Lombok
POP 3.4 MILLION
Long overshadowed by its superstar neighbour across the Lombok Strait, Lombok has a steady hum about it that catches the ear of travellers looking for something different from Bali. Blessed with exquisite white-sand beaches, epic surf, a lush forested interior, and hiking trails through tobacco and rice fields, Lombok is fully loaded with equatorial allure. Oh, and you’ll probably notice mighty Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest volcano, its summit complete with hot springs and a dazzling crater lake.
And there’s much more. Lombok’s southern coastline is nature on a very grand scale: breathtaking turquoise bays, world-class surf breaks and massive headlands.
Transport options are good in Lombok and the mood could not be more laid-back. If you’re planning to head further east in Nusa Tenggara, you can pass through Lombok overland to Sumbawa, or catch a boat to Flores.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Lombok is very accessible by air, with daily flights to/from major Indonesian destinations such as Jakarta and Denpasar, plenty more to lesser Indonesian hubs, and international connections with Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
Lombok International Airport, near Praya, is getting increasingly busy. There is good service to Bali and Java, with fewer services going east into Nusa Tenggara. Some routes to less-frequented Indonesian destinations require transit through Denpasar, Jakarta and smaller domestic hubs such as Surabaya and Kupang. Daily flights also serve the international hubs of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. You’ll find travel agents for airline tickets in Kuta, Mataram and Senggigi.
BOAT
Public ferries connect Lembar on Lombok’s west coast with Bali, and Labuhan Lombok on its east coast with Sumbawa. Fast-boat companies link Lombok with the Gili Islands and Bali. These are centred on Senggigi, Bangsal and Gili Gede.
PUBLIC BUS
Mandalika Terminal in Mataram is the departure point for major cities in Bali, Sumbawa, and Flores, via inter-island ferries. For long-distance services, book tickets a day or two ahead at the terminal, or from a travel agent.
If you get to the terminal before 8am without a reservation, there may indeed be a spare seat on a bus going in your direction, but don’t count on it, especially during holidays.
There are direct buses from Denpasar on Bali that connect to the Padangbai–Lembar ferry and then continue on to the Mandalika Terminal in Mataram (225,000Rp). Buses also connect to Bima via the Lombok–Sumbawa ferry (225,000Rp).
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
There are tourist shuttle-bus services between the main tourist centres in Lombok (Senggigi and Kuta) and most tourist centres in south Bali and the Gilis. Typically these combine a minibus with public ferries. Tickets can be booked directly or at a travel agent.
8Getting Around
Moving around Lombok is easy, with a good – though often traffic-clogged – road across the middle of the island between Mataram and Labuhan Lombok.
BOAT
Regular public and private water transport serves all the major offshore destinations in Lombok. Bear in mind that safety standards can be quite cavalier, and it’s not uncommon to ride on crowded ferries in quite high seas. However, services will be cancelled when seas are too rough, a particular feature of the rainy season.
BUS & BEMO
Mandalika Terminal is 3km east of central Mataram; other regional terminals are in Praya, Anyar and Pancor (near Selong). You may have to go via one or more of these terminals to get from one part of Lombok to another, although you can flag bemos from the roadside. Fixed fares should be displayed, and short trips start at 5000Rp. Public transport becomes scarce in the late afternoon and normally ceases after dark.
CAR & MOTORBIKE
It’s easy to hire a car in all the tourist areas (with/without driver per day from 600,000/350,000Rp). Motorbikes are also widely available from about 70,000Rp per day. Check your insurance arrangements carefully. Some agencies do not offer any coverage at all, and others offer only basic coverage. Even insured Balinese vehicles are often not covered in Lombok.
There’s little reason to bring a car or motorbike from Bali when you can avoid the ferry charges and easily rent your own wheels on Lombok.
TAXI
Reliable metered taxis operated by Blue Bird Lombok Taksi are found in west Lombok. Motorbike ride-hailing app Go-Jek (www.go-jek.com) is useful for cheap short trips around Mataram and west Lombok.
Mataram
%0370 / Pop 402,843
Lombok’s capital is a sprawling amalgam of several once-separate towns with fuzzy borders: Ampenan (the port), Mataram (the administrative centre), Cakranegara (the business centre, often called simply ‘Cakra’) and Sweta to the east, where you’ll find the Mandalika bus terminal. Mataram stretches for 12km from east to west.
There aren’t many tourist attractions, yet Mataram’s broad tree-lined avenues buzz with traffic, thrum with motorbikes and teem with classic markets and malls. If you’re hungry for a blast of Indo realism, you’ll find it here. Sights around Mataram include the old port town of Ampenan – if you pause you’ll discover a still-tangible sense of the Dutch colonial era in the leafy main street and the older buildings.
1Sights
oPura LingsarTEMPLE
(off Jl Gora II; grounds free, temple entry by donation; 
h8am-6pm)
This large temple compound is the holiest in Lombok. Built in 1714 by King Anak Agung Ngurah, and nestled beautifully in lush rice fields, it’s multidenominational, with a temple for Balinese Hindus (Pura Gaduh), and one for followers of Lombok’s mystical take on Islam, the Wektu Telu religion.
It’s just 6km east of Mataram in the village of Lingsar. Take a bemo from the Mandalika Terminal to Narmada, another to Lingsar and ask to be dropped off at the temple.
Islamic Center Nusa Tenggara BaratMOSQUE
(%0819 1732 5666; http://islamiccenter.ntbprov.go.id; cnr Jl Udayana & Jl Pejanggik; 5000Rp; hcasual visits 10am-5pm)
Opened in 2016, and superficially damaged in the 2018 quakes, this towering green-and-gold mosque is the most striking building in Lombok, with fabulous views from the top of its tallest minaret (it rises 114m above Mataram). Foreigners in shorts will be provided with more modest clothing before entering.
Pura MeruHINDU TEMPLE
(Jl Selaparang; h8am-5pm) 
F
Pura Meru is the largest and second-most important Hindu temple on Lombok. Built in 1720, it’s dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The inner court has 33 small shrines and three thatched teak-wood meru (multi-tiered shrines). The central meru, with 11 tiers, is Shiva’s house; the meru to the north, with nine tiers, is Vishnu’s; and the nine-tiered meru to the south is Brahma’s.
4Sleeping
Hotel Melati ViktorGUESTHOUSE$
(%0370-633830; Jl Abimanyu 1; r 120,000Rp, with air-con & breakfast 200,000Rp; 
a
W)
The high ceilings, 37 clean rooms and Balinese-style courtyards, complete with Hindu statues, make this one of the best-value places in town. It’s forever growing and is now spread across three buildings on either side of Jl Abimanyu.
5Eating & Drinking
The streets around the faded Mataram Mall are lined with Western-style fast-food outlets, Indonesian noodle bars and warungs (food shacks).
Taliwang Irama 3INDONESIAN$
(%0370-629354; Jl Ade Irma Suryani 10; mains 20,000-50,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
Excellent spicy Indonesian dishes lure in diners day in and day out. Eat in the plant-shaded courtyard or inside. As testament to the popularity, there are vendors out front. The chicken here seems even more tender and spicy than the average bird on Lombok.
MirasaBAKERY$
(%0370-633096; Jl AA Gde Ngurah 88; snacks from 4000Rp; h6am-10pm)
Cakra’s middle-class families adore this modern bakery. It does doughnuts, cookies and cakes as well as local wonton stuffed with chicken.
oRollpinINTERNATIONAL$$
(www.rollpin.id; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 50,000-100,000Rp; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun; W)
Fine dining, Mataram-style, in a leafy creekside setting northeast of the centre. Dig into grilled whole-fish snapper, Lombok duck or steamed mahi-mahi and wash it down with creative mocktails like Pin Pure (mint, ginger, lime and honey). Excellent service and a lengthy kids menu add to the appeal.
Maktal Coffee BarCOFFEE
(www.facebook.com/maktalcoffeebar; Jl Maktal; h9am-11pm; W)
This hipstery little coffee bar does everything from cold drips to caramel lattes. The brews are local, strong, and you can buy the beans afterwards. Also does pancakes, dumplings and Indo staples (20,000Rp to 30,000Rp).
8Information
ATM machines are ubiquitous near malls. Most banks are found on or around Jl Pejanggik.
Rumah Sakit Harapan Keluarga (%0370-617 7009; www.harapankeluarga.co.id; Jl Ahmad Yani 9; h24hr) The best private hospital on Lombok is just east of central Mataram and has English-speaking doctors.
Kantor Imigrasi (Immigration Office; %0370-632520; Jl Udayana 2; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Government office for renewing your visa. The process takes three or four days.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
Should you want to sail to a far-flung Indonesian island from Lombok, you can make schedule enquiries and purchase tickets at the local Pelni Office (%0370-637212; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Industri 1; h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8-11am Fri), the national shipping line.
BUS
The Mandalika Terminal (Jl Pasar Bertais B8), 3km from the centre and surrounded by the city’s main market, is Lombok’s biggest bus and bemo hub. Use the official ticket office to avoid touts and take yellow bemos to the city centre (5000Rp).
Long-distance buses for Sumbawa and Flores depart from here twice daily at 9am and 3pm. If you’re travelling to Labuan Bajo on Flores (375,000Rp, 24 hours), you’ll have to overnight in Bima (225,000Rp, 12 hours) if you take the morning bus, though the afternoon one is direct. Damri buses over to Maluk and the Sumbawa surf towns leave at 9am and 9pm (90,000Rp, six hours).
A direct shuttle bus to Kuta departs at 11am daily (1½ hours, 60,000Rp). Buses and bemos departing hourly from the Mandalika Terminal include the following:
| Destination |
Fare (Rp) |
Duration |
| Airport (Damri Bus) |
30,000 |
45min |
| Kuta (via Praya & Sengkol) |
60,000 |
2-3hr |
| Labuhan Lombok |
35,000 |
2½hr |
| Lembar |
20,000 |
45min |
| Senggigi (via Ampenan) |
15,000 |
1hr |
| Senggigi (direct Damri Bus) |
40,000 |
45min |
8Getting Around
For a reliable metered taxi, use Blue Bird Lombok Taksi. Solo travellers should download Go-Jek (www.go-jek.com), an app for cheap and reliable ojeks (motorbike taxis).
Lembar
%0370 / Pop 44,426
Lembar is Lombok’s main port for ferries from Bali. The setting – think azure inlets ringed by soaring green hills – is stunning, but few folk stay longer than their ferry transit requires.
8Getting There & Away
Public ferries (child/adult/motorcycle/car 29,000/46,000/125,000/917,000Rp, five to six hours) travel between Lembar’s large ferry port and Padangbai in Bali. Passenger tickets are sold near the pier. Boats supposedly run 24 hours and leave about every 90 minutes, but the service can be unreliable – boats have even caught fire and run aground.
Bemo and bus connections are abundant and bemos run regularly to the Mandalika Terminal for 25,000Rp, so there’s no reason to linger. Taxis cost around 100,000Rp to Mataram and 200,000Rp to Senggigi.
Southwestern Peninsula
The sweeping coastline that stretches west of Lembar is blessed with boutique sleeps on deserted beaches and tranquil offshore islands. You can while away weeks here among the famous surf breaks, salty old mosques, friendly locals and relatively pristine islands. In fact, the buzz has started, and the beautiful offshore islands are now touted as ‘the next Gilis’.
The only off-note on the landscape is the dull town of Sekotong, which you have to pass through on your way west. Otherwise, you follow the narrow coastal road along the contours of the peninsula, skirting white-sand beach after white-sand beach on your way to the village of Bangko Bangko and the legendary surf break, Tanjung Desert (Desert Point/Bangko-Bangko; access per person/vehicle 10,000/5000Rp).
Often called the world’s best wave, this famous break draws skilled surfers from around the globe. Patience is a virtue as the conditions sometimes go calm for a time. But when the swells are coming in, you get very long, hollow waves that usually end in a barrel.
You’ll discover a thin strip of white sand and a row of flimsy bamboo cafes where you can scarf down simple meals, quaff cold beer and gaze out at the break. Phone service is dodgy and the area gets very crowded during peak surfing season (May to October) so you may or may not find room at the very basic inns. Desert Point Bungalows (%0878 6585 5310; nurbaya_sari@yahoo.com; Tanjung Desert; bungalow 200,000Rp) is the most ‘upscale’ place to stay (that’s because there’s a phone number you can try calling) with 10 rather shack-like bungalows. A generator provides power at certain times, and there’s a two-level surf-viewing platform.
Infrequent bemos run between Lembar and Pelangan (30,000Rp, 1½ hours) via Sekotong and Tembowong. West of Pelangan transport is highly irregular. Although winding, the road is in good shape almost until the end, when suddenly it switches to deeply rutted gravel and dirt. You can traverse it with a car or motorbike, but you’ll have to drive at a walking pace. After 2km you’ll reach a fork; turn right for the fishing village of Bangko Bangko. Turn left for another 1km of road misery that ends at the oceanic wonders of Tanjung Desert. There’s an entrance fee of 10,000Rp per person and 5000Rp per vehicle.
Gili Gede & The Southwest Gilis
%0370
Gili Gede (pronounced the way an Aussie might say g’day) is the largest and most developed of the Southwest Gilis with a few bungalows, some paved motorbike paths, friendly fishing villages and little else.
This chain of small sandy isles promises the peace and tranquility that were once hallmarks of those other Gili Islands to the north. On each island, soft white sands give way to turquoise waters and prismatic undersea realms that are ripe for exploration. To island hop these ‘secret gilis’ on a local fishing boat is to float back to a simpler time.
4Sleeping & Eating
Gili Gede is the most natural base for exploring the Southwest Gilis with the largest selection of accommodation. Refreshingly, there is no real tourist ghetto here as small bungalow complexes are found on a variety of beaches across the island. You can also find more isolated accommodation on Gili Asahan and Gili Layar.
Most visitors eat where they sleep, through there are a few stand-alone restaurants on Gili Gede serving both Indonesian and European fare.
Via VacareBUNGALOW$
(%0812 3732 4565; www.viavacare.com; Gili Gede; all-inclusive dm 300,000Rp, s/d bungalow 500,000/750,000Rp)
This all-inclusive resort for the backpacker set envisions itself as a place to practice the art of doing nothing. Rates include three daily meals, snorkelling gear, yoga (in high season) and transport to/from the main harbor. The ‘dorm’ is just a mattress on an open-air platform, but the bungalows are spacious and have sea views. Expect cold bucket showers as there’s no running water.
oHula HoopBUNGALOW$$
(www.hulagili.com; Gili Gede; r/bungalow 650,000/950,000Rp; W)
This fantastically bohemian getaway is tucked away on a quiet west-coast hill with four stylish lumbung (rice-barn) rooms and four bigger and better-appointed bungalows. All offer spectacular sea and sunset views and get a great breeze. There are also seaside hammocks and funky chill zones with hanging shell art.
oPearl Beach ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%0819 0724 7696; www.pearlbeach-resort.com; Gili Asahan; cottage/bungalow from 790,000/1,190,000Rp; W)
One of the few places to sleep on Gili Asahan; cottages are simple, bamboo affairs with outdoor bathrooms and a hammock on the porch. The 10 bungalows are chic, with polished concrete floors, soaring ceilings, gorgeous outdoor bathrooms, and fabulous daybed swings on the wooden porches. There’s great diving, kayaks and more.
Kokomo Gili GedeRESORT$$$
(%0819 0732 5135; http://kokomogiligede.com; Gili Gede; villas incl breakfast from 2,750,000Rp; aW
s)
The poshest resort in the Southwest Gilis, Kokomo has 15 large villas in a beautiful position right by the ocean. Units have fridges and other kitchen appliances. The decor picks up the stark white beauty of the sand. A stay here will be a long study in white, backed by the blue of the water.
Tanjungan BukitINDONESIAN$$
(%0818 0529 0314; https://tanjungan-bukit-id.book.direct; Gili Gede; mains 40,000-90,000Rp)
This is easily the island’s most stylish bar and restaurant. Dine on fresh seafood and refined Sumatran fare at the bougainvillea-shaded tables, or down some cocktails (or wine by the glass!) on the beanbag-filled deck.
There are six beautifully designed bungalows surrounding a pool on the hill behind the restaurant (500,000Rp to 600,000Rp).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SNORKELLING THE SOUTHWEST GILIS
With untouched corals and a wealth of marine life (including lionfish, scorpionfish, moray eels and large schools of fusiliers), snorkelling the shallow reefs around the Southwest Gilis is a highlight of any trip to Lombok.
The northwestern coast of Gili Gede provides the best shore snorkelling for those sleeping on the island, but you’ll probably want to hire a boatman to take you to the southeastern coasts of Gili Layar and Gili Rengit, both of which have extremely healthy coral and massive schools of fish. You can also tack on tiny Gili Goleng, where seahorses amble around in the offshore seagrass. The entire trip should cost around 500,000Rp for the boat and gear.
Closer to Lembar are the smaller islands of the Gita Nada group (Gili Nanggu, Gili Kedis, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudak), all of which are fantastic for snorkelling. Boatmen can take you here from Gili Gede for about 600,000Rp, or you can visit on a day trip from Kuta with Scuba Froggy or Mimpi Manis.
8Getting There & Away
Taxi boats (per person from 25,000Rp) shuttle from Tembowong on the mainland to Gili Gede, Gili Asahan or Gili Layar. You’ll see them near the old Pertamina gas station. There is no fixed price or schedule, but there are always boatmen waiting in the daylight hours. When you’re done negotiating the price, they’ll take you directly to your accommodation.
Gili Getaway (%0813 3707 4147; http://giligetaway.com; Kokomo Gili Gede) has daily fast boat services from Gili Gede to Gili T and Gili Air (450,000Rp), as well as Senggigi (250,000Rp) and Serangan Harbour on Bali (710,000Rp).
8Getting Around
There are no cars or taxis on the island (though a few residents have motorbikes). Unless you hire a fisherman to drop you at a distant beach, walking around the perimeter – or along interior paths – is the only way to get around.
Senggigi
%0370 / Pop 52,000
Lombok’s original tourist resort, Senggigi enjoys a fine location along a series of sweeping bays, with light-sand beaches below a backdrop of jungle-clad mountains and coconut palms. In the evening a setting blood-red sun sinks into the surf next to the giant triangular cone of Bali’s Gunung Agung.
Less trendy these days than the Gilis or Kuta, and with an older crowd, Senggigi offers some excellent-value hotels and restaurants, many of which were hit hard by the 2018 earthquakes. While it remains somewhat tacky along its fringe, big strides were made both before the quakes and during the rebuilding phase to rein in some of the more salacious elements and return this family-friendly resort town to its 1990s heyday.
The greater Senggigi area spans 10km of coastal road; the upscale neighbourhood of Mangsit is 3km north of central Senggigi, while just beyond lie the picturesque beaches of Malimbu and Nipah.
Senggigi
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
Pura Batu BolongHINDU TEMPLE
(off Jl Raya Senggigi; admission by donation; h7am-7pm)
It’s not the grandest, but Pura Batu Bolong is Lombok’s most appealing Hindu temple, and particularly lovely at sunset. Join ever-welcoming members of the Balinese community as they leave offerings at the 14 altars and pagodas that tumble down a rocky volcanic outcrop into the foaming sea about 2km south of central Senggigi. The rock underneath the temple has a natural hole, hence the name (batu bolong literally means ‘rock with hole’).
2Activities
Snorkelling & Diving
There’s reasonable snorkelling off the point in Senggigi, 3km north of the town. You can rent gear (per day 50,000Rp) from several spots on the beach. Diving trips from Senggigi usually visit the Gili Islands.
Blue CoralDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-693441; Jl Raya Senggigi; 2 dives 850,000Rp, open-water course 4,950,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
This locally run dive shop in the heart of Senggigi offers no-decompression dives at between 18m and 22m deep in the waters off western Lombok and the Gili Islands. It also offers PADI certification courses and accommodation packages at the neat, modern guesthouse behind the shop.
Dream DiversDIVING
(map Google map; %0812 3754 583; www.dreamdivers.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; intro dives from 910,000Rp)
The Senggigi office of the Gili diving original. Runs snorkelling trips out to the Gilis for 400,000Rp. It also organises activities such as Rinjani treks and runs dive courses.
Massages & Spas
Very determined local masseurs, armed with mats, oils and attitude, hunt for business on Senggigi’s beaches. Expect to pay about 80,000Rp for one hour after bargaining. Most hotels can arrange a masseur to visit your room; rates start at about 100,000Rp. Be warned, some of the streetside ‘salons’ you’ll find are fronts for more salacious services.
oQamboja SpaSPA
(%0370-693800; www.quncivillas.com; Qunci Villas, Mangsit; massages from US$30; h8am-10pm)
Gorgeous hotel spa where you select your choice of oil depending on the effect and mood you require from your massage (uplifting, harmony…); types available include Thai, Balinese and shiatsu. It also offers yoga classes at 8am daily.
4Sleeping
Senggigi’s accommodation is very spread out, but even if you’re located a few kilometres away (say, in Mangsit), you won’t be isolated as taxis are inexpensive. Travellers with a bigger budget will find an excellent spread of options; backpackers fewer.
Many businesses in Senggigi were closed at the time of research due to a series of high magnitude earthquakes between July and August 2018.
TempatkuGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0812 4612 9504; tempatkulombok@gmail.com; Jl Pantai Senggigi, Senggigi Plaza; r 200,000-240,000Rp; aW)
A spotless, centrally located budget option above a tasty Indonesian restaurant of the same name. The large, tiled rooms have some nice local touches and share two common bathrooms with hot water. There’s also a helpful tour-booking desk onsite.
BC InnGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0370-619 7880, 0876 595 0549; http://bcinnsenggigi.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; r from 200,000Rp; W)
Spick and span, comfortable and right in the heart of Senggigi, BC is named for the Blue Coral dive shop, which it sits behind. All rooms have satellite TV, wi-fi, decent beds, walk-in showers and wooden decor. Two people buying a dive package get a night free.
BalekuGUESTHOUSE$
(%0818 0360 0009; Jl Raya Senggigi; r 225,000-300,000Rp; aWs)
Set 300m south of Pura Batu Bolong, this thatched brick compound is compact, but there’s a range of 15 good-value rooms, the most expensive of which have hot water and air-con. It’s a little out of the way, but it offers free transport to and from Senggigi town. The pool seems to fill all available space.
Sendok HotelHOTEL$
(map Google map; %0813 3743 5453; Jl Raya Senggigi; dm 135,000Rp, r with fan/air-con from 200,000/400,000Rp; aWs)
Fronted by a friendly bar-restaurant, this hotel offers 17 rooms amid lovingly tended gardens nibbled by sunburnt rabbits and embellished with Hindu shrines and statues. The cheaper rooms are basic and don’t have hot water. There’s a huge jump in quality if you spend a few more rupiahs. All have private front porches.
Sunset HouseHOTEL$$
(%0370-692020; www.sunsethouse-lombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi 66; r incl breakfast 800,000-1,100,000Rp; aWs)
Offers 20 rooms, all with a tasteful, well-equipped simplicity, in a quiet ocean-front location towards Pura Batu Bolong. Rooms on the upper floors have sweeping ocean views towards Bali. Wi-fi is only available in public areas. Good pool area and deck.
Chandi Boutique ResortRESORT$$$
(%0370-692198; www.the-chandi.com; Jl Raya Senggigi, Batu Layar; r from US$150; aWs)
A stylish boutique hotel amid the palms about 1km south of Pura Batu Bolong. Each of the 15 luxe bungalows has an outdoor living room, and a hip modern interior with high ceilings and groovy outdoor bathrooms. The ample ocean-front perch is likely to absorb your daylight hours.
Jeeva KluiRESORT$$$
(%0370-693035; www.jeevaklui.com; Jl Raya Klui Beach; r from US$200, villas from US$265; aWs)
This is why you came to the tropics: a palm-shaded, shimmering infinity pool and a lovely, almost private beach, sheltered by a rocky outcrop. The 35 rooms and villas are evocatively thatched, and have bamboo columns and private porches. Villas are luxurious, private and have their own pools. It’s one bay north of Mangsit.
5Eating
Senggigi’s dining scene ranges from fancy international eating to simple warungs. At sunset, locals head to hilltop lookouts alongside Jl Raya Senggigi where vendors sell grilled corn and fresh coconuts – a great experience for a sober sundowner. Many of the more tourist-oriented places offer free transport for evening diners – phone for a ride.
Warung Cak PoerINDONESIAN$
(www.facebook.com/warungcakpoer; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
This roadside warung south of town feeds the locals with hot-outta-the-wok Indo classics. Grab a plastic stool at a battered metal table, open a pack of krupuk (Indonesian crackers) and order the nasi goreng, made extra hot (ekstra pedas) and with extra garlic (bawang putih ekstra). You’ll be smiling (and sweating) through tears.
oCoco BeachINDONESIAN$$
(%0817 578 0055; off Jl Raya Senggigi, Pantai Kerandangan; mains 55,000-70,000Rp; h11am-9pm; 
v)
This wonderful beachside restaurant 2km north of Senggigi has a blissfully secluded setting off the main road. Dining is at individual thatch-covered tables, with many choices for vegetarians. The nasi goreng and madras curry are locally renowned, and the seafood is the best in the area. It has a full bar and blends its own authentic jamu tonics (herbal medicines).
oCafe AlbertoITALIAN$$
(%0370-693039; www.cafealberto.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 55,000-115,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
A longstanding, beachside Italian kitchen, this place serves a variety of pasta dishes, but is known for its pizza. It offers free transport to and from your hotel, as well as generous surprises (like nibbles or digestifs). Best bit: wiggling your toes in the sand while sipping a cold one under the moonlight.
SquareINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0370-693688; www.squarelombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 100,000-200,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
An upscale restaurant with beautifully crafted seating, and a menu that features Western and Indonesian fusion fare. The cooking is a cut above the local norm in terms of ambition. Many newcomers to Indonesia have been introduced to the cuisine by the tourist-friendly tasting menu. Get a table away from the road noise.
SpiceINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0370-619 7373; www.spice-lombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi, Pasar Seni; mains 60,000-120,000Rp; hnoon-11pm)
Spice has airy quarters in the back of the euphemistically named Art Market. Tables on the sand are perfect for sunset drinks chosen from the long list. There are upscale pub snacks. Later, the stylish upstairs dining room catches the breezes. The cuisine features global, island and beach flavours.
AsmaraINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0370-693619; www.asmara-group.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 45,000-150,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W
c)
An ideal family choice, this place spans the culinary globe from tuna carpaccio to burgers to Lombok’s own Sate pusut (minced-meat or fish sate). It also has a sizable kids menu. Service and presentation are smooth.
WORTH A TRIP
TAMAN WISATA ALAM KERANDANGAN
This pleasant, little-visited nature reserve (off Jl Wisata Alam; 5000Rp) is ideal for escaping the tourist bustle of Senggigi and indulging in a few hours of strolling in the rainforest. The Princess Twin and Swallow Cave waterfalls lie on the marked trail (which can get a little indistinct in parts) and there’s the chance of seeing rare butterflies and black monkeys (alongside the common kind). To get here, head north of town to Mangsit, then take Jalan Wisata Alam inland through the Kerandangan Valley.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Not too long ago, Senggigi’s bar scene was pretty vanilla, with most cafes and restaurants doing double duty. However, like something out of a Pattaya fever dream, huge cinderblock buildings went up on the centre’s outskirts in the 2010s, featuring karaoke joints and massage parlours.
Few miss the chance to enjoy a sunset beverage at one of the many low-key places along the beach.
Jo-Je Beach BarBAR
(%0878-6388-1436; off Jl Raya Senggigi; h8am-11pm)
A classic beach bar with multicolour beanbags and happy-hour prices that coincide with the sunset. The cocktails are exceptionally strong, and there’s also OK Indonesian and Western food.
8Getting There & Away
BEMO
Regular bemos travel between Senggigi and Ampenan’s Kebon Roek terminal (5000Rp, 30 minutes), where you can connect to Mataram (10,000Rp, 20 minutes). Wave them down on the main drag. Bemos make the coast road run north towards Bangsal Harbour in the morning, less often later (20,000Rp, one hour). Note that you’ll have to get off in Pemenang, from where it’s a 1.2km walk to the harbour.
BOAT
Fast boats to Bali leave from the large pier right in the centre of the beach. Some companies sell tickets from an office out on the pier; others sell from the shore nearby.
Gili Getaway (%0823 3918 8281; http://giligetaway.com; Jl Pantai Senggigi; h8am-4pm) Useful services to Gili T and Gili Air (both 200,000Rp) as well as to Gili Gede (250,000Rp).
Perama (%0370-693008; www.peramatour.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; h7am-10pm) An economical shuttle-bus service that connects with the public ferry from Lembar to Padangbai in Bali (125,000Rp, 9am), from where there are onward shuttle-bus connections to Sanur, Kuta and Ubud (all 175,000Rp). These trips can take eight or more hours. It also offers a bus-and-boat connection to the Gilis for a reasonable 150,000Rp (two hours, 8am). It saves some hassle at Bangsal Harbour.
Scoot (%0828 9701 5565; www.scootcruise.com; Senggigi Pier) Daily fast boats to Nusa Lembongan (675,000Rp) and Sanur (750,000Rp) on Bali, leaving at 12.30pm.
Kencana Adventure (%0812 2206 6066; www.kencanaadventure.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; one-way deck/shared cabin 1,650,000/2,000,000Rp; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) For those going on adventures further into Nusa Tenggara, this operator has an office where you can get info about heading east to Labuan Bajo.
TAXI
A metered taxi to Lembar costs around 170,000Rp; to Praya around 200,000Rp; and to Bangsal Harbour, not served by public bemo, about 100,000Rp.
8Getting Around
Senggigi’s central area is easy to negotiate on foot.
Motorcycles can be rented starting from 60,000Rp per day. Vehicle rental is competitive and ranges from 200,000Rp to 350,000Rp per day. A car and driver costs from 500,000Rp per day.
Sire
A hidden upmarket enclave, the Sire (or Sira) peninsula points out towards the three Gilis. It’s blessed with gorgeous, broad white-sand beaches and good snorkelling offshore. Opulent resorts are now established here alongside a couple of fishing villages. Look out for the small Hindu temple, just beyond the Oberoi resort, which has shrines built into the coastal rocks and sublime ocean views.
Sire is a very short drive off the main road just north of Bangsal. The resorts can arrange any needed transport.
Northwest Coast
Market towns and glimpses of coast are the norm on the run around the northwest coast of Lombok. The green slopes of Gunung Rinjani increasingly dominate the inland view and traffic blissfully fades away.
Just northeast of Gondang village, which is on the main Bangsal–Bayan road, a 6km trail heads inland to Air Terjun Tiu Pupas (entry 30,000Rp), a 30m waterfall that’s only worth seeing in the wet season. Trails continue from here to other wet-season waterfalls, including Air Terjun Gangga, the most beautiful of all. A guide (about 80,000Rp) is useful to navigate the confusing trails in these parts.
Wektu Telu, Lombok’s animist-tinted form of Islam, was born in humble thatched mosques nestled in these Rinjani foothills. The best example is Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq, next to the village of Beleq. Its low-slung roof, dirt floors and bamboo walls reportedly date from 1634, making this mosque the oldest on Lombok. Inside is a huge old drum that served as the call to prayer before PA systems.
8Getting There & Away
Public transport north from Bangsal is infrequent. Several bemos (minibuses) a day go from Mataram’s Mandalika Terminal to Bayan, but you’ll have to get connections in Pemenang and/or Anyar, which can be difficult to navigate. Simplify things and get your own wheels.
WEKTU TELU
Wektu Telu is a complex mixture of Hindu, Islamic and animist beliefs, though it’s now officially classified as a sect of Islam. At its forefront is a physical concept of the Holy Trinity. The sun, moon and stars represent heaven, earth and water, while the head, body and limbs represent creativity, sensitivity and control.
As recently as 1965, the vast majority of Sasaks in northern Lombok were Wektu Telu, but under Suharto’s ‘New Order’ government, indigenous religious beliefs were discouraged, and enormous pressure was placed on Wektu Telu to become Wektu Lima (Muslims who pray five times a day). But in the Wektu Telu heartland around Bayan, locals have been able to maintain their unique beliefs by differentiating their cultural traditions (Wektu Telu) from religion (Islam). Most do not fast for the full month of Ramadan and only attend the mosque for special occasions, and there’s also widespread consumption of brem (alcoholic rice wine).
Senaru
The scenic villages that make up Senaru merge into one along a steep road with sweeping volcano and sea views. Most visitors here are Gunung Rinjani–bound, but beautiful walking trails and spectacular waterfalls beckon to those who aren’t.
Senaru derives its name from sinaru, which means light. As you ascend the hill towards the sky and clouds, you’ll see just why this makes sense.
Senaru was particularly hard hit by a string of high magnitude earthquakes that struck Lombok between July and August 2018. The recuperation process was expected to last several years and returning tourists will be a vital part of it, putting trekking guides back to work and funnelling much needed cash into the rebuilding of area homes.
1Sights
Gunung RinjaniVOLCANO
Lording it over the northern half of Lombok, Gunung Rinjani (3726m) is Indonesia’s second-tallest volcano. It’s an astonishing peak, and sacred to Hindus and Sasaks who make pilgrimages to the summit and lake to leave offerings for the gods and spirits. To the Balinese, Rinjani is one of three sacred mountains, along with Bali’s Agung and Java’s Bromo. Sasaks ascend throughout the year around the full moon.
The mountain has climatic significance. Its peak attracts a steady stream of swirling rain clouds, while its ash emissions bring fertility to the island’s rice fields and tobacco crops, feeding a tapestry of paddies, fields, and cashew and mango orchards.
Rinjani also attracts many trekkers who thrill to the otherworldly vistas. The volcano has become so popular that there were more than a thousand climbers on it during the first of the 2018 earthquakes, after which its slopes were evacuated. It remained closed for several months.
Inside Gunung Rinjani’s immense caldera, sitting 600m below the rim, is the stunning, 6km-wide, turquoise crescent lake Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea). The Balinese toss gold and jewellery into the lake in a ceremony called pekelan, before they slog their way towards the sacred summit.
The mountain’s newest cone, the minor peak of Gunung Baru (2351m), only emerged a couple of hundred years ago, its scarred, smouldering profile rising above the lake as an ominous reminder of the apocalyptic power of nature. This peak has been erupting fitfully for the last decade, periodically belching plumes of smoke and ash over the entire Rinjani caldera. Also in the crater are natural hot springs known as Aiq Kalak. Locals suffering from skin diseases trek here with a satchel of medicinal herbs to bathe and scrub in the bubbling mineral water.
The official website of Gunung Rinjani National Park (Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani; %0370-660 8874; www.rinjaninationalpark.com) has good maps, info and a useful section on reported scams by dodgy hiking operators.
Note that trekking independently up Gunung Rinjani is not allowed.
Air Terjun Sindang GilaWATERFALL
(10,000Rp)
This spectacular set of falls is a 20-minute walk from Senaru via a lovely forest and hillside trail. The hardy make for the creek, edge close and then get pounded by the hard, foaming cascade that explodes over black volcanic stone 40m above.
You do not need a guide to reach Air Terjun Sindang Gila; it is on a well-marked path.
Air Terjun Tiu KelepWATERFALL
A further 50 minutes or so uphill from the popular Air Terjun Sindang Gila is this waterfall with a swimming hole. The track is steep and guides are recommended (100,000Rp each; negotiable). Long-tailed macaques (locals call them kera) and the much rarer silvered leaf monkey sometimes appear.
A BIG SHAKE-UP ON RINJANI
An estimated 1090 trekkers, guides and support staff were on the slopes of Gunung Rinjani on 29 July 2018, when a shallow earthquake measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale struck the Sembalun Valley, triggering numerous landslides. Trapped on the volcano overnight, most tourists were rescued the following day in a large-scale evacuation operation that captured headlines around the world. Rinjani was subsequently closed to trekkers. Two additional earthquakes over the next three weeks, both measuring 6.9, further complicated plans for reopening Rinjani, as many area hotels and travel agencies were shaken to pieces.
Some local imams blamed the ballooning number of tourists climbing the sacred peak for causing the earthquakes, so there was some initial resistance to reopening it. However, the economic importance of the trekking industry in northern Lombok was hard to negate, and exploratory trips up Rinjani began in October to assess the viability of the original routes. The popular Senaru and Sembalun hiking trails had 14 landslide points apiece, with severe damage to many shelters, guard posts, park offices and water sources. Repair work was expected to begin in May 2019, with hopes of reopening these routes in late 2019 or early 2020. The new two-day, one-night Benang Stokel route to the crater rim from Aik Berik (about 30km east of Mataram on Rinjan’s south side) was the only trek open at the time of research, as it did not have any landslide damage. However, there was a quota of only 150 people per day, and trekking down to the crater lake remained off limits. Trekking agencies in Senaru and the Sembalun Valley were operating alternative overnight treks up Gunung Nangi (2330m) and Bukit Pergasingan (1700m), as well as day trips to local waterfalls and villages, until paths up Rinjani reopened.
The following tour operators were up and running at the time of research and are your best sources for the latest information on routes and conditions:
Rudy Trekker (%0812 3929 9896, 0822 3531 4474; www.rudytrekker.com)
Rinjani Information Centre (RIC; %0818 540 673; www.rinjaniinformationcentre.com; Sembalun Lawang; h6am-6pm)
John’s Adventures (%0817 578 8018; www.rinjanimaster.com)
Senaru Trekking (%0818 540 673; www.senarutrekking.com; Jl Pariwisata) 
S
2Activities
The main reason that people come to Senaru is for the trek up Gunung Rinjani. But if you have extra time, or aren’t heading up the volcano, there are other worthy hikes here.
Guided walks and community tourism activities can be arranged at most guesthouses – they include a rice-terrace and waterfalls walk (per person 200,000Rp), which takes in Air Terjun Sindang Gila, rice paddies and an old bamboo mosque, and the Senaru Panorama Walk (350,000Rp per person), which incorporates the former plus stunning views and insights into local traditions.
4Sleeping
Senaru’s accommodation options are strung along the 6.5km-long road that starts in Bayan and runs uphill via Batu Koq to the main Gunung Rinjani Park Office, which was severely damaged at the time of research. Most are simple mountain lodges; the cool altitude means you won’t need air-con.
Note that many hotels were flattened in the earthquakes of July and August 2018, and all were closed at the time of research.
Rinjani LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0819 0738 4944; www.rinjanilodge.com; r from 1,100,000Rp; aWs)
Rinjani Lodge suffered from extensive damage in the 2018 earthquakes, but had plans to reopen with five bungalows, four family rooms, four triples and two pools (one exclusively for hotel guests, and one shared with restaurant visitors). The property has jaw-dropping views across north Lombok and is just down from the Air Terjun Sindang Gila entrance.
Rinjani LighthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0818 0548 5480; www.rinjanilighthouse.mm.st; r 450,000-900,000Rp; W)
Set on a wide plateau just 200m from the Gunung Rinjani Park Office, this impressive guesthouse (with hot water) has thatched-roof bungalows in sizes ranging from double to family. There’s also a restored old house that sleeps six. The owners are founts of Rinjani wisdom.
8Getting There & Away
From Mandalika Terminal in Bertais (Mataram), catch a bus to Anyar (25,000Rp to 30,000Rp, 2½ hours). Bemos don’t run from Anyar to Senaru, so you’ll have to charter an ojek (per person from 30,000Rp, depending on your luggage). Due to the hassle, most visitors arrive in private transport arranged by a trekking agency.
CLIMBING GUNUNG RINJANI
Tetebatu makes a great alternative hiking base to Senaru and the Sembalun Valley for the climb up Gunung Rinjani, particularly for those short on time. You won’t be able to dip into the lakes on the express two-day, one-night climbs from this side of the volcano with Jaya Trekker (%0853 3792 0005; https://jayatrekker.com; Jl Pariwisata Tetebatu) and other local agencies, but you’re guaranteed to see less rubbish and a fraction of the tourists. Expect to pay about 1,750,000Rp for the trip, including a guide, porters, equipment, food and entrance to the park.
Note that this route was closed at the time of research, but was expected to reopen in late 2019 or early 2020.
Sembalun Valley
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High on the eastern side of Gunung Rinjani is what could be the mythical Shangri-La: the beautiful Sembalun Valley. This high plateau (about 1200m) is ringed by volcanoes and peaks. It’s a rich farming region where the golden foothills turn vivid green in the wet season. When the high clouds part, Rinjani takes front stage.
The valley has two main settlements, Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung, tranquil bread baskets primarily concerned with growing cabbage, potatoes, strawberries and, above all, garlic – though trekking tourism brings in a little income, too. Both villages were severely damaged in a series of high magnitude earthquakes in 2018.
4Sleeping
Sembalun Lawang village is rustic; most guesthouses will heat mandi (bath) water for a fee. The Rinjani Information Centre (RIC) can direct you to small homestays where rooms cost between 150,000Rp and 500,000Rp.
All hotels were closed at the time of research due to the 2018 earthquakes.
Lembah RinjaniLODGE$
(%0852 3954 3279, 0818 0365 2511; www.facebook.com/lembahrinjani; Sembalun Lawang; r 350,000-450,000Rp)
This property has 12 basic, clean, tiled rooms with private porches and breathtaking mountain and sunrise views. The cheaper rooms have cold-water showers.
8Getting There & Away
From Mataram’s Mandalika Terminal, take a bus to Aikmel (20,000Rp) and change there for a bemo to Sembalun Lawang (20,000Rp).
There’s no public transport between Sembalun Lawang and Senaru, so you’ll have to charter an ojek (motorcycle taxi), for a potentially uncomfortable ride costing about 200,000Rp.
Tetebatu
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Laced with spring-fed streams emanating from the slopes of Rinjani and blessed with rich volcanic soil, Tetebatu is a Sasak breadbasket. The surrounding countryside is quilted with tobacco and rice fields, fruit orchards and cow pastures that fade into remnant monkey forest gushing with waterfalls. Tetebatu’s sweet climate is ideal for long country walks (at 650m it’s high enough to mute that hot, sticky coastal mercury). Dark nights come saturated with sound courtesy of a frog orchestra accompanied by countless gurgling brooks. Even insomniacs snore here.
TTours
A typical walking tour of greater Tetebatu takes in the rice fields, spice shops, two waterfalls (entry by donation) and the Taman Wisata Tetebatu (Monkey Forest). Alternatively, you can take a cultural tour to visit nearby artisan towns, including the bamboo-basket village of Loyok, the potters village of Masbagik Timur and the weavers village of Pringgasela. Each has several shops, often with live demonstrations.
Sandi Tour GuideOUTDOORS
(%0823 4077 2008; sandiraga83@gmail.com)
Knowledgable English-speaking guide for walking tours to rice fields, waterfalls and the Monkey Forest. Can also arrange guided treks up Rinjani, trips to Gili Kondo and cultural tours to nearby artist villages.
4Sleeping & Eating
A mix of quality bungalows and guesthouses are nestled in the lush countryside. The places where you can stay also provide meals, though there are a few nice stand-alone restaurants, too.
oEdriyan BungalowBUNGALOW$
(%0853 3908 0120; http://edriyanbungalowtetebatu.blogspot.com; Jl Pariwisata Tetebatu; d from 400,000Rp, bungalow for 4 500,000Rp; Ws)
Three two-storey bamboo bungalows, each with intricate designs, offer astounding views over the glistening rice fields. It also has an inviting pool, plant-filled gardens and Sasak cooking classes (200,000Rp, two hours) in the restaurant where you can learn how to make dishes such as jackfruit curry.
Pondok Indah Bungalows TetebatuBUNGALOW$
(%0877 6172 2576; Jl Pariwisata Tetebatu; bungalow from 250,000Rp)
Three bi-level thatched bungalows are set amid beautiful rice fields. Although appearing romantically rustic, conditions are not: each has a bathroom, hardwood floors, outdoor seating areas with fabulous views and more. The grounds are a floral mix of colours.
Hakiki Bungalows & CafeBUNGALOW$
(%0818 0373 7407; www.hakiki-inn.com; Jl Kembang Kuning; r 175,000-450,000Rp; W)
A collection of seven bungalows in a blooming garden at the edge of the rice fields. You’ll find it perched over the family rice plot about 600m from the intersection. There’s even a honeymoon suite. Wi-fi is available in its cafe, which serves Indo classics, some nicely spicy.
Tetebatu Mountain ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%0853 3754 0777; www.mountainresorttetebatu.com; Jl Kembang Kuning; bungalows from 500,000Rp; Ws)
These Sasak bungalows with 23 rooms in total are some of the best digs in town. Four of them have separate bedrooms across two floors – perfect for travelling buddies – and a top-floor balcony with magical rice-field views.
Warung Monkey ForestINDONESIAN$
(%0853 3702 0691; Jl Pariwisata Tetebatu; mains 30,000-40,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
A fantastic little thatch-roofed restaurant with lots of veggie options, fresh fruit juices and helpful English-speaking owners. Find it on the way up to the Monkey Forest.
8Getting There & Away
All cross-island buses pass Pomotong (35,000Rp from Mandalika Terminal) on the main east−west highway. Get off here and you can hop an ojek (from 25,000Rp) to Tetebatu.
Most accommodation can arrange private transport from anywhere in Lombok. It’s often easier and, if you have a group, just as cheap.
Praya
%0370 / Pop 55,040
Sprawling Praya’s claim to fame is as the location for Lombok’s airport. It’s also the main town in the south, with tree-lined streets and the odd crumbling Dutch colonial relic.
8Getting There & Away
Surrounded by rice fields and 5km south of Praya proper is the modern Lombok International Airport (LOP; www.lombok-airport.co.id; Jl Bypass Bil Praya). The airport is not huge, but has a full range of services such as ATMs, convenience stores and coffee shops.
Thanks to multi-lane roads, the airport is less than a 45 minutes’ drive from both Mataram and Kuta and is well linked to the rest of the island.
Damri operates regular tourist buses, timed to meet flights; buy tickets in the arrivals area. Destinations include Mataram’s Mandalika Terminal (30,000Rp), Senggigi (40,000Rp) and east to Selong (35,000Rp).
Taxi counters outside arrivals offer fixed-price rides to destinations that include Kuta (150,000Rp, 30 minutes), Mataram (180,000Rp, 40 minutes), Senggigi (300,000Rp, 75 minutes) and Bangsal (350,000Rp, 1¾ hours), where you can access the Gili Islands.
Kuta
%0370 / Pop 5000
What could be a better gateway to the wonderful beaches of south Lombok? Imagine a crescent bay, turquoise in the shallows and deep blue further out. It licks a huge, white-sand beach, as wide as a football pitch and framed by headlands. Now imagine a coastline of nearly a dozen such bays, all backed by a rugged range of coastal hills spotted with lush patches of banana trees and tobacco fields, and you’ll have a notion of Kuta’s immediate appeal.
Kuta’s original attraction was the limitless world-class breaks, and now even as developers lick their chops, the sets keep rolling in. Meanwhile, the town itself is an appealing mix of guesthouses, cafes, restaurants and low-key places for a beer.
1Sights
oPantai MawanBEACH
(car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp)
How’s this for a vision of sandy paradise? Some 8km west of Kuta and 600m off the main road, this half-moon cove is framed by soaring headlands with azure water and a swath of sand that’s empty save for a fishing village of a dozen thatched homes. The beach is terrific for swimming. It has paved parking, some modest cafes and large trees for shade. An upscale vendor rents loungers for a pricey 150,000Rp for all day.
Tanjung AanBEACH
(car/motorbike 20,000/10,000Rp)
Some 5km east of Kuta, Tanjung Aan (aka A’an, Ann) is a spectacular sight: a giant horseshoe bay with two sweeping arcs of fine sand with the ends punctuated by waves crashing on the rocks. Swimming is good here, and there are trees and shelters for shade, plus safe parking (for a small charge). Warung Turtle, at the east end of the beach, has cheery service and cheap beer, while the western headland Bukit Merese is worth climbing for spectacular sunsets.
Pantai AregulingBEACH
(car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp)
Look for a steep track off the main coast road 6km west of Kuta. A rough 2km ride brings you to this broad bay with a wide beach of beige sand. It’s a little scruffy, but you can’t beat the sense of space. Construction on the headland foreshadows changes to come.
Pantai SegerBEACH
(car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp)
Pantai Seger, a lovely beach about 2km east of Kuta around the first headland, has unbelievably turquoise water, decent swimming (though no shade) and a break 200m offshore. There are two more beaches nearby, a decent cafe and vendors renting snorkelling gear.
SURFING THE SOUTH COAST
Stellar lefts and rights break on the reefs off Kuta Bay (Telek Kuta) and east of Tanjung Aan. Around 7km east of Kuta is the fishing village of Gerupuk, where there’s a series of reef breaks, both close to the shore and further out, but they require a boat, at a negotiable 200,000Rp per two-hour session. Wise surfers buzz past Gerupuk and take the road to Ekas, where crowds are thin and two breaks, Inside Ekas and Outside Ekas, keep wave-hunters happy. These also require a boat for about 400,000Rp. West of Kuta, you’ll find Mawan, a stunning swimming beach; Mawi, a popular surf paradise with world-class swells and a strong rip tide; and lastly, the long white sands of Selong Blanak (parking 10,000Rp), a great spot for beginners.
2Activities
There’s a whole row of activity sales agents along Jl Pariwisata and the main road leading to the waterfront. They can set you up on anything from surf tours to snorkelling in obscure locations. Don’t be afraid to haggle.
oMana Retreat LombokYOGA
(%0853 38628 659; http://manalombok.com; Jl Baturiti; class 100,000Rp; h8am-6.30pm)
An open thatched pavilion in a serene jungly setting with vinyasa, yin/yang, surfer yoga and more. Yogis can also sleep onsite in rooms and bungalows (dm/d from 300,000/900,000Rp).
oScuba FroggyDIVING
(%0878 6454 1402; www.scubafroggy.com; Jl Raya Kuta; single dive 600,000Rp, open-water course 5,500,000Rp; h9am-7pm)
Runs local trips to two-dozen dive sites, most no deeper than 18m. From June to November, staff also run trips to the spectacular and challenging ocean pinnacles in Belongas Bay, famous for schooling hammerheads and mobula rays. Snorkelling trips to the Southwest Gilis are 750,000Rp. It also rents out kayaks (80,000Rp per hour).
Whatsup? LombokWATER SPORTS
(%0878 6597 8701; http://whatsuplombok.com; Jl Pariwisata; SUP/kayak/kitesurfing rentals per hr 200,000/150,000/400,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
South Kuta’s bays are known for being excellent places for kitesurfing, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and kayaking. At this shop you can rent gear, take lessons and join tours.
Kimen SurfSURFING
(%0878 6590 0017; www.kuta-lombok.net; Jl Mawan; board rental per day 60,000Rp, lessons per person from 400,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
This well-regarded local surf shop provides swell forecasts, tips, kitesurfing, board rental, repairs and lessons. It also runs guided excursions to breaks such as Gerupuk (700,000Rp) and has an on-site cafe with strong espresso coffees.
BAU NYALE FESTIVAL
On the 19th day of the 10th month in the Sasak calendar (generally February or March), hundreds of Sasaks gather on Pantai Seger for a big festival involving stick fighting, live bands and the odd, worm-like nyale.
When night falls, fires are built and teens sit around competing in a Sasak poetry slam, where they spit rhyming couplets called pantun back and forth. At dawn the next day, the first of millions of nyale (which appear here annually) are caught, then teenage girls and boys take to the sea separately in decorated boats, and chase one another with lots of noise and laughter. The nyale are eaten raw or grilled, and are considered to be an aphrodisiac. A good catch is a sign that a bumper crop of rice is coming.
4Sleeping
Kuta offers a fantastic spread of options for all budgets. Prices increase markedly in the high season through July and August. Beware of ageing, rundown hotels along Jl Pariwisata.
oKuta Cabana LodgeLODGE$
(www.facebook.com/kutacabanalodge; off Jl Sengkol; r incl breakfast from 400,000Rp; aW)
This eclectic thatch-roofed lodge spills down a hill just east of town, offering sweeping views over the bay from each artfully designed room. Teachers from Ashtari run yoga classes in the top-floor shala, while the French-flavoured restaurant, The Other Place, draws big crowds for the tangerine sunsets (mains 50,000Rp to 80,000Rp).
oLara HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0877 6310 0315; http://larahomestay.com; Jl Raya Kuta Pujut Lombok Tengah; r incl breakfast from 300,000Rp; aW)
This excellent family-run guesthouse is on a quiet, tree-shaded back lane close to the heart of Kuta. Service could not be cheerier. Rooms in the multistorey main building are sparkling and great value. The breakfasts are tasty.
Bombora BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0370-650 2571; bomborabungalows@yahoo.com; Jl Raya Kuta; standard/superior r 425,000/575,000Rp; aWs)
One of the best places for a low-cost stay in Kuta, these eight bungalows (some fan-cooled, all with bathrooms) are built around a lovely pool area. Coconut palms shade loungers, pink-flamingo inflatables stand ready and the entire place feels like an escape from the hubbub of town. The staff understand the needs of surfers, and pretty much everyone.
Mimpi ManisB&B$
(%081 836 9950; www.mimpimanis.com; Jl Raya Kuta; dm/d 100,000/150,000-250,000Rp; aW)
Run by Made and Gemma, a friendly Balinese/British couple, ‘Sweet Dreams’ is an inviting B&B offering spotless dorm and private rooms, some with air-con and showers. Located 1km inland, it’s more peaceful than central Kuta options, with plenty of good books to borrow. It also offers a free drop-off service to the beach and town, plus bike and motorbike rental.
Snorkelling trips to the Southwest Gilis are from 350,000Rp per person, and six-hour fishing trips are 600,000Rp (minimum two people). The owners will prepare a barbecue of your catch at no extra charge.
Blue Monkey VillasBUNGALOW$$
(%0853 3775 6416; bluemonkeyvilllas@gmail.com; Pantai Areguling; r 500,000-1,000,000Rp; Ws)
Set on a knoll above Pantai Areguling, 8km west of Kuta, this collection of traditional-style bungalows has sweeping views of the bay. The beach is a 500m walk down the hill. A simple cafe serves meals, where the view will compete with your food for your attention.
Puri Rinjani BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0370-615 4849; Jl Pariwisata; r from 700,000Rp; aWs)
A solid beachfront option that gets everything right: it’s sparklingly clean, well-managed and has a lovely pool area. with statues decorating the grounds. The 19 rooms are bright and airy and have nice, firm beds.
5Eating
Kuta’s dining scene is getting more creative each day. There’s a wide variety of choices – all casual – at great prices.
oNugget’s CornerINDONESIAN$
(%0878 9131 7431; Jl Raya Kuta; mains 35,000-100,000Rp; h7am-10.30pm)
For a restaurant that seems cool and casual, this one has real drive. The vegan, veggie and meaty mains are all prepared with attitude and authority. Flavours are bold and presentation is lovely. It’s BYOB; the juices, smoothies and iced teas are superb. The dining room is open-air and bright.
oMilk EspressoCAFE$$
(www.facebook.com/milkespresso; Jl Raya Kuta; mains 55,000-130,000Rp; h7am-midnight; W)
Hopping all day long, this trendy bi-level cafe breathlessly segues from bountiful breakfasts to midday nibbles, healthy dinners and classy evening cocktails. Oh, and the strong coffee is sure to rev your engine any time of day!
oEl BazarMEDITERRANEAN$$
(%0819 9911 3026; www.elbazarlombok.com; Jl Raya Kuta; mains 75,000-185,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
Kuta’s trendiest and most popular restaurant lives up to its stellar reputation with authentic tastes from around the Mediterranean. Kick things off with a mezze platter and then move on to excellent kebabs, falafels or Moroccan tagines. You’ll likely linger long after the meal as the vibe here is electric.
Sea SaltSEAFOOD$$
(%0813 8198 7104; Jl Pariwisata; mains 60,000-90,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
That a Scottish-owned, vaguely Greek seafood restaurant is one of Kuta’s best speaks volumes for where the dining scene is at. At this small, arched dining room, open to the beach and hung with bird cages and shrimp traps, let super-enthusiastic, barefoot staff fuss over you as you tuck into the day’s catch.
Warung BuleSEAFOOD$$
(%0370-615 8625; Jl Pariwisata; mains 60,000-85,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)
Tucked away from the main thoroughfares, on a quiet stretch of Kuta Beach, this friendly, spotlessly tiled warung is one of the best in town. The grilled barracuda with Sasak spices is fantastic, while the trio of lobster, prawns and mahi-mahi (385,000Rp, expensive by local standards) is a full seafood fix.
AshtariINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0812 3608 0862; www.ashtarilombok.com; Jl Mawan; mains 40,000-100,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
Perched on a mountaintop 2km west of town on the road to Mawan, this breezy, Mediterranean-themed lounge-restaurant has spectacular vistas of pristine bays and rocky peninsulas that take turns spilling further out to sea. It’s a slick yoga-luxe sort of place with several options for vegans.
Teachers offer a variety of yoga classes (100,000Rp) in a peaceful spot below the restaurant from 7am to 6.30pm
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are a couple of raucous beachfront bars where there are often well-advertised parties. Impromptu beer bashes set up on the sand right near the centre of town.
oThe BusBAR
(www.facebook.com/thebuslombok; Jl Raya Kuta; h6pm-midnight)
Great tunes, colourful graffiti art and the best pizzas in Lombok make this a must-visit come nightfall. Sit on pallet furniture in a rocky patch of central Kuta, and let the wizards inside the namesake 1974 VW bus craft you some of the cheapest, tastiest cocktails in town. Live DJs spin Wednesdays and Saturdays.
8Information
MONEY
Kuta has a half-dozen ATMs and is a good place to stock up on rupiahs before travelling further afield in south Lombok.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
A If you decide to rent a bicycle or motorbike, take care with whom you deal – arrangements are informal and rental contracts are hardly ever exchanged. There are reports of some visitors having motorbikes stolen (often at late-night beach parties), and then having to pay substantial sums of money as compensation to the owner. Renting a motorbike from your guesthouse is the safest option.
A As you drive up the coastal road west and east of Kuta, keep an eye out – especially after dark. There have been rare reports of muggings in the area.
A The throngs of vendors, many of them children selling friendship bands, are relentless.
HEALTH
Blue Island Medical Clinic (%0819 9970 5700; http://blueislandclinic.com; Jl Raya Kuta; h24hr) Your best bet for minor issues in southern Lombok. For anything major, head to Mataram.
8Getting There & Away
Outside the daily 11am shuttle bus to Kuta from Mataram’s Mandalika Terminal (1½ hours, 60,000Rp;), there is no real public transport linking the two cities. You could try to bemo (minibus) hop via Praya and Sengkol, but these bemos have become increasingly obsolete.
Simpler are the daily ride-share cars serving Mataram, plus Senggigi and Lembar (all 100,000Rp). Shared cars to the airport cost 60,000Rp, though a taxi may be simpler if you fly out at an odd hour (150,000Rp). Other ride-share destinations include Bangsal for Gili Islands public boats (110,000Rp), Seminyak (Bali) via the public ferry (180,000Rp) and Senaru (250,000Rp). All are advertised widely on sandwich boards across Kuta.
8Getting Around
Guesthouses rent out motorbikes for about 70,000Rp per day. Ojeks (motorbike taxis) are less frequent here than elsewhere in Lombok (most visitors rent their own wheels) but can often be hailed from the junction in the centre of town. Good paved roads run east to the various beaches. It’s a terrific motorbike ride. Your own wheels are essential for exploring the beaches in the west. Cyclists will need to be ready for hills and narrow, curving roads.
East of Kuta
A good paved road runs along the coast to the east and Ekas, passing a seemingly endless series of beautiful bays punctuated by head- lands. It’s a terrific motorbike ride.
Gerupuk
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Just 1.6km past Tanjung Aan beach, Gerupuk is a fascinating little ramshackle coastal village where the thousand or so local souls earn their keep from fishing, seaweed harvesting and lobster exports. Oh, and guiding and ferrying surfers to the five exceptional surf breaks in its huge bay.
As you’ll see from the nascent grand boulevards and vast earthworks between Tanjung Aan and Gerupuk, construction on the gigantic Mandalika resort complex is under way in fits and starts. Expect the area to change greatly in the next few years. Judging by the way the existing mangroves have been destroyed, concerns about environmental damage are well placed.
2Activities
To surf in the bay you’ll need to hire a boat to ferry you from the fishing harbour, skirting the netted lobster farms, to the break (200,000Rp). The boatman will help you find the right wave and wait patiently. There are four waves inside and a left break outside on the point. All can get head high or bigger when the swell hits.
4Sleeping & Eating
Surf Camp LombokRESORT$$
(%0852 3744 5949; www.surfcampindonesia.com; 1 week from €690)
Lodging at this fun surf resort at the eastern end of Gerupuk village is in a bamboo Borneo-style longhouse, albeit with lots of high-tech diversions. The beach setting feels lush and remote. All meals are included plus surf lessons, yoga and more. Rooms sleep five, except for three doubles. Recycling and other ecofriendly practices are embraced.
Inlight Lombok ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0853 3803 8280; www.inlightlombok.com; r from 1,400,000Rp; aWs)
Curvaceously designed by the Russian architect-owner, this stunning hotel on a secluded beach just south of Gerupuk was built for detoxing. Wi-fi is only available in common areas, there is no alcohol and the health-food restaurant has an energising pescetarian menu. The four rooms, while not quite as show-stopping as the grounds, are spacious and comfortable with astonishing views.
FinCAFE$
(%0823 3956 4781; www.facebook.com/fingerupuk; mains 45,000-60,000Rp; h7.30am-4.30pm) S
This airy turquoise-and-white cafe with distressed wood furnishings and birdcages for light fixtures is the kind of place you might expect to find in Gili T, not Gerupuk. But it’s a welcome addition, with espresso coffees, yoghurt bowls, wheatgrass shots and veggie sandwiches.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BUMBANGKU
Gerupuk’s beach is narrow; much nicer is the powdery sand across the bay at Bumbangku. Follow a narrow track off the main road for 2.5km and you’ll find this idyllic and often deserted beach. The structures you see out in the bay are pearl farms. Bumbangku Beach Cottages (%0821 4715 3876; www.bumbangkulombok.com; Jl Raya Awang, Bumbangku; r 250,000-750,000Rp; a) has 25 rooms here ranging from simple bamboo huts on stilts with outdoor bathrooms and cold water to much nicer concrete rooms with hot water and air-con.
Ekas
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Ekas is an uncrowded find, where the breaks and soaring cliffs recall Bali’s Ulu Watu – an almost deserted Ulu Watu.
Ekas itself is a sleepy little village, but head south into the peninsula and you’ll soon make the sorts of jaw-dropping discoveries that will have you Instagramming like mad.
4Sleeping
There are posh boutique resorts hidden on the beautiful coves south of Ekas. Also look out for new and simple guesthouses along the rural roads.
Ekas BreaksGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0822 3791 6767; www.ekasbreaks.com; r incl breakfast 600,000-900,000Rp; aWs)
Some 2km from Ekas’ surf breaks and beaches amid rolling land is this sun-kissed compound. Some rooms are in a traditional lumbung style with thatched walls; others are in a modern style, with whitewashed walls and open bathrooms (we prefer those). The cafe makes a good mix of Western and Indo meals.
West of Kuta
West of Kuta is a series of awesome beaches and ideal surf breaks. Developers are nosing around here, and land has changed hands, but for now it remains almost pristine and the region has a raw beauty. In anticipation of future developments, the road has been much improved. It meanders inland, skirting tobacco, sweet potato and rice fields in between turn-offs to the sand and glimpses of the gorgeous coast.
Selong Blanak
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Just when you think you’ve seen the most beautiful sands Kuta has to offer, you reach this wide, sugar-white beach with water streaked a thousand shades of blue, ideal for swimming. You can rent surfboards (per day 50,000Rp) and arrange for a boat out to area breaks (from 100,000Rp). The car park is just 400m off the main drag on a good road, the turn is 18km west of Kuta. The beach is popular with locals, loungers rent for 50,000Rp per day and there are lots of bamboo warungs.
Selong Blanak gets stiff competition in the fabulous sweepstakes from nearby Pantai Mawi, a quiet cove for in-the-know surfers with legendary barrels. Watch out for the strong rip tide. There’s parking and vendors; surfboard rental is 50,000Rp for two hours. The turn for the beach is 16km west of Kuta; it’s then a 3km drive down a rough road to the beach.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lodgings here skew upmarket, though you’ll find the odd homestay or budget bungalow in the mix. Dining options from budget to top end can be found here, mostly near the beach in Selong Blanak.
Tiki LodgeRESORT$$
(%0822 4744 7274; www.tikilombok.com; Jl Selong Belanak; r from 650,000Rp; Ws)
Comfortable thatch-roofed villas with bamboo beds and luxurious outdoor bathrooms surround an emerald-green pool in these jungly grounds. Breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the rate.
Sempiak VillasRESORT$$
(%0821 4430 3337; www.sempiakvillas.com; villas from 960,000Rp; aWs)
Tucked away on the cliffs, this fabulous boutique resort is one of the Kuta area’s most upscale properties. Seven villas are built into the hillside above the beach and feature antique wood; some have covered decks with stupendous views. Another five cheaper villas lie down below. It has a beach club for daytime frolics and dinners on the sand.
Laut Biru Bar & RestaurantSEAFOOD$$
(%0821 4430 3339; mains 45,000-90,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
This seaside cafe at Sempiak Villas keeps it simple with Indo classics for lunch and dinner, though the setting is anything but. You’ll dine in a fancy white-washed building with high ceilings, hanging shell art and remixed world music floating out toward the sandy patio.
Belongas
Save a big ‘Wow!’ for this curving double bay with a sinuous strand of white ribbon that provides a brilliant line between the blue water and green hills. Nearby Bali has nothing even remotely like this beach, and it’s still yours for the exploring as development has barely touched this area.
There are two famed dive sites here: Magnet and Cathedrals. Spotting conditions peak in mid-September when you may see schooling mobula rays in addition to hammerheads, which school around the pinnacle (a towering rock that breaks the surface of the ocean and is the heart of the dive sites) from June to November. It’s not an easy dive, so you must be experienced and prepared for strong currents.
Belongas Bay is a focus area for Senggigi-based Dive Zone (%0819 0785 2073; www.divezone-lombok.com; 2 local boat dives 1,650,000Rp), which runs trips out of the Belongas Bay Lodge (%0370-645974; www.thelodge-lombok.com; bungalows 850,000-950,000Rp, meals 75,000Rp). This lodge offers spacious wooden bungalows with tiled roofs in a lovely coconut grove. It’s fairly simple, which goes with the serene setting right on the water. Access is via a thin, severely rutted and challenging dirt road that’s ill suited to novice motorbikers. Advanced bookings are essential.
East Lombok
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All most travellers see of Lombok’s east coast is Labuhan Lombok, the port for ferries to Sumbawa. But the road around the northeast coast is pretty good, with isolated black-sand beaches, particularly at Obel Obel – the route can be traversed if you’re hoping to complete a circumnavigation. From Labuhan Pandan, or from further north at Sugian, you can charter a boat to Gili Sulat or Gili Pentangan. Both islands have lovely white beaches and good coral for snorkelling, but no facilities.
South of Labuhan Lombok, Selong, the capital of the east Lombok administrative district, has some dusty Dutch colonial buildings, while the fishing port of Tanjung Luar has stilted Bugis-style houses. In Keruak you’ll see wooden boats being built, and in the traditional Sasak village of Sukaraja it’s possible to buy woodcarvings. Just west of Keruak a road leads south via Jerowaru to Ekas and the spectacular southeastern peninsula.
Labuhan Lombok
%0376 / Pop 38,519
Labuhan Lombok (also known as Labuhan Kayangan or Tanjung Kayangan) is the port for ferries and boats to Sumbawa. The town centre of Labuhan Lombok, 3km west of the ferry terminal, is a scruffy place, but it does have great views of Gunung Rinjani. Do check out the giant mahogany trees about 4km north of the harbour and consider a trip out to Gili Kondo, an idyllic islet just offshore that’s great for camping and snorkelling.
8Getting There & Away
BUS & BEMO
Regular buses and bemos buzz between Mandalika Terminal in Mataram and Labuhan Lombok; the journey takes 2½ hours (35,000Rp). Some buses will only drop you off at the port entrance road, from where you can catch another bemo to the ferry terminal (5000Rp, 10 minutes). Don’t walk – it’s too far.
BOAT
Ferries run almost hourly, 24 hours a day, between Labuhan Lombok and Poto Tano on Sumbawa (passengers 17,000Rp, cars 431,000Rp, motorcycles 49,500Rp, 1½ hours). Through buses to points east from Bali and Lombok include the ferry fare.
Small fishing boats can take you to Gili Kondo for the day for about 750,000Rp, though many organise tours from Tetebatu or Senaru.
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