In France, there’s a leek in every shopper’s market basket—not a bad habit to get into. What a wonder simply cooked leeks are, simmered in salted water, butter-stewed, or slowly charred over coals. They are a sweet, tender, elemental pleasure. Leeks are the mildest allium. Unlike scallions, they are almost always eaten cooked, and they are quite versatile—adding depth to vegetable soups and stews or served on their own, grilled or simmered.
But leeks require careful, mindful cooking. Undercooked and still crunchy, they are unpleasant—but they mustn’t be cooked to smithereens either. Note that small leeks are more tender and require less cooking time.
When prepping leeks for cooking, you’ll need to peel off and discard at least one tough outer layer, but don’t cut off the green top entirely; the tender pale green center is too good to waste. Large leeks should be halved lengthwise before chopping.
To wash chopped leeks, swish them in a large bowl of warm water, then let them float to the surface so any sand and dirt can sink to the bottom. Lift the leeks out of the water, leaving the sand and dirt behind. If they are still gritty, soak them again.
For a delicious, simple way to cook chopped leeks, stew them gently in a saucepan with a good knob of butter and a small amount of water, until tender but still bright green, seasoned with salt, pepper, and perhaps a little thyme. Spoon these stewed leeks over poached fish or chicken, add to an omelette, or stir into mashed potatoes.
Velvety Green Leek Soup
A creamy soup doesn’t always mean lots of cream—or any, as in this case. The pureed leeks in the soup provide body as well as flavor, and a handful of rice gives it a smooth consistency. For a striking green taste and color, let the soup cool completely before blending in the spinach. And take the time to strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve for the silkiest texture.
6 medium leeks (about 3 pounds)
4 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
4 garlic cloves, grated or minced
Pinch of cayenne
½ cup white rice
8 cups Blond Chicken Broth, heated, or hot water, or as needed
10 ounces baby spinach, washed
Grated nutmeg
½ cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives
2 tablespoons thinly sliced tarragon
Trim the leeks of the tough outer layers and the root ends. Halve lengthwise and chop the white and tender green parts (discard the tough gray-green parts) into ½-inch pieces. Swish the chopped leeks in a large bowl of warm water, then let them float to the surface so sand and dirt can sink to the bottom of the bowl. Lift the leeks from the water, leaving any sediment behind. To make sure no grit remains, soak them again in fresh water, then lift out and drain.
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the leeks, season well with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until wilted, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the garlic, cayenne, and rice and cook for 1 minute. Add the hot broth and bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until the rice is very soft, about 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.
Using a blender, puree the spinach with the cooled soup mixture, working in batches if necessary. Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve into a saucepan; discard any fibrous solids. Adjust the seasoning and add a little nutmeg. Thin the soup with broth or water if necessary.
To preserve the bright green color, don’t reheat the soup until just before serving. Then garnish each serving with a tablespoon of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of chives and tarragon. Makes 8 servings
Medium or large leeks are halved lengthwise before chopping.
Leeks Vinaigrette with Chopped Egg
In traditional French bistros, cooked whole leeks are dressed with a tart vinaigrette and served as a classic first course, sometimes called “poor man’s asparagus” (leeks are cheaper there than in North America). Leeks vinaigrette can be wonderful or dull, depending on several variables: the size of the leeks, the quality of the olive oil, the care taken to cook them perfectly. Don’t use giant ones; choose medium to small leeks for tender results. Another caveat: Cooked leeks should have no crunch. Err on the well-cooked side.
Salt and pepper
8 medium leeks (about 4 pounds)
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 small garlic clove, minced
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 hard-cooked eggs (see How to Boil an Egg), roughly chopped
Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer. Meanwhile, trim the roots from the leeks and peel away any tough outer layers. Trim the tops but leave the tender green parts. With a paring knife, make a lengthwise slit halfway down each leek. Soak the leeks in a large bowl of lukewarm water, swishing to dislodge sand. Let stand briefly, then lift from the water and drain. Repeat once more with fresh water, then lift out and drain.
Add the leeks to the pot and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes. The thickest part should be tender when probed with a paring knife. Transfer the leeks to a bowl of cold water. Drain and blot dry on a kitchen towel, and leave at room temperature.
To make the vinaigrette, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and garlic in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then whisk in the olive oil.
Arrange the leeks on a serving platter or individual plates. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then spoon the vinaigrette evenly over the leeks. Top with the chopped egg. Makes 4 servings
