West Timor
It doesn’t take much for West Timor to get under your skin. A smile in someone’s direction will see their face erupt in one, too. It might reveal teeth stained red from chewing betel; one framed by wrinkles in the rugged countryside; or a yelp and wave from a music-thumping bemo in Kupang – the coastal capital and East Nusa Tenggara’s metropolis.
Within its mountainous, lontar palm–studded land, animist traditions persist alongside tribal dialects and chiefs preserve adat (traditional law) in traditional beehive-hut villages. Hit up one of the many weekly markets and you’ll not only get a feel for rural Timor life, but be the star attraction as you eavesdrop on one of 14 different languages spoken on the island. Although West Timor is a relatively undiscovered gem, you’ll still be welcomed wherever you go.
History
The Tetun (or Tetum) of central Timor are one of the largest ethnic groups on the island and boast the dominant indigenous language. Before Portuguese and Dutch colonisation, they were fragmented into dozens of small states led by various chiefs. Conflict was common, and headhunting a popular pastime.
The first Europeans in Timor were the Portuguese, who prized its endemic cendana (sandalwood) trees. When the Dutch landed in Kupang in the mid-17th century, a prolonged battle for control of the sandalwood trade began, which the Dutch eventually won. The two colonial powers divvied the island in a series of treaties signed between 1859 and 1913. Portugal was awarded the eastern half plus the enclave of Oecussi, the island’s first settlement.
Neither European power penetrated far into the interior until the 1920s, and the island’s political structure was left largely intact. The colonisers spread Christianity and ruled through the native aristocracy, but some locals claim Europeans corrupted Timor’s royal bloodlines by aligning with imported, and eventually triumphant, Rotenese kingdoms. When Indonesia won independence in 1949 the Dutch left West Timor, but the Portuguese still held East Timor. In 1975 East Timor declared itself independent from Indonesia and shortly afterwards Indonesia invaded, setting the stage for the tragedy that continued until 2002 when East Timor’s independence was officially recognised.
During August 1999, in a UN-sponsored referendum, the people of East Timor voted in favour of independence. Violence erupted when pro-Jakarta militias, backed by the Indonesian military, destroyed buildings and infrastructure across the East, leaving up to 1400 civilians dead before peacekeepers intervened. Back in West Timor, the militias were responsible for the lynching of three foreign UN workers in Atambua in 2000, making Indonesia an international pariah. After several turbulent years, relations normalised by 2006 and road and transport links were restored.
Kupang
%0380 / Pop 334,516
Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT). Despite the city’s scruffy waterfront, sprawling gnarl of traffic and the almost complete lack of endearing cultural or architectural elements, this is a place you can get used to. Besides, there are atmospheric markets in the centre, spots to relax beside locals and a smattering of nearby natural wonders. The chaos can be contagious – it’s a university town, after all – even if you’re just popping in and out.
Kupang’s a regional transport hub, but don’t be surprised if between trips to the interior, Alor or Rote you discover that it grows on you. England’s Captain Bligh had a similar epiphany when he spent 47 days here after that emasculating mutiny on the Bounty in 1789.
1Sights
The heart of old Kupang centres on the old port area and its surrounding cacophonous market. Look closely and you’ll see a few traces of Dutch colonial times, when Kupang was considered a genteel tropical idyll.
On Kupang’s west coast, south of the centre, lies a local haunt not often visited by international travellers: Gua Kristal (Crystal Cave; Bolok), the Crystal Cave, where locals swim and partake in photoshoots. If you take the coastal road to get to Gua Kristal, you’ll pass Gua Monyet, the Monkey Cave. It’s well signposted and you’re likely to see monkeys on the side of the road. Unfortunately it seems that they’re drawn to the area more by rubbish than by habitat.
Continue out of Kupang city on Jl Alfons Nisnoni for around 25km to arrive at Pantai Tablolong (Tablolong), which is about 13.5km southwest from the waterfall Air Terjun Oenesu (3000Rp). This lovely beach is a surprisingly pleasant stretch of sand free from Kupang’s city grit.
Pantai TedisBEACH
(map; cnr Jl Soekarno & Siliwangi; snacks/smoothies from 7000/10,000Rp; 
hfrom 5pm)
Don’t miss the atmosphere – or sunset – at this local hangout where Jl Soekarno intersects with the oceanfront. The sand vendors set up stalls and seating, while those in the know chow down on grilled corn and pisang goreng (fried plantain banana), the latter served with chocolate and grated keju (cheese). This is also the best place for smoothies, from mango and dragonfruit to avocado spiked with chocolate sauce.
Museum Nusa Tenggara TimurMUSEUM
(%0380-832471; Jl Frans Seda 64; by donation; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)
This regional museum has skulls, seashells, stone tools, swords, gourds and antique looms from across the province, plus an entire blue whale skeleton in a separate building. Displays (some in English), cover historical moments and cultural topics, including which plants create dyes for traditional fabrics.
THE TIMORESE SPIRIT
Throughout West Timor, but especially on the way to Oelolok from Kefamenanu, you’ll notice cloudy water bottles on rickety wooden shelves on the side of the road. Introducing sopi, the local alcohol made from palm juice. Every family distills theirs a little differently, using various herbs and plants like red wood, wild black pepper and types of mangroves. It takes about five hours to fill eight small water bottles. Many families use the income to send their kids to school, so it would be a shame not to support the cause: it’s 25,000Rp or double for the good stuff. If you want to see the process, simply ask – the family will be surprised but delighted, so long as you buy a bottle or two on the way out.
TTours
Kupang is a gateway to West Timor’s fascinating and welcoming traditional villages. Bahasa Indonesia, let alone English, is often not spoken. The villages can also be a minefield – albeit a friendly minefield – of cultural dos and don’ts. A local guide is essential.
Oney Meda (%0813 3940 4204; onymeda@gmail.com; ½ day tour 300,000Rp) An English-speaking guide with nearly two decades of experience organising anthropological tours and treks throughout West Timor and Alor.
Eben Oematan (%0852 3795 8136; per day from 400,000Rp) Oematan is from Kapan, which means he speaks several dialects spoken in the villages you’ll want to visit.
Edwin Lerrick (%0812 377 0533; lavalonbar@gmail.com; per day from 400,000Rp) The irrepressible owner of Kupang’s Lavalon Bar & Hostel is also a guide, with deep regional knowledge and connections throughout West Timor.
Willy Kadati (%0812 5231 0678; willdk678@gmail.com) Recommended by Lonely Planet in 1995, Willy is back after taking time off as a researcher for various organisations and universities with more cultural, botanic and ikat knowledge than ever.
Aka Nahak (%0813 3820 0634, 0852 346 3194; timorguide@gmail.com) Kefamenanu-based guide Aka has been touring Timor since 1988. He’s enthusiastic with a sense of humour and will proudly show you his handwritten guestbooks.
4Sleeping
Near the airport and the new commercial district there are several large and bland chain hotels, such as the Neo Aston and the Amaris. Properties on the waterfront are more atmospheric and come with ocean breezes, views and sometimes pools. There are budget-friendly homestays, too.
oLavalon Bar & HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0812 377 0533; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; dm from 70,000Rp, r from 100,000-260,000Rp; 
a
W)
Run by living Nusa Tenggara encyclopedia and former Indonesian film star, Edwin Lerrick, Lavalon is Kupang’s best-value accommodation. Rooms are worn but clean (some with Western bathrooms). Pay extra for the corner one with air-con, hot water and a window that opens to the sea. Edwin goes well out of his way to help guests with information and bookings.
Also an avid cook, Edwin has put together a small but tasty menu of specialty Indonesian dishes and Western comfort food, enjoyed in the small common area by the ocean. He also runs the attached (private) visitor information office, arranges cars, motorcycles (75,000Rp per day) and drivers and can advise on onward connections. Phone or message ahead to guarantee a booking.
oSotisHOTEL$$
(%0380-843 8000, 0380-8438 888; www.sotishotels.com; Jl Timor Raya Km3; r from 650,000Rp; W
s)
One of Kupang’s newer, nicer accommodation options, these 88 rooms are stylish with pops of colour instead of the usual beige palette. Expect toiletries, a rain shower, fridge, desk and more. There are two pools (only one is open to the public), a spa, salon, restaurant with live music, bar with pool tables and cake shop. Ask for a sea view.
Hotel La HasiendaHOTEL$$
(%0380-855 2717, SMS or WhatsApp 0812 3841 7459; www.hotellahasienda.com; Jl Adi Sucipto, Penfui; d from 395,000-500,000Rp; aWs)
You’ve got to feel for whoever covered this three-storey, family-run hotel in mosaic tiles. It adds to the Mexican vibe, with a rooftop terrace and bar, faded-ochre walls and cowboy paraphernalia. The 22 rooms are spotless with air-con and hot water and on-site restaurant (mains 25,000Rp to 85,000Rp). Note that it’s closer to the airport than town.
5Eating
As you’d expect, seafood is big in Kupang. Another local specialty is succulent se’i babi (pork smoked over kesambi wood and leaves); it’s used as the base for various sauces, and is served with noodles, rice and plenty of sambal.
oDepot Bambu KuningINDONESIAN$
(%0813 3336 8812, 0813 3910 9030; Jl Perintis Kemerdekaan 4; se’i babi portion/kg 20,000/170,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
A popular place for authentic Kupang se’i babi. Choose from chopped up meat or ribs, both served with rice and a rich pork soup with red beans. Sate and a couple of veg dishes are also available. Check out the outdoor cooking area piled with kesambi leaves for smoking the meat.
oPasar MalamMARKET$
(Night Market; Jl Kosasih; fish from 50,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)
As tiny tailor shops finish up for the day, stallholders begin setting up this lamp-lit market. You’re here for seafood, whether ikan (fish), cumi (squid), kepiting (crab) or udang (prawns), but you can also pick up Indo standards like grilled chicken, bakso (meatball noodle soup) and gado gado for a steal.
6Drinking & Nightlife
As the largest city in a predominantly Christian region, Kupang has decent drinking options. You’ll find karaoke bars on Jl Sudirman and a few ‘pubs’ on Jl Timor Raya.
999 Restaurant & BarBAR
(map Google map; %0380-802 0999; www.999-kupang.com; Jl Tongkol 3; mains 38,000-140,000Rp; h10am-midnight; W)
In the shadow of an old fort, this tropical outdoor bar has an expansive thatched roof, views of the shabby beach and the ever-present sound of rolling surf. There’s a pool table, comfortable repurposed tyre seats, a full bar including plenty of cocktails and a decent menu, too. Regular live music and a full band on Sat nights.
7Shopping
Sandalwood oil is trickier to find than it used to be, thanks to strict regulations that only allow harvest on one’s own land. Some shops still sell it, and the purest oils are upwards of 300,000Rp for a small vial.
Ina NdaoTEXTILES
(%0812 378 5620, 0380-821178; ina_ndao@yahoo.com; Jl Kebun Raya II; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 7-11am Sun)
It’s worth seeking out this neighbourhood ikat shop. Textile lovers will be pleased with the wares sourced from across Nusa Tenggara and you can take home a neat pair of ikat espadrilles. It offers naturally and chemically dyed varieties, and staff demonstrate the weaving process upon request. Accepts credit cards.
Pasar InpresMARKET
(off Jl Soeharto; h4am-7pm)
The main market is the rambling Pasar Inpres, south of the city. It’s mostly fruit and vegetables, but ti’i langga (lontar-leaf hats with a centre plume) from Rote make an authentic, but novel souvenir. For more variety, check out Pasar Oeba off Jl Ahmed Yani, in between Lavalon and Swiss-Belinn, about 1km from each and walking distance to the Pasar Ikan (fish market).
8Information
Kupang has scores of banks and ATMs throughout town.
PT Stindo Star (%0380-809 0583, 0380-809 0584; Jl Urip Sumohardjo 2; h9am-6pm) An efficient travel agency that sells airline tickets.
Siloam Hospital (%1 500 911, 0380-853 0900; www.siloamhospitals.com; Jl R W Monginsidi, off Jl Eltari, Lippo Plaza; h24hr) An upscale hospital attached to the Lippo Plaza shopping mall.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Kupang is the most important hub for air travel in Nusa Tenggara, thanks to El Tari Airport (%0380-882031; www.kupang-airport.com/en; Jl Adi Sucipto). There are frequent flights to Bali and a web of services across the region.
BOAT
Tenau Harbor, 7km west of the centre, is where the fast ferry to Rote and Pelni ships dock. Bolok Harbour, where you get regular ferries to Kalabahi, Larantuka, Rote and Waingapu, is 11km west of the centre.
Pelni (%0380-821944; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Pahlawan 7; h8am-4pm) serves Kupang on a twice-monthly loop that includes Larantuka and Maumere. Its office is near the waterfront.
TRANSPORT FROM KUPANG
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alor Island | Wings Air | ¾ | two daily |
| Bajawa | Wings Air, TransNusa | 1 | two daily |
| Denpasar | Garuda, Lion Air, Nam Air | 1¾ | several daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Garuda, Citilink Indonesia | 3 | several daily |
| Labuan Bajo | Wings Air, Garuda, Nam Air | 1½ | several daily |
| Maumere | Nam Air, Wings Air, TransNusa | 1 | 1-2 daily |
| Tambolaka | Nam Air, Wings Air, Garuda | 1½ | several daily |
| Waingapu | Nam Air, Wings Air | 1 | several daily |
Boat
| DESTINATION | TYPE | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kalabahi | ferry | 116,000 | 15 | noon Tue & Sat |
| Larantuka | ferry | 105,000 | 15 | three weekly |
| Rote | ferry | 55,000 | 5 | 6am daily |
| Rote | Bahari Express | 138,000-168,000 | 2 | 9am daily |
| Waingapu | ferry | 162,000 | 28 | three weekly |
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kefamenanu | 50,000 | 5½ | several times daily |
| Niki Niki | 35,000 | 3½ | hourly 5am-6pm |
| Soe | 30,000 | 3 | hourly 5am-6pm |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Kupang’s El Tari Airport is 15km east of the town centre.
Taxis from the airport to town cost a fixed 70,000Rp. An ojek will cost 30,000Rp. For public transport, turn left out of the terminal and walk 1km to the junction with the main highway, from where bemos to town cost 3000Rp (possibly 5000Rp with a bag).
Going to the airport, take the Penfui or Baumata bemo to the junction and walk.
BEMO
A ride in one of Kupang’s bass-thumping bemos (3000Rp, or 5000Rp with luggage) is one of the city’s essential experiences (Kupang is too spread out to walk). Each bemo has an entertaining Western name, like Man Tap, Cold Play or City Car. Windscreens are festooned with soft toys, girlie silhouettes and Jesus. The low-rider paint job is of the Fast & Furious colourful variety, while banks of subwoofers will have your arse involuntarily shaking. Clap loudly when you want to stop.
Bemos stop running by 8pm. The bemo hub is the Terminal Kota terminal. Useful bemo routes:
1 & 2 Kuanino–Oepura; passing many popular hotels.
5 Oebobo–Airnona–Bakunase; passing the main post office.
6 Goes to the Flobamora shopping mall and the post office.
A 10 Kelapa Lima–Walikota; from Kota Kupang terminal to the tourist office, Oebobo bus terminal and Museum Nusa Tenggara Timur.
Bemos running outside Kupang use names instead of numbers. Tenau and Bolok Harbour bemos run to the docks; Penfui and Baumata bemos link to the airport.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
It’s possible to rent a car with a driver from 750,000Rp to 1,000,000Rp per day, depending on the destination. Motorcycles cost 75,000Rp a day at Lavalon Bar & Hostel, but 100,000Rp or more elsewhere. Your accommodation will be able to organise it for you.
Around Kupang
Baun
Travel 25km from Kupang along a road with a single rough patch and you reach Baun, the heart of the Amarasi kingdom. In the 1970s its people began building roads without government assistance or machines, the deal being that if you worked on the road, you could build your house near it. Robert ‘Robbi’ Koroh, the 20th raja (king), still resides here in a former medical clinic. His palace, Sonaf Baun (%0812 3644 5787; Kelurahan Teunbaun), might not be flash, but he can organise weaving demonstrations, ikat trading and has an impressive fossil collection. Robbi doesn’t speak English but is a wealth of information, so you’ll need a guide to translate if you want to do more than look around.
Visit Baun on a Saturday morning to soak up the atmosphere of the weekly market. If you have a spare 30 million rupiah you can purchase one of Baun’s famous sapi (cows). Be sure to check out Kelompok Tenun Ikat Kai Ne’e (Kai Ne’e Ikat Collective; Kelurahan Teunbaun Kecamatan; hhours vary), a collective of women weavers who use natural dyes and are happy to show visitors around. Don’t leave town without trying the most authentic se’i babi smoked pork in West Timor at Se’i Babi Om Ba’i (500g/1kg pork 80,000/160,000Rp; h6-11am or til sold out), which cooks between 12 and 30 whole pigs daily.
8Getting There & Away
Jump on one of the open-backed utes en route to Baun from Kupang. It’s similar to a bemo and leaves from Pasar Inpres for 10,000Rp. An ojek already heading in that direction starts around 50,000Rp, one way.
Oebelo & Oesao
Oebelo, a small salt-mining town 22km from Kupang on the Soe road, is notable for a unique Rotenese musical-instrument workshop, Sasandu (%0852 3948 7808; Jl Timor Raya; h9am-6pm), that makes and plays traditional 32-stringed harps.
Oesao is another 6km down the road and is a mandatory stop for one marvellous reason: Inzana (Jl Timor Raya; bag of treats 10,000Rp; h4am-10pm), a roadside sweet shop just east of the main market that serves a variety of traditional Timorese kue (cakes). Your driver will know the place.
Between the two lies an opportunity to get off the beaten track and see how palm sugar is made by locals. Don’t leave without tasting the caramelised disks of golden sugar.
8Getting There & Away
The cheapest way to get here from Kupang is by bemo. Bemos with Kupang-Oesao on top of the vehicles go to both Oebelo (22km) and Oesao (30km) and cost 5000Rp and 10,000Rp respectively, one way. If you’ve hired a motorbike, it’s an easy side trip from Kupang.
TIMOR-LESTE VISA RUN
Crossing the border into Timor-Leste is not nearly as complicated or lengthy as it used to be. You can still make the 12-hour, one-way journey to the considerably more expensive Dili for 225,000Rp, but it’s no longer necessary to visit the Indonesia Consulate.
Instead, the easiest way to do the visa run is to cross the border at Napan, just over 20km north of Kefamenanu; Atapupu, which will only cost 50,000Rp by ojek from Atambua; or to catch the bus to Batugade via Mota’ain. Once at the border, present your authorisation letter, US$30, proof of an onward journey and continue with a free 90-day visa. If you’re short on time, you could conceivably catch the 45-minute morning Wings Air flight from Kupang to Atambua, cross the border, and then fly back to Kupang in time for lunch. A one-way flight starts at around 350,000Rp.
But first you need to get an approved visa application letter. Apply at the Timor-Leste Consulate in Kupang with a valid passport, a photocopy of it, passport photos and either proof or return tickets or a bank statement. You’ll receive the letter and stamp within one to three working days. If you attempt this a few days before Christmas, you’re likely to be out of luck as staff go on holiday. Also be aware that the consulate is closed on weekends.
Note that since 2015, some European citizens who fall into the Schengen Agreement can stay in Timor-Leste without a visa for up to 90 days, every 180 days.
Timor Tour & Travel (%0380-881543, 0812 3794 199; Jl Timor Raya Km8, Oesapa) and Paradise Tour & Travel (%0813 3935 6679; Jl Pulau Indah, Oesapa) operate buses. Departures can be as early as 5am, so brace yourself. Call for a hotel pick up or ask Edwin from Lavalon to lend a hand.
It’s also worth checking the daily cost of the visa overstay fine – at the time of writing, it’s 300,000Rp per day, so it’s worth weighing up cost and convenience (accommodation and a bus fare will be more expensive than paying a fine for a couple of days). Check the current price of the fine to avoid being caught out; rumours are circulating that it could jump significantly.
Soe
%0388 / Pop 39,031
About 110km northeast from Kupang, the cool, leafy market town of Soe (800m) makes a decent base from which to explore West Timor’s interior, even if there’s not a lot to see in town. The traditional villages scattered throughout the interior are some of the most intriguing in Nusa Tenggara Timor.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Bahagia IGUESTHOUSE$
(%0853 3830 3809; Jl Diponegoro 22; s/d/VIP r 150,000/200,000/300,000Rp)
Right in the centre of Soe, and not to be confused with Bahagia II on the outskirts, Bahagia I offers a range of rooms from small, dark cubbies to spacious suites. It’s a compact courtyard building with a little breezy terrace, but don’t expect air-con, hot water, wi-fi or English.
If you’re in transit but not staying overnight, you can drop 125,000Rp on a room for two hours of rest. There’s a bank across the road.
Dena HotelHOTEL$$
(%0812 3696 9222, 0388-21616; hotel_dena@yahoo.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk, Pasar Inpres; s/d from 200,000/225,000Rp; a)
Although these beige rooms aren’t about to win design awards, they’re as clean and serviced as they come in Soe. Some have Indonesian toilets, so inspect before you decide. The most expensive have air-con (350,000Rp for a double). It’s across the road from the market, ATM and a great little Padang restaurant.
oDepot RemajaINDONESIAN$
(Jl Gajah Mada; mains from 20,000Rp; h10am-10pm; 
v)
This modest and clean diner specialises in succulent se’i babi, the iconic Kupang pork smoked over kesambi wood. But the fun doesn’t stop there; try the warming pork soup – which is more of a stew – and one of the many veg options, like jantung pisang (banana flower salad).
Warung Putra LamonganINDONESIAN$
(%0823 4096 4969; Jl El Tari; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
You’ll smell this place before you see it, thanks to the grill charring sate out the front. Within the orange walls are a handful of large tables populated by locals digging into grilled and fried chicken, fish, tempe and tongseng, a Javanese stew with goat or beef. The sambal terasi, made with shrimp paste, is addictive.
7Shopping
Timor Art ShopARTS & CRAFTS
(%0853 3783 5390; Jl Bill Nope 17; h6am-8pm)
If you’re interested in antiques and handicrafts, don’t miss this shop that could double as a museum. You’ll find Timor’s best selection of masks, sculpture, hand-spun fabrics and carvings at unbelievable prices. There’s no sign, so call owner Alfred Maku first. He speaks excellent English. Opening hours can vary.
8Information
There are ATMs and banks around town, including a full BNI branch.
Tourist Information Centre (%0368-21149; Jl Diponegoro 39; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri) Has information on the surrounding area and is a good place to arrange guides, should you catch someone there who speaks English.
8Getting There & Away
The Haumeni bus terminal is 4km west of town and 3000Rp by bemo, but people tend to flag down buses on the side of the road instead. Regular buses go from Soe to Kupang, taking three hours and costing 30,000Rp. Knock off half an hour for buses to Kefamenanu and Oinlasi, both 25,000Rp. Bemos cover Niki Niki for 10,000Rp.
WORTH A TRIP
AIR TERJUN OEHALA
Look for a road going north off the main highway, drive 6km and turn east at a sign for ‘Oehala’. After 3km is a parking area, from which it’s a short walk down steep steps to the gushing water of Air Terjun Oehala diffusing over huge boulders in a silvery sheen. The jungle setting hasn’t seen any maintenance for years, but on the plus side it makes the whole thing feel very Jurassic Park. Crowds leave rubbish behind on weekends.
Around Soe
None
POP 238
None is one of the area’s best attractions, despite fires destroying three ume bubu (traditional beehive huts) in as many years. A compact, gravel trail runs for 1km from where the bemo drops you on the main road; so you can walk or drive past corn, pumpkin and bean fields to the entrance. None is home to 56 families that have lived here for 10 generations. Parents still bury their placenta in their hut after childbirth, and the village is protected by a native rock fort that abuts a sheer cliff.
At the cliff’s edge you’ll find a 300-year-old banyan tree and a totem pole where shamans once met with warriors before they left on headhunting expeditions. The wise ones consulted chicken eggs and a wooden staff before predicting if the warriors would prevail. If there was a speck of blood in the egg, a sign of poor fortune, they’d delay their attack.
Villagers might break out their looms at the village lopo (meeting place) for weaving demonstrations upon request. It’s so peaceful here that it’s hard to believe they were taking heads just two generations ago, the last conflict in 1944. You can also arrange for traditional dances. Leave an offering of 50,000Rp for up to a few people.
8Getting There & Away
You can reach None, 18km east of Soe, on an ojek (30,000Rp), or hop on a Soe–Niki Niki bemo for 5000Rp.
TRADITIONAL HOUSES
Central West Timor is dotted with ume bubu (beehive-shaped hut) villages that are home to local Dawan people. Without windows and only a 1m-high doorway, ume bubu can get cramped and smoky. Government authorities deemed them a health hazard and have subsidised cold, concrete boxes, which the Dawan themselves have deemed a health hazard. They’ve built new ume bubu – or rehabbed their old ones – behind the approved houses, and live there.
Oinlasi
We’ll let others speculate about why local governments keep the road to the important market town of Oinlasi in such miserable condition. But the painful drive is worth it, especially on Tuesdays, when a traditional market spreads for more than 400m along a ridge overlooking two valleys. Villagers from the surrounding hills, many of whom wear traditional ikat, descend to barter, buy and sell weavings, carvings, masks and elaborately carved betel-nut containers, along with fruit, livestock, local sweets and some of the worst popular music ever recorded. The market starts early in the morning and continues until 2pm, but is at its best before 10am.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses from Soe cost 20,000Rp and make the 51km, 1½ to two-hour trip along the twisted, rutted mountain road to Oinlasi. Turn south off the main highway at Cabang, which is 5km east of the turn for None.
Kefamenanu
%0388 / Pop 42,840
A former Portuguese stronghold, Kefamenanu is a quiet hill town. Still, it remains devoutly Catholic and has a couple of impressive colonial churches. Most importantly it’s the jumping-off point for Temkessi, one of West Timor’s ‘can’t miss’ villages. Known locally as Kefa, the town lies at the heart of an important weaving region. Prepare to haggle! Note that the town mostly shuts up shop on Sundays.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel AriestaHOTEL$
(%0388-31007; Jl Basuki Rahman 29; r standard/superior/ste 120,000/290,000/385,000Rp; aW)
Set on a leafy backstreet, this long-time budget joint sprawls across 42 rooms in a modern annex and weathered original block. Economy rooms are best avoided, the all-suite annex boasts plenty of light and a private porch, and the midrange deluxe rooms with air-con and hot water have the Goldilocks effect – just right. BYO loo paper.
Rents motorbikes for 70,000Rp per day.
New Victory HotelHOTEL$$
(Hotel Victory II; %0388-243 0090; Jl Kartini 199; r 350,000Rp; W)
The newer of the Victory hotels opened in 2017 with 23 clean rooms with questionably patterned wallpaper, air conditioning, TV, hot water and breakfast included. Strangely, there is an enormous gym and exercise hall here, with Zumba and aerobics. There are plans to double in size.
Rumah Makan Pondok SeleraINDONESIAN$
(Jl El Tari; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; Wv)
A tiny, delicious menu served in a big, dining room space. This rumah makan boasts some of the best tempe and tofu in Nusa Tengarra, a giant serve that comes with lalapan (raw veg nibbles) and sweet, chunky sambal made with fresh tomato. There’s also gado gado and ikan kua asam (sour fish soup).
Rumah Makan Padang 2INDONESIAN$
(%0388-31841; Jl El Tari; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Motorbikes pull up outside this corner Padang restaurant and hint at its popularity. Specialties like ayam rica rica (chicken fried in a sweet, spicy sauce), rendang, boiled cassava leaves and fish curry are piled onto plates in this green-walled establishment. Cool down with sirsak (soursop) juice.
8Information
There are banks and foreign-card friendly ATMs scattered around town, often within walking distance of hotels.
The tourist office, Dinas Pariwisata (%0388-21520; Jl Sudirman; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri), is opposite the field north of the highway and can help locate a guide.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal is in Kefamenanu’s centre, 50m from the Jl El Tari market, which blooms most days. From here between about 6am and 4pm there are regular buses to Kupang (50,000Rp, five hours) and Soe (25,000Rp, two hours); Atambua (20,000Rp) on the Timor-Leste border is only 20,000Rp and 1½ hours away.
Hotel Ariesta rents motorbikes for 70,000Rp per day. Rental cars in Kefa cost 650,000Rp per day with driver.
Timor Tour & Travel (%0388-243 0624; Jl Ahmad Yani) You can join express minibuses running between Kupang (95,000Rp, five hours) and Dili in Timor-Leste (180,000Rp, 7½ hours). Tickets are sold at an office 4km east of the centre on the main highway; pick ups are made at hotels.
Around Kefamenanu
Maslete
Just 3.5km from Kefamenanu is this traditional village and sonaf (palace). Made from wood carved with mythical birds and an imposing grass roof with hanging dried corn, you’ll find the king sitting on his sheltered porch. Although his eyes are cloudy blue from blindness and he doesn’t speak English (‘We are like the cow and buffalo talking,’ he might observe) a guide will translate as you’re quizzed by the Catholic animist about life in your part of the world.
Temkessi & Around
Accessible through a keyhole between jutting limestone cliffs, 50km northeast of Kefa, Temkessi is one of West Timor’s most isolated and best-preserved villages. The drive across wind-swept ridges, with distant views out to sea, sets the otherworldly mood, but upon arrival you’ll be met by giggling children and perhaps a puppy or piglet.
Back along the road from the main highway, 19km from Kefa, Maubesi is home to the Kefa Regency’s best textile market (Maubesi). Market day is Thursday, when along with produce, animals and pottery, ikat is displayed beneath tamarind trees. If you’re not passing by on a Thursday, Maubesi Art Shop (%0852 8508 5867; hhours vary) has a terrific selection of local ikat and handicrafts.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses run from Kefa to Manufui, about 8km from Temkessi. On market day in Manufui (Saturday), trucks or buses should run through to Temkessi. Otherwise, charter an ojek, or better, secure your own wheels.
Rote
A slender, rain-starved limestone jewel with powdery white-sand beaches and epic surf, Rote floats southwest of West Timor, but has an identity of its own. For tourists it’s all about the surf, which can be gentle enough for beginners and wild enough for experts.
Ba’a, Rote’s commercial centre, is a sleepy port town on the west coast where fast ferry and flights land, but people don’t tend to linger. Stunning Pantai Nemberala is home to the world-renowned T-Land break, and there are dozens of hidden beaches to the south and north. To find them you’ll roll through villages, over natural limestone bridges and through undulating savannah that turns from green in the December to March wet season to gold in the dry season, which is also when offshore winds fold swells into barrels. Don’t overlook the tiny offshore islands where you can find gorgeous ikat, turquoise bays and more surf.
8Information
Internet access is sparse, but you can get 3G data in some places, including Nemberala.
There’s a BRI ATM in Ba’a but it usually refuses foreign cards. Bring plenty of rupiah as exchanging cash is difficult.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Wings Air operates flights between Kupang and Ba’a twice daily. They take 30 minutes and the afternoon flight allows for a same-day connection from Bali, although transporting surfboards can complicate the transfer and add to the costs (Wings Air charges 200,000Rp per board).
BOAT
The swiftest and most comfortable way to reach Rote is via the Baharai Express (executive/VIP 138,000Rp/168,000Rp, two hours), a fast ferry that departs from Kupang at 9am daily (and sometimes at 2pm between Wednesday and Monday), docks at Ba’a and returns at 11am. Book your ticket in advance and arrive at the dock at least half an hour early. Be warned, this service is often cancelled due to rough seas.
There’s also a daily slow ferry (55,000Rp, five hours) that docks at Pantai Baru, north of Ba’a, but by the time you charter transport to Nemberala, it will cost you more than the fast ferry.
8Getting Around
Local touts will try to convince you that to get to Nemberala from the fast-boat port in Ba’a you’ll have to charter a bemo (from 300,000Rp, two hours). This is only a good option if you are sharing with a group, but just outside the harbour gates you can easily flag down a public bemo (with/without surfboard 100,000/50,000Rp). You can also arrange with your hotel for a car to pick you up for about 400,000Rp.
Many of the resorts offer transfer packages from Kupang’s airport via the fast ferry and on to the resort. These are undeniably seamless, but can cost US$100 or more.
Once you’re in Nemberala, hire a motorbike (100,000Rp per day) through your hotel or guesthouse, and explore.
Nemberala
Nemberala is a chilled-out fishing village on an exquisite white-sand beach. It’s sheltered by a reef that helps form the legendary ‘left’, T-Land. Don’t expect an isolated vibe here as an influx of visitors, expats and vacation home owners have bought up large swatches of beachfront in the area. New businesses are opening to serve these devotees.
Still, Nemberala hasn’t gone all flash: the local pigs, goats, cows, chickens and other critters still freely wander the beach and resorts, and you still need to avoid getting conked on the head by a falling coconut. Explore the surrounding lonely limestone coast by motorbike in order to absorb its majesty.
2Activities
The T-Land wave gets big, especially between June and August, but it’s not heavy, so the fear factor isn’t ridiculous. Like other once-undiscovered waves in east Indo, the line-up gets busy in the high season. If you prefer a heavier, hollow wave, your first stop should be 3km north of Nemberala at Suckie Mama’s.
Many resorts rent high-quality boards from about 100,000Rp per day.
4Sleeping
The surf season peaks between June and September. Accommodation range and value are solid, but there aren’t a lot of rooms – book ahead.
While most of the lodges and guesthouses are all-inclusive, some local warungs have appeared, so you have options to vary your vittles.
Ti RosaBUNGALOW$
(%0823 3915 2620; per person incl meals from 250,000Rp)
Run by sweet Ibu Martine and her son, this fine collection of eight lime-green, concrete bungalows is super clean, shaded by palms and is the cheapest beach option available. Budget surfers love it so much, some book rooms for the whole season. Turn right at the first intersection in town, and head north along the dirt road for 500m.
Anugerah Surf & Dive ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%0811 382 3441, 0813 5334 3993; www.surfdiverote.com; s/d incl meals from 565,000/904,000Rp; s)
The 40 cute and compact lontar-palm bungalows range from newish to older, and come with a variety of patios and mandis, wooden furniture, outdoor bathrooms and more. It’s right on the beach opposite T-Land. The restaurant, with ikat tablecloths, serves ikan bakar (grilled fish) amid a menu that changes daily. Reserve ahead during surf season.
Scuba diving is also offered; per person, all gear included is 1,470,000Rp for two dives.
oMalole Surf HouseSURF CAMP$$$
(%0813 3776 7412, 0813 5317 7264; www.rotesurfhouse.com; s/d per person incl 3 meals from US$105/126; a
iW)
Built by surf legend Felipe Pomar, this lodge blends comfort, cuisine and style better than anywhere else in Rote. Four rooms are set in a large wooden house and guesthouse with day beds, ikat bedspreads, limitless laundry and more. You’ll hit the right waves at the right time via three boats. Closed during wet season; mid November to March.
Sublime international seafood is but one highlight of the kitchen, which carves fresh sashimi, bakes fresh bread, and blends spectacular soups and curries. Mountain bikes, fishing trips and island excursions are also on offer.
The level of comfort and elegance here feels effortless (it isn’t) and belies its extremely remote location.
Villa SantaiBUNGALOW$$$
(%0812 3941 4568; www.surfroteisland.com; per person s/d incl meals from 1,400,000/1,200,000Rp)
Hugely popular for its highly personalised service, this small resort has four bungalows. The top one has sweeping views of powdery white sand and T-Land, to which unlimited surf transfers are free. The food is fresh, local and copious. There’s a full bar and many end their day with a G&T sundowner, soaking up the surf action.
Of the four bungalows, one can accommodate up to four people and another has two bedrooms, a lounge, kitchen and outdoor living area.
Nemberala Beach ResortRESORT$$$
(%0813 3773 1851; www.nemberalabeachresort.com; surfers/nonsurfer per person from US$190/170; as)
Right on the ocean, this relaxed four-star, all-inclusive spot has a total of eight rooms in four spacious slate-and-timber bungalows with outdoor baths and freshwater showers. There’s a swimming pool, spa, volleyball court, pool table and a terrific beach bar. Join the daily yoga classes on the beachfront deck. It’s closed from 1 December to 1 March.
There’s a speedboat to whisk you out to nearby surf breaks, and excursions to limestone caves and tidal lagoons are also on offer. Fishing trips for dog-toothed tuna and mackerel can also be arranged.
Around Nemberala
If you rent a motorbike and drive the spectacularly rutted coastal road north or south, you’ll notice that you’re within reach of a half-dozen other desolate beaches and a few superb, uncharted surf breaks. Beginners take note: just north of the Nemberala fishing-boat harbour is a terrific novice break called Squealers.
The village of Boni lies about 15km from Nemberala, near the northern coast, and is one of the last villages on Rote where traditional religion is still followed. Market day is Thursday.
About 8km south of Nemberala, Bo’a has a spectacular white-sand beach and consistent off-season surf. Set on a notch in the headland that bisects this absurdly wide and beautiful bay, Bo’a Hill Surf House (%0822 7771 7774, 0822 7771 7775; www.surfrote.com; per person incl meals from 800,000Rp) 
S has beautiful bungalows set on a three-hectare site with stunning views. The eco-cred is strong here. The owner grows fruit and herbs, raises pigs and ducks, collects honey, and is a superb guide to local delights on land and sea.
From Bo’a continue south over the dry rocky road – look out for monkeys – and after you traverse the natural limestone bridge, negotiate the descent and reach Oeseli village. Then make a right on the dirt road, which leads to another superb beach with some good waves, and a huge natural tidal lagoon that shelters local fishing boats and floods limestone bat caves. There’s an ideal kitesurf launch here, too.
The southernmost island in Indonesia, Pulau Ndana, can be reached by local fishing boat from Nemberala. Although it’s currently a military camp it can still be visited, but for years it was uninhabited. Legend has it that the entire population was murdered in a 17th-century revenge act, staining the island’s small lake with the victims’ blood. Today Ndana is known for its wildlife and superb snorkelling. Look out for wild deer and a wide variety of birds, as well as for nesting turtles on the beaches.
Pulau Ndao has more powdery white-sand beaches, limestone bluffs and a tidy, charming ikat-weaving, lontar-tapping (collecting nirah sap from lontar palm tree flowers) fishing village that’s home to nearly 600 people who speak their own indigenous dialect, Bahasa Ndao. There are some fantastic swimming beaches up the west and east coasts, and good though inconsistent surf off the southern point.
Ndao is 10km west of Nemberala. To get here you’ll have to charter a boat (800,000Rp to 1,000,000Rp, maximum five people). You could easily combine a visit here with nearby Pulau Do’o, a flat spit of pale golden sand with terrific though finicky surf. You can see Do’o from Pantai Nemberala.
Sumba
%0387
There’s something truly enchanting about Sumba. With its rugged, undulating savannah and low limestone hills growing maize and rice, it’s nothing like Indonesia’s northern volcanic islands. Scattered throughout the countryside are hilltop villages with tall, symbolic grass roofs clustered around megalithic tombs, where nominally Protestant villagers still respect indigenous marapu (spiritual forces) with bloody sacrificial rites.
Encircling Sumba are white-sand beaches that are the stuff of dreams, as are the island’s secret swimming spots and waterfalls further inland. Throw in some of Indonesia’s most prized ikat (patterned textiles) and the annual Pasola festival and you have one of the most diverse islands in Indonesia where adat runs deep and small children with big smiles shout ‘hello mister’, irrespective of gender.
One of Indonesia’s poorest islands, an influx of investment has seen villages swap thatched roofs for tin. Traditional dress is reserved for special occasions and remote villagers expect generous donations from visitors.
8Getting There & Away
Sumba’s links to greater Indonesia are ever-improving. Airports in Tambolaka and Waingapu have daily flights to Denpasar (Bali), Kupang (West Timor) and Ende (Flores). Ferries run to Flores, Kupang and Sape in Sumbawa. Time your travel so you can fly into Waingapu and out of Tambolaka – or the other way around – so you don’t have to double back when exploring sizeable Sumba.
Waingapu
%0387 / Pop 34,811
Waingapu is a laid-back town with a split personality: there’s the leafy, dusty centre interspersed with accommodation and small toko (stores), the old harbour that becomes redolent with the smell of grilled fish after sundown when the Pasar Malam kicks off, and villages in the middle of it all, where chickens bolt between marapu tomb stones adorned with carved crocodile and deer statues.
Waingapu also has some ikat stores and workshops, and traders lugging bundles of textiles and carvings hang around hotels touting for rupiah. It’s a mostly walkable place, and you’ll spot grazing buffalo and horses as you explore. Since becoming an administrative centre after the Dutch military ‘pacified’ the island in 1906, Waingapu remains Sumba’s main trading post for textiles, prized Sumbanese horses, dyewoods and lumber.
TTours
Erwin PahTOURS
(%02 813 3933 7971; erwinpah9@gmail.com)
If you need a knowledgable driver and guide, look no further than Erwin Pah. Based in Waingapu, he has his own car and seems to know everyone in Sumba. If you’re into adventure, ask him about tailored trips that include everything from rock climbing to caving. His daily rate is 1,200,000Rp, including transport, petrol and guiding services.
SUMBA’S BEST WEBSITE
A true labour of love by German Matthias Jungk, www.sumba-information.com is a vast compendium for all things Sumba. You can buy a pdf version of the website for €5. Jungk has also created a superbly detailed and accurate map of Sumba. Best of all, this invaluable resource is continually updated.
4Sleeping
Breakfast and free airport transfers (if you call in advance) are usually included in accommodation rates. There’s a decent range of options and budgets, from rooms with a view to rooms in the village.
Mr. R. Home StayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0853 3744 6164; Kandara Belankang SMP Kristen; r 200,000Rp; a)
A plain, clean guesthouse with an out-of-place dolphin water feature, overlooking a rice paddy with grazing buffalo. There are six rooms with air-con, TV and long pillows to hug should you get lonely. If you’re lucky, the hot water will be working.
oMorinda Villa & RestoCABIN$$
(%0812 379 5355; freddy_ikat@yahoo.com; Bendungan Lambanapu; r from 650,000-750,000Rp)
About 11km south of the airport and perched on a hill, Morinda Villa has five cabins with eye-popping views. Each has a traditional grass roof, huge windows and a balcony for views of the river. There’s hot water, a restaurant (mains 25,000Rp to 100,000Rp, open 11am until 9pm) and an ikat shop on-site.
oPraikamarru Guest HouseBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 3809 3459; www.prailiu.org; Jl Umbu Rara Meha 22; r/bungalow 250,000/275,000Rp)
Run by an Australian who married a local king and now welcomes guests into village life. Stay in one of two, spacious bamboo bungalows with alang alang grass roofs, comfortable beds with ikat throws and even a fridge; or in one of two basic rooms (shared squat toilet) in a traditional house with bamboo mats and a people-watching porch.
Padadita Beach HotelHOTEL$$
(%0812 3899 5246; padaditabeachhotel@gmail.com; Jl Airlangga Padadita; r/ste from 465,000/1,000,000Rp; aW)
As a newer hotel, some staff are more helpful than others and the grounds need greenery. But beyond that are 65 sparkling rooms with hot water and wooden furniture, the best with ocean views. There’s beach access, a restaurant serving buffet breakfast (mains 25,000Rp to 75,000Rp) and free airport transfers. Rooms are much better value than suites.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
AIR TERJUN TANGGEDU
Northwest of Waingapu is arguably Sumba’s best waterfall (Tanggedu Waterfall). Expect to spend two hours or more making the 60-or-so-km journey along roads that leave a lot to be desired, followed by a 40-minute walk through savannah or grasslands, depending on the time of year. What awaits will blow you away: two rivers run between time-layered limestone cliffs and converge into waterfall terraces that feed into multiple pools.
5Eating
oPC CornerINDONESIAN$
(%0387-256 0142, 0812 2317 1725, 0852 3702 8401; lusijowin@gmail.com; Jl Radamata 1; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 4-10pm Sun; W)
Pause for a photo in front of the bohemian ‘dream big, work hard, stay focus’ mural before continuing up stairs to this open-air cafe with vintage furniture and dreamcatchers. Eat veg dishes like papaya flower with kangkung (water spinach) and free-range kampung chicken. There’s a band from 7pm on Saturday, a killer view and charging points at every table.
oPasar MalamINDONESIAN$
(Night Market; off Jl Yos Sudarso; mains from 15,000Rp; h6-11pm)
The best dinner options turn up at dusk: a couple of warungs and half a dozen gas-lit carts at the old wharf grill and fry seafood on the cheap. In the centre of town at the southern fork of Jl Ahmad Yani are more street eats, like sate ayam (chicken satay) and bakso (noodle soup), from 10,000Rp.
Mr CafeINDONESIAN$
(%0852 5341 0000, 0387-61605; sarmanse@ymail.com; Jl Umbu Tipuk Marisi 1; mains 15,000-45,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Join workers on comfy plastic chairs and order from a large selection of Indonesian dishes. Although locals recommend fried tofu and tempe, the rawon (a fragrant beef soup with a complex broth) is an experience worth having. An offshoot, Mr Bakery, opened next door in 2017 (baked goods 8000Rp to 15,000Rp). Don’t miss sirsak (soursop) juice.
Leslie CafeINDONESIAN$
(%0821 4698 5678; Jl Lalamentik; mains 25,000-60,000Rp; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
This small restaurant with a wooden bar, tables and some rattan lounge chairs is plastered in framed quotes that will make you laugh and cringe. A pizza and burger make a cameo on the small Indonesian menu and there’s a laundry service available for 8000Rp per kg.
7Shopping
There’s a few ‘art shops’ selling Sumbanese ikat and artefacts. Vendors also squat patiently all day outside hotels. Prices are fair, and there’s more choice here than in the countryside. East Sumbanese is renowned across East Nusa Tengarra for having some of the most detailed ikat motifs – buy here before venturing west, where it can look more basic.
Praikundu Ikat CentreTEXTILES
(%0812 3758 4629; kornelis.ndapakamang@gmail.com; Jl S Parman, Kelurahan Lambanapu; hhrs vary)
This small weaver’s centre is 2.5km off the main road, sticking to the left fork. Run by Kornelis Ndapakamang, it’s hung with some of Sumba’s most prized ikat, all naturally dyed with detailed motifs. Kornelis will happily chat in Bahasa Inondesian, explaining how his members are keeping Sumbanese traditions alive. Lengthier ikat workshops available upon request.
There are also three rooms available in the on-site homestay. The cost is 200,000Rp per night, per person. Rooms share a clean squat toilet and mandi. Kornelis’ wife cooks traditional meals for 60,000Rp a pop.
Ama TukangTEXTILES
(%0812 3622 5231; Jl Hawan Waruk 53; h24hr)
A series of rooms and houses championing ikat and jewellery, where guests can see everything from motif design to colouring and weaving. The collection features marapu, animals and village scenes – all hung on display beside dried corn in the rafters. There’s also decent accommodation from 250,000Rp per night.
To get here, head south of the bridge on the southern side of Waingapu and turn right onto the street.
8Information
There are several ATMs around town.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport is 6km south on the Melolo road. A taxi into town costs a standard 60,000Rp, but most hotels offer a free pick up and drop-off service. It’s 5000Rp for a bemo ride to any destination around town, and 10,000Rp to the western bus terminal, although there are fewer than there used to be. An ojek around town is between 5000Rp to 10,000Rp.
TX Waingapu (%0821 4509 5477, 0812 1718 1930, 0387-61534; www.txtravel.com; Jl Beringin 12; h8.15am-5pm Sun-Fri, to 4pm Sat) is a travel agency that books airline tickets.
BOAT
Pelni ships leave from the newer Darmaga dock to the west of town but their ticket office (%0387-61665; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Hasanuddin 1; h7am-noon, 1.30-5pm) is at the old port. Schedules are subject to change: check with ASDP (%0214-288 2233; www.indonesiaferry.co.id; Pelabuhan Waingapu) or see the timetables at the port.
TRANSPORT FROM WAINGAPU
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denpasar | Nam Air, Wings Air | 1½ | 1-2 daily |
| Kupang | Nam Air, Wings Air, TransNusa | 1 | 2-3 daily |
Boat
| DESTINATION | COMPANY | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aimere (Flores) | ASDP | 81,000 | 10 | two weekly |
| Ende (Flores) | ASDP | 83,000 | 13 | weekly |
| Kupang (West Timor) | ASDP | 176,000 | 28 | three weekly |
| Sabu | ASDP | 97,000 | 12 | weekly |
BUS & BEMO
Bemos from Waingapu’s Terminal Kota run to Londolima and Prailiu.
Three daily buses head northwest to Puru Kambera (15,000Rp to 20,000Rp, one hour). There are also several daily buses to Waikabubak (50,000Rp, five hours).
The terminal for eastbound buses is in the southern part of town, close to the market. The West Sumba terminal, aka Terminal Kota, is about 5km west of town.
8Getting Around
Sumba has some of the highest car-rental rates in Nusa Tenggara. Even after bargaining, 800,000Rp is a good price per day, including driver and petrol. Expect to pay more if you want your driver to double as a guide – 1,200,000Rp is a good price. As is the case across Indonesia, bargaining is acceptable and multi-day tours are great leverage. Virtually any hotel can arrange motorcycle rental but Praikamarru Guest House has the best rate at 75,000Rp per day; expect to pay around 100,000Rp elsewhere.
East Sumba
Southeast of Waingapu in dry, undulating savannah interspersed with cashew orchards are several traditional villages, some with striking ancestral tombs. This area produces some of Sumba’s best ikat. Most villages are quite used to tourists, but it’s hit and miss as to whether there are people around when you visit. Either way, it’s appropriate to donate at least 20,000Rp. Be prepared for plenty of attention from handicraft vendors.
Praiyawang & Rende
Nestled in a shallow valley between grassy hills, Praiyawang is a traditional compound of Sumbanese houses and the ceremonial focus of the more modern village of Rende, located 7km south of Melolo. It has an imposing line-up of nine stone-slab tombs, the largest is that of a chief of this former kingdom. Shaped like a buffalo, it consists of four stone pillars 2m high, supporting a monstrous slab about 5m long, 2.5m wide and 1m thick. Two stone tablets stand atop the main slab, carved with figures. A massive Sumbanese house with concrete pillars faces the tombs, along with a number of rumah adat (traditional houses).
Within the tombs, it’s permitted to bury siblings together, and grandchildren and grandparents, but the deceased can’t be buried alongside their parents. Crocodile statues represent the king, turtles are only seen on women’s tombs and cockatoos and horses are symbols of democracy and ruling.
Air Terjun Waimarang is a waterfall south of Melolo and inland from Praiyawang, and so best visited at the same time as the village. You can hit up Praiyawang on the way back to Waingapu. It’s a smooth road to get to this stunning Sumbanese waterfall, followed by around 8km of bumps before arriving at the car park. Pay a nominal fee for leaving your vehicle, before walking for around 20 minutes on challenging terrain to reach a startlingly blue pool in the middle of the jungle, surrounded by limestone walls. Bring your camera, avoid weekends and come early.
8Getting There & Away
Several buses go from Waingapu to Rende (20,000Rp), starting around 7am. The last bus back to Waingapu leaves at 3pm.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
WERA BEACH RESORT
About 39km east of the airport, this French-run resort (%0812 3758 1671; www.sumbaeastresort.com; Jl Melolo, Pantai Wera; bungalow/house from 750,000/1,500,000Rp) and a slice of heaven is a peaceful oasis with two houses. Interiors are pristine white, decked out in rattan furniture and have kitchens; they’re available as one-or two-bedroom stays and the two bedder can sleep five. There’s also a neat, bamboo bungalow on the beach. The open-air restaurant (mains 45,000Rp to 220,000Rp) serves French food while wind chimes tinkle in the breeze.
Kalala
Kalala, 125km from Waingapu and 2km down a dirt road from the nearby village of Baing, is a special part of Sumba, seemingly only discovered by surfers. It’s an absolutely stunning stretch of white-sand beach that arcs toward the coastal mountains, which tumble down to form East Sumba’s southernmost point. Waves break 500m offshore.
Sumba Adventure Resort (%WhatsApp 0812 3999 2865, WhatsApp 0811 386 2905; www.sumbaadventureresort.com; Jl Biang, Wula Meca Suar, Wula Biang; camping/cabin per person from 150,000/400,000Rp; W) is a secluded place 2km east of Kalala Beach on a wide strip of sand where pigs frolic and harvested seaweed dries in the sun. There are two, basic A-frame bamboo huts, an open-walled bungalow and spacious family option with mosquito nets and an outdoor shower. Fabulous food is 150,000Rp per day per person. Don’t miss out on quad biking.
The team can organise surf, snorkel, fishing, cruising and hiking trips, but if you pay 850,000Rp per person they’ll throw in all meals, surf and snorkel gear during your stay. There’s a discount of 20% for the second person onwards. Transport from Waingapu airport is between 600,000Rp to 900,000Rp.
8Getting There & Away
Several buses go to Baing each day from Waingapu, taking four hours and costing 40,000Rp. The road is sealed all the way but is bumpy past Melolo. A dirt track with many branches runs from Baing to Kalala. Buses will sometimes drop you off at the beach, if you ask.
South Central Sumba
It’s worth toughing out access issues to get to this part of the island, especially if you’re a keen surfer. Although there are daily buses from Waingapu to Tarimbang and trucks to Praingkareha, getting around may require a 4WD, motorcycle and even some hiking.
If you’re looking for deserted waves, check out Pantai Tarimbang, a life-altering crescent of white sand framed by a massive limestone bluff 95km southwest of Waingapu. The beach thumps with terrific surf, there’s snorkelling nearby and beach-shack accommodation is available at Marthen’s Homestay (%0852 8116 5137; Jl Gereja Tarimbang; dm/s/d incl all meals from 300,000/400,000/700,000Rp). The kepala desa had just started building a traditional village accommodation concept when we last visited, set to offer three, seven-room houses and a bungalow.
West Sumba
%0387
If you’re hungry for traditional Sumbanese culture, head west into the rice fields that crawl up blue mountains, carved by rivers and sprouting with bamboo and coconut palms. Kampung of high-roofed houses are still clustered on their hilltops, surrounding the imposing stone tombs of their ancestors. Rituals and ceremonies involve animal sacrifices and can take place at any time. Outsiders are welcome, but make a donation – your guide will know how much (usually 20,000Rp to 50,000Rp). Even though kampung seem accustomed to visiting foreigners, gifts of betel nut help warm the waters and are a sign of respect.
West Sumba is most easily traversed and experienced with a guide, especially if you don’t speak Bahasa Indonesia. In the west, locals get around with giant knives called parang strapped to their waist, but it’s mostly for show. Still, it is ill-advised to travel after dark in West Sumba.
Waikabubak
%0387 / Pop 28,760
A country market town, home to thatched clan houses and rows of concrete shops, administrative buildings and tin-roof homes sprouting satellite dishes, Waikabubak makes Waingapu feel like a metropolis. It’s a welcoming place, surrounded by thick stands of mahogany and lush rice fields. At about 600m above sea level, it’s cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of West Sumba.
The food market is on daily from 7am until 10pm. On your way here from Waingapu, about 15km out of town, look out for Bukit Raksasa Tidur (Sleeping Giant Hill) – no prizes for guessing what the landscape looks like, but it’s a great photo opportunity.
1Sights & Tours
Within the town are some friendly and quite traditional kampung (villages) with stone-slab tombs and thatched houses. You can tell the wealthier families by the detail and intricacy – or otherwise – of the tombs. You don’t need a guide here if you’re just looking around. Locals are happy to show off their spacious homes lashed with old ironwood columns and beams. Some children mug for the camera, others giggle and disappear around corners. Old folks will offer betel nut. Bring your own to share and offer a donation (minimum 20,000Rp to 50,000Rp).
Kampung Tambelar (map Google map; off Jl Sudirman), just off Jl Sudirman, has very impressive kubur batu (stone graves), but the most interesting kampung are on the western edge of town. It’s only a short stroll from most hotels to Kampung Prai Klembung (map Google map; off Jl Manda Elu) and then up the hill that juts from the centre of town to Kampung Tarung (map Google map; off Jl Manda Elu) and Kampung Waitabar (map Google map; Jl Manda Elu).
Other interesting kampung occupying ridge or hilltop positions outside town include Praijing, with traditional huts set around some cool, primitive stone tombs and surrounded by coconut palm and bamboo groves. Bondomarotto, Kampung Prairami and Kampung Praikateti are also beautifully located on adjacent hilltops. You can take a bemo to the turn-off for Praiijing (5000Rp).
Yuliana Leda TaraTOURS
(map Google map; %0822 3621 6297; yuli.sumba@gmail.com; Kampung Tarung; per day from 500,000Rp)
A wonderful local English- and French-speaking guide who lives in Tarung – Waikabubak’s traditional hilltop village – Yuliana can organise village tours throughout West Sumba, where she finds out about funerals and sacrifices, takes horse tours through rice fields and can arrange village stays. Book ahead and note that her guide fee excludes transport.
VISITING VILLAGES
Many Sumbanese villagers are now accustomed to tourists. If you’re interested in their weavings or other artefacts, the villagers put you down as a potential trader. If all you want to do is chat and look around, use basic manners and ask first, or risk them being confused or offended. Often the tables turn, and you might feel under the microscope.
On Sumba, offering pinang (betel nut) is the traditional way of greeting guests or hosts. You can buy it at most markets in Sumba, and it’s a respectful ice breaker. Offer it to the kepala desa (village head) or to whoever gives you their time.
Many villages keep a visitors’ book, which villagers will produce for you to sign, and you should donate between 2000Rp to 5000Rp per person, placed in the book when signing and handed back. Hiring a guide to isolated villages is a big help and offers some protection from falling into the wrong situation. Take the time to chat with the villagers to be seen as a guest, rather than a customer or visiting alien.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mona Lisa CottagesGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 3943 0825, 0387-21364; Jl Adhyaska 30; s from 200,000, d from 300,000-750,000Rp; aW)
Named after a disco in Surabaya from the owner’s party days, the best night’s sleep is 2km northwest of town opposite rice fields. It includes fan-cooled budget rooms, higher-end units, and freshly renovated cottages with peaked tin roofs, private patios and bamboo furnishings. Some have air-con.
Rumah Makan FannyINDONESIAN$
(%0387-21389; Jl Bhayangkara 55; mains 20,000-50,000Rp; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
A pint-sized Waikabubak staple, favoured for flavourful but crazy-spicy ikan kuah assam (tamarind fish soup) – one is enough to feed two. It also has assorted Chinese-Indo seafood dishes and a house special fried chicken. There’s a BNI with an ATM across the road.
D’Sumba AteINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0812 3868 3588; Jl Ahmad Yani 148A; mains 30,000-80,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)
This cool, bamboo restaurant cooks up wood-fired pizzas, pasta and burgers alongside the usual Indo suspects. If you know what’s good for you, you’ll eat ayam betutu kampung dan urap, a Balinese-spiced village chicken with plenty of condiments and coconut greens. It’s also the only place in town where you’ll get a latte fix.
Take the wooden bridge over the pond to Kakitangan Spa, a simple operation by the same folk with massages from 50,000Rp per hour.
7Shopping
Traders gather at hotels with ikat from East Sumba, jewellery and various carvings. Kampung Tarung is known for beaded jewellery, which you can easily find on a walk through the village.
8Information
BNI Bank (%0387-21549, 0387-321540; Jl Bhayangkara 48; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-4pm Fri) Has an ATM and offers fair exchange rates.
8Getting There & Away
Tambolaka, about 45km northwest of Waikabubak, has the closest airport. A bus to the terminal at Waitabula (an older town being swallowed by Tambolaka) and a bemo or ojek from there is the cheapest option, but most people get a taxi from Waitabula or charter a bemo (around 150,000Rp) from Waikabubak.
Bemos, trucks and minibuses service most other towns and villages in West Sumba. Generally, it’s best to leave early in the day, when they tend to have more passengers and depart quickly, as opposed to waiting until they’re full. There are several daily buses to Waingapu (60,000Rp, five hours).
Waikabubak is the place to rent a motorcycle for exploring West Sumba. Expect to pay 100,000Rp per day. Hotels can set you up with motorbike or car rental. The latter costs 500,000Rp with a driver if you’re sticking to town, otherwise it’s from 800,000Rp to 1,000,000Rp.
Tambolaka
%0387
Located 45km northwest of Waikabubak, this once sleepy market town has become West Sumba’s main transport hub – it’s booming and the name of the airport, Tambolaka, has been transferred to the rest of town, including in tourism brochures and other government literature. We’ve followed suit, even if many locals still refer to it as Waitabula. While still in the early stages of growth, Tambolaka is easily accessible from Bali, and is the gateway to the island’s sensational western half.
1Sights & Tours
Tambolaka has a daily market opposite Hotel Sinar Tambolaka (%0387-253 4088; www.sinartambolaka.com; Jl Tambolaka; r 200,000-450,000Rp, 1-bed villa 750,000Rp; aWs).
Lembaga Studi & Pelestarian Budaya SumbaMUSEUM
(Rumah Budaya Culture House; %0813 3936 2164; museum by donation; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Just 3km west of town, this Catholic-run NGO is in a working coconut plantation and has an excellent cultural museum. It was developed by Fr Robert Ramone, who noticed how, once baptised, Sumbanese frequently break clean from their old culture and develop negative associations with the marapu and other totems. There are displays of old photographs, money, pottery, ikat, stone carvings and more.
The complex also has 10 basic rooms for rent (300,000Rp to 600,000Rp). Sit on one of the private porches and let the quiet envelop you. An ikat museum opened on-site in 2018.
Sumba Adventure Tours & TravelTOURS
(%0813 3710 7845; www.sumbaadventuretours.com; Jl Timotius Tako Geli 2; guide services per day 300,000Rp, car & driver per day 800,000-1,000,000Rp; h8am-5pm)
With an office close to the airport, experienced guide Philip Renggi and his team of guides lead trips into seldom-explored villages, including his native Manuakalada and Waiwarungu, where there are several sacred marapu houses that only shaman can enter. He can arrange itineraries, set you up for Pasola, rent cars and more. Look for his office near Rumah Makan Richard.
WORTH A TRIP
WEEKURI LAGOON
Almost as far west as you can get on Sumba is one of the island’s most magical spots, Weekuri Lagoon. On one side, locals and tourists rent black rubber rings for 10,000Rp and float in the cool, crystal water; on the other, the Indian Ocean rages against rocks and bursts through cracks and blowholes, best viewed from the bisecting bridge. Allow at least half a day to enjoy it, a bargain at 20,000Rp per person. It’s about 45km from Tambolaka.
There are more than half a dozen small, dirt roads leading off Jl Waitabula-Bondokodi that eventually get you to the aquamarine waters of this jaw-droppingly beautiful wonder. There are vendors selling cup noodles, coconuts and other snacks, but avoid purchasing bracelets illegally made from turtle shells.
4Sleeping & Eating
New hotels are shooting up in Tambolaka, a contrast against more timeworn guesthouses. There are some pleasant, quiet – and in some cases more expensive – options 20 minutes outside of town.
Penginapan MelatiGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 5396 6066; Jl Sapurata; r with fan/air-con 175,000/250,000Rp; aW)
With 14 simple rooms that are much cleaner than the gloomy fish tank in reception, you can expect plenty of images of the host family, Virgin Mother and Il Papa to brighten things up. There are rain shower heads in the bathrooms and a Padang-style restaurant next door.
Look for the green and orange stripes in lieu of signage.
oOro Beach Houses & RestaurantBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 3911 0060, WhatsApp 0813 3978 0610; www.oro-beachbungalows.com; Weepangali; villa/bungalow 665,000/850,000Rp) S
Think: four wild beachfront hectares where you can nest in a circular thatched bungalow with canopied driftwood beds and outdoor bathrooms. Oro offers excellent meals, mountain bikes and snorkelling (50,000Rp each) just off their stunning 200m-long beach. There are six rooms, including two bungalows with air-con and fan-only beach houses and villas. Motorbikes available for 150,000Rp per day.
oMaringi Eco Resort by Sumba Hospitality FoundationRESORT$$$
(%0822 366 15505; www.sumbahospitalityfoundation.org; Jl Mananga Aba, Desa Karuni; pavilions/deluxe r 1,000,000/1,500,000Rp; aWs) S
Where to start with this incredible complex: that it’s a not-for-profit NGO where students from Sumba learn the art of hospitality before landing top hotel jobs in Indonesia? Or the brilliantly designed bamboo pavilions with giant glass oval doors and outdoor bathrooms? Maybe its sustainability, reusing water in the garden and harnessing solar. This is so much more than accommodation.
Mario Hotel & CafeHOTEL$$$
(%0813 3939 0337, 0823 1220 1571, 0812 3971 0000; www.mariohotel.net; Pantai Kita, Mananga Aba; r 850,000-950,000Rp; ais)
Drastic upgrades to the property accompanied the arrival of electricity here in 2017. Twelve rooms face the beach, while two cheaper rooms in traditional houses with outdoor bathrooms have more space and character. The restaurant (mains from 40,000Rp, open 7am to 9pm) overlooks a pool with inbuilt lounges, surrounded by bougainvillea and frangipani.
WarungkuINDONESIAN$
(%0812 5250 5000; Jl Ranggaroko; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
Set back from the main road in a walled compound, this open-air restaurant, complete with water feature and karaoke, has excellent versions of Indo classics. It’s a pretty garden setting, and you can while away a few hours grazing and sipping jus semangka (watermelon juice).
Warung Gula GaramINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0387-252 4019, 0812 3672 4266; gulagaramsumba@gmail.com; Jl Soeharto; mains 26,000-110,000Rp; h10am-10pm; W)
Run by expat Frenchman Louis, this open-air cafe near the airport plays funky-fresh R & B tunes and serves surprisingly good wood-fired pizza, plus other Western dishes like chicken cordon bleu and sausages with mash and veg. There’s also good Indo fare, like locally approved beef rendang, and more than passable coffee and juices. Stay tuned for a new venue.
WEST SUMBA BEACHES
The beaches on West Sumba’s south coast remain largely undiscovered, except by surfers in search of the perfect break and those with deep pockets staying at Nihi Sumba (%0361-757149; www.nihi.com; bungalows & villas from US$845; aWs). The world-class surf spot known as Occy’s Left, featured in the film The Green Iguana, is on Pantai Nihiwatu, an achingly stunning stretch of sand buffered by a limestone headland. Unfortunately only Nihi Sumba’s guests are allowed onto it and the number of surfers is capped at 10. Thankfully homestay owners are experts on where to find the best lefts and rights, with more scattered along the coast. That being said, you might be able to get to Occy’s anyway if you stay with Petu from Sumba Sunset Home Stay (%0852 0591 7662, WhatsApp 0821 47546538; www.sumbasunset.com; Kerewe Beach; per person incl meals 400,000Rp).
From Pantai Nihiwatu, the magic starts at Pantai Wanokaka’s craggy palm-dotted cliffs, a bay bobbing with fishing boats and a beachfront Pasola site. Here most of the action gathers around the concrete public fishers house, where you can see the catch in the morning and watch fishermen mend nets come late afternoon. Rua, the next in a series of luscious south Sumba beaches, is 10km southwest of the Padede Weri junction, or continue along the road from Waeiwuang Village until you hit the coast. Expect more lovely pale golden sand, turquoise water and great waves when the swell hits between June and September.
Heading west again, the road passes through the village of Lamboya, with rice fields scalloped into the inland side of the rugged coastal mountains and a Pasola field set on rolling grassland that attracts thousands of people in February. From here there’s yet another turn-off south to surf hotspot Pantai Kerewe and the glassy seas of Pantai Tarakaha. Here you’ll find Magic Mountain if you know where to look – a coral-draped, underwater volcano that is Sumba’s best dive site. Next is Pantai Watubela (Patiala Bawa, Waikabubak), another nearby beach with perfect sand and limestone caves. Further along the coast are the idyllic white sands of Pantai Marosi, about 35km from Waikabubak.
8Information
BNI Bank (Jl Jenderal Sudirman; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-4pm Fri) Has an ATM and exchanges money.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Tambolaka’s airport is shiny and modern. There are daily flights to Denpasar in Bali and Kupang in West Timor with Garuda, Nam Air and Wings Air. Note that on some airline and booking websites the destination is listed as ‘Waikabubak’.
BOAT
Waikelo, a small and predominantly Muslim town north of Tambolaka, has a little, picturesque harbour that’s the main port for West Sumba and offers a ferry service to Sape in Sumbawa (52,000Rp, three weekly). It takes nine hours.
BUS
Buses leave throughout the day for Waikabubak, which takes an hour and costs between 15,000Rp to 20,000Rp, departing from the centre of town.
Wanokaka
%0361 / Pop 14,163
The Wanokaka district south of Waikabubak has stunning mountain scenery, coastline and several traditional kampung. It’s a gorgeous drive from Waikabubak taking a sealed, narrow road that splits at Padede Weri junction, 6km from town. This is where white-headed eagles soar over mountains that tumble to the azure sea. Turn left at the junction and the road passes through the riverside settlement of Taramanu, 5km further on.
Downhill from Taramanu is Kampung Waigalli on a promontory above the sea, and beyond that a nearly 200-year-old Watu Kajiwa tomb in the deeply traditional village of Praigoli.
Take the right fork before Sumba Nautil and you’ll reach Litikaha, where a gravel road leads to the panoramic villages of Tokahale, Kahale and Malisu. It’s a 15-minute 4WD drive, or park on the road and walk to all three in about two hours.
8Getting There & Away
A few buses run between Waikabubak and the many Wanokaka villages, but by far the best way to visit the area is by car or motorbike. Most roads are sealed and traffic is minimal. The hills south of Waikabubak are a taxing yet exhilarating ride for cyclists, but travelling by any vehicle in West Sumba at night is not recommended.
Pero
Pero is a small Muslim fishing village with a natural harbour inlet sheltered by a sandbar and mangroves. It tends to waft with racks of squid drying in the sun outside fisherman shacks, but the beach just north of town has blonde sand, a palm-and-scrubby-grass backdrop and a sneaky left-hand break just offshore, as well as ideal side shore wind for kitesurfers. From here to the west, you won’t hit land again until Africa. To visit traditional kampung, go north or south along the coastline.
The long-running Homestay Stori (%0813 3943 3906; per person incl all meals 150,000Rp) is owned by a hospitable family and has four rooms available in a frayed concrete home with peeling linoleum floors and shared slimy mandis out the back. But, hey, it’s cheap. Around the corner (and run by the same family) is a nicer option: Merzy Home Stay (%0813 3780 3613, 0813 3755 7272; hatijahstory@gmail.com; Kodi Pero; per person incl all meals 250,000Rp). There are eight rooms in a cacophony of patterns, but only one with a private toilet and mandi, the rest share three.
From Tambolaka there are frequent bemos and trucks to Pero.
Ratenggaro
One of Sumba’s best villages and most famous spots is close to Pero. Kampung Ratenggaro is known for its prime real estate position on a grassy bluff above a river with breathtaking views of the sea. Across the river you’ll spot Wainyapu and on the way to Ratenggaro, the roadside tombs of Kampung Ranggabaki and Kampung Paronambaroro through the trees.
The remarkable village hasn’t had much luck: in 1964 a fire burnt 57 traditional houses to the ground, while another in 2004 flattened 13 more. Government assistance helped to rebuild the 12 houses (and make them a tourist hot spot). They’re supported by intricately carved columns, one for each cardinal point. Bapa Lucas is the man in charge, and he’s all too happy to share his knowledge, translator permitting.
8Getting There & Away
Take the paved road from Bondokodi, or go off-road for about 3km along Pantai Radakapal – a sliver of white sand along a pasture – and you’ll come to the kampung of Ratenggaro, framed by a low rock wall.