Flores
Flores, the island given a pretty but incongruous Portuguese name by its 16th-century colonists, has become Indonesia’s Next Big Thing. The serpentine, 670km Trans-Flores Hwy runs the length of the island, skirting knife-edge ridges, brushing by paddy-fringed villages, and opening up dozens of areas few tourists explore.
The island is a cacophony of smells, swinging between coffee roasting in the hills, clove cigarettes, exhaust fumes and the unmistakable scent of the ocean. In the west, Labuan Bajo is a booming tourist town combining tropical beauty with nearby attractions such as Komodo National Park, superb dive spots and white-sand islands.
The east is attracting a number of travellers chasing smouldering volcanoes, emerald rice terraces, prehistoric riddles, exotic cultures, hot springs and hidden beaches. Away from the port towns most people are nominally Catholic. Many more are part of cultures dating back centuries, living in traditional villages seemingly unchanged in millennia.
8Information
Foreign aid money has funded a string of useful tourist offices in key towns across Flores. Their enthusiastic assistance is backed by an excellent website (www.florestourism.com), free town maps and several publications well worth their modest prices, including a huge, detailed island map and books covering activities and culture.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
You can easily get flights connecting Flores and Bali, Lombok and Kupang (West Timor), among other destinations. Labuan Bajo is the main gateway, while Maumere and Ende are also serviced by daily flights. It’s easy to fly into Labuan Bajo, tour the island, and fly out of Maumere. Be aware that the booming popularity of Flores means that flights are booked solid at peak times.
BOAT
Daily ferries connect Labuan Bajo with Sape (Sumbawa), while weekly services go to Bira (Sulawesi) and Pulau Jampea (Sulawesi). From Larantuka (Flores), three weekly ferries go to Kupang (West Timor). From Ende, weekly boats will take you to Waingapu (Sumba) and Kupang (West Timor).
8Getting Around
The Trans-Flores Hwy, the spine of the island, twists and turns through beautiful countryside and skirts photogenic volcanoes, but don’t make the mistake of taking Google maps’ estimated journey times as gospel.
The improving roads mean that more and more visitors are hiring motorcycles in Labuan Bajo and heading east. This can cost from 75,000Rp per day plus petrol. It’s not for the faint of heart: riding can be hazardous and exhausting.
Regular buses run between Labuan Bajo and Maumere. They’re cheap and cramped. Much more comfortable and only somewhat more expensive are public minibuses (often a Toyota Kijang), which link major towns in air-con comfort.
Many travellers hire a car and driver, which costs from 800,000Rp to 1,200,000Rp per day, depending on English-speaking and tour-guiding capabilities. If you have a group of six, this is a fair deal. Many drivers also work as guides and can arrange detailed, island-wide itineraries. Your accommodation will usually be able to recommend someone reliable, but stop for a bite or drink anywhere in Flores and you’re likely to meet someone who will recommend a friend.
Based in Labuan Bajo, Andy Rona is an excellent driver and guide, who has a network of reliable colleagues.
BOAT TOURS BETWEEN LOMBOK & FLORES
Travelling by sea between Lombok and Labuan Bajo is a popular way to get to Flores and you’ll glimpse more of the region’s spectacular coastline and dodge the slog by bus across Sumbawa. Typical three- and four-day itineraries take in snorkelling at Pulau Satonda or Pulau Moyo off the coast of Sumbawa, and throw in a dragon-spotting hike on Komodo or Rinca.
These are no luxury cruises – a lot depends on the boat, the crew and your fellow travellers. Some operators have reneged on ‘all-inclusive’ deals en route, and others operate decrepit old tugs without life jackets or radio. Plus this crossing can be hazardous when seas are rough.
Most travellers enjoy the journey though, whether it involves bedding down on a mattress on deck (recommended) or in a tiny cabin. The cost for a three- to four-day itinerary ranges from about US$170 to US$400 per person and includes all meals, basic beverages and use of snorkelling gear.
Other considerations:
A Carefully vet your boat for safety.
A Understand what’s included and not included in the price. For instance, if drinking water is included, how much is provided? If you need more, can you buy it on the boat or do you need to bring your own?
A Taking snacks is a good idea as food might only be available during meal times.
A If you are flexible, you can often save money by travelling west from Flores, as travelling eastwards is more popular. Look for deals at agents once you’re in Labuan Bajo.
Providers include:
Kencana Adventure Offers basic boat trips between Lombok and Labuan Bajo with deck accommodation as well as cabins that sleep two.
Perama Tour & Travel Runs basic boat trips between Lombok and Labuan Bajo with deck accommodation as well as small two-person cabins.
Labuan Bajo
%0385 / Pop 3000
This dusty, enchanting harbour town is perpetually being upgraded to cope with more travellers. The jumping off point to see prehistoric dragons at Komodo National Park and be awed by world-class diving, those who stay a little longer fall in love with ‘Bajo’, attested to by a healthy expat community.
Everything you need is located on one-way Jl Soekarno Hatta, which is crammed with Western restaurants, local rumah makans and plenty of accommodation, travel agents and dive shops. The waterfront bustles with daily life, and connections to other parts of Indonesia are effortless.
A sparkly new marina and five-star AYANA resort opened in 2018 and with more luxury accommodation confirmed by 2021, Labuan Bajo, the capital of Manggarai Barat regency, is officially no longer a low-key fishing town. As one local said when referring to a popular bar, “It’s getting busy in Paradise.”
2Activities
Labuan Bajo’s pristine coastline is mostly occupied by hotels, making excursions to nearby islands essential day trips for snorkelling and lounging on palm-fringed beaches. Pantai Waecicu is on Bajo’s mainland, where you can snorkel around the tiny islet of Kukusan Kecil. Pulau Bidadari (Angel Island) has crystalline water filled with fish and baby sharks. Pulau Seraya and Pulau Kanawa have postcard-perfect beaches and resorts taking advantage of them, while Pulau Kalong is home to thousands of flying fox bats, active from dusk. Travellers with more time won’t regret staying on a liveaboard boat and island hopping further out from Labuan Bajo.
Diving & Snorkelling
With impressive muck diving and coral sites within 1½ hours of Bajo, scuba opportunities abound well before Komodo National Park. But beneath the surface of Komodo lies one of the world’s most biodiverse marine environments: vibrant reefs, mangroves, sand banks and drop-offs to teeming deep-water habitats supporting thousands of species of tropical fish, turtles, marine mammals, crustaceans and more.
Outstanding sites include: Batu Bolong, a tiny island surrounded by coral walls where you might see Napoleon wrasse and white-tip sharks; Sebayur Kecil, an almost current-free site where parrotfish, cuttlefish and blue spotted rays are common; Karang Makassar (Manta Point) offers guaranteed sightings of graceful manta rays during rainy season from December to March; Siaba Besar, known as Turtle Town for its local residents; and Crystal Rock, where advanced divers navigate the soft coral-covered sea mount spotting sharks and larger fish.
A agreement between members of the Dive Operators Community of Komodo (DOCK) ensures similar prices: 1,650,000Rp for three dives on a day trip is a common rate, as is 5,500,000Rp for a three-day Open Water Diver certification. Many shops also offer Divemaster and specialty courses.
Dive operators line Jl Soekarno Hatta. It’s best to shop around, but not always possible to survey the equipment and boats before making a decision. Ask plenty of questions and request to see photographs – staff should produce answers and a good gut feeling, but bring anything you deem essential.
Snorkelling trips are also available (around 700,000Rp for three sites and a visit to the dragons). Your hotel will rent snorkelling gear or know who does. Local shops loan masks and fins for around 60,000Rp per day. July and August is peak season but in March, April and September visitor numbers thin and diving is magical.
Flores Diving CentreDIVING
(map; %0822 4791 8573, 0812 3880 1183; www.floresdivingcentre.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; day trip/eco-dive from 1,650,000/750,000Rp; 
h8.30am-7.30pm) 
S
Offers all of the usual daily dive trips, courses and liveaboard safaris (on an impressive steel boat), but with the addition of an eco-dive – a not-for-profit initiative where people participate in a clean-up dive before two fun dives outside the national park.
Divine DivingDIVING
(map Google map; %0813 5305 2200; www.divinediving.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; day trips from 1,350,000Rp; h6.30am-8pm) S
Manta RheiDIVING
(map; %0812 9025 0791, 0821 4440 1355; www.mantarhei.com; Jl Soekamo Hatta 16; day trips from 1,650,000Rp; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-7.30pm Sun)
The only dive centre promising Belgian waffles after a day in the water, Manta Rhei specialises in themed day trips (Crazy Shark Day, Manic Manta Day, etc.) and PADI courses. Nitrox dives and pinisi (Sulawesi schooner) liveaboard (from 4,500,000Rp per person, per night), complete with hot tub, also available.
Uber ScubaDIVING
(map Google map; %0813 3961 9724; www.uberscubakomodo.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 3-dive fun dive 1,650,000Rp; h8.30am-8pm)
This dive shop is one of the best riding the wave of ever-increasing visitor numbers. Besides an extensive range of fun dives and courses, it offers all-inclusive liveaboard diving packages (three nights, 10 dives for US$815). The liveaboard, day-trip boats and a speedboat – that accompanies the day-trip boats as an extra safety measure – are company owned.
Blue MarlinDIVING
(map Google map; %0385-41789; www.bluemarlindivekomodo.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; day trips from 1,400,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
Most dive schools in Bajo teach the basics in the ocean, but Blue Marlin makes a splash with the town’s only purpose-built dive pool. Day trip from a 15m-long custom fibreglass boat, or take Toby the speedboat and arrive at dive sites before the crowds.
There’s a restaurant and bar onsite (mains 36,000Rp to 60,000Rp) and accommodation (dorms from 150,000Rp, doubles from 950,000Rp).
Wicked DivingDIVING
(map Google map; %0812 3964 1143; www.wickeddiving.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 3-/6-night trips from US$685/1125; h9am-7pm) S
Wicked offers popular multi-day liveaboard excursions, scouring the best dive sites on a pinisi (Sulawesan schooner). It also acts as an agent, organising day trips through local operators. The company wins plaudits for nurturing local guides and divers, promoting strong green practices and giving back to the community.
Komodo Dive CenterDIVING
(map Google map; %0811 3897 007, 0812 3630 3644; www.komododivecenter.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; day trips from 1,350,000Rp, 4-day liveaboard from €750; h7am-7pm)
Offers a full range of day trips, multi-day tours and PADI courses. Promotes use of nitrox and extensive range of gear rentals. Do your due diligence from the beanbags on the wooden porch.
Current JunkiesDIVING
(www.currentjunkies.com; 5-day, 5-night liveaboards from US$995)
Liveaboard trips reserved for thrill-seekers. Current Junkies doesn’t shy away from Labuan Bajo’s infamous currents; it dives into them for a chance to see pelagics. Five-day, five-night trips include 14 dives with a maximum of four experienced divers (five if you charter). Online bookings only.
Massage & Spa
oYayasan Ayo MandiriSPA
(map Google map; %0385-41318; www.yam-flores.com; Jl Puncak Waringin; 60/90min massages 150,000/180,000Rp; h9am-12.30pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat)
A not-for-profit foundation that trains locals with disabilities ranging from vision to physical impairment in massage therapy, providing employment to an otherwise marginalised community. The quality of treatments rivals other spas in town. Visit for acupressure, hot stone and reflexology massages; manicures and pedicures; facials and more. Look for the big red ‘massage’ sign.
TTours
Alongside dedicated tour companies in Labuan Bajo, there are drivers that plan and lead trips. Budget between 800,000Rp to 1,200,000Rp per day – the price rises with guide qualifications and English-speaking capability.
Andy RonaTOURS
(%0813 3798 0855; andyrona7@gmail.com)
An excellent guide and driver with a network of reliable colleagues and a penchant for reggae. He will point you in the right direction if he’s booked up. Contact him by WhatsApp or email.
Wicked AdventuresADVENTURE
(map Google map; %0812 3607 9641; www.wickedadventures.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 1-day kayak trips from US$100; h9am-7pm) S
An offshoot of the recommended Wicked Diving and located beneath it, this group runs kayak trips with local guides in Komodo National Park. Other adventures include Wae Rebo hikes and trips to Wicked’s turtle conservation camp on a south Flores beach. Ask about their Wicked Good community and environment initiatives.
4Sleeping
It seems every week there’s a new place to stay in Labuan Bajo. Even so, during July and August travellers can outnumber beds, so book well ahead. Accommodation is concentrated around the centre of town. Don’t settle for neglected hostels when spiffy new ones are the same price. Lush hotels are mostly outside the main drag, but if budget allows, nearby island resorts make for private paradises.
4Central Area
oCiao HostelHOSTEL$
(map; %0852 2038 3641; www.ciaohostel.net; Jl Golo Silatey, off Jl Ande Bole; dm 160,000-230,000Rp; 
a
W)
Labuan Bajo’s best hostel has spacious ocean-view dorms with four to 12 beds – the latter in the popular, open-air room with panoramic vistas and mosquito nets. There’s plenty to love: the free shuttle to town and the airport, the rooftop bar, Pida Loca Reso (mains 47,000Rp to 85,000Rp), voting for nightly movies and Flores’ friendliest staff. If only breakfast was included.
One Tree HillHOSTEL$
(%0812 4644 6414; onetreehill360@gmail.com; Jl Verhoeven, Pantai Klumpang, Desa Batu Cermin; dm with fan/air-con from 125,000/155,000Rp; aW)
This 56-bed hostel from Tree Top should really provide transfers into town, but it’s a must-visit for anyone with wheels. With both sunset and sunrise views, colourful wooden rooms summit at the open-air, beanbag-filled Tre360 Bar (4pm to 8pm weekdays, to 10pm weekends). Breakfast isn’t included but there’s a common kitchen. Limited wi-fi at the bar.
The PalmHOSTEL$
(map; %0812 9655 2231; www.facebook.com/thepalmkomodo; Jl Puncak Waringin; dm 200,000Rp; a
s)
Peppered with quote decals (‘Always remember, karma comes back’) and adored for its pool and friendly staff, this five-room, 29-bed dorm nails the balance between backpacker-fun and relaxation. There’s a female-only room, individual power sockets and reading lights, air-con, pool parties and a restaurant (mains 50,000Rp to 150,000Rp, open 9.30am until 10pm). Speedboat day trips are competitively priced.
Green Hill Bed StationHOSTEL$
(map; %0813 7429 3693; https://green-hill-bed-station.business.site; Jl Soekarno Hatta; dm 175,000Rp; aW)
This central, 30-bed hostel from Green Hill Boutique Hotel (map Google map; %0813 3826 2247, 0385-41289; www.greenhillboutiquehotel.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; tw/d 525,000Rp; aW) is perfect for travellers who want a hostel set-up without the rowdy crowd. Immaculate and comfortable with privacy curtains and individual power outlets, reading lights and large lockers, the shared hot-water bathrooms wouldn’t be out of place in a design magazine. Free airport transfers.
Le Pirate BoatelHOUSEBOAT$$
(%0822 3724 4539; www.lepirate.com/boatel; Waecicu Bay; r 700,000Rp; W)
Halfway between staying in town and on a liveaboard, the charming, 10-room Boatel from Le Pirate is permanently docked a 10-minute, free boat shuttle from Bajo. Each room has a deck with a hammock and sun-baking net over the water. Bathrooms are shared, breakfast is included and there’s a restaurant on board. Take advantage of happy hour and free snorkelling.
Escape BajoGUESTHOUSE$$
(map; %0822 3532 6699, 0385-2440011; www.facebook.com/escapebajo.brewbitebed; Jl Binongko; dm/d 175,000/585,000Rp; aW)
This swish, minimalist spot delivers on its tagline: brew (the trendy coffee shop opens 6am to 10pm), bite (there’s a small menu of Indonesian and Western fare, 40,000Rp to 68,000Rp) and bed (six lush dorm beds boast individual power outlets, and two of the six ocean-view rooms are leased long term).
Join rooftop sunset yoga every Monday for 100,000Rp.
La Boheme BajoHOSTEL$$
(map; %0385-244 0442, WhatsApp 0813 3828 9524; www.backpacking-indonesia.com; Gang Perikanan Lama; dm/d 250,000/400,000Rp; aW)
Laid-back beach vibes abound at this 90-something bed hostel, where free banana pancakes are available 24 hours. There’s a restaurant (11am to 11pm, mains 35,000Rp to 70,000Rp), a cinema room, pool table, guest kitchen and strong wi-fi. A boat makes two daily trips to Pulau Micolo for 30,000Rp.
It’s about 1km from the centre of town, down a poorly-marked side street on the right heading south, just after a small bridge and before the road forks to MadeInItaly.
Palulu Garden HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(map Google map; %0822 3658 4279; www.palulugarden.wordpress.com; Jl Ande Bole; dm 85,000Rp, r with fan/air-con 250,000/350,000Rp; a)
Long-time local guide Kornelis Gega runs this four-room family homestay above the town centre. The basic, ramshackle dorm has six beds (two people can share the largest for 120,000Rp total) and there are three clean private rooms. Kornelis can help with trip planning, transport arrangements and motorbike hire (75,000Rp per day). Say hi to Charlie Chaplin, the cat.
oScuba Junkie Komodo Beach ResortDIVE RESORT$$$
(%0822 3724 8059, 0812 3651 7973; www.scubajunkiekomodo.com; Warloka Flores; 3-night all-inclusive packages bale/d from 4,740,000/6,250,000Rp) S
A world-away from the bustle, this fantastic dive resort is on an isolated bay about an hour south of Bajo by boat. Rinca Island is nearby as are oodles of dive sites, which you’ll get to explore with dives included in the accommodation packages. Stay in breezy beach bales or sea-view rooms and relax on the picturesque jetty.
oVilla DominikBUNGALOW$$$
(%0852 3814 7795; www.villadomanik.com; Jl Belakang Pertamina, Pasar Baru, Desa Gorontalo; bungalows/2-bedroom villas from 1,100,000/2,300,000Rp; 
paWs)
Villa Domanik is bliss. On a hilltop outside Bajo, it has manicured gardens and a view of the Flores Sea from the pool. The three bungalows have outdoor bathrooms and wooden finishes, while a second, self-contained, two-bedroom villa is on the way. Food is a highlight, as is the sunset. In high season there’s a two-night minimum stay.
Bayview Gardens HotelINN$$$
(map Google map; %0385-41549; www.bayview-gardens.com; Jl Ande Bole; r from 850,000Rp; aWs)
Each of these 16 rooms tucked into the hillside – but still close to town – has a harbour view, best enjoyed during a balcony breakfast. Harbor Master Suites have daybeds and outdoor showers while wooden Seaview Suits were crafted by a boat builder. Wi-fi only in the restaurant and by the picture-postcard perfect pool. Prices jump in high season.
Puri Sari HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0385-244 3710; www.purisaribeachhotel.net; Jl Pantai Pede; r/villas from 950,000/3,000,000Rp; aWs)
A two-storey, ranch-style hotel owned by an Indonesian-Japanese couple. There’s a shady garden, beachside pool, friendly management and worthy buffet breakfast. The 21 rooms have queen-sized wooden beds and wide private terraces. It offers free shuttles to and from the airport, and another to town every two hours. Prices jump in high season.
4Island Hotels
Although close to Labuan Bajo, the surrounding island hotels and resorts feel like a world apart. All offer some form of boat transfer to/from town – in an hour or less you can escape to your own tropical paradise.
Flores XPirates Dive CampHUT$$
(%0811 3985 344; http://xpiratesdivecamp.com; Pulau Sebayur; dm/d/bungalow per person all-inclusive 400,000/450,000/600,000Rp; W) S
In 2018 Flores XP Adventure opened its solar-powered island dive camp with new huts, breezy bungalows and a six-bed dorm. There’s a restaurant with wi-fi, dive centre and brilliant snorkelling near the 180m jetty and reef, where a coral propagation program is underway. Prices include buffet meals and boat transfers. Full-board dive packages available from 3,700,000Rp per person.
Those who wish to day trip to the island can do so for 250,000Rp per person, including lunch.
oAngel Island ResortDIVE RESORT$$$
(%0385-41443, WhatsApp 0812 3660 8475; www.angelisleflores.com; Pulau Bidadari; standard/deluxe cottages 4,784,000/5,152,000Rp; aW) S
Set on its own 15-hectare island linked to Labuan Bajo by private boat, this resort offers delightful garden-ensconced cottages behind one of three white-sand beaches. All meals are included, and the food and service are casual and superb. Don’t miss snorkelling in the protected reef, birdwatching and free kayaking. Minimum three-night stay.
Komodo Resort Diving ClubRESORT$$$
(%0385-42094, island number 0813 3761 6625, office 8am-5pm 0812 3810 3244; www.komodoresort.com; Pulau Sebayur; d/tr/f incl meals 2,820,000/9,548,000/10,936,800Rp; aW)
With 18 lumbung (rice barn) style bungalows and four family rooms spread along a white-sand beach, this is a truly beautiful island resort. Bungalows have wooden floors, king beds, plush linen, 24-hour electricity, tented marble bathrooms with hot water and more. Rates include three excellent meals, but diving is separate. There’s also a spa and beach bar. Minimum three-night stay.
Sudamala Resort SerayaRESORT$$$
(%0361 288555, 0821 4647 1362; www.sudamalaresorts.com/seraya; Pulau Seraya; d per person from USD$325-450; aWs)
Get-away-from-it-all bliss exists on Pulau Seraya. Stay in flawless, whitewashed wood-and-thatch-bungalows set on a white-sand beach with offshore snorkelling. There’s a spa, restaurant and rugged hilltop where you can wonder at spectacular sunsets for days on end. It’s only 20 minutes by boat from Bajo. Minimum three-night stay.
The pick-up point is at Bamboo Cafe on Bajo’s main drag.
CLIMBING, CANYONING & CAVING
Shake off your sea legs by heading east of Labuan Bajo and exploring on land. Local tour operators on Jl Soekarno Hatta organise both best-of and custom itineraries.
Climbing up the rainforested slopes of Gunung Mbeliling (1239m) is popular. Leaving from Roe Village, 27km east of Bajo, the trip usually takes two days and includes six to eight hours of hiking through a fraction of the 150 sq km, sunrise at the summit and a stop-off at Air Terjun Cunca Rami, a cooling cascade with freshwater swimming holes. A guide is recommended.
If you like canyoning, you’ll enjoy the Cunca Wulang Cascades, 30km southeast of Bajo. Local guides lead you from Wersawe Village through rice fields, candlenut and coffee plantations to a winding canyon studded with rock water slides, swimming holes and waterfalls. Trips generally last half a day.
There are two caves worth exploring in Labuan Bajo. You only need an hour to visit Gua Batu Cermin (20,000Rp entry per person, guides optional but unnecessary for 50,000Rp), the ‘Stone Mirror Cave’ about 7km out of the town centre. Highlights include donning a hard hat and squeezing through tight spaces to see a whole fossilised turtle and coral gardens. Bring a torch. Gua Rangko (entry 20,000Rp) is more popular, an oceanic cave famed for its sunlit turquoise water (visit in the afternoon for the best light), stalagmites and stalactites. Drive from Labuan Bajo to Rangko Village, then don’t pay more than 250,000Rp for the boat to get there.
5Eating
Bajo’s popularity has seen an influx of Western restaurants, from enviable Italian to Instagram-worthy seaside smoothie bowls. Hit the Pasar Malam for seafood, and Padang restaurants at the southern end of Jl Soekarno Hatta to eat beside locals. Further south the street forks left into the Trans-Flores Hwy, where street vendors sell pisang goreng (fried banana) and pancake-like terang bulan.
oPasar MalamINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; Night Market; behind Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 25,000-80,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)
Bajo town’s most atmospheric dinner spot. Stalls with hand-painted names are fronted by tables of fresh seafood, with others specialising in more affordable nasi goreng, mei goreng and bakso (meatball noodle soup). Shop around before committing to a fish and BYO Bintang.
At the time of research the market was due to move from it’s temporary, dusty soccer field location back to the waterfront.
Blue CornerINDONESIAN$
(map; %0813 3762 0744; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 25,000-55,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
If you have a predilection for local food, seek out this family-run warung with pink and blue walls. There’s no English menu, but pictures on posters help. Juices are half the price of the Pasar Malam and sop buntut (oxtail soup) is the specialty – try the fried version.
Rumah Makan GarudaINDONESIAN$
(map; Garuda; %0853 3864 2021; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 30,000-55,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
There are plenty of Padang restaurants at the southern end of Jl Soekarno Hatta, but Garuda is our pick. Point-and-order from the stacked window display: beef rendang, jackfruit curry, fried chicken or fish, tempe, egg and – if you’re game – offal. Load up with garlicky sambal from tabletop jars.
oHappy BananaJAPANESE$$
(map; %0385-41467; happybananalb@gmail.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; breakfast 46,000-120,000Rp, mains 84,000-105,000Rp; h7am-11pm; aW
v)
This inviting, wholesome spot has something for everyone, including vegans. Staff are trained in the art of sushi, with everything from udon noodles to gyoza made from scratch. The ‘no rules’ policy means you can start the day with a chia bowl and poached eggs or finish with fluffy gnocchi and tempura. Save room for vegan chocolate mousse.
oMadeInItalyITALIAN$$
(%0385-244 0222; www.miirestaurants.com; Jl Pantai Pede; mains 84,000-169,000Rp; h11am-11pm; aW)
Bajo’s best Italian is known for thin-crust pizza and fresh pasta. Sit in a stylish, semi-open dining room or air-conditioned cellar with river-stone walls. Ingredients are imported from Italy and grown on restaurant-owned organic farms, plus there’s a bottle shop on-site and produce store on the way. For a luxury experience, enquire about the Culinary Journey island boat trip.
Bajo TacoTEX-MEX$$
(map; %0821 4782 4697; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 45,000-100,000Rp; h9am-11pm Tue-Sun; aWv)
Sharing a sea-view rooftop terrace with Bajo Bakery (map Google map; %0812 3878 8558; Jl Soekarno Hatta; breakfast 38,000-59,000Rp; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun; aW) is the town’s only Tex-Mex restaurant. Tortillas are homemade and the fish tacos are some of the freshest you’ll taste. Vegetarians, don’t miss the barbecue jackfruit tacos.
La CucinaITALIAN$$
(map; %0812 3851 2172; lacucinakomodo@gmail.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta 46; mains 52,000-90,000Rp; h6.30am-10.30pm; W)
This small, beachy dining room with its blue colour palette, fishing net decorations and rustic wooden tables is a crowd favourite. Homemade pasta and pizza are the menu picks, but expect to join the end of a queue in peak season. Skip the line and take advantage of free delivery.
Bamboo CafeCAFE$$
(map; %0812 3697 4461; Jl Soekarno Hatta; breakfast 25,000-65,000Rp, mains 45,000-75,000Rp; h6am-9pm; Wv)
Sit in white cane chairs and admire the hand-painted wall map while enjoying all-day breakfast made with vibrant ingredients from local farms. Booster juices and cold brew coffee accompany smoothie bowls, eggs, toasties and wholefoods.
Tree TopINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0385-41561, 0812 3803 9888; Jl Soekarno Hatta 22; mains 35,000-200,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
This open-air, double-decker restaurant is a fantastic place to watch the sunset, especially if you nab the table that juts out to the harbour. While both Indonesian and Western food is better elsewhere, it’s worth lingering for the view. There’s a billiard table on the ground floor, shared with Eco Tree O’tel (double rooms from 680,000Rp).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bajo’s popularity with backpackers, European diving instructors and music-loving locals translates to plenty of places to wet your whistle.
De’Flo Cafe & Ole-OleCOFFEE
(map; %0822 8888 9118; https://deflocafeoleole.business.site; Jl Soekarno Hatta 22; snacks 20,000-45,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)
Owned and operated by enthusiastic university graduates from Jakarta, this tranquil coffee shop a level down from Tree Top is the best place in Bajo for a caffeine fix. De’Flo serves local Manggarai and limited-edition, single-origin coffee any way you like it, along with traditional cakes, snacks and ethical handicrafts, packaged for all your souvenir needs.
Le PirateBAR
(map; %0361-733493, 0385-41962, 0822 3724 4539; www.lepirate.com/labuan-bajo; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h7am-11pm; W)
This colourful 1st-floor bar is a popular space for a drink after a day on the water. There’s live music (8pm to 10pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) and film nights (Monday and Wednesday). There’s also a decent restaurant (mains 60,000Rp to 110,000Rp), rooftop bar and stylish but poky accommodation (private bunk from 500,000Rp, double from 650,000Rp).
Paradise BarBAR
(%0812 1341 5306; Jl Binongko; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri & Sun, to 2am Sat; W)
“Come to Paradise” is a common phrase in Bajo, referring to a bar-slash-nightclub famed for sea and sunset views. It’s a preposterously lovely place for an arak cocktail, but come nightfall live music provides a party vibe. Saturdays demand a 65,000Rp cover charge, including a drink.
Paradise is a 10-minute stroll uphill from central Labuan Bajo. Ojeks hang around to take you home after dark, though they charge a premium.
Catur’z Kopi ClubCOFFEE
(map; %0812 4620 9890; caturzkopik@gmail.com; Jl Mutiara; veg food 35,000-55,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm)
Unwind over a couple of hours at this rustic, double-storey coffee house in Bajo’s backstreets. Try Indonesian spiced coffee while challenging staff to a game of chess. This is the town’s only dedicated vegetarian and vegan cafe. For breakfast you can scramble eggs or tofu, and peruse the veggie bar later on.
Cafe in HitCAFE
(map Google map; %0812 3642 4411; Jl Soekarno Hatta; coffee/light meals from 30,000/25,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)
Labuan Bajo’s answer to Starbucks, this casual coffee house serves ice-cold frappes alongside strong wi-fi. People-watch from above the street or browse shelves of local beans and second-hand books. Order from the giant blackboard.
7Shopping
Magnolia Boutique KomodoFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(map; %0812 3912 7007; hesty.hapsari@gmail.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h8am-9pm)
At Labuan Bajo’s best fashion store, all pieces are locally made, with some also designed in Flores. There’s plenty for the ladies, from linen clothing to contemporary caps made with naturally dyed ikat (patterned cloth), as well as shirts and tees for the blokes and adorable children’s clothing. There are plans to move to the marina complex.
8Information
Banks and ATMs line Jl Soekarno Hatta.
PHKA Information Booth (%0385-41005; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h7-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 7-10am Sat & Sun) PHKA administers the Komodo National Park and provides information and permits for Komodo and Rinca islands.
Tourist Office (%0361-271145, WhatsApp 0812 3746 9880; www.florestourism.com; Jl Mutiara; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat) Friendly and helpful, this official office is set just back from Bajo’s main drag.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Labuan Bajo’s Komodo Airport (Bandar Udara Komodo) has a sizeable terminal and lengthened runway, a hint at expected tourism growth.
Garuda, Nam Air, TransNusa, Wings Air and Batik Air serve destinations including Denpasar, Jakarta and Kupang and have counters in the terminal. There are several daily flights to/from Bali, although these are booked solid at busy times. Don’t expect to just turn up and go.
BOAT
The ASDP ferry from Labuan Bajo to Sape runs every morning at 9.30am. It costs 60,000Rp and takes six hours. Confirm all times carefully. Buy your tickets the day of departure at the ferry port office (Jl Soekarno Hatta; h8am-noon).
Agents for the boats running between Labuan Bajo and Lombok line Jl Soekarno Hatta.
Kencana Adventure (%0812 2206 6065; www.kencanaadventure.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta, inside Beta Bajo Hotel; one-way deck/shared cabin per person 1,650,000/2,000,000Rp) and Perama Tour & Travel (%0385-42016, 0385-42015; www.peramatour.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; one-way/return from 1,500,000/3,300,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm) offer multi-day boat trips between Lombok and Labuan Bajo.
Easily missed on a side street leading uphill from Jl Mutiara, Varanus Travel (Pelni Agent; %0385-41106; off Jl Mutiara; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) is the official Pelni agent and the place to get tickets for long-distance boat travel. Schedules posted in the windows outline services, including Makassar and the east coast of Sulawesi as well as Bima, Lembar and Benoa (Bali).
To get to Komodo, schedule in a day trip from Labuan Bajo. Join one of the many tours hawked by operators in town, which cost from 500,000Rp per person. Most leave around 5.30am and return around 6pm. Alternatively, charter a local boat or speedboat for a day or overnight.
BUS
The Labuan Bajo bus terminal is about 7km out of town, so most people book their tickets through a hotel or agency. If you get an advance ticket, the bus will pick you up from your accommodation. All eastbound buses run via Ruteng.
Ticket sellers for long-distance travel to Lombok and Bali work the ferry port office. The fares include all ferries, which can be unreliable due to weather conditions, and air-conditioned buses in between. The other option is to buy individual tickets for each leg of the journey yourself.
BUSES FROM LABUAN BAJO
| DESTINATION | TYPE | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Denpasar (Bali) | bus & ferry | 580,000 | 36 | 1 daily |
| Bajawa | bus | 210,000 | 10 | 2 daily |
| Mataram (Lombok) | bus & ferry | 370,000 | 24 | 1 daily |
| Ruteng | bus | 100,000 | 4 | every 2hr, 6am-6pm |
8Getting Around
The airport is 1.5km from town. Some hotels offer free rides in and out. A private taxi to town and anywhere within town costs 50,000Rp.
Most places are walkable in Labuan Bajo. An ojek ride costs 5000Rp to 10,000Rp. Bemos do continual loops around the centre, following the one-way traffic, and cost 5000Rp per ride. The price may double if you have a sizeable bag.
Manggarai Country
%0385
To compare gradations of beauty on Flores is as futile as it is fun. And if you do get into such a debate, know that if you’ve explored Manggarai’s dense and lush rainforests, studded with towering stands of bamboo and elegant tree ferns, and climbed its mountains to isolated villages accessible only by trail, you may have the trump card.
Ruteng
%0385 / Pop 38,888
Surrounded by lush peaks and terraced rice fields, the staid and sprawling market city of Ruteng is the natural base for exploring Manggarai Regency. A predominantly Catholic town, it’s a four-hour drive from Labuan Bajo. Should you take in a few sights, you’ll be overnighting here. Fun fact: smaller streets here are named after animals, such as Jl Gajah (elephant), Jl Kelinci (rabbit) and Jl Kuda Belang (zebra).
1Sights
oSpider Web Rice FieldsVIEWPOINT
(Lingko Fields; Cara Village, Cancar, off Trans-Flores Hwy)
The greatest local site is actually 20km west of Ruteng near Cara kampung. The legendary Spider Web Rice Fields are vast creations shaped as implied, which is also the shape of Manggarai roofs that fairly divide property between families. For the best view, stop at the small pavilion, pay 25,000Rp and ascend a dirt path to the main viewing ridge.
Liang BuaCAVE
(entry 30,000Rp)
The limestone Liang Bua cave, where the remains of the Flores ‘hobbit’ were famously found in 2003, is about 14km north of Ruteng. Archaeologists believe that the lip along the entrance permitted sediment to build up as water flowed through the cave over the millennia, sealing in human and animal remains. Listen out for rumours of more recent, sacred sightings.
Local guides, whose service is included in your 30,000Rp entry fee, will meet you at the cave’s entrance and explain why Liang Bua is considered sacred. The road to the cave is bumpy and can be impassable during rainy season. In the cave itself are remnants of excavations; a small, separate museum contains information in Indonesian, photographs, fossil casts and replica bones. To get here take an ojek (100,000Rp) from Ruteng.
4Sleeping
Ruteng has a number of quiet, orderly homestays and some stale but reliable hotels. Remember it’s somewhat elevated compared to Bajo and can get chilly at night.
Spring Hill BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 3937 2345, 0385-22514; springhillbungalowsruteng@gmail.com; Jl Kasturi 8; r from 750,000Rp; W)
Ruteng’s nicest accommodation. Twelve deluxe bungalows set around a lily pond have plush bedding and wooden feature walls inset with televisions. There’s even a hairdryer in the bathroom, but the two-bedroom suite for four (1,750,000Rp) boasts a wooden deck with outdoor spa bath. The restaurant (mains 35,000Rp to 95,000Rp) has a snow ice machine.
D-Rima HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 7951 188; deddydarung@gmail.com; Jl Kelinci; s/d 150,000/250,000-300,000Rp; W)
Hobbit Hill HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 4648 7553; www.ruteng.id; Jl Liang Bua Golobila; d/bungalow from 250,000/480,00Rp)
Two kilometres from the centre of town towards Gua Liang Bua and surrounded by rice terraces is this welcoming, three-bedroom guesthouse. Two rooms have private toilets (only one is an ensuite), while the separate bungalow accommodates four people. The view from the property is especially impressive at sunrise. Generous breakfast included and home-cooked meals from 30,000Rp.
5Eating & Drinking
Rumah Makan Cha ChaINDONESIAN$
(%0812 3698 9009, 0385-21489; ywidianita@hotmail.com; Jl Diponegoro 12; mains 15,000-50,000Rp; hnoon-9pm; W)
Ruteng’s best restaurant is all wooden with framed Flores attractions on the walls and gingham table covers. Named after the owner’s daughter, the Indo standards are well-prepared and it’s a clean, relaxing place. Nasi lontong opor (chicken in coconut milk with rice) and nasi soto ayam (chicken soup with glass noodles, bean sprouts, egg, potato chips and rice) come recommended.
Kopi Mane InspirationCAFE
(%0821 4733 4545, 0813 8008 2778; Jl Yos Sudarso 12; mains 20,000-35,000Rp; h8am-2am; W)
A solid spot for a Manggarai coffee to power your day. Buy a bag of ground and roasted beans to take home or order cheap-eat Indonesian fare from a blackboard menu. Tourist information available, along with motorbikes rented at 100,000Rp per day.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal for eastward destinations is 3.5km out of Ruteng; a bemo or ojek there costs from 5000Rp to 10,000Rp. Local buses heading west run from an unofficial, central terminal near the pasar (Market; Jl Bhayangkara; h7am-5pm). Regular buses head to Bajawa and Labuan Bajo (110,000Rp, five and four hours respectively).
Wae Rebo
Wae Rebo is the best of Manggarai’s traditional villages. Road improvements have opened up the area, but it’s still remote.
A village visit involves a splendid but challenging 9km hike that takes three to four hours and winds past waterfalls and swimming holes, as well as spectacular views of the Savu Sea. A donation of 200,000Rp per person is expected for a visit, or 320,000Rp if you stay overnight in a mbaru tembong (traditional home). The next morning retrace your steps or hike another six hours over a pass to another trailhead; arrange for pick up here in advance.
Arrange for guides (400,000Rp) and porters (250,000Rp) at the local guesthouses. Don’t expect to be automatically treated to indigenous music, dance and weaving demonstrations – these cost extra and are usually organised for larger tour groups. Be sure to start very early, to avoid the sweltering heat of midday. Bring water.
4Sleeping
Given that early morning is the optimal time to start the trek to Wae Rebo, you’ll want to stay near the trailhead as opposed to in Ruteng.
Wae Rebo LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 3934 4046, 0812 3712 1903, WhatsApp 085 339 021 145; martin_anggo@yahoo.com; Dintor; r per person 250,000Rp)
A purpose-built lodge run by Martin, a local from Wae Rebo. It sits serenely amid rice fields with views of both sunrise and sunset and is some 9km from the trailhead. Meals are included in the rate and you can make all trekking arrangements here. Ten per cent of Martin’s profits go towards supporting the community.
Wae Rebo HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0813 3935 0775; Denge; r per person 200,000Rp)
Right at the trailhead, this is the original place to sleep for people making the Wae Rebo trek. Friendly owner Blasius is a Wae Rebo expert and operates the small visitor centre as well as the 15-room homestay. Ask him about village visits and transport. If the phone signal is patchy, send him an SMS.
8Getting There & Away
It’s about a three-hour drive from Ruteng to the village trailhead in Denge. You’ll need your own wheels for this.
Bajawa
%0384 / Pop 44,437
Framed by forested volcanoes and blessed with a cooler climate, Bajawa is a laid-back and predominantly Catholic hill town. Perched at 1100m above sea level, it’s the de facto trading post of the local Ngada people and a great base from which to explore dozens of traditional villages or to stay put and mingle with locals. Gunung Inerie, a perfectly conical volcano, looms to the south, where you’ll also find active hot springs. Wawo Muda (Jl Wawo Muda) is another favourite thanks to its Kelimutu-esque lake, left behind after an eruption in 2001.
2Activities
oGunung InerieHIKING
A breathtakingly beautiful volcano looming above Bajawa, Gunung Inerie (2245m), just 10km from town, beckons all would-be climbers. The journey is difficult, but this spectacularly jagged cone is worth sweating for. You can do it as an eight-hour round trip, but it’s also possible to camp by the lake. We recommend starting around 3am to catch the sunrise.
With an English-speaking guide and transport from Bajawa, expect to pay about 800,000Rp for one and 1,000,000Rp for two people. Bring water.
Air Panas SoaHOT SPRINGS
(per person 14,000Rp; h7am-6pm)
The most serviced hot springs in the region, situated east of town on the rough road to Riung. There are two man-made pools (one is a scintillating 45°C; the other a more pedestrian 35°C to 40°C) and one natural pool (25°C to 30°C). It has modern buildings and can get busy. Air Panas Malanage is a more natural option.
4Sleeping
Thanks to a growth spurt in Bajawa tourism, locals are opening homestays all over town. Friendly and informative, they’re the best accommodation option as hotels can be tired or soulless.
Marselino’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0852 3913 1331; www.floresholiday.wordpress.com; Jl Pipipodo; s/d/tr 150,000/170,000/210,000Rp; W)
A simple affair with six rooms and a living and dining room as common space. Brave the cold, shared shower and enjoy nasi goreng and fruit for breakfast. The best thing about this place is the owner, an established tour guide worth calling on for all your Flores needs, from tours to tickets.
Madja Edelweis HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0812 3779 5490; austynobabtista@gmail.com; Jl Pipipodo; s/d from 150,000/200,000Rp; W)
Not to be confused with the bland Edelweis Hotel on the main drag, this eight-room homestay has an assortment of comfortable and colourful rooms. The friendly owner is exceedingly helpful, loaning motorbikes for 100,000Rp a day and organising trips around Flores. The wi-fi is fast, a generous breakfast is included and there’s a guest kitchen. Pay extra for hot water.
oManulaluBUNGALOW$$$
(%0812 5182 0885; villamanulalu@gmail.com; Mangulewa; d/bungalows from 460,000/1,200,000Rp)
Split into two nearby properties, Manulalu Hills and Manulalu Jungle are about 20km from Bajawa and 3km from Bena along a scenic, winding road. Hills has eight stylish rooms, but the seven Jungle bungalows, modelled on traditional houses, are something from a fairytale; think beautiful bathrooms and daybeds on wooden decks perfect for admiring one of Flores’ most spectacular outlooks.
5Eating
Rumah Makan AnugerahINDONESIAN$
(%0812 1694 7158; Jl Sudirman; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10.30pm)
This small and spotless family-run rumah makan (eating house) is a great choice for a cheap lunch. Some menu items veer into almost-Chinese territory, while others such as nasi babi rica rica (spicy pork with rice) keep it in the archipelago. Save room for sweets from the cabinet.
Lucas 2INDONESIAN$
(%0813 5390 7073; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 20,000-35,000Rp; h8am-10pm Fri & Sat, 3-10pm Sun)
Not to be confused with other Lucas venues in the street, this one is on the 2nd storey of a wooden building. Yellow ceiling beams and painted tables up the decor ante in the dining room, which serves fine pork sate and other local faves.
8Information
Tourist Office (%0852 3904 3771; www.welcome2flores.com; Jl Ahmad Yani 2; h8am-6pm) Small but highly useful information centre covering guided trips, hikes, vehicle rental, transport tickets and more. Plenty of Ngada info. Call ahead, the owner is also a guide so the office sometimes closes when they are on the road.
BNI Bank (Jl Marta Dinata; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat) In the centre; has an ATM and exchanges US dollars.
8Getting There & Away
There are buses and bemos to various destinations. Buses don’t necessarily leave on time – only when the bus is almost full. Kijangs, or share cars, also leave throughout the day from the bemo terminal (Jl Basoeki Rahmat). Rates are up to 30% more than bus fares. Bus services include the following:
Ende (70,000Rp, five hours, several times daily)
Labuan Bajo (150,000Rp, 10 hours, several times daily)
Ruteng (80,000Rp, five hours, frequent services from 8am to 11am)
8Getting Around
Bemos cruise town for 5000Rp a ride, but it is easy to walk almost everywhere except to the bus terminals.
Trucks serve remote routes, most leaving traditional villages in the morning and returning in the afternoon.
Motorcycles cost 100,000Rp a day. A private vehicle with a driver is 800,000Rp, expect to pay more the further out you explore. Most hotels can arrange rental.
Bajawa Turelelo Soa Airport is a small, domestic airport 25km from Bajawa and about 6km outside Soa. Wings Air and TransNusa both fly daily to Kupang in West Timor (one hour), while Wings also flies daily to Labuan Bajo (35 minutes).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PAULENI–BELARAGHI VILLAGE TREK
Most visitors to the Bajawa area rely on hired vehicles to whisk them between traditional villages. But it’s much more fulfilling to trek through the rainforest to villages such as Belaraghi, accessible only by trail. Your trek will begin in Pauleni Village, approximately 45km (90 minutes) from Bajawa by car. From there it’s a steep 90-minute hike to a village of welcoming locals. There are more than a dozen traditional homes here. The hike can be done in a day trip, but you’ll be tired by now, so you may as well stay the night. The kepala kampung (village head) offers a bed and meals for 250,000Rp per person. Ask a Bajawa area guide to help arrange the trip.
Around Bajawa
Bajawa’s big draw is the chance to explore villages in the gorgeous countryside. The fascinating architecture of the traditional houses features carved poles supporting conical thatched roofs. It’s possible to visit the area alone, but you’ll learn a lot more about the culture and customs with a guide. Some organise meals in their home villages, others suggest treks to seldom-visited villages accessible only by trail.
Locals and homestay owners can arrange day trips by car from 600,000Rp per person, or jump on the back of a motorbike with a guide for between 400,000Rp to 500,000Rp. A classic one-day itinerary would start in Bajawa and include Bena, Luba, Tololela and Air Panas Malanage hot springs. It’s customary to make a donation to the head of traditional villages you visit. Make sure you do this directly, rather than through a guide, to ensure the money is received in full.
Bena
Resting on Inerie’s flank, Bena is one of the most traditional Ngada villages. It’s home to nine clans and its stone monuments are the region’s best. Houses with high, thatched roofs line up in two rows on a ridge. They’re interspersed with ancestral totems including megalithic tombs, ngadhu (thatched parasol-like structures) and bhaga (miniature thatched-roof houses). Most houses have male or female figurines on their roofs, while doorways are decorated with buffalo horns and jawbones – a sign of family prosperity.
Although the village is crowded when tour groups arrive during high season, and all villagers are now officially Catholic and attend a local missionary school, traditional beliefs and customs endure. Sacrifices are held three times each year, and village elders still talk about a rigidly enforced caste system that prevented ‘mixed’ relationships, with those defying the adat facing serious consequences.
Bena is the most visited Ngada village, and weavings and souvenir stalls line the front of houses. It’s so popular that an entrance fee has replaced donations – a set 25,000Rp per person, and there are official opening hours (6am to 6pm). Some travellers might prefer the atmosphere at lesser-visited villages nearby. You can spend the night at Bena for 150,000Rp per person, which includes meals of boiled cassava and banana. Bena is reached by a good 12km road from Langa, a traditional town 7km from Bajawa. An ojek ride here costs 100,000Rp return.
The natural hot springs of Air Panas Malanage (entry 10,000Rp) are 6km from Bena and unofficially staffed by friendly locals. At the base of one of the many volcanoes, two streams – one hot, one cold – mix together in a temperate pool. Soak amid the scents of coconut, hazelnut, vanilla and clove. Basic change facilities onsite.
Luba
Tucked into the jungle like a beautiful secret at the foot of Gunung Inerie, this traditional village is only a few hundred metres from Bena and much more intimate. Four welcoming clans live here in a baker’s dozen of homes. You’ll see four ngadhu and bhaga and houses decorated with depictions of symbolic horses, buffalo and snakes. Photography is welcomed by most; leave a donation of at least 20,000Rp. Hire an ojek from Bajawa for 100,000Rp return, or walk from Bena.
Tololela
A mere 4km walk from Bena (about 90 minutes) brings you to this seldom-visited Ngada settlement which consists of three linked traditional villages. Residents love receiving visitors (donate at least 20,000Rp per person) and you can sip simple refreshments while everyone satisfies their mutual curiosity.
Wawo Muda
Wawo Muda (1753m) is the latest volcano to emerge in Flores, exploding in 2001 and leaving behind a mini-Kelimutu, complete with several small crater lakes coloured variously burnt orange, yellow and green. Pine trees charred by the eruption stand in isolated patches, and there are spectacular views of Gunung Inerie. The area is best visited in the wet season from December to March, if the trails are not too muddy. The lakes usually evaporate in the dry season.
To reach Wawo Muda, take an ojek to the village of Ngoranale, near Menge (100,000Rp return), then walk an hour up an easy-to-follow trail. Some ojek drivers may offer to take you the whole way up, as the path is doable on a motorbike. A car and driver will cost 700,000Rp round trip. You can get a local guide to accompany you for around 250,000Rp.
Riung
%0384 / Pop 13,875
Riung is a charming and isolated little town, stilted with fishers’ shacks and framed by coconut palms. Coming from Ende you’ll drive along an arid coastline that skirts a spectacularly blasted volcano, before a burst of foliage swallows the road as it winds into town. The main attraction is Seventeen Islands Marine Park. Relatively challenging roads keep Riung from development.
1Sights
Seventeen Islands Marine ParkMARINE RESERVE
(Pulau Tujuh Belas)
These uninhabited islands are as diverse as they are beautiful. The mangrove isle of Pulau Ontoloe hosts a massive colony of flying foxes and a few Komodo dragons, while Pulau Rutong and Pulau Temba boast picture-perfect white sand and turquoise waters. There’s great snorkelling near Pulau Tiga, Pulau Laingjawa and Pulau Bakau, but wherever you visit, you won’t be disappointed.
4Sleeping & Eating
Del Mar CafeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 4659 8232, 0813 8759 0964; d/tr 400,000/500,000Rp; a)
Off the main road heading to the pier, these 12 air-conditioned rooms with timber furniture and private bathrooms are owned by the area’s top guide, Al Itchan. There’s a small warung on-site, strung with shells and fairy lights, that rumbles with rock and roll, and grills fish over smouldering coconut husks (mains from 30,000Rp; open 7am to 11pm).
Nirvana BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 3710 6007; www.nirvanabungalows.doodlekit.com; d/tr/f 400,000/500,000/600,000Rp; a)
Nine fun, detached hippy shacks with colourful walls, a smattering of inspirational sayings (‘If life was easy where would all the adventures be?’) and private patios where breakfast is served overlooking the tranquil garden. Located near the port, the engaging owner offers guided trips to the islands. Organise ahead for a grilled fish dinner.
Pato RestoINDONESIAN$
(%0812 4698 7688; mains 25,000-55,000Rp; h8am-11pm; v)
One of Riung’s best restaurants is also it’s most unassuming. This simple haunt with checkered tables and plastic chairs is the place to try local Indonesian food. Located on the main road, its succinct whiteboard menu (in English) changes with the seasons and daily catch. Seafood is a must, but there are plenty of veg dishes, too.
Rico RicoINDONESIAN$
(%0812 3019 8727, WhatsApp 0813 3890 5597; mains 30,000-45,000Rp; h6am-10pm)
One of the few eating options in Riung and right beside the pier, this is a convenient pre- or post-boat trip dining spot. Food is cheap and basic, but the grilled fish with fresh tomato sauce comes comes highly recommended. Visit at night for live music.
Rico Rico also organises snorkelling day trips (from 300,000Rp per person for a group), boats to Labuan Bajo (3,500,000Rp for two), camping on the beach (100,00Rp per person) and overnight island camping (2,000,000Rp for two, all-inclusive).
TOURING THE SEVENTEEN ISLANDS
Guides can be organised at hotels and guesthouses, or at the waterfront. The standard is a day-long boat trip to Seventeen Islands Marine Park, including lunch, snorkelling and four island stops, the first almost always being Pulau Ontoloe. We recommend Al Itchan, owner of Del Mar Cafe.
Before going to the islands you must sign in and pay 100,000Rp per person at a separate booth by the dock. Your captain or guide should pay the anchorage fees for your boat.
Tour options include the following:
A A boat-only day trip without a guide for four to six people costs 500,000Rp to 600,000Rp. Captains don’t know the best spots to take the plunge, but you can follow other boats.
A A boat day trip with at least four snorkelling stops, a guide and a beach barbecue for four people is organised by Itchan for 1,600,000Rp.
A Overnight camping on Palau Rutong, organised by Itchan, costs 3,400,000Rp for two people and includes boat rides, snorkelling and meals.
8Information
There’s a BRI ATM but no official currency exchange facilities in Riung. It’s safest to bring ample rupiah.
There’s no useful internet and 3G data is patchy.
8Getting There & Away
Riung is 75km and about two hours over rough roads from the turn off at Boawae on the Trans-Flores Hwy. There is a much worse 79km road to Riung from Bajawa that takes about four hours by a daily bus costing 35,000Rp, or is slightly quicker by car – a share taxi costs 60,000Rp per person while a private car is 700,000Rp total. Ende is also four hours by a daily bus at 70,000Rp per passenger.
If you can’t bear the Trans-Flores Hwy for another second, consider chartering a boat from Riung all the way to Labuan Bajo from 3,000,000Rp, which takes seven to 10 hours. It’s a bit pricey, but you’ll enjoy a coastline most visitors never see, stopping in virgin coves and snorkelling along the way. Just bring headphones or earplugs. Those outboard motors are loud!
Ende
%0381 / Pop 103,987
The most apparent merit of this muggy port town is its spectacular surrounds. The eye-catching cones of Gunung Meja (661m) and Gunung Iya (627m) loom over the city and the black-sand and cobblestone coastline. Views get even better just northeast of Ende as the road to Kelimutu rises along a ridge, overlooking a roaring river and cliffs that tumble with waterfalls in the wet season from December to March. Throw in coffee and clove drying on tarps on the side of the road, jade rice terraces, and women picking macadamia nuts from bamboo ladders, and you have some of Flores’ most jaw-dropping scenery.
You don’t need long to cover Ende’s compact and atmospheric centre. Most treat it as a pitstop on the way to elsewhere, but there’s some intrigue to its grittiness. The central airport is a useful hub for connections to Labuan Bajo, Kupang (West Timor) and Tambolaka (Sumba).
1Sights
There’s less to see and more to ‘soak up’ in Ende. The black-sand beach is a morbid reminder of Indonesia’s litter problem, but the views are dramatic and there’s always something interesting happening at the waterfront.
Ikat MarketMARKET
(cnr Jls Kathedral & Pasar; h5am-5pm)
The ikat market sells hand-woven tapestries from across Flores and Sumba. Bargaining is acceptable, but bear in mind you’re expected to make good on any offer that’s accepted. Shops can be closed during lunch.
4Sleeping
Accommodation is plentiful and spread around town, but lacklustre. Many people blow through Ende on their way east to Moni, but an overnight stay will result in a good feed, a little atmosphere and a well-rested start onward to Moni in the morning.
oDasi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0381-262 7049, 0852 1863 8432; yosdam@yahoo.co.id; Jl Durian Atas 2; dm/s/d 100,000/200,000/250,000Rp; aW)
This friendly guesthouse fulfils its motto, “feel like home”, thanks to incredibly helpful staff. Although 15 basic rooms came before the 11 private dorm beds, each in its own cubicle, there’s a definite hostel vibe here. The common room has views to the south. Free airport transfers and pick up from town if the weather’s bad or you get lost.
5Eating
oSari RasaINDONESIAN$
(%0812 3925 3699; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 25,000-45,000Rp; h6.30-10pm)
This sparkling-clean, bare-walled restaurant is filled with travellers out for a taste of local food, but who come back for Martin, the charismatic owner and self-appointed “captain of the boat”. He’ll explain the short, whiteboard-scrawled menu cooked by his wife as jazz plays in the background.
The ayam goreng (fried chicken) uses free-range village chickens, marinated, tenderised then fried. Empal is the Javanese answer to brisket – a hunk of tender, spiced fried beef. Both come with a mound of addictive serundeng (spiced, grated coconut) on top.
8Information
There are two tourist information centres in Ende, both with enthusiastic staff who dispense up-to-date information.
Ende Tourism Office (%0381-21303; www.florestourism.com; Jl Soekarno; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Flores DMO Tourist Office (%0381-23141; www.florestourism.com; Jl Bhakti; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
ATMs and banks dot the centre.
8Getting There & Away
Air and ferry schedules in East Nusa Tenggara are historically fluid, and it’s best to confirm all times and carriers prior to planning your trip.
TRANSPORT FROM ENDE
Air
Wings, Garuda, Nam Air, TransNusa and Susi Air serve Ende Airport (H Hasan Aroeboesman Airport; Jl Ahmad Yani), which is located almost in the centre of town.
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|
| Kupang | Nam Air, TransNusa, Wings Air, Garuda | daily |
| Labuan Bajo | Wings Air, Lion Air, Garuda | daily |
| Tambolaka | Wings Air | daily |
Bus & Car
East-bound buses leave from the Roworeke terminal, 8km from town. Buses heading west leave from the Ndao terminal, 2km north of town on the beach road.
| DESTINATION | TYPE | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bajawa | bus | 80,000 | 5 | several daily |
| Labuan Bajo | bus | 200,000 | 12-15 | daily, 6am |
| Maumere | bus | 80,000 | 5 | regularly, 7am-4pm |
| Maumere | car | 150,000 | 4½ | regularly, 7am-4pm |
| Moni | bus | 50,000 | 2 | several daily |
| Moni | car | 100,000 | 1½ | hourly, 6am-4pm |
8Getting Around
Airport taxis to most hotels cost around 50,000Rp per car. Bemos and ojeks run frequently to just about everywhere for a flat rate of 5000Rp.
Kelimutu
Kelimutu (1639m), a sacred and extinct volcano, is the centrepiece of the mountainous, jungle-clad national park (admission per person Mon-Sat/Sun 150,000/225,000Rp, per ojek/car 5000/10,000Rp; hticket office 5am-5pm) of the same name. There aren’t many better reasons to wake up before dawn than to witness the sun cresting Kelimutu’s western rim, filtering mist into the sky and revealing three deep, volcanic lakes – nicknamed the tri-coloured lakes because for years each one was a different striking shade. Less than 30 minutes by car from Moni, the park shelters endangered flora and fauna (including 19 rare avian species) and other peaks such as Mount Kelibara (1731m).
Alert local guides if you dream about the sacred lakes – apparently siren-like spirits have lured people to their demise, which can be avoided if the right prayers and offerings are made.
Kelimutu is sacred to the local Lio people, who believe the souls of the dead migrate here: young people’s souls go to the warmth of Tiwu Koo Fai Nuwa Muri; old people’s to the cold of Tiwu Ata Bupu; and those of the wicked to Tiwu Ata Polo. Pork, betel nuts, rice and other valuable offerings are left on ceremonial rocks beside the lakes, amid the dancing of the Lio’s annual ‘Feed the Spirit of the Forefathers’ ceremony, on August 14.
Ever since locals led early Dutch settlers here, sightseers have made the sunrise trek. Most visitors glimpse the lakes at dawn, leaving nearby Moni at 4am for early morning views after the pre-dawn mist rises, and before clouds drift in. Afternoons are usually empty and peaceful at the top of Mt Kelimutu, and when the sun is high, the colours sparkle.
There’s a staircase up to the highest lookout, Inspiration Point, from where all three lakes are visible. It’s not advisable to scramble around the craters’ loose scree. The footing’s so bad and the drop so steep that a few careless hikers have perished here.
It’s worth staying in Moni rather than attempting Kelimutu as a day trip, should bad weather obscure the view or close the road to the top. Remain flexible with onward travel plans, especially during wetter months.
2Activities
For a beautiful walk through the lush local landscape, hire transport one-way to the lakes and then walk back to Moni. The stroll down the mountain, through the village, past rice fields and along cascading streams, takes about three hours and isn’t too taxing. A jalan potong (shortcut) leaves the road back to Moni 3km south of the ticket office and goes through Manukako village, then meanders back to the main road 750m uphill from Moni. A second path diverges from the trail and goes through Tomo, Mboti, Topo Mboti, Kolorongo and Koposili villages, skirts a waterfall and returns to Moni without rejoining the highway. It’s possible (although not essential) to hire a guide in Moni (350,000Rp) to show you the way.
8Getting There & Away
The ticket office is 8.5km up the paved access road, which connects to the Trans-Flores Hwy 2km west of Moni. The parking area for the lake is another 4km. From the car park it’s a nice 20-minute walk up through the pines to Inspiration Point. To get here from Moni, hire an ojek (60,000Rp/100,000Rp one way/return) or car (250,000Rp/350,000Rp one way/return), maximum five people.
Moni
%0361 / Pop 7,604
People often skip Moni, making a beeline for Kelimutu and treating its volcanic lakes as a day trip. These people miss out. If you’re not in a rush, a couple of nights in Moni – a lovely, picturesque hill town fringed by rice fields, lush volcanic peaks and hot springs – will bring you back down to earth. It’s slow-paced and easy-going thanks to friendly locals and an unexpected Rasta community, who live to play music and invite travellers to join in at every turn. The Tuesday market, held on the soccer pitch, is a major local draw and good place to snare local ikat (patterned textiles).
2Activities
Apart from the trek to/from Kelimutu, there are several other walks from Moni. About 750m along the Ende road from the centre of Moni, paths lead down to a 10m air terjun (waterfall), with a swimming hole and air panas (hot springs) near the falls. The trail branches to the left of Rainbow Cafe (%0813 3947 7300; ana.rainbow@ovi.com; Jl Trans Flores; mains 30,000-80,000Rp; h9am-9pm). A must-visit is the breathtaking hot spring in the middle of the rice fields at Kolorongo (3.5km from Moni) on the way to Kelimutu. Or walk south past the church to Potu and Woloara (about 2.5km from Moni).
4Sleeping
It seems every local in Moni is building a homestay along the Trans-Flores Hwy. Most are budget to midrange, but prices will jump in the near future – already there’s a discrepancy between accommodation of the same standard. Do your research so you don’t get ripped off. Booking ahead from June to August is recommended, but locals should know someone with a bed if you get stuck.
Legend Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 9831 3581; ino.alexander99@gmail.com; off Jl Trans Flores, behind market; r 200,000Rp)
You’ll feel like family at this budget, three-bedroom guesthouse. Rooms are simple, spotless and share a bathroom (with a pebbled shower). Ask owner Ino about booking day trips…and to hear him sing at Mopi’s Place. The guesthouse is next to the market, which makes for a great atmosphere but not the best sleep-in.
Mahoni Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 7212 3313; Jl Trans Flores; r 350,000Rp)
Look for a friendly group of Rastas sitting under a dried grass umbrella in front of a white house and you’ve found Mahoni. Owner Galank is incredibly welcoming to all who stay in the four sparkling rooms, all with hot showers. Banana pancakes and fresh fruit included for breakfast; a taste of local life all day.
Bintang by TobiasGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 3761 6940, WhatsApp 0823 4103 6979; www.bintang-lodge.com; Jl Trans Flores; s/d/f 385,000/440,000/800,000Rp)
One of the best guesthouses in town, Bintang offers five large, centrally located and renovated rooms. It has hot water (a blessing in chilly Moni) and the cafe (mains 30,000Rp to 99,000Rp) has an open terrace with views over the green surrounds. Owner Tobias is a super-friendly fount of local information and can organise motorbike hire, tours and transport.
oKelimutu Crater Lakes EcolodgeLODGE$$$
(%0852 3324 8518, 0361-747 4205; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; Jl Ende-Maumere Km54; r/villas from 800,000/1,000,000Rp; a) S
Easily the nicest spot in Moni. Nestled by the riverside east of town are 21 rooms and villas, all with pebbled tiles, hot water, some solar power and outdoor sitting areas. Cross the bridge over a babbling stream and check out the rice terraces. The restaurant (mains from 40,000Rp to 65,000Rp) serves local specialities.
5Eating
oMopi’s PlaceCAFE$
(%0812 3956 4019, 0813 3736 5682; Jl Trans Flores; breakfast 25,000-35,000Rp, mains 35,000-55,000Rp; h8am-10pm; v)
Moni has a surprisingly contagious vibe, and this is the heart of it. The open-sided Indo-Australian affair starts with local coffee, house soy milk and freshly baked bread; progresses to exceptional Indonesian mains with plenty of veg options and – if the musically gifted locals are around – morphs into a dance floor as live reggae rings through the mountains.
Order by noon and you can be sitting down to an evening nasi bamboo buffet of tapa kolo – coconut rice cooked over coals in a bamboo tube, with chicken (and/or fish), veggies and accompaniments (150,000Rp per person, for a minimum of two).
Good MoniINDONESIAN$$
(%0813 5377 5320; Jl Trans Flores; mains 40,000-80,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W)
With a friendly chef-owner and misty view of the hills, this open-air restaurant at the top of town is worth a stop. Indonesian food is the specialty, but there’s pasta available, too. Check out the blackboard for the daily special and be sure to try the Moni croquette. Perhaps the only place in Moni for wi-fi.
8Getting There & Away
It’s always best to travel in the morning, when buses are often half empty; afternoon buses are usually overcrowded. Don’t book through your homestay – hail the bus as it passes through town.
A private car from Ende airport to Moni costs 500,000Rp one way. Book via the stand near baggage collection.
Motorbikes (100,000Rp) and cars with a driver (800,000Rp) are available per day from Bintang by Tobias.
Always organise drivers and transport through trusted locals, accommodation and homestays – avoid opportunists hawking transport on the street as there have been reports of scams. If you’re unsure, ask Tobias at Bintang.
TRANSPORT FROM MONI
| DESTINATION | TYPE | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ende | bus | 30,000 | 2 | several daily |
| Ende | share taxi | 50,000 | 1½ | several daily |
| Maumere | bus | 50,000 | 3 | several daily |
| Maumere | share taxi | 80,000 | 2½ | several daily |
Paga
%0382 / Pop 15,598
Halfway between Moni and Maumere are a string of beaches that are the stuff of Flores fantasy. The Trans-Flores Hwy swoops down to the shore at this rice-farming and fishing hamlet, where the wide rushing river meets the placid bay.
1Sights
The lush scenery lures you inland from beautiful beaches. You can hike to megalithic stone graves and amazing ocean views at the nearby village of Nuabari. Agustinus Naban (www.floresgids.com) of Restaurant Laryss will guide you for 500,000Rp per day.
Pantai PagaBEACH
The Trans-Flores Hwy parallels this beautiful long stretch of white sand. The water is perfect for swimming and you can easily lounge away an afternoon.
oPantai KokaBEACH
(entry per person/car 10,000/20,000Rp)
About 5km west of Pantai Paga, look for a small, partially paved road that runs for 2km through a cocoa plantation to a stunning double bay. Facing a promontory are two perfect crescents of sand; one protected and another with views out to sea. Eat grilled fish (50,000Rp) at Blasius Homestay, or stay in his basic bamboo accommodation (rooms 200,000Rp).
4Sleeping & Eating
Inna’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 3833 4170; innanadoke@gmail.com; Jl Maumere-Ende, Pantai Paga; r 300,000-450,000Rp)
An absolute beachfront, four-room homestay with a back porch and hammock for maximum ocean enjoyment. Rooms are basic but spotless. One has an impressively renovated bathroom. Fan cooling assists the ocean breeze.
oRestaurant LaryssSEAFOOD$$
(%0852 5334 2802; www.floresgids.com; Jl Raya Maumere-Ende; mains 30,000-35,000Rp, fish up to 150,000Rp; hkitchen 9am-10pm)
Don’t miss this beachside fish shack. Sit at a tree-shaded table on the sand and order the catch of the day or a soul-stirring ikan kuah assam (tamarind fish soup). The sambal here demands second helpings. Owner and guide Agustinus Naban’s wife, Cecilia, rubs fish with turmeric and ginger, douses it with lime and then roasts it over coconut shells.
Two very basic rooms (200,000Rp) match the ad hoc architecture and open directly onto the sand.
8Getting There & Away
Flag down passing buses, which run regularly during daylight hours. East to Maumere costs 15,000Rp; west to Moni costs 30,000Rp. A share taxi from Moni to Paga costs from 50,000Rp per person.
Maumere
%0382 / Pop 54,000
Blessed with a long, languid coastline backed by layered hills and fringed with islands, Maumere is a logical terminus to a trans-Flores tour. With good air connections to Bali and Timor, it’s a gateway to Flores Timur (East Flores). Largely razed in the devastating earthquake of 1992, it’s been thoroughly rebuilt and is now a busy, dusty urban hub. Thankfully, you don’t have to stay in the city, with the nicest accommodation options along the coast to the east. Divers will appreciate Maumere’s ‘sea gardens’, destroyed in the quake but now recovered and a diving hotspot accessible from Waiara.
4Sleeping & Eating
oPantai Paris HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0812 3895 8183; www.pantaiparishomestay.wordpress.com; Pantai Paris, Jl Larantuka-Maumere; dm/d 110,000/300,000Rp; 
i) S
Run by an environmentally and socially conscious family, this tropical garden setting beside the sea is our pick for budget accommodation. There are four private rooms with bamboo furniture and mosquito nets and the spacious, nine-bed dorm shares a lovely, semi-outdoor bathroom. Join in a Sunday beach or snorkelling clean-up or support locals with disabilities by buying organic, homemade tea.
Charismatic owner, Susi, makes her own jam, chocolate and even dragonfruit wine. There’s a small shop at the entrance selling accessories made from rubbish collected off the beach and the homestay works closely with an NGO to help educate people on waste management. Close to the airport and Terminal Lokaria.
Wailiti HotelHOTEL$$
(%0382-23416, 0821 4717 5576; wailitihotel@yahoo.co.id; Jl Da Silva; r/bungalow from 400,000/450,000Rp; aWs)
Maumere’s most pleasant accommodation offers tidy rooms and bungalows in spacious grounds on a narrow black-sand beach, complete with novelty animal paddle boats for hire. The simple restaurant serves acceptable seafood and Indonesian standards (mains 35,000Rp to 60,000Rp), and there’s a dive shop on-site. It’s 6.5km west of the centre; a taxi from the airport costs 100,000Rp.
Pasar MalamINDONESIAN$
(Night Market; off Jl Slamet Riyadi; mains from 15,000Rp; h5-11pm)
As well as dirt-cheap Indonesian favourites like nasi goreng, Maumere’s large night market, unsurprisingly, has plenty of stalls grilling fresh fish.
8Information
Banks and ATMs dot the centre.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Maumere is connected to Bali and Kupang. Airline offices and travel agents are clustered in the centre on Jl Pasar Baru Timur.
Maumere’s Frans Seda Airport (Wai Oti Airport) is 3km east of town, 800m off the Maumere–Larantuka road.
A taxi to/from town is a non-negotiable, flat fee of 60,000Rp.
BUS
There are two bus terminals. Buses and Kijang heading east to Larantuka leave from Terminal Lokaria (Jl Raja Centis), 3km east of town. Terminal Madawat (Jl Gajah Mada), 1km southwest of town, is the place for westbound departures. Schedules are rarely precise – be prepared to wait around until there are sufficient passengers, and watch out for buses that pick up passengers from the streets adjoining the terminals, without actually entering them.
TRANSPORT FROM MAUMERE
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bali | Garuda, Wings Air | 2 | daily |
| Kupang | Nam Air, Wings Air | 1 | daily |
Bus
| DESTINATION | TYPE | PRICE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ende | bus | 80,000 | 5 | several daily |
| Ende | car | 100,000 | 4½ | several daily |
| Larantuka | bus | 60,000 | 4 | several daily |
| Larantuka | car | 80,000 | 3 | several daily |
| Moni | bus | 50,000 | 2½ | several daily |
| Moni | car | 80,000 | 3 | several daily |
8Getting Around
Car rental, including driver and fuel, costs 800,000Rp to 1,000,000Rp per day, depending on your destination. You can organise vehicle and motorbike rental at hotels for 100,000Rp.
Waiara
Waiara is the departure point for the Maumere ‘sea gardens’, once regarded as one of Asia’s finest dive destinations. The 1992 earthquake and tsunami destroyed the reefs around Pulau Penman, Pulau Besar and Pulau Babi but they’ve now recovered – with the exception of ‘The Crack’ near Pulau Babi, a consequence of the earthquake and now a diving hotspot where sea life flourishes.
4Sleeping
Wiara is home to some of the region’s nicer accommodation options, featuring beach-side resorts.
Sea World ClubRESORT$$
(Pondok Dunia Laut; %0382-242 5089, 0821 47770 0188; www.flores-seaworldclub.com; Jl Nai Roa; d/tr cottages from 600,000/650,000Rp, beachfront bungalows from 1,100,000Rp; aW)
Just off the Larantuka road is this modest black-sand beach resort, established to provide local jobs and build tourism. There are simple, thatched cottages and more modern and comfortable air-conditioned bungalows. Expect to add up to an additional 200,000Rp per night to listed prices during busy months.
There’s an adequate restaurant (mains 45,000Rp to 95,000Rp) and dive shop (1,000,000Rp for two dives including gear).
Coconut Garden Beach ResortRESORT$$$
(%0821 4426 0185; www.coconutgardenbeachresort.com; Jl Nasional Larantuka Km15; d/bungalow 450,000/1,250,000Rp; aW)
Set among coconut palms, this resort is so spotless it feels like someone’s raking the sand as you walk. Eight bamboo bungalows have undulating roofs and gorgeous outdoor bathrooms, but you’re paying mostly for the setting with the pricey budget rooms (shared bathroom). There’s a restaurant (mains 33,000Rp to 77,000Rp) and water sports, but we love the little details most.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Waiara, catch any Talibura- or Larantuka-bound bus from Maumere 12km to Waiara. It will cost 10,000Rp and take around 20 minutes. Resorts are signposted from the highway.
Wodong
The pod of beaches and resorts just east of Waiara centres on Wodong, 26km east of Maumere. The narrow, palm-dappled beaches here, which include Ahuwair, Wodong and Waiterang, are tranquil and beautiful.
There’s an impressive variety of dive and snorkelling sites with plenty of marine life offshore around Pulau Babi, Pulau Besar and Pulau Pangabatang, a sunken Japanese WWII ship, and colourful microlife in the ‘muck’ (shallow mudflats). Damage to the reefs from a devastating tsunami in 1992 has largely been overcome by new coral growth. In November whale-watching trips are also offered, although you’ll probably see migrating sperm whales spout from the beach.
4Sleeping
Most accommodation options are basic but tasteful beach hideaways located down trails 10m to 500m from the road; they are signposted from the highway.
Sunset CottagesBUNGALOW$
(%0812 4602 3954, 0821 4768 7254; sunsetcottages@yahoo.com.uk; Jl Maumere-Larantuka Km28; d/f 250,000/350,000Rp)
Nestled on a secluded black-sand beach with island views, Sunset Cottages is shaded by swaying coco palms. The thatched, coconut-wood-and-bamboo bungalows have Western toilets and mandis (ladle baths), with decks overlooking the sea. Snorkel gear is available for hire (25,000Rp per day) and there’s a restaurant (mains 25,000Rp to 40,000Rp). Pop next door to Sante Sante (%0813 3734 8453; www.santesante-homestay-flores.com) for a sunset drink.
Lena HouseBUNGALOW$
(%0813 3940 7733; www.lenahouseflores.com; Jl Maumere-Larantuka Km28; r from 175,000Rp)
Lena House has 10 clean bamboo bungalows spread across two properties (Lena 2 is reached by boat) on a spectacular bay framed by jungled mountains. The sweet family arranges snorkelling trips (100,000Rp per person) and treks up Gunung Egon (100,000Rp), although you may choose just to stretch out under the palms and let your mind drift.
oAnkermi Happy DiveBUNGALOW$$
(%text only 0821 4778 1036; www.ankermi-happydive.com; Jl Larantuka-Maumere, Watumita; s/d bungalow from 295,000/365,000Rp; as)
Run by Claudia and Kermi, Balinese-influenced Ankermi has eight cute, tiled and thatched bungalows with private porches and stunning sea views (fan only) or garden views (with air-con). The dive shop is the best in the Maumere area (shore/night/boat dives from €25/35/35). Locally grown, organic rice and vegetables feature in the restaurant (mains 42,000Rp to 95,000Rp).
8Getting There & Away
Wodong, the main village in the area, is on the Maumere–Larantuka road. Take any Talibura, Nangahale or Larantuka bemo or bus from the Lokaria terminal in Maumere for 5000Rp. A bemo from Wodong to Waiterang costs another 5000Rp. A car from Maumere is around 150,000Rp to 200,00Rp and an ojek 75,000Rp to 100,000Rp one way. Buses pass by throughout the day.
Alor Archipelago
The final link of the Lesser Sunda Islands – the chain stretching east of Java – is wild, volcanic and drop-dead gorgeous. There are crumbling red-clay roads, jagged peaks, white-sand beaches and crystal-clear bays offering remarkable diving.
Isolated from the outside world and one another by rugged terrain, the 212,000 inhabitants of this tiny archipelago are divided into 134 tribes speaking 18 languages and 52 dialects. Although the Dutch installed local rajas along the coastal regions after 1908, they had little influence, with people still taking heads into the 1950s. These days animist traditions have been mostly replaced by Muslim and Christian ones. In more populated areas mosques dot the coast beside eye-catching, pastel-tiled graves.
Though a network of simple roads now covers Pulau Alor, boats are still a common form of transport. The few visitors who land here tend to linger on nearby Pulau Kepa or dive these waters from liveaboards.
Kalabahi
%0386 / Pop 61,000
Kalabahi is the chief town on Pulau Alor, located at the end of a spectacular 15km-long, palm-fringed bay on the south coast. Travellers come here to explore its coasts and nearby islands, using the town as a base that pales in comparison to the beaches and promise of diving. Other than some impressive banyan trees that make great points of reference, there’s not much to see in the town’s dusty main drag, unless you happen to be passing by – expect locals to yell out and stop for a chat. Keep an eye out for school children and government officials wearing woven ikat vests over their uniforms on Thursdays to upkeep tradition.
ALOR OFFSHORE
Alor’s dive operators regularly visit upwards of 42 dive sites, sprinkled throughout the archipelago. There are wall dives, slopes, caves, pinnacles, reefs and impressive muck diving in the Alor bay. What makes Alor special are its completely unspoiled reefs with vibrant soft and hard coral intact. Dive sites are never crowded, the water is crystal clear and you may well see a thresher shark, pod of dolphins or, come November, migrating sperm whales. Just know the current is frequently unpredictable and the water can be as low as 22°C. The cool temperature is what keeps the coral nourished, and spectacular. It’s best to have 30 dives under your belt before venturing into these waters.
All divers must pay a marine park fee of 50,000Rp per day to fund the management of a 4000-sq-km marine park. The WWF works with the government to help manage and take care of this unique marine environment.
Sandwiched between Pulau Pantar and Alor is Pulau Pura, which has some of Alor’s best dive sites. Pulau Ternate, not to be confused with the Maluku version, also has some magnificent dive and snorkel sites. Uma Pura is an interesting weaving village on Ternate, with a rather prominent wooden church. To get there, charter a boat from Alor Besar or Alor Kecil (150,000Rp), or take a motorbike to the Padang location of Alor Besar Village and pay 10,000Rp each way.
1Sights & Activities
Pasar KedelangMARKET
(Kedelang; h7.30am-7.30pm)
Mingle with locals at Alor’s most exciting wet market. Pyramids of vegetables are piled on tables; betel nut, flower and leaves are arranged on tarps on the ground; and kenari (almond-like nut) is everywhere. Pick up nasi and accompaniments wrapped up for 5000Rp and bring your bargaining hat to purchase local ikat.
Pantai MaimolBEACH
One of the best beaches near Kalabahi is this ribbon of white sand 10km out of town on the airport road. You can easily laze away a few hours here. When we last visited, hotel construction was about to commence across the road.
Museum Seribu MokoMUSEUM
(Museum of 1000 Drums; %0852 3868 9169; Jl Diponegoro; entry 15,000Rp; h8am-1pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
Named for its collection of moko (bronze drums; the 1000 is purely figurative), this humble museum located just west of the market has some decent English booklets about the collection, which includes more than 700 cultural artefacts from Alor’s 17 districts and, of course, drums. Some bear designs dating to Southeast Asia in 700 BC and another was supposedly uncovered after its location was revealed in a dream.
Alor DiveDIVING
(%0813 3964 8148, 0386-222 2663; www.alor-dive.com; Jl Suka Maju; 2-dive day trips from €79; h8am-4pm)
This dive shop run by a German expat organises all manner of diving trips, from half-day to a week or more. It has years of experience in the beautiful local waters.
Mila SalimTOURS
(%0822 3619 2859; milanur266@yahoo.com)
Mila Salim is a wonderful local guide and English teacher. She can help with trips across Alor and opened Kalabahi’s first oleh-oleh (souvenir) art shop supporting local craftspeople.
4Sleeping & Eating
Cantik HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 4450 9941, 0386-21030; Jl Dahlia 12; s/d 150,000/200,000Rp; a)
These 12 tiled rooms with private bathrooms and air-con are basic but quiet, located in a shady residential neighbourhood. Rent a motorbike for the day (75,000Rp) and stick around for communal meals (from 25,000Rp per person) as the co-owner is a wonderful cook. At breakfast, Jacob the caged bird will wish you good morning in both English and Indonesian.
Dinda Home Stay across the road is a good alternative (singles and doubles cost 200,000Rp and 250,000Rp).
Pulo Alor HotelHOTEL$$
(%0386-21727, 0852 3380 0512; puloalorhotel@gmail.com; Jl Eltari 12; r from 549,000Rp; aWs)
Rumah Makan JemberINDONESIAN$
(%0813 5392 9118; Jl Pamglima Polim 20; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h7am-7.30pm)
Before you turn down Jl Suka Maju to reach Alor Dive, stop at this fantastic local haunt. Make a beeline for the counter, piled with sayur (vegetables), chicken sate, noodles, tempe and more. Make your decision and then pull up a chair in what feels like someone’s tiled dining room, complete with garish green curtains.
Resto MamaINDONESIAN$$
(%0822 1320 2525; Jl Buton 15; mains 25,000-65,000Rp; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri & Sun, to 11pm Sat; W)
This wood-and-bamboo dining room is perched over the bay on stilts, 50m west of Pasar Kedelang. There’s plenty of seafood and Indo fare, but the house specialty is ikan kuah assam mama, a sweet and sour fish soup with a fiery, tamarind-inflected broth. Service can be painfully slow.
Ask about using the karaoke room (50,000Rp for one hour).
8Information
Bank BNI (Jl Sudirman; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) ATM available.
Hospital (%0386-21008; Jl Dr Soetomo 8; h24hr) Centrally located, 24-hour hospital.
8Getting There & Away
Wings Air makes the 45-minute flight to Kupang. The tiny airport is comically disorganised, and 16km from Kalabahi. Check in early to avoid the mad scrum.
ADSP ferries serve Kupang and Larantuka. Ferries leave from the ferry terminal 1km southwest of the town centre; it’s a 10-minute walk or a 3000Rp bemo ride. There are two weekly to Kupang (114,000Rp to 168,000Rp, 18 hours), and one to Larantuka (107,000Rp, 12 hours). Pelni ships leave from the main pier in the centre of town and visit Kupang, Sabu, Rote, Ende, Waingapu, Bima and more on a monthly schedule serviced by three ships. The Pelni office (%0386-21195; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Cokroaminoto 5; h8am-5pm) is near the pier.
Buses and bemos to Alor Kecil cost 5000Rp and take 30 minutes. To Alor Besar it’s 7000Rp for the 40-minute journey. Both leave from the central Kalabahi Pasar Tabakar and Pasar Kedelang. You can also take a taxi from the airport from 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp.
8Getting Around
The airport is 16km from town. Taxis cost a fixed 100,000Rp, or 50,000Rp for one person.
Transport around town costs 3000Rp by bemo. To get out to the villages, look for blue bemos that cost between 5000Rp and 10,000Rp.
Rent a motorbike at Cantik Homestay for 75,000Rp per day, elsewhere they’re 100,000Rp. Ojeks are easily hired for 150,000Rp per day.
Local guide Mila Salim can help with trips across Alor.
Around Kalabahi
About 13km east of central Kalabahi is Desa Takpala, the majestically preserved, mountain-top village of the Abui people, Alor’s largest ethnic group. It’s one of the more accessible and tourist-friendly villages, with locals happy to show you their multi-level houses with pyramid-shaped grass roofs designed to store food. A 50,000Rp donation is appropriate when signing the guestbook.
If you happen to visit at the same time as a larger group, the experience can feel a little contrived; visitors dress up in traditional garb and take photographs and a small handicraft market suddenly appears. On the plus side, only larger groups generally organise traditional lego lego dancing demonstrations due to the cost, so you might be able to piggyback off bigger numbers and join in. Christian from Cantik Homestay can organise the performance from 1,500,000Rp.
You can also do a fascinating village tour of Alor’s bird’s head, the island’s distinctively shaped northern peninsula. From Kalabahi head northeast to Mombang, up through the clove trees and coffee plots of Kopidil (where they make ceremonial clothes out of tree bark) to Tulta, and then to the stunning sweep of white sand that is Batu Putih. It’s backed by granite bluffs and cornfields, and cradles a turquoise and emerald lagoon, 10km north of Mali. Hire a motorbike (100,000Rp per day) or charter an ojek (150,000Rp per day). Bring plenty of water, a boxed lunch, pinang (betel nut), smokes and the best Bahasa Indonesia you’ve got to share with your new friends.
For hikers or motorcyclists who like rugged backcountry, consider a longer trip; two or three days hiking along the verdant, mountainous spine of Central Alor. One route connects Mainang with Kelaisi and on to Apui. Another loop begins in Ateng, stops in Melang and ends in Lakwati. These are all very poor, purely traditional villages. The roads and trails are very bad, so are not easy journeys. You’ll be sleeping in basic village accommodation (per person from 100,000Rp), and meals will be extremely basic, too. Not all villages have toilets, and you’ll need to bring extra food and water. Be prepared.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PANTAR
The second-largest island of the Alor group is way off the beaten track. A daily ferry from Kalabahi (50,000Rp, from three hours depending on the weather) docks at Baranusa with a straggle of coconut palms, a homestay and a couple of kiosks.
Smouldering Gunung Sirung (862m) draws a few hearty climbers each year. From Baranusa, take a truck to Kakamauta and walk for two to three hours to Sirung’s crater. Bring water from Baranusa and get permission from locals before hiking; they believe that climbing Gunung Sirung at certain times of year can cause it to erupt and destroy precious harvests.
Built and operated by a French-Slovenian couple on the island’s eastern shore, Alor Divers (%0813 1780 4133; www.alor-divers.com; 4-night dive packages from €740) S caters exclusively to divers and their plus-ones. Guests stay in smart, thatched bungalows and dive at least twice daily. Orcas, sperm and pilot whales migrate off the west coast in June and December.
rBeaches
There are nice coral beaches in both Alor Besar and nearby Alor Kecil, with excellent snorkelling. The best is at Sebanjar, 3km north of Alor Kecil. The water here is wonderfully cool, with a stunning soft-coral garden offshore. Alor Kecil is also the jumping-off point for Pulau Kepa.
2Activities
Dugong SpottingSNORKELING
(%0812 3697 8212; Jl Bandara, Kabola Village)
A couple of hundred metres from the airport is a colourful house with a concrete dugong built into the ground. It belongs to Onesimus Laa, a dugong whisperer and environmentalist who organises trips to Sika Island to see the ikan duyung. Pop in at least one day before to book (150,000Rp per person, 1½ to 2 hour trips).
These dugong can grow up to 3m long and weigh 150kg. Onesimus has strict rules including small groups only, no diving, only snorkelling with his permission, keeping a distance when snorkelling and avoiding all physical contact with the beautiful sea creatures.
Lazy Turtle DiveDIVING
(%0813 3759 1497; www.lazyturtledive.com; Jl Raya, Alor Kecil, next to Dermaga Jetty; daily drive trips/4-night package from 1,200,000/6,000,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
This Australian-UK operation opposite Pulau Kepa runs a slick ship. Book in for daily dives or accommodation packages and then jump aboard Naughty Nudi to explore Alor’s reefs and muck sites. Upon your return, enjoy an outdoor shower, make the most of the camera-charging station and chill out in the lopo (meeting house).
4Sleeping & Eating
Beach Bungalow ResortBUNGALOW$$
(Alor Beach Bungalows; %0823 4109 5312; Pantai Sebanjar; bungalows 250,000Rp)
These nine, basic but large wooden bungalows might be dark and have bucket-flush toilets, but it’s all about location. Positioned on Pantai Sebanjar, one of Alor’s best snorkelling spots, where the coral beach blushes pink in the sun. Let the lovely ladies know what you’re craving and they’ll grill fish, chicken and big serves of fresh vegetables (from 25,000Rp).
oLa P’tite KepaDIVE RESORT$$
(%SMS/WhatsApp only 0813 3910 2403; www.la-petite-kepa.com; Pulau Kepa; bungalow with/without bathroom per person from 375,000/300,000Rp) S
Upon arriving at the airport drivers shout, “La P’tite Kepa?” – thus is the popularity of this French-owned, solar-powered dive resort. There are 11 bungalows, three of which are traditional Alor home replicas with shared bathrooms, relaxing open decks and beds in the roof. Fresh and memorable meals are eaten family-style, but bringing cheese and chocolate is playfully encouraged by staff.
Most of the bungalows are standard thatched bamboo bungalows with attached outdoor bathrooms. All have sea and island views. There are three beaches, including an exquisite sliver of white sand on the west side with spectacular sunset views and good snorkelling offshore. Snorkelling equipment is available for 50,000Rp per day, and snorkellers can join the dive boat for 100,000Rp per day. In July and August divers get priority for bookings. Reserve your room well in advance.
The resort recycles, and conserves water and power. It costs 20,000Rp each way to get there by local fishing boat from the mainland.
oCelyn KafeCAFE$
(%0812 3909 4800; Pantai Mali; snacks 8,000-27,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
Set on the sand, framed by mangroves and shaded by palm trees, this is Alor’s best spot to while away an afternoon. Order from the blackboard menu: there’s juice, tea and coffee a dozen ways – but don’t leave without ubi goreng sambal, crunchy-fried fingers of cassava with mild chilli sauce; Alor’s answer to wedges.
When we last visited two guesthouses were under construction.
7Shopping
Sentra Tenun Ikat Gunung MakoTEXTILES
(Tenun Mako; %0813 3914 8116; Jl Sumur Tuti Panjaitan, Pantai Hula, Alor Besar)
Ten metres off the road beneath some banana trees you’ll find Mama Sariat Libana, mother of Alornese ikat, holding court or playing cards. Originally from nearby Ternate Island, she not only supports local weavers by providing this basic showroom, but is responsible for uncovering 202 colours from natural materials, including several kinds of seaweed.