesses should avoid making the descent into the crater.
Close to the lakeshore, you can be certain that at some point you will find yourself enveloped in a gas cloud. Even with a gas mask, this can be quite distressing. Breathing can be difficult, eyes can sting painfully and visibility can be dramatically reduced. The important thing is not to panic. Try to quickly but calmly move away from the lakeshore and out of the cloud. Bringing along a guide (100,000Rp to 150,000Rp) from the PHKA post is highly recommended. Finally, a note on camera equipment. The sulphur gases are highly corrosive. Unprotected camera equipment (especially more sensitive SLRs) can quickly malfunction if exposed to the gases for too long. Keep your electronic equipment sealed up in a plastic bag as much as possible.
Back at the lip of the crater, where the air will suddenly feel wonderfully rich and clean, turn left for the climb to the highest point (2368m) and magnificent views at sunrise, or keep walking counterclockwise for even more expansive vistas of the lake. On the other side of the lake, opposite the vent, the trail disappears into crumbling volcanic rock and deep ravines. Do not attempt to cross this.
The ideal time to make the Kawah Ijen hike is in the dry season between April and October. However, while the path is steep, it’s usually not too slippery, so the hike is certainly worth a try in the rainy season if you have a clear day.
Ijen is highly volatile, and although its last major eruption was in 1936, the crater is frequently closed when volcanic activity increases. Check with hotels in surrounding towns as to the current status.
4Sleeping & Eating
Catimor HomestayLODGE$
(%0823 3262 8342; catimor_n12@yahoo.com; Blawan; r 200,000-400,000Rp; Ws)
This budget lodge boasts an excellent location in the Kebun Balawan coffee plantation, close to hot springs and a waterfall. Rooms are divided between its original wooden Dutch planters lodge (c 1894), which features a decrepit yet wildly atmospheric sitting area, or better maintained and cleaner rooms around its sparkling, chilly pool.
The place is often booked out, but it can arrange homestays if full. Most tour groups don’t arrive until the evening, so it’s a lovely place to relax during the day.
It’s a 10-minute walk to a hot-springs complex (7am to 4pm; 5000Rp entry); an impressive waterfall is nearby.
Staff do their best considering the remote location, and the meals (60,000Rp set dinner menu) are quite good and beers reasonably priced. An ojek from Sempol is around 50,000Rp; to get to Ijen, it’s about 80,000Rp.
Arabika HomestayLODGE$
(%0852 5959 5955; arabica.homestay@gmail.com; Jl Kawah Ijen, Sempol; r incl breakfast 200,000-400,000Rp; W)
This dated and chilly mountain lodge is managed by the Kebun Kalisat coffee plantation, which is a short walk away. While it could be cleaner and better maintained, if you’re in the right frame of mind it remains an atmospheric place with lovely views of Ijen from its restaurant patio.
oJiwa Jawa IjenBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0628-1130 3818; www.jiwajawa.com; r/ste incl breakfast from 1,960,000/2,660,000Rp; Ws)
There couldn’t be a greater contrast between the hellish landscapes of the Kawah Ijen crater and this boutique hotel, which snuggles away under banana and palm trees, and offers hypnotic views over the countryside from its designer viewing platform. The rooms are smart and well equipped, and quality art and Javanese handicrafts can be found throughout.
Ijen ResortHOTEL$$$
(%0815 5810 4576, 0819 3764 6004; www.ijendiscovery.com; Dusun Randuagung; r/ste from 2,133,000/2,646,500; aWs)
This top-end resort, set in fertile grounds, has beautiful rooms with stone or timber floors, open-air bathrooms and attractive furnishings. From the figure-eight infinity pool, you can admire views out over the rice terraces to distant brooding volcanoes. If you can afford it, the resort is an ideal place to while away a few days in blissful peace.
oJava BananaFUSION$$
(Jiwa Jawa; %0628-1130 3818; www.jiwajawa.com; mains 65,000-195,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Set off the road up to Ijen from Banyuwangi, this restaurant, inside the upmarket Jiwa Jawa hotel, is a stunner, with a massive ground-floor gallery and an outdoor amphitheatre with spectacular volcano views. The menu is ambitious. Expect mains such as parrotfish in Mediterranean ragu, quail salad, and a nori-crusted rack of lamb.
8Getting There & Away
It is possible to travel nearly all the way to Kawah Ijen by public transport, but most visitors charter transport. Both access roads are narrow, winding and slow going, although the Banyuwangi road has been recently improved and is the fastest route to the Pos Paltuding PHKA post (1¼ hours).
FROM BONDOWOSO
From Wonosari, 8km from Bondowoso towards Situbondo, a rough, potholed road runs via Sukosari and Sempol to Pos Paltuding. It’s normally passable in any high-clearance vehicle, but sometimes a 4WD is necessary. Sign in at the coffee-plantation checkpoints (around 5000Rp) on the way. Hotels in Bondowoso can arrange day tours to Ijen for around 750,000Rp.
By public transport, several angkot run from Bondowoso to Sempol (30,000Rp, 2½ hours), most in the late morning, but there’s a final one at 1pm. If passengers want to continue on to Pos Paltuding, drivers will sometimes do so, though foreigners are regularly overcharged on this route. Otherwise ojek in Sempol charge around 50,000Rp one way. At Pos Paltuding, there are usually a few drivers to take you back.
FROM BANYUWANGI
The Banyuwangi–Ijen road was in good condition at research time, though it has been known to be impossibly rutted in the past. Check locally for current conditions before setting off. There’s no public transport all the way from Banyuwangi to Pos Paltuding, which is a sparsely populated region.
The best option is to take a tour with one of the better Banyuwangi hotels (from 200,000 to 300,000Rp per person, depending on vehicle and whether entry fees, guides and a packed breakfast are included). Otherwise 4WDs (700,000Rp per vehicle) can be arranged through the Banyuwangi tourist office. Chartering an ojek from Banyuwangi to Ijen is possible for around 200,000Rp (including a wait of four hours). Ojek drivers hang around the ferry terminal in Ketapang and at Banyuwangi bus station, or ask at your guesthouse.
Heading back down the mountain, ojek charge around 100,000Rp for a one-way ride to Banyuwangi from Pos Paltuding.
Kalibaru
%0333 / Pop 5000
The picturesque road from Jember to Banyuwangi winds around the foothills of Gunung Raung, through rainforest, and up to the small hill town of Kalibaru (428m).
The village itself is not much to look at, but those few hundred metres of altitude give it a more benign climate than many parts of Java. The town makes a good base from which to visit the plantations around Glenmore to the east, or the smaller, more easily visited plots of coffee and cloves to the north of Kalibaru train station.
The area has many coffee plantations, and guides can be hired (100,000Rp) for group tours to see rubber tapping and processing, as well as cacao and coffee processing.
TTours
Margo Utomo Resort offers several tours, including ones to spice and coffee plantations and longer trips to Meru Betiri and Alas Purwo National Parks. On the plantation visits English-speaking guides will show you around a totally organic estate, which has a butterfly park; peppercorn, cinnamon and nutmeg trees; and vanilla and cacao plants. Also on offer are 4WD trips to surrounding villages that take in a waterfall and a cacao factory. Contact the hotel in advance about joining a tour.
1Sights
Glenmore PlantationPLANTATION
(%0813 3854 4445; hby appointment) F
Rumoured to have been established in the 18th century by a group of runaway Scots (hence the name), the Glenmore Plantation, which is a few kilometres to the east of the town centre, is the most receptive in the area to visitors. Tours of the large plantation, which grows coffee, rubber and various spices and fruits, last an hour or so.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kendi VillasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0878 5523 4338; https://kendi-villas-and-spa-id.book.direct; Jl Putri Gunung 99; r incl breakfast from 415,000Rp; aWs)
A small and modern resort-style place with friendly management and tile-floored individual cottages lined up alongside an inviting pool. Rooms have splashes of modern art on the walls. There’s a gazebo in the garden next to a stream and with views over the mountains.
Margo Utomo Eco ResortHOTEL$$
(%0333-897700; www.margoutomo.com; Jl Lapangan 10; r incl breakfast 550,000Rp; is)
This classy former plantation enjoys a resplendent garden, bursting with shrubs and flowers (all neatly labelled). The gardens definitely outclass the cottages, which are pricey considering their simplicity, but they are tasteful and have charm. All have ceiling fans. Follow the path and you’ll find a 20m pool at the rear of the grounds.
Kalibaru CottagesBUNGALOW$$
(%0333-897333; www.kalibarucottages.com; r incl breakfast 390,000-620,000Rp; aWs)
A large, well-run resort boasting expansive, manicured grounds with a T-shaped pool fringed by palm trees. Faux-traditional cottages are spacious and have semi-open-air showers. The restaurant is a bit pricey. It’s 4km west of town on the Jember road. Staff can organise good local tours of plantations and cottage industries.
8Getting There & Away
Buses running between Jember (15,000Rp, one hour) and Banyuwangi (25,000Rp, three hours) can drop you near the hotels. The train station is in the village centre; Kalibaru is on the main Banyuwangi–Jember–Probolinggo–Surabaya train line.
Jember
%0331 / Pop 332,000
Jember is a large city and service centre for the surrounding coffee, cacao, rubber, cotton and tobacco plantations. It’s relatively clean, with a futuristic mosque that looks like a flying saucer by its alun-alun (main public square), but there’s no reason to linger. If you plan to go to Meru Betiri, you could drop by the Meru Betiri National Park Office, which has accommodation details and background information on the park.
4Sleeping & Drinking
Jember has a reasonable selection of places to stay in all price bands. There’s live music every evening at the Aston Jember Hotel. If you don’t like the groove, you can at least drown your sorrows with a beer.
Aston Jember HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(%0331-423888; www.astonhotelsinternational.com; Jl Sentot Prawirodirjo 88; r from 418,285Rp; aWs)
Wooden floors, funky wallpaper, floor-to-ceiling windows, thick mattresses and an impressive swimming pool that nearly encircles half the hotel. This modern, business hotel is as good as things get in Jember, and it makes for a very comfortable overnight stay. Decent breakfast spread.
8Getting There & Away
Jember has an excess of transport terminals. The main one, Tawung Alun (or Terminal Jember), 6km west of town, has buses to Banyuwangi (35,000Rp, four hours) and Kalibaru (15,000Rp, one hour), and economy buses to Denpasar, Solo and Yogyakarta. Angkot run from here to Terminal Arjesa, which serves Bondowoso (10,000Rp, 45 minutes).
There are also subterminals to the east (for Banyuwangi) and south (for Watu Ulo). Jember is also located on the Surabaya–Banyuwangi train line; the station is in the town centre.
Meru Betiri National Park
The Meru Betiri National Park, covering 580 sq km between Jember and Banyuwangi districts, is an area of magnificent coastal rainforest and abundant wildlife, making it one of Java’s finest parks. It’s famous as having been one of the last refuges of the Java tiger, now almost certainly extinct. Meru Betiri is very difficult to access (often impossible in the rainy season), which keeps the number of visitors to a trickle, but the park authorities are actively trying to promote tourism.
The future of the park is under threat on several fronts. Illegal loggers, farmers and hunters encroach on its territory. Mining companies, and illegal miners, are also eyeing up the park after significant gold deposits were found here.
1Sights & Activities
Wildlife, found mostly in the mountain forests, includes leopards, wild boars, monkeys, banteng, black giant squirrels, civets, reticulated pythons (the world’s longest snake) and Javanese eagles. You’re sure to see a lot of monkeys, monitor lizards and hornbills – maybe even the rhinoceros hornbill, which emits a bark-like honk.
Trails are limited in the park and a guide (100,000Rp) is usually necessary. There are good coastal walks, but sadly there’s quite a bit of trash around, on the beach and inland. For the really adventurous, it’s possible to make a three-day traverse of the park on foot.
Rajegwesi, at the entrance to the park, is on a large bay with a sweeping beach and a fishing village. Past the park entrance the road climbs, giving expansive views over spectacular Teluk Hijau (Green Bay), with its cliffs and white-sand beach. A trail leads 1km from the road down to Teluk Hijau, or it is about a one-hour walk east from Mess Pantai.
Permisan BayBEACH
The best beach by far in the park is at Permisan Bay, an almost sausage-shaped bay with calm waters and a small island in the middle. It’s a half-day hike from Sukamade. You can camp on the beach, but bring everything you might need with you as you’ll almost certainly be all alone.
Sukamade Turtle BeachWILDLIFE RESERVE
The park’s major attraction is the protected turtle beach at Sukamade, one of Indonesia’s most important turtle-spawning grounds, where several species come ashore between October and April to lay their eggs. You’ve a good chance of seeing a turtle here; green turtles and olive ridleys are the most common. Giant leatherbacks used to be seen between December and February, but sightings are rare these days.
Mess Pantai arranges night turtle-watching trips (150,000Rp per person). Rangers gather up the eggs shortly after they are laid and rebury them in a fenced-off zone in order to stop wild pigs digging up and eating all the eggs.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are guesthouses on the Sukamade plantation and in Rajegwesi, but these are some distance from the beach. There are basic meals available in villages fringing the park, but it’s best to bring food with you.
Mess PantaiBUNGALOW$
(%033-133 5535; r with shared/private bathroom 150,000/250,000Rp)
Set among patches of forest and agricultural land 700m behind Pantai Sukamade, Mess Pantai is a basic but peaceful place to stay in the park. Unfortunately, any romance the place might have is countered by the generally run-down state of the rooms and piles of rubbish… If you can, bring a tent and camp deeper in the park.
8Information
The park is wet for much of the year as the coastal mountains trap the rain. Visit in the dry season from April to October, because the road into the park fords a river, which easily floods. Even in the dry season you may have to wade across the river and walk into the park.
The park’s office (%0331-321530; www.merubetiri.id; Jl Sriwijaya 53; h8am-3pm Sun-Fri) in Jember has plenty of information; entrance to the park costs 150,000Rp.
8Getting There & Away
Meru Betiri can be a tough place to reach, even by 4WD. Roads are rough and you have to ford rivers in some places. The most direct way to Sukamade from Banyuwangi or Jember is to first take a bus to Jajag, then a minibus to Pesanggaran (12,000Rp, one hour), where you’ll probably have to change and get in another to Sarongan (10,000Rp, around one hour), a small town with warungs and stores where you can stock up on supplies. Drivers in Sarongan will try their hardest to get you to charter a 4WD. Ojeks to Sukamade (around 120,000Rp) can be arranged here, but generally only in the dry season; during the wet season the rivers are impassable. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a truck (‘taxi’ in these parts), as the ojek don’t run to a fixed schedule. This should cost 30,000Rp, though foreigners are routinely overcharged. The truck has no problem with swollen rivers unless there is severe flooding. If you can’t find any onward transport to the park from Jajag, an ojek from there to Sukamade will cost around 250,000Rp. It’s a painfully long journey of nearly 60km.
Alas Purwo National Park
Occupying the the remote Blambangan Peninsula on the southeastern tip of Java, Alas Purwo has spectacular beaches, good opportunities for wildlife-spotting, and savannah, mangrove and lowland monsoon forests. Apart from day-trippers and surfers, the park gets few visitors.
Alas Purwo means First Forest in Javanese: according to legend, this is where the earth first emerged from the ocean. Many soul-searchers and mystics flock here during the month of Suro, which marks the Javanese New Year. These pilgrims meditate in caves and pray to Nyai Loro Kidul. Pura Giri Selokah, a Hindu temple in the park, also attracts pilgrims, especially during Pagerwesi, the Hindu New Year.
The huge surf at Plengkung – aka G-Land, on the isolated southeastern tip of the peninsula – forms one of the best left-hand waves in the world, with perfect barrels reeling for hundreds of metres over a shallow reef, and there are surfers aplenty.
1Sights & Activities
Alas Purwo is dominated by lowland coastal forest, but there are few trails by which to explore it. As a result, vast expanses of the eastern park are untrammelled.
You can use Trianggulasi as a base for some interesting short walks. The white-sand beach here is beautiful, but swimming is usually dangerous.
SadenganWILDLIFE RESERVE
Down a spur that branches from the main road just after the Hindu temple, Sadengan grazing ground has the largest herd of banteng (wild cattle) in Java. Keep an eye out for the birds hopping along their backs in a search for ticks and other insects, and lovely herons often glide into the frame. Kijang (deer) and peacocks can also be seen here from the viewing tower. This beautiful meadow, backed by rolling, forested hills, is a 2km walk from Trianggulasi.
NgagelanBEACH
The turtle hatchery at Ngagelan is set in a protected, fenced-off plot behind the beach, where rangers who have collected the eggs keep them piled and dated under the brown sand, shielding them from birds and other predators. The beach itself, where four species of turtles nest – including greens and leatherbacks – is wide, majestic and 18km long. You can see the light-brown sand arc along the coast all the way to G-Land. You can’t swim here, though, as the rip tide is all powerful.
Turtles emerge from the sea under the cover of night, and after they lay their eggs, the rangers gather them and place them in the hatchery where they will gestate for 50 days before hatching and seeking the sea. To get here, it’s a 6km drive from Rowobendo through lowland forest along a rough road, or a 7km walk along the beach at low tide from Trianggulasi. A ranger will gladly show you around, but he won’t speak much English.
Gua Istana & Gua PadepokanCAVE
From Pancur, a trail heads 2km inland through some good forest to Gua Istana, a small cave, and another 2km further on to Gua Padepokan. Both contain Hindu shrines.
GRAJAGAN BEACH
For surfers wanting to avoid the high-end costs of staying in G-Land (Plengkung), an alternative is to base yourself outside the national park at Grajagan Beach. Located around 40km northwest across the bight from G-Land (or 52km south of Banyuwangi), here surfers can instead access the waves by chartering a fishing boat for the day.
Get in touch with Ropik, a friendly local who offers boat trips to G-Land, the cost of which can be split among four people; also, given it doesn’t make landfall, you won’t have to pay national-park fees. You’ll lose valuable surf time commuting to G-Land each day, so consider other, lesser, surf spots around the village itself. Plus you’ll get a more authentic slice of Indonesia than is possible at the surf-bubble resorts at G-Land itself.
For accommodation your best bet is Wana Wisata, located directly on the black sandy beach. The cafe next door isn’t always open, but Wana Wisata’s manager can arrange beers and barbecue fish.
To get to here, you can catch a Jember-bound bus from Banyuwangi to Benculuk (10,000Rp), from where you can arrange a minibus or ojek (passenger motorcycle) to Grajagan (50,000Rp to 75,000Rp).
2Activities
G-LandSURFING
(Plengkung)
Plengkung, known in surfing circles as G-Land or just Grajagan, is one of the planet’s premier surfing spots, and home to three seasonal surf camps. When conditions are good, the left-hander here – which can be further broken down into several often distinct sections, each with its own name and mood – barrels for hundreds of metres over a razor-sharp, shallow reef. This is very much experts-only surf territory, though there are also some beginner waves over a sand-bar bottom.
When it’s firing, there can be 100 people in the water, which sounds overwhelming, but the mob usually strings out to manageable numbers as heads seek waves that suit their skill set. The surf camps offer transport to the waves from a small marina that’s easy to find in the shallows. Swimmers can swim east along the reef from here, though low tide is quite low, so you may need to pick your way through the reef when you come in.
The surf camps are all set about 500m apart from one another in different coves. Bobby’s has the more dramatic setting and offers pagodas and hammocks on the beach. G-Land Jack’s is the furthest up the point. G-Land Joyo’s has a long bench on a rocky outcrop, along with lounges oriented toward the waves and the sunset beyond. Oh yes, those sunsets are absolutely magical!
You are in a raw and wild part of the world now. There are leopards often caught on game cameras, and one ranger swears he once saw a tiger with her cub. The jungled coastline certainly looks like something out of Jurassic Park. No wonder G-Land is the stuff of surf legend.
Joyo’s Fishing TripsFISHING
(www.g-land.com; G-Land; half-day US$60)
TTours
There are three surf camps at Plengkung (G-Land): Bobby’s, G-Land Joyo’s and G-Land Jack’s. The surfing packages usually include boat transfers from Bali, accommodation and meals. Though it is possible to make your way here under your own steam, it’s important to book ahead to make sure the camps have room for you. There is no other place to stay.
Grajagan Surf CharterSURFING
(%0853 3092 9851, 0813 5808 0565; kenrofish72@gmail.com; 4-person boat trip US$120)
Based outside the national park is this boat-charter option that makes trips to G-Land from Grajagan Beach, about 45km northwest from Alas Purwo. Owner Ropik speaks good English, and can arrange fishing and eco trips to the mangroves. He’s also a good source for local surf spots.
4Sleeping & Eating
National-park campsites are dusty and lack shelter from the wind and the road. We don’t recommend them.
The G-Land (Plengkung) surf camps usually have three-night minimums, but if you arrive with your own transport, you may be able to negotiate a single night or two. Contact them in advance to check, though.
From Trianggulasi, the nearest warung (meals 10,000Rp) is at Pancur, where there are also simple rooms (100,000Rp per person). In the G-Land surf resorts carb-heavy meals are included in the price, as is a beer or two.
Wana WisataGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 4397 3873; Grajagan Beach; hr with fan/air-con from 200,000/250,000Rp; a)
Not actually in G-Land but over the bay in Grajagan Beach (outside the national park) is this laid-back losmen, which overlooks an attractive black-sand beach. The spartan fan rooms are around the back with no views, so it’s worth upgrading to the beach-facing bungalows if you’re seeking added comforts such as air-con. Only very basic English is spoken.
G-Land Jack’s Surf CampSURF CAMP$$$
(%bookings in Bali 0361-472 9102; http://g-landjacksurfcamp.com; G-Land; 3-night package cottage fan/air-con US$550/725)
With its prime location in front of (arguably) the best part of the reef, plus a multi-level watch tower for sundown beers and wave-watching, Jack’s (formally known as Raymond’s) is a classic. Accommodation is in three levels of comfortable wooden bungalows. In the cheapest rooms, you might be sharing with another guest. Meals, transfers and beers included in the price.
G-Land Joyo’s Surf CampSURF CAMP$$$
(%0812 380 5899, bookings in Bali 0817 939 9777; www.g-land.com; 3 nights incl food & transport from Bali from US$625; aW)
Joyo’s has steadily upped its game over the years. It has good-quality thatched wooden bungalows with fan or air-conditioning, a large-screen TV for sports, pool tables, internet access and table tennis. It also offers free yoga, as well as fishing trips, and the crew who run the place are a blast. Price includes all meals and a free ration of three beers per day.
Bobby’s Surf CampSURF CAMP$$$
(%bookings in Bali 036-175 5588; www.grajagan.com; G-Land; 3-night packages US$640; aiW)
Right opposite the waves, this attractive camp has three standards of bungalow in shady grounds with a restaurant and bar. It has beach volleyball, ping-pong and pool tables, and boat and fishing trips can be arranged. Set back from the beach, in the jungle, the best nests are the two-storey stilted teak cottages in the trees.
8Information
The usual park entry is by road, via the village of Pasar Anyar, which has a large national park office (%033-341 0857; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) and interpretive centre. Stop by to check on park accommodation and campsites; alternatively, check with the head office in Banyuwangi. You can also just show up cold, though you should book in with one of the surf camps if you intend to spend the night.
The actual gateway to the park is 10km south along a bad road at Rowobendo where you need to pay your admission fee (10,000Rp per car, 150,000Rp per person). From here it’s 2.5km to Trianggulasi.
8Getting There & Away
Alas Purwo is a pain to get to by public transport. The best way here is to hire a motorbike or car in Banyuwangi; the access roads are poor but usually doable.
By bus, you need to get to Brawijaya bus terminal in Banyuwangi, from where there are buses to Kalipahit (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). Then take an ojek for around 80,000Rp to the park office in Pasar Anyar to check on accommodation, before pushing on to the park. The 12km road from Pasar Anyar to Trianggulasi is badly potholed but is flat and negotiable by car.
If you’re going only for the surf, then speedboat transfers from Bali are generally included in surf-camp fees.
Banyuwangi
%0333 / Pop 116,000
Java’s land’s end is a pleasant, growing city, home to a large number of Osig people, whose roots reach back centuries in southeast Java. Most travellers simply pass through on their way to or from Bali by ferry, but the city does make a reasonable and comfortable base to explore the Ijen Plateau and other national parks along the east coast, and there are a couple of reasonable beaches in the vicinity. The town takes pride in its appearance and is a multiple winner of the ‘Cleanest Town in Indonesia’ award.
Point of clarification: the ferry port for Bali, the bus terminal and the train station are all some 8km north of town in Ketapang, though all transport states ‘Banyuwangi’ as its destination.
1Sights
Pulau TabuhanISLAND
A droplet of creamy white sand, topped with a tuft of scrub, this tiny island set offshore from Java, nearly halfway to Bali, is surrounded by a ring of turquoise shallows with a deep blue drop-off about 50m from shore. You’ll see bait balls, schools of tropical fish and some coral structures. The water is aquarium clear, and from the beach the volcanoes and mountains from Java and Bali are spread out in all directions.
Though the winds can rip (there’s a reason an annual kite-surf contest is held here), it’s possible to camp. If you do, you’re likely to have the place to yourself. Unfortunately, not all island visitors are as considerate to the environment as we know you will be, and there can be quite a lot of rubbish at times. To get here, take a taxi or ojek to the Rumah Apung port, north of the ferry terminal, and hire a boat from there. It’s 400,000Rp to 500,000Rp with bargaining for a round trip.
Blambangan MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl A Yani; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri) F
Located in the same building as the tourist office, this small museum is devoted to culture from the area, with batik and traditional costumes, ceramics and curios. Labelling is a bit hit and miss, but the museum turns up the odd dusty piece of interest.
Hoo Tong Bio Chinese TempleTEMPLE
(Jl Ikan Gurami 54; h6am-10pm)
One of the few sights in Banyuwangi is this dragon-encrusted temple, built in 1784. It’s well worth a peek.
zFestivals & Events
Banyuwangyi FestivalCULTURAL
The Banyuwangyi Festival is a two-month series of music, arts, culture and sporting events organised by the stellar tourist office, and is held on weekends in August and September. The Jazz Festival is one such event; it’s held at the Jiwa Jawa amphiteatre on the slopes of Ijen.
4Sleeping & Eating
Banyuwangi has decent, well-priced accommodation including some boutique-style places. The town is also becoming an increasingly popular base from which to visit Ijen Plateau.
For cheap eats, there are warungs on the corner of Jl MT Haryono and Jl Wahid Haysim. Being on the coast, there are some good seafood options too.
Green Ijen HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0823 3255 5077; greenijen@gmail.com; Jl Opak 7; r incl breakfast with shared bathroom & fan/air-con 125,000/200,000Rp; W)
Easily one of Banyuwangi’s best budget choices is this relaxed, lime-green guesthouse, tucked down a residential street in town. Rooms here are both spotless and comfortable. It’s run by Johan, who’s very helpful and is clued up with all the local tourist info. It’s also the place to arrange good-value Ijen volcano tours (per person 200,000Rp, excluding entrance ticket) to see the ‘blue flame’.
oBangsring BreezeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0823 3126 4847; www.bangsringbreeze.com; Jl Raya Situbondo Km17; r from 1,580,000Rp; paWs)
Quite simply one of the finest hotels in eastern Java. Each of the five rooms here have been individually and tastefully designed – think high ceilings, wood floors, throw rugs, stained driftwood furnishings, Buddhist and Hindu statues and fine art. There’s a gorgeous pool overlooking the sea and Bali’s Menjangan island beyond, and a spectacular volcano rising behind the property.
Hotel Ketapang IndahHOTEL$$$
(%0333-422 280; www.ketapangindahhotel.com; Jl Gatot Subroto; d incl breakfast from 720,000Rp; aiWs)
This lovely resort-style hotel is a peaceful place to stay. Its huge, well-kept rooms and traditional-style cottages are dotted around a sprawling tropical garden, shaded with coconut palms and extending to the sea. The 18m pool is big enough for laps, and has a small bar for pool-side cocktails. It’s 2km south of the ferry terminal.
Warung Bik AtiINDONESIAN$
(%0333-423 165; Jl A Yani 83; mains 27,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
For over 70 years Bik Ati has been perfecting its house special, nasirawon (black beef soup with rice). The secret to the taste is the inclusion of keluak seeds, which (and you might prefer to read this after your meal…) contain cyanide. Fortunately the preparation method ensures that the cyanide all leeches out safely. We lived to tell the tale anyway.
Ikan Bakar PesonaSEAFOOD$
(Jl Sudarso 147; dishes 13,000-45,000Rp; h1-10pm)
A classic Indonesian fish house where the tablecloths are sealed in plastic to easily wipe down the Makassar-style shrapnel after a serious feast. Famous for 10 flavours of crab (get yours Padang style), it also does grilled fish six different ways. Prices are fair and the food is delicious.
8Information
Alas Purwo National Park (%0333-428675; Jl Brawijaya; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri) Head office 2km south of the town centre.
Banyuwangi Tourist Office (%0333-424172; Jl A Yani 78; h7am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri) Helpful staff who speak Dutch and some English, and can organise tours.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Banyuwangi’s tiny Blimbingsari airport is 9km south of the centre. There’s no public transport to the airport; a taxi will cost around 50,000Rp.
Garuda (%0333-415888, 0333-410999; www.garuda-indonesia.com) Offers direct daily flights to Surabaya.
Wings/Lion Air (%0811 1629 876; www.lionair.co.id) Surabaya and Denpasar.
BOAT
Ferries depart around the clock for Gilimanuk in Bali (every 45 minutes, one hour). The ferry terminal is around 8km north of town. The ferry costs 6500Rp for passengers, 24,000Rp for a motorbike and 159,000 for a car (including four pasesengers). Through-buses between Bali and Java include the fare in the bus ticket. Pelni ships no longer call at Banyuwangi.
BUS
Banyuwangi has two bus terminals. The Sri Tanjung terminal is 3km north of Ketapang ferry terminal, 11km from the centre. Buses from here head along the north coast road to Baluran (12,000Rp, one hour), Probolinggo (normal/patas 36,000/60,000Rp, five hours) and Surabaya (54,000/90,000Rp, seven hours). Buses to Denpasar (40,000/70,000Rp, five hours) include the ferry trip.
Brawijaya terminal (also known as Karang Ente), 4km south of town, covers buses along the southern highway to Kalibaru (15,000/22,000Rp, two hours) and Jember (35,000Rp, three hours).
TRAIN
The main Banyuwangi train station is just a few hundred metres north of the ferry terminal. There are about five trains a day to Probolinggo (27,000Rp to 160,000Rp, 4¼ to five hours), four trains to Surabaya (56,000Rp to 170,000Rp, 6¼ to 7¼ hours) and one train to Yogyakarta (94,000Rp, 13 to 14 hours) at 6.30am.
Baluran National Park
Baluran National Park once harboured a diverse range of ecosystems in a 250-sq-km chunk of northeastern Java; though lately development has severely impacted the park, it remains a magical place to visit. Extensive grasslands still cover parts of the park, providing grazing for banteng (wild cattle), various deer and water buffalo, and the savannah-like terrain is vaguely reminiscent of East Africa.
1Sights
Baluran is home to hundreds of Timor deer and banteng, plus sambar deer, muntjac deer, two species of monkey and wild boars. Visit in July and August and you might see male Timor deer rutting for breeding rights.
Bird life is also excellent, with green peafowl, red and green jungle fowl, hornbills, white-bellied woodpeckers and bee-eaters all easy to spot.
Pantai BamaBEACH
Fringed by mangroves, the sandy cove of Bama is 4km north of Bekol. It’s a popular weekend retreat for local families, but usually peaceful at other times. Canoes (40,000Rp) and snorkelling gear (60,000Rp) can be hired.
Watch out for the cheeky long-tailed macaques here, who are not averse to violently mugging you for any food you might be carrying (if they do get too close for comfort, rangers advise that lifting up a stick as if readying to hit them will see them scarper).
2Activities
BekolHIKING
From the PHKA office on the highway, it’s 14km down a flat gravel track to Bekol. The friendly rangers here look after a couple of lodges and can act as guides (150,000Rp per half-day). You don’t need a guide to hike along a well-maintained trail to Pantai Bama (1½ hours), which follows a riverbank where deer are common.
On the hill above the guesthouses at Bekol, there is a viewing tower that provides a panoramic view over a 300-hectare clearing. Banteng and deer can be seen here, and wild dogs can sometimes be seen hunting, usually in the early morning.
4Sleeping
Most visitors tend to come as part of a day trip, so accommodation is often available, but it pays to book ahead in the peak June-to-August holiday period.
Park BungalowBUNGALOW$
(r 100,000-400,000Rp)
The park has limited bungalow accommodation. Pantai Bama is the preferred location as you’re right on the beach and it’s better set up for visitors. There is accommodation available in concrete bungalows and a warung for cheap meals (mains 9000Rp to 22,000Rp) and drinks. The rooms are functional, but perfectly comfortable and the views over a beach bookended with mangroves is perfect.
Rosa’s EcolodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0815 7443 5105; www.rosasecolodge.com; Ds Sidomulyo RT 03/03; r incl breakfast 450,000Rp; ai)
Rosa’s spacious rooms have woven bamboo walls, private bathrooms and shady front porches. The place is geared towards guests who join its Baluran tours (750,000Rp), and priority is given to groups during busy times. It’s on the northern edge of the park in the village of Sumberwaru. Buffet-style meals of tasty Javanese food are served here.
8Information
You’ll find the PHKA office (%0823 3221 3114, 0333-461936; http://balurannationalpark.web.id; Wonorejo; h7.30am-4pm) on the coastal highway in the village of Wonorejo, between Surabaya and Banyuwangi. Guides can be booked for around 250,000Rp per day. Entrance costs 150,000Rp on a weekday and 225,000Rp on weekends and holidays. An extra 10,000Rp is charged for a car.
Baluran can be visited at any time of the year, but the dry season (June to November) is usually the best time because the animals congregate near the waterholes at Bekol and Bama.
8Getting There & Away
A regular stream of Surabaya–Banyuwangi buses all pass right by the almost hidden park entrance. From Banyuwangi it’s a one-hour journey (10,000Rp). Coming from the west, Baluran is four hours from Probolinggo. PHKA rangers at the entrance can arrange an ojek (around 40,000Rp) to take you the next 12km to Bekol; the road is in pretty good shape and should be passable by most cars. A 4WD is not necessary.