Directory A–Z

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Accommodations

Cuban accommodations run the gamut from CUC$10 beach cabins to five-star resorts. Solo travelers are penalized price-wise, paying 75% of the price of a double room.

Budget

In this price range, the accommodation consists almost entirely of casas particulares (private home-stays) and campismos (rural cabins).

Although casa prices have crept up a little in the last few years, there are still only a handful of deluxe places (mainly in Havana) that will cost more than CUC$50. In cheaper casas particulares (CUC$20 to CUC$25) in the provinces you may have to share a bathroom and will have a fan instead of air-con.

There are around a dozen campismos countrywide that welcome international travelers and most are under CUC$50 a night. Accommodation is in old-fashioned cabins akin to a one- or two-star hotel.

Midrange

Cuba's scant midrange category is a lottery, with some boutique colonial hotels (run by Cubanacán) and some awful places with spooky Soviet-like architecture and atmosphere to match (run by Islazul). In midrange hotels you can usually expect air-con, private hot-water bathrooms, clean linens, satellite TV, a swimming pool and a restaurant, although the food won't exactly be gourmet.

Some of the more deluxe casas particulares now fall into this price bracket and they are nearly always pretty plush.

Top End

Cuba's state-run hotels and resorts have hiked up their prices two- or three-fold in the last couple of years. As a result, hotels in this bracket are somewhat overpriced.

The most comfortable top-end hotels are usually partly foreign-owned and maintain international standards (although service can sometimes be a bit lax). Rooms have everything that a midrange hotel has, plus big, quality beds and linens, a minibar, international phone service, and perhaps a terrace or view. Wi-fi is a prerequisite in these places, although it may be temperamental and only work in the reception area.

Practically all of Cuba's all-inclusive resorts fall into this price category.

Cuba's hotel star rating also includes half-star categories (eg 4½ stars).

Price Differentials

Factors influencing rates are time of year, location, hotel chain and whether the accommodations are state-run or private (the latter is nearly always cheaper). Low season is generally mid-September to late November and April to June (except for Easter week). Christmas and New Year is what's called extreme high season, when rates are 25% more than high-season rates. Bargaining is sometimes possible in casas particulares – though as far as foreigners go, it's not really the done thing. The casa owners in any given area pay generic taxes, and the prices you will be quoted reflect this. You'll find very few casas in Cuba less than CUC$20, unless you're up for a long stay. Prearranging Cuban accommodation has become easier with better wi-fi connections. It is now possible to make bookings on airbnb (www.airbnb.com) and pay with your credit card.

Types of Accommodations

Campismos

Campismos are where Cubans go on vacation (an estimated one million use them annually). Hardly camping, most of these installations are simple concrete cabins with bunk beds, foam mattresses and cold showers. There are over 80 of them sprinkled around the country in rural areas. Campismos are ranked either nacional or internacional. The former are (technically) only for Cubans, while the latter host both Cubans and foreigners and are more upscale, with air-con, hot water and/or linens. There are currently a dozen international campismos in Cuba ranging from the hotel-standard Aguas Claras in Pinar del Río to the more basic La Mula in Santiago de Cuba province.

Listings can be found on the website www.campismopopular.cu. Every provincial city in Cuba has a campismo office where you can book ahead. Cabin accommodations in international campismos cost CUC$20 to CUC$60 per bed.

Casas Particulares

Private rooms are the best option for independent travelers in Cuba and a great way of meeting the locals on their home turf. Furthermore, staying in these venerable, family-orientated establishments will give you a far more open and less censored view of the country, and your understanding and appreciation of Cuba will grow far richer as a result. Casa owners also often make excellent tour guides and can often arrange all-number of extra activities from taxis to nature walks.

You'll know houses renting rooms by the blue insignia on the door marked 'Arrendador Divisa.' There are thousands of casas particulares all over Cuba; well over 2000 in Havana alone and over 800 in Trinidad. From penthouses to historical homes, all manner of rooms are available from CUC$15 to CUC$60. Most houses are family homes who rent out a few rooms. Some of the more successful houses have become larger and more businesslike in recent years, operating more like small private hotels.

Government regulation has eased since 2011, and renters can now let out multiple rooms if they have space. Owners pay a monthly tax per room depending on location (plus extra for off-street parking) to post a sign advertising their rooms and to serve meals. These taxes must be paid whether the rooms are rented or not. Owners must keep a register of all guests and report each new arrival within 24 hours. For this reason, you will also be requested to produce your passport (not a photocopy) on arrival. Regular government inspections ensure that conditions inside casas remain clean, safe and secure. Most proprietors offer breakfast and dinner for an extra rate (usually CUC$5). Hot showers are a prerequisite. In general, rooms these days provide at least two beds (one is usually a double), fridge, air-con, fan and private bathroom. Bonuses could include a terrace or patio, private entrance, TV, security box, mini-bar, kitchenette and parking space.

Despite the abundance of casas particulares in Cuba, the recent spike in tourist numbers means they get very busy, especially in peak season (November to March). Whole towns can fill up fast. It is advisable to book ahead.

Bookings & Further Information

Due to the plethora of casas particulares in Cuba, it is impossible to include even a fraction of the total. The ones we have chosen are a combination of reader recommendations and local research. If one casa is full, they'll almost always be able to recommend to you someone else down the road.

The following websites list a large number of casas across the country and allow online booking. Cuban casas can now be booked internationally with a credit card on Airbnb (www.airbnb.com). Most casas will also accept reservations via text, phone or email.

ACubacasas (www.cubacasas.net) The best online source for casa particular information and booking; up to date, accurate and with colorful links to hundreds of private rooms across the island (in English and French).

ACasa Particular Organization (www.casaparticularcuba.org) Reader-recommended website for prebooking private rooms.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high season.

Havana

$ less than CUC$70

$$ CUC$70–150

$$$ more than CUC$150

Rest of Cuba

$ less than CUC$50

$$ CUC$50–120

$$$ more than CUC$120

Hotels

All tourist hotels and resorts are at least 51% owned by the Cuban government and are administered by one of four main organizations. Islazul is the cheapest and most popular with Cubans (who pay in Cuban pesos). Although the facilities can be variable at these establishments and the architecture a tad Sovietesque, Islazul hotels are invariably clean, cheap, friendly and attract a mainly Cuban clientele. They're also more likely to be situated in the island's smaller provincial towns. One downside are the blaring on-site discos that often keep guests awake until the small hours. Cubanacán is a step up and offers a nice mix of midrange and top-end options in cities and resort areas. The company has also rolled out a clutch of reasonably priced boutique-style hotels (the Encanto brand) in attractive city centers such as Sancti Spíritus, Remedios, Camagüey and Santiago. Gaviota manages higher-end resorts in the all-inclusive zone, though the chain also has a smattering of cheaper 'villas' in places such as Santiago and Cayo Coco. Gran Caribe does midrange to top-end hotels, including the emblematic Hotel Nacional in Havana. Except for Islazul properties, tourist hotels are for guests paying in convertible pesos only. Since May 2008, Cubans have been allowed to stay in any tourist hotel, although financially most of them are still out of reach.

At the top end of the hotel pyramid you'll often find foreign chains such as the Spanish-run Meliá and Iberostar brands running hotels in tandem with Cubanacán, Gaviota or Gran Caribe – mainly in the resort areas. The standards and service at these types of places are not unlike resorts in Mexico and the rest of the Caribbean.

Climate

Customs Regulations

Cuban customs regulations are complicated. For the full up-to-date scoop see www.aduana.co.cu.

Entering Cuba

Travelers are allowed to bring in personal belongings including photography equipment, binoculars, a musical instrument, radio, personal computer, tent, fishing rod, bicycle, canoe and other sporting gear, and up to 10kg of medicines. Canned, processed and dried food are no problem, nor are pets (as long as they have veterinary certification and proof of rabies vaccination).

Items that do not fit into the categories mentioned above are subject to a 100% customs duty to a maximum of CUC$1000.

Items prohibited from entry into Cuba include narcotics, explosives, pornography, electrical appliances broadly defined, light motor vehicles, car engines and products of animal origin.

Leaving Cuba

You are allowed to export 50 boxed cigars duty-free (or 23 singles) and up to US$5000 (or the equivalent) in cash.

Exporting undocumented art and items of cultural patrimony is restricted and involves fees. Normally, when you buy art you will be given an official 'seal' at the point of sale. Check this before you buy. If you don't get one, you'll need to obtain one from the Registro Nacional de Bienes Culturales ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle 17 No 1009, btwn Calles 10 & 12, Vedado; h9am-noon Mon-Fri) in Havana. Bring the objects here for inspection, fill in a form, pay a fee of between CUC$10 and CUC$30, which covers from one to five pieces of artwork and return 24 hours later to pick up the certificate.

Travelers should check local import laws in their home country regarding Cuban cigars. Some countries, including Australia, charge duty on imported Cuban cigars.

Discount Cards

Students who can provide proof of enrollment at a Cuban university or college for a minimum stay of six months are issued a carnet – the identification document that allows foreigners to pay for museums, transport (including colectivos – collective taxis) and theater performances in Cuban pesos (CUP), thus saving a bundle of money.

Electricity

The electrical current in Cuba is 110V with 220V in many tourist hotels and resorts.

Embassies & Consulates

All embassies are in Havana, and most are open from 8am to noon on weekdays. Australia is represented in the Canadian Embassy. New Zealand is represented in the UK Embassy. Canada has additional consulates in Varadero and Guardalavaca.

Austrian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-2825; Av 5A No 6617, cnr Calle 70, Miramar)

Canadian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-2516; Calle 30 No 518, Playa) Also represents Australia.

Danish Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-866-8128; Paseo de Martí No 20, 4th fl)

Dutch Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-2511; Calle 8 No 307, btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar)

French Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-201-3131; Calle 14 No 312, btwn Avs 3 & 5, Miramar)

German Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-833-2539; Calle 13 No 652, Vedado)

Italian Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-5615; Av 5 No 402, Miramar)

Japanese Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-3508; Miramar Trade Center, cnr Av 3 & Calle 80, Playa)

Mexican Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-7722; Calle 12 No 518, Miramar)

Spanish Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-866-8025; Cárcel No 51)

Swedish Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-2831; Calle 34 No 510, Miramar)

Swiss Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-204-2611; Av 5 No 2005, btwn Avs 20 & 22, Miramar)

UK Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-214-2200; Calle 34 No 702, Miramar) Also represents New Zealand.

US Embassy ( GOOGLE MAP ; %7-833-3543; Calzada, btwn Calles L & M, Vedado)

Food & Drink

Cuban cuisine - popularly known as comida criollla - has improved immensely since new privatization laws passed in 2011 inspired a plethora of pioneering restaurants to take root, particularly in Havana. Travel outside the bigger cities, however,and Cuban food can still be limited and insipid.

Where to Eat & Drink

Government-Run Restaurants

Government-run restaurants operate in either moneda nacional or convertibles. Moneda nacional restaurants are often pretty grim and are notorious for handing you a nine-page menu (in Spanish) when the only thing available is fried chicken. There are, however, a few newer exceptions to this rule. Moneda nacional restaurants will normally accept payment in CUC$, though sometimes at an inferior exchange rate to the standard 25 to one.

Restaurants that sell food in convertibles are generally more reliable, but this isn't capitalism: just because you're paying more doesn't necessarily mean better service. Food is often limp and unappetizing and discourse with bored waiters can be worthy of a Monty Python sketch (whatever you do, don't complain about a dirty fork). That said, things have got progressively better in the last seven years. The state-run Palmares group manages a wide variety of excellent restaurants countrywide from bog-standard beach shacks to the New York Times–lauded El Aljibe in Miramar, Havana. The government-run restaurants in Habana Vieja are some of the best in Cuba, and Gaviota has recently tarted up some of its old staples. Employees of state-run restaurants will not earn more than CUC$20 a month (the average Cuban salary), so tips are highly appreciated.

Private Restaurants

First established in 1995 during the economic chaos of the Special Period, private restaurants owe much of their success to the sharp increase in tourist traffic in Cuba, coupled with the bold experimentation of local chefs who, despite a paucity of decent ingredients, have heroically managed to keep the age-old traditions of Cuban cooking alive. They have proliferated since new business laws were passed in 2011, especially in Havana. Private restaurant meals are generally more expensive than their state-run equivalents, costing anything between CUC$8 and CUC$30.

In the last five years or so, private restaurants have become more adventurous, plying an increasing array of international and fusion dishes. Italian-themed and, to a lesser extent, Spanish-themed restaurants are popular all over the island. Havana has recently sprouted places specializing in Korean, Russian and Iranian food.

Vegetarians

In a land with a recent history of rationing and food shortages, strict vegetarians (ie no lard, no meat bullion, no fish) will have a hard time. Cubans don't traditionally understand vegetarianism, and when they do (or when they say they do), it can be summarized rather adroitly with one key word: omelet – or, at a stretch, scrambled eggs. However, things are changing. Cooks in casas particulares, who may already have have had experience cooking meatless dishes for other travelers, are usually pretty good at accommodating vegetarians. The same goes for private restaurants, many of which have started to develop menus with vegetarian sections. Havana and Viñales have recently sprouted Cuba's first decent full-blown vegetarian restaurants.

Staples & Specialties

Cuban meals are characterized by congrí (rice flecked with black beans), meat (primarily pork, closely followed by chicken and beef), fried plantains (green bananas), salad (limited to seasonal ingredients) and root vegetables, usually yuca (cassava) and calabaza (pumpkin-like squash).

Pescado (fish) is also readily available. Though you'll come across dorado, aguja (swordfish), and occasionally octopus and crab in some of the specialist seafood places, you're more likely to see pargo (red snapper), lobster or prawns.

Cubans are also aficionados of ice cream and the nuances of different flavors are heatedly debated. Coppelia ice cream is legendary, but ridiculously cheap tubs of other brands (440g for CUC$1) can be procured almost everywhere, and even the machine-dispensed peso stuff ain't half bad.

EATING PRICE RANGES

It will be a very rare meal in Cuba that costs over CUC$25. Restaurant listings use the following price brackets for main dishes.

$ less than CUC$7

$$ CUC$7–15

$$$ more than CUC$15

LGBTIQ Travellers

While Cuba isn't a queer destination (yet), it's more tolerant than many other Latin American countries. The hit movie Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate, 1994) sparked a national dialogue about homosexuality. Activist Mariela Castro, the daughter of Raúl, has led the way in much-needed LGBT reforms and changing social perceptions. Today Cuba is pretty tolerant, all things considered.

People from more accepting societies may find this tolerance too 'don't ask, don't tell' or tokenistic but Cuba remains ahead of most of Latin America in this respect.

Lesbianism is less tolerated and seldom discussed and you'll see very little open displays of gay pride between female lovers. There are occasional fiestas para chicas (not necessarily all-girl parties but close); ask around at the Cine Yara in Havana's gay cruising zone.

Cubans are physical with each other and you'll see men hugging, women holding hands and lots of friendly caressing. This type of casual, non-sensual touching shouldn't be a problem.

Health

From a medical point of view, Cuba is generally safe as long as you're reasonably careful about what you eat and drink. The most common travel-related diseases, such as dysentery and hepatitis, are acquired by the consumption of contaminated food and water. Mosquito-borne illnesses are not a significant concern on most of the islands within the Cuban archipelago, though Zika virus is known to be present. Pregnant women or women who plan to get pregnant and their partners should check travel advisories before going to Cuba.

Prevention is the key to staying healthy while traveling around Cuba. Travelers who receive the recommended vaccines and follow commonsense precautions usually come away with nothing more than a little diarrhea.

Health Insurance

Since May 2010, Cuba has made it obligatory for all foreign visitors to have medical insurance. Random checks are made at the airport, so ensure you bring a printed copy of your policy.

Should you end up in hospital, call Asistur for help with insurance and medical assistance. The company has regional offices in Havana, Varadero, Cayo Coco, Guardalavaca and Santiago de Cuba.

Outpatient treatment at international clinics is reasonably priced, but emergency and prolonged hospitalization gets expensive (the free medical system for Cubans should only be used when there is no other option).

Should you have to purchase medical insurance on arrival, you will pay from CUC$3 per day for coverage of up to CUC$25,000 in medical expenses (for illness) and CUC$10,000 for repatriation of a sick person.

Health Care for Foreigners

The Cuban government has established a for-profit health system for foreigners called Servimed (%7-240-141; www.servimedcuba.com), which is entirely separate from the free, not-for-profit system that takes care of Cuban citizens. There are more than 40 Servimed health centers across the island, offering primary care as well as a variety of specialty and high-tech services. If you're staying in a hotel, the usual way to access the system is to ask the manager for a physician referral. Servimed centers accept walk-ins. While Cuban hospitals provide some free emergency treatment for foreigners, this should only be used when there is no other option. Remember that in Cuba medical resources are scarce and the local populace should be given priority in free health-care facilities.

Almost all doctors and hospitals expect payment in cash, regardless of whether you have travel health insurance or not. If you develop a life-threatening medical problem, you'll probably want to be evacuated to a country with state-of-the-art medical care. Since this may cost tens of thousands of dollars, be sure you have insurance to cover this before you depart.

There are special pharmacies for foreigners also run by the Servimed system, but all Cuban pharmacies are notoriously short on supplies, including pharmaceuticals. Be sure to bring along adequate quantities of all medications you might need, both prescription and over the counter. Also, be sure to bring along a fully stocked medical kit. Pharmacies marked turno permanente or pilotos are open 24 hours.

Tap Water

Tap water in Cuba is not reliably safe to drink and outbreaks of cholera have been recorded in the past few years. Bottled water called Ciego Montero rarely costs more than CUC$1, but is sometimes not available in small towns. Stock up in the cities when going on long bus or car journeys.

Internet Access

State-run telecommunications company Etecsa has a monopoly as Cuba's internet service provider. For public internet access, almost every provincial town has an Etecsa telepuntos center where you can wait in line to enter and buy a one-hour user card (CUC$1.50) with scratch-off usuario (code) and contraseña (password) to use at computers onsite or in a public wi-fi area (usually the central plaza of a town). Cards can be used for multiple internet sessions.

There are few, if any, independent internet cafes outside the telepuntos. As a general rule, most three- to five-star hotels (and all resort hotels) have wi-fi and internet terminals. They also can be a more convenient place to buy scratchcards, though some hotels charge abusive rates for them (sometimes as much as CUC$7 per hour).

Very few casas particulares offer internet, but their numbers are growing.

Warning: connections are often slow and temperamental, particularly at peak times (late afternoon and early evening).

Legal Matters

Cuban police are everywhere and they're usually very friendly – more likely to ask you for a date than a bribe. Corruption is a serious offense in Cuba, and typically no one wants to get mixed up in it. Getting caught out without identification is never good; carry some around just in case (a driver's license, a copy of your passport or a student ID card should be sufficient).

Drugs are prohibited in Cuba, though you may still get offered marijuana and cocaine on the streets of Havana. Penalties for buying, selling, holding or taking drugs are serious, and Cuba is making a concerted effort to treat demand and curtail supply; it is only the foolish traveler who partakes while on a Cuban vacation.

Maps

Signage is awful in Cuba, so a good map is essential for drivers and cyclists alike. The comprehensive Guía de Carreteras, published in Italy, includes the best maps available in Cuba. If it doesn't come free when you rent a car, you can usually buy it. It has a complete index, a detailed Havana map and useful information in English, Spanish, Italian and French. Handier is the all-purpose Automapa Nacional, available at hotel shops and car-rental offices.

The best map published outside Cuba is the Freytag & Berndt 1:1.25 million Cuba map. The island map is good, and it has indexed town plans of Havana, Playas del Este, Varadero, Cienfuegos, Camagüey and Santiago de Cuba.

For good basic maps, pick up one of the provincial Guías available in Infotur offices.

Money

This is a tricky part of any Cuban trip, as the double economy takes some getting used to. As of early 2017, two currencies were still circulating in Cuba: convertible pesos (CUC$) and Cuban pesos (referred to as moneda nacional, abbreviated MN$).

Most things tourists pay for are in convertibles (eg accommodation, rental cars, bus tickets, museum admission and internet access). At the time of writing, Cuban pesos were selling at 25 to one convertible, and while there are many things you can't buy with moneda nacional, using them on certain occasions means you'll see a bigger slice of authentic Cuba. The prices we list are in convertibles unless otherwise stated.

Making everything a little more confusing, euros are also accepted at the Varadero, Guardalavaca, Cayo Largo del Sur, Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo resorts, but once you leave the resort grounds you'll still need convertibles.

The best currencies to bring to Cuba are euros, Canadian dollars or pounds sterling. The worst is US dollars, for which you will be penalized with a 10% fee (on top of the normal commission) when you buy convertibles (CUC$). Since 2011, the Cuban convertible has been pegged 1:1 to the US dollar, meaning its rate will fluctuate depending on the strength/weakness of the US dollar. Australian dollars are not accepted anywhere in Cuba.

Cadeca branches in every city and town sell Cuban pesos (MN$). You won't need more than CUC$10 worth of pesos a week. There is almost always a branch at the local agropecuario (vegetable market). If you get caught without Cuban pesos and are drooling for that ice-cream cone, you can always use convertibles; in street transactions such as these, CUC$1 is equal to 25 pesos and you'll receive change in pesos. There is no black market money changing in Cuba, only hustlers trying to fleece you with money-changing scams.

ATMs & Credit Cards

Cuba is primarily a cash economy. Credit cards are accepted in resort hotels and some city hotels. There are a growing number of ATMs.

US residents must note: as of early 2017, debit and credit cards from the USA could still not be used.

The acceptance of credit cards has become more widespread in Cuba in recent years and was aided by the legalization of US and US-linked credit and debit cards in early 2015. However, change is still a work in process.

While services can still be booked with credit cards from the USA on the internet, in the country it's another story. Residents of the US can wire money via Western Union, though this requires help from a third party and hefty fees.

When weighing up whether to use a credit card or cash, bear in mind that the charges levied by Cuban banks are similar for both (around 3%). However, your home bank may charge additional fees for ATM/credit card transactions. An increasing number of debit cards work in Cuba, but it's best to check with both your home bank and the local Cuban bank before using them.

Ideally, it is best to arrive in Cuba with a stash of cash and a credit and debit card as back-up.

Almost all private business in Cuba (ie at casas particulares and paladares) is still conducted in cash.

Cash advances can be drawn from credit cards, but the commission is the same. Check with your home bank before you leave, as many banks won't authorize large withdrawals in foreign countries unless you notify them of your travel plans first.

ATMs are becoming more common. This being Cuba, it is wise to only use ATMs when the bank is open, in case any problems occur.

Cash

Credit cards don't have the importance or ubiquity that they do elsewhere in the western hemisphere. Although carrying just cash is far riskier than the usual cash/credit card/debit card mix, it's infinitely more convenient. As long as you use a concealed money belt and keep the cash on you or in your hotel's safety deposit box at all times, you should be OK.

It's better to ask for CUC$20/10/5/3/1 bills when you're changing money, as many smaller Cuban businesses (taxis, restaurants etc) can't change anything bigger (ie CUC$50 or CUC$100 bills) and the words no hay cambio (no change) echo everywhere. If desperate, you can always break big bills at hotels.

Denominations & Lingo

One of the most confusing parts of a double economy is terminology. Cuban pesos are called moneda nacional (abbreviated MN) or pesos Cubanos or simply pesos, while convertible pesos are called pesos convertibles (abbreviated CUC), or simply pesos (again!). More recently people have been referring to them as cucs. Sometimes you'll be negotiating in pesos Cubanos and your counterpart will be negotiating in pesos convertibles. It doesn't help that the notes look similar as well. Worse, the symbol for both convertibles and Cuban pesos is $. You can imagine the potential scams just working these combinations.

The Cuban peso comes in notes of one, five, 10, 20, 50 and 100 pesos; and coins of one (rare), five and 20 centavos, and one and three pesos. The five-centavo coin is called a medio, the 20-centavo coin a peseta. Centavos are also called kilos.

The convertible peso comes in multicolored notes of one, three, five, 10, 20, 50 and 100 pesos; and coins of five, 10, 25 and 50 centavos, and one peso.

CURRENCY UNIFICATION

In October 2013, Raúl Castro announced that Cuba would gradually unify its dual currencies (convertibles and moneda nacional). As a result, prices are liable to change. At the time of writing, the unification process had yet to begin and no further details had emerged as to when or how the government will go about implementing the complex changes. Check www.lonelyplanet.com for updates.

Post

Letters and postcards sent to Europe and the US take about a month to arrive. While sellos (stamps) are sold in Cuban pesos and convertibles, correspondence bearing the latter has a better chance of arriving. Postcards cost CUC$0.65 to all countries. Letters cost CUC$0.65 to the Americas, CUC$0.75 to Europe and CUC$0.85 to all other countries. Prepaid postcards, including international postage, are available at most hotel shops and post offices and are the surest bet for successful delivery. For important mail, you're better off using DHL, which is located in all the major cities; it costs CUC$55 for a 900g letter pack to Australia, or CUC$50 to Europe.

PRACTICALITIES

Electrical current 110V with 220V in many tourist hotels and resorts.

Newspapers Three state-controlled, national newspapers: Granma, Juventud Rebelde and Trabajadores.

TV Five national television channels with some imported foreign shows on the newer Multivisión channel.

Smoking Technically banned in enclosed spaces but only sporadically enforced.

Weights and measures Metric system except in some fruit and vegetable markets, where imperial is used.

Public Holidays

Officially Cuba has nine public holidays. Other important national days to look out for include January 28 (anniversary of the birth of José Martí); April 19 (Bay of Pigs victory); October 8 (anniversary of the death of Che Guevara); October 28 (anniversary of the death of Camilo Cienfuegos); and December 7 (anniversary of the death of Antonio Maceo).

January 1 Triunfo de la Revolución (Liberation Day)

January 2 Día de la Victoria (Victory of the Armed Forces)

May 1 Día de los Trabajadores (International Worker's Day)

July 25–27 Día de la Rebeldía Nacional (Commemoration of Moncada Attack)

October 10 Día de la Indepedencia (Independence Day)

December 25 Navidad (Christmas Day)

December 31 New Year's Eve

Safe Travel

Cuba is generally safer than most countries, with violent attacks extremely rare. Petty theft (eg rifled luggage in hotel rooms or unattended shoes disappearing from the beach) is common, but preventative measures work wonders. Pickpocketing is preventable: wear your bag in front of you on crowded buses and at busy markets, and only take the money you will need when you head out at night.

Begging is more widespread and is exacerbated by tourists who hand out money, soap, pens, chewing gum and other things to people on the street. If you truly want to do something to help, pharmacies and hospitals will accept medicine donations, schools happily take pens, paper, crayons etc, and libraries will gratefully accept books. Alternatively pass stuff onto your casa particular owner or leave it at a local church. Hustlers are called jinteros/jinteras (male/female touts), and can be a real nuisance.

Telephone

Cell phone usage has become relatively widespread in Cuba in the last few years. Normally a recorded message will inform you of phone number changes. Etecsa telepuntos have air-conditioned phone and internet terminals in almost every provincial town.

Cell Phones

Check with your service provider to see if your phone will work (GSM or TDMA networks only). International calls are expensive. You can pre-buy services from the state-run phone company, Cubacel.

You can use your own GSM or TDMA phones in Cuba, though you'll have to get a local chip and pay an activation fee (approximately CUC$30) at Etecsa telepunto. Bring your passport. There are numerous offices around the country (including at the Havana airport) where you can do this.

Costs run between CUC$0.35 per minute for calls within Cuba, CUC$0.10 for texts. You pay the same amount if a fixed line calls you. International calls start at CUC$1.10 per minute. To rent a phone in Cuba costs from CUC$8 plus a CUC$3 daily activation fee. You'll also need to pay a CUC$100 deposit. Charges after this amount to around CUC$0.35 per minute. For up-to-date costs and information see www.etecsa.cu.

Phone Codes

ATo call Cuba from abroad, dial your international access code, Cuba’s country code (53), the city or area code (minus the ‘0,’ which is used when dialing domestically between provinces), and the local number.

ATo call internationally from Cuba, dial Cuba’s international access code (119), the country code, the area code and the number. To the US, you just dial 119, then 1, the area code and the number.

ATo call cell phone to cell phone just dial the eight-digit number (which always starts with a ‘5’).

ATo call cell phone to landline (or landline to landline) dial the provincial code plus the local number.

ATo call landline to cell phone dial ‘01’ (or ‘0’ if in Havana) followed by the eight-digit cell phone number.

ATo call landline to landline dial ‘0’ plus the provincial code plus the local number.

Phone Rates

Local calls cost from five centavos to 75 centavos per minute depending on the time of day and distance. Since most coin phones don't return change, common courtesy means that you should push the 'R' button so that the next person in line can make their call with your remaining money.

International calls made with a card cost CUC$1 per minute regardless of destination.

Hotels with three stars and up usually offer slightly pricier international phone rates.

Phonecards

Etecsa is where you buy phonecards, use the internet and make international calls. Blue public Etecsa phones accepting magnetized or computer-chip cards are everywhere. The cards are sold in convertibles (CUC$5, CUC$10 and CUC$20), and in moneda nacional (five and 10 pesos). You can call nationally with either, but you can call internationally only with convertible cards.

You will also see coin-operated phone booths good for Cuban pesos (moneda nacional) only.

Tourist Information

Cuba's official tourist information bureau is called Infotur (www.infotur.cu). It has offices in all the main provincial towns and desks in most of the bigger hotels and airports. Travel agencies, such as Cubanacán (%7-833-4090; www.cubanacan.cu), Cubatur (%7-838-4597; www.cubtur.cu), Gaviota and Ecotur can usually supply some general information.

Travelers with Disabilities

Cuba's inclusive culture extends to disabled travelers, and while facilities may be lacking, the generous nature of Cubans generally compensates when it can. Sight-impaired travelers will be helped across streets and given priority in lines. The same holds true for travelers in wheelchairs, who will find the few ramps ridiculously steep and will have trouble in colonial parts of town where sidewalks are narrow and streets are cobblestone. Elevators are often out of order. Etecsa phone centers have telephone equipment for the hearing-impaired, and TV programs are broadcast with closed captioning.

Visas & Tourist Cards

Regular tourists who plan to spend up to two months in Cuba do not need visas. Instead, you get a tarjeta de turista (tourist card) valid for 30 days, which can be extended once you're in Cuba (Canadians get 90 days plus the option of a 90-day extension).

Package tourists receive their card with their other travel documents. Those going 'air only' usually buy the tourist card from the travel agency or airline office that sells them the plane ticket, but policies vary (eg Canadian airlines give out tourist cards on their airplanes), so you'll need to check ahead with the airline office via phone or email.

In some cases you may be required to buy and/or pick up the card at your departure airport, sometimes at the flight gate itself some minutes before departure. Some independent travelers have been denied access to Cuba flights because they inadvertently haven't obtained a tourist card.

Once in Havana, tourist-card extensions or replacements cost another CUC$25. You cannot leave Cuba without presenting your tourist card. If you lose it, you can expect to face at least a day of frustrating Cuba-style bureaucracy to get it replaced.

You are not permitted entry to Cuba without an onward ticket.

Fill the tourist card out clearly and carefully, as Cuban customs are particularly fussy about crossings out and illegibility.

Business travelers and journalists need visas. Applications should be made through a consulate at least three weeks in advance (longer if you apply through a consulate in a country other than your own).

Visitors with visas or anyone who has stayed in Cuba longer than 90 days must apply for an exit permit from an immigration office. The Cuban consulate in London issues official visas (£22 plus two photos; £47 by mail). They take two weeks to process, and the name of an official contact in Cuba is necessary.

Licenses for US Visitors

The US government issues two sorts of licenses for travel to Cuba: ‘specific’ and ‘general.’ Specific licenses are considered on a case-by-case basis and require a lengthy and sometimes complicated application process; their application should start at least 45 days before your intended date of departure.

Most visitors will travel under general licenses. General licenses are self-qualifying and don’t require travelers to notify the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) of their travel plans. Travelers sign an affidavit stating the purpose of travel and purchase a Cuban visa at check-in when departing the United States via flights. Visas average $50, purchased through airlines or established third parties. Note that the Trump administration has eliminated individual travel under the ‘educational purpose’ license category.

You might need supporting documentation to back up your claim when you book your flight ticket. Check with the US Department of the Treasury (www.treasury.gov/resource-center/sanctions/Programs/pages/cuba.aspx) to see if you qualify for a license.

Extensions

For most travelers, obtaining an extension once in Cuba is easy: you just go to the inmigración (immigration office) and present your documents and CUC$25 in stamps. Obtain these stamps from a branch of Bandec or Banco Financiero Internacional beforehand. You'll only receive an additional 30 days after your original 30 days (apart from Canadians who get an additional 90 days after their original 90), but you can exit and re-enter the country for 24 hours and start over again (some travel agencies in Havana have special deals for this type of trip). Attend to extensions at least a few business days before your visa is due to expire and never attempt travel around Cuba with an expired visa.

US CITIZENS & CUBA

When President Obama decided to restore diplomatic relations with Cuba, decades of regulations started to shift, though some measures still await change (like banking). To further complicate matters, the Trump administration has already signaled a partial rollback of the new policies.

In conjunction with the US embargo against Cuba, the US government ‘travel ban,’ which had prevented US citizens from visiting Cuba, relaxed under the Obama administration. Technically a treasury law prohibiting Americans from spending money in Cuba,it squelched leisure travel for more than 45 years. Currently, visitors undertaking non-tourism related activities are allowed to visit Cuba provided they meet the requirements of special categories.

A little history: The 1996 Helms-Burton Act, which was signed into law by President Clinton on March 12, 1996, imposes without judicial review fines of up to US$50,000 on US citizens who visit Cuba without US government permission. It also allows for confiscation of their property. In addition, under the Trading with the Enemy Act, violators may face up to US$250,000 in fines and up to 10 years in prison.

Under the Obama administration there was considerable progress in Cuban relations. Bilateral agreements have eased travel restrictions for Cuban-Americans, direct commercial flights are operating between the US and Cuba, there’s a postal service between the two countries, restrictions on goods brought from Cuba has relaxed, and there is greater leniency in the granting of legal licenses. However, the Trump administration has moved to limit self-directed, individual travel and direct economic activity away from the Cuban military.

Cuban Immigration Offices

Nearly all provincial towns have an immigration office (where you can extend your visa), though the staff rarely speak English and aren't always overly helpful. Try to avoid Havana's office if you can, as it gets ridiculously crowded.

Baracoa ( GOOGLE MAP ; Antonio Maceo No 48, Baracoa)

Bayamo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %23-57-25-84; Carretera Central, Km 2, Bayamo; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thu & Sat) In a big complex 200m south of the Hotel Sierra Maestra.

Camagüey ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle 3 No 156, btwn Calles 8 & 10, Reparto Vista Hermosa; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thur & Sat)

Ciego de Ávila ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Delgado & Independencia, Ciego de Ávila; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thu & Sat)

Cienfuegos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %43-52-10-17; Av 46, btwn Calles 29 & 31, Cienfuegos)

Guantánamo ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle 1 Oeste, btwn Calles 14 & 15 Norte, Guantánamo; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thu & Sat) Directly behind Hotel Guantánamo.

Havana ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle 17 No 203, btwn Calles J & K, Vedado; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thu & Sat)

Holguín ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle Fomento No 256, cnr Peralejo, Holguín; 8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-5pm Tue, 8am-noon Thu & Sat)

Las Tunas ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Camilo Cienfuegos, Reparto Buenavista; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 5pm Tue, to noon Thu & Sat)

Sancti Spíritus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %41-32-47-29; Independencia Norte No 107; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 5pm Tue, to noon Thu & Sat)

Santa Clara ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av Sandino & Sexta, Santa Clara; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 5pm Tue, to noon Thu & Sat) Three blocks east of Estadio Sandino.

Santiago de Cuba ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22-64-19-83; Av Pujol No 10, btwn Calle 10 & Anacaona; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 5pm Tue, to noon Thu & Sat) Stamps for visa extensions are sold at the Banco de Crédito y Comercio at Felix Peña No 614 on Parque Céspedes.

Trinidad ( GOOGLE MAP ; Julio Cueva Díaz; h8am-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 5pm Tue, to noon Thu & Sat) Off Paseo Agramonte.

Varadero ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 1 & Calle 39, Varadero)

Volunteering

There are a number of bodies offering volunteer work in Cuba, though it is always best to organize things in your home country first. Just turning up in Havana and volunteering can be difficult, if not impossible. Those with a people-to-people license work with US visitors.

Canada-Cuba Farmer to Farmer Project (www.farmertofarmer.ca) Vancouver-based sustainable agriculture organization.

Cuban Solidarity Campaign (www.cuba-solidarity.org) Head office in London, UK.

Global Volunteers (https://globalvolunteers.org/cuba) With programs in Havana, Ciego de Avila and Sancti Spríritus.

Go Overseas (www.gooverseas.com) A catalog of 22 programs in Cuba organized by length of stay, area and program rating, many officially licensed by the US.

Pastors for Peace (www.ifconews.org) Collects donations across the US to take to Cuba.

Witness for Peace (www.witnessforpeace.org) People-to-people licensed. Brings delegations to Cuba, some studying the impact of US policy.

Women Travelers

In terms of physical safety, Cuba is a dream destination for women travelers. Most streets can be walked alone at night, violent crime is rare and the chivalrous part of machismo means you'll never step into oncoming traffic.

But machismo cuts both ways, protecting on one side and pursuing – relentlessly – on the other. It can be tiresome to go out alone at night and steel yourself against the onslaught of pretendientes (men courting), unless you're really keen on them or improving your Spanish. There's also relatively few solo travelers in Cuba and no youth hostels which means fewer travelers to keep company with.

Cuban women are used to piropos (the whistles, kissing sounds and compliments constantly ringing in their ears), and might even reply with their own if they're feeling frisky. For foreign women, however, it can feel like an invasion.

Ignoring piropos is the first step. But sometimes ignoring isn't enough. Learn some rejoinders in Spanish so you can shut men up. No me moleste (don't bother me), está bueno ya (all right already) or que falta respeto (how disrespectful) are good ones, as is the withering 'don't you dare' stare that is also part of the Cuban woman's arsenal. Wearing plain, modest clothes might help lessen unwanted attention; topless sunbathing is out. An absent husband, invented or not, seldom has any effect. If you go to a disco, be very clear with Cuban dance partners what you are and are not interested in.

Women must bring their own tampons (non-existent in Cuba) or pads (called íntimos, literally 'intimates').