Sumatra
North Sumatra
Medan
Bukit Lawang
Tangkahan
Berastagi & Around
Parapat
Danau Toba
Sibolga
Pulau Nias
Gunung Sitoli
Traditional Villages
Pantai Sorake & Teluk Lagundri
Teluk Dalam
Aceh
Banda Aceh
Pulau Weh
Aceh’s West Coast
Banyak Islands
Gunung Leuser National Park
West Sumatra
Padang
Pantai Bungus & Sungai Pinang
Mentawai Islands
Bukittinggi
South of Bukittinggi
Danau Maninjau
Kerinci Valley
Bengkulu
Riau
Pekanbaru
Dumai
Pulau Batam
Pulau Bintan
Jambi
South Sumatra
Palembang
Lampung
Tanjung Setia & Krui
Bandar Lampung
Way Kambas National Park
Gunung Krakatau
Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park
Sumatra
Pop 51 million
Why Go?
Few isles tempt the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like the wild land of Sumatra. An island of extraordinary beauty, it bubbles with life and vibrates under the power of nature. Eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis are Sumatran headline-grabbers. Steaming volcanoes brew and bluster while standing guard over lakes that sleepily lap the edges of craters. Orang-utan-filled jungles host not only our red-haired cousins, but also tigers, rhinos and elephants. And down at sea level, idyllic deserted beaches are bombarded by clear barrels of surf.
As varied as the land, the people of Sumatra are a spicy broth of mixed cultures, from the devout Muslims in Aceh to the hedonistic Batak Christians around Danau Toba and the matrilineal Minangkabau of Padang. All are unified by a fear, respect and love of the wild and wondrous land of Sumatra.
When to Go
Apr–Oct Hit the waves on the Mentawais and Pulau Nias.
May–Sep Travelling during dry season maximises wildlife sightings in the jungle.
Nov–Mar Monsoon season, but there are significant accommodation discounts.
Sumatra Highlights
1 Danau Toba Delving into the fascinating Batak culture on the shores of Southeast Asia’s largest lake.
2 Bukit Lawang Trekking through the jungle in search of orang-utans.
3 Banyak Islands Finding your desert-island paradise and snorkelling Sumatra’s best reefs.
4 Pulau Weh Swimming with sharks and turtles in the coral garden off this tiny island.
5 Kerinci Seblat National Park Searching for tigers and pristine lakes and hiking up volcanoes.
6 Bukittinggi Exploring the heartland of the Minangkabau.
7 Ketambe Getting into the jungle experience at the heart of the Gunung Leuser National Park.
8 Mentawai Islands Living the surfer dream and visiting pristine beaches and hunter-gatherer tribes.
9 Bengkulu Trekking to villages in the countryside around Sumatra’s most pleasant city.
a Berastagi Hiking to a steaming volcanic peak near this hill town.
History
Pre-Islamic history is often more myth than fact, but archaeological evidence suggests that Sumatra was the gateway for migrating tribes from mainland Southeast Asia.
The Strait of Melaka, an important trade route between China and India, exposed the east coast of Sumatra to the region’s superpowers and cultural influences such as Islam. The kingdom of Sriwijaya emerged as a local player at the end of the 7th century, with its capital presumably based near the modern city of Palembang. After Sriwijaya’s influence waned, Aceh, at the northern tip of Sumatra, assumed control of trade through the strait. The era of Aceh’s sultanate prevailed until the beginning of the 17th century, when Dutch traders claimed a piece of the spice trade.
The most influential port of the day, Samudra, near Lhokseumawe, eventually became the name that traders used to refer to the entire island. It was Marco Polo who corrupted the name to ‘Sumatra’ in his 1292 report on the area.
Throughout the colonial era, Sumatra saw many foreign powers stake a claim in its resources: the Dutch based themselves in the west Sumatran port of Padang, the British ruled in Bencoolen (now Bengkulu), American traders monopolised pepper exports from Aceh, and the Chinese exploited the reserves on the islands of Bangka and Belitung, east of Palembang.
In the early 19th century, the Dutch attempted to assert military control over all of Sumatra, a move met with resistance by its disparate tribes. In 1863 the Dutch finally established authority over Pulau Nias. Treaties and alliances brought other areas of Sumatra under Dutch rule.
The Dutch were never welcomed in Sumatra, which contributed several key figures to the independence struggle. Yet Sumatra was dissatisfied with Jakarta’s rule. Between 1958 and 1961, rebel groups based in Bukittinggi and the mountains of South Sumatra resisted centralisation, which led to clashes with the Indonesian military. Fiercely independent Aceh proved to be Jakarta’s most troublesome region. Aceh’s separatist movement started in the late 1970s and continued until 2006.
No human conflict could compare to the destruction that occurred on Boxing Day in 2004, when a 9.0-plus-magnitude earthquake off the northwestern coast of Sumatra triggered a region-wide tsunami, killing over 170,000 people, mainly in Aceh. The one silver lining to the disaster was that the rescue and reconstruction efforts have brought peace to the region, and it has largely held to date.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Medan is Sumatra’s primary international hub, with frequent flights from its new airport to mainland Southeast Asian cities such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Bangkok. In West Sumatra, Padang receives flights from Kuala Lumpur. Banda Aceh, Palembang, Pulau Batam and Pekanbaru also receive international flights from mainland Southeast Asia.
You can catch a plane from Jakarta to every major Sumatran city with Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia.com), Citilink (www.citilink.co.id), Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id) or Sriwijaya Air (www.sriwijayaair.co.id), among others. Flights from Sumatra to other parts of Indonesia typically connect through Jakarta.
A warning: when oil-palm plantations on Sumatra’s east coast are burnt (annually, usually during dry season), the smoke frequently results in the closure of Pekanbaru and Jambi airports.
BOAT
Budget airlines have signalled the end of some international ferries, such as the Penang–Medan route. However, on Sumatra’s east coast, ferries run from both Dumai and the Riau Islands (namely Pulau Batam and Pulau Bintan) to both Malaysia and Singapore.
For Malaysia, there are regular services to Melaka, Port Dickson and Klang (for Kuala Lumpur) from Dumai. To Singapore, ferries make the quick hop from Pulau Batam and Pulau Bintan, the primary islands in the Riau archipelago. From Batam and Bintan, boats set sail for Dumai and Tanjung Buton, from where there are buses to Pekanbaru on Sumatra’s mainland.
Ferries cross the narrow Sunda Strait, which links the southeastern tip of Sumatra at Bakauheni to Java’s westernmost point of Merak. The sea crossing is a brief dip in a day-long voyage that requires several hours’ worth of bus transport between both ports and Jakarta and, on the Sumatra side, Bandar Lampung.
8Getting Around
AIR
Short plane journeys can be an attractive alternative to spending an eternity on packed buses. Competition between domestic carriers means internal flights are inexpensive and largely reliable, with the exception of Susi Air and its small planes, which are particularly susceptible to bad weather. Dry-season smog affects planes along the east coast.
Useful air hops include those from Medan to Pulau Weh, Banda Aceh and Padang, Palembang to Jambi, and Pulau Batam to Padang and Bengkulu.
BOAT
Most boat travel within Sumatra connects the main island with the many satellite islands lining the coast. The most commonly used routes link Banda Aceh with Pulau Weh; Padang with the Mentawai Islands; and Singkil with the Banyak Islands or Pulau Nias. Most long-distance ferries have several classes, ranging from dilapidated and crowded to air-conditioned and less crowded, though still dilapidated. The Mentawai Islands are now served by a comfortable large speedboat.
BUS
Bus is the most common mode of transport around Sumatra, and in some cases it’s the only option for intercity travel. But it is far from efficient or comfortable, since all types of buses – from economy sardine cans to modern air-con coaches – are subject to the same traffic snarls along Sumatra’s single carriageways, as well as the potholes and endless stops to pick up or drop off passengers. At the top of the class structure are superexecutive or VIP buses with reclining seats, deep-freeze air-con, toilets and an all-night serenade of karaoke. Smart passengers come prepared with a jacket and earplugs.
In some towns, you can go straight to the bus terminal to buy tickets and board buses, while other towns rely on bus-company offices outside the terminals. Ticket prices vary greatly depending on the quality of the bus and the perceived gullibility of the traveller; ask at your guesthouse how much a ticket is supposed to cost.
Minibus
For midrange and shorter journeys, many locals and travellers use minibus and shared-car services. They are not necessarily faster or more comfortable, but can be more convenient than hustling out to bus terminals as they run intercity and door-to-door.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
The best means of getting around for locals and travellers alike are online taxis such as Grab (www.grab.com/id/en) and Go-Jek (www.go-jek.com), which are booked through smartphone apps. These offer much cheaper and faster alternatives not only to regular taxis and ojeks (motorcycle taxis), but other forms of local transport as well.
Otherwise the usual Indonesian forms of transport – labi-labi or angkot (small minibus), ojek, becak (motorcycle-rickshaw or bicycle-rickshaw) and bendi (two-person horse-drawn cart) – are available in Sumatran towns and cities. Establish a price for a becak ride before climbing aboard. For an angkot, you pay after you disembark.
TRAIN
The only three useful train services in Sumatra run from Medan’s new airport to the centre of Medan, and from Bandar Lampung to Palembang and Lahat (for the Pasemah Highlands).
North Sumatra
For many visitors, the northern part of Sumatra bordering Aceh is their primary focus. With good air connections to Medan, from here you can trek in search of orang-utans in Bukit Lawang, climb volcanoes from Berastagi, laze away on the shores of Danau Toba, skim the waves off the Banyaks and Nias, and easily venture further north to Pulau Weh or south to Padang and the Mentawais.
North Sumatra stretches from the Indian Ocean to the Strait of Melaka. From sea to shining sea, it is anything but homogeneous. The rolling landscape varies from sweaty plains to cool highlands, while the houses of worship switch between the metal domes of mosques to the arrow-straight steeples of Christian churches. In the highlands around Danau Toba are the delightful Batak, and then there’s the megalithic culture of Pulau Nias.
Medan
%061 / Pop 2.2 million
Sumatra’s major metropolis, and Indonesia’s third-largest city, Medan is the first (or final) port of call for many visitors to the island. Given it’s not on the coast, and there’s no mountain backdrop or even a grand river, Medan is much maligned among many travellers as a soulless industrialised city, a necessary evil to reach more exciting destinations. While it does have issues with traffic and pollution, it’s a city with real Indonesian urban character. If you can get over the culture shock and give Medan a bit of time, you’ll discover there’s more than a hint of fascinating, crumbling Dutch-colonial-era charm, plus some worthwhile sightseeing and shopping, contemporary nightlife and restaurants, and old-school backstreet food stalls.
1Sights
Ghosts of Medan’s colonial-era mercantile past are still visible along Jl Ahmad Yani from JI Palang Merah north to Lapangan Merdeka, a former parade ground surrounded by handsome colonial-era buildings, such as Bank Indonesia, Balai Kota (map Google map; Town Hall; Jl Balai Kota) and the main post office.
oMuseum of North SumatraMUSEUM
(Museum Negeri Provinsi Sumatera Utara; Jl HM Joni 51; 10,000Rp; 
h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 3.15pm Fri-Sun)
Housed in a striking traditional building, this museum has a well-presented collection ranging from early North Sumatran civilisations and Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic periods to Dutch colonial-era and military history. Highlights include fine stone carvings and extravagantly carved wooden dragon coffins from Nias, Batak scrolls for fending off misfortune, fine textiles and a keris (ornamental dagger) collection. It’s a short way southeast of the city centre.
Istana MaimoonPALACE
(map Google map; Jl Katamso; 5000Rp; h8am-6pm)
The grand, 30-room Maimoon Palace was built by the Sultan of Deli in 1888 and features Malay, Mughal and Italian influences. Only the main room, which features the lavish inauguration throne, is open to the public. Here you can check out a modest keris (ornamental dagger) collection and dress up in traditional Malay costume for a photo (20,000Rp).
Mesjid RayaMOSQUE
(map Google map; cnr Jl Mesjid Raya & SM Raja; entry by donation; h9am-5pm, except during prayer times)
The impressive Grand Mosque was commissioned by the Sultan of Deli in 1906. The Moroccan-style building has a grand entrance, towering ceilings, ornate carvings, Italian marble and stained glass from China.
Tjong A Fie MansionHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; www.tjongafiemansion.org; Jl Ahmad Yani 105; 35,000Rp; h9am-5pm)
The home of a famous Chinese merchant who died in 1921 – formerly the wealthiest resident of Medan – mixes opulent Victorian and Chinese styles. The original hand-painted ceilings, Tjong’s huge bedroom, imported dark-wood furniture inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl, interesting art pieces, an upstairs ballroom and Taoist temples help to make it one of the most impressive historic buildings in town.
Graha Maria Annai VelangkanniCHURCH
(www.velangkanni.com; Jl Sakura II; h24hr)
One for advocates of religious diversity and quirky architecture, this surreal Catholic church combines Hindu and Islamic architecture styles with a curved walking bridge leading up to its entrance. It’s 8km southwest of the city centre (around 60,000Rp with a Grab taxi).
TTours
Tri Jaya Tour & TravelTOURS
(%061-703 2967; www.trijaya-travel.com; Hotel Deli River, Jl Raya Namorambe 129; 2-person tour US$70)
Superb historical city tours as well as themed multiday tours of Sumatra. You can also pick up the book Tours Through Historic Medan and Its Surroundings, written by the company’s owner.
4Sleeping
K77 Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%061-736 7087, 0813 9653 8897; www.k77guesthousemedan.blogspot.com; Jl Seto 6B; dm/r/f from 100,000/200,000/320,000Rp; 
a
W)
The best backpackers in Medan is this homestay in a quiet residential street east of the centre. Spotlessly clean rooms, comfy beds and friendly, helpful hosts Johan and Lola add up to all the things a budget guesthouse should be. The dorm has four single beds; all rooms share bathrooms and have air-con.
Dazhong Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0822 7309 3888; www.dazhongx.com; Jl Muara Takus 28; s/d from 75,000/100,000Rp; W)
One of Medan’s few budget options is this centrally located hostel that gets rave reviews from backpackers. Proud owner Mr Yauw certainly isn’t lacking in confidence, and he strives to ensure his guests are looked after and is a good source of info. Rooms that share bathrooms are a bit cramped and grotty, but the price is right.
Pondok Wisata AngelGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %061-732 0702; pondokwisataangelangel@yahoo.com; Jl SM Raja 70; s with fan 80,000Rp, dm with air-con 80,000Rp, d with fan/air-con 130,000/150,000Rp; aW)
A central backpacker choice near the Mesjid Raya (Grand Mosque), Angel has poky rooms on several floors that are in serious need of some TLC, but are passably clean. A highlight is the sociable downstairs Angel Cafe (map Google map; mains 10,000-50,000Rp; h7am-midnight; W), where you can use wi-fi, strum a guitar and get a cold beer.
Ibis Styles Medan PatimuraHOTEL$$
(%061-8881 2300; www.accorhotels.com; Jl Kapten Pattimura 442; r incl breakfast from 500,000Rp; aW
s)
An excellent choice for those seeking a contemporary, well-priced, midrange hotel with modern amenities and designer touches. The spacious rooms have king-sized beds, modern bathrooms with rainfall showers, minibar, safe, cable TV, fast wi-fi and icy air-con. A pool and gym are added bonuses, and it’s well placed for restaurants, a cinema and handy supermarket for beers and snacks.
Hotel Deli RiverHOTEL$$
(%061-703 2964; www.hotel-deliriver.com; Jl Raya Namorambe 129; r incl breakfast from 720,000Rp; aWs)
This Dutch-colonial-style retreat consists of attractive cottages and rooms shaded by fruit trees and overlooking the Sungai Deli. It’s one for those wanting respite from the city smog while remaining within striking distance (12km) of Medan. It has a wonderfully tranquil setting, with a pool and a lovely restaurant that uses spices sourced from its garden.
Grand Swiss-Belhotel MedanBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(%061-457 6999; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl S Parman 217; d incl breakfast 868,000-1,300,000Rp; a
iWs)
This huge, five-star hotel follows the standard business-class formula of great facilities, an array of different restaurants and a guaranteed good night’s sleep. But it also throws in a see-through, glass-walled swimming pool and floor-to-ceiling windows that offer great city views from the upper floors. It has a classy lobby bar as well as rooftop bar The View (h6pm-1am).
5Eating
Sibolang DurianSTREET FOOD$
(%061-456 8496; www.sibolangdurian.com; Jl Iskandar Muda 75C-D; per piece from 35,000Rp; h24hr)
If you haven’t tried durian, then stop by this ‘aromatic’ open-air eating establishment dedicated to the world’s smelliest fruit. It’s not just some random street vendor, this is a brightly lit neon 24-hour temple to durian, with picnic tables full of locals eagerly scooping out the flesh of this gooey local treat.
Medan VegetarianINDONESIAN, VEGETARIAN$
(map Google map; %061-415 5570; Jl Airlangga 23A-25; per dish 7000Rp; h8am-9pm; a
v)
No more food envy from vegetarians who miss out on those famous Padang dishes – here you’ll get the full array of delicious mock beef rendang, satay chicken and coconut curries, and they nail the taste and texture. As with typical Padang food there’s no menu, so point to the dishes you’re after (no English is spoken).
Socrates Vegan (map Google map; %061-456 8950; Jl Airlangga 14; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon; v) is another vegetarian restaurant a few buildings up that’s more contemporary in style.
Soto KesawanINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; Jl Ahmad Yani; dishes 27,000Rp; h8am-4.30pm)
A local institution that’s been around for some 60 years, this hole-in-the-wall joint is always busy with folk digging into soto kesawan (coconut milk with prawns, chicken, potato and beef offal), a Medan specialty.
Tip Top RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$
(map Google map; %061-451 4442; Jl Ahmad Yani 92; mains 26,000-73,000Rp; h8am-11pm; aW)
One for nostalgia buffs, here at this colonial-era relic only the prices have changed. Medan’s oldest restaurant dates to 1934 and is great for a taste of bygone imperialism, with its regal white-uniformed waiters serving an array of Padang, Chinese and international dishes (though it’s the old-school ice cream and desserts that are most worth trying).
A cold beer on its streetside terrace is another reason to drop by. The big negative here, however, is that shark-fin soup is featured on the menu. Eating shark fin is not recommended, as preparing the dish involves cutting the fin off the shark and then throwing the shark back into the water for it to die a painful and lingering death.
Merdeka WalkSOUTHEAST ASIAN$
(map Google map; Lapangan Merdeka, Jl Balai Kota; dishes 10,000-45,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
Inspired by Singapore’s alfresco dining, this contemporary collection of outdoor eating establishments in Lapangan Merdeka offers everything from doughnut stalls and fast-food chains to breezy sit-down restaurants serving grilled seafood and Malaysian-style noodles. Hours vary but it’s liveliest after 5pm – come for the atmosphere rather than low prices.
The Thirty SixCAFE$$
(map Google map; %061-453 0970; Jl Multatuli 36; mains 38,000-120,000Rp; h11am-midnight; aW)
With its polished concrete floors, low-hanging light bulbs and vertical garden this is one of Medan’s more stylish hang-outs. It does the likes of white truffle fries, seafood mac ‘n’ cheese, buttermilk waffles and pulled roast-beef sandwiches, but, its juicy Big R Burger is the standout. All-day breakfasts are another reason to come, as are the cold beers and specialty coffees.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Level 02ROOFTOP BAR
(%061-4556 6492; Jl Iskandar Muda; h4pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
Channelling a hip Jakarta rooftop bar is this vibrant open-air space that’s a great spot for a balmy evening with Balinese craft beers, wine and well-priced cocktails. The food’s a highlight, with the likes of crab bao, lobster rolls, pub classics and the weekend brunch. There’s an indoors area if you want air-con, plus an on-site wine store.
TradersCOCKTAIL BAR
(Jl Kapten Pattimura 423; hnoon-1am)
With its long and glamorous list of cocktails (135,000Rp) and equally glamorous people, swanky Traders is the place to be seen in Medan. There are cold beers on tap, along with a semi-decent wine list.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Rumah Sakit Columbia Asia (%061-456 6368, 0811 617 1333; www.columbiaasia.com; Jl Listrik 2A; h24hr) The best hospital in the city, with a 24-hour walk-in clinic and pharmacy, as well as English-speaking doctors and specialists. For an ambulance, dial 118.
MONEY
Medan has branches of just about every bank operating in Indonesia, including Bank Indonesia (Jl Balai Kota; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri), BCA Bank (cnr Jl Diponegoro & Jl H Zainal Arifin; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) and BNI Bank (Jl Pemuda; h24hr). Most bank headquarters sit along the junction of Jl Diponegoro and Jl H Zainal Arifin.
POST
Main Post Office (Jl Bukit Barisan; h8am-6pm) In an old Dutch building opposite Lapangan Merdeka.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist Information Centre (Jl Balai Kota, Merdeka Walk; h9am-9pm) Opposite the main post office at the edge of Merdeka Walk is this tiny tourist information booth, which is worth a visit for its city booklet on colonial architecture.
VISA
A 30-day visa on arrival is available at Medan’s airport for most nationalities, but double-check the latest situation before departing.
Kantor Imigrasi Kelas 1 Polonia (%0811 606 9973; http://polonia.imigrasi.go.id; Jl Mangkubumi 2; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) processes visa extensions. These cost 355,000Rp, and technically take three to four working days, and cannot be processed until a few days before your current visa expires. Bring photocopies of your passport and Indonesian visa, as well as your onward ticket.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Kualanamu International Airport (%061-8888 0300; www.kualanamu-airport.co.id) is 39km from the city centre and connected to central Medan by frequent trains and buses.
BUS
There are two major bus terminals in Medan. Purchase tickets from ticket offices outside the terminals.
The Amplas Bus Terminal (Jl SM Raja), which serves Parapat (for Danau Toba) and other southern destinations, is 6.5km south of the city centre. Almost any angkot heading south on Jl SM Raja will get you to Amplas (5000Rp); Grab or Go-Jek taxis are better options, however.
The Pinang Baris Bus Terminal (Jl Pinang Baris), 10km west of the city centre, serves Bukit Lawang, Berastagi and Banda Aceh. However, to avoid aggresive touts at Pinang Baris, travellers are now taking the buses leaving 900m further north at the stop outside Mawar Bakery in Kampung Lalang – so ask to be dropped off there.
Minivans to Singkil and Kutacane (for Ketambe) leave from Padang Bulan Terminal (Jl Jamin Ginting) south of the city centre.
Most lodgings and numerous travel agencies along Jl Katamso can arrange a space for you on a shared door-to-door taxi to popular destinations such as Bukit Lawang (from 120,000Rp), Berastagi (from 120,000Rp), Danau Toba (90,000Rp) and Kutacane (130,000Rp); it’s pricier than a bus but faster and slightly more comfortable.
TRANSPORT FROM MEDAN
Air
| DESTINATION | AIRLINE | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|
| Banda Aceh | Lion Air, Citilink | 4 daily |
| Bandung | Citilink, Lion Air | 3 daily |
| Bangkok | AirAsia | 1 daily |
| Gunung Sitoli | Garuda, Wings Air | 6 daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 42 daily |
| Jambi | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Kuala Lumpur | Batik Air, AirAsia, Lion Air, Malaysia Airlines, Malindo Air | 4-11 daily |
| Padang | Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 3 daily |
| Palembang | AirAsia, Garuda, Lion Air | 2 daily |
| Pekanbaru | Citilink, Lion Air | 4 daily |
| Penang | AirAsia, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air | 8 daily |
| Pulau Batam | Citilink, Lion Air | 6 daily |
| Pulau Simeulue | Wings Air | 1 daily |
| Sibolga | Garuda, Wings Air | 3-4 daily |
| Silangit | Batik Air, Wings Air | 2 daily |
| Singapore | AirAsia, Jetstar, Silk Air, Singapore Airlines | 6-7 daily |
| Surabaya | Lion Air | 1 daily |
| Yogyakarta | AirAsia, Citilink | 2 daily |
Bus
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Banda Aceh | 150,000-330,000 | 12 | several daily |
| Berastagi | 13,000 | 3-4 | numerous daily |
| Bukit Lawang | 30,000 | 4-5 | several daily |
| Bukittinggi | 180,000-290,000 | 16-20 | several daily |
| Kutacane (for Ketambe) | 80,000 | 7 | 1 daily |
| Parapat (for Danau Toba) | 42,000 | 5-6 | several daily |
| Sibolga | 120,000-150,000 | 11 | several daily |
| Singkil | 130,000 | 9 | several daily |
8Getting Around
Grab and Go-Jek online taxis and ojeks are by far the cheapest and fastest ways of getting around town.
Otherwise, hundreds of angkot zip around Medan’s streets and charge 5000Rp to 15,000Rp per ride. A few helpful routes include the white Mr X from Jl SM Raja to Kesawan Sq, Lapangan Merdeka and the train station, and the yellow 64 from Maimoon Palace to Sun Plaza. Becak journeys across the city centre cost between 20,000Rp and 30,000Rp.
TO & FROM THE AIRPORT
The cheapest way to get from the airport to the city is with the frequent Damri shuttle buses (Jl Gatot Subroto 30) departing from in front of the terminal. There are buses to central Medan (20,000Rp), Amplas (15,000Rp) and Binjai (40,000Rp). To the airport, the Damri shuttle departs from the Carrefour at Medan Fair Plaza (20,000Rp) every 15 minutes.
The fastest and most comfortable way to reach central Medan from the airport is by air-conditioned Railink train (%061-456 1331; www.railink.co.id; 100,000Rp, 45 minutes, 4.40am to 11.40pm). From Medan city centre, trains run between 3.30am and 9.10pm. Trains depart roughly every hour.
Taxis from the airport charge a basic fare of 10,000Rp, with an additional 3500Rp per kilometre. A journey to the city centre will cost around 200,000Rp and take an hour depending on traffic.
To the airport with Grab expect to pay around 100,000Rp from the city centre for a taxi, though only drop-offs are allowed.
Paradep Shuttle (%0811 621 2407) has airport buses to Sianta (one way 55,000Rp).
Bukit Lawang
%061 / Pop 2000
Bukit Lawang, 96km northwest of Medan, is a sprawling tourist village laced along the fast-flowing Sungai Bohorok and bordered by the dense vertical-rising jungle of Gunung Leuser National Park. Its legend is built around the orang-utan rehabilitation centre set up here in 1973 and, although the feeding platform has closed, this is still the best place in Sumatra to spot habituated orang-utans on a trek.
Trekking aside, it’s a very traveller-friendly place, where you can while away the days lounging in hammocks, splashing or tubing in the river and enjoying some of the best-value jungle resorts in Sumatra.
1Sights
The vast Gunung Leuser National Park, one of the richest tropical-forest ecosystems in the world, is home to eight species of primates plus tigers, rhinos, elephants and leopards. However, aside from orang-utans, gibbons, various macaque species and the curious Thomas leaf monkey, you’ll be very lucky to see any other large mammals here, as oil-palm plantations extend close to the edge of the village. At weekends, when foreign tourists are joined by masses of domestic visitors, Bukit Lawang can feel rather overrun, so try to arrive on a weekday.
2Activities
Hiking
Treks into the Gunung Leuser National Park require a permit and guide and can last anywhere from three hours to several days. Most people opt for two days so they can spend the night in the jungle, which increases their likelihood of seeing orang-utans and other wildlife. It’s best to hike in the smallest group possible and to set off early.
The best way to book guides is through your guesthouse. Green Hill, On the Rocks and Rainforest Guesthouse in particular are good places to ensure you’ll get a responsible, knowledgable guide.
Orang-utan sightings are highly likely, but not guaranteed. When you do come across them, always remain quiet, don’t use flash photography, keep a safe distance and do not attempt to feed or touch the animals. Not only are orang-utans susceptible to many human illnesses, but those in pursuit of that perfect selfie risk having their backpacks or phones snatched away or even getting attacked. Don’t forget that these are wild, immensely strong animals that can crack your head like a coconut if they wish to: keep your distance.
That said, a sighting of these comical red hairy creatures, swinging freely through the trees, is nothing short of magical, and visitors are often surprised at how close they do come.
Take your time in choosing a guide, as jungle practices are not as regulated as they should be. Talk to returning hikers and decide how much jungle time you really need. People who trek with guides from the village have mainly positive feedback, with the greatest kudos going to the nightly meals and campfire socials. Common complaints include guides who don’t know much about the flora and fauna, the bunching together of trekking groups and the feeding of orang-utans. If you see any guides feeding orang-utans, it’s imperative you report them to the authorities at the Bukit Lawang Visitors Centre.
‘Rafting’ (an extra 165,000Rp per person) back to town, which actually involves sitting on rubber tubes tied together, is a popular option that allows you to trek deeper into the jungle and makes for a fun and relaxing way to finish your trek. Prices include basic meals, guide fees, camping equipment and the park permit. Camping involves a tarpaulin sheet thrown over bamboo poles, with everyone sleeping in the same tent.
Hiking in the jungle is no stroll in the park. You’ll encounter steep, slippery ascents and precipitous drops amid intense humidity, so a good level of fitness is essential. The trails can be well-worn paths or barely visible breaks in the underbrush. Pack at least two bottles of water per day and wear sturdy footwear.
JUNGLE HIKING FEES
Guide rates are fixed by the Sumatra Guide Association and are quoted in euros (though payable in rupiah). Prices are based on a three-person minimum; if there are fewer than three people, then the cost based on three people must be paid in full by the couple or the solo traveller.
| DURATION | COST PER PERSON |
|---|---|
| Half-day | €35 |
| 1 day | €45 |
| 2 days | €80 |
| 3 days | €110 |
| 4 days | €155 |
| 5 days | €190 |
Tubing & Rafting
Giant inflated truck inner tubes can be rented (15,000Rp per day) at several places along the river; carry your tube upstream and ride the Sungai Bohorok rapids back. On weekends the river near the bridge resembles a water theme park, but don’t underestimate the river. Currents are extremely strong, and when the water is high, tubing is officially off limits, though few will tell you this. Avoid the very last section as you approach the village centre.
Guides can also organise full-day rafting trips on the Sungai Wampu for €65 per person.
4Sleeping
Guesthouses along the river offer plenty of rustic charm, and cater more to a backpacker crowd, though there are a few more upmarket options too. The further upriver you go, the more likely you are to spot wildlife from your porch hammock. Across the river are some more laid-back options. Only a few guesthouses have hot water; some provide fans.
oGreen HillGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7034 9124; www.greenhillbukitlawang.com; d with shared bathroom 100,000Rp, d/tr/q with private bathroom 200,000/250,000/300,000Rp,; W) 
S
Run by an English conservation scientist and her Sumatran husband, Green Hill has lovely stilt-high rooms ideal for couples and families, with cool en suite bamboo-shoot showers that afford stunning jungle views while you wash. There’s also a budget room. They also run Kuta Langis Base Camp, a tranquil jungle retreat.
Junia GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 9677 2807; www.juniaguesthouse-bukitlawang.com; r incl breakfast 155,000-570,000Rp)
On the other side of the river from Bukit Lawang’s main settlement is this friendly, mellow guesthouse, which has put some effort into making things sprightly, and features unique bathrooms carved into the rock face. Its choice of nine rooms range from basic fan options to air-con bungalows, and its large restaurant/bar is a cool place to hang out in the evenings.
Ida GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7660 0684; r 80,000-200,000Rp; W)
One of the first guesthouses you’ll encounter along the river access path is this excellent-value, friendly guesthouse, with spotless rooms painted in lime green and with Western bathrooms. Upstairs has outdoor terrace seating overlooking the jungle, and there’s a restaurant by the river for evening beers.
Rainforest GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 6219 9018, 0813 6207 0656; www.rainforestguesthouse.com; d with shared bathroom 50,000Rp, with private bathroom 75,000-200,000Rp, family r 500,000Rp; W)
One of Bukit Lawang’s most popular backpacker places for many a year, Rainforest has a cluster of rooms set close to the gurgling river. The cheaper ones have shared bathrooms, but pricier rooms come with bathrooms and fans. There’s a little restaurant with good local and Western food and river views, and it’s a super place to meet other budget travellers.
The place is still known locally as Nora’s. Nora sadly passed away in 2014, and these days her fun-loving sister Nella, a great source of local info, has taken over.
oOn the RocksBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 6303 1119; www.ontherocksbl.com; r 200,000-500,000Rp, villa 1,000,000Rp; W)
More on the hill than on the rocks, the nine ‘tribal’ huts here verge on being luxurious in a rustic way. Each hut has a verandah and sunken bathroom, and all are shrouded in peace and beautiful jungle views. It’s across the river and a fair hike from Bukit Lawang’s main strip, so it’s a good thing the restaurant serves decent meals.
It’s very kid-friendly, and has easy access to the jungle for treks. It’s run by a German-Indonesian couple and their friendly team of staff.
oBack to NatureGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0821 7055 6999, 0813 7540 0921; www.backtonaturebukitlawang.com; camping 50,000Rp, d 300,000-750,000Rp; W) S
Living up to its name, this lodge is on a gorgeous bend in the river a 45-minute walk from civilisation. Aca, the eco-minded owner, has preserved a giant patch of jungle that was otherwise destined to become an oil-palm plantation, and has built comfortable wooden rooms raised off the ground on stilts, plus private cottages overlooking the jungle, which are perfect for couples.
New luxury rooms were being built in 2018 and will feature outdoor bathtubs with essential oils sourced from medicinal plants in the jungle. Camping is also a good option for budget travellers, and tents can be provided. Treks and pick-ups from Bukit Lawang are also offered.
EcoTravel CottagesLODGE$$
(%0822 7609 2633; www.sumatra-ecotravel.com; r 290,000-640,000Rp; aW)
With huge four-poster beds, immense rooms, hammocks on porches and immaculate hot-water bathrooms, this riverfront lodge combines the ultimate in creature comforts with professionally run tours by Sumatra Ecotravel. Its deck chairs overlooking the river and jungle are great for kicking back. There are only five rooms, so reservations are a good idea.
Kuta Langis Base CampGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0813 7034 9124; Bohorok; per person incl meals & transport 1,500,000Rp, minimum 2-night stay)
On a beautiful tract of fertile land that edges directly onto Gunung Leuser National Park, this rustic hideaway is the place to escape Bukit Lawang’s tourist centre. Set up by the folk from Green Hill, this former oil-palm plantation was built with trekkers in mind, but is also a wonderful place to chill out among nature. It’s about 15km north of town.
Its two rooms are no frills (there’s no wi-fi, TV or modern comforts), which is part of the appeal. The creek at the foot of the property is great for cooling off, and is a launching point for treks into the national park.
5Eating & Drinking
Most guesthouses have their own restaurant offering a menu of both Western and Indonesian dishes. Otherwise there are some decent eating places along the river.
Lawang InnINDONESIAN$
(www.lawanginn.com; mains around 40,000Rp; h7am-10pm; Wv)
Lawang Inn is located in the heart of the Bukit Lawang village, with a menu that comprises large portions of curries and sambal dishes, including good tempe and tofu options for vegetarians. They bake their own bread and do burgers, as well as barbecues if you pre-order. There’s an impressive bar upstairs.
WaterstonesINDONESIAN$$
(www.waterstoneguesthouse.com; mains 75,000Rp; h9am-9pm; W)
This stylish restaurant sits directly on a dramatic bend of the river and features a mishmash of designer furniture and industrial light fittings. While its prices are high for what is fairly standard Indonesian fare, it makes a good spot for a late-afternoon beer and has a tasty rendition of guacamole and chips. There’s live music Tuesday and Friday.
8Information
The nearby village of Gotong Royong is where most facilities can be found. If you arrive by public bus it’s about a 1km walk north to the area where Bukit Lawang’s accommodation begins.
Bukit Lawang Visitors Centre (h7am-3pm) It’s worth dropping in before trekking to see interesting displays of the flora and fauna found in Gunung Leuser National Park.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
There’s a proliferation of guides in Bukit Lawang, and if you haven’t prebooked a tour before your arrival in town, some pesky guides may be keen to escort you to a guesthouse and sign you up for a jungle hike the minute you arrive. Be polite and feel no obligation to book anything unless you want to.
There’s also little reason to sign up for cut-price trekking tours organised by Medan’s budget hotels; everything can be organised within moments of arriving in Bukit Lawang.
MONEY
At the time of research the closest ATMs were in Bohorok, 15km from Bukit Lawang, but given there’s now a convenience store in Bukit Lawang, there’s a good chance it’ll get its own ATM soon.
You’ll find money changers along the strip in the nearby village of Gotong Royong.
8Getting There & Away
Direct public buses depart Medan for Bukit Lawang (30,000Rp, four hours) between 6am and 5pm, terminating at Gotong Royong, from where it’s a becak ride (around 10,000Rp) to the main centre. From Medan, avoid the Pinang Baris bus terminal (notorious for its touts) and instead head 900m north to find the Mawar Bakery in Kampung Lampung, from where orange buses leave every 30 minutes.
From Medan airport you can also take the ALS bus to Binjai (40,000Rp, two hours, every 45 minutes); from Binjai, buses either leave from the Supermall, or you will need to take a becak (20,000Rp) to the Bukit Lawang bus stop, where the orange PB Semesta minibus (30,000Rp to 50,000Rp, two hours) continues to Gotong Royong terminal.
The most hassle-free way to get to Bukit Lawang from Medan is with the tourist minibuses (120,000Rp, three hours, departure around 10am). These offer a door-to-door pick-up service. From Bukit Lawang they leave at around 8am. Tourist minibuses also go to Medan’s Kualanamu International Airport (190,000Rp, around four hours), departing Bukit Lawang daily at 8am.
Tourist minibuses depart for Berastagi (170,000Rp, four to five hours) and Parapat (for Danau Toba; 230,000Rp, six hours), both daily at 8.30am. There’s also a bus to Banda Aceh (350,000Rp, 15½ hours) departing at 2.30pm.
Bukit Lawang is also a handy jumping off-point for day trips or onward travel to Tangkahan. Chartering a private vehicle (one way/return 600,000/750,000Rp) is by far the best way, otherwise you’ll have to head to Binjai, from where you can get a connecting bus to Tangkahan (25,000Rp), which will take a full day.
By private car expect to pay around 600,000Rp to Medan, 800,000Rp to Berastagi and 1,200,000Rp to Danau Toba.
Tangkahan
A low-key alternative to the Bukit Lawang tourist scene, tiny, remote Tangkahan sits on the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, and offers wonderful opportunities for jungle trekking, river tubing and spotting orang-utan during fruit season. However, it’s developed a reputation as a place for elephant interaction, with some 10 elephants kept as part of a post-logging conservation program.
Tangkahan is not so much a village as a bus stop, a park entrance and a handful of basic riverside bungalows on the wild banks of the Sungai Kualsa Buluh.
2Activities
A popular activity with both locals and visitors is renting a rubber tube (10,000Rp) and floating down the shallow river below Jungle Lodge and Dreamland Resort. Longer tubing adventures (180,000Rp, including lunch and transport) can be arranged at the CTO Visitor Centre.
Jungle HikesHIKING
The CTO Visitor Centre can arrange a guide to take you hiking in the Gunung Leuser National Park. A 2½-hour ‘taster’ is 694,400Rp for two people, while the full-day option is 1,452,000Rp for three people, which includes park permits. Good footwear is a must; prepare to get very muddy.
Elephant InteractionWILDLIFE
(elephant bathing 250,000Rp; helephant bathing 8.30am & 3.30pm Sat-Thu, elephant grazing 8.30am & 1.30pm)
For most travellers, the elephants are the main draw in Tangkahan. While elephant rides are available, they’re considered by many animal-welfare groups to be harmful to the animals, so opt for other activities such as giving them their daily bath. On Fridays and public holidays there are no elephant-based activities. Book directly through the CTO Visitor Centre.
There are also ‘Exploring with Elephants’ tours (per person 750,000Rp), where you walk alongside them in the jungle and watch them graze, as well as bathe them.
Note that elephants (even ‘domesticated’ ones) kill hundreds of people every year and you should exercise extreme caution in their vicinity.
4Sleeping
Dreamland ResortBUNGALOW$
(%0812 6963 1400; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp; a)
Run by two friendly young brothers who speak good English, Dreamland has three appealing A-frame cottages with private bathrooms sitting partially hidden amid lush greenery. Its boutique cafe gives you a spectacular bird’s-eye view of the river, with a full bar and board games available. It’s accessed via the suspension bridge, on the right side of Mega Inn, through the fruit plantation.
Jungle LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7633 4787; www.junglelodge.de; r 150,000-200,000Rp, family r 300,000Rp; W)
This German-Indonesian-run resort is the pick of Tangkahan’s riverfront accommodation, with modern bungalows in sprawling clifftop gardens – the best have balconies with great views of the river below. The large, thatched restaurant overlooking the bubbling river is a fine place to hang out. The nearby stairs lead directly down to the river and hot spring for swimming.
8Information
CTO Visitor Centre (%0852 7560 5865; www.tangkahanecotourism.com; h8am-5pm) Near the bus stop in the centre of the village, the visitor centre organises everything from elephant bathing to jungle treks, tubing and caving; pay your fees here.
The closest ATM is 12km south of Tangkahan in an isolated location set up for palm-oil workers.
8Getting There & Away
Tangkahan is not particularly easy to get to; it’s accessed by terrible, unsealed roads for the most part. Five direct morning buses go from Medan’s Pinang Baris terminal (50,000Rp including baggage, four hours).
From Bukit Lawang you could take a bus to Binjai, then connect to one of the twice-daily buses directly to Tangkahan (50,000RP, four hours). If you’re travelling solo, get a guide to take you directly from Bukit Lawang on a motorbike (one way/return 250,000/300,000Rp, two hours) – but be warned that the road is unpaved and it’s an uncomfortable ride. Alternatively, team up with other travellers to hire a 4WD (600,000Rp to 700,000Rp, 2½ hours) from either Medan or Bukit Lawang.
Berastagi & Around
%0628 / Pop 44,800
At an altitude of 1300m, Berastagi is a cool mountain retreat and market town, established by colonial Dutch traders escaping the heat of sea-level Medan.
Since it’s only two hours out of Medan, it’s a popular retreat on weekends, when main-street traffic almost comes to a standstill. For travellers the main attraction is climbing active volcano Gunung Sibayak and exploring the surrounding Karo Highlands and villages, where vestiges of indigenous Karo Batak culture remain in the shape of the immense wooden houses with soaring thatched roofs and cattle-horn adornments.
On a clear day you can see both Gunung Sinabung to the west and the smoking Gunung Sibayak to the north. Sinabung erupted without much warning in the summer of 2015, causing the evacuation of thousands of people residing on its foothills. It still erupts intermittently and is indefinitely off limits to hikers.
1Sights
1Berastagi
St Francis of Assisi Catholic ChurchCHURCH
(Jl Sakti Giri; h24hr)
Definitely not your everyday church, St Francis of Assisi is built in a monumental Karo Batak style, with a traditional multitiered pointed-roof design topped with buffalo horns. The interior features stained-glass windows and an impressive soaring ceiling. Sunday mass (8am to 11am) has a gospel-style service. Also on the grounds is a traditional Karo house relocated from Dokan, which features some interesting photography and cultural relics.
Museum Pusaka KaroMUSEUM
(Jl Perwira 3; adult/child 5000/1000Rp; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)
Set up inside the old Catholic church (c 1956) is this central museum, across from the tourist information centre, with beautifully presented displays on Karo culture and crafts, including weaponry, costumes, instruments such as gongs and traditional padung padung (earrings). Check out the scale model of the traditional Karo house. All captions are in English.
1Around Berastagi
oGunung SibayakVOLCANO
(10,000Rp)
Gunung Sibayak (2094m) is one of Indonesia’s most accessible volcanoes. A guide is only really essential if you’re taking the route through the jungle, but if you’re trekking alone it’s still a very good idea as the weather can change quickly; a German tourist got lost and perished here in 2017. The hike can be done in five hours return, and you should set out as early as possible.
Getting to the summit for sunrise is a popular time to go, but you’ll have to take private transport at that hour, or you’ll need to camp overnight.
If you’re walking from Berastagi, guides can be booked at the tourist office and guesthouses for 200,000Rp (for up to three people, three hours walk one way). Otherwise, you can charter a vehicle part of the way for around 500,000Rp (four to five people), from where it’s a one-hour walk from the carpark – this is by far the best option for sunrise. Solo travellers can request they join an existing group to keep costs down.
The easiest way is to take the track that starts to the northwest of Berastagi, a 10-minute walk past the Sibayak Multinational Resthouse. Take the left-hand path beside the hut where you pay the entrance fee. From here, it’s a 7km route (about three hours) to the top and fairly easy to follow, mostly along a road.
Rather than trekking from Berastagi, you can catch one of the green Kama minibuses (4000Rp) to the base of the volcano, from where it’s a two-hour climb to the summit. The first bus is at 7am. There are steps part of the way, but this track is narrower and in poorer condition than the one from Berastagi.
The longest option, which should be done with a guide, is to trek through the jungle from Air Terjun Panorama; this waterfall is on the Medan road, about 5km north of Berastagi. Allow at least five hours for the walk from here.
Trails on Gunung Sibayak are neither clearly marked nor well maintained, and it is easy to get lost. During wet season, paths can be extremely slippery or even washed out. Be prepared for abrupt weather changes and bring supplies including food, drinks, warm clothing, rain gear and a torch, in case you get caught out after dark. Before setting out, pick up a map from any of the guesthouses in Berastagi and peruse their guestbooks for comments and warnings about the hike. Don’t forget to pack your swimmers and a towel so you can enjoy the hot springs on the way down.
Gunung SinabungVOLCANO
While today it’s one of the most active volcanoes on the planet, remarkably Gunung Sinabung lay dormant for over 400 years until its dramatic eruption in 2010. At the time of research it remained strictly off limits for tourists, as well as for the thousands of locals who remain unable to return to their homes (turning the abandoned villages into ghost towns). Since 2010 it has remained extremely volatile, erupting periodically each year, with 23 people being killed in that time.
While the 5km exclusion zone prohibits anyone from getting close (although almost all tour operators arrange trips to the abandoned villages), you will be able to get good views of the volcano from Berastagi, particularly if it’s erupting, when you’ll be able to witness its lava flow.
LinggaVILLAGE
(h8am-5pm)
The most visited of the villages around Berastagi, Lingga, a few kilometres northwest of Kabanjahe, has just a couple of traditional houses with characteristic soaring thatched roofs topped with cattle horns. There’s a 5000Rp fee if you want to go inside the houses. To get here, take a yellow KT minibus from Berastagi (7000Rp, 45 minutes). Some only go as far as Kabanjahe, so check first if you’ll have to change.
Museum KarolinggaMUSEUM
(off Jl Kiras Bangun, Lingga; entry by donation; h7am-8pm)
On the road leading into the village of Lingga is this interesting little museum inside a traditional building with displays on Karo culture and artefacts. If the weather’s clear, you’ll get a good photo op with Gunung Sinabung looming in the background. Across the road is a fascinating church, also built in a traditional Karo design.
Air Terjun Sipiso-PisoWATERFALL
(map; adult/child 4000/2000Rp; h8am-6pm)
These narrow but impressive falls cascade 120m down to the northern end of Danau Toba, 24km from Kabanjahe and about 300m from the main road. It’s worth a photo stop en route between Berastagi and Toba, or as part of a tour, but not necessarily as a trip in its own right. There’s a panoramic viewpoint at the car park, otherwise it’s a 45-minute-return walk down the stairs for a closer look.
Take the Bintang Karo bus from Berastagi (8000Rp, one hour).
DokanVILLAGE
The charming village of Dokan is around 16km south of Kabanjahe. Some half a dozen traditional houses can be found here and they’re all occupied, which makes the place more interesting than any of the museum-like traditional buildings you might have seen elsewhere. However, as they remain family homes you’re unlikely to be invited inside to look around. You can get here by the occasional direct minibus from Kabanjahe (7000Rp).
Rumah BolonPALACE
(map; Pematang Purba; 3000Rp; h9am-5pm)
Located between Berastagi and Danau Toba, this impressive, well-tended palace complex sits on the edge of the village of Pematang Purba. It was the home of the Simalungan Batak chiefs until the last one died in 1947. It’s a peaceful site to explore and you can go inside a number of the magnificent traditional buildings. Most people visit as part of a tour from Berastagi, but otherwise you can take an angkot to Kabanjaje (5000Rp), from where there are connections to Rumah Bolon (10,000Rp).
Taman Alam LumbiniBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(www.tamanalamlumbini.org; off Jl Barusjahe; h9am-5pm)
Located 6km east of Berastagi, this gleaming golden Buddhist temple is a replica of the famous Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar. You’ll need to arrange a taxi or ojek to get here.
1Semangat Gunung
On the descent from Gunung Sibayak, you can stop off at the various hot springs in Semangat Gunung, on the road towards Berastagi. You’ll be disappointed if you’re expecting natural springs; instead, you’ll find a complex of small concrete pools – but the forested outlooks are lovely. Have a look at a few to decide on which is the nicest; Mitra Sibayak (5000Rp) is probably the most scenic and is open 24 hours.
They are best visited on the weekend; on weekdays public transport stops at around 3pm or 4pm and you may face a long walk to the main road. To get here you can take the yellow KT minibus from Berastagi (6000Rp, 30 minutes).
4Sleeping
oNachelle HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 6242 9977, 0821 6275 7658; www.nachellehomestay.wordpress.com; Jl Veteran; r with shared bathroom 190,000-220,000Rp, with private bathroom 280,000-400,000Rp; W)
By far the most traveller-friendly place in Berastagi, Nachelle Homestay is run by Mery and Abdy, who speak excellent English and will issue you with a map. Rooms are modern, superclean and comfortable, and there’s a rooftop terrace with views of Sinabung. It has an unconventional location set back from the main road with no sign; call for directions.
The tours with Abdy, who has an excellent knowledge of the region and Karo culture, are worth doing.
Wisma SibayakGUESTHOUSE$
(%0628-91104; Jl Udara 1; r with shared bathroom 60,000-80,000Rp, with private bathroom 150,000Rp; iW)
This centrally located guesthouse has a prim, old-school feel – there’s a 10pm curfew and extra cost for hot showers – but the cheapest rooms really are cheap, and the better ones are clean and spacious. There’s also an inviting little restaurant with cold beers and a menu catering to backpackers, making this one of the best choices for independent travellers.
Losmen Sibayak GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0628-91122; dicksonpelawi@yahoo.com; Jl Veteran 119; r with shared/private bathroom from 75,000/100,000Rp; iW)
Behind Sibayak Trans Tour & Travel, this longstanding cheapie has rooms that have a lot of Indonesian personality, making the place feel more like a homestay. The best rooms come with hot water (150,000Rp). Wi-fi is in the lobby.
LOCAL SPECIALITIES
Rich volcanic soils in the surrounding countryside supply produce to North Sumatra, which passes through Berastagi’s markets. Local specialities include passionfruit and marquisa Bandung (large, sweet, yellow-skinned fruit), plus marquisa asam manis (purple-skinned fruit), which make delicious drinks.
Berastagi is a largely Christian community, so you can get babi (pork) here, including the Karo dish babi panggang Karo (BPK; barbecued pork and rice, served with banana flower or cassava leaves, green chilli sauce, soup and pig blood).
Another local favourite is pisang goreng (fried banana).
5Eating & Drinking
BPK Rumah GergaINDONESIAN$
(Jl Veteran; meals 20,000Rp; h10am-6.30pm)
A good place to sample local Karo cuisine is this shack restaurant with wood-crate-panelled walls decorated in murals. The speciality here is BPK (babi panggang Karo).
Try to get here before 5pm as they sometimes sell out of food. It’s close to Nachelle Homestay, otherwise it’s a 15-minute walk from the giant cabbage monument.
Rumah Makan EropahCHINESE$
(Jl Veteran 20; mains 20,000-60,000Rp; h8am-8pm; v)
Feast on pork-belly soup, pork with green chilli, sweet and sour fish, fresh vegetables or a host of noodle and rice dishes at this welcoming Chinese place. Cold beer is available.
Sibayak CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0821 6301 8989; Jl Veteran 121; mains 20,000-85,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
Next to Losmen Sibayak Guesthouse, this bright, modern, open-fronted place is where a youthful crowd meets for pizza and smoothies or ice-cold Bintangs. It also does jaffles, sandwiches and mie goreng (fried noodles) and the like.
Kopi Ta KopikaroCOFFEE
(Jl Veteran; h7.30am-6pm)
This cool little cafe plays local indie music and serves excellent coffee using beans sourced locally (and from across Indonesia), made by friendly baristas who know their stuff. It also does simple local meals.
8Information
Some recommended places for onward travel advice as well as local tours are Sibayak Trans Tour & Travel (%0628-91122; dicksonpelawi@yahoo.com; Jl Veteran 119; h7am-10pm), Nachelle Homestay and the tourist information centre (%0628-91084, 0852 9752 4725; Jl Gundaling 1; h7.30am-6pm).
There are ATMs and banks halfway between the giant cabbage landmark and the war monument on Jl Veteran.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Jl Veteran) is conveniently located in the town centre. Long-distance buses pass through Berastagi en route to Kabanjahe, the local hub. You can catch buses to Medan’s Padang Bulan (13,000Rp, three to four hours) anywhere along the main street between 6am and 8pm. There’s also an Almasar bus that goes to Medan’s airport (40,000Rp) departing every two hours.
The cheapest way to reach Danau Toba is to catch an angkot to Kabanjahe (5000Rp, 20 minutes), change to a bus for Pematangsiantar (20,000Rp, 2½ hours), then connect with a Parapat-bound bus (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). There are no direct buses for Bukit Lawang, so take a bus to Medan’s Pinang Baris (the stop at Mawar Bakery; 13,000Rp, two to four hours) and change for Bukit Lawang (30,000Rp, five hours). Berastagi is the southern approach for visits to Gunung Leuser National Park; catch a bus to Kutacane (50,000Rp) from where it’s a 20,000Rp bus ride to Ketambe. Otherwise a shared taxi departs Berastagi at 2pm for Ketambe (250,000Rp).
Several private companies run a shared minibus or car service, connecting Berastagi to Medan’s Padang Bulan (100,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Medan’s Kualanamu International Airport (150,000Rp, three hours); Bukit Lawang (150,000Rp, three to four hours) at 8am and 2pm; and Danau Toba (to Parapat; 150,000Rp, 3½ to four hours) at 1pm.
8Getting Around
Angkot to the surrounding villages leave from the bus terminal. They run every few minutes between Berastagi and Kabanjahe (5000Rp), the major population and transport centre of the highlands. You can wave them down anywhere along the main road.
Parapat
%0625 / Pop 5500
The mainland departure point for Danau Toba, Parapat is a lakeside town with a handful of hotels, restaurants and travel agents. Unless you arrive too late to catch a boat to Tuk Tuk, there’s no reason to overnight here.
The commercial sector of this cramped town is clumped along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy (Jl SM Raja) and has banks, ATMs and plenty of basic eating places. Most buses and minibuses pick up and drop off passengers at ticket agents along the highway or at the pier.
4Sleeping & Eating
The highway strip (Jl SM Raja) is well equipped to feed the passing traveller, and there are a handful of restaurants near the boat dock.
Melissa PalaceHOTEL$
(%0813 9223 6383; Jl Nelson Purba 28; r incl breakfast 200,000-265,000Rp; W)
A welcoming cheapie with spacious, comfortable rooms (but temperamental plumbing) and a rooftop hang-out: watch out for monkeys. It’s ideal for catching the morning ferry if you get in too late to catch the last boat to Tuk Tuk.
8Getting There & Around
BUS
The bus terminal (Jl SM Raja) is about 2km east of town, but it’s infrequently used by travellers. From here you could, however, make your way by public bus to Berastagi (48,000Rp, five hours, via Pematang Siantar and then Kabanjahe), Medan (42,000Rp, five to six hours) and Sibolga (70,000Rp, seven hours).
PT Bagus Holidays (%0813 6113 5704, 0813 9638 0170) is one of several operators next to the ferry pier that arranges tourist minibuses and car transfers to the most popular destinations. Don’t think these are quick trips though – the long-distance journeys are longer and more cramped than equivalent bus journeys. Tourist minibuses go to Medan (90,000Rp, five hours), Berastagi (140,000Rp, 3½ hours), Bukittinggi (190,000Rp to 290,000Rp, 19 hours), Bukit Lawang (180,000Rp, seven hours), Padang (180,000Rp to 280,000Rp, 18 hours) and Sibolga (150,000Rp, six hours).
A car to Medan is about 600,000Rp.
Angkot run constantly between the ferry dock and the bus terminal (3000Rp).
Danau Toba
%0625 / Pop 131,000
Danau Toba has been part of traveller folklore for decades. This grand ocean-blue lake, found up among Sumatra’s volcanic peaks, is where the amiable Christian Batak people reside. The secret of this almost mythical place was opened up by intrepid travellers years ago. While these days Tuk Tuk – the knobby village on the lake’s inner island – is on the beaten Sumatran overland path, it’s still one of the undisputed highlights of central Sumatra.
Danau Toba is the largest lake in Southeast Asia, covering a massive 1707 sq km. In the middle of this huge expanse is Pulau Samosir, a wedge-shaped island almost as big as Singapore that was created by an eruption between 30,000 and 75,000 years ago. In fact, Samosir isn’t actually an island at all. It’s linked to the mainland by a narrow isthmus at the town of Pangururan – and then cut again by a canal.
1Sights
King Sidabutar’s GraveHISTORIC SITE
(Tomok; entry by donation; hdawn-dusk)
Located 5km southeast of Tuk Tuk, near the Tomok ferry terminal, is a complex of royal Batak tombs. At the entrance you’ll pass sarcophagi of royal members and family, but to find the tomb of King Sidabutar you’ll need to go 500m past the souvenir stalls and look for the sign. Close by are some well-preserved traditional Batak houses and the Museum Tomok, which has interesting displays of Batak artefacts.
Batak GravesHISTORIC SITE
(map)
Amid the fertile rice fields between Simanindo and Pangururan are these large multistorey graves decorated with the distinctive miniature Batak-style house and a simple white cross. Batak graves reflect the animistic attitudes of sheltering the dead (who are dug out 10 to 15 years after their original internment and reburied after the polishing of the bones).
Museum Huta Bolon SimanindoMUSEUM
(map; Simanindo; 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm)
At Samosir’s northern tip, in the village of Simanindo, 15km north of Tuk Tuk, there’s a beautifully restored traditional house that now functions as a museum. It was formerly the home of Rajah Simalungun, a Batak king, and his 14 wives. The roof was originally decorated with 10 buffalo horns, representing the 10 generations of the dynasty. There’s also a complex of traditional houses, where traditional Batak dances are performed at 10.30am and 11.45am Monday to Saturday and 11.45am Sunday.
Stone ChairsHISTORIC SITE
(map; Ambarita; 10,000Rp, guide 50,000Rp; h7am-6pm)
In the village of Ambarita, 5km north of Tuk Tuk, is a group of 300-year-old stone chairs, where important matters were discussed among village elders. Here wrongdoers were tried and led to a further group of stone furnishings where they were bound, blindfolded, sliced, rubbed with garlic and chilli, and then beheaded. Rumours abound that this story is the product of an overactive imagination and that the chairs are just 60 years old. There are also eight Batak houses here.
2Activities
Cycling & Motorcycling
Pulau Samosir’s sleepy roads make the island perfect for exploring by motorbike or bicycle. Zipping through the scenic countryside enclosed by lush volcanic mountains and stunning Danau Toba is the highlight for many who visit. The rice paddies and friendly villages are cultivated around sober Protestant-style churches and tombs merging traditional Batak architecture and Christian crosses.
For panoramic views of the entire lake, head up the winding road to Pusuk Buhit (map; Holy Mountain), just to the west of Pulau Samosir.
Swimming
Danau Toba reaches a depth of 450m in places and is refreshingly cool. The best swimming on the south coast is said to be at Carolina Cottages, and many cottages on the north coast maintain weed-free swimming. There are also a couple of attractive beaches on Samosir’s north coast. Unfortunately jet skis and jet boats are a bit of a blight on the otherwise tranquil scenery.
Hiking
There are several worthwhile hikes on Pulau Samosir and around Danau Toba. The trails aren’t well marked and can be difficult to find, so check with your guesthouse about which ones are doable and ask for a map. In wet season (December to March) the steep inclines are very muddy and slippery.
The central highlands of Samosir are about 700m above the lake and on a clear day afford stunning views of mist-cloaked mountains. The top of the escarpment forms a large plateau and at its heart is a small lake, Danau Sidihoni. Much of the plateau is covered with cinnamon, clove and coffee plantations, interspersed with pine forest and the odd waterfall.
Guides aren’t essential but they are a good idea if you’re alone, as visitors have gotten lost in the past. The going rate is around 200,000Rp; Liberta Homestay can help arrange one. Otherwise Tabo Cottages offers more specialised trekking tours.
TTours & Courses
Tabo Cottages ToursCULTURAL
(map; %0625-451318; www.tabocottages.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; 2-person tours 600,000-1,200,000Rp)
Tabo Cottages runs specialty tours with themes that include Batik culture, cycling, food and coffee. They are also developing signed hiking trails across Pulau Samosir. Prices are for two people and include lunch. Spaces are limited and guests staying at the cottages are given priority.
Juwita CafeCOOKING
(map; %0625-451217; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; 1/2/3/4 dishes 250,000/325,000/350,000/375,000Rp)
Friendly matriarch and owner Heddy hosts cooking courses during which you’ll learn a few Batak-inspired Indonesian recipes using a choice of vegetarian, chicken or fish ingredients. Courses last around 2½ hours and you’ll get to eat whatever you’ve cooked. Book a day in advance.
THE BATAKS
British traveller William Marsden astonished the ‘civilised’ world in 1783 when he returned to London with an account of a cannibalistic kingdom in the interior of Sumatra that, nevertheless, had a highly developed culture and a system of writing. The Bataks have been a subject of fascination ever since.
The Bataks are a Proto-Malay people descended from neolithic mountain tribes from northern Thailand and Myanmar (Burma) who were driven out by migrating Mongolian and Siamese tribes. When the Bataks arrived in Sumatra they trekked inland, making their first settlements around Danau Toba, where the surrounding mountains provided a natural protective barrier. They lived in virtual isolation for centuries.
The Bataks were among the most warlike peoples in Sumatra, and villages were constantly feuding. They were so mistrustful that they did not build or maintain natural paths between villages, or construct bridges. The practice of ritual cannibalism, which involved eating the flesh of a slain enemy or a person found guilty of a serious breach of adat (traditional law), survived among the Toba Bataks until 1816.
Today there are more than six million Bataks, divided into six main linguistic groups, and their lands extend 200km north and 300km south of Danau Toba. Technically they are only supposed to marry other Bataks (if outside their own clan), but over the years several foreigners have married in; they had to be ‘adopted’ by a Batak clan first.
The Bataks have long been squeezed between the Islamic strongholds of Aceh and West Sumatra, and despite several Acehnese attempts to conquer and convert, it was the European missionaries who finally quelled them with Christianity.
The majority of today’s Bataks are Protestant Christians, although many still practise elements of traditional animist belief and ritual, particularly when it comes to honouring dead ancestors, who are buried in elaborate tombs and dug up after 10 to 15 years so that their bones can be cleaned, polished and reburied. The Bataks also believe the banyan to be the tree of life; they tell a legend of their omnipotent god Ompung, who created all living creatures by dislodging decayed branches of a huge banyan into the sea.
Music is a great part of Batak culture and a Batak man is never far from his guitar. The Bataks are also famous for their powerful and emotive hymn singing. Most of their musical instruments are similar to those found elsewhere in Indonesia – cloth-covered copper gongs in varying sizes struck with wooden hammers; a small two-stringed violin, which makes a pure but harsh sound; and a kind of reedy clarinet.
zFestivals & Events
Danau Toba FestivalCULTURAL
This week-long festival features Batak cultural performances, with canoe races being the highlight. The month it’s held varies year to year, so check ahead.
4Sleeping
oLiberta HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(map; %0625-451035; liberta_homestay@yahoo.co.id; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; r with shared bathroom 44,000Rp, with private bathroom 66,000-88,000Rp; W)
This backpacker fave close to the ferry dock has limited lake views, but a chill universe is created by a lush garden and arty versions of traditional Batak houses. Crawling around the garden paths, balconies and shortened doors of the rooms is cool, there’s a good cafe, and the popular Mr Moon and Freddy are great sources of travel information.
Romlan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map; %0822 7685 5722, 0625-451386; www.romlantuktuk.com; Tuk Tuk; r with shared bathroom 50,000-135,000Rp, with private bathroom 160,000Rp; aW)
Run by a German-Indonesian family, this waterfront guesthouse is one of the original places to stay in Tuk Tuk and it’s still going strong. Choose between a Western-style room with hot shower and verandah, one of two traditional Batak houses, or save your pennies in the budget room.
There’s no sign, so look out for Hotel Sumber Pulo Mas, which it shares a driveway with, or better yet ask the ferry to drop you directly at its doorstep.
Bagus Bay HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(map; %0823 6822 9003, 0625-451287; www.bagusbay.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; s with shared bathroom from 50,000Rp, d 100,000-300,000Rp; iW)
Rooms in traditional Batak houses overlook avocado trees, a children’s playground and a grassy badminton court at this excellent budget resort. The more expensive rooms come with hot water and lake views, and pot plants add a nice green touch. At night its restaurant, which has Batak dance at 8.15pm on Wednesday and Saturday, is a lively spot for travellers to congregate.
It has a well-stocked bar, pool table and motorbikes for rent (per day 70,000Rp).
Merlyn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map; %0813 6116 9130; merlynguesthouse@mail.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; r 100,000-150,000Rp; W)
On the lakeshore is this old-school Danau Toba–style guesthouse run by an Indonesian-German couple. The cheaper rooms are in traditional, character-filled wooden Batak houses with dwarf-sized doors and shared bathrooms, otherwise there are modern rooms in sunny colours with hot-water bathrooms. All look out to the lake and well-maintained garden.
Harriara GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map; %0813 7539 7765, 0625-451183; harriaraguesthouse88@gmail.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; r 200,000-300,000Rp; W)
This guesthouse has a top-notch lakeside setting, riotous tropical flower gardens and sparkling rooms with mosquito nets and porches overlooking the water. There’s good swimming from the front lawn. If there’s nobody at the reception ask at the restaurants across the road.
oTabo CottagesRESORT$$
(map; %0625-451318; www.tabocottages.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; r incl breakfast 390,000-490,000Rp, cottage 680,000-750,000Rp; aiWs)
The most stylish accommodation on Pulau Samosir is this sprawling German-run lakeside place that has the feel and professionalism of a laid-back resort. Rooms are inside blocks of beautiful Batak-style buildings, with huge bathrooms and hammocks, and there’s a superb lakefront pool. Owner Annette is a treasure trove of information on Batak culture.
The homemade bread and cakes at the attached German bakery are worth a stop. They also roast their own coffee beans, which are grown on the island. Their tours are another highlight.
oHoras Family HomeCOTTAGE$$$
(map; %0813 6105 1419, 0813 6206 0838; www.holidaysumatra.com; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; family cottages 700,000-1,000,000Rp; aWs)
Horas Family Home is perfect for those wanting a homely space with cooking facilities, and is a unique option for those seeking something different. Best is its gorgeous, renovated traditional Batak house, with original furnishings and self-contained modern facilities. Dutch-Indonesian hosts Berend and Mian are exceptionally helpful and knowledgable about Batak culture.
The superb food options include fresh fish, freshwater prawns, wild pork and forest snake, and there’s a fish pond from where you can catch your dinner for free. Organic vegetables are grown in the garden, and you’re free to pick them yourself.
A swimming pool and kayaks round out the experience. Also be sure to admire Berend’s impressive collection of orchids. Transfers and tours can be organised on request.
MAGIC MUSHROOMS
Magic or ‘special’ omelettes used to be common on restaurant menus but these days their availability is more discreet. We probably don’t need to tell you that the mushrooms contained in these are not of the sort that you can buy at your local supermarket, and should be treated with caution or avoided completely. Though you will see signs advertising them on the street in Tuk Tuk, it is important to understand they are technically illegal.
5Eating
Lots of resorts and guesthouses in Tuk Tuk have their own restaurants, but there are some very good independent places as well, many serving the Batak specialty of barbecued carp (most from fish farms), along with Indonesian and Western fare.
Poppy’s RestaurantINDONESIAN$
(map; %0813 6123 9828; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; mains 30,000-55,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
An old-school traveller hang-out, Poppy’s has fantastic lake views that make it the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer. It has a classic Toba menu of Indonesian mains, grilled fish and pizza, along with friendly staff, a book exchange and very cheap rooms (100,000Rp) looking out to the water.
Borobudur HouseVEGAN, ICE CREAM$
(map; Martoba, Samosir; mains 35,000-55,000Rp; h10am-6pm; v)
The Buddhist shrines scattered about set the mood at this waterfront cafe that specialises in vegan cuisine. Expect the likes of potato rendang, tofu steaks, and guacamole dips with homemade chips. However, it’s most famous for its delicious homemade sorbet (25,000Rp) in flavours including durian, dragon fruit and pineapple.
Today’s CafeINTERNATIONAL$
(map; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk 30, Tuk Tuk; mains 20,000-65,000Rp; h9am-10pm; Wv)
This little wooden shack has a laid-back vibe that’s in keeping with Tuk Tuk life. It’s run by a couple of friendly ladies who whip up some fabulous and eclectic dishes such as saksang (chopped pork with brown coconut sauce, cream and a wealth of spices), aubergine curry and chapatis with guacamole. Homemade yoghurt is a hit for breakfast. Also does beers and spirits.
oJenny’s RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
(map; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; mains 44,000-80,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Jenny’s has long been a standout on the northern edge of Tuk Tuk, with all kinds of breakfasts, noodles, curries and rice dishes. But the one dish that really shines is the lake fish grilled on charcoal right in front of you and served with chips and salad – available from 6pm. Follow it up with the generously portioned fruit pancake.
Cold beer and arak cocktails are on the menu.
oMarubaINDONESIAN$$
(map; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; mains 35,000-95,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm)
Tucked away between the Amartoba Hotel and Rodeo guesthouse, Maruba is well worth seeking out for its peerless Batak dishes cooked by the talented proprietor. Freshwater lobster, na neura (raw fish marinated with candlenut, lime juice and spices) and saksang are real local treats. A range of burgers and sandwiches feature homemade bread and baguettes.
BATAK PUPPET DANCE
A purely Batak tradition is the Sigalegale puppet dance, once performed at funerals but now more often a part of wedding ceremonies. The life-sized puppet, carved from the wood of a banyan tree, is dressed in the traditional costume of red turban, loose shirt and blue sarong. The Sigalegale stand up on long, wooden boxes where the operator makes them dance to gamelan (percussion orchestra) music accompanied by flute and drums.
One story of the origin of the Sigalegale puppet concerns a widow who lived on Samosir. Bereft and lonely after the death of her husband, she made a wooden image of him and whenever she felt lonely hired a dalang (puppeteer and storyteller) to make the puppet dance and a dukun (mystic) to communicate with the soul of her husband.
Whatever its origins, the Sigalegale soon became part of Batak culture and were used at funeral ceremonies to revive the souls of the dead and to communicate with them. Personal possessions of the deceased were used to decorate the puppet, and the dukun would invite the deceased’s soul to enter the wooden puppet as it danced on top of the grave.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Brando’s Blues BarBAR
(map; %0852 3822 0226, 0625-451084; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; hnoon-late)
One of a handful of genuine bars in Tuk Tuk, with pool tables and occasional live bands, that gets particularly lively on weekends. Happy hour is a civilised 6pm to 10pm and you can take to the small dance floor during the reggae and house sets.
Roy’s PubLIVE MUSIC
(map; %0812 6456 6363, 0821 7417 4576; Jl Lingkar Tuktuk, Tuk Tuk; h9pm-2am Tue, Thu & Sat; W)
The best nights out on Pulau Samosir are the Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday live-music nights (normally with local rock bands) at Roy’s, a graffiti-splattered building with a dancing vibe. Great, alcohol-fuelled fun.
7Shopping
In Tuk Tuk’s many souvenir shops, look for local Gayo embroidery made into a range of bags, cushion covers and place mats.
Around Tuk Tuk, woodcarvers sell figures, masks, boxes and porhalaan (traditional Batak calendars made of wood and buffalo bone). You’ll also find traditional musical instruments and elaborately carved totem poles that untwist into several sections for easier transport.
8Information
There are ATMs in Ambarita (h24hr), Tomok (Jl Pulau Samosir) and Pangururan, with the Mandiri Bank ATM (Jl Lingkar Tuktuk) in Tuk Tuk the most convenient for tourists.
Foreign-exchange rates at the island’s hotels and money changers are pretty awful.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Silangit International Airport (www.silangit-airport.co.id/en), located 77km south of Parapat, receives daily flights from Medan (30 minutes) and Jakarta (two hours). If flying from Medan, keep in mind that given it’s a further two-hour taxi drive to Parapat (around 400,000Rp), you’ll only really be saving a couple of hours. Direct flights from Singapore are planned in the future.
| Destination | Airline | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Medan | Wings Air | daily |
| Jakarta | Batik Air, Citilink, Sriwijaya Air | 4 daily |
BOAT
Ferries between Parapat and Tuk Tuk (15,000Rp, 11 daily) operate about every hour from 8.30am to 7pm. Ferries stop at Bagus Bay (35 minutes), then continue north, stopping on request.
The first and last ferries from Tuk Tuk leave at 7am and 5.30pm respectively; check exact times with your lodgings.
When leaving for Parapat, stand on your hotel jetty and wave a ferry down.
Fourteen ferries a day shuttle motorbikes and people between Parapat and Tomok (10,000Rp), from 7am to 7pm. From Tomok there’s also a car ferry with four or five services a day.
LAND
For direct buses to Medan, Bukit Lawang and Berastagi you’ll need to get to Parapat. A private car to Medan will cost about 600,000Rp. Otherwise to get to Berastagi from Samosir you’ll need to take a string of public buses. Catch a bus from Tomok to Pangururan (20,000Rp, one hour), then take another bus to Berastagi (60,000Rp, three hours), which also continues on to Medan. This bus goes via Sidikalang (40,000Rp), which is also a transfer point to Kutacane and Singkil. Most guesthouses and travel agencies can prebook the pricier, direct shared-minibus tickets from Parapat for you.
Getting to Singkil involves several connecting public buses and shared cars along a Tomok–Pangururan–Sidikalang–Singkil route (200,000Rp, nine to 12 hours), which will likely involve a night in Sidikalang; for more info enquire at Liberta Homestay, or Banyak Island Travel in Singkil. Otherwise a private car will cost 1,200,000Rp to 1,600,000Rp.
8Getting Around
Local buses serve the whole of Samosir except Tuk Tuk. Minibuses run between Tomok and Ambarita (5000Rp), continuing to Simanindo (10,000Rp) and Pangururan (20,000Rp); flag them down on the main road. Services dry up after 5pm. The peaceful, generally well-maintained (yet narrow) island roads are good for travelling by motorbike (70,000Rp to 100,000Rp per day) or bicycle (30,000Rp to 40,000Rp per day), both easily rented from guesthouses and tourist shops around Tuk Tuk.
Sibolga
%0631 / Pop 86,500
Sibolga is one of two jump-off points for boats to Pulau Nias (the other being Singkil), with daily departures to the island. It’s not a particularly pleasant port town and is renowned for its touts. Dragging around surf gear can invite inflated prices: bargain hard or accept a degree of extra ‘service’. Arrive as early in the day as possible to ensure a place on a boat departing that evening.
There are numerous ATMs. BNI Bank (Jl Katamso) is a good bet.
4Sleeping
Hotel Wisata IndahRESORT$$
(%0631-23688; Jl Katamso 51; r incl breakfast 450,000-600,000Rp; aWs)
If you absolutely must stay overnight in Sibolga, Hotel Wisata Indah is the pick of a pretty uninspiring lot. Its dated, shabby rooms offer sea views, and the staff are helpful but speak little English. Its only saving grace is its pool and outdoor restaurant serving beer.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sibolga is linked to Medan by three to four daily flights with Wings Air and Garuda, and to Jakarta by a daily Garuda flight.
BOAT
Boats to Pulau Nias leave from the ferry terminal (Jl Horas) at the end of Jl Horas. ASDP (%0811 626 5229; www.indonesiaferry.co.id) runs three services a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) to Gunung Sitoli at 7pm (economy/VIP 65,000/120,000Rp, 10 to 13 hours). Ferries to Teluk Dalam leave only on Monday at 6pm (economy/VIP 78,000/140,000Rp, 11 to 14 hours). A car/motorbike costs 1,178,000/118,000Rp.
Buy tickets from the harbour. VIP class is air-conditioned; if travelling economy, get there early to claim your seat. Ferries generally leave one to two hours late. If you arrive in Sibolga and are told you have just missed the boat it is often worth going to the harbour yourself to verify this. Surfboards sometimes incur extra charges.
BUSES FROM SIBOLGA
| DESTINATION | FARE (RP) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bukittinggi | 150,000-250,000 | 13-14 | several daily |
| Medan | 120,000-150,000 | 8-14 | several daily |
| Padang | 150,000-250,000 | 16 | several daily |
| Parapat | 100,000-120,000 | 6-7 | 1 daily |
| Singkil | 120,000-140,000 | 6 | several daily |
Pulau Nias
%0639
The Indian Ocean roars its way to Indonesia, arriving in one of the world’s most spectacular surf breaks here on remote Pulau Nias: a sizeable but solitary rock off the northern Sumatran coast. Surfers have been coming here for decades for the waves on superb Teluk Sorake, which has deservedly kept this far-flung island on the international surfing circuit. Away from the waves, the fascinating traditional villages, architecture and ancient megalithic monuments have great appeal for non-surfers.
Chloroquine-resistant malaria has been reported on Nias, so be sure to take appropriate precautions.
Visit Nias Island (www.visitniasisland.com) offers an excellent overview of things to do on the island.
History
Local legend has it that Niassans are the descendants of six gods who came to earth and settled in the central highlands. Anthropologists link them to just about everyone: the Bataks of Sumatra, the Naga of Assam in India, the aborigines of Taiwan and various Dayak groups in Kalimantan.
Nias’ history is the stuff of campfire tales, with prominent themes of headhunting, dark magic and human sacrifice; but this isn’t ancient history – the first Aussie surfers to ride Sorake’s waves in the 1970s were stalked by a rogue shaman bent on collecting a human head.
Traditionally, Niassan villages were presided over by a village chief, who headed a council of elders. Beneath the aristocratic upper caste were the common people, and below them the slaves, who were often traded. Until the first years of the 19th century, Nias’ only connection with the outside world was through the slave trade.
Sometimes villages would band together to form federations, who often fought each other. Prior to the Dutch conquest and the arrival of missionaries, intervillage warfare was fast and furious, spurred on by the desire for revenge, slaves or human heads. Heads were needed for stately burials, wedding dowries and the construction of new villages.
When the people weren’t warring, they were farming, a tradition that continues today. They cultivated yams, rice, maize and taro, despite the thick jungle, and raised pigs as a source of food and a symbol of wealth and prestige; the more pigs you had, the higher your status in the village. Gold and copper work, as well as woodcarving, were important industries.
The indigenous religion was thought to have been a combination of animism and ancestor worship, with some Hindu influences. Today the dominant religions on Nias are Christianity and Islam, overlaid with traditional beliefs.
The island did not come under full Dutch control until 1914. Today’s population of about 656,000 is spread through more than 650 villages, some inaccessible by road.
8Getting There & Away
These days most travellers fly to Nias, but the slow ferry is still an option.
AIR
Binaka Airport, around 20km south of Gunung Sitoli, is served by Wings Air and Garuda flights from Medan (one hour, six daily) and Padang (one hour, one daily). Extra charges generally apply to surfboards.
BOAT
Ferries link Nias with the mainland towns of Sibolga and Singkil. Twice-weekly ferries from Singkil (economy 52,000Rp, six hours) arrive on Monday and Thursday mornings and depart those same days at around 9pm.
ASDP ferries from Sibolga to Gunung Sitoli leave on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 7pm (economy/VIP 65,000/120,000Rp, 10 to 13 hours), and a weekly ferry to Teluk Dam leaves on Monday at 6pm (economy/VIP 78,000/140,000Rp, 11 to 14 hours). ASDP ferries also connect Teluk Dalam with the Telo Islands to the south (41,000Rp to 80,000Rp, six hours) on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
Gunung Sitoli
POP 130,000
Gunung Sitoli, on the northeastern coast of Pulau Nias, is the island’s main town. It has the feel of any other big, sprawling city on Sumatra’s mainland. Rebuilt after the 2005 tsunami, it serves as the main entry and exit point to Nias, and for the most part is of little interest to tourists. The one exception is its excellent museum, which is a must for those interested in indigenous culture.
There are ATMs at Binaka Airport, as well as several in the city that accept both Mastercard and Visa.
1Sights
oMuseum Pusaka NiasMUSEUM
(%0639-21920; www.museum-nias.org; Jl Yos Sudarso 134A; 20,000Rp; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5.30pm Sun)
This superb museum, housed inside several traditional-style buildings, offers an in-depth introduction to the indigenous culture of Nias. The displays run the gamut from jewellery worn by noblemen, weapons, crocodile-hide battle armour and traditional fishing and hunting equipment to headhunting sculptures and paraphernalia, wood carvings used in ancestor worship, ceremonial drums, nifolasara (boat-like) coffins with dragon heads, and microliths (anthropomorphic stone figures found on top of megaliths throughout Pulau Nias). One room features beautiful scale models of traditional houses.
Outside are some restored traditional houses, where you can spend the night. The depressing zoo is best avoided.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of places to eat in town, with Padang food, seafood restaurants and a few cafes doing Western dishes.
Museum Nias LodgesGUESTHOUSE$
(%0812 6490 4744, 0812 6246 3919; www.museum-nias.org; Museum Pusaka Nias, Jl Yos Sudarso 134; s/d incl breakfast with shared bathroom 100,000/200,000Rp, r with private bathroom & air-con 450,000Rp; aW)
A fairly unique choice, not only because you get to spend a night at the museum, but because it’s inside a traditional Nias house. Purpose built for tourists, the pick are the Bawöganöwö and Ulunoyo buildings, equipped with mod cons such as TV, air-con and wi-fi. Budgets rooms are in a more ordinary double-storey wooden building.
Museum entry is free for those who stay here.
oRapi SeafoodSEAFOOD$
(%0639-22247; Jl Kelapa 15; mains from 35,000Rp; h6-10pm)
This nondescript place in central Gunung Sitoli is responsible for some of the best and freshest seafood we’ve ever had in Sumatra. Choose your dinner, then have it grilled, with sweet and spicy sauce if you like. The squid also comes with different sauces and the monster-sized grilled prawns are sheer perfection. Speaking some Bahasa Indonesia is a definite boon.
8Getting There & Away
Gunung Sitoli’s Binaka Airport, 20km south of town, is where most tourists arrive via flights from Medan or Padang. Susi Air occasionally offers flights to the Telo Islands.
By boat there are several services during the week to both Sibolga and Singkil on the mainland.
Public transport is relatively infrequent, but there are buses to Teluk Dalam (90,000Rp, three hours), which sometimes continue on to Sorake. Otherwise count on paying around 500,000Rp for a private vehicle to Sorake (2½ hours). A bus from the airport to Gunung Sitoli is around 60,000Rp, or 80,000Rp for a becak.
Traditional Villages
For hundreds of years, Nias residents built elaborate villages around cobblestone streets lined with rows of ship-like wooden houses. The traditional homes were balanced on tall wooden pylons and topped by a steep, thatched roof. Some say the boat motif was inspired by Dutch spice ships. Constructed from local teak and held together with hand-hewn wooden pegs, the houses are adorned with symbolic wooden carvings. The technology of traditional architecture proved quite absorbent and these structures fared better in the 2005 earthquake than modern concrete buildings.
Reflecting the island’s defensive strategies, villages were typically built on high ground reached by dozens of stone steps. A protective stone wall usually encircled the village. Stone was also used for carved bathing pools, staircases, benches, chairs and memorials.
The island has geographic diversity when it comes to traditional houses. In northern Nias, homes are freestanding, oblong structures on stilts, while in the south they are built shoulder to shoulder on either side of a long, paved courtyard. Emphasising the roof as the primary feature, southern Niassan houses are constructed using pylons and cross-beams slotted together without the use of bindings or nails.
Gomo & Around
The villages around Gomo, in the central highlands, contain some of the island’s best examples of stone carvings and menhirs (single standing stones), some thought to be 3000 years old. Such examples can be found in the village of Tundrumbaho, 5km from Gomo; Lahusa Idanotae, halfway between Gomo and Tundrumbaho; and at Tetegewo, 7km south of Gomo. Getting to this area is a bit of a challenge, since the roads are in poor condition.
Hilinawalo Mazingo
Omo HadaARCHITECTURE
(Chieftain’s House)
One of only five such surviving buildings on Pulau Nias, the Omo Hada is situated in the prestigious ‘upstream’ direction of the remote Hilinawalo Mazingo village, garnering the first rays of morning light. It still serves its traditional purpose as a meeting hall for seven neighbouring villages. You’ll need a local guide and sturdy motorbike to negotiate the bad roads to get here.
In order to repair damage from age and climate, villagers have been trained in traditional carpentry skills, preserving crafts that were nearing extinction.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
WEST COAST
Adventurous surfers are heading to Pulau Nias’ west coast in search of empty waves and as-yet-undiscovered spots, given Sorake’s consistent (and sometimes overwhelming) popularity.
Much of the west coast is still a DIY adventure; some surfers stay in losmen (basic accommodation) around the village of Afulu and hire local boats to take them up and down the coast.
Further afield are the islands of Asu and Bawa. More exposed than Nias itself, these islands see bigger and more consistent waves. With a left-hander at Asu and a strong right-hander at Bawa, good surf is almost guaranteed regardless of wind direction. The risk of malaria is high on these islands, however, particularly on Bawa, which has a large swamp in its interior.
Afulu Retreat (Darus Surfcamp; %0823 0416 2558; per person incl meals 250,000Rp; a) On Walo Beach, just north of Afulu, these bungalows are the best of Pulau Nias’ west-coast surfing lodgings. Choose between the three breezy bungalows with their own outdoor bathroom or bunk with fellow surfers in a basic shared room. The owners cook up mega platters of fish, and have an excellent knowledge of everything surfing in Nias.
Ina Silvi Cottage (%0821 6099 3580, 0822 7734 2628; www.inasilvicottage.com; Pulau Asu; r 300,000Rp; W) On the east coast of Pulau Asu are these idyllic bungalows, run by Mama Silvi (who speaks perfect English) and her family, that sit directly on the white sandy beach. It’s a popular choice for both surfers and non-surfers alike, and a 1km walk to the nearest break. There’s good food, cold beer and wi-fi.
Asu Surf Camp (%0852 8561 0931; www.asucamp.com; Pulau Asu; per person per night AU$220; aW) A spot purely for surfers, this luxury camp gets rave reviews for its uncrowded waves, excellent food and relaxed vibe. The price includes speedboat transfers to top surfing spots.
Getting There & Away
Sirombu on Nias’ west coast is the jumping-off point for the islands of Asu and Bawa. Ask around to see if any public buses will be heading there; otherwise you can charter a car for about 700,000Rp to Sirombu from Gunung Sitoli.
From Sirombu there’s a daily boat to Asu at 2pm (50,000Rp, four to five hours); it returns at 6.30am. Otherwise you can charter a boat (700,000Rp, maximum 10 people) from local fishermen at Sirombu, or even from Teluk Dalam (1,500,000Rp) to save yourself the hassle of getting to Sirombu first.
Bawomataluo
Perched on a hill about 400m above sea level, Bawomataluo (Sun Hill) is the most famous, and the most accessible, of the southern villages on Pulau Nias. It is also the setting for lompat batu (stone jumping). The final approach is up 88 steep stone steps flanked by stone dragons, and houses are arranged along two main stone-paved avenues. Bawomataluo is well worth exploring, but be prepared for eager knick-knack sellers.
Stone jumping was once a form of war training; the jumpers had to leap over a 1.8m-high stone wall, traditionally topped with pointed sticks. These days the sticks are left off – and the motivation is financial (200,000Rp per jump outside ceremonial occasions). There are also cultural displays of war dances, traditionally performed by young, single males.
From Bawomataluo, you can see the rooftops of nearby Orihili. A stone staircase and a trail lead downhill to the village.
Bawomataluo is 15km from Teluk Dalam and is accessible by public transport (9000Rp) or an ojek (30,000Rp) to Sorake; guesthouses in Sorake can also arrange transfers.
Chief’s HouseARCHITECTURE
Bawomataluo’s two streets meet opposite the impressive chief’s house, which is thought to be both the oldest and the largest on Nias. You can poke around its heavy wooden-beamed interior and admire the drum that signals the beginning and end of meetings, as well as the original wooden carvings and rows of pigs’ jawbones. Outside is the chief’s stone throne, next to a large stone phallus and stone tables where the deceased were once left to decay.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TELO ISLANDS
If Nias was the original surfers’ paradise and the Mentawai Islands are currently in vogue, then tomorrow’s slice of surfing paradise could be the Telo Islands. This group of islands sits to the north of the main Mentawain island of Siberut and until recently it was almost completely unknown to the outside world.
Today, liveaboard surf-charter boats have started adding the islands to their more ambitious itineraries, though the islands’ relative remoteness still means uncrowded waves. Non-surfing travellers are very rare visitors to the Telo Islands, but if you have patience and a sense of adventure, they offer enormous potential for beach lounging, village living and snorkelling.
Telo Island Surf House (%0813 6364 4963, 0853 6264 1331; www.teloislandsurfhouse.com; Pulau Sibaranun; r incl meals from 300,000Rp) A great budget option is this relaxed two-storey wooden house overlooking the surf on Pulau Sibaranun. It’s pretty old-school with limited electricity, but will give you a taste of what things were like before the luxury villas moved in. It’s run by local surfer Andreas and his family, and they have a boat to access (from 350,000Rp) wherever the surf’s pumping.
To get here take the ferry (400,000Rp) from Teluk Dalam in South Nias to the harbour at Pulau Tello, from where Andreas can pick you up by boat.
Resort Latitude Zero (www.resortlatitudezero.com; Pulau Sifauruasi; per person incl meals & transport 7/10 days AUD$4360/5740; aWs) A luxurious surfing resort sitting on its own private island, this place has excellent access to Telo’s 18 breaks, sea views from its sumptuous rooms and verandahs, an infinity pool and a family-friendly beach. There are stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), kayaks, snorkelling gear and also a gym for non-surfers. Liveaboard charters are available for exploring the surrounding surf spots. Seven-, 10- and 14-day packages available.
Getting There & Away
Ferries travel from Teluk Dalam in Nias every other day to Pulau Tello (40,000Rp), the main administrative island, and irregular boats sail between the Telo Islands and Padang. If staying in one of the resorts, the boat transfer from Padang is usually included in the rates.
Hilisimaetano
There are more than 100 traditional houses in the large village of Hilisimaetano, 16km northwest of Teluk Dalam. Stone jumping and traditional dancing are performed here during special events.
Hilisimaetano is 10km north of Sorake. It can be reached by infrequent public transport from Teluk Dalam (7000Rp), otherwise you’ll need to arrange private transport.
Botohili & Hilimaeta
Botohili, a small village on the hillside above the peninsula of Pantai Lagundri, has two rows of traditional houses, with a number of new houses breaking up the skyline. The remains of the original entrance, stone chairs and paving can still be seen. It’s about a 10-minute walk here from Pantai Sorake.
A 2km walk or ride from Lagundri along a steep, partially paved road, the traditional village of Hilimaetaniha is one of the quietest on Pulau Nias. Friendly locals sit by their traditional houses, some of them brightly tiled or painted, and children fly kites along the only street. The lompat batu (stone jumping) pylon can still be seen here and there are a number of stone monuments, including a 2m-high stone penis. A long pathway of stone steps leads uphill to the village.
It’s about a 25-minute walk here from Pantai Sorake; otherwise an ojek will cost around 15,000Rp.
Pantai Sorake & Teluk Lagundri
A fish-hook piece of land creates the perfect horseshoe bay of Teluk Lagundri and the Point surf break at Pantai Sorake, which is generally regarded as one of the best right-handers in the world. The main surfing season is June to October, with a peak in July and August when the waves can be very solid. Folks refer to this area interchangeably as Sorake or Lagundri.
The waves discovered here in 1975 by Aussie surfers Kevin Lovett and John Giesel have become shallower and more perfectly shaped and powerful following the 2004 earthquake and tsunami. With a couple of exceptions, all accommodation sits cheek by jowl along Pantai Sorake, which is considered to be more protected from possible future disasters.
4Sleeping & Eating
The western part of the bay, known as Pantai Sorake, is the primary location for lodgings, and you’ll likely get a view straight out to the surf. A lot of surfers come here on multiday packages, which include airport transfers and all meals, but it’s always possible to rent a room by the night. Check out www.visitniasisland.com for listings.
Most of the guesthouses have attached restaurants doing Indonesian dishes, barbecue fish and burgers, chips and the like.
Harus Damai InnGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7706 3712; Pantai Lagundri; r 200,000-350,000Rp; a)
Right on Pantai Lagundri, this is the place for non-surfers, with a mellow little beach with no (or little) waves. Even though it’s directly on the beach, none of its nine rooms have views; the pick are on the ground floor, while those in the two-storey block are fairly grim. It has a breezy seafront restaurant doing grilled fish, curries and cold beer.
They have boards to rent.
oKey Hole Surf CampSURF CAMP$$
(%0813 7469 2530, 0822 7644 9999; www.niaskeyholesurfcamp.com; Pantai Sorake; r from 300,000Rp; aW)
Run by local surfer Timmy and his friendly family, the old favourite Key Hole Surf Camp is right in the thick of things. It has eight comfortable, air-conditioned rooms and its restaurant serves anything from pizza to lobster. Their 10-day packages (US$500) are also worth considering; these include meals, airport pick-ups, motorcycle rental and island excursions.
Surf lessons are also available on Pantai Lagundri. There’s also a boat for liveaboard surf trips to Telo and other outlying waves.
Hash & Family Surf CampGUESTHOUSE$$$
(%0852 9704 9557; www.surfhousenias.com; Pantai Sorake; dm/s/d incl meals US$50/100/150; aW)
Things don’t get much better for surfers than having unencumbered views of one of the world’s most famous right-handers from their window. All looking out to the Point, rooms are large and comfortable and come with air-con, wi-fi and hot water, while the attractive restaurant and bar are the best in Sorake.
8Getting There & Away
Pantai Sorake is located 100km south of Pulau Nias’ airport. Transport is inclusive for many guesthouse prebookings, otherwise it’s around 500,000Rp (2½ hours) by taxi. It’s about 130,000Rp by bus, but you’ll have to transfer at Teluk Dalam.
Teluk Dalam
POP 76,750
Teluk Dalam is the capital of South Nias regency, and Pulau Nias’ second city. It’s a squat little port town that’s as loud and chaotic as much larger cities. You’ll need to pass through Teluk Dalam for transit connections to/from Pantai Sorake, to pick up provisions or to access ATMs.
A public bus from Gunung Sitoli to Teluk Dalam is around 90,000Rp for the three-hour drive. To Sorake it’s around 25,000Rp by ojek, or 50,000Rp by becak.
From the harbour here you can get ferries to Pulau Tello, and Sibolga on the mainland.
5Eating
Mari RasaINDONESIAN$
(Jl Pelita; mains 25,000Rp; h10am-6pm)
About half a block from the main road in Teluk Dalam, Mari Rasa is locally famous for its babi panggang (grilled pork) and lomok-lomok (pork belly) served with rice, local greens, dark chilli sauce and a bowlful of flavourful, spicy broth. It’s a great place to hit if you’re waiting for a night boat or a pick-up.