South of Bukittinggi
The rich volcanic soil of the hilly countryside around Bukittinggi oozes fertility. Stop by the roadside and you can spot cinnamon, betel-nut, avocado, coffee, mango and papaya trees. Rice, tapioca and potatoes grow in terraces, while bamboo waterwheels feed irrigation ditches and drive wooden grinding mills. You may see a wedding parade. The bride and groom, dressed in full traditional regalia, are accompanied by musicians, family members and half the village. The Minangkabau tribal flags (red, black and yellow) typically mark the site of the festivities.
The sights in this area can be combined into a scenic day tour, either by renting a motorbike, taking a motorbike tour (300,000Rp) or hiring a car and driver (600,000Rp).
1Sights
Grand Palace of PagaruyuangPALACE
(Istano Basa Pagaruyuang; Jl Sutan Alam Bagagarsyah, Silinduang Bulan; 25,000Rp; 
h7am-7pm)
In the village of Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, the heartland of the red Tanah Datar clan of Minangkabau, is this epic palace, a replica of the former home of the rulers of the ancient Minangkabau kingdom of Payaruyung. It’s equally impressive within, with soaring pillars and ceilings, and walls covered in brightly coloured ceremonial banners. There’s a museum inside (no English captions), and three levels you can clamber up for views of the surrounding village and countryside.
A fire razed it to the ground in 2007, but it has been reconstructed. Batu Sangkar can be reached via public bus (22,000Rp, 1½ hours) from Bukittinggi, where you can continue by ojek (8000Rp) to Silinduang Bulan. Try to visit during the week, as weekends can get busy.
Istano Silinduang BulanPALACE
(Queen’s Palace; Jl Sutan Alam Bagagarsyah, Silinduang Bulan; 5000Rp; h9am-5.30pm)
Near the Grand Palace in Silinduang Bulan is the much smaller and lower-key, but equally ornate, Istano Silinduang Bulan. It’s still used for important clan meetings today. It was damaged by lightning in 2011, but has been rebuilt since.
BelimbingVILLAGE
Belimbing, a village southeast of Batu Sangkar, is comprised of one of the largest surviving collections of traditional architecture in the highlands. Many of the homes are 300 years old and in various states of decay, including one that’s set aside as a heritage site (entry by donation). Most owners have built modern homes nearby and use the relics for ceremonial purposes.
Danau Maninjau
The first glimpse of this perfectly formed volcanic lake sucks your breath away as you lurch over the caldera lip and hurtle towards the first of the 44 (numbered) hairpin bends down to the lakeshore. Monkeys watch your progress from the crash barriers as the road takes you down from the lush rainforest of the highlands to the ever-expanding farms and paddies of the lowlands.
When the traveller tide receded from Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau was left high and dry. The locals looked to more sustainable sources of income and aquaculture to fill the void. Fish farms now dot the lake foreshore, outnumbering tourists.
The lake is 460m above sea level and encircled by a 60km road. Most places of interest spread out north from Maninjau village to Bayur (3.5km away) and beyond. If coming by bus, tell the conductor where you’re staying and you’ll be dropped off at the right spot.
1Sights & Activities
Swimming and canoeing in the lake (warmed by subterranean springs) are the main drawcards here, but there are plenty of other options.
If you’re not up for hiking, it takes roughly three hours to circumnavigate the lake on a moped. Beach Guest House organises both guided hikes and motorbike tours.
The caldera, covered in rainforest that hides waterfalls and traditional villages, is a hiker’s dream. Hike to the rim from Bayur, or cheat by catching the bus up the hill to Matur, then walking back down via the lookout at Puncak Lawang. Check out the map at Beach Guest House for more good trekking information.
4Sleeping
oBeach Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map; 
%0813 6379 7005, 0752-861799; www.beachguesthousemaninjau.com; Jl Raya Maninjau; dm 50,000Rp, d with shared bathroom 85,000Rp, d with private bathroom 100,000-150,000Rp; 
W)
Run by a friendly, energetic local couple, Fifi and Jack, this hostel and cafe is Danau Maninjau’s bona fide traveller central. Bunk in the four-bed dorm or go for one of the lakefront rooms with private bathroom and hot shower. The owners organise excursions, from round-the-lake bicycle or motorbike jaunts to hikes of the caldera (seven hours).
Muaro Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(map; %0813 3924 0042; neni967@yahoo.com; Jl Muaro Pisang 53, Maninjau; r 150,000-200,000Rp; W)
Down a maze of footpaths about 300m northwest of the main intersection, these beachfront bungalows are a good deal in central Maninjau. The small beach area is (almost) free of aquaculture, and there’s a charming lakeside restaurant. They hire out stand-up paddleboards (SUPs; per hour 30,000Rp) and motorbikes (per day 80,000Rp), and have tours of the surrounding area (300,000Rp) and Harau Valley (500,00Rp).
House of AnnisaHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(map; %0822 6891 2625; Jl H Udin Rahmani; r incl breakfast 400,000Rp)
More like a museum than a guesthouse, this wonderful Dutch heritage villa has been lovingly restored by the great-grandchildren of the original owners. There are three romantic rooms, one with a brass four-poster bed festooned with mirrors; bathrooms are shared. Unique touches include elegant Arabic calligraphy carved into the outside walls and a gorgeous balcony with antique benches and chairs. Call in advance.
5Eating
Bagoes CafeCAFE$
(map; Jl Raya Maninjau, Maninjau; mains 15,000-50,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W
v)
At the traveller favourite Beach Guest House in Maninjau village, Bagoes combines backpacker staples with local dishes such as vegetable gado gado, mie goreng and lake fish. The lakeside deck is a fine place for a large, ice-cold Bintang (40,000Rp), and movie nights are occasionally held.
oWaterfront ZalinoINDONESIAN$$
(map; %0752-61740, 0815 3454 6280; mains 32,000-65,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W)
This place with a great lakeside location showcases some local seafood specialties, such as udang (freshwater lake shrimp), freshwater lobster and grilled catfish. As well as cold beer it also serves a delicious soursop fruit wine (both non-alcoholic and alcoholic varietals). It’s around 1km north of Maninjau’s main intersection.
Zal – AKA ‘Mr Porcupine’ – can organise all manner of tours, including fishing and trekking.
WORTH A TRIP
HARAU VALLEY
Heading east from Bukittinggi takes you through the tapioca-growing area of Piladang, famous for keropok (tapioca crackers), and the sprawling agricultural centre of Payakumbuh. Of Minangkabau’s three clans, this is the territory of the 50 Kota (50 Villages) yellow branch. Rice paddies with wallowing buffalo flank the narrow road that leads to the tiny village of Harau, the volcanoes looming behind them. Venture another 3km and spectacular, vertical 100m cliffs, seemingly made of painted rock, rise up to enclose the claustrophobic Harau Valley, 15km northeast of Payakumbuh and 55km from Bukittinggi.
The most direct ways to reach Harau from Bukittinggi are by private car (250,000Rp), renting a motorbike (60,000Rp to 75,000Rp) or taking an ojek (200,000Rp, two hours). Alternatively, take a Po Sarah Group minibus from the bus terminal to Tanjung Pati (20,000Rp to 25,000Rp), and then a becak to Harau (20,000Rp).
Lemba Harau (5000Rp) Lemba Harau and other waterfalls in the Harau Valley attract day trippers from Bukittinggi, particularly during the rainy season; if the weather’s been dry, the falls are reduced to mere trickles.
Ikbal (%0852 6378 1842) An excellent local rock-climbing contact is Ikbal at the Abdi Homestay, who offers guided climbing excursions for 300,000Rp.
Abdi Homestay (%0852 6378 1842; ikbalharau@yahoo.com; Kab 50 Kota; per person incl breakfast 150,000Rp) Run by young and energetic owners Ikbal and Noni, Abdi Homestay is the loveliest place to stay in the Harau Valley. Eight adorable thatched bungalows (with mosquito nets and bamboo showers) sit on the edge of verdant rice paddies and lotus ponds, with sheer cliffs forming a dramatic backrop. Ikbal leads day hikes (200,000Rp per person) to the top of the cliffs and surrounding countryside.
Meals include one of the best chicken rendang you’ll ever have (though you’ll need to pre-order). Cooking classes (150,000Rp) include a visit to the market.
Harau Resort (Lembah Echo; %0812 6619 1501, 0822 7271 7448; www.harau-resort.com; Taratang Lb Limpato; r incl breakfast from 400,000Rp) Sitting right under the cliffs in the narrowest part of the Harau Valley is Harau Resort (aka Lembah Echo), with its beautiful grounds encroached on by a jungle full of monkeys. It has Minangkabau-style cottages and classy (if dark) rooms with hardwood furniture and hot showers. Little English is spoken.
8Information
BRI Bank (Jl Maninjau) Has an ATM, but it only dispenses small amounts. Stock up on rupiah in Bukittinggi.
8Getting There & Away
Your best bet to get here from Bukittinggi is by minivans (30,000Rp) that offer pick-up service; try Koga Travel (%0823 8222 8699) or get in touch with the guesthouses to arrange these. Otherwise there are infrequent buses (Jl Maninjau) between Maninjau and Bukittinggi (20,000Rp, 1¾ hours, three daily).
8Getting Around
Rent mountain bikes (per day 45,000Rp), motorcycles (per day from 80,000Rp) and canoes (per day 40,000Rp) from Beach Guest House, Muaro Beach Bungalows or Waterfront Zalino.
Minibuses (5000Rp) travel the lake road during daylight hours. An ojek from the intersection to Bayur will cost around 5000Rp.
Kerinci Valley
Kerinci is a stunning mountain valley tucked away high in the Bukit Barisan on Jambi’s western border. Many of the cool, lush forests are protected as the Kerinci Seblat National Park, one of the last strongholds of the Sumatran tiger. The valley’s many lakes and jungle-shrouded mountains and volcanoes make it a big draw for hikers in search of off-the-beaten-track adventure. To the south is picturesque Danau Kerinci and a patchwork of rich farmland. Tea and cinnamon account for much of the valley’s wealth, with the former ringing the higher villages and the latter forming a buffer between the farmland and rainforest.
Minangkabau and native Kerincinese make up most of the population, with a sprinkling of Batak and Javanese who are drawn by the rich soil. Kerinci is in Jambi province but has a close geographic proximity to Padang.
8Getting There & Away
Kerinci has an airport 10km east of Sungai Penuh, which has a daily Wings Air flight to Jambi.
Getting here by bus or shared taxi is also possible, with services from Kerinci heading south to Bengkulu, eastwards to Jambi and north to Padang and Bukittinggi.
Sungai Penuh
%0748 / Pop 96,000
Sungai Penuh (‘Full River’) is the regional administrative centre and transport hub for the valley. There is a lively market, and the town makes an excellent central base for venturing into the wilds of Kerinci Seblat National Park and the surrounding villages. All up it’s a pleasant little town with friendly locals, excellent cafes, reliable internet and some spectacular viewpoints looking out to the valley.
1Sights
Bukit KhayanganVIEWPOINT
For fantastic, sweeping panoramas of Kerinci Valley head up to this hilltop lookout, especially popular with locals for sunrise and sunset. To get here take the road that winds around the outskirts of town; by ojek expect to pay around 50,000Rp return, otherwise it’s a three-hour walk up and down.
Mesjid Agung Pondok TinggiMOSQUE
(Jl Soekarno Hatta; entry by donation)
Head west up Jl Sudirman (past the post office) and turn left, where you’ll find this old wooden mosque with a pagoda-style roof. Built in 1874 without a single nail, the interior contains elaborately carved beams and old Dutch tiles. Ask the caretaker for permission to enter, and dress appropriately to visit.
TTours
oWild Sumatra AdventuresCULTURAL
(%0812 6017 3651; www.wildsumatra.com/kerinci)
Based in Sungai Penuh, enthusiastic expat Luke Mackin is a passionate and knowledgable source of information on the surrounding area, especially the Kerinci Seblat National Park. He has numerous alliances with local trekking guides and villages, and can organise guides and transport to various attractions. See the website for the many possibilities, from the popular Five Lakes hike to night safaris and multiday jungle treks.
4Sleeping
Sungai Penuh’s choice of budget accommodation is uninspiring, though there are some OK midrange options that are worth spending a bit extra for. If you’re looking for greater cultural immersion, Wild Sumatra Adventures can help you organise homestays in villages surrounding Sungai Penuh. Expect to pay around 50,000Rp per night to stay with a local family.
Hotel Jaya WisataHOTEL$
(%0748-21221; www.hoteljayawisata.com; Jl Martadinata 7; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 160,000/400,000Rp; 
aW)
Your options here range from rather depressing cold-water rooms downstairs that could seriously use a coat of paint, to more spacious and stylish rooms upstairs. The location is great – near the cheap eats of the night market. Otherwise there’s also Jaya Wisata 2, a more relaxed option with a garden setting in Sungai Penuh’s outlying surrounds.
Hotel MahkotaHOTEL$
(%0821 8146 3344, 0748-21640; Jl Depati Parbo; r incl breakfast 150,000-365,000Rp; aW
s)
One of Sungai Penuh’s better hotels, Mahkota is fronted by a rather grand reception building, and though rooms are fairly generic, they’re comfortable enough and livened up with some flashy motifs. The highlight is its large swimming pool; however, beware it gets packed with local kids on weekends. It’s located 2km from the city centre along the main road heading out of town.
5Eating & Drinking
oKorintji HeritageINDONESIAN$
(www.korintji.com; Jl Prof Dr Yakub Isman 1C; mains 15,000-65,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)
Set up as a social enterprise to empower locals, this fantastic new cafe in Sungai Penuh is set inside an atmospheric bamboo building overlooking the town and valley. As well as tasty Indonesian dishes, highlights include Danau Kerinci lobster (from 50,000Rp) and steaks (from 150,000Rp). It does excellent local, single-origin filter coffee, and has an on-site shop selling local delicacies.
Rumah Makan Dendeng BatokokINDONESIAN$
(Jl Muradi; dishes 20,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
Carnivores shouldn’t leave town without trying the regional specialty dendeng batokok (thinly sliced beef strips barbecued on charcoal), which is grilled street-side at this centrally located warung across from Hotel Yani.
Pasar MalamMARKET$
(off Jl Muradi; meals from 20,000Rp; h5-10pm)
The centrally located pasar malam (night market) is a terrific place to try local specialties, such as martabak (sweet pancake filled with coconut or banana), martabak mesir (square pancake filled with meat and vegetables), mie bakso (noodle soup with meatballs), and sate with a red gravy rather than peanut sauce.
Wiyuka CoffeeCOFFEE
(Jl Ahmad Yani; h11am-10pm; W)
This excellent coffee shop gives Sungai Penuh a cool, urban touch. Here you can sample quality beans from all over Sumatra and beyond, and there’s local dishes (mains from 16,000Rp) and free wi-fi.
8Information
Kantor Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat (Kerinci Seblat National Park Office; %0748-22250; Jl Basuki Rahmat 11; h8am-4pm) This park headquarters sells permits; they never seem to answer the phone, so just turn up. If it’s closed, you can get permits from Wild Sumatra Adventures or guesthouses in Lempur Tengah or Kersik Tua.
There are several ATMs in town. BNI Bank (Jl Ahmad Yani) is a centrally located option.
8Getting There & Away
Safa Marwa (%0852 6312 7199, 0748-22376; Jl Yos Sudarso 20) has minibuses between Sungai Penuh and destinations such as Padang, Bukittinggi, Bengkulu and Jambi.
BUSES FROM SUNGAI PENUH
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bengkulu |
125,000 |
10 |
daily (9am) |
| Bukittinggi |
120,000 |
10 |
daily (7.30pm) |
| Jambi |
130,000-150,000 |
10 |
2 daily (10am, 7pm) |
| Padang |
100,000-125,000 |
9 |
2 daily (9.15am, 7pm) |
Lempur Tengah
%0748 / Pop 4800
In the southern end of the Kerinci Valley, Lempur Tengah is a small, scrappy rural town, with its verdant, mountainous surrounds making it one of Kerinci’s more relaxed and picturesque bases. It offers a handy launching point for walks to Danau Kaco, as well as for the Five Lakes trek, Renah Kemumu and Gunung Kunyit.
Cinnamon is one of its main industries, and you’ll see stacks of it drying in many locals’ front yards. Lempur is also known for its historic centuries-old wooden mosque featuring a pagoda-style roof and decorative wood carving.
Local tour operator Explore Kerinci (%0813 6631 9255; www.explorekerinci.com) is based in town and covers all outdoor adventures.
4Sleeping
Zacky’s HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 6631 9255; r with shared bathroom incl breakfast 150,000Rp; W)
This place is run by local guide Zacky, who set up Explore Kerinci. The rooms are upstairs in a sizeable house with a wraparound balcony to kick back and take things slow. Along with his other guesthouse, this relaxed lodge is the best place to stay in town. Its Cinnamon Cafe restaurant does a good ayam penyet (flattened Javanese-style grilled chicken; 18,000Rp).
Cinnamon GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 6631 9255; dm/r 50,000/250,000Rp; W)
Zacky’s new lodge opened in 2018. Located 2km south of town, it looks to be the pick of places to stay around Lempur Tengah. Its setting is superb, looking out to idyllic countryside, and its choices of cheap dorms or en suite rooms will keep folks happy.
8Information
There’s a BRI Bank ATM to the north of town.
8Getting There & Away
Three buses to Sungai Penuh (20,000Rp, 1½ hours) leave in the morning at 7am, 7.30am and 8am. Coming from Sungai Penuh they depart in the afternoon at noon, 1pm and 2pm. Otherwise an ojek will cost around 70,000Rp.
Kersik Tua
At 1500m, surrounded by tea plantations and dominated by the massive cone of Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Kersik Tua makes a pleasant base for scaling the imposing volcano.
The town sprawls along one side of the main road, with tea plantations and the mountain on the other. The Kerinci Seblat National Park turn-off is indicated by a harimau (Sumatran tiger) statue.
Trekking gear, supplies, guides and transport can all be arranged here. The town has a market on Saturday and a couple of ATMs.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are several basic homestays spread out along the main road, most of which look out to Gunung Kerinci.
While none of the restaurants here sell beer, one of the grocery stores has a stash of ice-cold beer for takeaway. Shelter Coffee (Jl Muara Labuh-Sungai Penuh; h10am-10pm) is a cool little coffee shop if you’re in need of caffeine.
Subandi HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0812 7411 4273; subandi.homestay@gmail.com; Jl Muara Labuh-Sungai Penuh; r with shared/private bathroom from 150,000/200,000Rp)
Just south of the statue on the main road is the best base camp in Kersik Tua. Subandi is the only English-speaking homestay; owner Pak is a fount of local knowledge and can organise mountain, jungle and wildlife treks of varying difficulty and duration. Subandi was undergoing renovations at the time of research to add rooms, some with private bathrooms.
8Getting There & Away
The village is 52km north of Sungai Penuh on the road to Padang and can be reached by any Padang–Kerinci bus. Minibuses (15,000Rp, 1½ hours) trundle north from Sungai Penuh to Kersik Tua between 8am and 5pm, and north from Kersik Tua to Pelompek (6000Rp), 8km away.
Pelompek
The small, gritty village of Pelompek, 8km north of Kersik Tua, makes a good base for a night or two if you’re looking to climb Gunung Tajuh. The homestays in town can arrange guides and permits for Gunungs Kerinci and Tajuh. Monday is market day and is the most interesting time to visit.
4Sleeping
Kerinci View HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(%0812 7111 7133; www.kerincimountain.com; tr 250,000Rp)
Just outside Pelompek among pastoral surrounds is this homestay that lives up to its name, with the volcano on full show. The rooms here are brightly decorated and have hot-water showers. It’s the best option for trekkers looking for a guide to Gunung Tujuh (400,000Rp), or for booking a tour of the region; owner Mr Rapani is an experienced and well-regarded guide.
8Getting There & Away
Buses pass along the main street fairly regularly to Kersik Tua (6000Rp, 30 minutes) and Sungai Penuh (20,000Rp, two hours).
Kerinci Seblat National Park
The largest national park in Sumatra, Kerinci Seblat National Park (Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat; TNKS) covers a 350km swathe of the Bukit Barisan range and protects 13,791 sq km of prime equatorial rainforest spread over four provinces, with almost 40% of the park falling within Jambi’s boundaries.
Most of the protected area is dense rainforest, and its inaccessibility is the very reason the park is one of the last strongholds of the endangered harimau (Sumatran tiger). Kerinci Seblat National Park is known as having the highest population and occurrence of tigers anywhere in Sumatra, with 80% of the park showing signs of the species. Kerinci’s climate is temperate, and downright cold as you gain altitude. Bring warm clothes and rain gear.
ORANG PENDEK
Every culture that has lived among trees tells stories about elusive creatures that straddle myth and reality. Tales about leprechauns, fairies and even Sasquatch have existed for so long that it is impossible to determine which came first: the spotting or the story. The Indonesian version of these myths is the orang pendek, which has been occasionally spotted but more frequently talked about in the Kerinci forests for generations.
Villagers who claim to have seen orang pendek describe the creature as being about 1m tall, more ape than human, but walking upright on the ground. The creature’s reclusive habits made it a celebrity in local mythology. Common folk stories say that the orang pendek has feet that face backwards so that it can’t be tracked through the forest, or that it belongs to the supernatural, not the world of flesh and blood. Others say that the first-hand accounts were only spottings of sun bears.
Scientists have joined the conversation by tramping through the forest hoping to document the existence of orang pendek. British researchers succeeded in making a plaster cast of an animal footprint that fits the orang pendek description and doesn’t match any other known primate. Hair samples with no other documented matches have also led researchers to believe that there is merit to the local lore. Two members of Fauna & Flora International, a British-based research team, even reported separate sightings, but were unable to collect conclusive evidence. Researchers sponsored by the National Geographic Society have resumed the search by placing motion-sensitive cameras in strategic spots in the jungle. So little is known about this region and so many areas are so remote that researchers are hopeful that the orang pendek will eventually wander into the frame.
If nothing else, the orang pendek helps illuminate aspects of Sumatrans’ linguistic and cultural relationship with the jungle. Bahasa Indonesia makes little distinction between man and ape; for example, ‘orang-utan’ (forest man) or ‘orang rimba’ (‘people of the forest’, the preferred term for the Kubu tribe) may reflect a perceived blood tie between forest dwellers. This imprecision is often used for comic effect. A common joke is that the orang pendek (which means ‘short man’) does indeed exist, followed by the punchline that the shortest person in the room is the missing link.
1Sights
The volcanic legacy of the Kerinci Valley is evident in its many hot springs. These range from the semi-grotty Air Panas near the village of Semurup (11km north of Sungai Penuh), which is hugely popular with locals, to Air Panas Situs 2 across the valley, in a more natural setting, and Grao Sakti, more impressive still, located near the forest village of Renah Kemumu.
oGunung KerinciVOLCANO
Dominating the northern end of Kerinci Seblat National Park is Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Southeast Asia’s tallest volcano and one of Sumatra’s most active. On clear days the summit offers fantastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh and the surrounding valleys and mountains.
Summit treks usually start from the national park entrance, 5km from Kersik Tua, and tackle the mountain over two days, camping overnight. A fully guided trip with food, permits, transport and all gear costs anywhere from 900,000Rp to 1,500,000Rp per person.
The highest campsite, at 3400m, is normally reached after six hours. The following morning, allow an hour to reach the summit by sunrise. The path is very steep and eroded, and above the treeline the scree is extremely slippery. A guide is mandatory and you’ll need full camping gear, warm and waterproof clothes, and a head torch (all of which can be hired in Kersik Tua). Nights are freezing. Do not attempt the climb in wet weather. Fully self-sufficient parties needing a guide will only pay around 700,000Rp per person.
Botanists and twitchers from around the world come for the rare flora and fauna, such as Javanese edelweiss, Schneider’s pitta and the crested wood partridge. Nepenthes (pitcher plants), squirrels, geckos and long-tailed macaques can be found in the lower forest, and troops of yellow-handed mitered langurs are also seen.
Goa KasahCAVE
Considered to be the largest cave system in the Kerinci Valley, and not yet fully explored, Goa Kasah makes for a good day trek (around 2½ hours one way) from the village of Sungai Sampun. The hike isn’t very strenuous, and runs largely through picturesque rice fields before ascending some forested foothills.
Danau KacoLAKE
(Glass Lake)
A two- to three-hour ramble through the jungle along a largely flat (and muddy) path, Danau Kaco will stop you dead in your tracks because you just won’t believe the sight of this small, sapphire-coloured swimming hole, with incredible visibility into its 20m depths. The trail here starts near the village of Lempur Tengah, an hour’s drive from Sungai Penuh.
Danau Gunung TujuhLAKE
(Seven Mountain Lake)
At 1996m, the beautiful caldera of Danau Gunung Tujuh is the highest in Southeast Asia and makes for a pleasant day ascent or part of a multiday trek. It takes 3½ hours to climb to the lake from the park entrance, which is 2km from Pelompek village. Camp near the lake if staying overnight. An ojek to the trailhead costs around 15,000Rp. Homestays in Kersik Tua and Palompek can organise two- or three-day treks (from 300,000Rp per day), including a canoe crossing.
Wildlife in this area includes tapirs and Siamang gibbons, and one of the signature sounds of the Kerinci forests is the hooting and howling call of the gibbon.
Danau KerinciLAKE
Danau Kerinci, 20km south of Sungai Penuh, is a sizeable lake nestled between Gunung Raya (2535m) and rice paddies. Stone carvings around the lake suggest that the area supported a large population in megalithic times. Batu Gong (Gong Stone), in the village of Muak, 25km from Sungai Penuh, is thought to have been carved 2000 years ago. To reach the lake, catch a public bus from Sungai Penuh to Sanggaran Agung (15,000Rp). The last return bus leaves around 5pm.
Air Terjun Telun BerasapWATERFALL
Impressive waterfalls dot the whole Kerinci Valley. The easiest to find are the Air Terjun Telun Berasap in the ‘Letter W’ village 4km north of Pelompek. Look for the ‘Air Terjun Telun Berasap’ sign then walk 300m to a deep, fern-lined ravine where a thunderous torrent of water crashes onto rocks below.
Other impressive falls include the 75m-tall Pancuran Rayo, reachable via a half-hour drive south and then a three-hour hike from Sungai Penuh.
KERINCI SEBLAT NATIONAL PARK’S FLORA & FAUNA
As with many of Sumatra’s protected areas, encroachment by farmers, illegal logging and poaching are all serious issues for Kerinci. The park wardens are a passionate and dedicated lot, and they do stop a lot of the poaching, but greater numbers and more funds are desperately needed. The plight of the Sumatran tiger has been highlighted by Sir David Attenborough as part of Fauna & Flora International’s Tiger Project (www.fauna-flora.org), aimed at saving the Sumatran tiger from extinction.
While the park does have a significant tiger population, spying one in the wild is very rare, and sightings are usually restricted to paw prints and droppings. In previous centuries, local Kerinci people were thought to be weretigers (a shape-shifting synthesis of man and beast), and the tiger is still important in local mysticism and mythology.
Because of the great elevation range within the park, Kerinci has a unique diversity of flora and fauna. Edelweiss and other high-altitude flowers grow in the forest. Lower altitudes bring pitcher plants, orchids, rafflesia and the giant Amorphophallus.
The park sees relatively few visitors, and its minimal tourist infrastructure is limited to the north around the dual attractions of Gunung Kerinci and Gunung Tujuh. While the park’s northern region is more visited, the southern area features elephants – absent in the north – and also has interesting forest-edge communities living within the park’s boundaries, plus excellent trekking through pristine forests.
Contact Wild Sumatra Adventures or Explore Kerinci if you’re keen to explore the park’s southern reaches with organised guides and treks. There are buffer areas for local cultivation and agriculture at the northern and southern edges of the park.
2Activities
oNight SafariSAFARI
Easily doable from Sungai Penuh, a night safari involves driving a stretch of the winding southbound road that passes through the Kerinci Seblat National Park after dark, looking for wildlife in the trees and undergrowth with torches. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot slow loris, civets, flying squirrels, owls and even the odd tiger. Walking is not advisable, lest you become a cat’s dinner.
Renah KemumuHIKING
This is an excellent jungle trek to the remote village of Renah Kemumu that sits in the jungle within the boundaries of the Kerinci Seblat National Park. From Lempur Tengah it takes around 12 to 15 hours one way; you’ll be accompanied by Siamang gibbon calls, with plenty of bird and potential large mammal sightings en route.
8Information
Permits and guides are required to enter Kerinci Seblat National Park. Both can be arranged at the Kantor Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat (park office) in Sungai Penuh or through your losmen. There’s a park office at the entrance to Danau Gunung Tujuh, but it’s rarely staffed.
Permits cost 150,000Rp, English-speaking-guide rates are around 300,000Rp per day, and porters can be hired for 250,000Rp per day. Be sure to clarify exactly what the rates entail, as camping gear, food and transport may be considered additional costs.
8Getting There & Away
While some sights within the national park are accessed by hiking directly out of town, for others you’ll need to arrange a car or ojek to reach the trailhead to begin your trek.
Bengkulu
%0736 / Pop 351,000
The quiet provincial capital of Bengkulu is a real hidden gem and quite possibly the nicest city in Sumatra. Its pedestrian-friendly streets are not desperately traffic-clogged, the beach is kept clean by locals, and there’s a decent eating scene to boot. The city itself is quite light on attractions, beyond a few interesting reminders of the colonial era and an expansive beach. But travellers are beginning to discover the multiple natural attractions beyond the city limits, which make Bengkulu an excellent destination in its own right, rather than just a handy stopover between Padang and Bukittinggi to the north and Krui and Bandar Lampung to the south.
History
Little is known of Bengkulu before it came under the influence of the Majapahits from Java at the end of the 13th century. Until then it appears to have existed in almost total isolation, divided between a number of small kingdoms such as Sungai Lebong in the Curup area. It even developed its own cuneiform script, ka-ga-nga.
In 1685, after having been kicked out of Banten in Java, the British moved into Bengkulu (Bencoolen, as they called it) in search of pepper. The venture was not exactly a roaring success. Isolation, boredom and constant rain sapped the British will, and malaria ravaged their numbers.
The colony was still not a likely prospect in 1818 when Sir Stamford Raffles arrived as its British-appointed ruler. In the short time he was there, Raffles made the pepper market profitable and planted cash crops of coffee, nutmeg and sugar cane. In 1824 Bengkulu was traded for the Dutch outpost of Melaka as a guarantee not to interfere with British interests in Singapore.
From 1938 to 1941 Bengkulu was a home-in-domestic-exile for Indonesia’s first president, Sukarno; his house today is a museum (Rumah Pengasingan Bung Karno; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 3000Rp; h8am-6pm).
1Sights
oFort MarlboroughFORT
(Benteng Marlborough; Jl Benteng; 5000Rp; h7.30am-6.30pm)
Set on a hill overlooking the Indian Ocean, the star-shaped Benteng Marlborough, a former British fort, became the seat of British power in Bengkulu after 1719, when it replaced nearby Fort York. Despite its sturdy defences the fort was attacked and overrun twice – once by a local rebellion just after its completion in 1719, and then by the French in 1760. It was also used by the Dutch, Japanese and Indonesian military.
Today the complex comprises museums in the original fort building, along with historic cannons and gravestones. There are a few interesting old engravings and copies of official correspondence from the time of British rule, and you can also see where the Dutch incarcerated Indonesia’s President Sukarno during his internal exile. You can walk up along the fortress walls for views of the coast and the surrounding town.
British CemeteryCEMETERY
(Jl Rejamat; h6am-6.30pm) 
F
A fascinating remnant from the British rule in Bengkulu is this historical cemetery featuring gravestones of the English dating back to 1770. It’s a well-maintained site at the rear of the church.
Pantai PanjangBEACH
Bengkulu’s main beach, Pantai Panjang, is 7km of clean white sand. Strong surf and currents make it unsafe for swimming, but there are decent surf breaks towards the northern and southern ends of the beach. Unusually for Sumatra, there’s also a jogging track that stretches the length of the beach, shaded by pine trees.
State Museum of Bengkulu ProvinceMUSEUM
(Museum Negeri Provinsi Bengkulu; %0736-22098; Jl Pembangunan 8; 3000Rp; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun)
Like every provincial capital in Sumatra, Bengkulu has a museum covering the local traditional culture, with exhibits including Arabic-influenced lettered Besurek batik, traditional architecture, cooking utensils, weaponry, manuscripts and displays on British rule. There are no English captions.
HIKING & TREKKING
The Bengkulu region has a huge wealth of attractions that are only beginning to be explored by travellers. These range from multiday volcano and jungle treks, and exploring hot springs, lakes and rivers, to participating in elephant conservation and interacting with locals in remote villages. Most of these trips are arranged through the highly recommended Wild Sumatra Tours, which is on hand to advise and organise, guided by your specific interests. Prices are based on two participants: the more participants, the cheaper it is.
Beringin Tiga & Curug Embun This is a straightforward hike through coffee and palm-sugar plantations, finishing at a campsite near a beautiful natural hot spring. From here you can take short hikes to visit the Beringin Tiga falls and the remarkable Curug Embun falls, which comprises two falls: one cold and the other fed by hot springs, with great swimming where the two meet. Safety ropes assist descents to Curug Embun. It’s 33km south of Curup, which is an 84km drive northeast of Bengkulu.
Bukit Daun Famous for its seven multicoloured boiling pools, the whitest allegedly home to the Kawah Putri spirit who’ll come if you call her, Bukit Daun makes for a challenging three-day adventure. It involves trekking through tobacco and coffee plantations and dense jungle, two nights camping in the jungle and a pit stop to wash in a small waterfall.
Bukit Kaba (permit 100,000Rp) This active volcano with three craters makes for a relatively straightforward ascent with two trail options: an easier gravel path or a tougher trail through dense jungle. Both take around three hours. From the top there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and a whiff of sulphur from the single active crater. Camping near the summit so you can explore the craters is highly recommended. It’s around 30km from Curup.
Seblat Elephant Conservation Centre (%0811 731 1003; www.wildsumatratours.com/seblat-elephant-conservation-center; 2 days/1 night for 2 people US$500) This is a conservation project set up to manage human-elephant conflict, as well as to protect the forests and wildlife. Here you can assist mahouts on elephant treks, on anything from two-day trips to 10-day jungle patrols on the lookout for wild elephants and tigers. While the centre is one of only a handful of legitimate elephant conservation centres in Indonesia, note that elephant rides present various animal-welfare issues, so you might want to reconsider taking part. It’s very much a grassroots initiative and is not designed with tourists in mind, so the camping and jungle conditions can make it rough going. It’s located near Mukomuko, en route between Bengkulu and Sungai Penuh, so it’s a good stopover for those heading to Kerinci. Funds generated by visitors contribute to the care of elephants in residence, the protection of wild elephants in the region, and jungle patrols to prevent poaching.
TTours
oWild Sumatra ToursADVENTURE
(%0811 731 1003; www.wildsumatratours.com)
The indefatigable Josh and his team have done wonders in terms of opening up the Bengkulu region to adventurous travellers. Whether you’re into trekking, jungle adventure, volcano climbing, caving, river tubing or swimming in pristine, remote waterfalls or hot springs, these guys can help you organise your adventure. They also run Bengkulu city tours.
4Sleeping
Tropicana GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%0736-732 5328; http://tropicanaguesthouse.business.site; Jl Muhammad Hasan 48; r incl breakfast with shared/private bathroom 150,000/220,000Rp, ste 320,000Rp; aW)
Well located within walking distance of most places of interest, the laid-back Tropicana makes for an excellent budget choice. Painted in mauve, rooms are a tad garish, but they’re well priced and comfortable, with air-con and wi-fi. There’s a small communal kitchen with fridge, nasi goreng for breakfast, and the owner speaks English.
Pring Gading Surf CampGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 3330 9595, 0812 7330 9595; yadi.pringgading@gmail.com; Jl Jenggalu; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 100,000/200,000Rp; aW)
At the southern end of the city, and not far from the beach, Yadi’s place is the heart and soul of the local surfer community, with boards as well as motorbikes (both 50,000Rp) for rent. It’s all a bit ramshackle, but that’s part of the appeal, and the rooms themselves are spotless. Yadi and Vivi also run a good cafe.
You’ll get to sample their pastries for breakfast.
Splash HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0736-23333; www.hotel-splash.com; Jl Sudirman 48; r incl breakfast from 495,000Rp; aW)
Bengkulu’s first stab at a designer hotel is a goodie and features a colourful designer lobby and well-appointed rooms with modern bathrooms. There’s an on-site cafe and restaurant, and the location on one of the city’s top food streets, lined with myriad stalls in the evenings, is a boon for the hungry.
5Eating & Drinking
Bencoolen Coffee HouseBISTRO$
(Jl BRI; mains 18,000-60,000Rp; h3-11pm Tue-Sun)
Just across from the British Cemetery is this German-owned cafe that’s the go-to place if you’re hankering for Western comfort food. Decide between stone-oven pizza, bratwurst or burgers, while being sure to leave room for the homemade ice cream or red velvet cake. It’s a lovely garden space that’s also perfect for a cold beer or coffee.
oMarolaSEAFOOD$$
(Jl Pariwisata; mains around 70,000Rp; h8am-8.30pm Tue-Sun, to 4pm Mon)
At this classic, locally famous seafood joint by the beach, near central Bengkulu, you can choose from ultra-fresh giant prawns, squid and fish, then pay by weight, and pick from an array of sauces you’d like your seafood cooked in. Wash it down with a cold beer, and kick back to enjoy the balmy evening.
AlohaINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0812 7846 6691; www.aloharesto.com; Jl Pariwisata; mains from 35,000Rp; h10am-11.30pm; Wv)
Just across from the beach is this Australian-owned place that does primarily Western pub food, along with seafood dishes and Indonesian staples. They serve beer, but it’s pricey and not always cold.
Edu CoffeeCAFE
(%0736-22626; Jl Suprapto 1-2; h9am-11pm; W)
One for coffee aficionados, Edu Coffee is a microroastery that sources arabica beans locally as well as from across the archipelago. It has all the tools of the trade to prepare the perfect cup – AeroPress, V60, siphon, espresso machine and tubruk (unfiltered coffee); ask if owner Andy is around to see what seasonal concoctions he’s brewing. They also do food and cold beers.
8Information
Bengkulu has no shortage of ATMs accepting foreign cards.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Bengkulu’s Fatmawati Soekarno Airport (Jl Bandara Fatmawati Soekarno) is 10km southeast of town and has 10 daily flights to Jakarta with Citilink, Lion Air, Garuda, Sriwijaya Air and Batik Air. Garuda and Wings Air have daily flights to Palembang, Padang and Pulau Batam.
BUS
The bus-company offices in Tanah Patah along Jl Parman or Jl MT Haryono are your best bet. Ask around and you’ll quickly be steered to the most appropriate company for your destination. Jakarta is served by large buses, while other destinations are served by minibuses.
BUSES FROM BENGKULU
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bandar Lampung |
150,000-350,000 |
8 |
several daily |
| Bukittinggi |
150,000-200,000 |
17 |
several daily |
| Jakarta |
340,000-400,000 |
22-30 |
numerous daily |
| Krui |
250,000 |
10 |
several daily |
| Padang |
235,000 |
15 |
several daily |
| Sungai Penuh |
130,000 |
10-12 |
2 daily |
8Getting Around
From Bengkulu’s airport, taxis charge around 50,000Rp.
Download the apps for Grab and Go-Jek for the quickest and cheapest ways to get around. Otherwise there are the usual angkot, ojek and taxi options.
Riau
The landscape and character of Riau province is distinct from northern and western Sumatra. Rather than being shaped by mountains and volcanoes, Riau’s character was carved by rivers and narrow ocean passages. Trading towns sprang up along the important navigation route of the Strait of Melaka, across which Riau claims cultural cousins.
For the port towns, such as Pekanbaru, and the Riau Islands, proximity to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur has ensured greater access to the outside world than the towns of the interior Sumatran jungle. The discovery of oil and gas reserves has also built an educated and middle-class population in Pekanbaru.
The interior of the province more closely resembles Sumatra as a whole: sparse population, dense jungle, Buddhist temple ruins, surviving pockets of nomadic peoples (including the Sakai, Kubu and Jambisal) and endangered species, such as the Sumatran rhinoceros and tiger.
History
Riau’s position at the southern entrance to the Strait of Melaka, the gateway for trade between India and China, was strategically significant. From the 16th century, the Riau Islands were ruled by a variety of Malay kingdoms, which had to fight off constant attacks by pirates and the Portuguese, Dutch and English. The Dutch eventually won control over the Strait of Melaka, and mainland Riau (then known as Siak) became their colony when the Sultan of Johor surrendered in 1745. However, Dutch interest lay in international trade, and it made little effort to develop the province.
Oil was discovered around Pekanbaru by US engineers before WWII, and the country around Pekanbaru is criss-crossed by pipelines that connect the oil wells to refineries at Dumai.
Pekanbaru
%0761 / Pop 1.1 million
Purely one for lovers of big cities, Pekanbaru is possibly worth a night, with an interesting museum, some good spots to eat and a cool rooftop bar. However, in reality, pretty much the only reason why you’d briefly pass through Pekanbaru is if you’re en route to the Riau Islands or Singapore via Dumai, or arriving from or heading west to Bukittinggi.
Indonesia’s oil capital comes with all the hustle and bustle of a modern city, with the added plague of smoke from the burning oil-palm plantations periodically shutting down the city’s airport during the dry season.
1Sights
Museum Sang Nila UtamaMUSEUM
(Jl Sudirman 194; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Sat & Sun) F
This museum does an excellent job in detailing Riau culture, with interesting displays on ceremonial clothing, architecture, traditional artefacts, batik and natural history, plus a display on the Candi Muara Takus Buddhist site. Upstairs there’s an eclectic collection of objects and coverage of the local mining industry.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CANDI MUARA TAKUS
Hidden away in a jungle clearing halfway between Bukittinggi and Pekanbaru are these low-key Buddhist temple ruins (Kampar; 8000Rp; h8am-6pm), believed to date to the 11th century. A part of the Sriwijaya kingdom, the complex (which was restored in 1980) is compact in size, with only four brick-and-stone stupas, however it’s an incredibly peaceful and evocative site. Most notable are the towering 14m-tall lotus-shaped Candi Mahugai, and Candi Tua, which resembles a UFO that’s landed on a platform.
It’s 90km north of Harau Valley, around a two-hour drive. To get here you can rent a motorbike from Abdi Homestay (75,000Rp), or take an ojek (175,000Rp) or private car (500,000Rp).
4Sleeping
Red Planet PekanbaruDESIGN HOTEL$
(%0761-851008; www.redplanethotels.com; Jl Tengku Zainal Abidin 23; r from 222,000Rp; aW)
This centrally located, reliable chain is just a couple of blocks from the main road of Jl Sudirman. Red Planet’s snug rooms are all blonde wood, with plenty of light and contemporary furnishings.
5Eating & Drinking
RM Kota BuanaINDONESIAN$
(Jl H Cokroaminoto 16; meals around 30,000Rp; h6.30am-8.30pm)
In a city known for its quality Padang food, this longstanding, humble restaurant is a standout in Pekanbaru. The beef rendang and ayam goreng (fried chicken) are winning choices.
oSky Garden & LoungeROOFTOP BAR
(%0761-861122; www.facebook.com/skygardenpekanbaru; Jl Ahmad Yani; h2-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Escape Pekanbaru’s grind and head up to the top of Sumatra’s tallest building to enjoy a cold beer or cocktail with 360-degree city views. Its outdoor bar has a luxurious feel with contemporary furniture and palm trees, and there’s an indoor cafe with tempting cakes, charcoal bun burgers, bar snacks and Indonesian dishes.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Pekanbaru’s airport, Sultan Syarif Kasim II Airport (www.sultansyarifkasim2-airport.co.id), is 10km south of the city. There are daily flights to major towns across Sumatra and Java, as well to Singapore and Malaysia.
BUS
Most buses depart from Pekanbaru’s main bus terminal, Terminal AKAP (Jl Tuanku Tambusai), 5km west of the city centre. However, it’s best to confirm with your hotel where your preferred choice is departing from, as some companies bypass the terminal altogether. Karya Maju Travel (%0761-47133) runs a handy express minibus (economy/executive 120,000/250,000Rp) to Dumai, for ferries to Malaysia.
BUSES FROM PEKANBARU
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bengkulu |
250,000 |
15 |
5pm daily |
| Bukittinggi |
80,000-120,000 |
8 |
numerous daily |
| Dumai |
80,000 |
5 |
hourly 7am to around 6pm |
| Jambi |
180,000 |
12 |
2 daily |
8Getting Around
Airport taxis and taxis from the bus terminal charge around 100,000Rp to town. However, as with all big Indonesian cities, Grab and Go-Jek online taxis are the best means of getting around. The city’s Trans Metro (rapid bus transit) service runs along Jl Sudirman to the bus terminal (4000Rp).
Dumai
%0765 / Pop 316,700
Riau’s second-largest city, Dumai is a gritty port town that’s only of note as a transport hub for those catching the ferry to Malaysia or Pulau Batam. If you time it right, it’s relatively straighforward to link to or from Bukittinggi without overnighting here.
If you need a bed for the night then it’s best to head to JL Sudirman, which has a string of reliable three-star hotels. There’s not too many recommendable budget options.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Wings Air operates daily flights from Pekanbaru to Dumai (30 minutes, 420,000Rp).
BOAT
To Malaysia
If you’re fresh from Malaysia, the port area will seem like a bit of a scrum.
From Dumai several ferry companies operate services to three different ports in Malaysia: Melaka, Port Klang and Port Dickson. Note you’ll need to pay an 50,000Rp departure tax in Dumai, while those arriving at Port Klang will need to pay the RM23 arrival tax.
You can buy tickets through Indomal Express (%0853 7567 0000; www.facebook.com/indomaldumai; Jl Sudirman 425) for the following destinations:
Melaka (adult/child 320,000/160,000Rp, 2½ hours) Daily departures at 9.30am.
Port Klang (adult/child 350,000/175,000Rp, four hours) Three boats a week departing at noon on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
Port Dickson (adult/child 330,000/125,000Rp, three hours) Leaving at 11am on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday.
To Pulau Batam
Dumai Express (%0813 7882 2999) has a daily boat to Sekupang port on Pulau Batam (400,000Rp, seven hours), departing at 6am.
BUS
Buses connect Dumai to Bukittinggi (125,000Rp to 240,000Rp, 10 hours).There are regular buses from Dumai to Pekanbaru (80,000Rp, five hours), or more convenient express minibuses with Karya Maju Travel (%0765-35239; from 120,000Rp).
If you’re travelling from Bukittinggi, Bukittinggi Wisata Express has a nightly minibus (nine hours) linking with morning ferry departures from Dumai.
Pulau Batam
%0778
Batam’s golf resorts and casinos attract a weekender contingent from Singapore and mainland China. For travellers, Batam is no more than a transport hub with connections to many different parts of the country. With its multitude of massage parlours and bars there’s a seedy aspect to it, so if you’re winding up your stay in Indonesia before crossing the strait to Singapore, you’re better off spending the night in Bintan.
On Batam, Singapore dollars are as easy to spend as Indonesian rupiah. There are plenty of ATMs at the airport and around Nagoya, Batam Centre and Sekupang.
Useful tourist websites include Enjoy Batam (www.enjoybatam.com) and Welcome to Batam (www.welcometobatam.com).
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The Hang Nadim Airport is located on the eastern side of Pulau Batam. There are many daily flights to Jakarta, Medan and other major cities in Sumatra and Java.
BOAT
To Mainland Sumatra
From Batam’s Sekupang port, Dumai Express (PT Lestari Indoma Bahari; %0765-31820; Sekupang Domestic Terminal) runs mainland Sumatra ferries daily to both Tanjung Buton (240,000Rp, four to five hours) and Dumai (400,000Rp, seven hours); a minibus links to Pekanbaru (around three hours).
Batam Jet (%0778-427666; Sekupang Domestic Terminal) has a boat at 7pm from Sekupang to Dumai (400,000Rp, eight hours). You’ll also need to pay 10,000Rp for a boarding pass.
To Malaysia
Passenger ferries (255,000Rp, two hours) run between Johor Bahru’s Stulang Laut port and Batam Centre (15 per day) and Harbour Bay (four per day).
To Singapore
For Singapore, Batam’s three main ports are Batam Centre, Harbour Bay (near Nagoya) and Sekupang on the northwest coast. In Singapore they arrive mainly at HarbourFront, as well as Tanah Merah.
The main ferry operators include Batam Fast (%0778-321120; www.batamfast.com), Majestic Ferry (%Batam Centre 0778-479999, Sekupang 0778-323377; www.majesticfastferry.com) and Sindo Ferry (%Batam Centre 0778-465555, Harbour Bay 0778-381059, Sekupang 0778-321691; www.sindoferry.com.sg).
BOATS FROM BATAM TO SINGAPORE
| DEPARTURE/ARRIVAL |
FERRY |
PRICE (RP) |
FREQUENCY |
| Batam Centre/HarbourFront |
Batam Fast |
103,000 |
12 daily |
| Harbour Bay/Tanah Merah & HarbourFront |
Batam Fast |
103,000 |
4 daily |
| Sekupang/HarbourFront |
Batam Fast |
260,000 |
10 daily |
| Batam Centre/HarbourFront |
Majestic Ferry |
195,000 |
14 daily |
| Batam Centre/Tanah Merah |
Majestic Ferry |
195,000 |
4 daily |
| Sekupang/HarbourFront |
Majestic Ferry |
195,000 |
9 daily |
| Batam Centre/HarbourFront |
Sindo Ferry |
103,000 |
12 daily |
| Harbour Bay/HarbourFront |
Sindo Ferry |
260,000 |
3 daily |
| Sekupang/HarbourFront |
Sindo Ferry |
103,000 |
8 daily |
8Getting Around
Trans Batam BRT (bus rapid transit) is the local public transport, with links to the port towns of Sekupang, Nagoya and Batam Centre.
Metered taxis and Grab online taxis are the primary ways to get around Pulau Batam. A taxi from the airport to Nagoya is around 130,000Rp. From Sekupang to Nagoya count on around 70,000Rp, or half this with Grab.
Nagoya
This original boom town shows a lot more skin than you’ll find in the rest of Sumatra. The heart of town is the Nagoya Entertainment District, dotted with beer bars, shopping malls and massage parlours. It ain’t pretty, but Nagoya is ultimately functional, and a good place for dining out and an overnight stay if you’re travelling to or from Singapore by boat.
4Sleeping & Eating
New Hotel Sinar BulanHOTEL$
(%0778-456757; Jl Pembangunan; r 220,000-300,000Rp; aW)
A friendly hotel just a couple of blocks from the Nagoya Hill Mall and various eating establishments. While rooms are stock standard, the fact that they’re clean and air-conditioned means this place is a win – especially if the helpful English-speaking staff are working. Across the road is the old hotel (rooms from 150,000Rp), which has a restaurant downstairs.
Indo RasaINDONESIAN$
(Jl Imam Bonjol; dishes from 20,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
This lively food precinct in a building on the main thoroughfare across from Nagoya Hill is a good spot for local hawker-style food. There’s a bunch of different stalls cooking up anything from ayam penyet (East Javanese fried chicken) to barbecue fish and Chinese dim sum. Cold beers are on hand to wash it down.
8Getting There & Away
Harbour Bay is the closest port to Nagoya, which has regular boats to Singapore. Nagoya is located around 16km west of Hang Nadim Airport, which is around 130,000Rp by taxi or 70,000Rp by Grab. It’s 24km to the harbour for boats to Tanjung Pinang.
Nagoya is linked by public transport to Sekupang and Batam Centre via the Trans Batam bus system.
Pulau Bintan
Just across the water from Singapore, Pulau Bintan has some of the nicest white-sand beaches in Sumatra. While it markets itself as a high-end playground for well-heeled visitors from Singapore and beyond, there is some affordable accommodation too.
Top-end resorts huddle around the Lagoi area on the island’s north coast, in close proximity to Singapore. However, less exclusive options along the east coast around Pantai Trikora are equally nice.
Skip the pricey, all-inclusive Lagoi resorts and instead explore Bintan’s cultural heart in the area around the island’s largest town, Tanjung Pinang. A world away from ultra-clean Singapore, the noisy, dusty streets and mishmash of building styles exude a rustic charm.
Small boats run locals and visitors to Senggarang, where you’ll find a Chinese village on stilts, and Penyenget, a small island with royal tombs, palaces, a mosque and a wonderfully rural atmosphere.
8Information
The Tourist Information Office in Trikora has a good website, although it’s in Bahasa Indonesia; use Google Translate.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
The incredibly itchy bite of Bintan’s tiny sand flies can be an irritant for beach goers. Bring along insect repellent containing DEET and remember to reapply it after swimming. Also pack calamine lotion to treat itchy bites; this is important as they can easily become infected.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Raja Haji Fisabilillah Airport (%0771-442434; www.rajahajifisabilillah-airport.co.id; Jl Adi Sucipto, Km12) is located in the southeast of Pulau Bintan. There are daily flights to Jakarta with Garuda, Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air. There are also direct flights to Pekanbaru.
BOAT
Pulau Bintan has two main ferry terminals, with destinations including Pulau Batam, Singapore, Malaysia and other islands in the Riau archipelago. Tanjung Pinang, on the western side of the island, is the busiest harbour and the best option for those heading to Pulau Batam or Pantai Trikora. If you’re bound for the resort area of Lagoi, the Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) ferry terminal is more convenient. Tandjunguban port on the west coast is another option for those heading to Batam.
To Singapore
Ferries from Tanjung Pinang and the Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) ferry terminal depart to Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal daily.
Ferry companies include Bintan Resort Ferries, Majestic Fast Ferry and Sindo Ferry.
To Malaysia
From Tanjung Pinang ferry teminal there are boats to Johor Bahru’s Berjaya Waterfront ferry terminal.
To Pulau Batam
Fast ferries (47,000Rp) depart from Tanjung Pinang’s ferry terminal for Telaga Punggur on Batam every 30 minutes from 7.20am to 6.30pm daily; there are also two daily RORO (roll-on, roll-off) car ferries. Boats also depart from Tandjunguban port on the west coast, handy if you’re coming from Trikora or Lagoi.
To Elsewhere in Indonesia
Daily ferries depart from Tanjung Pinang’s ferry terminal to other islands in the Riau chain, such as Pulau Karimun, Pulau Kundur and Pulau Lingga.
8Getting Around
Bintan is one place in Indonesia where renting a car is a viable option, given the roads are relatively quiet and in good condition.
Supra (%0859 7788 0090) is a reliable and friendly English-speaking taxi driver. Expect to pay around 300,000Rp from Tanjung Pinang to Trikora. He can hire out motorbikes too, but bargain hard.
Tanjung Pinang
%0771 / Pop 225,000
Bintan’s capital Tanjung Pinang is a historic port town and trade centre with a still-thriving market culture and plenty of hustle and bustle. Touts swarm as you get off the ferry, but the town is easy to navigate without their persistent ‘assistance’. Few travellers linger long here, but there are a couple of worthwhile attractions that make it an interesting spot to spend a night.
1Sights
oPulau PenyengetISLAND
Pulau Penyenget, reached by frequent boats (7000Rp) from the Tanjung Pinang pier, was once the capital of the Riau rajahs. The ruins of the old palace of Rajah Ali and the tombs and graveyards of Rajah Jaafar and Rajah Ali are signposted inland. The most impressive site is the sulphur-coloured mosque, with its many domes and minarets.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel PanoramaHOTEL$
(%0811 700 0432, 0771-22920; www.bintanpanorama.com; Jl Haji Agus Salim 21; d incl breakfast from 242,000Rp; a
iW)
Hotel Panorama, a 10-minute walk from the Tanjung Pinang ferry terminal, has a stuffy English B&B feel to it, and features clean and spacious rooms. Hot-water showers, air-con, fast wi-fi, cable TV and room service ensure a comfortable stay. Rates includes a buffet breakfast in its downstairs restaurant, and there’s also a rooftop bar.
Melayu SquareINDONESIAN$
(Jl Hang Tuah; dishes around 20,000Rp; h5-10pm)
Come sunset, stroll to this lively strip of food stalls that cook up fresh seafood, noodles and all kinds of streetside snacks.
8Information
Tourist Information Office (%0771-318223; Jl Merdeka 5; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Outside the police station near the port is this small office that can assist with arranging tours and transport around the island.
8Getting There & Away
Tanjung Pinang is easily reached by boat from Singapore, Malaysia, Pulau Batam and other islands in the Riau Island chain.
Raja Haji Fisabilillah Airport is located 10km east of Tanjung Pinang and is easily reached by taxi. There are daily flights to Jakarta with Garuda, Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air.
Majestic Fast Ferry (%0771-450 0199; www.majesticfastferry.com.sg; Sri Bintan Pura Ferry Terminal) and Sindo Ferry (%0771-316886, in Singapore +65 6331 4122; www.sindoferry.com.sg; Sri Bintan Pura Ferry Terminal) sail around four times a day each from Tanjung Pinang to Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal. To Malaysia, boats to Stulang Laut (310,000Rp, three hours) depart daily at 7am, 12.30pm and 3pm. Note there’s a 60,000Rp departure tax.
Dumai Express (%0852 6557 3188, 0813 7882 2999, 0771-25888; dumex_dumai@yahoo.com) has a daily ferry at 6am to Dumai (430,000Rp, nine hours) on mainland Sumatra.
Fast ferries to Pulau Batam (47,000Rp) depart every 30 minutes.
Senggarang
This predominantly Chinese village, on the other side of the bay from Tanjung Pinang on Pulau Bintan, is easily reached by a 25km taxi ride, or a 10-minute boat ride. The main attractions of this area are the floating stilt Chinese village and several Buddhist temples, including one that has been basically swallowed by a banyan tree.
1Sights
Banyan Tree TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
This particularly unusual temple is housed in a building dating from the early 19th century. Originally owned by a wealthy Chinese man, believed to be buried here, the building has, over the years, been swallowed up by the roots of a large banyan tree. It’s only in recent decades that the site has become a shrine, as locals and devotees from further afield began to come here to give offerings and ask for blessings.
You can get back to the jetty from here without returning to the Vihara Dharma Sasana temple complex; just take the first left on your way back.
Vihara Dharma SasanaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
This well-maintained temple complex, looking out to sea, is accessed through a beautifully decorative Chinese archway and contains three main temples. The oldest two, and the first ones you approach after walking through the archway, are thought to be between 200 and 300 years old, although they have been repainted and repaired many times. Their roof carvings are particularly ornate. Behind them is a more modern temple and two huge and very colourful Buddha statues.
Trikora & Around
Pulau Bintan’s east coast is a more authentic and laid-back alternative to the manicured resorts of Lagoi, while still also lined with attractive white-sand beaches. The most established is Pantai Trikora, though Mutiara Beach further north along the coast is fast gaining in popularity. The small islands off Pantai Trikora are also worth visiting and have snorkelling outside the monsoon season. The Museum Bahari Bintan is a must-visit for those interested in Bintan’s fascinating culture and history.
1Sights
oMuseum Bahari BintanMUSEUM
(Jl Trikora, Km36; h8.30am-4pm) F
This fascinating maritime museum is a surprising find along this sleepy coastal road. Housed within a building shaped like a ship, it has an unlikely setting in the middle of an Islamic study centre, which doubles as a tourist information office (www.bintantourism.com; h8am-3.15pm Mon-Fri). It has beautifully presented exhibits that cover local curiosities such as the kelong (floating fishing buildings) you’ll see out to sea and detailed model ships, and it provides interesting background on the lifestyle of the nomadic Orang Laut sea tribes.
BerakitVILLAGE
(Panglong)
On Pulau Bintan’s far northeast tip, Berakit is a small, curious fishing village populated with Orang Laut (which translates to ‘people of the sea’), a nomadic ethnic group known traditionally to reside in boats out at sea across the Malay region. Here they have a permanent settlement in stilt houses built over the water. Also in the village are two large igloo-shaped kilns that were used to produce charcoal, as well as a small church.
4Sleeping
oMutiara Beach GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0821 7121 1988; www.mutiarabintan.com; Jl Trikora, Km 55; campsite incl breakfast 90,000Rp, d 500,000-1,100,000Rp; aW)
At this Swiss-run hideaway, gorgeous thatched bungalows with spacious verandahs sit amid unruly vegetation right by a pristine beach; its shallow waters are good for swimming. Its restaurant serves local and Western dishes, and by the water it has a small beach club with deck lounges, satellite TV, bar and library. There’s also its rustic Aroma River Spa (treatments from 280,000Rp; h10am-6pm), perfect for relaxing close to nature.
There are also stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), kayaks, bicycles and snorkelling gear for hire.
oTrikora Beach ClubRESORT$$$
(%0811 7700 898; www.trikorabeachclub.com; Jl Pemuklman; d incl breakfast US$125-165; as)
Rustic whitewashed beach huts and a white sandy beach make this chillaxed resort popular with visitors from neighbouring Singapore looking for a quick, cheap getaway. The gorgeous blue-tiled pool is perfect for a cooling dip, as is the clear ocean, where you can try snorkelling and numerous water sports. The restaurant serves decent food.
8Getting There & Away
Expect to pay around 300,000Rp for a taxi from Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) ferry terminal in Lagoi to Trikora, and a similar price for a taxi from Tanjung Pinang. Supra is a recommended driver.
From both ferry terminals an ojek is around 150,000Rp.
Lagoi
Pulau Bintan’s gated resort area stretches along the northern coastline of the island at Pasir Lagoi. The beaches are sandy and swimmable, the resorts have polished four- and five-star service, and there are water-sports and entertainment options for all ages. Weekday discounts can be as generous as 50% off.
4Sleeping
Mayang Sari Beach ResortRESORT$$$
(%0770-692505; http://mayang.nirwanagardens.com; Jl Panglima Pantar; d incl breakfast from 2,350,000Rp; aW)
This good-value, lower-end resort features 50 thatched-roof, Balinese-style chalets, each with its own verandah and choice of a garden or sea view. The property sits on a blissful white-sand beach, and features land and water sports as well a spa.
8Getting There & Around
If you’re bound for the resort area of Lagoi, the Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) ferry terminal is the most convenient ferry point on Pulau Bintan. Bintan Resort Ferries (%0770-691935, in Singapore +65 6542 4372; www.brf.com.sg; Bandar Bentan Telani Ferry Terminal) connects with Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal.
Shuttle services between the BBT ferry terminal and Lagoi resorts are usually part of their package prices.
Jambi
%0741 / Pop 583,500
The capital of Jambi province is a busy river port about 155km from the mouth of the Sungai Batang Hari. The main reason to visit is for its large temple complex at Muara Jambi, 26km downstream from Jambi – the single biggest attraction on Sumatra’s east coast. Jambi also has a pleasantly low-key and friendly vibe, especially around the riverfront food stalls that kick off at dusk and look out at the city’s abstract pedestrian bridge.
Jambi’s ATMs cluster around Jl Dr Sutomo.
History
The province of Jambi was the heartland of the ancient kingdom of Malayu, which first rose to prominence in the 7th century. Much of Malayu’s history is closely and confusingly entwined with that of its main regional rival, the Palembang-based kingdom of Sriwijaya.
It is assumed that the temple ruins at Muara Jambi mark the site of Malayu’s former capital, the ancient city of Jambi (known to the Chinese as Chan Pi). The Malayu sent their first delegation to China in 644 and the Chinese scholar I Tsing spent a month in Malayu in 672. When he returned 20 years later he found that Malayu had been conquered by Sriwijaya. The Sriwijayans appear to have remained in control until the sudden collapse of their empire at the beginning of the 11th century.
Following Sriwijaya’s demise, Malayu re-emerged as an independent kingdom and stayed that way until it became a dependency of Java’s Majapahit empire, which ruled from 1278 until 1520. It then came under the sway of the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra before 1616, when it came under the control of the Dutch East India Company, which maintained a trade monopoly here until 1901 before moving its headquarters to Palembang.
1Sights
oMuara JambiRUINS
(5000Rp; h7am-6pm)
This scattering of ruined and partially restored temples is the most important Hindu-Buddhist site in Sumatra. The temples are believed to mark the location of the ancient city of Jambi, capital of the kingdom of Malayu 1000 years ago. Most of the candi (temples) date from the 9th to the 13th centuries, when Jambi’s power was at its peak. Grab a bicycle (per day 10,000Rp) at the entrance to explore the immensely peaceful forested site, marvelling at the temple stonework
The forested site covers 12 sq km along the northern bank of the Batang Hari. The entrance is through an ornate archway in the village of Muara Jambi and most places of interest are within a few minutes’ walk. While you can wander to most of the temples on foot, to get to some of the more outlying western ruins it’s best to get a bike. Much of the site still needs excavating and there is some debate as to whether visitors should be allowed to clamber all over the ruins and the restored temples.
Eight temples have been identified so far, each at the centre of its own low-walled compound. Some are accompanied by perwara candi (smaller side temples) and three have been restored to something close to their original form. The site is dotted with numerous menapo (smaller brick mounds), thought to be the ruins of other buildings – possibly dwellings for priests and other high officials.
The restored temple Candi Gumpung, straight ahead from the donation office, has a fiendish makara (demon head) guarding its steps. Excavation work here has yielded some important finds, including a peripih (stone box) containing sheets of gold inscribed with old Javanese characters, dating the temple back to the 9th century. A statue of Prajnyaparamita found here, and other stone carvings and ceramics, are among the highlights at the small site museum nearby. However, the best artefacts have been taken to Jakarta.
Candi Tinggi, 200m southeast of Candi Gumpung, is the finest of the temples uncovered so far. It dates from the 9th century but is built around another, older temple. A path leads east from Candi Tinggi to Candi Astano, 1.5km away, passing the attractive Candi Kembar Batu, surrounded by palm trees, and lots of menapo along the way.
The temples on the western side of the site are yet to be restored. They remain pretty much as they were found – minus the jungle, which was cleared in the 1980s. The western sites are signposted from Candi Gumpung. First stop, after 900m, is Candi Gedong I, followed 150m further on by Candi Gedong II. They are independent temples despite what their names may suggest. The path continues west for another 1.5km to Candi Kedaton, the largest of the temples, which, apart from a staircase guarded by deity statuettes, comprises just the base foundation; it’s a peaceful and evocative site. A further 900m northwest is Candi Koto Mahligai.
For centuries the site lay abandoned and overgrown in the jungle on the banks of the Batang Hari. It was ‘rediscovered’ in 1920 by a British army expedition sent to explore the region. The dwellings of the ordinary Malayu people have been replaced by contemporary stilt houses of the Muara Jambi village residents. According to Chinese records, Malayu people once lived along the river in stilted houses or in raft huts moored to the bank.
There is no public transport from Jambi (26km away) to Muara Jambi. You can charter a speedboat (400,000Rp) from Jambi’s river pier to the site. A Grab taxi will cost around 120,000Rp one way, or you can hire an ojek (50,000Rp).
Museum SiginjaiMUSEUM
(www.museumsiginjei.blogspot.com; Jl Jenderal Urip Sumoharjo; adult/child 2000/1000Rp; h8am-4pm Sun-Fri)
This province museum covers all aspects of Jambi’s cultural heritage, and is definitely worth a visit. Exhibits in English take in Buddhist temples in Muara Jambi, the Orang Rimba ethnic group, wildlife, and traditional architecture and everyday objects. It’s 4km southwest from the city centre.
ORANG RIMBA
Jambi’s nomadic hunter-gatherers are known by many names: outsiders refer to the diverse tribes collectively as Kubu, an unflattering term, while they refer to themselves as Orang Rimba (People of the Forest) or Anak Dalam (Children of the Forest). Descended from the first wave of Malays to migrate to Sumatra, they once lived in highly mobile groups throughout Jambi’s lowland forests.
As fixed communities began to dominate the province, the Orang Rimba retained their nomadic lifestyle and animistic beliefs, regarding their neighbours’ adoption of Islam and agriculture as disrespectful towards the forest. Traditionally the Orang Rimba avoided contact with the outsiders, preferring to barter and trade by leaving goods on the fringes of the forest or relying on trusted intermediaries.
In the 1960s, the Indonesian government’s social affairs and religion departments campaigned to assimilate the Orang Rimba into permanent camps and convert them to a monotheistic religion. Meanwhile the jungles were being transformed into rubber and oil-palm plantations during large-scale transmigrasi (government-sponsored schemes to encourage settlers to move from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated ones) from Java and Bali.
Some Orang Rimba assimilated and are now economically marginalised within the plantations, while others live off government funds and then return to the forests. Just over 2000 Orang Rimba retain their traditional lifestyles within the shrinking forest. The groups were given special settlement rights within Bukit Duabelas and Bukit Tigapuluh National Parks, but the protected forests are as vulnerable to illegal logging and poaching as other Sumatran parks.
According to the NGO groups that work with the Orang Rimba, it isn’t a question of if the tribes will lose their jungle traditions but when. In the spirit of practical idealism, the organisation WARSI (www.warsi.or.id) established its alternative educational outreach. Rather than forcing educational institutions on the Orang Rimba, teachers join those that will accept an outsider and teach the children how to read, write and count – the equivalent of knowing how to hunt and forage in the settled communities.
Some of the issues that continue to face Orang Rimba communities living in a concession area are decrepit government housing, a lack of cultivable land in place of the jungle that’s gone, and the inability to eat certain animals because members of Orang Rimba have been encouraged to embrace Islam.
TTours
oPadmasana FoundationTOURS
(%0813 6619 7841, 0852 6600 8969, 0852 6609 1459; http://padmasanafoundation.blogspot.com; tours per person from 1,250,000Rp)
The Padmasana Foundation is a nonprofit organisation dedicated to the preservation and excavation of the Muara Jambi ruins, and its members work together with the local community in the village next to the ruins. Staff can provide information and arrange both tours of the site and homestays in the village.
GunturTOURS
(%0813 6833 0882; tours per person from 1,250,000Rp)
For tours of Muara Jambi, highly knowledgable, enthusiastic and English-speaking Guntur is the best tour guide you can find in Jambi. Rates drop substantially if you’re travelling in a group. He has an in-depth knowledge of the Kerinci Valley also.
4Sleeping
Hotel FortunaHOTEL$
(%0741-23161; Jl Gatot Subroto 84; r 185,000Rp; aW)
A reasonable budget choice, Fortuna has simple and sparsely furnished rooms, but its main advantage is the central location, concealed in a quiet retail plaza across from the Abadi Hotel. There are Chinese noodle shops nearby for a quick breakfast. Staff won’t win any congeniality prizes, though. Wi-fi is in the lobby only, and it’s BYO toilet paper.
Hotel DutaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%0741-755918; hotelduta@yahoo.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi 65-68; r incl breakfast from 380,000Rp; aW)
The Duta features compact rooms with modern decor and snazzy bathrooms. Flat-screen TVs – with plenty of English-language content – and a wildly ostentatious reception area are other cosmopolitan surprises in sleepy Jambi. The hotel could do with a refurb, however. It’s a short stroll to alfresco street-food treats down on the riverbank.
5Eating & Drinking
Kopi Tiam Oey JambiINDONESIAN$
(Jl Sultan Agung; mains 18,000-60,000Rp; h7am-10pm; aW)
Opposite Jambi’s magnificent mosque is this reliable cafe that ticks all the boxes for excellent single-origin coffee, air-conditioning and wi-fi. It also does an interesting selection of Indonesian dishes from across the archipelago that you don’t often see on a menu. Its decor features a weird mishmash of Chinese and British bric-a-brac.
Taman Tanggo RajoINDONESIAN$
(Jl Raden Pamuk; snacks from 10,000Rp; h5-11pm)
This is Jambi’s essential evening destination for promenading along the attractive, curved pedestrian bridge across the river that lights up at night. Stalls sell local favourites, such as nanas goreng (fried pineapples), jagung bakar (roasted corn slathered with coconut milk and chilli) and different kinds of sate.
Pondok KelapaSEAFOOD$$
(%0819 2551 499; Jl Hayam Waruk; mains 60,000-200,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
Fish and seafood are the stars of the show at this appealing restaurant in a tranquil garden gazebo setting. It’s a great place to try giant grilled prawns, cumi asang manis (squid in a sweet and sour sauce), or local specialties such as pinang patin (spicy fish hotpot with pineapple). Menus have pictures but no prices; check before ordering.
Sky LoungeBAR
(12th fl, Aston Jambi Hotel, Jl Sultan Agung 99; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)
Jambi’s finest spot for a drink is this rooftop bar atop the Aston Jambi Hotel (%0741-33777; www.astonhotelsinternational.com). Enjoy fantastic city views while sipping on cocktails, beer or wine, or come for a meal served on the outdoor terrace or indoor lounge. It attracts an affluent crowd and has regular bands and DJs.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Bus-ticketing offices occupy two areas of Jambi: Simpang Rimbo, 8km west of town, and Simpang Kawat, 3.5km southwest of town on Jl M Yamin.
There are frequent economy buses to Palembang. Several minibus companies, including Ratu Intan Permata (%0741-20784; Simpang Kawat, Jl M Yamin 26), offer comfortable door-to-door minibus services to Pekanbaru, Bengkulu, Palembang and Padang. Safa Marwa (%0741-65756; Jl Pattimura 7) runs a similar service to Sungai Penuh in the Kerinci Valley. Buses depart from the companies’ offices and can also pick up passengers around town.
TRANSPORT FROM JAMBI
Air
| DESTINATION |
AIRLINE |
FREQUENCY |
| Bandar Lampung |
Wings Air |
daily |
| Jakarta |
Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air |
14 daily |
| Medan |
Wings Air |
daily |
| Padang |
Wings Air |
daily |
| Palembang |
Garuda, Wings Air |
2 daily |
| Pekanbaru |
Wings Air |
daily |
| Pulau Batam |
Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air |
1-2 daily |
| Sungai Penuh (Kerinci) |
Wings Air |
daily |
Bus
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bengkulu |
180,000 |
10 |
several daily |
| Padang |
120,000-190,000 |
11 |
2 daily |
| Palembang |
120,000 |
7 |
several daily |
| Pekanbaru |
150,000-190,000 |
12 |
daily |
| Sungai Penuh |
150,000 |
8 |
10 daily |
8Getting Around
Grab and Go-Jek taxis both operate in Jambi and are the best means of getting around, both in terms of cost and efficiency. Expect to pay around 30,000Rp to the airport (compared to 50,000Rp in a standard taxi).
Otherwise, ojeks and taxis hang around next to shopping malls. An ojek to the bus offices in Simpang Rimbo is around 25,000Rp. For Simpang Kawat, count on 15,000Rp.
There is no public transport to Muara Jambi. You can charter a speedboat (400,000Rp) from Jambi’s river pier to the site. A Grab taxi will cost around 120,000Rp one way, or you can hire an ojek (50,000Rp).
South Sumatra
The eastern portion of South Sumatra shares a common Malay ancestry and influence with Riau and Jambi provinces due to its proximity to the shipping lane of the Strait of Melaka. Rivers define the character of the eastern lowlands, while the western high peaks of the Bukit Barisan form the province’s rugged underbelly. The provincial capital of Palembang was formerly the central seat of the Buddhist Sriwijaya empire, whose control once reached all the way up the Malay Peninsula.
Despite the province’s illustrious past, it’s rather light on attractions, except for the hospitality that occurs in places where bilingual Indonesians don’t get a lot of opportunity to practise their English, as well as the stunning scenery of the Pasemah Highlands.
Palembang
%0711 / Pop 1.7 million
Sumatra’s second-largest city is a major port that sits astride the Sungai Musi, the two halves of the city linked by the giant Jembatan Ampera (Ampera Bridge). While these days it’s just another regular large Indonesian city, blighted by traffic jams and pollution, it does have a fascinating history as one of Southeast Asia’s oldest cities. A thousand years ago Palembang was the capital of the highly developed Sriwijaya civilisation that ruled a huge slab of Southeast Asia, covering most of Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula, southern Thailand and Cambodia. Few relics from the period now remain outside the city museum.
While it’s far from being an essential stop, if you’re passing overland through the Pasemah Highlands or Jambi, Palembang is enough off the tourist radar to give it some appeal. Food is another reason to visit, with the city’s spicy fare the subject of much debate (positive and negative) in Sumatra.
1Sights
Balaputra Dewa MuseumMUSEUM
(Museum Negeri Balaputra Dewa; %0711-412636; Jl Sriwijaya 1, Km5.5; 2000Rp; h8.30am-3.30pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)
This excellent museum showcases finds from Sriwijayan times, as well as megalithic carvings from the Pasemah Highlands, including the famous batu gajah (elephant stone). Other worthwhile displays include a rich collection of finely woven songkets, and coverage from more recent periods of rule including the Palembang sultanate, Dutch colonisation and Japanese WWII occupation. Behind the museum is a magnificent original rumah limas (traditional house) dating from 1830, which is featured on the 10,000Rp banknote.
Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl Sultan Mahmud Badarudin 19; 5000Rp; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun)
Along the banks of the Sungai Musi is this museum inside an attractive 19th-century building that incorporates a mix of European and local architectural styles. It was built in 1825 on the site of the palace of Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin, which was destroyed by the Dutch (who in doing so put an end to the Palembang Sultanate). The museum covers the city’s packed history, from the Sriwijayan dynasty through to the sultanate period, and traditional South Sumatran artefacts.
zFestivals & Events
Bidar RaceSPORTS
(h16 Jun & 17 Aug)
Bidar (canoe) races are held on the Sungai Musi in the middle of town every 16 June (Palembang’s birthday) and 17 August (Independence Day). A bidar is about 25m long and 1m wide and is powered by up to 60 rowers.
4Sleeping
MaxOne Hotels@ Vivo PalembagDESIGN HOTEL$$
(%0711-817788; www.maxonepalembang.com; Jl R Soekamto RT 17; r from 289,000Rp; aW)
Decorated in pop-art motifs and equipped with all your modern needs, this contemporary design hotel is a steal. Its attractive rooms are spacious and have comfy, large beds laden with pillows, along with cable TV. The lobby cafe is a bit soulless, but there’s a massive shopping mall next door for food and more.
5Eating & Drinking
Pempek Mei Hwa CindeINDONESIAN$
(http://pempek-mei-hua.business.site; Jl Letnan Jaimas 722; mains 20,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm)
Sneakily hidden away down a narrow side street, next to the lively produce market, is this pastel-pink warung that’s always busy with locals stocking up on takeway pempek (fishcake made using tapioca). It’s a good place to sample this Palembang specialty, with a range of pempek dishes including pempek Lenggang, which is filled with fried egg.
Rumah Makan Pindang Musi RawasINDONESIAN$
(Jl Angkatan 45 18; mains from 40,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
A short ride northwest of the centre, this nondescript-looking restaurant is locally famous for its pindang patin, a spicy, sour, clear soup with patin fish. Other dishes are also sound ambassadors of southern Sumatran cuisine. A numbered system is used for queuing when the place gets busy.
Black BullsPUB
(www.black-bulls.business.site; Jl Abusamah 22; h4pm-2am)
One of Palembang’s few options for a drink is this fairly uninspired Hard Rock Cafe–style bar in the north of town. It has a stage for live music and long tables for beers (small/large 30,000/67,000Rp), pricey cocktails (115,000Rp) and pub food.
EATING THE PALEMBANG WAY
Palembang fare is distinguished by its use of the infamously smelly durian that sends some folks running. The best-known dishes are ikan brengkes (fish served with a spicy durian-based sauce) and pindang (a spicy, clear fish soup). Another Palembang specialty is pempek, a mixture of sago, fish, tapioca and seasoning that is formed into balls and deep-fried or grilled. Served with a spicy sauce, pempek is widely available from street stalls and warungs.
Palembang food is normally served with a range of accompaniments. The main one is sambal tempoyak, a combination of fermented durian, sambal terasi (shrimp paste), lime juice and chilli that is mixed up and added to the rice. Sambal buah (fruit-based sambal), made with pineapple or sliced green mangoes, is also popular.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sultan Badaruddin II Airport is 12km north of town. There are frequent daily flights to major towns in Sumatra and Java, as well as to Singapore and Malaysia.
BUS
The Karyajaya Bus Terminal is 12km from the town centre, but most companies have ticket offices on Jl Kol Atmo. Here you’ll also find door-to-door minibus agents’ offices.
TRAIN
Stasuin Kertapati train station is 8km from the city centre on the southern side of the river.
TRANSPORT FROM PALEMBANG
Bus
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bandar Lampung |
200,000-230,000 |
10 |
2 daily |
| Bengkulu |
220,000 |
8 |
several daily |
| Jakarta |
250,000 |
15 |
1 daily |
| Jambi |
70,000-150,000 |
6 |
several daily |
| Lahat |
100,000 |
4-5 |
hourly |
Train
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bandar Lampung |
32,000-200,000 |
9-10 |
8.30pm & 9pm daily |
| Lahat |
32,000-200,000 |
4 |
9.30am & 8pm daily |
| Lubuklinggau |
32,000-200,000 |
7 |
9.30am & 8pm daily |
8Getting Around
Grab and Go-Jek online taxis both operate in the city, and are the best option to get around if you have a smartphone.
Otherwise angkot trips around town cost a standard 3500Rp. They leave from around the huge roundabout at the junction of Jl Sudirman and Jl Merdeka. Any angkot marked ‘Karyajaya’ (5500Rp) will get you to the bus terminal. Any angkot marked ‘Kertapati’ (5500Rp) will get you to the train station. A taxi from the station to the town centre should cost around 80,000Rp.
Taxis to the airport cost around 120,000Rp.
WORTH A TRIP
PASEMAH HIGHLANDS
The Pasemah Highlands, tucked away in the Bukit Barisan west of Lahat, are famous for the mysterious megalithic monuments that dot the landscape. The stones have been dated back about 3000 years, but little else is known about them or the civilisation that carved them. While the museums of Palembang and Jakarta now house the pick of the stones, there are still plenty left in situ. Many are tricky to find, and you’ll need your own transport (a guide isn’t a bad idea either), but a large part of the appeal is being out in the beautiful countryside with Gunung Dempo looming in the background.
The main town of the highlands is Pagaralam, a fairly gritty city located 68km (two hours by bus) southwest of the Trans-Sumatran Hwy town of Lahat. Here you’ll find ATMs, lodgings, restaurants, tour guides and general supplies.
If you’re looking for a guide, get in touch with Yayan Andriawan (%0822 7921 5310; yayanbaru131@yahoo.com), a Pagaralam-based guide specialising in trips to Dempo (one day/one night 500,000Rp) and surrounding megalithic sites (one day 300,000Rp). Motorbike hire is additional (around 60,000Rp if you bargain hard).
Batu Gajah (Elephant Stone) Just 3km south of Pagaralam, by the village of Berlumai, are these stone carvings scattered among an idyllic countryside of rice paddies and coffee plantations, with Gunung Dempo rising in the background. There’s a remarkable collection of stone carvings among the paddies near Tanjung Aru. Look out for the one of a man fighting a giant serpent.
Batu Beribu In Tegurwangi, about 8km from Pagaralam on the road to Tanjung Sakti, Batu Beribu is the home of a cluster of four squat statues that sit under a small shelter by a stream. The site guardian will wander over and lead you to some nearby dolmen-style stone tombs. You can still make out a painting of three women and a dragon in one of them.
Tinggi Hari Tinggi Hari, 20km from Lahat, west of the small river town of Pulau Pinang, is a site featuring the best examples of early prehistoric stone sculpture in Indonesia. The Pasemah carvings fall into two distinct styles. The early style dates from around 3000 years ago and features fairly crude figures squatting with hands on knees or arms folded over chests. The later style, incorporating expressive facial features, dates from about 2000 years ago and is far more elaborate.
Gunung Dempo Gunung Dempo is a semi-active volcano and the highest (3159m) of the peaks surrounding the Pasemah Highlands that dominate Pagaralam. Allow two full days to complete a climb of the the volcano. A guide, such as Yayan Andriawan, is strongly recommended as trails can be difficult to find. The lower slopes are used as a tea-growing area, and there are angkot from Pagaralam to a tea factory.
Hotel Mirasa (%0852 678 4684, 0730-621266; Jl Muhammad Nuh 80; r incl breakfast 130,000-200,000Rp; W) Along the main Pagaralam thoroughfare is this run-down roadside motel with a range of rather musty rooms to choose from. You’ll need to bring your own toilet paper and towel. The English-speaking manager can organise transport or guides to climb Gunung Dempo. The hotel is on the edge of town, about 2km from the bus terminal, and has a good view of the volcano.
Getting There & Away
Pagaralam’s airport is 25km east of town, with direct flights from Palembang with Wings Air. A taxi from the airport is around 50,000Rp.
Every bus travelling along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy calls in at Lahat, nine hours northwest of Bandar Lampung and 12 hours southeast of Padang. There are regular buses to Lahat from Palembang (70,000Rp to 150,000Rp, four to five hours), and the town is a stop on the train line from Palembang to Lubuklinggau.
There are frequent small buses between Lahat and Pagaralam (30,000Rp, two hours). There are opelet (minibuses) to the villages near Pagaralam from the town centre’s stasiun taksi (taxi station); all local services cost 3000Rp.
Lampung
At the very tip of this bow-shaped landmass is Sumatra’s southernmost province, which was not given provincial status by Jakarta until 1964. Although the Lampungese have had a long history as a distinct culture, Jakarta’s gravitational force has been altering Lampung’s independent streak – largely in the form of the transmigrasi policies, designed to off-load excess population and turn a profit in the wilds of Sumatra.
Outside the provincial capital of Bandar Lampung, the province’s robust coffee plantations dominate the economy and the unclaimed forests, closely followed by timber, pepper, rubber and the ever-increasing territory of oil-palm plantations.
Today many Jakarta weekenders hop over to tour the Krakatau volcano or visit the elephants of Way Kambas National Park. The rugged western seaboard is ostensibly protected as the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park. On this west coast are some of Sumatra’s best waves, luring surfers from around the world.
History
Long before Jakarta became the helm of this island chain, there’s evidence that Lampung was part of the Palembang-based Sriwijayan empire until the 11th century, when the Jambi-based Malayu kingdom became the dominant regional power.
Megalithic remains at Pugungraharjo, on the plains to the east of Bandar Lampung, are thought to date back more than 1000 years and point to a combination of Hindu and Buddhist influences. The site is believed to have been occupied until the 16th century.
Lampung has long been famous for its prized pepper crop, which attracted the West Javanese sultanate of Banten to the area at the beginning of the 16th century and the Dutch East India Company in the late 17th century.
The Dutch finally took control of Lampung in 1856 and launched the first of the transmigrasi schemes that sought to ease the chronic overcrowding in Java and Bali.
Tanjung Setia & Krui
%0728
Offering some of Sumatra’s best and most accessible waves, the shores north and south of Krui’s meandering coastline are dotted with surf breaks that are gaining more international recognition by the year. The surf season generally runs from April to October.
Most of the action is focused on the village of Tanjung Setia, 25km south of Krui. While surfers still make up 99% of the tourist traffic, the area’s laconic and laid-back buzz is also perfect if you’re overlanding to Java down Sumatra’s south coast. Non-surfers can try the sandy beaches along the coastline just south of Krui, which also has some beginner beach breaks.
Around midway between Bengkulu and Bandar Lampung, Tanjung Setia is a good spot to relax and recharge after one too many long Sumatran bus journeys. It can also be used as a base to explore Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.
2Activities
Hello MisterADVENTURE SPORTS
(%0813 7365 8927, 0852 6928 7811; kruimotorent@gmail.com)
Get in touch with the wisecracking Albert at Hello Mister in Tanjung Setia for everything from bus transport to Krui or Bandar Lampung and motorbike rental (60,000Rp per day) to jungle tours and surf lessons (200,000Rp per day) on more forgiving beach breaks towards Krui village. He can also arrange longer day trips south to the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.
4Sleeping & Eating
Rumah Radja LosmenBUNGALOW$
(%0813 6757 3778; earthcraft40@gmail.com; Tanjung Setia; r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; aW)
This tranquil place, past Damai Bungalows, is run by friendly Aussie surfer Murray. Lodgings consist of a couple of comfy bungalows that catch the breeze. Breakfast is the only meal available but there’s the bonus of a guest kitchen for those who want to surf rather than be tied to a feeding schedule.
Amy’s PlaceRESORT$$
(www.amys-sumatra.com; Jl Pantai Wisata, Krui; per person incl meals US$65; Ws)
Set up by expat American surfer gal and host Amy, this purpose-built surf resort on a garden property overlooks the waves. She goes to great lengths to keep rooms immaculate and comfortable, plus there’s a pool, beachside deck for beers and a bohemian dining space for communal meals. It’s located 3km south of Krui, with a heap of surf spots within close range.
Lani’s RestoINTERNATIONAL$$
(Jl Pantai Wisata, Tanjung Setia; mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat Mar-Oct)
8Information
Wi-fi is prevalent in the guesthouses in Tanjung Setia.
There are ATMs in Krui, but not in Tanjung Setia.
8Getting There & Away
Buses between Bengkulu (250,000Rp, 10 hours, several daily) and Bandar Lampung (65,000Rp to 200,000Rp, seven to eight hours, several daily) will stop on request at Tanjung Setia. A private transfer to/from Bandar Lampung’s airport is around 900,000Rp.
Bandar Lampung
%0721 / Pop 1,250,000
Perched on the hills overlooking Teluk Lampung, Bandar Lampung is Lampung’s largest city and its administrative capital. Though it’s a pretty scrappy and congested town, its surrounds are picturesque and it has some interesting sights, friendly locals, and contemporary cafes and pubs to while away a few hours. It’s also a good launching point for trips to Way Kambas National Park or Krakatau; however, most travellers visit en route to/from Java.
1Sights
Lampung Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl Pagar Alam 64; adult/child 4000/500Rp; h8am-2pm Sat-Thu, to 10.30am Fri)
Housed in an imposing building that incorporates a traditional design, the Lampung Provincial Museum is a bit of a mixed bag. It covers everything from neolithic relics to stuffed animals, with standout pieces from the Sriwijayan-empire era. It’s 5km north of central Bandar Lampung; take a grey angkot (4000Rp) or Go-Jek (around 3000Rp).
Vihara Thay Hin BioBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Jl Ikan Kakap 35; h6am-5pm)
Standing as a prominent landmark with its ornate, red-tiled Chinese gate is this attractive Buddhist temple that dates to the late 19th century. Inside it’s equally atmospheric, with burning incense, candles and lanterns scattered among the ornamental pillars, Buddhist statues and intricate wood panels.
Krakatau MonumentMONUMENT
(Jl Veteran)
The Krakatau monument is a lasting memorial to the force of the 1883 eruption and resulting tidal wave. Almost half of the 36,000 victims died in the 40m-high wave that funnelled up Teluk Lampung and devastated Telukbetung. The 19th-century huge steel maritime buoy that now comprises the monument was washed out of Teluk Lampung and deposited on this hillside.
TTours
Arie Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
(%0721-474675; www.arietour.com; Jl W Monginsidi 143; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun)
A helpful travel agency located outside the city centre. Trips to Gunung Krakatau, Way Kambas and Bukit Barisan Selatan National Parks can be booked here, though it’s fairly pricey.
4Sleeping
oFlip Flop HostelHOSTEL$
(%0813 6924 0888; Jl Pulau Sebuku 9; dm 98,000Rp, r 189,000-200,000Rp; aW)
One of south Sumatra’s best hostels, Flip Flop is an immaculate multilevel space that’s lovingly decorated with vibrant furnishings, murals and pot plants. Private rooms have homely touches, while air-conditioned dorms are spotless and have their own bathrooms. The staff are lovely, and the lobby cafe does specialty coffees and Indonesian dishes. Upstairs there’s terrace seating and a rooftop hang-out.
Emersia Hotel & ResortRESORT$$$
(%0721-258258; www.emersiahotel.com; Jl W Monginsidi 70; r/ste incl breakfast from 645,000/1,645,000Rp; aWs)
If you’re completing your Sumatran odyssey and wish to wash the dust of the island off your feet, one of Bandar Lampung’s most luxurious hotels may be just the place for it. Its elevated location means that the best rooms and suites feature sea views. There’s a spa for pampering, a swimming pool and a decent restaurant and cafe.
5Eating & Drinking
Pempek 123SEAFOOD$
(Jl Ikan Belanak 15; per piece 5000Rp; h8.30am-6pm)
Tucked down a residential side street on the ground floor of an apartment building, this local haunt is a favourite for pempek (deep-fried fish cake made using tapioca). There’s an array of choices, all accompanied with soy sauce and sambal, but for something with more varied flavour go for the tekwan (pempek mixed with noodles, soup and greens).
Its shelves are lined with dried fish snacks, condiments and local coffee beans for purchase. It’s a short walk from the Krakatau Monument.
Kopi OeyINTERNATIONAL$
(www.kopioey.com; Jl W Monginsidi 56; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-midnight; W)
With its birdcage lights, outdoor terrace and Shanghai glamour posters, this offshoot of the Jakarta-based empire conjures up an old-world vibe. The menu runs the gamut from fusion (spicy tuna spaghetti) to Javanese classics (sweet-and-spicy lamb tongseng) and cap cai (mixed vegetables) rice. It does good breakfasts, filtered coffees and a more eclectic range of beverages (egg coffee, iced grass jelly, hot turmeric).
NudiPUB
(%0721-482738; www.nudieatdrinkleisure.com; Jl Gatot Subroto 16; h9am-midnight; W)
In a town where a beer isn’t always easy to find, this spot is a bit of an oasis, opening up to a smart, leafy decor where you can prop up a stool at the bar and order a pint from its frosty taps. Otherwise grab a booth and a cocktail, or head to the rear dining area for pub food and Indonesian mains.
FlambojanCOFFEE
(Jl Flamboyan; h8am-10pm; W)
Comprising no more than a couple of chairs, a turntable and a cassette deck, this hipster coffee shop specialises in beans from across Sumatra. Get a takeaway or grab a seat out front to enjoy its pour-over filter brews, cold drip or a latte.
8Information
ATMs dot central Bandar Lampung.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Raden Inten II Airport (%0721-769 7114) is 24km north of the city. There are numerous daily flights to Jakarta and Yogyakarta, as well Sumatra’s major cities, but no direct flights to Medan.
BUS
Bandar Lampung’s Rajabasa Bus Terminal is 10km north of town and serves long-distance destinations.
Damri (%0751-780 6335, 0813 7929 0146) has bus-boat combination tickets that are the most convenient option for heading to Jakarta (160,000Rp to 235,000Rp, eight to 10 hours). Its buses leave from outside Bandar Lampung’s train station at 8am, 9am, 10am, 8pm, 9pm and 10pm, shuttling passengers to the Bakauheni pier and then picking them up at Java’s Merak pier for the final transfer to Jakarta’s train station.
BUSES FROM BANDAR LAMPUNG
| DESTINATION |
FARE (RP) |
DURATION (HR) |
FREQUENCY |
| Bengkulu |
150,000-350,000 |
18 |
several daily |
| Bukittinggi |
350,000-450,000 |
24-30 |
daily |
| Jakarta |
145,000-175,000 |
8-10 |
several daily |
| Kota Agung |
25,000-30,000 |
3 |
several daily |
| Krui |
65,000-200,000 |
7-8 |
several daily |
| Padang |
350,000-450,000 |
21 |
daily |
| Palembang |
150,000-250,000 |
12 |
2 daily |
| Way Kambas |
40,000 |
4-5 |
several daily |
TRAIN
Tanjung Karang is the main station in the town centre; it’s at the northern mouth of Jl Raden Intan. There are morning and overnight departures to Palembang (economy/business/executive 32,000/160,000/215,000Rp; nine to 10 hours) leaving at 8.30am and 9pm. It’s also possible to take a train to Lahat for the Pasemah Highlands, but this involves an inconvenient change at Prabumulih.
8Getting Around
From Bandar Lampung’s airport, taxis charge around 130,000Rp for the ride into town. Go-Jek and Grab online taxis are the cheapest and fastest way to get around town. Otherwise all angkot pass through Jl Raden Intan and the standard fare around town is 5000Rp.
Way Kambas National Park
Way Kambas National Park (foreigner entrance fee 150,000Rp, ranger fee 300,000Rp) is one of the oldest reserves in Indonesia. It occupies 1300 sq km of coastal lowland forest around Sungai Way Kambas on the east coast of Lampung. What little remains of the heavily logged forests is home to endangered species of elephants, rhinos and tigers.
It is believed that around 180 wild Sumatran elephants (Elephas maximus sumatrensis) live in the park, but reliable estimates are uncertain and poaching and development pressures are constant. Another rare but endemic creature in Way Kambas is the Sumatran rhino, the only two-horned rhino of the Asian species; its hide is red in colour with a hairy coat. However sightings of it are extremely rare, as is spotting the Sumatran tiger, the other celebrity animal in the park.
Tourist facilities within the park are limited. About 13km from its entrance, on the main road, is the township, where there are lodgings and simple food options.
2Activities
Satwa Elephant Ecolodge is the main tour operator to arrange trips into Way Kambas National Park. Their offerings include half-day safaris in open-air African-style jeeps (300,000Rp), night walks, boat trips on Sungai Way Kanan and surrounding waterways, and overnight camping trips.
Wildlife Watching
While short visits can be a wonderful way to experience the habitat of Way Kambas National Park, don’t expect to see more than primates, deer and birdlife. For those serious about wildlife-watching you will need to allow at least three days to explore the park properly and to gain a full appreciation for its biodiversity. Be aware that on weekends the park is popular with domestic tourists taking a break from the concrete confines of Jakarta.
Herds of Sumatran elephant (a subspecies of the Asian elephant and found only in Sumatra and Kalimantan) are seen in the national park from time to time, but sightings of the Sumatran rhino and tiger are extremely rare, and only possible if you spend time deep inside the park. The most commonly spotted animals on a tour include the siamang, agile gibbon, white-handed gibbon, civet, sambar and barking deer. The park is also home to the tapir, dhole, sun bear, clouded leopard, tarsier, slow loris, porcupine, flying squirrel and gharial.
The park contains the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary (www.rhinos.org), where seven rhinos formerly held in captivity have been introduced to wild surroundings in the hope of successful breeding, with each assigned a team of keepers to look after their health and nutritional needs. The Sumatran rhino is a solitary animal and its habitat in the wild is so fractured that conservationists fear the species will die out without intervention. Breeding centres for rhinos are a controversial component of species-protection campaigns as they are expensive to maintain and have reported few successful births. For more information, visit the website of the International Rhino Foundation (www.rhinos-irf.org), one of the lead organisations involved with the centre and wtih antipoaching patrols in the park. It’s estimated that fewer than 30 wild Sumatran rhinos still survive within Way Kambas.
The area around Way Kanan, a subdistrict of the park, is frequently visited by birdwatchers, and has more than 400-plus species, with the white-winged duck, Storm’s stork and hornbill being particularly sought after by twitchers.
While the Elephant Conversation Centre inside the park provides an important role in supporting orphaned and conflict elephants, it’s not advised to ride them or participate in any hands-on activities.
4Sleeping
By far the best place to stay is Satwa Elephant Ecolodge, just outside the park’s entrance. There are also local homestay options in Plangijo village.
Camping on overnight safaris inside the park can be arranged through Satwa Elephant Ecolodge.
Satwa Elephant EcolodgeCOTTAGE$$
(%0725-764 5290, 0812 399 5212; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; Jl Taman Nasional Way Kambas, Plangijo; s/d incl breakfast US$55/60; W) 
S
This delightful, accredited ecolodge is located in Plangijo village 500m from Way Kambas National Park’s entrance. Its spacious cottages are scattered through the lodge’s leafy orchard of tropical fruit trees, and activities include jeep safaris, nature walks and river trips through the forest. The lodge is also popular with birdwatchers.
It caters to short-term visitors as well as offering a range of packages aimed at those more serious about wildlife spotting, which involves more time. Cash only.
8Getting There & Away
The entrance to Way Kambas is 110km from Bandar Lampung. Take the bus from Bandar Lampung’s Rajabasa Bus Terminal to Jepara and get off at Pasar Tridatu (50,000Rp, two hours), from where you’ll need to take an ojek (20,000Rp) the rest of the way.
A day trip to Way Kambas costs around US$155 per person (minimum two people) and can be arranged through Arie Tour & Travel in Bandar Lampung or with tour operators in Jakarta.
Gunung Krakatau
The stuff of legends, Krakatau remains one of the world’s most well-known volcanoes due to its infamous 19th-century eruption. When it blew its top in 1883 it may have come closer to destroying the planet than any other volcano in recent history. Tens of thousands were killed, either by the resulting tidal wave or by the pyroclastic flows that crossed 40km of ocean to incinerate Sumatran coastal villages. Its explosion was so violent it’s still regarded as the loudest noise ever recorded; it was heard as far away as Perth, Australia. Afterwards all that was left was a smouldering caldera where a cluster of uninhabited islands had once been. Perhaps peace had come, thought local villagers. But Krakatau, like all scrappy villains, re-awoke in 1927 and resulting eruptions created a new volcanic cone, since christened Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau). More recently on 22 December 2018 disaster struck again, with its eruption causing some 430 deaths from an ensuing tsunami devastating the coastal villages facing the Sunda Strait in both Sumatra and Java. As of early 2019, daily eruptions continued and it was was off limits to tourists.
It’s estimated that Anak Krakatau is growing by around 5m every year.
1Sights
Krakatau (often mispelt as Krakatoa) these days comprises a chain of four islands, of which the main attraction is Anak Krakatau – an active (and often very volatile) volcano. Boats disembark here, allowing you to scramble up its outer cone, but be aware that when the volcano is rumbling, ascents to the crater are forbidden. Try to check independently whether Krakatau is off limits by asking locals, checking news reports or visiting www.volcanodiscovery.com for up-to-date seismic activity. You’ll also get to visit several of the nearby volcanic islands, including Rakata (Greater Krakatau), a fragment from the 1883 explosion, but now dormant. There’s also some good snorkelling.
Most tourists visit Krakatau as a day trip, taking around three to four hours one way from Canti. Inclement weather can bring cancellations, and since seas can often be rough, it’s best to arrange a lifejacket (which is often in the form of an inflatable tyre!).
4Sleeping & Eating
Overnight trips to Krakatau involve camping on the island, but if you’re day tripping there are sleeping options in the harbour town of Canti or nearby Kalianda. If you’re OK with an early rise then Bandar Lampung is also possible. There are also basic losmen on nearby Pulau Sebesi, which is accessible by public boat.
For the volcano trip you’ll need to bring your own food and water. At the harbour there are rows of simple shack restaurants doing basic mie goreng and nasi goreng options. Nearby Munca Indah also serves meals.
Hotel BeringinGUESTHOUSE$
(%0857 6980 0079, 0727-322008; Jl Kusuma Bangsa 76, Kalianda; r 150,000-230,000Rp; aW)
Located in the laid-back, attractive town of Kalianda, Beringin offers a handy base for those heading to Krakatau. It’s in an appealing Dutch colonial villa, with a rather refined dining area, and air-conditioned rooms that are tidy, spacious and feature vibrant wallpaper, TVs and local-style toilets. Wi-fi is only in the common area. From here it’s a 30-minute drive to the harbour in Canti.
Very limited English is spoken here.
Munca IndahVILLA$$
(%0853 7927 0711; Jl Pesisir Raya, Canti; r 300,000-350,000Rp)
This fairly scrappy property is one of the few options for staying in Canti, with overpriced villa-style rooms that cater more to the needs of local tourists. There’s a restaurant (mains from 11,000Rp), and a viewing deck looking out to Krakatau’s islands in the distance. They can arrange camping trips on an island near the volcano for 2,500,000Rp.
8Information
The closest ATM to Canti is in Kalianda, 7km away.
8Getting There & Away
Trips to Krakatau launch from West Java or from Canti on the Sumatran coast. Organised day trips with Arie Tour & Travel in Bandar Lampung cost around US$400 per person (based on two people).
For solo travellers, the best way to visit Krakatau is to join one of the existing tours that set out from the fishing village of Canti, located outside of Kalianda; weekends are your best bet. Otherwise you’ll have to charter your own boat (around 1,500,000Rp return), or you can take a public boat to Pulau Sebesi (20,000Rp, 2½ hours), from where boat charters will be even cheaper for the remaining two-hour trip. Canti was badly damaged by the tsunami in late 2018, including its main pier, however repair efforts were expected to be completed in early 2019.
Kalianda is reachable with the frequent local buses from Bandar Lampung’s Rajabasa Bus Terminal (27,000Rp, 2½ hours). Then you’ll have to take an ojek to Canti (15,000Rp, 35 minutes) or an infrequent angkot.
Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park
At the southern tip of Sumatra, Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park comprises one of the island’s last stands of lowland forests. For this reason the World Wildlife Fund has ranked it as one of the planet’s most biologically outstanding habitats and is working to conserve the park’s remaining Sumatran rhinos and tigers; it is also identified as the most important forest area for tiger conservation in the world. The park is also famous for many endemic bird species that prefer foothill climates, and several species of sea turtle that nest along the park’s coastal zone.
Of the 3560 sq km originally designated as protected, less than 3240 sq km remain untouched. The usual suspects are responsible: illegal logging, illegal encroachment of coffee, pepper and other plantations, and poachers.
Tourist infrastructure in the park is very limited, bordering on nonexistent. An organised tour is your best bet; these can be arranged in Kota Agung or Krui.
Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan (%0813 1011 1423, 0812 6036 3409; Jl Juanda 19; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) sells permits for the park (weekdays/weekends 155,000/257,000Rp including insurance) and can arrange guides (150,000Rp per day) and provide trekking information; ask for Latief, who speaks excellent English. Note that permits here are only available Monday to Friday; on weekends you’ll have to head to the Sedaya park office, which is open 8am to noon.
There are several basic guesthouses in Kota Agung and along the coast. Staying in Krui is also a possibility, from where you can visit the park on a day trip. There’s a basic guesthouse (150,000Rp to 200,000Rp) in the actual park too, which you can book through the Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan office in Kota Agung.
8Getting There & Away
The main access point into Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park is through the town of Kota Agung, 80km west of Bandar Lampung.
There are frequent buses from Bandar Lampung to Kota Agung (25,000Rp to 30,000Rp, three hours).
From Bandar Lampung, Arie Tour & Travel can arrange tours for US$155 per person (for a group of two people). In Krui, Hello Mister offers a more affordable option by motorbike (around 400,000Rp). From Kota Agung expect to pay around 750,000Rp to rent a car and driver to explore the national park; this can be arranged through the park office, Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan.
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