Gili Islands
Floating in a turquoise sea and fringed by white sand and coconut palms, the Gilis are a vision of paradise. And they’re booming like nowhere else in Indonesia – speedboats zip visitors directly from Bali and hip new hotels are rising like autumnal mushrooms.
The lure of big tourist dollars tugs against the traditionally laid-back culture of the islands, the alternative spirit imported by Western partygoers and a buoyant green sensibility. While the outcome is uncertain, for now the Gilis retain their languorous charm (partly due to local efforts to exclude dogs and motorbikes from the islands).
Each island has its own unique appeal. Gili Trawangan (aka Gili T) is the most cosmopolitan, with a raucous party scene and plenty of upscale dining and accommodation. Gili Air has an appealing mix of buzz and bliss, while little Gili Meno has the strongest local character.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
A Although it’s rare, some foreign women have experienced sexual harassment and even assault while on the Gilis – it’s best not to walk home alone to the quieter parts of the islands.
A As tranquil as the seas appear, currents are strong in the channels between the islands. Do not try to swim between the Gili Islands as it can be deadly.
A Bike riders (almost entirely tourists) regularly plough into and injure people on Gili T’s main drag. Cidomo (horse-drawn carts) hauling construction goods are almost as bad, and pack considerably more punch.
Theft
Immediately report thefts to the island kepala desa (village head), who will deal with the issue; staff at the dive schools will direct you to him.
While police used to only visit the Gilis sporadically, they set up shop on all three islands following the 2018 earthquakes due to the subsequent looting. Many predict that they are now here to stay.
Drugs & Alcohol
The drug trade remains endemic in Trawangan where you’ll get offers of everything from meth to ecstasy and mushrooms. The latter is also openly advertised in cafes on Meno and Air. Remember, Indonesia has a strong anti-drugs policy; those found in possession of or taking drugs risk jail or worse.
Tourists have been poisoned by adulterated arak (colourless, distilled palm wine) on the Gilis, as happens in Bali and Lombok. Skip it, and beware cut-price cocktails.
GILI STRONG: REBUILDING PARADISE
When a 6.4 magnitude earthquake rattled mainland Lombok on 29 July 2018, most on the Gili Islands simply shrugged their shoulders. Little did they know that it was a ‘foreshock’ for a larger 6.9 earthquake the following Sunday, August 5, that would topple resorts and restaurants across this mini-archipelago.
A tsunami warning prompted the majority of those staying on Trawangan to spend the night on the Gilis’ lone hill. Many on the flatter islands of Air and Meno huddled together on interior fields. Thankfully, the tsunami waves never materialised, but the prolonged and chaotic rescue operation the following day captured global headlines.
There were widespread reports of looting on the Gili Islands in the immediate aftermath, forcing the police to set up posts on each island. Many businesses were shaken up beyond repair, particularly on the southeastern corner of Meno, in the main village of Trawangan, and along Trawangan’s western coastline. In general, businesses built of bamboo or wood fared far better than those made of concrete.
Residents rallied around the motto ‘Gili Strong’ in the weeks after the quake and used it as a marketing pitch to lure tourists back. By September, a few fast boats had resumed services from Bali, carrying intrepid visitors to these battered isles. Rebuilding was hampered slightly by a lack of workers (many were busy caring for families back on mainland Lombok). Yet the islands have shown incredible resilience and, at the time of writing, were well on their way to recovery.
8Getting There & Away
Most hotels and many guesthouses will help you sort out your transport options to and from the Gilis as part of your reservation. If you use an online booking website, contact the hotel directly afterwards. Some high-end resorts have their own boats for transporting guests.
FROM BALI
Fast boats advertise swift connections between Bali and Gili Trawangan (45 minutes to 2½ hours, depending on destination). They leave from several departure points in Bali, including Benoa Harbour, Sanur, Padangbai and Amed. Some go via Nusa Lembongan. Many dock at Teluk Nare/Teluk Kade on Lombok north of Senggigi before continuing on to Air and Trawangan (you’ll have to transfer for Meno in most cases).
The website Gili Bookings (www.gilibookings.com) presents a range of boat operators and prices in response to your booking request. It’s useful for getting an idea of the services offered, but it is not comprehensive and you may get a better price by buying direct from the operator.
Other considerations:
A Fares are not fixed, especially in quiet times – you should be able to get discounts on published fares. That said, not all fast boats are created equal, and paying a higher fare for a more sturdy boat may just save you from a regurgitated breakfast.
A If you don’t need transport to/from the boat, ask for a discount.
A The advertised times are illusionary. Boats are cancelled, unplanned stops are made or boats simply run very late. Give yourself a wide margin of error if planning onward connections (flights from Lombok or Bali, for instance).
A Book ahead in July and August.
A The sea between Bali and Lombok can get very rough (particularly during rainy season) and fast boats can be cancelled for days on end.
A The fast boats are unregulated, and operating and safety standards vary widely. There have been some major accidents, with boats sinking and passengers killed.
Operators include the following:
Blue Water Express (
%0361-895 1111, 0813 3841 8988; www.bluewater-express.com; 1-way from 750,000Rp) Professionally run company with boats from Serangan and Padangbai (Bali), to Teluk Kade, Gili T and Gili Air.
Gili Getaway (%0813 3707 4147, 0821 4489 9502; www.giligetaway.com; 1-way Bali to Gilis adult/child 710,000/560,000Rp) Very professional; links Serangan on Bali with Gili T and Gili Air as well as Senggigi and Gili Gede.
Gili Gili Fast Boat (%0818 0858 8777; www.giligilifastboat.com; 1-way from 690,000Rp) Links Padangbai (Bali) with Bangsal Harbour (Lombok), Gili T and Gili Air.
Perama (%0361-750808; www.peramatour.com; per person 1-way 400,000Rp) Links Padangbai, the Gilis and Senggigi by a not-so-fast boat.
Scoot (%0361-271030; www.scootcruise.com; 1-way 750,000Rp) Boats link Sanur, Nusa Lembongan, Senggigi and the Gilis.
FROM LOMBOK
Coming from Lombok, you can travel by fast boat from Teluk Nare/Teluk Kade north of Senggigi. Many of these services are operated by hotels and dive outfits based in the Gilis (making pre-arranged diving/accommodation and transfer options appealing), but private charters with local owners are also possible. Most people still use the public boats that leave from Bangsal Harbour.
Boat tickets at Bangsal Harbour are sold at the port’s large ticket office, which is where you can also charter a boat. Buy a ticket elsewhere and you’re getting played.
Public boats to the Gilis run most frequently before noon; after that you shouldn’t wait much more than an hour for boats to Gili T or Gili Air, while special boats depart for Gili Meno at 2pm and 5pm. With the exception of these afternoon transfers to Gili Meno, all boats leave, in both directions, only when full – about 45 people. If the seas are high and the boat (over)loaded, riding these battered outriggers can be a hair-raising experience. When no public boat is running to your Gili, you may have to charter a boat (350,000Rp to 500,000Rp, for up to 10 people), or decide this is the safer option in any case.
One-way public fares are 14,000Rp to Gili Air, 15,000Rp to Gili Meno (25,000Rp for the special afternoon boats) and 20,000Rp to Gili Trawangan. Boats often pull up on the beaches; be prepared to wade ashore.
Public fast boats now run almost hourly in daytime on a route linking Gili T, Gili Meno, Gili Air and Bangsal; they cost 85,000Rp.
Although Bangsal Harbour had a bad reputation for years, hassles here are much reduced. One still-common rort is for shuttle buses to drop passengers just short of the harbour, where cidomo drivers, claiming there’s some distance to go, ask 60,000Rp to complete the journey. Ignore them and walk the last 300m. Other touts may claim the public boats aren’t running, or that you need to buy mosquito repellent and sunblock before getting to the Gilis. Ignore them too, but note that anyone who helps you with bags deserves a tip (10,000Rp per bag is appropriate). There are ATMs.
Coming by public transport via Mataram and Senggigi, catch a bus or bemo to Pemenang, from where it’s a 1.2km walk to Bangsal Harbour – or 5000Rp by ojek (motorcycle taxi). A metered taxi to the port will take you to the harbour. From Senggigi, Perama offers a bus and boat connection to the Gilis for a reasonable 150,000Rp (two hours).
Arriving in Bangsal, you’ll be offered rides in shared vehicles at the port. To Senggigi, 100,000Rp is a fair price. Otherwise, walk 500m down the access road past the huge tsunami shelter to the Blue Bird Lombok Taksi stand (%0370-645000; www.bluebirdgroup.com), always the best taxi choice, for metered rides to Senggigi (around 100,000Rp), the airport (220,000Rp) and Kuta (250,000Rp).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LOMBOK FOREST TOUR
The food-themed Lombok Forest Tour (%0823 4277 5358; www.facebook.com/myforestadventure; Bangsal harbour; half-day tour 400,000Rp) departs from Bangsal Harbour and is a great pre- or post-Gili Islands trip into Lombok’s little-visited northwestern interior. Depending on the time of year, Ikbal and his team may have you climbing a palm tree to tap it for nectar, sampling the fruit of the cacao and coffee plants or foraging for all sorts of delectable surprises.
8Getting Around
There’s no motorised transport on the Gilis – one of their greatest charms.
BOAT
Public fast boats run almost hourly in daytime on a route linking Gili T, Gili Meno, Gili Air and Bangsal; they cost 85,000Rp. This makes it easy to hop from one Gili to another.
There’s also a slow island-hopping boat service that loops between all three islands (25,000Rp to 35,000Rp). There is typically a morning boat and an afternoon one, but it’s best to check the latest timetable at the islands’ docks. You can always charter boats between the islands (300,000Rp to 400,000Rp).
CIDOMO
We cannot recommend using cidomo (horse-drawn carts) due to the significant questions about the treatment of the horses.
WALKING & CYCLING
The Gilis are flat and easy enough to get around on by foot. Bicycles, available for hire on all three islands (40,000Rp to 60,000Rp per day), can be a fun way to get around, but sandy stretches of path mean that you will spend time pushing your bike in the hot sun.
Gili Trawangan
%0370 / Pop 1500
Gili Trawangan is a tropical playground of global renown, ranking alongside Bali and Borobudur as one of Indonesia’s top destinations. Trawangan’s heaving main drag, busy with bikes, cidomos and mobs of scantily clad visitors, can surprise those expecting a languid island retreat. Instead, a bustling string of lounge bars, hip guesthouses, ambitious restaurants, convenience stores and dive schools clamours for attention.
And yet behind this glitzy facade, a bohemian character endures, with rickety warungs (cheap eating houses) and reggae joints surviving between the cocktail tables, and quiet retreats dotting the much-less-busy north coast. Even as massive 200-plus-room hotels begin to colonise the gentrifying west coast, you can head just inland to a village laced with sandy lanes roamed by free-range roosters, fussing ibu (mothers) and wild-haired kids playing hopscotch. Here the call of the muezzin, not happy hour, defines the time of day.
rBeaches
Gili T is ringed by the sort of powdery white sand people expect to find on Bali, but don’t. It can be crowded along the bar-lined main part of the strip, but walk just a bit north or south and west and you’ll find some of Gili T’s nicest swimming and snorkelling beaches. You can discover more solitude in parts of the west and north coasts, where it will be you and your towel on the sand – although water and Bintang vendors are never far away.
Note that at low tide large portions of the west and north coasts have rocks and coral near the surface, which makes trying to get off the shore deeply unpleasant.
Many people simply enjoy the sensational views of Lombok and Gunung Rinjani (from the east coast) as well as Bali and Gunung Agung (west).
DIVING THE GILIS
The Gili Islands are an extremely popular dive destination, with plentiful and varied marine life to be encountered across about 25 closely packed sites. Turtles (green and hawksbill) and black- and white-tip reef sharks are common, and the macro life (small stuff) is excellent, with seahorses, pipefish and lots of crustaceans. Around the full moon, large schools of bumphead parrotfish appear to feast on coral spawn; at other times of year (generally February and March) manta rays cruise past dive sites.
Do note that while the Gilis have their share of virgin sites, years of bomb fishing, El Niño−induced bleaching, coral anchoring and poor tourist behaviour have damaged many corals above 18m, making deeper dives more visually appealing. Visibility is generally good (20m to 30m), temperatures range from 25°C to 30°C and usually calm stretches of water make the Gilis an excellent place to learn to dive. However, there are deeper waters, stronger currents and more challenging sites, too, catering to drift diving and more advanced practitioners.
Some of the best dive sites include the following:
Deep Halik A canyon-like site ideally suited to drift diving. Black- and white-tip sharks are often seen at 28m to 30m.
Deep Turbo At around 30m, this site is ideally suited to nitrox diving. It has impressive sea fans and leopard sharks hidden in the crevasses.
Japanese Wreck For experienced divers only (it lies at 45m), this shipwreck of a Japanese patrol boat (c WWII) is another site ideal for tech divers.
Mirko’s Reef Named for a beloved dive instructor who passed away, this canyon was never bombed and has vibrant, pristine soft and table coral formations. It’s also known as ‘Secret Reef’.
Shark Point Perhaps the most exhilarating Gili dive: reef sharks and turtles are very regularly encountered, as well as schools of bumphead parrotfish and mantas. There’s also a newly sunken tugboat to explore.
Sunset (Manta Point) Some impressive table coral; sharks and large pelagics are frequently encountered.
2Activities
Almost everything to do on Gili T will involve the water at some point, though yoga, spas and culinary classes all vie for attention.
Diving & Snorkelling
There’s fun snorkelling off the beach 200m north of the boat landing – the coral isn’t in the best shape here, but there are tons of fish and turtles. The reef is in slightly better shape off the northwest coast, but at low tide you’ll have to scramble over some sharp dead coral (bring rubber booties) to access it. Snorkel-gear rental averages 50,000Rp per day.
Trawangan is a major diving hot spot, with two-dozen professional scuba and freediving schools. Most dive schools and shops have good accommodation for clients who want to book a package.
Safety standards are reasonably high, but with the proliferation of new dive schools on Gili T, several have formed the Gili Island Divers Association (GIDA). We highly recommend diving with GIDA-associated shops, which come together for monthly meetings on conservation and dive-impact issues. They all observe common standards relating to the safety and number of their divers, carry oxygen on their boats, have working radios, and dedicate time and resources to the preservation of the reefs, waters and shoreline. They also have a price agreement for fun dives, training and certification. Sample prices:
A Introductory Dive 900,000Rp
A Open Water Course 5,500,000Rp
A Rescue Diver & EFR Course 7,000,000Rp
oFreedive GiliDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-619 7180; www.freedivegili.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; level I/level II course 3,995,000/5,495,000Rp; 
h8am-8pm)
Freediving is a breath-holding technique that allows you to explore greater depths than snorkelling (to 30m and beyond). Owned by an expert diver who has touched 111m on a single breath, Freedive Gili offers two-day level I and three-day level II courses. After a two-day course many students are able to get down to 20m. It also has yoga and accommodation on site.
oBlue Marlin Dive CentreDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-613 2424; www.bluemarlindive.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; single dive 490,000Rp)
Gili T’s original dive shop, and one of the best tech diving schools in the world. It’s a GIDA member and home to one of Gili T’s classic bars.
Trawangan DiveDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-614 9220; www.trawangandive.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; 5 guided nitrox boat dives from 2,700,000Rp) 
S
A top, long-running dive shop and GIDA member with a fun pool-party vibe. Ask how you can join the regular beach clean-ups with the Gili Eco Trust. Also runs Biorock coral gardening courses and a wide range of tech courses (including rebreather training).
Manta DiveDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-614 3649; www.manta-dive.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; open-water courses 5,500,000Rp)
The biggest SSI dive school and one of the best on the island, Manta has a large compound that spans the main road and a pool. It is a GIDA member and has instructor training and tech programs.
Lutwala DiveDIVING
(map Google map; %0877 6549 2615; www.lutwala.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; divemaster course 14,000,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
A nitrox and five-star PADI centre, this dive shop is a member of GIDA (Gili Islands Divers Association) and rents top-quality snorkelling gear. There’s accommodation on-site (rooms from 700,000Rp) plus a very nice garden cafe/bar to relax in post-plunge. Make sure you say hello to the parrots.
Surfing
Trawangan has a fast right reef break off its southern tip that is best surfed December to March or on a windless high-season day. The beach nearby is lined with vendors renting boards.
Walking & Cycling
Trawangan is perfect for exploring on foot or by bike. You can walk around the whole island in a couple of hours – if you finish at the hill on the southwestern corner (which has the remains of an old Japanese gun placement circa WWII), you’ll have terrific sunset views of Bali’s Gunung Agung.
Bikes (per day from 40,000Rp to 70,000Rp; bargain hard) are a great way to get around. You’ll find loads of rental outlets on the main strip, or your guesthouse can help you out. Beware the sandy, bike-unfriendly north coast and note that the paths across the interior of the island are usually in the best shape for cycling.
SilaCYCLING
(map Google map; %0878 6562 3015; Jl Raya Trawangan; bike rentals per day from 50,000Rp)
Has a huge range of bikes for rent, including two-seaters. Also does boat trips.
Yoga & Wellness
Desha SpaMASSAGE
(map Google map; %0877 6510 5828; Jl Kelapa; h9am-9pm)
Not as barebones as the massage parlours on the strip nor as posh and expensive as the hotel spas, this spot on the cross-island road is your happy medium. In addition to the standard massage options, there are coconut scrubs, pedicures, facials or aloe vera sunburn treatments.
Gili YogaYOGA
(map Google map; %0370-619 7180; www.giliyoga.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; per person from 120,000Rp; h7am-6pm)
Runs two daily vinyasa flow and hatha classes, and is attached to Freedive Gili.
CCourses
Sweet & Spicy Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(map Google map; %0878 6577 6429; www.facebook.com/gilicookingschool; Jl Raya Trawangan; classes from 385,000Rp)
Learn how to transform chillis and myriad other seasonings into spicy and flavourful Indonesian dishes at these entertaining daily cooking classes. As always, you get to eat your work.
4Sleeping
Gili T has reached a saturation point with hundreds of registered places to stay, ranging from thatched huts to sleek, air-conditioned villas with private pools. In peak season (July and August) the best places can book out, but with so much competition, prices have dropped considerably. You’ll find steep low-season discounts.
oGili Beach Bum HotelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0877 6526 7037; www.gilibeachbum.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; dm 140,000-200,000Rp; 
a
W
s)
Formerly the Gili Hostel, this co-ed dorm complex has 19 triple rooms, some under a thatched Torajan-style roof. The rooms have concrete floors, high ceilings, lockers and their own bathrooms. Out front is the Lava Bar (open until 1am and often raucous) and there are weekly parties in the on-site pool. Breakfast is included.
Gili La Boheme SisterHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0853 3733 4339; Jl Ikan Duyung; dm with fan/air-con 130,000/150,000Rp; aW)
Exposed brick walls, repurposed wood, tiled floors and a rainbow of colours – that’s the design formula at this quirky, eye-pleasing hostel. Some beds are located in funky hexagonal rooms, and there are several chill common areas.
Gili MansionHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0852 3836 3836; https://gilimansion.com; Jl Ikan Hiu; dm/d from 80,000/200,000Rp; aWs)
Though the gimmicky castle theme is a real island buzz kill, this always-booming hostel is nevertheless one of the best budget bets in town with clean three-bed dorms, super cheap (if soulless) private rooms and a non-stop party vibe centred around the pool.
Mango Tree HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0823 5912 0421; Jl Karang Biru; d 300,000Rp)
This friendly homestay in a quieter part of the village offers eight simple doubles facing each other across a shady, fern-filled courtyard. The young staff are relaxed but competent, ukelele music frequently sweetens the air and bikes can be hired for 40,000Rp per day.
WoodstockBUNGALOW$
(map Google map; %0878 6433 7237; www.woodstockgili.com; Jl Karang Biru; r with fan/air-con from 350,000/600,000Rp; aWs)
Should the vibe surprise you, given the name? Commune with the spirit of the Dead, drop out with Baez and turn on with Hendrix in 12 good-value rooms with tribal accents, private porches and outdoor bathrooms, all surrounding a laid-back pool area.
oBlu d’aMareBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0858 8866 2490; Jl Raya Trawangan; r from 500,000Rp; aW)
At Blu d’aMare you can bed down in one of five lovely 1920s Javanese houses (joglo). Features include gorgeous old wood floors, queen beds, and freshwater showers in a sunken bathroom. It has a fine, Euro-accented cafe.
oEden CottagesCOTTAGE$$
(map Google map; %0819 1799 6151; www.edencottages.com; Jl Lili Laut; cottages 600,000-750,000Rp; aWs)
Eden takes the form of six clean, thatched concrete bungalows wrapped around a pool, fringed by a garden and shaded by a coconut grove. Rooms have tasteful furnishings, stone bathrooms, TV-DVD and fresh-water showers. The charming expat owner does all she can to ensure her guests’ serenity (including installing wi-fi).
A new veggie cafe-bar was in the works at the time of research.
Gili Teak ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0853 3383 6324; www.giliteak.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r incl breakfast from 1,000,000Rp; aWs)
New Age bungalows have teak walls and a stylish, simple design that lets in lots of light. Terraces for each of the 11 units have plush loungers plus there’s a lovely seating area down by the ocean, all of which begs guests to settle back, relax and let the days drift by. The grounds are attractive, the cafe good.
Coconut GardenBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0819 0795 6926; www.coconutgardenresort.com; off Jl Kelapa; r incl breakfast from 750,000Rp; aWs)
An atmospheric spot with six bright and airy glass-fronted Javanese-style houses with tiled roofs connected to outdoor terrazzo bathrooms. Expect plush linens, queen beds, a rolling lawn dotted with coco palms and a small pool. It’s on its own in a quiet inland quarter of the island and can be hard to find. Call ahead.
Jali ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0817 000 5254; www.jaliresortgilitrawangan.com; Jl Nautilius; r incl breakfast 1,350,000Rp; aWs)
Sixteen turquoise-tiled rooms surround a frangipani-shaded pool in this exceedingly stylish and pleasantly compact boutique hotel.
Indigo BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %0818 0371 0909; www.facebook.com/indigogilit; Jl Penyu; r from 550,000Rp; aWs)
In the crowded Gili T midrange market, Indigo stands out for its attention to detail. The six rooms have hot water, patios and views of the pool or gardens. It’s got a nice, quiet compound feel.
Amora VillaBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0822 3521 5244; https://amoravillagili.com; off Jl Kepiting; bungalow incl breakfast 500,000-1,500,000Rp; aWs)
Thirteen lumbung (rice-barn) cottages, set deep in the village, tucked up against the hillside, surrounding a large pool. They’re a great deal off season, but overpriced in peak times.
Alexyane ParadiseBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0878 6599 9645; oceaneparadise@hotmail.com; Jl Ikan Baronang; r 300,000-900,000Rp; aW)
Five great-quality dark-wood cottages (one is family-sized) with high ceilings, bamboo beds and lovely light-flooded outdoor bathrooms.
Balé SampanHOTEL$$
(map Google map; www.balesampanbungalows.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r incl breakfast garden/pool 910,000/1,000,000Rp; aWs)
On a nice wide-open stretch of beach. The 13 fine modern-edge rooms have stone bathrooms and plush duvet covers. Other highlights include a freshwater pool and a proper English breakfast.
Alam GiliHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0370-613 0466; www.alamgili.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r from US$75; aWs)
oGili TreehousesTREEHOUSE$$$
(map Google map; %0819 1601 6634; www.gilitreehouses.com; off Jl Kelapa; r incl breakfast 1,000,000-3,500,000Rp; aWs)
These five ‘treehouses’ (really stilted wooden villas) are a welcome change from the tried and true Gili T villa concept. Though tightly packed together, each feels remarkably secluded with cool chill spaces below the rooms that have kitchenettes, loungers and private pools. Perks include free bikes and portable wi-fi boxes.
oWilson’s RetreatRESORT$$$
(map Google map; %0878 6177 2111; www.wilsons-retreat.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r/villa incl breakfast from 1,400,000/2,500,000Rp; aWs)
Wilson’s has 16 rooms plus four villas with private pools. Even though the setting is expansive, stylish and classy, it still manages some Gili languor. The excellent cafe overlooks a fine stretch of beach.
oGili JogloVILLA$$$
(map Google map; %0813 5678 4741; www.gilijoglo.com; Jl Ikan Hiu; villas from 1,500,000Rp; aW)
You’ll find three fabulous villas here. One is crafted out of an antique joglo (traditional Javanese house) with polished concrete floors, two bedrooms and a massive indoor/outdoor great room. Though slightly smaller, we prefer the one built from two 1950s gladaks (middle-class homes). Rooms come with butler service.
Pearl of TrawanganRESORT$$$
(map Google map; %0813 3715 6999; www.pearloftrawangan.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r incl breakfast from 1,600,000Rp; aWs)
Sinuous bamboo and thatch architecture echo the snakelike curves of the pool at this upscale property at the south end of the strip. There are tidy bungalows with 91 rooms on the inland side of the beach walk. Terraces boast very comfortable loungers. On the actual beach, there’s a plush beach club.
Gili Eco VillasVILLA$$$
(map Google map; %0370-613 6057; www.giliecovillas.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; r/villa from US$120/250; aWs) S
Nineteen classy rooms and villas, made from recycled teak salvaged from old Javanese colonial buildings, are set back from the beach on Trawangan’s relaxed north coast. Comfort and style are combined with solid green principles (water is recycled and there’s an organic vegetable garden).
Kelapa VillasVILLA$$$
(map Google map; %0812 375 6003; www.kelapavillas.com; Jl Kelapa; villas from 1,500,000Rp; aWs)
Luxury development in an inland location with a selection of 18 commodious villas (all with private pools) that offer style and space in abundance. A tennis court and a gym are in the complex.
5Eating
Gili T now rivals Bali in its culinary prowess with slick coffee shops, creative Indo fusion eateries and plenty of vegan and health-food cafes. In the evenings, numerous places on the main strip display and grill delicious fresh seafood. Pick by what looks good (it should all be super-fresh), and by whose grilling skills seem to be superior.
oJali KitchenASIAN$
(map Google map; %0817 000 5254; www.jaliresortgilitrawangan.com; Jl Nautilius; mains 45,000-70,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W
v)
Distressed wood, gorgeous tiles and abundant foliage combine to give this eye-pleasing restaurant a chic and earthy vibe. The Asian-fusion dishes combine the familiar with the exotic in intriguing ways, and there are several options for vegetarians. Stand-out service to boot!
oWarung DewiINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0819 0763 3826; Jl Kardinal; mains 25,000-35,000Rp; h7am-8pm)
The best traditional warung on Gili T is just a few steps back from the high-priced bustle of the main strip. The nasi campur is fantastic (coconut sambal, jackfruit curry, fried chicken and several vegetable sides is a common combination) while vegetarians will like the plecing kangkung (a spicy Sasak water spinach dish).
HellocapitanoCAFE$
(map Google map; %0853 3313 4110; www.hellocapitano.com; Jl Nautilius; mains 45,000-75,000Rp; h7am-9pm)
A whimsical little pastel shack where you can order delicious smoothie bowls, iced lattes, burgers or local bites (try the chicken rendang!). Sit upstairs for a breezy sea view and be sure to ask the owner about his land- and water-based island tours.
oPituq WaroengVEGAN$$
(map Google map; %0812 3677 5161; http://pituq.com; Jl Kelapa; small plates 20,000-30,000Rp; h9am-10pm; v)
FanCHINESE$$
(map Google map; %0852 5331 9394; www.facebook.com/fanchinesefood; Jl Cumi Cumi; mains 50,000-85,000; h9.30am-9.30pm)
Homemade dumplings, wontons and broad noodles are the stars of this tiny Chinese restaurant that expats rave about as their secret spot. You’ll dine at one long table and probably leave with new friends.
Pearl Beach LoungeINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0370-619 4884; www.pearlbeachlounge.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; mains 70,000-200,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
The bamboo flows only a little less fluidly than the beer at this high-concept beachside lounge and restaurant. During the day, spending 100,000Rp on food and drink from the burger- and salad-filled menu gets you access to comfy beach loungers. At night the striking bamboo main pavilion comes alive, and more complex steak and seafood mains are on offer.
ReginaPIZZA$$
(map Google map; %0877 6506 6255; Jl Ikan Hiu; pizza 40,000-100,000Rp; h5-11pm)
The wood-fired oven rarely gets a break at this excellent Italian joint, just inland. At busy times there’s a long line for takeaway pizzas, but a better option is to find a bamboo table in the garden and have some cold ones with the fine thin-crust pies. A sign announces: ‘no pizza pineapple’. Ahh, the sound of authenticity…
Kayu CaféCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0878 6547 2260; www.facebook.com/kayucafe; Jl Raya Trawangan; mains 65,000-70,000Rp; h7am-9pm; W)
One of the original cafes here, on the inland side of the strip, Kayu has a lovely array of healthy baked goods, salads, sandwiches, rice bowls and the island’s best juices, all served in air-con comfort.
GREEN GILI
When you pay your hotel or diving bill on the Gilis you may be offered the chance to pay an ‘Eco Donation’ (50,000Rp per person). It’s a voluntary donation, set up by the pioneering Gili Eco Trust (www.giliecotrust.com) to improve the islands’ environment.
It’s a worthy cause. The environmental pressure on the Gilis as their popularity has grown is enormous. Intensive development and rubbish plus offshore reef damage from fishers using cyanide and dynamite to harvest fish have been just some of the problems. Up to 10,000 visitors and workers arrive on the islands each day.
Gili Eco Trust has several initiatives to help:
A Selling reusable shopping bags to cut down on plastic-bag use, and encouraging restaurants to stop using plastic straws (we didn’t see any when we visited!).
A An aggressive education campaign to get locals and business owners to recycle their rubbish. There are now over 1000 recycling bins on the islands.
A A long-term scheme to recycle virtually all the trash on the islands with a rubbish bank.
A Care of the islands’ horses – vet clinics are offered and there are driver-education programs in horse care.
A Biorock, an artificial reef-restoration program that now has over 150 installations around the islands.
A Installing more than 150 mooring buoys to stop coral anchoring.
There are many ways visitors to the Gilis can help, besides just paying the Eco Tax:
Clean up the beach Gili Eco Trust organises regular beach clean-ups (typically on Fridays at 5pm). More hands are always needed, and you’ll be rewarded for your time with some free treats or a beer from the weekly sponsor.
Report horse mistreatment Anyone seeing a cidomo (horse-drawn cart) driver mistreating a horse can get the number of the cart and report it to the Eco Trust (0813 3960 0553), which will follow up with the driver. Unfortunately, many transport carts with their heavy loads of construction supplies and Bintang have no cart numbers for reporting.
Build a reef For 10,000,000Rp you’ll get two dives a day for two weeks, can help build a Biorock installation and get various specialist diving certifications. Gili Eco Trust has details.
Refill water bottles Help cut down on plastic waste by refilling your water bottle at designated stations all across the Gilis. Some places offer water refills for free; others for about 2000Rp or 3000Rp (way cheaper than buying a new bottle!). Download the app Refill Bali to find the closest tank.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Gili T has oodles of beachside drinking dens, ranging from sleek lounge bars to simple shacks. Parties are held several nights a week, shifting between mainstay bars such as Tir na Nog and various other upstarts. The strip south of the pier is the centre for raucous nightlife with places that were once bars now rapidly evolving into full-fledged clubs.
oCasa Vintage BeachLOUNGE
(map Google map; www.casavintagebeach.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; h10am-midnight)
Facing Bali’s Gunung Agung and some superb sunsets, Casa Vintage is the best place to enjoy a sundowner on Trawangan. A brochure-perfect beach is littered with cushions and loungers, trees shelter hammocks and trestles, the Swedish-Jamaican owners do amazing Caribbean food (mains 70,000Rp to 115,000Rp), the soundtrack is just right (Billie Holiday, reggae, latin) and bonfires keep the atmosphere warm past sundown.
ExileBAR
(map Google map; %0819 0772 1858; http://theexilegilit.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; h8am-late)
This beach bar has a party vibe at all hours. It’s locally owned and 20 minutes from the main strip on foot, or an easy bike ride. There is also a compound of 10 woven bamboo bungalows with rooms from 450,000Rp, just in case home seems too far.
Tir na NogPUB
(map Google map; %0370-613 9463; www.tirnanogbar.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; h7am-2am Thu-Tue, to 3am Wed; W)
Known simply as ‘the Irish’, this hangar of hangovers has a sports-bar interior with big screens. Its shoreside open-air bar is probably the busiest meeting spot on the island. It serves bar chow such as fajitas and spicy wings (mains 50,000Rp to 100,000Rp). Jovial mayhem truly reigns on ‘party night’ every Wednesday. There’s also live music Sunday nights.
Blue MarlinBAR
(map Google map; Jl Raya Trawangan; h8am-late)
Of all the party bars, this upper-level venue has the largest dance floor and the meanest sound system – it pumps trance and tribal beats on Mondays.
7Shopping
AbdiCLOTHING
(map Google map; Jl Raya Trawangan; h10am-8pm)
Forgot your favourite frock? Shop for flouncy beachwear at this stylish shop.
8Information
Gili T has abundant ATMs on the main strip and even on the west coast.
Blue Island Medical Clinic (map; %0819 9970 5701; http://blueislandclinic.com; Jl Raya Trawangan; h24hr) Medical clinic among the shops immediately south of Hotel Vila Ombak. Also has clinics on Gili Air and Gili Meno.
8Getting There & Away
You can buy tickets and catch public and island-hopping boats at the public boat landing (map). While you wait for your ship to sail, note the amazing number of Bintang bottles arriving full and leaving empty. Several of the fast-boat companies have offices on Gili T. These fast boats anchor all along the beach on the east side.
Gili Meno
%0370 / Pop 700
Gili Meno is the smallest of the three Gili Islands and a good setting for your desert-island fantasy. Ringed by gorgeous beaches and teeming reefs, Meno is also the quietest and most traditional of the three, beloved more of honeymooners and mature travellers than the full-moon-party set.
Most accommodation is strung out along the east coast, near the most picturesque beach. Inland you’ll find scattered homesteads, coconut plantations and a salty lake. The once-lonely west coast is seeing some high-profile development, including an enormous beachside condo project called Bask (www.baskgilimeno.com) that is slated to have over 85 villas when it opens in 2020. It’s got some powerful Australian backers and a high-profile pitchman, ex-Baywatch star David Hasselhoff (aka ‘The Hoff’). The effect of this huge resort on little Gili Meno is likely to be profound.
rBeaches
Ringed by sand, Gili Meno has one of the best strips of beach in the Gilis at its southeast corner. The beach is wide and the sand powdery white, and the swimming and snorkelling are excellent. The west coast is rockier, with outcrops and coral near the surface at low tide. Meno’s northeast also has nice sand, although erosion is a problem in parts.
2Activities
Like the other Gilis, most of the fun here involves getting wet. Additionally, walking around the island is scenic and takes less than two hours.
Although you can rent bikes for 50,000Rp per day, you won’t get far. The beach path from the southern tip right up the west coast is a shadeless dry sand path that may have you pushing your ride. You can go for a little jaunt to the northwest coast on the path along the north side of the salt lake, but again, soft sand along the very north makes riding a chore.
Diving & Snorkelling
Snorkelling is good off the northeast coast, on the west coast towards the north, and also around the site of the vast new Bask hotel on the west coast, where you’ll find the underwater sculpture Nest. Gear is available from 50,000Rp per day from guesthouses or dive shops (of which there are only a few on this island). Meno Slope (map Google map) and Meno Wall (map Google map) are two top dive sites.
oNestSNORKELLING
Gili Meno’s most photographed sight, Nest isn’t even on the island itself, but rather just offshore from the BASK resort (set to open in 2020). BASK commissioned British artist Jason deCaires Taylor to create an underwater sculpture comprised of 48 life-sized human figures made from pH neutral, environmental grade concrete. Over time, the figures will provide a new home for soft corals and sponges, contributing to reef regeneration.
Nest is easily accessible from the shore in about 3m of water, though most of its visitors boat over from Gili T and Gili Air.
Gili Meno DiversDIVING
(map Google map; %0878 6409 5490; www.gilimenodivers.com; Kontiki Cottages; introductory dive from 900,000Rp; h9am-5pm)
French and Indonesian owned, this well-respected dive shop offers a range of courses, including freediving and underwater photography.
Blue OceanWATER SPORTS
(map Google map; %0813 3950 9859; Fantastic Cottages; boat tours per person 150,000Rp)
The irrepressible Mr Dean offers snorkelling boat tours of the rich waters around the Gilis. Tours are two to three hours. He’ll drop you at another island, so you can check out underwater delights as you island-hop.
Divine DiversDIVING
(map Google map; %0852 4057 0777; www.divinedivers.com; guided dives from 490,000Rp)
This Meno-only dive shop is on a sweet slice of beach on the west coast. It has six rooms, a pool and offers some good dive/stay packages.
Blue Marlin DiveDIVING
(map Google map; %0370-639980; www.bluemarlindive.com; guided boat dives 490,000Rp)
The Meno outlet of the Trawangan original, this is a well-respected mainstream dive shop.
Yoga
oMao MenoYOGA
(map Google map; %0817 003 0777; www.mao-meno.com; classes from 120,000Rp)
Offers two daily classes in styles that include hatha and vinyasa in a beautiful natural wood pavilion. It has cottages on its inland compound that range from simple to luxurious and rent from US$36 per night.
4Sleeping
Meno now leads the way in Gili growth with prices climbing sharply alongside visitor numbers. As developers announce their posh new projects, older, more modest guesthouses have been literally wiped off the map. Though Meno skews more upmarket than its neighbours, it’s also home to two of the best hostels in the Gilis.
oRabbit TreeHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0812 9149 1843; www.therabbittree.com; dm with fan/air-con 110,000/135,000Rp, d with air-con 240,000Rp; aW)
You know you’ve tripped deep down the rabbit hole when you find yourself sleeping on a dorm bed in a technicolour ball pit, or when the floor you’re walking on suddenly becomes a netted hammock. Such are the befuddling joys of the most bonkers hostel in the Gilis, a true Wonderland for every Alice wannabe.
oGili Meno Eco HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/gilimenoecohostel; hammock/dm/r 60,000/100,000/250,000Rp; W) S
A fantasy in driftwood, bamboo and coconut-palm thatch, this is the place you dream about when you’re stuck in the freezing cold at home waiting for a train. A shady lounge, tree houses, beach bar and more open onto the sand, and there are trivia nights, pizza nights, music, bonfires and other social activities. It’s also instrumental in humanitarian initiatives around the island.
oMeno Dream ResortBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0819 1596 1251; http://gilimenobungalows.com; bungalows incl breakfast from 500,000Rp; aWs)
This intimate property has just five bungalows surrounding a central pool and tranquil garden. Each has a unique character with art on the walls, gorgeous sunken showers, and covered verandahs. Guests rave about the onsite restaurant, free bikes and friendly service from owners Made and Berni.
Biru Menu Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0823 4143 4317; www.birumeno.com; d/f bungalow 1,000,000/1,500,000Rp; aW)
Attractive bungalows in a tree-shaded compound are the headline feature in this unassuming but welcoming resort, which went through a major rebuild after the 2018 earthquakes. The beach is just over the shore path. The cafe has a wood-burning pizza oven.
Seri ResortRESORT$$
(map Google map; %0822 3759 6677; www.seriresortgilimeno.com; r 400,000-1,600,000Rp; aWs)
It’s a tough call, but we think this beachfront resort is just that much whiter than the surrounding sand. There is an interesting range of 75 rooms here, from budget huts that share bathrooms to suites in three-storey blocks, to luxurious beach villas. Service is good, the atmosphere high end and there are activities including yoga.
Ana BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0878 6169 6315; www.anawarung.com; r with fan/air-con from 400,000/600,000Rp; aW)
Four pitched-roof, thatch-and-bamboo bungalows with picture windows, and pebbled floors in the outdoor bathrooms. This family-run place has a cute used-book exchange on the beach next to its four lovely dining berugas (open-sided pavilions) lit with paper lanterns. Seafood dinners are excellent, as is the location.
MahamayaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0811 390 5828; www.mahamaya.co; r from 2,150,000Rp; aWs) S
A blindingly whitewashed modern pearl with resort service and 19 rooms featuring attractive rough-cut marble patios and white- and washed-wood furnishings. The restaurant is good; have dinner at the water’s edge at your own private table.
5Eating
Meno’s dining scene is not nearly as developed as that of neighbouring islands, but almost all of its restaurants have absorbing sea views (which is just as well as service can be painfully slow).
Breakfast at one of the cafes on Meno’s east coast is a sublime experience of turquoise water and Gunung Rinjani views.
oWarung Pak Man BuatiINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; mains 25,000Rp; h7am-9pm)
Chef Juno became something of a local hero after the 2018 earthquakes when he tirelessly fed the Meno community with all the food he could muster. His homestyle Indonesian cooking remains the stuff of island legends. Though he was operating out of makeshift tent when we passed through, he should have his warung up and running by the time you read this.
oSasak CafeINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0332-662379; mains 40,000-45,000Rp; hkitchen 7am-9pm, bar to late)
Set near Meno’s quiet western shore, this island-casual resto does crispy fish and other yummy Sasak dishes. At sunset, it brings tables and chairs out onto the nearby beach for cocktails and live music as the sky takes on a rosy glow.
Ya Ya WarungINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; dishes 15,000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Defining ramshackle, this beach food stall serves up Indonesian faves, curries, pancakes and plenty of pasta, along with the views you came to Meno to enjoy.
Webe CaféINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0852 3787 3339; mains 30,000-75,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
A wonderful location for a meal, Webe Café has low tables sunk in the sand (and tables under shade), with the turquoise water just a metre away. It scores well for Sasak and Indonesian food such as kelak kuning (snapper in yellow spice); staff fire up a seafood barbecue most nights, too. Service can be slow.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Meno is the kind of island where you stroll along a white beach, then plop down under a bamboo thatched shack for a cold beer while sand tickles your toes.
oBrother HoodBAR
(map Google map; %0819 0717 9286; www.facebook.com/anasasakbungalows; workshops by donation; hworkshops 9am-5pm, bar 5pm-late) S
How to describe this place? On one hand, it’s an educational hub promoting a cleaner island through garbage pick ups (each Sunday at 3.30pm) and recycling workshops where you can make dreamcatchers, glass cups, bamboo straws and other upcycled art. Come 5pm, however, it’s a raging reggae bar where you can feel good about drinking since all those cocktails fund the daytime activities.
Diana CaféBAR
(map Google map; %0819 3317 1943; h8am-2pm & 5-10pm)
If you find the pace of life on Meno too busy, head to this thoroughly chilled little tiki bar. Diana couldn’t be simpler: a bamboo-and-thatch bar, a few tables, hammocks and huts on the sand, a whimsical coral garden and sweet reggae in the air. Happy hours are 5pm to 7pm, and the food (mains 35,000Rp to 40,000Rp) is good.
7Shopping
Art Shop BotolARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; hhours vary)
8Information
Meno has three ATMs.
8Getting There & Away
The public boat landing is an increasingly busy place. None of the fast boats from Bali directly serve Meno, although some provide connections. Otherwise, you can go to Gili Trawangan or Gili Air and take the regular inter-island fast boat. The beach landing is the choppiest of the three Gilis; sometimes a small lighter is required to get passengers out to the fast boats.
Gili Air
%0370 / Pop 1800
Closest of the Gilis to Lombok, Gili Air blends Gili T’s buzz and bustle with Meno’s minimalist vibe, and is for many just right. The white-sand beaches here are arguably the best of the Gili bunch, and there’s just enough nightlife to keep the sociable happy. Snorkelling is good right from the main strip along the east coast – a lovely sandy lane dotted with bamboo bungalows and little restaurants where you can eat virtually on top of a turquoise sea.
Though tourism dominates Gili Air’s economy, coconuts, fishing and creating the fake distressed fishing boat wood vital to any stylish Gili guesthouse are important income streams. Buzzy little strips have developed along the beaches in the southeast and the west, although the lanes are still more sandy than paved.
rBeaches
The entire east side of the island has great beaches with powdery white sand and a gentle slope into beautiful turquoise water, with a foot-friendly sandy bottom. There are also good, private spots the rest of the way around Gili Air, but low-tide rocks and coral are a problem. For drinks and sunset, head north.
2Activities
Bikes can be rented for 40,000Rp to 70,000Rp a day, but large sections of the coastal path in the north and west are annoying to ride, as long slogs of deep sand swallow the trail at times and mud after rains can make it impassable. Inland lanes, however, are mostly concrete and very rideable. Some shops have fat bikes (bikes with huge tyres) that make sand a little more manageable.
Diving & Snorkelling
The entire east coast has an offshore reef teeming with colourful fish; there’s a drop-off about 100m to 200m out. Snorkelling gear is easily hired from guesthouses and dive shops for about 50,000Rp per day. Air Wall (map Google map) is a beautiful soft-coral wall off the island’s west, while off the north there’s Frogfish Point and Hans Reef. Snorkelling spots can be reached from the eastern and northeastern beaches.
Gili Air has an excellent collection of dive shops, which charge the standard Gili rates.
oGili Air DiversDIVING
(map Google map; %0878 6536 7551; www.giliairdivers.com; Grand Sunset; guided diving boat trip 490,000Rp; h8am-8pm) S
This French-Indo-owned dive shop is long on charm and skill. Also offers introductory freediving classes and SSI Level 1 and 2 courses.
Blue Marine Dive CentreDIVING
(map Google map; %0811 390 2550; www.bluemarinedive.com; night dive/10 dives 990,000/4,500,000Rp; h7.30am-7.30pm) S
Blue Marine has a nice location on the beautiful northeast corner of the island, and also offers freediving, stand-up paddleboarding and yoga (120,000Rp per class). The owner is very active in reef preservation efforts.
Oceans 5DIVING
(map Google map; %0813 3877 7144; www.oceans5dive.com; single dives from 490,000Rp) S
Has a 25m training pool, an in-house marine biologist and nice hotel rooms. Also offers a program of yoga diving, and emphasises sustainable diving practices to its guests.
Surfing
Directly off the southern tip of the island there’s Play Gili, a short, peeling right-hand break that can get big at times. May to October brings the best conditions.
Yoga & Wellness
oFlowers & Fire YogaYOGA
(map Google map; http://flowersandfire.yoga; 1/3/5 classes 120,000/330,0000/500,000Rp; h9am-6pm)
A welcoming, spiritual and serene yoga garden for pre- and post-beach classes. It also has a great health-food cafe, popular curry and movie nights, and on-site accommodation ranging from a luxe dorm (think Egyptian cotton sheets, 300,000Rp) to well-designed bungalows (1,000,000Rp). Guests get discounts on classes.
H2O YogaYOGA
(map Google map; %0877 6103 8836; www.h2oyogaandmeditation.com; class/3hr workshop 120,000/300,000Rp)
This wonderful yoga and meditation centre is found down a well-signposted track leading inland from Gili Air’s eastern shore. Top-quality classes (at 7am, 9am, or 5pm for ‘candlelight yoga’) are held in one of two lovely thatched shalas. H2O also offers a day spa, a pool (with aqua yoga classes), accommodation (doubles from 270,000Rp) and seven-day retreats (from US$625).
H2O’s Good Earth Cafe sells restorative and healthy post-yoga treats from 7am to 4.30pm.
Harmony SpaSPA
(map Google map; %0812 386 5883; www.facebook.com/harmonygiliair; massages from 120,000Rp; h9am-8pm)
The beautiful north-coast location alone will make you feel renewed. Facials, body treatments and more are on offer. Call first.
CCourses
Gili Cooking ClassesCOOKING
(map Google map; %0877 6506 7210; www.gilicookingclasses.com; classes from 290,000Rp)
This slick operation has a large kitchen for daily classes right on the strip. You have a range of options for what you’ll learn to cook – choose wisely as you’ll be eating your work.
4Sleeping
Gili Air’s dozens of places to stay are mostly located on the east coast, though you’ll find more isolation in the west. Bungalows, in one shape or another, are the uniting theme.
BegadangHOSTEL$
(map Google map; begadangbackpackers@gmail.com; dm/d/tr from 200,000/250,000/350,000Rp; aWs)
This sprawling complex of basic bungalows in the northern interior of Gili Air is truly backpacker central, with a mushroom-shaped pool, heaps of inflatables, a hopping bar, a ping-pong table and even life-sized Connect Four. The cheaper doubles are little more than a mattress in a two-by-two-metre hut. The air-con triples are much nicer for small groups.
HideoutHOSTEL$
(map Google map; www.giliairhostel.com; dm from 120,000Rp; hreception 7.30am-7pm; aW)
Rooms at this fun hostel were newly refurbished after the 2018 earthquakes, with three beds and a bathroom apiece. The decor defines cheery, and it has a cool bar, hot showers, free breakfast and a huge frangipani tree.
Bintang Beach 2BUNGALOW$
(map Google map; %0819 742 3519; bungalow from 250,000Rp; aW)
On Gili Air’s quiet northwest coast, this sandy but tidy compound has 25 basic bungalows (ranging from budget-friendly and fan-cooled to mildly snazzy) and an open-sided beach-bar/restaurant that’s a delightful place to linger. This enterprising clan has a few other guesthouses nearby, rents bikes and snorkelling gear, and can take care of your laundry.
oSejuk CottagesBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0813 3953 5387; d from 450,000Rp, f 1,350,000Rp; aWs)
Thirteen well-built, tastefully designed thatched lumbung (rice-barn) cottages, and pretty two- and three-storey cottages (some have rooftop living rooms) scattered around a fine tropical garden with a spring-fed pool. Some rooms are fan-only; others have rooftop hammocks.
oBiba Beach VillageBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0819 1727 4648; www.bibabeach.com; bungalow incl breakfast 800,000-1,600,000Rp; aW)
Biba offers nine lovely, spacious bungalows with large verandahs, and grotto-like bathrooms that have walls inlaid with shells and coral. The gorgeous garden overlooks a great stretch of beach. Biba is also home to a good Italian restaurant (9am to 10pm). The best rooms have sea views.
Grand SunsetBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0819 3433 7000; www.grandsunsetgiliair.com; r 600,000-1,900,000Rp; aWs)
These 25 sturdily built, bungalow-style rooms reflect the ethos of this modest resort: solid. Bathrooms are well designed and open-air, rooms have all the basic comforts, the pool is large and the beachside loungers have superb views. Plus there’s the quietude that comes with the location on the sunset side of Air.
Rival VillageGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %0819 1749 8187; www.facebook.com/rivalvillagegiliair; r 300,000-600,000Rp; aW)
This modest four-room guesthouse just gets everything right. The French owners have created a sparklingly clean little compound amid family houses off one of the village’s main paths. Rooms are large, the bathrooms are open-air, breakfast is delicious, everything works. Très bon!
Youpy BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0852 5371 5405; rizkylily7@gmail.com; r 450,000-800,000Rp; aW)
Among the outcrop of driftwood-decorated beach cafes and guesthouses strung along the coast north of Blue Marine Dive Centre, Youpy has some of the best-quality bungalows. Bathrooms have beachy designs, the beds are big, and the ceilings are high.
Pelangi CottagesBUNGALOW$$
(map Google map; %0819 3316 8648; pelangicottages@yahoo.co.id; r incl breakfast 500,000-700,000Rp; aWs)
Set on the north end of the island with coral reef out front, this place has 10 spacious but basic concrete and wood bungalows, friendly management, and quality mountain bikes for rent.
Vyaana ResortRESORT$$$
(map Google map; %0877 6538 8515; www.vyaanagiliair.com; r incl breakfast 1,600,000Rp; aWs)
This swath of beach on the sunset side of Gili Air is still fairly quiet, and this bungalow compound is a fine place to enjoy it. The eight (slightly overpriced) units are widely spaced for privacy, and cute little artistic touches abound.
Villa Casa MioBUNGALOW$$$
(map Google map; %0370-619 8437; www.giliair.com; cottages incl breakfast from 1,500,000Rp; aWs)
Casa Mio has fine cottages with pretty garden bathrooms, as well as a riot of knick-knacks from the artistic to the kitsch. The floridly named rooms (‘Ocean of Love’, ‘Tropical Smile’) have fridges, stereos and nice sun decks with loungers. It’s on a great beach, plus there’s a shade-fringed pool.
5Eating
Most places on Gili Air are locally owned and offer an unbeatable setting for a meal, with tables overlooking the water. Some of the most interesting new restaurants are opening on the backstreets of the village.
Warung BambuINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0878 6405 0402; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
A cheap, friendly and artfully decorated option for tasty local food (try the tempe curry!). It’s two blocks in from the boat landing.
oPachamamaHEALTH FOOD$$
(map Google map; %0878 6415 2100; www.pachamamagiliair.com; mains 70,000-85,000Rp; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; v)
This oh-so-hip health food restaurant brews its own kombucha, crafts exotic smoothies (or cocktails!) and has lots of flavourful veg, vegan and gluten-free options. It’s a bit out of the way in the northern interior, but well worth the hike.
oRuby’sINDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %0878 6575 6064; mains 45,000-85,000Rp; hnoon-10pm)
One of the finest places to eat in the Gilis. Candles flicker atop wooden tables at this back-lane eatery. The menu is short and there are daily specials; the secret here is the namesake genius in the kitchen. The calamari is perfectly light and crispy, the green curry is flavourful and nuanced, the burgers are simply superb. Great desserts.
Mowie’sFUSION$$
(map Google map; %0878 6423 1384; www.mowiesbargiliair.com; mains 55,000-90,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
With a menu full of creative Indonesian and Western fusion fare, an ideal sunset location on the beach and chill EDM tunes after dark, Mowies is the kind of place where you could show up for lunch and never leave.
Boogils Sunset LoungeSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; %0819 3301 7727; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; h9am-11pm)
More ambitious than your usual beachside bamboo hang-outs, Boogils offers a nightly seafood barbecue and an ever-changing line-up of fresh fare. Good pasta shows what the Italians can do with mie (noodles). Come for drinks, stay for sunset and then have a moonlit meal. (On a bike, buzz over via the paved interior lanes.)
Scallywags Beach ClubINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0819 1743 2086; www.scallywagsresort.com; mains 50,000-150,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
Set on Gili Air’s softest and widest beach, Scallywags offers elegant decor, upscale comfort food, great barbecue, homemade gelato and superb cocktails here. But the best feature is the alluring beach dotted with loungers. The choice of sambals is sublime.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Gili Air is usually a mellow place, but there are full-moon parties and things can rev up at the sunset bars in high season. The largest concentration of bars is on the otherwise tranquil northern coast.
Pura VidaLOUNGE
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/puravidagiliair; h11am-11pm)
A stylish bar with huge pillows and a rainbow of tables and chairs on the sand. Classy jazz plays over the sound system, and some nights there’s live reggae music. A wood-fired oven produces great thin-crust pizzas through the evening. Tops at sunset.
K69BAR
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/kopidarat; h9am-11pm) S
This eccentric bar-cum-gallery is run by the Sulawesi-born artist Hardi, who also offers silkscreen workshops (150,000Rp). It’s largely built out of recycled materials and has rotating exhibits of Indonesian art. Come for tea by day and wine by night.
Coffee & ThymeCAFE
(map Google map; %0821 4499 3622; www.coffeeandthyme.co; h7am-7pm)
Right in the thick of things, where boats to Gili Air disgorge their sun-seeking seafarers, Coffee & Thyme is a bustling, part-open-air cafe that makes some of the best coffee in the Gilis. Also good if you’re craving a Western-style breakfast, lunch wrap or muffin.
Lucky’s BarBAR
(map Google map; h7am-late)
A great beach bar: lounge back on bamboo recliners and watch the sun set behind Gili Meno. There are DJs on Sundays and monthly full-moon parties with fire dancing.
Sumbawa
Elaborately contorted and sprawling into the sea, Sumbawa is all volcanic ridges, terraced rice fields, dry expanses and sheltered bays. Though well connected to Bali and Lombok, it’s a very different sort of place – far less developed, mostly very dry, much poorer, extremely conservative and split between two distinct peoples. Those who speak Sumbawanese probably reached the west of the island from Lombok, while Bimanese speakers dominate the Tambora Peninsula and the east. Although Sumbawa is an overwhelmingly Islamic island, in remote parts underground adat (traditional law and lore) still thrives.
Mostly traffic-free and in great shape, the Trans-Sumbawa Hwy is excellent for getting quickly between Lombok and Flores. Transport connections off this trunk road are infrequent and uncomfortable, and most overland travellers don’t even get off the bus in Sumbawa as they float and roll from Lombok to Flores. For now, it’s the domain of surfers, miners and mullahs.
8Dangers & Annoyances
A Most Sumbawans are hospitable and genuinely excited to see foreigners enjoying their island. That said, past protests against foreign-owned mining operations have turned violent, though these issues are now largely resolved.
A The island is also much more conservative in terms of religion than neighbouring Lombok or Flores; behave modestly at all times.
A Indonesia’s anti-terrorism police make raids and arrests around Bima.
A English is not as widely understood on Sumbawa as it is on neighbouring islands. A translating app can help bridge the language gap.
8Getting There & Away
There are airports on either end of Sumbawa in Bima and Sumbawa Besar, which receive domestic flights from nearby islands. Most visitors arrive on ferries from either Lombok or Flores.
8Getting Around
Sumbawa’s main highway runs from Taliwang (near the west coast) through Sumbawa Besar, Dompu and Bima to Sape (the ferry port on the east coast). Fleets of long-distance buses, some of them air-conditioned, run between the west coast ferry port of Poto Tano and Sape, serving all the major towns between.
You’ll need private transport to navigate Sumbawa’s outskirts effectively.
Car hire is possible through hotels: depending on your destination, the cost will be about 600,000Rp to 800,000Rp per day, including a driver and fuel. Motorbikes cost 50,000Rp to 80,000Rp a day.
West Sumbawa
%0372
West Sumbawa is dry and rolling. Beaches are wide, sugar-white and framed with domed headlands. Bays are enormous and dynamic: they can be tranquil one hour and fold into overhead barrels the next. Sumbawa Besar, the largest city here, is a humble and devoutly Muslim place with a good morning market. Pulau Moyo, a lush jewel off the northern shore, has revered diving and snorkelling. Once solely the domain of the rich and famous, it now has options for travellers on any budget.
Poto Tano
%0372 / Pop 9330
Poto Tano, the main port for ferries to/from Lombok, is a ramshackle harbour, fringed by stilt-fishing villages with tremendous views of Gunung Rinjani. It’s a pretty place, but there’s no need to sleep here.
Ferries run almost hourly, 24 hours a day, between Labuhan Lombok and Poto Tano (passengers/motorbikes/cars 17,000Rp/49,500Rp/431,000Rp, 1½ hours). Through buses to Lombok include the ferry fare.
Buses meet the ferry and go to Sumbawa Besar (35,000Rp, 2½ hours) or Taliwang (25,000Rp, one hour), where you can catch infrequent transport further south.
Jelenga
%0372 / Pop 200
Set along an enormous horseshoe bay, Jelenga is a humble country beach town with rice fields, goat farms and a world-class left break known as Scar Reef. It’s one of the most serene beaches in Sumbawa, and the perfect base for low-key travellers to kick around in the sand for a few days. Find it by turning toward the coast in Jereweh, 11km south of the regional capital Taliwang.
4Sleeping
A handful of quality lodges line the sand along Jelenga’s shores. While most are aimed at surfers, non-surfers will feel more welcomed here than at any other surf town in West Sumbawa.
All hotels along the beach in Jelenga have restaurants serving a combination of Western and Indonesian cuisine.
Wood Garden BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0821 4721 4166; www.facebook.com/thewoodthaticould; bungalows 350,000Rp, r without bathroom 150,000Rp)
These three bungalows built out of recycled teak (some of it from royal palaces, we’re told) are set back about 100m from the beach on a leafy patch of land. They sleep up to three each and include outdoor bathrooms that are far more lavish than the plain interiors. There are also basic budget rooms with less glorious shared bathrooms.
oScar Reef LodgeLODGE$$
(%0812 3980 4885; www.scarreeflodge.com; r US$35-55, cabin for 6 from US$120; aW)
A modern lodge for surfers. The five rooms (two of which are air-conditioned) have soaring ceilings, wood furnishings, and a common beachside restaurant and lounge area. It also has a cabin for groups, plenty of beach pouffes and a yoga shala for DIY sun salutations. Surf, SUP and motorbike rentals are all available.
8Information
The nearest ATMs are along the main road through Taliwang.
8Getting There & Away
The small, conservative town of Taliwang is the regional transport hub. Buses go from Taliwang to Poto Tano (25,000Rp, one hour) almost hourly, where you can hop on a bus to Mataram or Sumbawa Besar. Early morning and evening buses head to Maluk (30,000Rp, one hour).
The 45-minute ojek ride from Taliwang to Jelenga costs 50,000Rp. Most hotels in Jelenga can arrange private transfers from nearby destinations and will rent motorbikes for about 70,000Rp per day.
Maluk
%0372 / Pop 11,930
South of Taliwang, the beaches and bays try to outdo one another. Your first stop is the working-class commercial district of Maluk, 30km south of Taliwang. Yes, the town is ugly, but the beach is superb. The sand is a blend of white and gold, and the bay is buffered by two headlands. There’s good swimming in the shallows, and when the swell hits, the reef further out sculpts perfect barrels.
Directly south of Maluk, within walking distance of the beach (though it is a long walk) is Supersuck, consistently rated the best left in the world. Surfers descend regularly from Hawaii’s North Shore to surf here – which should tell you something – and many lifelong surfers have proclaimed it the finest barrel of their lives. It really pumps in the dry season (May to October).
One of the world’s largest copper mines, about 20km inland of Maluk, has driven a wave of development and attracted scores of employees from across Indonesia and abroad. The PT Amman Mineral Nusa Tenggara (AMNT) employs about 3000 workers, and has had a huge impact on the area (you’ll see its vast port facilities along the coastal road). Most of the expat restaurant and bar traffic is in Townsite, a private company enclave complete with a golf course and other amenities. Casual visits are discouraged (except for the golf course, which is open to the general public).
4Sleeping
Dreamtime Sumbawa HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 4523 9696; http://dreamtimesumbawa.com; Jl Pasir Putih; dm 55,000Rp, d with/without air-con 300,000/200,000Rp; aW)
The ultimate surf-bum crash-pad with a curtained-off dorm and cosy patio-facing rooms. Dreamtime is set a block back from the beach in the heart of the village, and staff are extremely knowledgeable about the nearby waves. Fast fibre-optic wi-fi is a plus.
oMerdeka HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0822 4741 7866; www.merdekahouse.com; Jl Raya Balas; r 350,000Rp; W)
Wow! What a view you will have if you end a hard day in the waves at this hilltop guesthouse, whose communal lounge and kitchen overlook two stunning bays. The six rooms are spacious and spotless. Perks include an honesty bar, free snorkels, cheap board rentals (50,000Rp per day) and a helpful area guide typed up by the friendly Aussie owners.
8Information
Banks and ATMs, such as BNI (%0372-635146; Jl Raya Maluk; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr), cluster most thickly along Jl Raya Maluk, the road through the centre of town.
8Getting There & Away
Two daily buses leave Terminal Maluk, north of town across from the entrance to the PT AMNT mine (look for the big gates and massive parking area), for Sumbawa Besar (40,000Rp, four hours). Departures are typically at 6am and 2pm, but you need to arrive well in advance to book a seat. This bus can also drop you off in Taliwang (25,000Rp, one hour).
Most people arrive here on the fast ferry from Lombok. From Benete Harbour, just north of Maluk, the ferry (135,000Rp, 90 minutes) goes to/from Labuhan Lombok two times daily. From Lombok, boats depart at 10am and 4.45pm. The return from Benete Harbour departs at 8am and 2.45pm. Transporting surf boards costs 25,000Rp extra.
Rantung Beach & Around
%0372 / Pop 8180
Rantung Beach is a laid-back place with a classic surfer feel. Its secluded and majestic bay is framed by 100m-high headlands and most everything is within easy walking distance. It’s part of the spread-out settlement of Sekongkang, which also includes two other superb beaches with a handful of surf breaks. The best range of accommodation and restaurants is to be found along the coast a few kilometres from the centre of town, especially at Rantung Beach.
The water is crystal clear and waves roll in year-round at Yo Yo’s, a right break at the north end of the bay. Hook, which breaks at the edge of the northern bluff, is also a terrific right. The next bay down is where you’ll find Tropical, another phenomenal beach (named for the nearby resort) and home to great left and right breaks that beginners will enjoy. Immediately south of Tropical is Remo’s Left, a solid A-frame.
North of Rantung is Pantai Lawar, a tree-shaded stretch of white sand on a turquoise lagoon sheltered by volcanic bluffs draped in jungle. When the surf is flat, come here to swim and snorkel.
4Sleeping & Eating
Beachside guesthouses and bungalows cater to the surfing set and most guesthouses also feed their guests.
Santai Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0878 6393 5758; Rantung Beach; r without/with bathroom 150,000/200,000Rp, with air-con & breakfast 300,000Rp; aW)
The choice budget spot in the area offers a collection of 12 spacious, well-tended tiled rooms. Those with private bathroom have sensational sea views, which anyone can enjoy from the thatched restaurant (dishes 30,000Rp to 60,000Rp), where there’s also a pool table to gather around for post-surf beers. Book ahead: when that swell hits it’s full for weeks.
Yo Yo’s HotelRESORT$$
(%0878 6695 0576; yoyoshotel@yahoo.co.id; Rantung Beach; s/d from 200,000/350,000Rp; aW)
A vast beachfront complex with a range of 15 rooms. Deluxe rooms are quite large and well appointed with wood furnishings. Standard rooms are smaller and a bit worn. Monkeys wander the grounds and a large two-storey bar (with cocktails!) and cafe (dishes 30,000Rp to 80,000Rp) overlooks the surf.
Rantung Beach Bar & CottagesBUNGALOW$$
(%0819 1700 7481; Rantung Beach; r from 200,000Rp, cottages from 400,000Rp; aW)
The mining crowd has enjoyed more than a few sundowners at the vast and open beachside cafe here (dishes 40,000Rp to 60,000Rp); the food always delivers – we love the crunchy chips and huge burgers. Five refined, spacious cottages have queen beds and leafy private decks with sea views. Behind them is a row of cheaper rooms.
Lisa’s GardenINTERNATIONAL$
(%0822 3650 7340; Rantung Beach; mains 20,000-65,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)
Those craving things like French press coffee, avocado toast, salads, granola or burritos – all exceptionally rare on Sumbawa – will love this cheap open-air eatery, which has an upstairs deck overlooking the waves.
8Getting There & Away
The tourist-oriented minibuses of Sekongkang Trans (%0853 3324 1931; www.facebook.com/sekongkangtrans; Jl Raya Sekongkang) leave every day at 7am and 7pm for the six-hour journey to Mataram via the Poto Tano ferry (120,000Rp). The air-conditioned bus can pick up in Maluk and Jereweh (15 and 30 minutes after departing from Sekongkang) if contacted in advance. Departures from Mataram to Sekongkang are also at 7am and 7pm.
Sekongkang Trans is the only bus that travels all the way to Sekongkang. At all other times you’ll need to charter an ojek (around 20,000Rp) to get here from Maluk, the nearest town on the public-bus network.
Sumbawa Besar
%0371 / Pop 56,340
Sumbawa Besar, often shortened to ‘Sumbawa’, is the principal market town of the island’s west. It’s leafy, devoutly Muslim (oversupply of karaoke bars notwithstanding) and runs on the bushels of beans, rice and corn cultivated on the outskirts. It’s a pleasant enough place for those transiting to Pulau Moyo, but there’s not much to see here aside from the old palace and a lively morning market. Most travellers simply consider this town a respite while journeying along the Trans-Sumbawa Hwy.
1Sights
Dalam LokaPALACE
(Sultan’s Palace; Jl Dalam Loka 1; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am & 1.30-5pm Sat & Sun) 
F
Originally built over 200 years ago for Sultan Mohammad Jalaluddin III, the remains of the Dalam Loka, a once-imposing structure that covers an entire city block, are in fair condition and are still used for political events. You can wander the grounds and scurry over the creaking floorboards inside to see old photos of the royal family, antique parasols and carriages.
4Sleeping & Eating
Samawa Transit HotelHOTEL$$
(%0371-21754; Jl Garuda 41; s/d from 400,000/420,000Rp; aW)
Conveniently located across the main road and to the left as you emerge from the airport is this low-rise, caramel-toned compound. Its rooms are spacious and spotless, with high ceilings, cheery bathroom tiles, flatscreen TVs, hot water and decent beds. VIP rooms are larger, quieter and have private balconies.
oCipta Sari BakeryBAKERY$
(%0371-21496; Jl Hasanuddin 47; snacks from 4000Rp; h8am-7pm)
Don’t pass through town without a stop at this excellent bakery on a shady stretch of the main drag. Pause for coffee or a cold drink, and be sure to stock up for your journey: the various baked goods, pastries and savoury treats are the best you’ll find between here and Bima.
Aneka Rasa JayaCHINESE$
(%0371-21291; Jl Hasanuddin 14; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-3pm & 6-9.30pm)
Clean and popular, this Chinese seafood house plates tender fish fillets, prawns, squid, crab and scallops in oyster, Szechuan or sweet-and-sour sauce. The soto kepiting (crab soup) is good, as is anything with noodles.
8Information
There are numerous banks and ATMs all along Jl Hasanuddin.
Kantor Imigrasi (Immigration Office; Jl Garuda 41; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) It’ll take at least two days to extend your visa here.
Klinik Surya Medika Sumbawa (%0371-262 0023; Jl Hasanuddin 20A; h24hr) Hospital with 24-hour care.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Muhammad Kaharuddin III Airport is very close to the centre. Garuda and Wings Air fly direct to Lombok daily, though more routes are planned when the airport expands in 2020.
BUS
Sumbawa Besar’s main long-distance bus station is Terminal Sumur Payung (Jl Lintas Sumbawa), 5.5km northwest of town on the highway. Destinations served include the following:
Bima 100,000Rp, seven hours, several daily
Mataram 90,000Rp (including ferry ticket), six hours, several daily
Poto Tano 35,000Rp, 2½ hours, hourly from 8am to midnight
8Getting Around
It’s easy to walk into town from the airport – just turn to your right as you exit the terminal; the walk is less than 1km. Alternatively, you can arrange transport with local guesthouses.
Bemos cost 5000Rp for trips anywhere around town.
WORTH A TRIP
SNORKEL SPOTS
There is decent coral in the waters just off Labuhan Aji. A better spot that’s also accessible from the shore and has larger schools of fish is Crocodile Head. To reach it, hike or bike 5km south of Labuhan Aji on the path toward the Amanwana Resort until you see a sign indicating the turn-off.
Just northeast of Pulau Moyo is small Pulau Satonda, which also has good beaches and tremendous snorkelling. Maleo Moyo can arrange the two-hour boat ride to visit (2,000,000Rp).
Pulau Moyo
Moyo is a gently arcing crescent of jungled volcanic rock that floats atop the azure seas north of Sumbawa Besar. About half the size of Singapore, it’s home to just 2000 people spread across six small villages. The largest, Labuhan Aji, is an authentic Sumbawanese town that has only recently opened up to tourism. It lies on a pebbly beach (better suited for snorkelling than swimming) and is the kind of throw-back island paradise where electricity only works in the evening and locals are still amused to see foreigners.
The majority of the island, and its rich reefs, form a nature reserve laced with trails, dripping with waterfalls and offering some of the best diving west of Komodo. Loggerhead and green turtles hatch on the beaches, long-tail macaques patrol the canopy, and wild pigs, barking deer and a diverse bird population all call Moyo home.
1Sights
Mata Jitu WaterfallWATERFALL
Pulau Moyo’s most famous attraction is this fairytale waterfall, whose cascading pools of turquoise water have entranced at least once princess (locals call it Lady Diana Waterfall because she visited in 1993). A sign in Labuhan Aji says it’s 7km away, but this is a marketing ploy to get you on an ojek (100,000Rp). It’s actually a relatively easy 4km hike (bring your swimsuit!).
If you go on your own, you’ll need to pay a 25,000Rp ‘island tax’ to your hotel in advance.
2Activities
Hiking and snorkelling are the big draws here. You can also charter local boats for trips to offshore dive sites or stunning beaches like Tanjung Pasir in the south of the island.
Maleo MoyoDIVING
(DJL Diving; %0812 8472 9535; http://scubadivemoyo.com; Labuhan Aji; shore/boat dive 400,000/600,000K, discover scuba 800,000Rp; h8am-5pm)
The only PADI dive shop in Labuhan Aji with two comfortable boats, one of which is often used to take snorkellers to offshore reefs like Takat Sagele and Sengalo. Sign up for daily leisure diving or multi-day dive safaris.
Maleo Moyo also has a row of bright and airy bungalows (400,000Rp to 600,000Rp) and a divers’ crash pad with dorm beds (100,000Rp) and basic rooms (200,000Rp).
4Sleeping
Labuhan Aji is the island’s main village and the only place set up for tourism. You’ll find basic homestays and midrange bungalows along its beach, while the island’s long-running luxe resort lies in a secluded spot 7km to the south.
Most places only have electricity from 6pm to 6am.
Most accommodation along the beach have on-site restaurants, and there are three simple warungs hidden away along the laneways of Labuhan Aji.
Devi HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0853 3993 2815; Labuhan Aji; r without bathroom 100,000Rp, with full board 200,000Rp)
oSunset Moyo BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0852 0517 1191; http://sunsetmoyobungalows.com; Labuhan Aji; bungalow d/tr 650,000/750,000Rp)
Everything is just so at this appropriately named getaway, whose terraced front deck is like a mini-amphitheatre for dreamy sunsets. The five bungalows are full of playful touches, like tree-trunk sinks and outdoor showers, while the overwater swing out front was surely built for Instagram travel porn. The friendly owners can arrange bikes, hikes, snorkelling and massages.
Maryan MoyoBUNGALOW$$
(www.facebook.com/moyobungalows; Labuhan Aji; bungalow with/without air-con 600,000/500,000Rp; a)
Sleep to the sounds of lapping waves in one of five stilted bungalows, each with a sturdy wooden frame, stone-tiled bathroom and covered deck facing the sea. Umbrellas and sun loungers on the beach out front add to the soporific vibe.
oAmanwana ResortRESORT$$$
(%0371-22233; www.amanresorts.com; all-inclusive jungle/ocean-view tents from US$910/1090; a
iW)
On Moyo’s western side, 7km south of Labuhan Aji, Amanwana is the ultimate island hideaway. Guests stay in lavish permanent tents with antique wood furnishings, king-sized beds and air-con, but nature still rules here. The resort is built around diving, hiking and mountain biking. Guests arrive by private seaplane or helicopter from Bali, or from mainland Sumbawa on an Amanwana boat.
8Getting There & Away
Public boats depart daily at noon from Sumbawa Besar for the two-hour journey to Labuhan Aji (75,000Rp). The normal departure point is Muara Kali, but when tides are low they will leave from Pantai Goa on the other side of town. The return trip from Labuhan Aji is at 7am each morning.
The seas around Moyo get turbulent from December to March and boat captains understandably may refuse to risk a journey. They may also refuse to depart on the rare occasion when there are not enough passengers, in which case those in a rush may have to charter an entire boat for as much as 2,000,000Rp.
A popular alternative to the Sumbawa Besar route for those climbing Gunung Tambora is to arrange a boat over to the east side of the island, followed by a land transfer to Labuhan Aji. Rik Stoetman at Visit Tambora can make all the necessary arrangements.
East Sumbawa
%0373
Twisted into a shape all its own, and linguistically and culturally distinct from the west, the eastern half of Sumbawa sees the most visitors thanks to accessible year-round surf near Hu’u village. Adventurous souls may also want to tackle majestic Gunung Tambora, a mountain that changed the world.
Gunung Tambora
%0373
Looming over central Sumbawa is the 2722m volcano Gunung Tambora. Its peak was obliterated during the epic eruption of April 1815. Two hundred years later much of the mountain was declared a national park.
Today from the summit you’ll have spectacular views of the 6km-wide caldera, which contains a two-coloured lake, and endless ocean vistas that stretch as far as Gunung Rinjani (Lombok). A basic climb to the crater rim takes at least two days; if you want to venture down into the spectacular crater – one of the world’s deepest – add another three days.
The base for ascents is the remote village of Pancasila near the town of Calabai on the western slope; here you can organise climbs. Contacts to organise climbs include Pak Saiful (%0859 3703 0848, 0823 4069 3138; Pancasila) and Rik Stoetman (Rik Stoetman; %0813 5337 0951; https://visittambora.com; near Pancasila). Both can rent rooms (from 150,000Rp to 300,000Rp), and handle transport and logistical issues.
A two-day guided trek up Gunung Tambora should cost about 2,000,000Rp per person for groups of three or more, including guides, porters, camping equipment, meals and accommodation in Pancasila on either end. Also included is the 150,000Rp park entrance fee.
8Getting There & Away
The road along the peninsula from the Trans-Sumbawa Hwy to Calabai is much improved. You can hire a private taxi from Bima Airport for 1,300,000Rp, or hop on a very crowded bus from Bima’s Terminal Dara (70,000Rp, five hours, 6am and 3pm daily) to Calabai. From Calabai take an ojek (30,000Rp, 20 minutes) to Pancasila.
THE YEAR WITHOUT SUMMER
After a few days of tremors the top blew off Gunung Tambora on 10 April 1815 in what is the most powerful eruption in modern history. Tens of thousands of Sumbawans were killed, molten rock was sent more than 40km into the sky, and the explosion was heard 2000km away (by comparison, the 1873 eruption of Krakatoa was one-tenth the size).
In the months and years that followed, weather was affected worldwide as the cloud of ash blotted out the sun. In Europe 1816 came to be known as ‘the year without summer’. Crops failed, temperatures plummeted, disease spread and tens of thousands died across the globe. Historical evidence is everywhere, including in the works of JMW Turner, whose paintings from the period feature shocking orange colours in the dim, ash-filled skies.
Two books vividly illustrate how Tambora’s eruption changed the planet: Tambora by Gillen D’Arcy Wood and Tambora: Travels to Sumbawa and the Mountain that Changed the World by Derek Pugh.
Pantai Lakey
%0373
Pantai Lakey, a gentle crescent of golden sand, is where Sumbawa’s tourist pulse beats, thanks to seven world-class surf breaks that curl and crash in one massive bay, and a string of modest beach guesthouses, all linked by a sandy path studded with bars. While there’s an agreeable beach-bum ambience, Lakey isn’t as polished as surf towns on neighboring islands to the west, and non-surfers may find little to hold their attention.
Hu’u is a small, poor, and very friendly fishing village, 3km north of Lakey. Neat and shady, suffused with the scent of drying fish and blessed with breathtaking pink sunsets, it’s the nearest public-transport node to Lakey.
The area is the centre of a push to increase tourism on Sumbawa. New roads mean you can now easily drive east from Hu’u, and north to Bima via Parado, enjoying some superb sea views along the way.
2Activities
This is one of Indonesia’s best surfing destinations, blessed with almost-guaranteed surf. Lakey Peak and Lakey Pipe are the best-known waves and are within paddling distance of the various hotels and guesthouses. You’ll need to rent a motorbike or hire an ojek to get to Nungas, Cobblestone and Nangadoro. Periscope is 150m from the sand at the far north end of the bay near Maci Point, which is another good spot. When the swell gets really big, there’s a beach break at Hu’u as well.
Most surfers share the cost of a boat (from 800,000Rp, maximum five people) to get to the breaks and back. Waves can be very good (and very big) year-round, but the most consistent swell arrives between June and August.
Inexperienced surfers should be cautious. Waves break over a shallow reef, and serious accidents do happen, especially when the tide’s out.
From August to October the wind gusts, which turns Pantai Lakey into Indonesia’s best kitesurfing destination – it’s regarded as one of the 10 best in the world. Kites descend on Lakey Pipe and Nungas when it’s pumping.
Joey Barrel’s Board ShopSURFING
(Jl Raya Hu’u; h7am-6pm)
Out on the main drag, this small shop offers ding repairs, board rental (per day from 50,000Rp), surfing supplies and board sales. It’s open when the owner isn’t at the breaks.
4Sleeping
There are plenty of decent-value digs strung along Pantai Lakey. A paved path skirts the beach, linking guesthouses.
Any LestariBUNGALOW$
(%0813 3982 3018; Jl Rya Hu’u; r 150,000-350,000Rp; aW)
A vast bungalow complex that stretches back from the beach. All bungalows are spacious with tiled rooms and private patios, but some are in better shape than others. The most expensive rooms have Siberian air-con, hot water and satellite TV. The waterfront bar and restaurant, Blue Lagoon, draws a steady crowd.
oRock Pool Home StayHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 3733 6856; http://rockpoolhomestay.com; Jl Pantai Nunggas Lakey; r 400,000-500,000Rp; aW)
Set amid tropical gardens, the five rooms at Rock Pool are some of the nicest on Pantai Lakey, with air-con, decent wi-fi and fabulous views across the breaks towards the rolling hills of Sumbawa. The open-sided restaurant Ali’s Bar, a great place to enjoy offshore breezes and beers after a day’s surfing, serves Indonesian and Western food from 7am to 10pm.
Vivi’s Lakey Peak HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0823 4049 9139; www.lakeypeakhomestay.com; Jl Pantai Lakey; s/d/tr 250,000/350,000/450,000Rp; aW)
Set along a little lane between the beach and the main road, this five-room compound offers the area’s warmest welcome, with Vivian and her Sumbawanese-Australian family your generous hosts. Rooms are modern and large with nice furnishings, the yard is shaded by banana trees and there’s a sociable, open-sided cafe. The cooking is excellent!
Fishing trips can also be organised.
oLakey Peak HavenHOTEL$$$
(%0821 4413 6320; www.lakeypeakhaven.com; Jl Raya Hu’u; s/d from US$70/80; aWs)
Removed from the action on a hill above town, this highly manicured Bali-style ‘haven’ is easily the best accommodation option in town with two-storey surf ‘shacks’ overlooking a chequered pool deck and the distant breaks. Reserve in advance as it doesn’t accept walk-ups.
5Eating & Drinking
Most guesthouses have their own cafe-bars, and there are simple refreshment stalls and warungs along the beachfront path.
Mamat WarungINDONESIAN$
(Jl Raya Hu’u; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
While it lacks a sea view, this simple warung out on the main road serves up Lakey’s cheapest and most authentic Indonesian fare, including sate, gado gado (a peanut-sauced salad) and plenty of tempe dishes for vegetarians.
WreckINTERNATIONAL$$
(Jl Raya Hu’u; mains 50,000-65,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
A beached Sumbawanese boat, its prow pointing to Lakey’s famous breaks, has been turned into a breezy, open-sided restaurant that does surprisingly good ‘Mexican’ food, alongside Indonesian and Western standards. If the local interpretation of quesadillas, fajitas and burritos doesn’t appeal, try the spicy fish in banana leaves, or simply sink a beer and some balls around the threadbare pool table.
Fatmah’sINTERNATIONAL$$
(off Jl Raya Hu’u; mains 30,000-75,000Rp; h7am-9pm; W)
Once humble, Fatmah’s has taken a slight turn upmarket in recent years. Tables sit in a raised bleached-wood house overlooking the beach where you can watch the sun set or the kitesurfers swoop, as you tuck into juices, ayam lalapan (fried chicken and sambal), or Western fare like pastas and Aussie meat pies … all to the beat of EDM.
Balumba ShopCOFFEE
(h7am-6pm)
This hole-in-the-wall shop on the beach walk in front of the Balumba Hotel offers the best coffees in East Sumbawa. All beans come from farms on the slopes of nearby Gunung Tambora and are manually pressed through a Rok Presso machine for silky espressos or creamy soy lattes.
8Information
The nearest ATMs are 37km north in Dompu.
8Getting There & Away
From Dompu there are two daily (slow) buses as far as Hu’u (25,000Rp, 1½ hours), where you can hire an ojek (20,000Rp) to Pantai Lakey. Ojeks to/from Dompu on the Trans-Sumbawa Hwy start at 80,000Rp.
Try doing this with a surfboard and you’ll see why so many people take a taxi from Bima Airport (800,000Rp for up to four people). Buses to/from Bima cost 35,000Rp (one daily, usually at noon or 1pm). It’s typically easier to travel via the more frequent Dompu route.
8Getting Around
The ojek cartel is omnipresent in Lakey; rates to the breaks range from 30,000Rp to 80,000Rp. It’s generally cheaper to rent your own motorbike from any shop on the main road (from 50,000Rp per day), all of which have special board racks.
Bima
%0374 / Pop 149,000
East Sumbawa’s largest metropolitan centre is a conservative Islamic place. It has few sights, the streets can be traffic-choked, the architecture is charmless and crumbling, and the vibe is unappealing after dark. It’s only worth overnighting here if it suits your flight plans. If you’re heading to Pantai Lakey, there’s no need to stop, and if you want a morning ferry to Flores, you’re better off staying in Sape.
1Sights
Museum Asi MbojoMUSEUM
(Jl Sultan Ibrahim; 3000Rp; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
The old Sultan’s Palace, former home of Bima’s rulers, still reflects the colonial style of a 1927 renovation. Past the large verandahs, the interior is home to a grab bag of dusty curios, including a royal crown, battle flags and weapons. A modest wooden building next to the palace has an evocative and traditional look. The weedy grounds are large; the area outside the northern fence is a favourite night-time spot for prostitutes.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Lila GrahaHOTEL$
(%0374-42740; Jl Lombok 20; r with fan/air-con from 200,000/300,000Rp; aW)
The dim, tiled Lila Graha is a decent, central option if you must overnight in Bima. Its four storeys hold a wide range of rooms. Ground-floor suite rooms are newest and nicest, but there’s wi-fi in the lobby only.
oMarina HotelHOTEL$$
(%0374-42072; www.marinabima.com; Jl Sultan Kaharuddin 4; r 420,000-890,000Rp; aW)
Bima’s best sleep is very central. The 52 rooms in this four-storey building (there’s an elevator) are bright and airy, with large flat-screen TVs, glassed-in showers and plush bed linens. All rooms get plenty of light, though some have more windows than others. There are sweeping views from the common lounge.
Pasar MalamMARKET$
(map Google map; Night Market; Jl Sultan Ibrahaim; h6-11pm)
Dine cheaply at the night market, located in and around the soccer field. There’s fish and chicken sate, mie goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice), bakso (meatball soup) and various deep-fried treats, including bananas aplenty.
3Entertainment
Pacuan KudaHORSE RACING
(Desa Panda)
Horse racing is held at least four times a year, in April or May, July, August and December, at the Desa Panda horse stadium, 12km west of town on the Trans-Sumbawa Hwy. There’s a large grandstand, a gaggle of warungs and plenty of cheering as horses, ridden by children between the ages of nine and 15, thunder around a dusty track.
8Information
There are plenty of banks and ATMs in Bima, especially along the town’s main drag, Jl Sultan Hasanuddin.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Bima’s Sultan Muhammad Salahudin Airport (BMU; Jl Salahudin) is the main airport for travellers to Pantai Lakey. During peak season (June to August), when flights from Labuan Bajo (Flores) to Bali are often fully booked, you can make the 10-hour ferry and bus trip from Labuan Bajo to Bima, then find a seat on a less-packed Bima–Bali flight. Services include the following:
Denpasar (Bali) Nam Air, Wings Air; 1¼ hours; daily
Mataram (Lombok) Wings Air, Nam Air, Garuda; one hour, daily
Makassar (Sulawesi) Wings Air; 1¼ hours, daily
The airport sits amid salt flats, 12km west of the centre, on the way to Dompu and the road to Pantai Lakey. You can walk out to the main road and catch a passing bus. Alternatively, taxis meet arrivals, charging 120,000Rp to Bima or 800,000Rp to Pantai Lakey.
BOAT
Pelni boats travel from Bima to Waingapu on Sumba (three times monthly), Ende on Flores (four times monthly), Kupang on West Timor (three times monthly), Benoa on Bali (seven times monthly) and Sulawesi (five times monthly). Book with the Pelni office (%0374-42046; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Kesatria 2; h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Fri) in central Bima.
BUS
Buses leave from Terminal Dara (Jl Sultan Kaharuddin), a 10-minute walk south along Jl Sultan Kaharuddin from the centre of town. Routes include the following:
Dompu 25,000Rp, two hours, almost hourly from 7am to 4pm
Mataram 250,000Rp, 11 to 14 hours, two daily
Sape 30,000Rp, two hours, almost hourly from 7am to 4pm
Sumbawa Besar 80,000Rp, six hours, several daily (mostly before noon)
Sape
%0374 / Pop 53,000
Sape’s got a tumbledown port-town vibe, perfumed with the conspicuous scent of drying cuttlefish. The outskirts are quilted in rice fields backed by jungled hills, while benhur (horse-drawn carts) and early morning commerce whirl past the colourful wooden stilt homes in town. If you’re catching a morning ferry, consider staying at Losmen Mutiara (%0374-71337; Jl Pelabuhan Sape; r 70,000-160,000Rp; aW). Right next to the port gates and the last bus stop, it’s a decent enough place with 20 rooms spread across two floors. Across the street is Rumah Makan Citra Minang (Jl Pelabuhan Sape; mains 30,000Rp; h8am-9pm), whose smiling chefs bring the finest and spiciest Padang dishes to life.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
The ferry port is 4km east of Sape’s diminutive centre. Regular breakdowns and rough seas disrupt ferry services – always double-check the latest schedules in Bima and Sape. Ferries from Sape include the following:
Labuan Bajo (Flores) 60,000Rp, six hours, one daily
Waikelo (Sumba) 69,000Rp, eight hours, two weekly
BUS
Express buses with service to Lombok (250,000Rp, 12 to 15 hours) meet arriving ferries.
Buses leave almost every hour for Bima (30,000Rp, two hours), where you can catch local buses to other Sumbawa destinations.
Taxi drivers may claim that buses have stopped running and you must charter their vehicle to Bima (350,000Rp, 1½ hours); this is usually not true.
Komodo & Rinca Islands
Parked neatly between Sumbawa and Flores, the islands of Komodo and Rinca are the major draw cards of Unesco-recognised Komodo National Park. The islands’ jagged hills, carpeted with savannah and fringed with mangroves, are home to prehistoric Komodo dragons or ora, the world’s largest lizards.
Padar Island, conveniently positioned between Komodo and Rinca, is a highly prized photography perch, gifting those who climb the stairs an outlook of three perfect bays that transition from aquamarine to sapphire blue.
These isolated islands are surrounded by some of Indonesia’s most tempestuous waters. Warm and cold currents converge and breed nutritious thermal climes and rip tides that attract large schools of pelagics, including dolphins, sharks, manta rays and blue whales. The coral here is mostly pristine. With some of the best diving in the world, it’s no surprise that liveaboards ply these waters between April and September when diving is at its finest.
Komodo
POP 3,267
Spectacular Komodo, its steep hillsides jade in the short wet season (December to March) and frazzled by sun to a rusty tan that makes its crystal waters pop the rest of the year, is the largest island in Komodo National Park. A succession of peninsulas spread east, each providing a different perspective, with some fringed in pink sand due to red coral offshore.
On its south coast is the entrance to Loh Liang and the PHKA office, where boats dock and guided walks and treks start. The fishing village of Kampung Komodo is a 30-minute boat ride south of Loh Liang. It’s a friendly, stilted Bugis village filled with goats, chickens and children. The locals, said to be descendants of convicts exiled to the island by Sumbawanese Sultans in the 19th century, are used to seeing tourists. You can spend your time simply absorbing village life and gazing out over the water.
2Activities
Walking & Trekking
The 150,000Rp entrance fee at Komodo includes a choice of three walks: the short walk (1.5km, 45 minutes), which includes a stop at an artificial waterhole that attracts diminutive local deer, wild boar and of course ora; the medium walk (2km, 1½ hours), which includes a hill with sweeping views and a chance to see colourful cockatoos; and the long walk (4km, two hours), which includes the features of the shorter hikes and gets you much further from the peak-season crowds.
You can also negotiate for adventure treks (from 500,000Rp for up to five people). These treks are up to 10km long and can last four or more hours, so bring plenty of water. There are two paths. One climbs the 538m-high Gunung Ara, with expansive views from the top. The other, Poreng Valley, has an out-in-the-wild feeling. Watch for wildlife on your way over Bukit Randolph, which passes a memorial to 79-year-old Randolph Von Reding who disappeared on Komodo in 1974, before heading on to Loh Sebita. It’s challenging, the sea views are spectacular, you’ll likely see a dragon or two – as well as buffalo, deer, wild boar and Komodo’s rich bird life. Organise your boat to pick you up in Loh Sebita so you don’t have to retrace your steps.
Water Sports
Almost everybody who visits Komodo hires a boat in Labuan Bajo or visits as part of a liveaboard itinerary. Day trips always offer snorkelling (gear included) as part of the itinerary as well as a stop at an island beach. Many snorkel around the small island of Pulau Lasa near Kampung Komodo, and just off the pink sands of Pantai Merah (Red Beach; although it’s usually referred to as the Pink Beach).
People who stay on Komodo can arrange for kayaking and sunrise dolphin tours.
VISITING KOMODO NATIONAL PARK
Established in 1980 and declared a World Heritage Site and a Man and the Biosphere Reserve by Unesco in 1986, Komodo National Park (www.komodonationalpark.org) covers 1817 sq km. Within that area are Komodo, Rinca and Padar Islands; a constellation of smaller islands and an incomparably rich marine ecosystem.
Fees for visitors add up quickly:
A Landing fee per person for Komodo and Rinca islands: 150,000Rp (Monday to Friday); 225,000Rp (weekends and holidays)
A Boat fee: 100,000Rp
A Ranger-guided walk fee: 80,000Rp (maximum four people)
A Tourism tax: 100,000Rp
A Wildlife observation fee: 10,000Rp
A Hiking or trekking fee: 5,000Rp
A Diving fee per person per day: 25,000Rp
A Snorkelling fee per person per day: 15,000Rp
Note that these fees are often changing, with constant talk of increases. Tour operators (including dive shops) usually collect the fees in advance. If not, you pay them in the park offices on Komodo or Rinca, or at Labuan Bajo’s PHKA Information Booth.
At both Komodo and Rinca you have a choice of walks, from short to long, which you organise with a ranger when you arrive at the relevant island’s park office. Longer walks demand a higher price.
4Sleeping & Eating
In the village of Kampung Komodo, you’ll find a few very basic homestays that give you a bed and some meals. Either turn up and let locals guide you to one (rooms cost from about 200,000Rp per night) or arrange your stay in advance with Usman Ranger (%0812 3956 6140). English is often minimal, so get your ranger to work out the nitty gritty before you bed down for the night.
Any place you stay will provide you with simple meals, but be sure to confirm this with your ranger. Memorising the Bahasa Indonesia word for eat and food, makan, can get you a long way.
Komodo GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 3956 6140; Loh Liang; r from 400,000Rp)
Located on Komodo Island and just five-minutes’ walk from the dock, this six-room guesthouse has a long, covered porch that’s elevated and offers ocean views. Rooms are basic but have fans (there’s electricity from 6pm to midnight) and you can organise meals through park rangers. Reserve when you arrive on the island or ahead by phone.
KOMODO DRAGONS
The ora (Komodo dragon) is a monitor lizard, albeit one on steroids. Growing up to 3m in length and weighing up to 150kg, they are an awesome sight and must-see during any visit to Komodo National Park. Standard day tours tend to arrive in the middle of the day, when ora lounge about lethargically. They’re much more active at dawn and dusk, but even when resting, they can be as fearsome as their looks imply. Park rangers keep them from attacking tourists; random encounters are a bad idea. Some dragon details:
A They are omnivorous, and enjoy eating their young. Juvenile dragons live in trees to avoid becoming a meal for adults.
A Ora often rise up on their hind legs just before attacking, and the tail can deliver well-aimed blows that knock down their prey.
A Long thought to be a type of bacteria, venom (located in glands between the dragons’ teeth) is their secret weapon. One bite from a dragon leads to septic infections that inevitably kill the victim. The venom is loaded with toxins that promote bleeding and the huge lizard lopes along after its victim waiting for it to die, usually within a week.
A Komodos can eat up to 80% of their body weight in a single sitting. They will then retire for up to a month to digest the massive meal.
A On Komodo, ora have been seen chasing deer into the ocean and then waiting on shore while the hapless mammal tries to return. Eventually the exhausted animal staggers onto the beach, where the dragon inflicts its ultimately deadly bite.
A There is no accepted reason why the dragons are only found in this small area of Indonesia, although it’s thought that their ancestors came from Australia four million years ago.
A It’s estimated that there are up to 5000 in the wild today, but there are concerns that only a few hundred or so are egg-laying females.
A In 2006, two female dragons kept isolated from other dragons their entire lives laid fertilised eggs, which hatched successfully. The process, parthenogenesis, is incredibly rare and occurs when an unfertilised egg develops into an embryo without being fertilised by a sperm.
8Getting There & Away
Competition for Komodo day trips from Labuan Bajo is fierce. Join one of the many tours hawked by operators in town, which cost from 500,000Rp per person, including a light lunch and stops for beach fun and snorkelling. As it takes 3½ hours to reach Komodo, day trips leave around 5.30am and return around 6pm. You can also charter a local boat from 2,000,000Rp and pick your itinerary, which is a great deal when split between four to six people. Just be sure to make the proper safety checks before committing. Overnight charters leave around 7am and start at 2,000,000Rp per person.
A speedboat costing from 1,500,000Rp per person will cover the distance to Komodo in under an hour and arrive at hotspots before the crowds. Charter your own from around 7,000,000Rp for a full day out, which can include stops at both Komodo and Rinca. The many liveaboard schemes almost always include a stop at Komodo at some point, as do the private boats making the run between Flores, and Lombok and Bali.
Rinca
Rinca is slightly smaller than nearby Komodo, closer to Labuan Bajo, and easily done in a day trip. It packs a lot into a small space and for many it’s a more convenient but just as worthy destination as Komodo. The island combines mangroves, light forest, sun-drenched hills and – of course – Komodo dragons. Due to its smaller size and a tendency for ora to hang around Loh Buaya’s camp kitchen, you’re more likely to see the beasts on Rinca than Komodo.
2Activities
From the boat dock it’s a 10-minute walk across tidal flats, home to long-tail macaques and wild water buffalo, to the PHKA station camp at Loh Buaya. Three guided walks are included in the 80,000Rp admission fee: the short walk (500m, one hour) takes in mangroves and some ora nesting sites; the medium walk (1.5km, 90 minutes) is ‘just right’ as it includes the shady lowlands plus a trip up a hillside where the views across the arid landscape to achingly turquoise waters and pearly white specks of beach are spectacular; and the long walk (4km, three hours), which takes in all the island’s attractions.
Besides dragons, you may see tiny Timor deer, snakes, monkeys, wild boar and an array of birds. There are supposedly no set dragon-feeding places on Rinca, but you’re almost guaranteed to see the massive beasts near the camp kitchen at Loh Buaya, so you do the maths.
4Sleeping & Eating
You can stay in a spare room in the ranger’s dorm (from 300,000Rp), but there’s little reason to as the site lacks charm and Labuan Bajo is nearby.
There is a simple daytime cafe at the ranger station where you can stock up on water, have a snack and enjoy a cold beer while watching grazing deer nervously eyeing ora.
8Getting There & Away
Day trips to Rinca start at 400,000Rp and the choices are many. Chartering a speedboat to Rinca costs around 5,000,000Rp from Labuan Bajo and takes less than an hour each way. Boats usually return via small island beaches and snorkelling spots.
At Rinca, boats dock at the sheltered lagoon at Loh Kima, which at busy times may have over two dozen wooden vessels tied together.