Aceh
Sumatra’s northernmost province, Aceh is both a fiercely proud and prosperous region. It’s blessed with rainforests that feature incredible biodiversity, as well as pristine islands popular with beachgoers, divers and surfers alike. However, over the years, this western tip of the Indonesian archipelago has grabbed headlines for all the wrong reasons. Earthquakes, tsunamis, civil war and sharia law are the main associations people have with Sumatra’s northernmost state. With the reconstruction from the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami long completed, post-tsunami Aceh is slowly healing the social wounds incurred by the natural disaster and the previous civil war. Still, while the guns have been laid down and a degree of autonomy has been granted to the province, there are occasional blips on the road to peace, and a prevailing belief in the rest of Sumatra that the people of Aceh are keen to spread their conservative Islamic ways across the whole country.
History
In the days of sailing ships, Aceh’s important strategic position along the spice-trade route was a crucial factor in contributing to its wealth and importance, bringing an influx of both traders and immigrants. Aceh was also Islam’s entry to the archipelago, while the capital, Banda Aceh, was a centre of Islamic learning and a gateway for Mecca-bound pilgrims.
Though Aceh’s power began to decline towards the end of the 17th century, the province remained independent of the Dutch until war was declared in 1871. It was 35 years before the fighting stopped and the last of the sultans, Tuanku Muhamat Dawot, surrendered.
In 1951 the Indonesian government incorporated Aceh’s territory into the province of North Sumatra. The prominent Islamic Party was angered at being lumped together with the Christian Bataks, and proclaimed Aceh an independent Islamic Republic in September 1953. Prolonged conflict ensued, and in 1959 the government was forced to give Aceh ‘special district’ status, granting a high degree of autonomy in religious, cultural and educational matters.
The formation of Gerakan Aceh Merdeka (GAM; Free Aceh Movement) in December 1976 and the subsequent struggle with the Indonesian military led to nearly 30 years of deaths, torture, and disappearances occurring on an almost daily basis, perpetuated by both sides against the civilian population, with thousands displaced.
At the turn of the millennium there was a brief ceasefire and Aceh was granted the right to implement sharia law, followed by an escalation of conflict, the imposition of martial law and a full-scale military assault on the separatists, which was brought to an abrupt end by the 2004 tsunami. The province remains largely peaceful, in spite of occasional bouts of unrest courtesy of a GAM rebel splinter group that remains disaffected with former colleagues who now run the province.
Banda Aceh
%0651 / Pop 223,500
Banda Aceh is a surprisingly relaxed and charming provincial capital that more than deserves a day or two en route to Pulau Weh.
Given that Banda Aceh bore the brunt of the 2004 tsunami, with 61,000 killed here, and that much of the city had to be rebuilt, it’s little wonder that it looks well maintained and affluent, with broad streets, pavements and parks. The magnificent central mosque – Indonesia’s best – still stands as the city’s crowning glory, along with the poignant Tsunami Museum.
Banda Aceh is still a fiercely religious city and its ornate mosques are at the centre of daily life. Respectfully dressed visitors shouldn’t face any hassles and most travellers find the Acehnese to be friendly and extremely hospitable.
1Sights
oMesjid Raya BaiturrahmanMOSQUE
(map Google map; entry by donation; 
h5am-10pm)
With its brilliant-white walls, ebony-black domes and towering minaret, this 19th-century mosque is a dazzling sight. The best time to visit is during Friday-afternoon prayers, when the entire building and courtyard are filled with people. A recent addition to the tiled courtyard is a series of retractable shades, offering all-weather protection for worshippers. A headscarf is required for women.
The first section of the mosque was built by the Dutch in 1879 as a conciliatory gesture towards the Acehnese after the original one burnt down. Two more domes – one on either side of the first – were added by the Dutch in 1936, and another two by the Indonesian government in 1957. The mosque survived intact after the 2004 earthquake and tsunami, a sign interpreted by many residents as direct intervention by the Divine. During this time the mosque served as an unofficial crisis centre for survivors, and bodies awaiting identification were laid on the public square in front of the mosque.
GunonganHISTORIC BUILDING
(Jl Teuku Umar; h8am-6pm) 
F
All that remains of Aceh’s powerful sultanates today is on view at Gunongan. Built by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607–36) as a gift for his Malay princess wife, it was intended as a private playground and bathing place. The building consists of an intriguing series of blinding white peaks with narrow stairways and a walkway leading to ridges, which represent the hills of the princess’ native land. Ask around for someone to unlock the gate for you.
Museum Negeri Banda AcehMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0651-23144; www.museum.acehprov.go.id; Jl Alauddin Mahmudsyah 12; 5000Rp; h8am-noon & 2-4.15pm Tue-Sun)
This state museum displays Acehnese weaponry, household furnishings, ceremonial costumes, everyday clothing, gold jewellery, calligraphy and some magnificently carved recong (Acehnese daggers) and swords. It also covers the history of Islam in Aceh, Dutch history and local freedom fighters, and there’s even a section on coffee.
In the same complex is the Rumah Aceh (map Google map; h9am-4pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am-noon & 2-4pm Fri) F, a fine example of traditional Acehnese architecture, built without nails and held together with cord and pegs.
KherkhofCEMETERY
(map Google map; Dutch Cemetery; Jl Teuku Umar; h8am-6pm) F
The Kherkhof is the last resting place of more than 2000 Dutch and Indonesian soldiers who died fighting the Acehnese. The entrance is around 50m west of the Tsunami Museum. Tablets set into the walls by the entrance gate are inscribed with the names of the dead soldiers and the plain white crosses in the eastern part of the cemetery were replacements for the gravestones destroyed by the 2004 tsunami.
4Sleeping
There’s not much in the way of budget accommodation in Banda, but there are some very reasonable and central midrange places in the market area around Jl Khairil Anwar.
oLinda’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0823 6436 4130; www.lindas-homestay.blogspot.com; Jl Mata Lorong Rahmat 3, Lambneu Barat; r incl breakfast 350,000-600,000Rp; 
a
W)
Staying in the home of hospitable Linda, 4km out of town, is a good way to experience local life in a family home and to learn about Acehnese culture. Many travellers rave about the hospitality and the home cooking (classes available); the Gayo filter coffee is also top notch. The house is spotless and decorated in traditional Islamic motifs and ornate furniture.
Hotel SeiHOTEL$$
(%0651-21866; Jl Tanoh Abe 71, Kampung Mulia; d incl breakfast 425,000-900,000Rp, ste 1,050,000Rp; 
paW)
This lemon-yellow hotel down a quiet side street north of the centre is one of Banda Aceh’s swankier, but overpriced, options. Expect compact rooms with reliable wi-fi, the arctic chill of air-con, a pleasant respite from the outdoors, as well as friendly service and a seemingly deserted but actually decent restaurant.
Hotel MedanHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0651-21501; www.hotel-medan.com; Jl Ahmad Yani 17; r incl breakfast 300,000-560,000Rp; a
iW)
One of Banda Aceh’s most established midrange options, Hotel Medan has a good central location in the happening market area north of the river. Rooms are clean and comfortable, though quite dated, with a retro Soviet feel.
Padé HotelHOTEL$$$
(%0651-49999; www.thepade.com; Jl Soekarno-Hatta 1; r/ste incl breakfast from 800,000/1,500,000Rp; aW
s)
Banda Aceh’s most luxurious sleeping option is this classy hotel that features a sumptuous traditional Islamic design and date palms that channel the Middle East. It’s essentially a business hotel, however, with quality rooms, professional staff and an attractive infinity pool surrounded by frangipani trees.
REMEMBERING THE 2004 TSUNAMI
Few people in Aceh will ever forget 26 December 2004. An immense tsunami swept inland, killing 170,000 people and altering the physical and emotional landscape of the province forever. In spite of the extensive rebuilding that has removed most signs of physical damage, stark reminders of the devastation remain in the form of many memorials that both honour those killed and allow visitors to comprehend the full horror of what transpired. For many residents of the province the tsunami is a sensitive subject, as many lost loved ones. However, if interest is expressed in a delicate manner, no offence is taken.
Tsunami Museum (map Google map; www.museumtsunami.blogspot.com; Jl Iskandar Muda 3; h9am-4pm Sat-Thu, 9am-noon & 2-4pm Fri) F A visit to this beautifully designed, hard-hitting museum commences with a walk through a dark, dripping tunnel that symbolises the tsunami waves. This is followed by a powerful set of images of the devastation projected from tombstone-like receptacles, and a circular chamber engraved with the names of the lost. Upstairs a very graphic short film is shown, along with photographs of loss, displacement, rebuilding, hopefulness and reunited families. Other displays explain how earthquakes and tsunamis are created and how Aceh’s landscape was altered by the disaster (look out for the ‘before’ and ‘after’ scale models of the city).
Lampulo Boat (off Jl Matahari) The most famous of the tsunami sights is the fishing boat resting on the house in Lampulo village, about 2km north of the city and 1km from where it was docked. It’s said that 59 villagers survived the tsunami by climbing into the stuck boat.
PLTD Apung I (Jl Harapan; h9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Sat-Thu, 2-5pm Fri) F This 2500-tonne power-generator vessel was carried almost 5km inland by the tsunami wave. It’s now preserved as a memorial about 2km southwest of the city centre.
Mass Graves There are four mass graves around Banda Aceh where the dead were buried post-tsunami. The largest site is Siron Tsunami Memorial Park, located on the road to the airport, where 46,000 unidentified bodies were buried. Near Uleh-leh port, Meuraxa mass grave (Jl Sultan Iskandar Muda) is the most visited site. Other grave sites include those at the Lhok Nga Tsunami Monument and Darusalam. Families who wish to mourn their unlocated loved ones choose one of the mass graves based on geographic proximity; they have no other evidence of where to offer their prayers.
5Eating & Drinking
Because of sharia law, alcohol is not openly available, with the exception of a few restaurants and hotels catering to Westerners, which discreetly serve beer and wine.
Rumah Makan Spesifik AcehINDONESIAN$
(%0852 7777 5812; Jl T Hasan Dek; meals around 35,000Rp; h11am-10pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-noon & 2-10pm Fri)
An excellent introduction to Acehnese cuisine, with such delights as asam keeng (hot and sour soup), udang goreng kunyit (turmeric shrimp) and curried fish.
Mie RazaliNOODLES$
(map Google map; Jl Panglima Polem; mains 10,000-30,000Rp; h11am-11am)
The best place in Banda Aceh to sample mie aceh, Acehnese spicy noodles served with chicken or seafood. Razali gets busy in the evenings so you may have to wait for a table.
Ice Cream Gunung SaljuICE CREAM$
(map Google map; Jl Kartini; ice cream from 8000Rp; hnoon-10pm Sat-Thu, 2-10pm Fri)
This downtown place is a local institution notable for its delicious homemade ice cream. It has a heap of flavours, including local offerings such as avocado, durian and jackfruit, as well as all the usual suspects. It’s a pretty local set-up with no English, and it also sells Indonesia dishes.
Country SteakhouseINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map; %0651-24213; off Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin 45B; mains 25,000-120,000Rp; h5-10pm; aW)
Well hidden down an alley out of view is this cosy, wood-panelled restaurant that has a speakeasy feel, and specialises in Western food and cold beers. New Zealand steaks and lamb chops are the specialities, as well as fish and chips, burgers, sandwiches, pastas and Indonesian standards. They can procure pricey Australian red wine with a day’s notice. Credit cards accepted.
Warung Kopi SolongCAFE
(Jl Teuku Iskandar 13-14; h6am-11.30pm; W)
Banda Aceh’s most famous coffee house has been doing business since 1974. It’s an excellent place to try kopi sanger (coffee with condensed milk) – strained through a sock! You can buy 250g and 500g bags of finely ground, locally grown arabica coffee. Mie aceh (Acehnese noodles) and other dishes and snacks are available. It’s 2.5km east of the centre; take a becak.
8Information
MONEY
There are lots of ATMs around town, mainly on Jl Panglima Polem and Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin.
OPENING HOURS
If you’re in town on a Friday be aware that all museums, restaurants, cafes and shops close from noon to 2pm for prayer time.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Regional Tourist Office (Dinas Parawisata; %0821 6644 1925; www.acehtourism.travel; Jl Chik Kuta Karang 3; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) On the 1st floor of a government building; the staff here led by Rahmadani (Danny) are exceptionally friendly and sometimes have free copies of an excellent guidebook to the province.
Otherwise the Banda Aceh tourism website (www.bandaacehtourism.com) has good info.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Iskandar Muda International Airport (www.sultaniskandarmuda-airport.co.id) is 16km southeast of the centre. A 30-day visa on arrival is available for most nationalities.
BOAT
Express boats and car ferries serving Pulau Weh depart at least twice daily from the port at Uleh-leh, 5km west of Banda Aceh’s city centre. Express boats depart at 10am and 4pm daily, with an additional 8am service from Friday to Sunday. Car ferries depart at 11am and 4pm Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday, and at 2pm Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
TRANSPORT FROM BANDA ACEH
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Garuda | 6 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) | AirAsia | 1-2 daily |
| Kutacane | Susi Air | 2 weekly |
| Medan | Citilink, Lion Air | 4 daily |
| Penang (Malaysia) | Firefly | 4 weekly |
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bukit Lawang | 350,000 | 16 | daily |
| Ketambe/Kutacane | 250,000 | 15-18 | daily |
| Medan | 150,000-330,000 | 12 | hourly, around 9am-10pm |
| Singkil | 220,000 | 14 | 9pm |
8Getting Around
Taxis from the airport charge 100,000Rp to the city centre and 140,000Rp to Uleh-leh port.
Online taxi companies Grab and Go-Jek both operate in Banda Aceh, and are the cheapest way to get around.
Labi-labi are the local minibuses and cost 2500Rp for trips around town, though sights in the central area can easily be covered on foot or by becak. The most useful services are the blue labi-labi for Uleh-leh (10,000Rp, 35 minutes) and the white one to Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk (16,000Rp). The labi-labi terminal (Jl Diponegoro; h7am-5pm) is just north of the Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman.
From the bus terminal, a becak into town will cost around 30,000Rp. A becak around town should cost between 15,000Rp and 30,000Rp, depending on your destination. A becak to Uleh-leh from the city centre is 40,000Rp and a taxi 70,000Rp.
For a reliable ride or a city tour aboard a deluxe, wi-fi-enabled becak, call English-speaking Little John (%0813 6023 1339).
Pulau Weh
%0652 / Pop 32,300
Tiny Pulau Weh (also known as Sabang) has been drawing travellers – mostly divers and in-the-know backpackers – for at least a couple of decades now but its charm hasn’t faded: it’s too remote for that. Ferrying out to this tiny island is an adventure, and exploring its beaches, jungle and clear waters, or just chilling in a hammock at your budget bungalow, are the rewards for travellers who’ve journeyed up through the turbulent greater mainland below. Snorkellers and divers bubble through the great walls of swaying sea fans, deep canyons and rock pinnacles, ogling the dazzling kaleidoscope of marine life, including manta rays and whale sharks. Both figuratively and geographically, Pulau Weh is the cherry on top for many visitors to Sumatra.
2Activities
Most travellers come to Pulau Weh for the diving and snorkelling, which is considered some of the best in the Indian Ocean. On an average day, you’re likely to spot morays, lionfish, schools of tuna, barracuda, jacks and giant trevally, along with eagle rays, manta and stingrays. During plankton blooms, whale sharks come to graze. Unlike at other dive sites, the coral fields take a back seat to the sea life and landscapes. The macro diving is also impressive, and there’s a WWII wreck for experienced divers. There are close to 20 dive sites around the island, mostly in and around Iboih and Gapang, which is where dive operators are based. To respect the local religious customs there’s no diving from sunset on Thursday to 2pm Friday.
Snorkelling is also a big highlight, and you will see an impressive diversity of colourful fish, and often turtles as well. Gear can be hired almost anywhere for around 30,000Rp per day.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The small Maimun Saleh Airport, 2km south of Sabang, has connections to Medan with Garuda Indonesia and Wings four times a week. Cancellations do occur, so factor this into your travel plans if you have a connecting flight to catch.
BOAT
Slow car ferries and express passenger ferries ply the route between Uleh-leh, 5km northwest of Banda Aceh on the mainland, and Balohan port, around 8km south of Sabang on Pulau Weh. You should get to the port at least 45 minutes before departure to get a ticket. Ferry service is weather dependent.
The ‘slow ferry’ (economy/air-con 27,000/45,000Rp, two hours) leaves Pulau Weh daily at 8am and 2.30pm, returning from Uleh-leh on the mainland at 8am and 2pm, and sometimes 11am. On Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, there’s an additional service from Pulau Weh at 1.30pm.
The Express Ferry (%0651-43791, 0652-332 4800; economy/business 80,000/100,000Rp) runs from Pulau Weh to Uleh-leh at 8am and 2.30pm daily (45 minutes to one hour), with an additional service at 4pm Friday to Sunday in season (usually July through August). Services from the mainland to Pulau Weh depart at 10am and 4pm, with an additional weekend service at 10am.
8Getting Around
There is no regular public bus service on the island, but from the Balohan port, a handful of labi-labi (minibuses) meet the boats and head to Sabang (25,000Rp, 15 minutes), and Gapang/Iboih (60,000Rp, 40 minutes). Becaks charge around 80,000Rp from the port to Gapang, 100,000Rp to Iboih and 50,000Rp to Sumur Tiga, near Sabang.
Many lodgings rent out motorbikes for around 100,000Rp per day.
A taxi from Sumur Tiga to the airport is 100,000Rp; from Gapang/Iboih it’s around 150,000Rp.
ISLAND TOUR BY MOTORBIKE
Pulau Weh is a delight to explore on a rented scooter thanks to its relatively compact size, light traffic and picturesque scenery.
If you start from Ipoih and follow the road 8km north through the forest reserve, you’ll reach Kilometer Nol, where a fairly tacky, run-down 44m-high globe-shaped monument marks the northernmost tip of Indonesia. If you want a more natural outlook, walk down the hill to the boardwalk for peaceful ocean views. Head back south until you almost reach Gapang; the westbound turnoff leads 1km to Llong Angen, a rocky beach ideal for sunset watching, then a further 2km to Gua Sarang (Swallow Cave; 5000Rp), a picturesque cove for swimming and snorkelling.
Head back and go southeast past Gapang for 8km; just before you reach the village of Pria Laot, a road leads 1km towards Pria Lot Falls. It’s a five-minute scramble over rocks to reach the beautiful swimming hole at the falls. East past Pria Laot, you hit a T-junction; take the southbound branch and pass between Gunung Kulan, the island’s highest volcano, on your right, and Gunung Merapi (Berapi; Jaboi), a semi-active volcano, with its steaming sulphurous fumaroles puffing steam from its rocky landscape.
Head east along the coast. You’ll pass some mediocre hot springs near Keuneukai village, which also has a nice beach – however, it’s a conservative village so women will need to cover up if swimming. Carry on to Balohan port and take the less frequented road north across the island, towards Sabang, passing Danau Anak Laut, a serene freshwater lake that supplies the island with its drinking water. Near Sabang, it’s worth seeking out the old Merbabu cemetery, where there are Dutch, French, Javanese, Acehnese and Japanese laid to rest. Further south is a Japanese WWII bunker, one of several remnants from the occupation of Pulau Weh from 1942 to 1945.
If you don’t want to motorbike around the island alone, you can arrange a becak for a day-long tour for about 350,000Rp.
Sabang
Pulau Weh’s main township (signposted Kota or Kota Sabang) is a mix of traditional fishing village, big-town bustle and old colonial-era villas. During Dutch rule, Sabang was a major coal and water depot for steamships. The town enjoyed a brief revival in the 1970s as a duty-free port, but these days it’s a bit more relaxed, and its inhabitants generally fish or make rattan furniture. The main lures for travellers are the nearby beaches, which are the best on Pulau Weh.
4Sleeping
oFreddiesLODGE$$
(%0813 602 55001; www.santai-sabang.com; Pantai Sumur Tiga; r 375,000-470,000Rp; aW)
This delightful cluster of breezy rooms sits above Pulau Weh’s nicest stretch of white-sand beach, which has a small coral reef. It’s perfect for those content with snorkelling off the strategically placed pontoon and swinging in a hammock. Freddie, the South African owner, is responsible both for the delicious, varied buffet dinners (65,000Rp) and for the genuine feeling of camaraderie among the guests.
Its restaurant is also a highlight, with pizza, seafood barbecues, Indonesian dishes and daily buffet (65,000Rp). There’s also a good range of alcohol (beer, spirits, wine), which you’re likely to get served in a coffee mug, speakeasy-style!
oCasa NemoBUNGALOW$$
(%0813 6299 9942; www.casanemo.com; Pantai Sumur Tiga; r with shared bathroom 150,000Rp, bungalow 390,000-500,000Rp, 2-bedroom apt from 700,000Rp; aW)
There’s a fabulous range of rooms and cottages cascading down the cliff side at this Mediterranean-feeling resort. Although it caters to all travellers (the ‘backpacker’ rooms are a bargain), there’s a feeling of upmarket exclusivity, from the beautiful waterfront deck restaurant to the day spa. Great for a splurge.
Its waterside restaurant and bar (open 10am to 11pm) is equally luxurious and has a great selection of dishes, from pizzas to Acehnese fish curry (50,000Rp).
Gapang
Occupying a sandy cove, with a great reef for snorkelling just offshore, Gapang is an appealing stretch of beach lined with shack restaurants, simple guesthouses and Pulau Weh’s best dive outfits. Although quieter than Iboih, there’s a developing scene here with the quality dive outfits drawing plenty of travellers.
2Activities
Lumba Lumba Diving CentreDIVING
(%0811 682 787; www.lumbalumba.com; Gapang Beach; discover dive 685,000Rp, open-water course 4,500,000Rp; hdive shop 8am-8pm)
This long-established and professional Dutch-run diving centre has been introducing divers to Pulau Weh’s underwater world for decades now. Owners Ton and Marjan Egbers maintain a helpful website with detailed descriptions of dives and need-to-know information. Highly recommended.
Monster DiversDIVING
(%0813 1453 2827, 0812 6960 6857; www.monsterdivers.com; Gapang Beach; discover scuba dive 650,000Rp, 1/2 dives 390,000/780,000Rp)
A popular, professional diving outfit with Spanish owners and local instructors, with a big range of boat and shore dives, PADI courses and night dives. Accommodation is on the way, and they’ve just opened up their Catalonian-influenced Monster restaurant next door.
Bubble AddictDIVING
(%0852 9690 4984; www.bubble-addict.com; Gapang Beach)
This French-owned dive operator, located at the far end of Gapang Beach, has an enthusiastic team of local and foreign instructors. They offer Discover dives (590,000Rp), open-water courses (3,950,000Rp), shore dives (180,000Rp) and fun dives (from 370,000Rp), as well night dives and specialty courses. They have lodgings out the back (per night diver/non-diver 350,000/400,000Rp), with more on the way.
Flying Elephant YogaYOGA
(%0852 9690 4984; www.flyingelephantyoga.com; Gapang Beach; h6.30pm Mon-Sat)
Run by enthusiastic yogi Tomomi, Flying Elephant’s yoga space is upstairs from the dive school Bubble Addict, with evening one-hour Vinyasa sessions held on a pay-what-you-want arrangement (or free if you’re diving here). There are also private one-hour lessons (150,000Rp) and day packages, such as its blissful combos of diving, yoga, meditation and massage (500,000Rp per day).
Blue Addiction Freedive WehDIVING
(%0813 5628 1527; www.facebook.com/BAFreediveWeh; Gapang Beach)
This French-run dive outfit opened in mid-2018. Here you can learn the art of free diving, enabling you to plunge the ocean depths without the burden of heavy diving apparatus.
4Sleeping
oLumba LumbaRESORT$$
(%0811 682 787; www.lumbalumba.com; Gapang Beach; d with shared/private bathroom 200,000/300,000Rp, bungalow 500,000Rp; iW)
Behind the diving centre of the same name, Lumba Lumba offers some of the best-quality accommodation in Gapang. Wood-decked cottages have tiled rooms, fans and Western toilets, while simpler budget rooms have shared bathrooms. Accommodation is mostly for divers, but Lumba Lumba will happily rent out any spare rooms.
5Eating
MonsterSPANISH$
(Gapang Beach; mains 35,000-55,000Rp; h8am-5pm)
A part of the Spanish-run Monster Divers dive shop, this relaxed beachside cafe does Catalonian-influenced dishes such as yellowfin-tuna burgers with brava sauce (spicy aioli), escalivada (smoky grilled vegetables) and creama catalana (egg custard pudding), along with salads and other international mains. Look out for their themed nights, when they cook up anything from paella to pizzas.
Tipsy Toby CafeCAFE$
(Gapang Beach; mains from 30,000Rp; h8.30am-6pm)
Sharing space with Bubble Addict is this lively hang-out in Gapang Beach where divers gather in the evenings to socialise over cold beers, bagel burgers, naan pizza, coffee and smoothies. There are weekly barbecues as well. It stays open later on Wednesday and Saturday evenings. Upstairs is Flying Elephant Yoga.
BarracudaINDONESIAN$
(Gapang Beach; mains 15,000-60,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W)
The lime-green furniture and decking will draw your eye to this breezy alfresco restaurant in the middle of Gapang Beach, but it’s the Acehnese seafood curries, fresh food (such as burgers and wraps), smoothies and apple pie that keep people coming back.
8Getting There & Away
The turnoff for Gapang is 2km before Iboih; it’s 80,000Rp by becak from the harbour, or around 180,000Rp by taxi. Sometimes labi-labi (minibuses) meet the boats, which cost 60,000Rp to Gapang.
Iboih
Iboih (ee-boh) is Pulau Weh’s backpacker central: old-school budget bungalows are draped along a rocky headland plunging down to iridescent waters that seem too good to be true. A jungle path leads past the village well and up and over a small hill to the bungalow strip. The village itself is lined with shops and snorkel-hire places, but this is still a conservative area, so change out of swimwear when going beyond the bungalow strip.
2Activities
Rubiah Tirta DiversDIVING
(%0823 6000 2100, 0652-332 4555; www.rubiahdivers.com; Iboih Beach; 1/3/5 dives with equipment 320,000/900,000/1,400,000Rp)
This local-run PADI outfit in Iboih village is the longest-running dive operation on Pulau Weh and gets consistently good feedback from travellers. It also offers open-water courses and Discover Scuba (500,000Rp) and shore dives.
4Sleeping
oOlalaHUT$
(%0852 6060 7311, 0852 332 4199; eka.enk@gmail.com; r with shared bathroom 100,000Rp, with private bathroom 200,000-250,000Rp; W)
Offering cheap and cheerful huts on stilts, Olala caters both to shoestringers (with basic huts with shared bathrooms) and those who want their own bathroom and fan. The best huts are over the water. The restaurant is a popular traveller hang-out and one of the best on the jungle strip. There’s good snorkelling straight out front.
Yulia’sBUNGALOW$$
(%0821 6856 4383; r with shared bathroom 100,000-150,000Rp, with private bathroom 200,000-650,000Rp; aW)
One of the last resorts at the end of the bungalow strip, Yulia’s has grown and blossomed into Iboih’s most upmarket accommodation. Like tropical Swiss chalets, the quality, spacious timber bungalows are scattered along the hillside and down to the water’s edge. The best have air-con, hot water, sea views and breakfast included. The overwater restaurant is a charm.
Iboih InnBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 699 1659, 0811 841 570; www.iboihinn.com; Iboih Beach; r incl breakfast from 325,000Rp, with air-con 475,000-675,000Rp; aW)
The top huts at this relatively upmarket option come with hot-water showers, air-con and fab sea views, and there are cheaper wooden shacks back up the hill. The loungey overwater restaurant with floating jetty is a great place to while away an afternoon, and is a good launching point for snorkelling.
5Eating
oBixio CafeITALIAN$
(%0821 6430 1071, 0821 6616 7091; www.bixiowehbungalows.com; Long Beach; pasta 45,000Rp; hnoon-9pm Wed-Mon; W)
Who would have thought Sumatra’s best Italian food was hiding in a remote corner of Pulau Weh? Sit by the lapping waves and dig into Luca and Eva’s wonderful, authentic and freshly made pastas and gnocchi with fresh traditional sauces – but leave room for the divine tiramisu.
It’s in Long Beach, about 3km northwest from Iboih.
There are also three appealing bungalows (300,000Rp) here for rent if you wish to linger longer.
Dee Dee’s KitchenINTERNATIONAL$
(mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W
v)
On the same strip of beach as Rubiah Tirta Divers, Dee Dee cooks up an eclectic selection of dishes, from excellent homemade chapati with guacamole to pasta dishes, crispy tempe tortilla wraps, tofu burgers and mie aceh (Acehnese noodles).
Nasaka CoffeeCAFE$
(Iboih Beach; mains 25,000-55,000Rp; h8.30am-midnight; W)
Bringing a taste of contemporary cafe style to the beach is this classy waterfront joint that does the best coffee on Pulau Weh. Choose from manual brews served in a beaker, traditional Aceh-style kopi sanger or a long black with coconut milk. The food’s good too, including the charcoal-bun fish burger with lime mayo that you can enjoy looking out to the turquoise sea.
8Getting There & Away
A becak here from the harbour or the airport is around 100,000Rp.
Aceh’s West Coast
Rounding the northwestern tip of Sumatra’s finger of land is a string of little villages and endless beaches backed by densely forested hills. Most of the houses along the coast are identical in design, having been rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami. For the time being, the appealing west coast attracts the more intrepid travellers heading overland between Singkil and Banda Aceh, as well as surfers and kitesurfers in search of wind and waves.
Lhok Nga & Lampu’uk
Comprehensively rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami, the coastal weekend spots in Lampu’uk are beginning to attract more surfers and kitesurfers as the word spreads. Surfing season is from October to April, though there are also waves at the beach in front of the cement factory the rest of the year, which is also when there are favourable winds for kitesurfing.
Lhok Nga has decent waves too, and it’s becoming particularly popular with kitesurfers. Given it’s only 14km from Banda Aceh it’s an easy day trip as well.
4Sleeping
Eddie’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0813 6031 9126; www.eddieshomestay.com; Lhok Nga; s with shared bathroom & fan 100,000Rp, d with shared bathroom & air-con 200,000Rp, r with private bathroom & air-con 300,000-500,000Rp, deluxe r 2,000,000Rp; aW)
Eddie’s gets consistently good feedback from the surfing crowd both for its laid-back vibe and its comfy rooms (the cheaper ones share facilities). There’s also a new fancy option, a deluxe room that has a jacuzzi and large TV.
Joel’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0813 7528 7765; Lampu’uk; r 150,000-500,000Rp)
Joel’s Bungalows is the area’s legendary surfer hang-out. It’s a bit rundown these days, however, and in need of maintenance, but its bungalows and rooms (which come in an array of sizes and styles) all overlook the beach. Its on-site restaurant does wood-fired pizza and cold beers.
Though the waves right here are not suitable for surfing (and can be dangerous for swimming), there is easy access to two left-hand breaks and one right-hander. Further south along the main beach at Lampu’uk, Joel’s Bungalows 2 is ideal for kitesurfers.
Seabreeze Kite ClubBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 6077 5499; www.seabreezekiteclub.com/indonesia/aceh; Lhok Nga; s/d incl meals with fan US$30/50, with air-con US$40/65)
This American-managed guesthouse is a cool beachside hang-out that caters to those here kiteboarding (best from May to mid-October). A range of packages are available for all levels, and there’s equipment to rent (per hour US$30). All rooms have shared bathrooms, but are comfortable and clean, and there’s a great lounge and restaurant/bar area.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Saho CoffeeCOFFEE
(Lhok Nga; h8am-10pm)
This cool little coffee roaster by the beach serves A-grade Acehnese brews along with simple food items. It rents out surfboards too (per half-day 70,000Rp).
8Getting There & Away
Take labi-labi number ‘04’ (15,000Rp, 20 minutes) from the terminal just north of Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman in Banda Aceh for both Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk. A becak costs 50,000Rp to 80,000Rp and a taxi is around 100,000Rp to 150,000Rp; a taxi with Grab is about 60,000Rp.
Singkil
%0658 / Pop 46,800
Singkil is a remote, sleepy port town with welcoming locals at the mouth of Sungai Alas. It’s the departure point for island adventures to the Banyaks, Pulau Nias and Pulau Simeulue, but it’s worth lingering here for a day or two to explore the swampy surroundings, which are home to crocodiles, wild orang-utans and more.
Unusually for Indonesia, Singkil is very spread out and has no real centre.
2Activities
Swamp ToursBOATING
(per boat from 700,000Rp)
A rewarding day trip from Singkil involves taking a single-engine canoe up the Sungai Gedang, past two friendly waterfront villages and deeper into the great morass in search of wild orang-utans, monkeys, crocs and plenty of birdlife. Start out as early as possible to maximise your chances of seeing riverside wildlife. Book via Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PULAU SIMEULUE
The isolated island of Simeulue, about 150km west of Tapaktuan, is a rocky volcanic outcrop blanketed in rainforest and fringed with clove and coconut plantations. An increasing number of surfers make it out here (although wave quality is generally not considered to be as high as on some other offshore Sumatran islands – particularly since the 2004 tsunami), but non-surfing travellers are a rare breed indeed. This is a pity because the island holds decent potential for genuine, off-the-beaten-track adventure, and is relatively easy to get around, with the ring road around the island mostly accessible by local minibuses. It’s a fairly conservative Muslim society, so tourists need to dress moderately, ie wearing a shirt in villages, and swimwear other than bikinis if swimming on beaches outside the resorts.
There are ATMs but it’s advisable to bring lots of cash as they’re not to be relied upon.
Frazha Homestay (%0813 6015 2738; Alus Alus; per person incl meals & transport 350,000Rp) Run by Akil and his family, Frazha is a good choice for those looking to keep it local. Its two bungalows are in a coconut grove by a beach that’s good for swimming, making it a good choice for non-surfers. Motorbike rental is inclusive in the rates, and Dylan’s Right reef break is only a 15-minute drive away. They have a boat, too, for outlying waves.
Simeulue Surf Lodges (%0627-149553; www.simeulue-surflodges.com; per person incl meals from US$65; s) Centrally located in front of Dylan’s Right surf break is this Dutch-owned place with well-maintained thatched beach huts, a lovely natural plunge pool and sun deck overlooking the ocean. Rates include daily use of a motorcycle for exploring the island and nearby waves.
Moon Beach Resort (%0812 8868 4000; www.simeulue-resort.com; r incl meals & transport from AUD$120; aW) Set up by an Aussie builder who helped construct local villages following the 2004 tsnuami, these modernised bungalows are located halfway between the Peak and Dylan’s Right surf breaks. Rooms all have air-con, wi-fi and cable TV with live sport, making it a good choice for those seeking a bit of comfort in between catching waves. There’s a nice beach for non-surfers too.
Getting There & Away
Wings Air has a daily flight from Medan (one hour, from 850,000Rp) to Simeulue’s airport, which is located on the southwest of the island, a short drive from the surf camps. Be aware the baggage limit is only 10kg.
A ferry from Simeulue’s port town of Sinabang to Singkil (71,000Rp to 120,000Rp, 12 hours) leaves twice a week on Wednesday and Sunday at 7pm.
4Sleeping & Eating
oSapo Belen LodgeLODGE$
(%0813 6196 0997; Jl Bahari 55; d incl breakfast 150,000Rp)
An unexpected find in the gritty port town of Singkil is this attractive traditional house featuring a polished-wood interior, antiques and plenty of books. It’s by far the nicest place to stay here, with well-priced rooms that have mosquito nets, bathrooms and Acehenese coffee cakes for breakfast. It’s just off the main street, and a good place to meet fellow travellers to share boat costs.
RM BarokaINDONESIAN$
(meals 25,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
Cheap as chips and friendly to boot, this simple warung on the main street lets you load up on gargantuan portions of rice with fried chicken and fish sambal and more.
8Information
Mr Darmawan from Banyak Island Travel (%0821 6645 7040, 0813 7721 9667, 0813 6017 0808; dmawan_skl76@yahoo.com) is Singkil’s definitive source of local info.
There’s a BRI Bank with an ATM, however, it’s always best to bring extra cash in case it’s not working.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
At the time of research there were no flights to Singkil’s airport, but check with Susi Air (www.susiair.com) to see if it has resumed flights between Singkil and Medan on its 12-seater planes.
BOAT
From the port off the main street, overnight ferries depart on Wednesday and Sunday for Gunung Sitoli (52,000Rp, six hours) on Pulau Nias at 11pm. If you want a private cabin it’s possible to rent one from the crew for around 250,000Rp.
Ferries also head to Sinabang on Pulau Simeulue (71,000Rp to 120,000Rp, 12 hours) at 5pm on Monday and Thursday. Get to the port an hour before departure to secure a seat.
Local boats to Pulau Balai in the Banyaks depart from the jetty at the end of the main street.
BUS & CAR
There are daily minibuses from Singkil to various destinations. You can also charter a car to any destination; this is particularly worthwhile if you’re heading for Tuk Tuk on Danau Toba (1,200,000Rp, seven hours) since getting there by public transport requires three bus changes and takes at least 12 hours. Private cars to Medan cost 750,000Rp. Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel has great info on bus schedules and car bookings.
BUSES FROM SINGKIL
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Banda Aceh | 220,000-280,000 | 15 | daily at 2pm & 4pm |
| Kutacane (for Ketambe) | 180,000 | 10 | daily at 6pm |
| Medan | 130,000 | 10 | nightly at 8pm |
| Sibolga | 120,000 | 6 | daily at 8am |
Banyak Islands
If you’ve ever dreamt about having a tropical island entirely to yourself, complete with palm trees, powdery white beaches and crystal-clear waters, the Banyak Islands is a great place to fulfil your Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A cluster of 99 mostly uninhabited islands, the Banyak (Many) Islands are situated about 30km west of Singkil. Remote they might be, but they are now very much on the radar of paradise-seeking travellers and surfers. As well as having arguably the finest beaches in Sumatra and a handful of quality surf spots, the Banyaks feature Sumatra’s best snorkelling, with beautiful underwater forests of colourful coral (at least where there has been no past dynamite fishing).
Only two of the islands are properly inhabited: the town of Balai on Pulau Balai is the main entry point to the islands; low-key Haloban on Pulau Tuangku is the other main village.
1Sights
Pulau SikandangISLAND
This largish island with pristine beaches takes a couple of hours to walk around. It’s one of the most popular places to stay with several guesthouses set up here. Snorkelling is possible but there’s a steep drop-off near the shore off the main beach.
Pulau BangkaruISLAND
The second-largest of the Banyak Islands, Pulau Bangkaru is home to a turtle conservation project, so visits are strictly controlled and you’re only allowed on the island with a certified guide. At the time of research the conservation project is up in the air due to the demise of the previous management body; check what’s happening with Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel.
Pulau Bangkaru has pristine beaches, excellent surfing off the south coast and plenty of scope for jungle trekking.
Pulau TuangkuISLAND
Covered in dense jungle, Pulau Tuangku is the largest of the Banyak Islands. Surfers head to Ujung Lolok, the headland at the south of the island, complete with several world-class breaks. In the northern part of the island is Haloban, a friendly village; Suka Makmur, a Christian village, is further south. With a guide it’s possible to summit Gunung Tiusa (313m), for an epic view of the surrounding islands (five hours return), and visit a cave full of stalagmites.
Pulau Palambak BesarISLAND
Rather out of the way, this medium-sized island is covered in coconut trees, and has a couple of jungle paths you can walk and a gorgeous stretch of beach, though the snorkelling is not great. Here you’ll find the lovely Palambak Island Resort.
Pulau TailanaISLAND
The small island of Pulau Tailana is renowned for reefs that are waves of colour. The island has a popular guesthouse.
Pulau LamanISLAND
There’s good snorkelling between Pulau Laman and Pulau Laureh, with some remarkable growths of vivid blue coral.
Pulau AsokISLAND
A crescent-shaped, uninhabited island with pristine beaches on either side as well as excellent snorkelling.
Pulau Ragu-RaguISLAND
Offers some excellent snorkelling. Dugongs are sometimes sighted in the mornings off the island’s north shore.
Pulau BalaiISLAND
One of two inhabited islands in the Banyaks, connected to the mainland by frequent public boats. It has no attractions of its own, but has a mellow atmosphere, friendly locals, cheap losmen and restaurants, and is useful as a transfer point.
Pulau LambodongISLAND
Uninhabited small island with white sandy beach, popular with day trippers from neighbouring Banyak islands.
2Activities
Kayaking
Kayaking the calm, crystal-clear waters between dozens of idyllic islands is a great way to explore the Banyaks. With Rega and Anhar (%0821 6199 7974, 0852 7771 1108; kayak hire per day 150,000Rp), you can arrange anything from beginner routes to multiday challenges for experienced kayakers (around 350,000Rp per person per day for the latter).
Snorkelling & Diving
The reefs in the Banyaks teem with colourful fish and corals and there are fabulous snorkelling possibilities off almost any island. The visibility is excellent and most lodgings rent snorkelling masks. Standout islands for snorkelling include Pulau Asok and Pulau Pabisi.
Surfing
Many visitors to the Banyaks are surfers, and there are some world-class surf spots here off Pulau Tuangku and Pulau Bangkaru, as well as some more average waves. However, the line-up can get rather crowded, particularly around Ujung Lolok, with up to 30 surfers regularly fighting over one peak.
It’s mostly surfers who flock to Pulau Tuangku’s southernmost tip, Ujung Lolok. Many come on liveaboard surfing charter boats, while others rent a local fishing boat and live on it. However, there’s plenty of other accommodation available these days.
4Sleeping & Eating
You can live out your castaway fantasies by camping wild on one of the numerous uninhabited islands. Tents can be arranged through Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel; bring all your food and water with you – stock up in Singkil or Balai, or catch your own dinner!
Most bungalows have meals as part of their package stays, and normally include locally caught fish and other Indonesian staples.
4Pulai Balai
Homestay Lae KombihGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 9689 5929; Jl Iskandar Muda, Pulau Balai; r with shared/private bathroom & fan from 50,000/75,000Rp, with private bathroom & air-con 150,000Rp; a)
This guesthouse overlooks the water and has hot and stuffy rooms, but what do you expect at these prices? It also has passable air-con rooms. The owner is very friendly and speaks English. Opposite is his sister’s restaurant, Rumah Makan Lae Kombih, which does tasty local dishes; go for the fish curry.
4Pulau Palambak Basar
Palambak Island ResortBUNGALOW$
(%0812 608 1916, 0852 7501 7309; www.palambakislandresort.com; Pulau Palambak Besar; per person incl meals 250,000Rp)
The only accommodation on Pulau Palambak Besar is in these 10 lovely bungalows with shared bathrooms fronting a stunning beach. There’s a nice restaurant doing good food, plus plenty of books, board games and beers in the fridge. Jungle trekking in the island interior is possible, as well as snorkelling and kayaking. They can arrange transfers and speedboat pick-up from Singkil (1,600,000Rp).
4Pulau Tailana
Pondok TailanaBUNGALOW$
(%0822 7449 9207; www.tailana.webs.com; Pulau Tailana; r incl meals 250,000Rp)
Just the place for those wanting to keep things blissfully simple, Pondok Tailana is also a launching point for island-hopping, snorkelling and jungle trekking. Lodgings consist of seven basic beach huts with shared bathrooms and hammocks by the water. However, there are some maintenance issues and the food can be a mixed bag.
4Pulau Sikandang
oNina’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0852 7086 8591; www.banyak-island-bungalow.com; Pulau Sikandang; r 200,000Rp, house 800,000Rp; ai)
The Banyak hot spot for backpackers at the time of research, Nina’s comprises five spacious, thatched bungalows with hammocks swinging on shady porches. The beach is pristine and the water gin-clear. Helpful manager Rius takes good care of guests, and the food gets positive reviews. There’s also beer available.
Nina’s also has a fabulous beach house right on the water, full of rustic charm and with two bedrooms, small kitchen, solar power and Western bathroom.
4Pulau Tuangku
The southern tip of the island attracts almost exclusively a surfing crowd.
The main village of Haloban has one basic losmen (100,000Rp per person); what the locals lack in English-speaking skills they more than make up for with enthusiasm and friendliness.
Banyak Island LodgeLODGE$$$
(%in USA +1 904-669-3286; www.banyaksurfbungalows.com; Pulau Tuangku; per person incl meals & transport for 7 days US$1050; W)
The only land-based accommodation on Pulau Tuangku is this surf lodge situated in the so-called Bay of Plenty. Rates include transfers and full board. There are five fan-cooled bungalows with twin beds and mozzie nets overlooking Gunters and Camel Back waves out front. The lounge serves local and Western dishes to the accompaniment of surf chat.
Floating Surf HouseSURF CAMP$$$
(%0822 7214 4450; www.floatingsurfhouse.com; Pulau Tuangku; 10-night stay with fan/air-con US$1699/1899; aW)
Sitting in the calm waters of the Bay of Plenty, near Ujung Lolok and within easy reach of Dindos, Gunters and Lolok Point waves, this surf-camp-on-a-raft provides unique accommodation for those chasing the waves. Owned by local surfer Erwin, it has two basic, three-bed rooms for solo guests, two doubles and a stilt house.
8Getting There & Away
There are two ferries a week from Singkil to Balai (Tuesday 10am and Friday 2pm, 30,000Rp, 3½ to four hours), returning on Wednesday and Sunday at 2pm. Local boats depart Singkil for Balai (50,000Rp, three to five hours) and Haloban (75,000Rp, five to six hours) daily between 8am and noon (depending on the tides), returning in the afternoon. During the worst of the rough seas in October and November, boats may not run for days.
By far the most convenient – but expensive – way to reach the islands is to charter a speedboat. Destinations (and one-way costs) from Singkil: Balai (1,500,000Rp); Sikandang (1,600,000Rp); Palambak (1,600,000Rp); Tailana (1,800,000Rp); Ujung Lolok (2,100,000Rp).
However, if you can get the wooden boat to Balai or Haloban it’ll be much cheaper to arrange a speedboat onward to the islands; most lodgings can arrange speedboat pick-up.
Enquire in Balai about hiring a fishing boat (600,000Rp to 2,500,000Rp per day, depending on boat size, with all the rice and fish you can eat). Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel can also assist.
Gunung Leuser National Park
%0642
The Aceh section of Gunung Leuser National Park has slipped under the tourist radar for years, seeing only a trickle of visitors while the masses head to the more hyped Bukit Lawang. Its jungle is basically the same, minus the well-worn paths and tourists clambering about trying to spot semi-wild orang-utans. This is the place for a real jungle experience.
Unesco-listed Gunung Leuser National Park is one of the world’s most important and biologically diverse conservation areas. It is often described as a complete ecosystem laboratory because of the range of forest and species types.
Within the park’s boundaries live some of the planet’s most endangered and exotic species: tigers, rhinoceroses, elephants and orang-utans. Although the likelihood of seeing most of these celebrity animals is remote, you have a good chance of seeing orang-utans, and you can be sure of encountering plenty of other primates.
Gunung Leuser National Park’s habitats range from the swamp forests of the west coast to the dense lowland rainforests of the interior. Much of the area around Ketambe is virgin forest. Above 1500m, the permanent mist has created moss forests rich in epiphytes and orchids. Rare flora includes two members of the rafflesia family, Rafflesia acehensis and Rafflesia zippelnii, which are found along Sungai Alas.
More than 300 bird species have been recorded in the park, including the bizarre rhinoceros hornbill, the helmeted hornbill and woodpeckers.
The national park faces a great number of challenges. Poachers have virtually wiped out the crocodile population and have severely reduced the number of tigers and rhinoceroses. According to the Indonesian Forum for the Environment, over a fifth of the park has been adversely affected by illegal logging and road construction. A highly controversial road project called Ladia Galaska runs through the park, linking the east and west coasts of the province. Furthermore, during the civil conflict in Aceh, the jungle was a stronghold of GAM militants, and the national park saw fighting between GAM and Indonesian troops.
The park receives a lot of rain throughout the year, but rain showers tend to lessen in frequency and duration between December and March.
8Getting There & Away
While Bukit Lawang and Tangkahan are most accessible in terms of their proximity to Medan, Ketambe and Kedah are easily reachable if you’re travelling through North Sumatra or Aceh. Most visitors arrive via Kutacane by bus, a one-hour drive south of Ketambe, from where you can take a bus or ojek.
You can also fly to Kutacane from Banda Aceh, but this is on a tiny aircraft (and with only 10kg luggage allowed) and is not for the faint hearted. There are also flights to Blangkejeren, which is 30-minute drive from Kedah.
Otherwise there are long-distance buses from Banda Aceh that pass through the Gayo Highlands via Takengon and the interior of the national park. Kedah is located a two-hour drive from Ketambe, or 30 minutes from Blangkejeren.
Ketambe
One of the best places in Asia to spot orang-utans in the wild, Ketambe is in the heart of the Alas Valley, and is the main tourist centre of Gunung Leuser National Park. A handful of guesthouses are spread along the road through Ketambe, hemmed in between the river and the jungle. It’s one of the most chilled-out places in the north of Sumatra, and a few lazy days relaxing beside the river and partaking in some jungle hiking is likely to be a highlight of your Sumatran adventures.
Ketambe is one of the main access points to the park. Directly across the river is Ketambe Research Station, a world-renowned conservation research facility, which is off limits to tourists. Ketambe has a few basic shops and restaurants, but Kutacane, 43km away, is the closest town of any note and is the place to go for transport and ATMs.
2Activities
Permits to Gunung Leuser National Park (150,000Rp per day) can be arranged at guesthouses in Ketambe. Guides can also be hired from any guesthouse in Ketambe; ask other travellers for recommendations.
Rafting & Tubing
Rafting (half/full day around 800,000/1,000,000Rp) is a fun way to see the forest and keep cool at the same time. Most guesthouses can help organise this. Tubing can also be arranged for around 100,000Rp.
Hiking
For serious trekkers and jungle enthusiasts, the trekking around Ketambe (half day/full day/overnight 250,000/400,000/900,000Rp) offers a much more authentic experience than that near Bukit Lawang. Be prepared for extreme terrain, leeches and mosquitoes, and bring plenty of water. Guides can tailor a trip to specific requests. One of the more popular hikes is a three-day walk to some hot springs deep in the forest.
Gunung KemiriHIKING
At 3314m, this is the second-highest peak in Gunung Leuser National Park. The return trek takes five to six days, starting from the village of Gumpang, north of Ketambe. It takes in some of the park’s richest primate habitat, of orang-utans, macaques, siamangs and gibbons, and passes through tiger habitat as well.
Gunung LeuserHIKING
The park’s highest peak is, of course, Gunung Leuser (3404m). Only the physically fit should attempt the 12-day return trek to the summit (seven days up, five days down). The walk starts from the village of Angusan, northwest of Blangkejeren.
Bukit LawangHIKING
Starting one hour south of Kutacane, this five- to six-day trek through tough terrain passes over 20 river crossings; in the wet season it can take up to 10 days and can be a real slog. You have a good chance of seeing orang-utans and gibbons, and the trek passes through areas that elephants are known to inhabit.
You can arrange to have your luggage delivered to Bukit Lawang separately.
4Sleeping
oThousand Hills Guest HouseBUNGALOW$
(%0812 6417 6752; www.thousandhillsketambe.net; s/d/tr 100,000/150,000/200,000Rp)
The first Ketambe guesthouse you’ll come across if approaching from the south and the most charming of its accommodation options, this place consists of cute thatched bungalows hiding in beautiful garden and forest surrounds. The indomitable Joseph is full of advice and can organise jungle guides.
oFriendship GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 9688 3624; www.ketambe.com; Jl Blangkejeren Km32; r 50,000-100,000Rp; W)
This well-priced guesthouse has a beautiful riverside location and charming, colourful wooden bungalows equipped with Western toilets. The cheapest rooms are very basic. The main hang-out area is decked out with photos of travellers engaging in jungle stuff. Led by Ahmad, the staff are friendly, and it’s a good place to arrange guides. Its website is an excellent resource for local info.
Leuser Ketambe GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0853 6062 6329; www.ketambetour.com; r 100,000-200,000Rp)
Ketambe’s most unique choice is this dated guesthouse that’s the only accommodation inside Gunung Leuser National Park. It has the eerie ambience of an old country manor lost to the jungle, and its large, run-down rooms (with carpet) are in two large wooden houses. There’s also a restaurant here overlooking the river. Take care walking along the mossy paths – they’re slippery!
Wisma Cinta AlamBUNGALOW$
(%0852 7086 4580; johanketambe@gmail.com; Jl Blangkejeren, Km32; s 50,000Rp, d 80,000-150,000Rp)
Run by veteran guide and rafter Johan, these well-established bungalows are set on lovingly maintained grounds. The cheaper rooms sit in a row in a barrack-like construction, while the pricier ones are little bungalows in their own right; both come with showers and real beds. Excellent, knowledgable guides can be organised here. It’s also a good choice for those keen on rafting.
Wisma Sadar WisataGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 7615 5741; www.ketambe.net; Jl Blangkejeren, Km32; r 50,000-80,000Rp; W)
Here you’ll find a range of good-value Karo-style bungalows, some of which back onto nature and overlook the river – Room 5 is the pick. Ayuni and her daughter Mira are entertaining hosts, there’s good food and jungle guides can be easily arranged.
8Getting There & Away
There are two weekly flights between Kutacane and Banda Aceh with Susi Air (www.susiair.com) on Monday and Wednesday. Book directly at their office at the airport.
From Kutacane there are countless labi-labi to Ketambe (25,000Rp including luggage, one hour), but they stop running around 6pm; arrange pick-up with your guesthouse if arriving later. A private car is around 100,000Rp.
All north-bound buses from Kutacane pass through Ketambe. If you want to arrive in Takengon during daylight hours, catch a minibus to Blangkejeren around 8am by standing ready on the main road; with later ones, you miss the 11am connection and will be stuck in Blangkejeren until 4pm or 5pm, when a minibus leaves for Banda Aceh via Takengon.
If travelling south to Danau Toba, catch a Sidikalang-bound bus from Kutacane, then another to Pangururan, and then one to Samosir Island. For Berastagi, there’s a direct minibus from Kutacane.
A shared taxi from Medan to Kutacane (seven hours) is around 130,000Rp.
A private car to Medan is around 1,000,000Rp; to Berastagi 800,000Rp, Danau Toba 1,300,000Rp, Singkil 1,500,000Rp and Bukit Lawang 1,500,000Rp.
BUSES FROM KUTACANE & KETAMBE
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Banda Aceh (via Takengon) | 250,000 | 16 | daily |
| Berastagi | 60,000 | 6 | daily |
| Blangkejeren (for Kedah) | 60,000 | 4 | 7 daily |
| Medan | 80,000 | 7 | several daily |
| Sidikalang | 70,000 | 3½ | daily |
| Singkil | 180,000 | 10 | daily |
Kedah
Located 15km west of the scrappy town of Blangkejeren, the small village of Kedah has seen very few visitors since the conflict in Aceh, making it ripe for off-the-beaten-track travel. At the northern edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, Kedah is a magnificent starting point for treks into the jungle, which is home to orang-utans, gibbons and other exotic wildlife, birds and plants.
4Sleeping & Eating
Simple, local meals are available at Rainforest Lodge. It’s a good idea to stock up on extras in Blangkejeren, especially if you’re off trekking. Blangkejeren has basic restaurants.
oRainforest LodgeLODGE$
(%0813 6229 1844; www.gunung-leuser-trek.net; r 150,000Rp)
Rainforest Lodge has simple but pleasant bungalows along a river in beautiful jungle surrounds, with plenty of opportunities for wildlife-spotting. Let Mr Jally here know in advance that you’re coming. It’s a 50-minute walk from Kedah village and is literally in the middle of nowhere. Rooms are basic; some have attached bathrooms. Bring your own towel and toiletries.
Mr Jally can organise jungle treks for around 500,000Rp per day, including food and guide; these are serious adventures, from the three-day summit of Gunung Angkosan to a six-day expedition to an immense waterfall in the upper Alas Valley. Shorter treks can also be arranged, including night treks. Park permit fees are collected intermittently and the cost is not included.
8Getting There & Away
Susi Air has two weekly flights to Blangkejeren from both Medan and Banda Aceh (around 370,000Rp, one hour) on its tiny planes, but take note of the 10kg luggage limit.
There are also buses to Blangkejeren from Banda Aceh (220,000Rp) and Kutacane (70,000Rp).
From Blangkejeren you can take an ojek (50,000Rp to 60,000Rp, 20 minutes) to Kedah. Mr Jally from Rainforest Lodge can assist.
West Sumatra
In Sumatra Barat (West Sumatra), fertile uplands ring jungle-clad volcanoes, waterfalls cascade into deep ravines and nature takes a breath in deep, still lakes. Rainforest still clings to the steepest slopes, while rice, tapioca, cinnamon and coffee bring in the wealth.
This is the heartland of the matriarchal Minangkabau, an intelligent, culturally rich and politically savvy people who have successfully exported their culture, language, cuisine and beliefs throughout Indonesia and whose soaring architecture dominates the cities and villages.
Coastal Padang is a transport hub and popular pit stop for surfers, trekkers and indigenous-culture enthusiasts bound for the Mentawai Islands. Scenic traveller-friendly Bukittinggi is surrounded by picturesque villages where traditional artisans still ply their trades, while the gorgeous Danau Maninjau, the secluded Harau Valley and Kerinci Seblat National Park provide plenty of scope for outdoor adventure.
History
Little is known about the area’s history before the arrival of Islam in the 14th century. However, the abundance of megalithic remains around the towns of Batu Sangkar and Payakumbuh, near Bukittinggi, suggest that the central highlands supported a sizeable community some 2000 years ago.
After the arrival of Islam, the region was split into small Muslim states ruled by sultans. It remained this way until the beginning of the 19th century, when war erupted between followers of the Islamic fundamentalist Padri movement and supporters of the local chiefs, adherents to the Minangkabau adat (traditional laws and regulations). The Padris were so named because their leaders were haji, pilgrims who had made their way to Mecca via the Acehnese port of Pedir. They returned from the haj determined to establish a true Islamic society and stamp out the pre-Islamic ways that dominated the ruling houses.
The Padris had won control of much of the highlands by 1821 when the Dutch decided to join the fray in support of the Minangkabau traditional leaders. The fighting dragged on until 1837, when the Dutch overcame the equator town of Bonjol, the stronghold of the Padri leader Imam Bonjol, whose name adorns street signs all over Indonesia. In today’s Minangkabau society, a curious fusion of traditional beliefs and Islam is practised.
Padang
%0751 / Pop 1 million
Padang is an urban-Indonesian sprawl sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and the Minangkabau hills. It is to West Sumatra what Medan is to North Sumatra (but with better scenery) – a handy transport hub with air, boat and road connections to major regional attractions, including the Mentawai Islands, Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau and the Kerinci Highlands. Due to the sheer volume of backpacker and surfer traffic passing through, it also has an above-average amount of good budget accommodation and an excellent dining scene, with its regional food the most globally famous of Indonesian culinary offerings.
Padang sits astride one of the planet’s most powerful seismic zones, centrally located on the tectonic hot spot where the Indo-Australian plate plunges under the Eurasian plate. Significant tremors occur on an almost annual basis.
1Sights
Colonial QuarterAREA
Although badly damaged in the 2009 earthquake, Padang’s colonial-era quarter around Jl Batang Arau is still worth a lazy stroll. Crumbling old Dutch and Chinese warehouses back onto a river brimming with fishing boats. The beach along Jl Samudera is the best place to watch sunsets.
Adityawarman MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %0751-31523; www.museumadityawarman.org; Jl Diponegoro 10; adult/child 3000/2000Rp; h7.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Within a grand traditional Minangkabau-style building is this excellent museum that offers a thorough overview of Padang culture. Captions are all in English, and cover Minangkabau lifestyle and architecture, as well as the Mentawais; try to visit before you go to the islands if you’re heading there. There’s also a rather sobering display on the natural disasters that have impacted Padang over the years.
THE MINANGKABAU
Legend has it that the Minangkabau are descended from the wandering Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great. According to the story, the ancestors of the Minangkabau arrived in Sumatra under the leadership of King Maharjo Dirajo, the youngest son of Alexander.
Anthropologists, however, suggest that the Minangkabau arrived in West Sumatra from the Malay Peninsula some time between 1000 and 2000 BC, probably by following Sungai Batang Hari upstream from the Strait of Melaka to the highlands of the Bukit Barisan mountains.
Even if they don’t have Alexander’s bloodline, the Minangkabau reflect his wanderlust and love of battle, albeit in the milder form of buffalo fighting. Their success in buffalo fighting is believed to have bestowed the people with their tribal name, and the horns of the beast are the focus of their architecture and traditional costumes.
The legend of how the Minangkabau named themselves begins with an imminent attack by a Javanese king. Rather than pit two armies against each other, the Minangkabau proposed a fight between two bulls. When the time came, the West Sumatrans dispatched a tiny calf to fight the enormous Javanese bull, but the half-starved calf was outfitted with sharp metal spears to its horns. Believing the Javanese bull to be its mother, the calf rushed to suckle and ripped the bull’s belly to shreds. When the bull finally dropped dead, the people of West Sumatra shouted ‘Minangkabau, minangkabau!’, which literally means, ‘The buffalo wins, the buffalo wins!’
Linguistic sticklers, though, prefer the far more prosaic explanation that Minangkabau is a combination of two words: minanga, which means ‘a river’, and kerbau, which means ‘buffalo’. A third theory suggests that it comes from the archaic expression pinang kabhu, which means ‘original home’ – Minangkabau being the cradle of Malay civilisation.
TTours
Regina AdventuresTOURS, SURFING
(%0812 6774 5464, 0751-781 0835; www.reginaadventures.com; Jl Pampangan 54; 8-day Mentawai surf packages per person from US$515)
Local operator Elvis offers trekking and surfing on the Mentawai Islands, boat charters, trips to Danau Maninjau and Bukittinggi, and ascents of Gunung Merapi and Gunung Kerinci. Check the website for the good-value surf trips to Mentawai and Krui further south.
zFestivals & Events
Dragon Boat FestivalSPORTS
(www.facebook.com/padanginternationaldragonboatindonesia; hJul/Aug)
This festival involves boat-racing competitions between international teams. Check details on Facebook.
4Sleeping
oBat & ArrowGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0751-893552; Jl Batang Arau 25; r incl breakfast with shared bathroom 150,000-250,000Rp, with private bathroom 300,000-450,000Rp; aW)
With a great location in the atmospheric old quarter along the river, this unique choice is upstairs from its popular eponymous bar. It’s more of an art hotel than guesthouse, with rooms featuring creative touches mixed with the creature comforts of cable TV, air-con and wi-fi. While the common areas are a bit dark it’s enlivened by the contemporary installations throughout.
oNew House PadangGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0751-25982; www.newhousepadang.com; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 104; dm/d with shared bathroom from 100,000/250,000Rp, d with private bathroom 330,000Rp; aW)
Popular with surfers and backpackers alike, this friendly and relaxed six-room guesthouse is the perfect mix of budget and style. A compact Zen garden combines with colourful rooms (some with terrace), contemporary artwork and a vast common area. Shared bathrooms are spotless and have hot water. The French owner is on hand to advise about surfing and onward travel.
Riverside HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0751-895 6623; http://riverside-hostel-padang.business.site; Jl Batang Arau 66C; dm 125,000-145,000Rp, d incl breakfast 270,000Rp; aW)
Within a converted old house, this rather refined hostel has polished hardwood floors, exposed brick walls and antique decorations. Boutique rooms and dorms (with curtains for privacy) are spacious, and there’s a huge country-style kitchen and a comfy lounge, making the Riverside Hostel a cut above most backpacker places. It’s down a lane near the boat dock.
Yani’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0852 6380 1686; www.yanihomestaypadang.wordpress.com; Jl Nipah 1; dm 80,000Rp, r 120,000-200,000Rp; aW)
Run by a friendly young owner who’s an excellent source of info, this central homestay provides bona fide backpacker digs in the form of an air-con dorm with lockers and rooms with colourful bedspreads. The best rooms have private bathrooms. There are also motorbikes for rent (for 60,000Rp a day).
Brigitte’s HouseHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0813 7425 7162; www.brigitteshousepadang.com; Jl Kampung Sebalah 1/14; dm/s/d from 95,000/120,000/250,000Rp, d with air-con 250,000-350,000Rp; aW)
Down a backstreet just off Jl Nipah, Brigitte’s is a great backpacker pad with a relaxed ambience and chilled lounge and kitchen areas. The singles are poky but the dorms and doubles are spacious, while the air-con rooms are in a separate apartment building a block away. Brigitte is a treasure trove of information on buses, ferries and Mentawai adventures.
Savali HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0751-27660; www.savalihotel.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk 31; r incl breakfast 700,000-900,000Rp; aWs)
The centrally located Savali is just a short stroll from the beach and good restaurants. The hotel’s 23 rooms are set around a Zen-style garden, the plunge pool is welcome on sultry equatorial afternoons and there’s an on-site wine bar and good coffee shop (%0751-30051; www.elscoffee.com; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W) next door.
5Eating
oSari RasoINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0751-33498; Jl Karya 3; meals around 30,000Rp; h8am-7pm)
Pick from a multitude of spicy dishes at this classic Padang chain, housed within a classy art deco colonial building. Do not miss the beef rendang; it’s as good as we’ve ever had.
Pondok Indah JayaINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0751-25138; Jl Niaga 138; meals around 30,000Rp; h7am-9pm; a)
This warung is an excellent intro to Padang cuisine. The staff will talk you through the selection of dishes, including spicy tofu, beef rendang, ayam sambal and tempe. Cool the fire in your mouth with some sirsak (soursop), cucumber or mango juice.
Safari GardenSTEAK$$
(map Google map; %0751-36055; www.safarigarden.net; Jl Nipah 21; mains 45,000-315,000Rp; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat & Sun; aW)
This stylish, convivial steakhouse with exposed-brick walls and rustic log-lined booths is a fine place for a splurge, or just some good coffee. The specialty is Wagyu beef steaks (from 200,000Rp), but there’s a menu of pizzas (including a rendang version), Balinese nasi campur, Japanese and Korean, seafood and homemade gelato. There’s cold beer and a good selection of fresh juice too.
Ikan Bakar Pak Tri’sSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 91; meals from 50,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
Here the fish and squid are sold by weight or portion and flame-grilled to perfection with a sweet, spicy sambal sauce. The selection includes shoals of different fish and squid, with a supporting cast of kangkung (water spinach) and aubergine dishes. Grab a spot at the shared tables and tuck in for a quintessential Padang experience.
PADANG CUISINE
With nasi Padang (Padang cuisine), you sit down and the whole kit and caboodle gets laid out in front of you. You decide which items look tasty and push the others aside, only paying for what you eat.
The most famous Padang dish is rendang, chunks of beef or buffalo simmered slowly in coconut milk until the sauce is reduced to a rich paste and the meat becomes dark and dried. Other popular dishes include telor balado (egg dusted with red chilli), ayam bakar (charcoal-grilled chicken marinated in coconut sauce), ikan panggang (fish baked in coconut and chilli) and gulai merah kambing (red mutton curry).
Most groups of two people pick one or two meat dishes and a vegetable, usually kangkung (water spinach), and load up with a plate or two of rice. Carbs are manna in Padang cuisine. Vegetarians should ask for tempe or tahu (tofu), which comes in a spicy sambal, as well as gulai nangka (jackfruit curry).
Before digging into the meal with your right hand, wash up in the provided bowl of water. Food and sauces should be spooned onto your plate of rice, then mixed together with the fingers. The rice will be easier to handle if it is a little wet. Use your fingers to scoop up the food, and your thumb to push it into your mouth. It’s messy even for the locals.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBat & ArrowPUB
(map Google map; Jl Batang Arau 25; h2pm-midnight; W)
Overlooking the river in the colonial quarter, this sprawling, atmospheric ‘ruin pub’ feels a bit like a bombed-out building, but instead is Padang’s top traveller hang-out. The beer garden fills up nightly with surfers, backpackers and locals. Beer, pizza and pub food (mains 20,000Rp to 100,000Rp) are on the menu, and there are pool tables and live music.
TeeboxBAR
(map Google map; Jl Diponegoro 25; h10am-2am)
Teebox is a fairly tacky entertainment complex with a bar, DJs, bands, karaoke, pool tables and restaurants, but it’s an option if you’re looking to kick on.
7Shopping
Pasar RayaMARKET
(map Google map; Jl Pasar Raya; h8am-8pm)
Translating as ‘big market’, Pasar Raya lives up to its name: this massive, sprawling site is the centre of Padang’s shopping universe. Here you’ll be able to find anything from fresh fruit, clothing and accessories to bootleg goods. It’s a good spot for taking photos, but watch out for pickpockets. It’s next to a large new mall.
8Information
There are banks and ATMs all over town, including a BNI Bank (Jl Nipah) close to guesthouses.
Padang Imigrasi Office (%0751-705 5113; www.imigrasipadang.com; Jl Khatib Sulaiman 50; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Thirty-day visa extensions can be obtained for 350,000Rp here; allow three to four working days for processing. It’s about 5km north of the centre.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
Padang has regular connections to the Mentawai Islands by boat. The Sungari Muara Ferry Dock (map Google map) is the dock used by the fast-boat service.
BUS
Tranex buses (%0751-705 8577) depart for Bukittinggi (30,000Rp) from the city’s northern fringes, outside the Wisma Indah building. They’re half the price of door-to-door minibuses but you have to catch any white angkot (3000Rp) heading north on Jl Permuda (ask for ‘Tranex’ or ‘Wisma Indah’), and then find transport from the Bukittinggi bus terminal, which is miles from the centre. In reality you save very little money this way.
Minibuses to Bukittinggi (50,000Rp) and other destinations depart from a variety of offices scattered around the city and offer a door-to-door service. AWR Travel (%0751-37337) is a reliable company offering hotel pick-up, otherwise ask your lodgings to arrange a pick-up.
Most minibuses offer pick-up services or depart from Jl Jhoni Anwar. Safa Marwa (%0852 6355 8899) has regular departures to Sungai Penuh (for Kerinci Seblat National Park). Putra Mandau (%0812 8130 3039; Jl Jhoni Anwar) links Padang to Dumai (180,000Rp, 12 hours) if you’re travelling to/from Sumatra by sea from Malaysia or Singapore. To get to Jl Jhoni Anwar, catch an angkot (3000Rp) north along Jl Permuda and Jl S Parman, get off at the white mosque around 5km north of central Padang, and turn right into Jl Jhoni Anwar.
TRANSPORT FROM PADANG
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|
| Bengkulu | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Gunung Sitoli | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Lion Air, Garuda, Sriwijaya Air | 25-30 daily |
| Jambi | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | AirAsia | 3 daily |
| Medan | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 3 daily |
| Palembang | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Pekanbaru | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Pulau Batam | Citilink, Lion Air | 4 daily |
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bukittinggi | 50,000 | 3 | hourly 6am-6pm |
| Jambi | 120,000-240,000 | 12 | 2 daily |
| Kerinci (for Sungai Penuh & Kersik Tua) | 100,000-125,000 | 7-9 | 10am daily |
| Parapat (for Danau Toba) | 180,000-280,000 | 18 | 1pm daily |
8Getting Around
Grab and Go-Jek online taxis both operate in Padang, and are by far the easiest and cheapest ways to travel around town.
Otherwise there are numerous angkot (3000Rp) around town, operating out of the angkot terminal (Jl M Yamin). Padang has no becaks but there are plenty of ojeks – if you’re walking around town they’ll often beep to get your attention.
TO & FROM THE AIRPORT
Taxis charge around 150,000Rp to/from the airport. If you’re travelling light, step outside the airport boundaries and hail an ojek (motorcycle that takes passengers) to central Padang. Online ride services are much cheaper (car/motorbike around 80,000/40,000Rp, 45 minutes), but are only allowed to drop off.
The recently opened Minangkabau Airport Rail Link has five trains a day to the airport (10,000Rp, 40 minutes), departing every two hours from 6.15am until 4.20pm; from the airport the first train is at 7.40am and the last is at 5.55pm.
White airport buses with Damri (%0751-780 6335; 23,500Rp, one hour) are the cheapest option, running roughly hourly between 6.15am and 5.15pm. Tell the conductor your accommodation and street and they’ll drop you at the right stop.
Pantai Bungus & Sungai Pinang
If Padang’s traffic is frying your brains, or you’re waiting for a boat, kick back on one of the nearby beaches: there’s a heap of islands to explore, and they’re exactly the kind of places you’ll end up staying longer than you expected.
Pantai Bungus, 23km south of Padang, is conveniently close to the ferry port of Teluk Kabung, but still sufficiently relaxed to unkink the most frazzled traveller. Further south along the coast is Sungai Pinang, with its somnolent fishing-village vibe.
4Sleeping
oRimba EcolodgeBUNGALOW$$
(%0821 7082 6361; www.rimba-ecoproject.com; r incl meals with shared/private bathroom from 200,000/300,000Rp; W) 
S
Rimba Ecolodge is an intimate French-Indonesian-run place reachable by boat. Monkeys (both silvered leaf and red leaf species) come to explore the beach where the breeze-cooled bungalows are situated and there’s a timeless, tranquil air to the place. The pricier rooms (350,000Rp) have hot water, while wi-fi is an additional 10,000Rp per day.
The food served here features plenty of fresh fish and seafood, and there’s a social vibe with communal dinners, cold beer and arak cocktails. Other perks include use of a traditional canoe, good snorkelling, beach volleyball, jungle trekking, plenty of hammocks and a waterfront treehouse for sunset views.
Staff work closely with local fishing communities in coral reef and wildlife rehabilitation; some proceeds go to their NGO fund.
Keep an eye out for Bilbo, the resident owl, who comes and goes. It costs about 400,000Rp to get here by boat, or 200,000Rp from Sungai Pinang village.
Ricky’s Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 6381 1786; www.authenticsumatra.com/rickys-beach-house; Sungai Pinang; r incl meals per person 300,000-400,000Rp; aW)
Ricky’s Beach House is the kind of place where backpackers extend their stay indefinitely. And why would you want to leave the Rasta-coloured beach house, the little beach bungalows or the hammock-hung bar where someone is always ready to break out the guitar and the bongos? Call ahead for transport.
Great snorkelling, beach volleyball, surf lessons and village tours will keep you busy. The food is tasty and there’s cold beer. The website has good info on the area, as well as details on getting here by public transport; otherwise expect to pay 350,000Rp for a taxi-boat trip out from Padang.
Cubadak Paradiso VillageRESORT$$$
(%0812 663 7609, 0812 660 3766; www.cubadak-paradisovillage.com; Pulau Cubadak; r incl full board US$120-190, minimum 2 nights)
Cubadak Paradiso Village is found on tranquil Pulau Cubadak, where 12 bungalows perch above the teal waters. You can snorkel off your front porch or go diving or canoeing. Pick-up from Padang and boat transport are included.
8Getting There & Away
To reach Pantai Bungus from Padang, take a blue angkot labelled ‘Kabung Bungus’ (15,000Rp, one hour), or a Go-Jek(30,000Rp), Grab(80,000Rp) or regular taxi (120,000Rp). There’s no public transport to Sungai Pinang; it’s an hour’s drive along a very rough road from Bungus, so arrange transport from Padang.
While previously you had to take a boat to reach the guesthouses, a new road means that many can, for the most part, be accessed by car and a shorter boat ride, keeping costs down.
Mentawai Islands
While surfers have long flocked to the Mentawai Islands for its legendary waves, it’s a destination that will also have a far-flung appeal to independent travellers, in particular for those wanting to meet the island’s tattooed hunter-gatherer tribes. The islands’ pristine beaches are also magnificent and as idyllic as any you’ll find anywhere in Sumatra.
Though only 150km from the mainland, the Mentawai Islands and its people were kept isolated until the 19th century by strong winds, unpredictable currents and razor-sharp reefs. It’s thought that the archipelago separated from Sumatra some 500,000 years ago, resulting in unique flora and fauna that sees Mentawai ranked alongside Madagascar in terms of endemic primate population. Of particular interest is siamang kerdil, a rare species of black-and-yellow monkey, named simpai Mentawai by the locals.
Orientation
The largest of the Mentawai Islands, Siberut, is home to the majority of the Mentawai population and is the most studied and protected island in the archipelago. About 60% of Siberut is still covered with tropical rainforest, which shelters a rich biological community that has earned it a designation as a Unesco biosphere reserve. The western half of the island is protected as the Siberut National Park.
Pulau Sipora is home to Tua Pejat, the seat of regional government and a surfer drop-off point. With only 10% of the original rainforest remaining, it’s also the most developed of the Mentawai Islands.
Further south are the Pulau Pagai islands – Utara (North) and Selatan (South) – which rarely see independent travellers.
2Activities
Hiking
The river scene from the film Apocalypse Now might flash into your mind as you head upstream in a longboat and watch the people and villages growing wilder by the minute. Soon you’re out of the canoe and following a wild-eyed sikerei (shaman) covered in tattoos and a loincloth through the mud for the next few hours, passing waterfalls, balancing on slippery tree branches and swimming across rivers until you reach his humble abode on poles in the middle of nowhere.
There’s been fervent discussion about the authenticity of these trips, and what actually constitutes a traditional lifestyle. There is scope for both off-the-beaten-track adventure, where you turn up in remote villages and witness Mentawai life as it really is, and more organised ventures where villagers get paid by your guide to dress up in traditional gear, show you how to fish and hunt and engage you in their daily activities.
Mainland tour agencies tend to offer multiday treks, ranging from six to 10 days, but it’s entirely possible to find your own guide, do an independent trip and decide for yourself how long you wish to go for. That said, longer hikes allow you to penetrate deeper into the island and stay in more remote villages, whereas if you opt for just a couple of nights with the Mentawai people, you’re more likely to end up in a village not far removed from Muara Siberut where the villagers expect to be paid to have their photos taken.
Many hotels and guesthouses in and around Padang can offer treks or recommend guides. Blogs, forums and other travellers can be invaluable sources of info as well. If you have plenty of time, you can just turn up in the Mentawais and ask around at the jetty cafes in Maileppet and Muara Siberut, though a good, recommended guide that you make advance arrangements with can be invaluable. Prices are around 3,500,000Rp for three days/two nights, which include local transport, food, accommodation, a guide and permits, but excludes the ferry from Padang. When talking to a prospective guide, clarify exactly what is and isn’t included, and try to get a detailed breakdown of prices (guide fee per day, food, accommodation and boat), bearing in mind that accommodation prices will be the least of your expenses.
Mentawai Ecotourism is a popular operator, while guides can also be arranged at the guesthouses in Padang.
oMentawai EcotourismTREKKING
(%0823 8573 0254; www.mentawaiecotourism.com; per person 2/3/4/6 nights 3,390,000/3,785,500/4,237,500/5,085,000Rp) S
Set up to empower local Mentawai people and foster responsible tourism, this tour operator runs treks into the jungle to visit local tribes. Based in Siberut, guides can take you on trips lasting anywhere from two to six nights, and these include a number of boat rides, jungle trekking and staying overnight with indigenous communities.
Its pricing system is broken down on the website so you know where your money is going.
Optional add-on activities can include anything from getting inked with a traditional Mentawai tattoo to ceremonial dance performances, hunting and fishing, and making loincloths.
Prices are all inclusive, but you’ll need to get yourself to Siberut from Padang; the more people on the trip, the less the cost. You’ll be given a rubbish bag at the start to clear out all waste you take in.
The company is affiliated with the Suku Mentawai Cultural & Environmental Education Program (www.sukumentawai.org), an Australian NGO that assists Mentawai villages; 10% of trekking fees go here. It was set up by filmmaker Rob Henry, who spent eight years living with indigenous communities and produced the documentary As Worlds Divide (2017), which focuses on the issues these communities face today.
HIKING ESSENTIALS
A Dress for mud wrestling. Most of your gear will get trashed, so leave behind your finest garments and bear in mind you may need to swim across the odd river.
A Double-bag everything in plastic bags (or carry your gear in a dry bag) and keep one set of clothes dry for the evenings.
A Don’t walk in flip-flops (thongs) – step into deep bog and you’ll never see them again. Trainers or trekking boots are a must. Keep flip-flops handy for downtime in the villages.
A Travel light. Large packs are a hindrance and anything tied to the outside is a goner.
A Prepare for poor water sanitation. The local rivers serve all purposes, so water purification (tablets or Steripen) is recommended, as is a water pump to filter out impurities. Alternatively, you can carry your weight in bottled water.
A Take precautions against chloroquine-resistant malaria, which still exists on Siberut, though SurfAid (www.surfaidinternational.org) has been actively working to limit its spread. DDT-strength insect repellent is advisable, as are mosquito nets if you’re travelling independently (tour agencies tend to provide them).
A Don’t expect electricity in the evenings. A torch is your best friend, especially when it comes to negotiating your way to the local privy at night.
A Prepare for rain. May is generally the driest month, while October and November are the wettest – but it can rain at any time. The easiest thing is to just accept that you’re going to get wet.
A Don’t go to the toilet in the river. Instead use the forest; dig and fill a hole, and dispose of toilet paper by burning it.
A Buy essential supplies in Padang, where there is greater choice (and cheaper prices) than in Siberut.
A Buy items for bartering and as gifts. If heading to remote communities, remember that everything tends to be shared, so bring plenty of food. While tobacco is popular, a more positive contribution can be practical items such as machete blades, chisels, scissors, sewing kits and beads for jewellery. Buying a pig (around 500,000Rp) for dinner will also get you in the good books. All can be arranged for purchase in Muara Siberut.
Surfing
The Mentawai Islands have consistent surf year-round at dozens of legendary breaks. Mentawai waves are not for beginners; most breaks are reef breaks, some of them very shallow. The season peaks between April and October, with off-season waves kinder on intermediate surfers. Choose between staying at land-based losmen, surf camps and resorts, or liveaboard boat charters, which head further afield.
With patience, attitude and a handful of contacts it’s possible to put together your own independent surfing safari for a fraction of the cost of a package tour. Budget accommodation is on the increase throughout the Mentawais and chartering a longboat is relatively easy.
The most consistent cluster of waves is in the Playground area, but things can get rather crowded during peak season. The most unpeopled waves are off the practically uninhabited Pulau Pagai Selatan; due to their remoteness, they’re the domain of charter-boat surfers.
Check some of the more popular surfing blogs, such as GlobalSurfers (www.globalsurfers.com) and WannaSurf (www.wannasurf.com) for the latest intel.
SURF TAX
In 2016 the Mentawai government introduced a ‘retribution’ tax on visiting surfers, with the proceeds to be directed to local communities. Surfers now pay 1,000,000Rp for up to 15 days, or 100,000Rp per day for short stays. Most surf-tour companies can arrange payment, otherwise you’ll have to pay on arrival. Note that payment is in rupiah only.
4Sleeping
Most visitors to the Mentawais arrive on prebooked packages that cover accommodation, meals and boat transfers. However, if you’re prepared to chance your luck in finding a boat ride, most lodges will accept walk-in guests
There’s a plethora of surf resorts in the Playground and Tua Pejat areas, a couple in Katiet and Pulau Pagai Utara and Pulau Pagai Selatan. Niang Niang Island has the best choice for budget travellers.
There are a couple of basic hotels in both Muara Siberut and Tua Pejat if you get stuck waiting for a ferry.
Trekking guides will organise family homestays for around 100,000Rp per night.
4Playground
Ebay SurfcampLODGE$
(Mentawai Ebay Playground Surfcamp; %0821 704 8373; www.mentawaiebayplaygroundsurf.camp; Pulau Masokut; per person incl meals 300,000Rp)
Probably the best of the Mentawai budget options is this relaxed guesthouse on a grassy property 50m from an idyllic beach that’s perfect for swimming. Rooms are bare bones, and share bathrooms. Staff are friendly, the food is excellent, the beer is cold and the coconuts are free. The manager Emmanuel speaks good English, but isn’t always around.
Beng Bengs Surf CampLODGE$$$
(%0812 8811 0432; www.bengbengssurfcampmentawai.com; Pulau Masokut; per person incl meals & transport US$120; aW)
Run by Italian surfer Massimo, this popular surf camp has a dream location overlooking a white sandy beach and surf breaks. Rooms are a mix of shared spaces and a double, and are set inside a traditional Mentawai house with contemporary hot-water bathrooms, vibrant Euro decor and beanbags. Its beach bar is the place to be along this stretch of Nyang Nyang.
Staff are friendly and knowledgable about surf spots, and there’s homemade pasta and pizza available.
oMentawai Surf RetreatSURF CAMP$$$
(%0812 6157 0187, 0751-36345; www.mentawaisurfingretreat.com; Pulau Masokut; per person incl food per night US$200, minimum 7 nights; hFeb-Nov; W)
With Pitstops breaking right in front of its three breezy Mentawai-style cottages, this intimate surf retreat has an enviable location on Pulau Masokut. It’s popular for its comforts (king-sized beds, large open bathrooms), immediate proximity to several good waves, delicious food and fully stocked bar overlooking the surf (you can BYO also). It’s professionally run and a good source of local info.
oBotik ResortRESORT$$$
(%0812 8824 6151; www.botikresort.com; Pulau Bocek; per person incl meals & boat trips US$210; aW)
Boasting one of Mentawai’s most stunning white sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters and coconut trees, this Spanish-owned resort truly is your clichéd version of paradise. It’s well located near a heap of surf breaks, while its beach, snorkelling and yoga space make it a good choice for non-surfers too. The three huge, air-conditioned bungalows are atmospheric and comfortable, and the food is excellent.
Kandui VillasRESORT$$$
(%0812 6636 841, 0812 6621 077; www.kanduivillas.com; Pulau Karangmajat; 7 nights for surfers/non-surfers US$1855/1225; aWs)
Located on Pulau Karangmajat, American-owned Kandui Villas is a short paddle from Kandui Left, not far from the legendary Rifles. It offers unlimited speedboat transfers to the waves, making this the pro-surfer digs of choice. Guests are lodged in 12 luxurious, breezy umas (Mentawai-style cottages) with king-sized beds. For non-surfers there’s an infinity pool, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking and yoga.
Wavepark ResortRESORT$$$
(%0812 663 5551; www.wavepark.com; Pulau Siaimu; 10-night package incl meals & transfers US$2950; aiW)
Located on a private island, Wavepark has a front-row view of Hideaways from its lookout tower, and large, comfortable, breezy bungalows (with the best bathrooms in the Mentawais). Non-surfing activities (sea kayaking, snorkelling) make it a favourite with surfing or non-surfing returning couples, and the excellent bar-restaurant screens surfing photos of the day.
Surfers can also get a drone sent up to take footage of their sessions.
Shadow Mentawai Surf CampSURF CAMP$$$
(%0812 7788 6064; www.theshadowmentawai.com; Pulau Buasak; surfers/non-surfers per day incl meals & boat trips from US$120/75; W)
On tiny, lush Pulau Buasak on the outskirts of Playground, Shadow is run by friendly local surfer brothers Ade (along with his Spanish wife) and Dodi and their crew. Solo surfers lodge in cosy two-person bunk rooms with air-con, while couples are more likely to end up in the thatched cottage with a simple outdoor Indonesian bathroom.
It has an appealing traveller vibe not found at Mentawai’s other surf resorts. For non-surfers there are stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), traditional canoes and snorkelling.
THE MENTAWAIANS
The untouched, the unbaptised and the unphotographed have long drawn Westerners to distant corners of the globe. And the Mentawaians have seen every sort of self-anointed discoverer: the colonial entrepreneurs hoping to harness the land for profit, missionaries trading medicine for souls and modern-day tourists eager to experience life before the machine.
Very little is known about the origins of the Mentawaians, but it is assumed that they emigrated from Sumatra to Nias and made their way to Siberut from there.
At the time of contact with missionaries, the Mentawaians had their own language, adat (traditional laws and regulations) and religion, and were skilled boatbuilders. They lived a hunter-gatherer existence.
Traditional clothing was a loincloth made from the bark of the breadfruit tree for men and a bark skirt for women. Mentawaians wore bands of red-coloured rattan, beads and imported brass rings. They filed their teeth into points and decorated their bodies with tattoos.
After independence, the Indonesian government banned many of the Mentawaians’ customs, such as tattoos, sharpened teeth and long hair. Although the ban has not been enforced, many villagers have adopted modern fashions.
Traditional villages are built along riverbanks and consist of one or more uma (communal houses) surrounded by lalep (single-storey family houses). Several families live in the same building. Bachelors and widows have their own quarters, known as rusuk, identical to the family longhouse except they have no altar.
Although essentially patriarchal, society is organised on egalitarian principles. There are no inherited titles or positions and no subordinate roles. It is the uma, not the village itself, which is pivotal to society. It is here that discussions affecting the community take place.
The native Sibulungan religion is a form of animism, involving the worship of nature spirits and a belief in the existence of ghosts, as well as the soul. The chief nature spirits are those of the sky, the sea, the jungle and the earth. The sky spirits are considered the most influential. There are also two river spirits: Ina Oinan (Mother of Rivers) is beneficent, while Kameinan (Father’s Sister) is regarded as evil.
German missionary August Lett was the first to attempt to convert the local people, but he was not entirely successful: eight years after his arrival Lett was murdered by the locals. Somehow the mission managed to survive, however, and 11 baptisms had been recorded by 1916. There are now more than 80 Protestant churches throughout the islands.
More than 50 years after the Protestants, Catholic missionaries moved in to vie for converts. They opened a mission – a combined church, school and clinic – and free medicines and clothes were given to any islander who converted.
Islam was introduced when government officials were appointed from Padang during the Dutch era. Today more than half the population claims to be Protestant, 16% Catholic and 13% Muslim, though the number of Muslims is growing due to government efforts at Islamisation.
Change continues to come quickly here. Tourism, logging, transmigrasi (a government-sponsored scheme enabling settlers to move from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated ones) and other government-backed attempts to mainstream the culture have separated the people from the jungle. And if the rumoured development of the Mentawai Bay Project – a theme-park resort with direct flights from Singapore – ever gets off the ground, then things could change even faster.
An interesting documentary that explores the issues facing the Mentawaians today is As Worlds Divide (2017), made by Australian filmmaker Rob Henry, who spent eight years living among the islands’ indigenous communities.
4Pulau Sipora/Tua Pejat
Oinan Surf LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0821 7086 6999, 0821 7433 8168; www.oinanlodge.com; Jl Mappadejat, Km4, Pulau Sipora; s incl breakfast with shared/private bathroom 350,000/400,000Rp, d 450,000-600,000Rp; aW)
Not actually by the sea, the hilly Oinan Surf Lodge, around 4km from Tua Pejat (ojek/taxi ride 20,000/100,000Rp), has amazing terrace views of the iconic Telescopes wave. Rooms are stylish and chic (one with shared bathroom), and the lodge has its own boat (around 500,000Rp for five people) for easy transport to other good breaks.
oAloita Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
(%0813 2097 1810; www.aloitaresort.com; Pulau Silabok; s/d/tr incl meals US$200/300/420; aW) S
Ten bungalows in a garden setting occupy a private beach here within easy reach of the breaks Telescopes and Iceland, and there’s a beginner’s surf break a short walk away. Italian-run Aloita offers diving and paddleboarding, and its spa and yoga terrace make it a good option for surfers planning on bringing partners or family.
Aloita contributes to the local community by employing local staff and funding a school.
oTogat NusaRESORT$$$
(%0812 6728 7537; www.togatnusaretreat.com; Pulau Pitojat; 9 nights incl meals US$2600; aW)
On the private 12-hectare island of Pitojat, Togat Nusa has four bungalows catering to only eight guests at a time. The funky and stylish accommodation is crafted using recycled driftwood and stained glass, and snorkelling and romantic beach dinners make it a good option for surfing or non-surfing couples. The excellent bar is haunted by a guest-loving langur.
4Katiet
Hollow Tree’s Surf ResortSURF RESORT$$$
(%0812 4636 2664; www.htsresort.com; Katiet, South Sipora; per person incl meals & boat trips US$200; aWs)
With an enviable location in front of the legendary HT’s right-hander and just a short hop from Lance’s Left, Bintangs, Cobra’s and even a couple of beach breaks, Hollow Tree’s is all about the creature comforts (hot showers, air-con), combined with killer views. Downtime fun includes paddleboarding, snorkelling, fishing and snoozing under palm trees.
8Information
There’s an ATM in Tua Pejat, but don’t rely on it.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
As of 2018 there are were no scheduled flights to Rokot Airport on Pulau Sipora. It could be worth checking if Susi Air (www.susiair.com) has resumed flights from Padang; however, in the past flights were unreliable, with weather delays and last-minute cancellations.
BOAT
The Mentawai Islands have become considerably easier to reach with the introduction of Mentawai Fast (map Google map; %0751-893489; www.mentawaifast.com; one way from 295,000Rp, plus surfboard 230,000-690,000Rp), a 200-seat speedboat. There are also three ferries that make the overnight journey from the Sumatran mainland to the islands. The trip on the ferries takes around 10 to 12 hours, depending on sea conditions. In Padang, ferries can be booked through most surfer-friendly homestays, as well as tour agencies.
FERRIES FROM THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS
Mentawai Fast conveniently runs from the dock in central Padang; note that when it stops at Sikabaluan en route to Siberut from Padang, the total journey time to Siberut is six hours. Get to the dock at least 30 minutes before departure. Pre-booking is a good idea during peak season.
| DAY | ROUTE | DEPARTURE TIME |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | Padang–Tua Pejat | 6am |
| Monday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 3pm |
| Tuesday | Padang–Sikabaluan–Siberut | 7am |
| Tuesday | Siberut–Padang | 3pm |
| Wednesday | Padang–Tua Pejat | 7am |
| Wednesday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 3pm |
| Thursday | Padang–Siberut | 7am |
| Thursday | Siberut–Padang | 3pm |
| Friday | Padang–Tua Pejat | 7am |
| Friday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 3pm |
| Saturday | Padang–Sikabaluan-Siberut | 7am |
| Saturday | Siberut–Padang | 3pm |
| Sunday | Padang–Tua Pejat | 7am |
| Sunday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 3pm |
Ambu Ambu & Gambolo (%0751-27153) are the biggest ferries connecting Padang and the Mentawai Islands. Options include air-conditioned VIP seats (123,000Rp), more basic economy seats (92,000Rp) and wooden berths you can lie down on (50,000Rp). Of the two, the Gambolo is more comfortable, though both tend to be very crowded. Both ferries leave from the Teluk Kabung port at Bungus, around 20km south of Padang; which is something for budget travellers to keep in mind given it’s about 75,000Rp with Grab taxi (100,000Rp by normal taxi) to get there.
| DAY | ROUTE | DEPARTURE TIME | VESSEL NAME |
|---|---|---|---|
| Monday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 8pm | Gambolo |
| Tuesday | Bungus–Sikakap | 5pm | Ambu Ambu |
| Wednesday | Bungus–Siberut | 7pm | Gambolo |
| Wednesday | Sikakap–Padang | 5pm | Ambu Ambu |
| Thursday | Bungus–Tua Pejat | 8pm | Ambu Ambu |
| Thursday | Siberut–Padang | 8pm | Gambolo |
| Friday | Bungus–Siberut | 7pm | Gambolo |
| Friday | Tua Pejat–Padang | 8pm | Ambu Ambu |
| Saturday | Bungus–Sikakap | 5pm | Ambu Ambu |
| Saturday | Siberut–Padang | 8pm | Gambolo |
| Sunday | Bungus–Tua Pejat | 8pm | Gambolo |
| Sunday | Sikakap–Padang | 5pm | Ambu Ambu |
8Getting Around
If you’re travelling independently, transport between the Mentawai Islands or surfing spots is an easy way to drift into insolvency. You have three options: charter a speedboat, catch one of the three inter-island ferries, whose schedules are prone to delays and changes, or ask around to see if you can share a boat with another group.
Single-engine longboats can be hired from the main villages; if you want to hire a more comfortable two-engine speedboat with a roof, expect to pay considerably more. Sample charter routes (for up to five passengers) include Muara Siberut to Ebay (1,500,000Rp, 1½ hours), Ebay to Playgrounds (1,000,000Rp, 30 minutes), Playgrounds to Tua Pejat (3,500,000Rp, 2½ hours), and Sioban to Katiet (1,500,000Rp, two hours). As petrol prices keep increasing, expect the charter prices to rise.
If you have more time than money, you can island-hop all the way from Siberut to Sao (near Katiet) using the three inter-island ferries, KM Beriloga, KM Simasini and KM Simatalu; ticket prices start from 25,000Rp. That’s right: a tiny fraction of speedboat costs, thanks to government subsidies. Check the latest timings with your fixer or your surf camp.
INTERISLAND FERRY CONNECTIONS
| DEPARTURE | DESTINATION | VESSEL NAME | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Maileppet | Tua Pejat | KM Beriloga, KM Simatalu | Monday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday |
| Sao (Katiet) | Sioban, Tua Pejat | KM Simatalu | Tuesday |
| Sikakap | Tua Pejat | KM Simasini | Wednesday, Sunday |
| Tua Pejat | Maileppet | KM Beriloga, KM Simasini | Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday |
| Tua Pejat | Sikakap | KM Simasini | Monday, Saturday |
Bukittinggi
%0752 / Pop 117,000
The market town of Bukittinggi sits high above the valley mists as three sentinels – fire-breathing Merapi, benign Singgalang and distant Sago – all look on impassively. As well as being a handy base to explore Danau Maninjau and the surrounding countryside, the town itself is an interesting spot for a night or two. There are some worthwhile historical sights, including a Dutch fort and Japanese WWII tunnels, as well as attractive local landmarks. At an elevation of 930m it has a refreshingly temperate climate all year round.
It’s a popular stopover for those heading between Padang and Danau Toba.
1Sights
Gua JepangCAVE
(map Google map; Japanese Caves; 20,000Rp; h6.30am-7pm)
This extensive network of underground WWII Japanese bunkers built into a cliff face stretches for nearly 1.5km. It was built by local forced labour in 1942, and exploring its tunnels (used as living quarters, prison and torture area, and for storing ammunition and launching offensives) can be a rather spooky experience. English-speaking guides (30,000Rp) are available at the entrance across from Taman Panorama, about 1km from the centre of Bukittinggi.
Benteng de KockVIEWPOINT
(map Google map; Benteng Fort; Jl Benteng; 20,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
Benteng de Kock was built by the Dutch during the Padri Wars. Other than a few cannons and ramparts, there’s not much to it now apart from the nice gardens and fine views over town. The entrance is down a fairly discreet side street running off Jl Teuku Umar. Connecting it with a depressing zoo (we don’t recommend visiting it) is the attractive Minangkabau-style Limpapeh bridge, stretching 90m above the road. This prominent city landmark was erected in 1992.
Jam GadangLANDMARK
(map Google map; Big Clock Tower; btwn Jl Istana & Jl Sudirman)
Built in the 1920s to house a clock that was a gift from the Dutch queen, Jam Gadang is Bukittinggi’s town emblem and focal point. Independence in 1945 saw the unique retrofit of a Minangkabau roof. In the evenings it’s illuminated with neon lights and makes for an atmospheric place to stroll among local families.
1Around Bukittinggi
Gunung MarapiVOLCANO
(20,000Rp)
The smouldering summit of Gunung Merapi (2891m), one of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes, looms large over Bukittinggi around 16km to the east. If Merapi is benign, then visitors typically hike overnight to view sunrise from the summit from the village of Koto Baru; it’s a 12-hour round trip. You’ll need good walking boots, warm clothing, a torch, food and drink and a guide. Travel agencies in Bukittinggi do guided trips to Merapi for around 400,000Rp per person (minimum two people).
Batang Palupuh Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
This reserve, 16km north of Bukittinggi, is home to many orchid species, as well as the massive Rafflesia arnoldii and Amorphophallus titanum, the largest flowers on the planet – the latter endemic to Sumatra. The rafflesia blooms throughout the year, if briefly, whereas you have to be incredibly lucky to catch the Amorphophallus titanum in bloom at all. Both flowers reek like roadkill. Local buses to Palupuh cost 10,000Rp, a taxi is 10,000Rp and a Grab online taxi 40,000Rp.
Hiring a guide such as Joni (%0813 7436 0439) to lead you to the flowers is around 75,000Rp.
The blossom of the parasitic rafflesia measures nearly a metre across and can weigh up to 11kg, while the inflorescence of Amorphophallus titanum can extend to over 3m in circumference.
House of Rafflesia Luwak CoffeePLANTATION
(%0819 3353 8136, 0813 7417 8971; www.rafflesialuwakcoffee.org; Desa Batang Palupuh)
At this plantation in Batang Palupuh, friendly owner Umul Khairi is happy to explain the process of harvesting, drying and roasting kopi luwak – a smooth, earthy brew produced from coffee beans ingested and excreted by civets (cat-like mammals). While the luwak coffee industry has come under fire for ‘farming’ civets to meet demand for the brew, the House of Rafflesia still operates in the traditional way, collecting wild civet ‘poo’ off the jungle floor.
You can also taste (20,000Rp) and purchase (from 200,000Rp) the beans.
Minangkabau cooking classes (per person 350,000Rp) are also on offer. The multicourse menu includes beef rendang and chicken curry, and Umul will even run the course for solo travellers. Book via the website or phone to confirm at least one day before you visit.
Gunung SinggalangVOLCANO
(10,000Rp)
Climbing dormant Gunung Singgalang (2877m) is a more adventurous undertaking than Gunung Merapi. Highly recommended English-speaking guide Dedi (0813 7425 1312), based in Pandai Sikat – the best starting point for the climb – charges 350,000Rp, and the climb is an eight- to nine-hour roundtrip. Otherwise you can arrange trips through Hello Guesthouse for 400,000Rp (minimum two people) including guide, transport and food. There are campsites by the beautiful crater lake, Telago Dewi.
PT Studio Songket PalantaloomARTS CENTRE
(%0823 8936 8875, 0752-783 4253; www.palantaloom.com; Jorong Panca, SMKN1, Batu Taba; h8.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)
Handicraft and textile fans should not miss this place near Simpang Bukit Batabuah, 7km southeast of Bukittinggi. Dedicated to revitalising the traditional Minangkabau art of weaving songket (silver- or gold-threaded cloth), the studio has trained young weavers (aged 18 to 28) in the art of producing Sumatra’s finest. Phone ahead, and catch a yellow opelet from the Aur Kuning bus terminal to Batu Taba (4500Rp), getting off at the SMKN1 (high school).
MINANGKABAU WOMEN RULE
Though Minangkabau society is Islamic, it’s still matrilineal. According to Minangkabau adat (traditional laws and regulations), property and wealth are passed down through the female line. Every Minangkabau belongs to his or her mother’s clan. At the basic level of the clan is the sapariouk, those matri-related kin, who eat together. These include the mother, the grandchildren and the son-in-law. The name comes from the word periouk (rice pot). The eldest living female is the matriarch. The most important male member of the household is the mother’s eldest brother, who replaces the father in being responsible for the children’s education, upbringing and marriage prospects. But consensus is at the core of the Minangkabau ruling philosophy and the division of power between the sexes is regarded as complementary – like the skin and the nail act together to form the fingertip, according to a local expression.
TTours
Roni’s ToursADVENTURE
(map Google map; %0812 675 0688; www.ronistours.com; Orchid Hotel, Jl Teuku Umar 11)
Based at the Orchid Hotel, Roni’s can arrange everything from local tours to Danau Maninjau and the Harau Valley, to trips to further-afield locations such as the Mentawai Islands and Kerinci Seblat National Park.
ArmandoDRIVING
(%0812 674 1852; arisna_sejati@yahoo.co.id; day tour from 300,000Rp)
Armando is a helpful and knowledgable English-speaking guide who is happy to give you cultural tours of the Bukittinggi area on the back of his motorcycle. He also rents motorbikes (75,000Rp).
zFestivals & Events
Oxen RacingSPORTS
(50,000Rp; hnoon-4pm Sat)
Local farmer-jockeys race twin oxen through a muddy paddy field, balancing precariously on the wooden runners. This spectacle, which animal-welfare experts claim uses inhumane tactics to make the beasts run, takes place most Saturdays near Simasur market in Batu Sangkar, 41km southeast of Bukittinggi.
4Sleeping
oHello GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0752-21542; www.helloguesthouse.net; Jl Teuku Umar 6B; dm/s/d/f incl breakfast from 75,000/150,000/175,000/350,000Rp; W)
This bright and modern guesthouse is run by thoughtful owner Ling, who understands the needs of budget travellers. She is happy to provide maps of town, has displays on town attractions, and has fitted the rooms with supercomfy mattresses and hot-water showers. There are also newly installed futuristic capsules, complete with flashing sci-fi gadgetry.
Earplugs (10,000Rp) are available to counter noise from the nearby mosque. It’s often full so book ahead.
Orchid HotelHOTEL$
(map Google map; %0752-32634; roni_orchid@hotmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 11; r incl breakfast 150,000-180,000Rp; W)
This popular budget inn has a good travel desk, helpful staff and a sociable downstairs space. Rooms on three levels are pretty basic, but all have attached bath and the more expensive ones come with hot water. Wi-fi is in the lobby only.
Rajawali HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0752-31095; ulrich.rudolph@web.de; Jl Ahmad Yani 152; r from 90,000Rp)
The seven rooms at this friendly but very basic homestay come with Indonesian bathrooms and creaky beds. Owner Yanna is good for a chat.
Treeli HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0752-625350; treeliboutiquehotel@gmail.com; Jl Kesehatan 36A; r incl breakfast 475,000-790,000Rp; aW)
An excellent addition to Bukittinggi’s rather tired midrange sleeping options, contemporary Treeli gets a lot of things right. Rooms are compact and quiet, with modern bathrooms and all sorts of mod cons. An excellent breakfast is served on the breezy roof terrace and the restaurant specialises in Chinese-style seafood dishes.
Grand Rocky HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0752-627000; www.rockyhotelsgroup.com; Jl Yos Sudarso; r incl breakfast from 880,000Rp; aWs)
Adding a touch of kitschy Vegas glamour to Bukittinggi’s top-end range, the Grand Rocky stands sentinel above town, its lobby bustling with bow-tied staff. Rooms are spacious and modern, views stretch to the Sianok Canyon, and it’s just a short downhill stroll to the brightish lights of central Bukittinggi. Check online for good discounts if you’re keen for a mini splurge.
5Eating & Drinking
RM SelamatINDONESIAN$
(map; Jl Ahmad Yani; rendang 21,000Rp; h6.30am-9.30pm)
Padang food in West Sumatra rarely disappoints, and this cafeteria-style restaurant is famous for its authentic smoky beef rendang, among its assortment of delicious dishes to choose from.
De Kock CafePUB FOOD$
(map Google map; %0821 7492 9888; Jl Teuku Umar 18; mains from 25,000Rp; h7am-1am; W)
De Kock (which translates to ‘cannon’, in case you’re wondering) has a smoky salon atmosphere that’s popular with both locals and tourists who come here for beers and a mixture of Western pub food (pizzas, steak sandwiches) and Indonesian dishes. It has surprisingly good breakfast options too. There’s live music on Saturday.
Gulai Itiak Lado Mudo NgaraiINDONESIAN$
(Jl Binuang 41; mains 30,000Rp; h7am-4pm)
This simple restaurant is a good place to sample delicious itiak lado mudo (duck in green chilli), a regional specialty. It’s in a valley area near to the river a couple of kilometres west of Bukittinggi on the road to Danau Maninjau.
Turret CafeCAFE$
(map Google map; Jl Ahmad Yani 140-142; mains 25,000-60,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
This old-school Bukittinggi traveller haunt offers a smattering of Western dishes with the odd inclusion of mie goreng (fried noodles), beef rendang, green curry, cold beer and the best guacamole in town.
Bedudal CafeBAR
(map Google map; Jl Ahmad Yani 105; h9am-midnight; W)
Grab a beer (small/large 30,000/45,000Rp) and make yourself comfortable amid the wooden carvings and pop-culture posters and chat to the friendly youthful staff. There’s a menu of Indonesian dishes (20,000Rp to 35,000Rp) along with bar snacks. Guitars are on hand for occasional jam sessions.
Taruko CaferestoCAFE
(Jl Raya Lembah Maninjau; h8am-6pm)
Around 4km west of Bukittinggi is this tranquil cafe set in an attractive thatched building overlooking ridiculously picturesque countryside – complete with bubbling brook. It’s a perfect spot to while away a few hours, or grab a coffee en route to Danau Maninjau. Indonesian dishes, pancakes and omelettes are on the menu, but it’s more about the view than the food here.
7Shopping
Jl Minangkabau is good for shopping for woven bags and batik shirts, while upper Jl Ahmad Yani has traditional crafts and antiques.
Beautiful red and gold Minangkabau embroidery can be found at Pasar Atas (map Google map; Jl Minangkabau; h8am-8pm) and around town.
8Information
Banks and ATMs are scattered along Jl Ahmad Yani and Jl A Karim.
8Getting There & Away
The chaos of the main bus terminal, Aur Kuning, 3km south of town, can be reached by angkot (3000Rp) or ojek (10,000Rp to 15,000Rp); ask for ‘terminal’. Heading to central Bukittinggi on arrival ask for ‘Kampung Cina’.
The main bus terminal is useful for some bus departures but not all. Minibuses to Sibolga (200,000Rp, 12 hours) depart from offices on Jl Veteran, as do minibuses to Parapat (350,000Rp, 18 hours); scheduled door-to-door transfers to Padang (50,000Rp, three hours) are more convenient than waiting for a bus at the terminal. Most lodgings can point you in the right direction and assist with booking passage.
For Harau Valley catch a minibus to Tanjung Pati from the Simpang Raya restaurant close to the terminal; from Tanjung Pati you’ll then need to take a becak (20,000Rp).
The best way to get to Dumai – for ferries to Melaka and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia – is with the travel agency Bukittinggi Wisata Express (BWE; %0752-625139, 0752-625140; Jl Pemuda 81). Minibuses leave Bukittinggi nightly at 8pm (120,000Rp, nine hours), to link with the ferry from Dumai to Batam (350,000Rp, 6am) and Melaka (335,000Rp, 9.30am). Prebooking is required. BWE can also book the ferry; you’ll need to drop in the day before departure with your passport.
BUSES FROM BUKITTINGGI
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bengkulu | 180,000-230,000 | 18 | 2-3 daily |
| Danau Maninjau | 20,000 | 1½ | 3 daily |
| Dumai | 125,000-240,000 | 10 | 10am, 5pm, 7pm daily |
| Medan | 180,000-290,000 | 20 | several daily |
| Padang | 20,000-30,000 | 3-4 | frequent |
| Parapat (for Danau Toba) | 185,000-205,000 | 16 | several daily |
| Pekanbaru | 80,000-120,000 | 7 | 6 daily |
| Sibolga (for Pulau Nias) | 150,000-260,000 | 12 | several daily |
8Getting Around
Angkot (Jl Pemuda) around town cost 3000Rp. Bendi rides are around 50,000Rp. An ojek from the bus terminal to the city centre costs 10,000Rp to 15,000Rp, while a taxi costs 50,000Rp but can take up to 30 minutes in heavy traffic.
Transfers to Padang’s airport can be arranged from any travel agent for around 50,000Rp. A private taxi to the airport is 250,000Rp to 300,000Rp.
Some guesthouses rent out mopeds for 75,000Rp per day, or contact Roni’s Tours at the Orchid Hotel.