San José
Sights
Activities
Course
Tours
Festival & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
San José
Pop Over 1.5 million (Greater Metro Area) / Elev 1170m / Area 2366 sq km
Why Go?
Chances are San José wasn't the top destination on your list when you started planning your Costa Rica trip, but give this city a chance and you just might be pleasantly surprised. It's true that Chepe – as San José is affectionately known – doesn't make a great first impression, with its unremarkable concrete structures and honking traffic, but it's well worth digging deeper to discover the city's charms.
Take your time poking around historic neighborhoods like Barrio Amón, where colonial mansions have been converted into contemporary art galleries, restaurants and boutique hotels. Stroll with Saturday shoppers at the farmers market, join the Sunday crowds in Parque La Sabana, dance the night away to live music at one of the city's vibrant clubs, or visit the museums of gold, jade, art and natural history, and you'll begin to understand the multidimensional appeal of Costa Rica's largest city and cultural capital.
When to Go
Rainy season usually lasts from mid-April through December. The city's climate is considerably cooler than on the coasts, especially at night; daytime temps generally vary between 21°C and 27°C (70°F to 80°F). The best time to visit is around the Christmas holidays, when the Ticos' (Costa Ricans') festive cheer reaches its height, with the Festival de la Luz and Las Fiestas de Zapote being unmissable highlights. Otherwise, any season is good for exploring the capital's cultural attractions.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
San José Highlights
1 Admiring Costa Rica's artistic traditions past and present at the Museo de Oro and Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo.
2 Savoring classical music amid the beaux-arts interiors of the Teatro Nacional.
3 Poking around the lively Feria Verde de Aranjuez farmers market in search of locally grown and gourmet treats.
4 Grooving to live bands at the storied Jazz Café in San Pedro or up-and-coming El Sótano downtown.
5 Indulging your taste buds at the fun bars and fine eateries of Barrio Escalante, or pub-crawling alongside hard-partying Tico students in San Pedro.
6 Exploring the vast universe of carved stone and ceramic treasures at the newly reopened Museo de Jade.
San José
History
For much of the colonial period, San José played second fiddle to the bigger and relatively more established Cartago, a city whose origins date back to 1563 and which, during the colonial era, served as the provincial capital. Villanueva de la Boca del Monte del Valle de Abra – as San José was first known – was not founded until 1737, when the Catholic Church issued an edict that forced the populace to settle near churches (attendance was down).
The city remained a backwater for decades, though it did experience some growth as a stop in the tobacco trading route during the late 18th century. Following independence in 1821, rival factions in Cartago and San José each attempted to assert regional supremacy. The struggle ended in 1823 when the two sides faced off at the Battle of Ochomongo. San José emerged the victor and subsequently declared itself capital.
Despite its new status, the city remained a quiet agricultural center into the 20th century. The calm was shattered in the 1940s, when parts of San José served as a battlefield in the civil war of 1948, one of the bloodiest conflicts in the country’s history. Out of that clash, José Figueres Ferrer of the Partido de Liberación Nacional (National Liberation Party) emerged as the country’s interim leader – signing a declaration that abolished the army at the armory that now serves as the Museo Nacional.
The rest of the 20th century would see the expansion of the city from diminutive coffee-trading outpost to sprawling urban center. In the 1940s San José had only 70,000 residents. Today, the greater metro population stands at almost 1.6 million. Recent years have been marked by massive urban migration as Ticos (Costa Ricans) and, increasingly, Nicaraguans have moved to the capital in search of economic opportunity. As part of this, shantytowns have mushroomed on the outskirts, and crime is increasingly becoming a part of life for the city’s poorest inhabitants.
The city remains a vital economic and arts hub, home to important banks, museums and universities – as well as the everyday outposts of culture: live-music spaces, art centers, bookstores and the corner restaurants where josefinos (people from San José) gather to chew over ideas.
SAN JOSé IN...
ONE DAY
Begin with a peek inside the city’s most beautiful building, the 19th-century Teatro Nacional. Enjoy an espresso at the theater’s atmospheric cafe before heading into the nearby Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática to peruse its trove of the country’s pre-Columbian gold treasures. From here, stroll northeast through Parque Morazán to the Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo, Central America’s most prominent contemporary-arts institution.
Take lunch on the terrace of Café Mundo or Kalú. Afterwards, browse the shops of historic Barrio Amón, such as Kiosco SJO, Galería Namu and eÑe, then end your afternoon sampling Costa Rican microbrews at Stiefel or enjoying a happy-hour cocktail at El Morazán.
TWO DAYS
Start your second day in town with a primer on Costa Rican history at the Museo Nacional, then cross Plaza de la Democracia to the newly relocated and expanded Museo de Jade. After a stroll through the neighboring Mercado Artesanal for handicrafts, go west on Av Central to the Catedral Metropolitana, where josefinos (people from San José) still pack the pews for daily mass. Afterward, head northwest to the Mercado Central to shop for Costa Rican coffee, cigars and cheap eats.
In the evening, venture east to Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante and San Pedro, where you'll find some of San José’s best neighborhood eateries and bars, and the city’s most esteemed venue for live music, the Jazz Café.
1Sights
San José is small and best explored on foot, joining locals along teeming sidewalks and pedestrian boulevards that lead to vintage theaters, crowded cafes, tree-shaded parks and some of the finest museums in Central America.
San José
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
Central San José East
oPlaza de la CulturaPLAZA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5)
For many Ticos, Costa Rica begins here. This architecturally unremarkable concrete plaza in the heart of downtown is usually packed with locals slurping ice-cream cones and admiring the wide gamut of San José street life: juggling clowns, itinerant vendors and cruising teenagers. It is perhaps one of the safest spots in the city since there's a police tower stationed at one corner.
Museo de Oro Precolombino y NumismáticaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%2243-4221; www.museosdelbancocentral.org; Plaza de la Cultura, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; adult/student/child US$11/8/free; 
h9:15am-5pm)
This three-in-one museum houses an extensive collection of Costa Rica's most priceless pieces of pre-Columbian gold and other artifacts, including historical currency and some contemporary regional art. The museum, housed underneath the Plaza de la Cultura, is owned by the Banco Central and its architecture brings to mind all the warmth and comfort of a bank vault. Security is tight; visitors must leave bags at the door.
oTeatro NacionalNOTABLE BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2010-1100; www.teatronacional.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; admission US$7; h9am-6pm Jan-Apr, to 4pm Mon-Sat May-Dec)
On the southern side of the Plaza de la Cultura resides the Teatro Nacional, San José’s most revered public building. Constructed in 1897, it features a columned neoclassical facade that is flanked by statues of Beethoven and famous 17th-century Spanish dramatist Calderón de la Barca. The lavish marble lobby and auditorium are lined with paintings depicting various facets of 19th-century life. If you’re looking to rest your feet, there's also an excellent onsite cafe.
The theater's most famous painting is Alegoría al café y el banano, an idyllic canvas showing coffee and banana harvests. The painting was produced in Italy and shipped to Costa Rica for installation in the theater, and the image was reproduced on the old ₡5 note (now out of circulation). It seems clear that the painter never witnessed a banana harvest because of the way the man in the center is awkwardly grasping a bunch (actual banana workers hoist the stems onto their shoulders).
Across the street, also belonging to the national theater, is the Museo Homenaje Joaquín García Monge, which features temporary exhibitions by contemporary Costa Rican and Central American artists.
Museo Nacional de Costa RicaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2257-1433; www.museocostarica.go.cr; Calle 17 btwn Avs Central & 2; adult/child US$8/4; h8:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4:30pm Sun)
Entered via a beautiful glassed-in atrium housing an exotic butterfly garden, this museum provides a quick survey of Costa Rican history. Exhibits of pre-Columbian pieces from ongoing digs, as well as artifacts from the colony and the early republic are all housed inside the old Bellavista Fortress, which served historically as the army headquarters and saw fierce fighting (hence the pockmarks) in the 1948 civil war.
It was here that President José Figueres Ferrer announced, in 1949, that he was abolishing the country’s military. Among the museum's many notable pieces is the fountain pen that Figueres used to sign the 1949 constitution. Don’t miss the period galleries in the northeast corner, which feature turn-of-the-20th-century furnishings and decor from when these rooms served as the private residences of the fort’s various commanders.
oMuseo de JadeMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2287-6034; www.ins-cr.com; Plaza de la Democracia; adult/child US$9/free; h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Reopened in its brand-new home in mid-2014, this museum houses the world’s largest collection of American jade (pronounced ‘ha-day’ in Spanish). The ample new exhibition space allows the public greater access to the museum's varied collection of nearly 7000 finely crafted, well-conserved pieces, from translucent jade carvings depicting fertility goddesses, shamans, frogs and snakes to incredible ceramics (some reflecting Mayan influences), including a highly unusual ceramic head displaying a row of serrated teeth.
Plaza de la DemocraciaPLAZA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15)
Between the national museum and the Museo de Jade is the stark Plaza de la Democracia, which was constructed by President Oscar Arias in 1989 to commemorate 100 years of Costa Rican democracy. The concrete plaza is architecturally dull, but some of its elevated terraces provide decent views of the mountains surrounding San José (especially at sunset). On its western flank is an open-air crafts market.
Museo de Arte y Diseño ContemporáneoMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2257-7202; www.madc.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 15; admission US$3, Mon free; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Commonly referred to as MADC, the Contemporary Art & Design Museum is housed in the historic National Liquor Factory building, which dates from 1856. The largest and most important contemporary-art museum in the region, MADC is focused on showing the works of contemporary Costa Rican, Central American and South American artists and occasionally features temporary exhibits devoted to interior design, fashion and graphic art.
Parque EspañaPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 3 & 7 btwn Calles 9 & 11)
Surrounded by heavy traffic, Parque España may be small, but it becomes a riot of birdsong every day at sunset when the local avian population comes in to roost. In addition to being a good spot for a shady break, the park is home to an ornate statue of Christopher Columbus that was given to the people of Costa Rica in 2002 by his descendants, commemorating the quincentennial of the explorer’s landing in Puerto Limón.
Barrio AmónNEIGHBORHOOD
North and west of Plaza España lies this pleasant, historic neighborhood, home to a cluster of cafetalero (coffee grower) mansions constructed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In recent years, many of the area’s historic buildings have been converted into hotels, restaurants and offices, making this a popular district for an architectural stroll. You’ll find everything from art deco concrete manses to brightly painted tropical Victorian structures in various states of upkeep. It is a key arts center.
Parque MorazánPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 3 & 5 btwn Calles 5 & 9)
To the southwest of the Parque España is Parque Morazán, named for Francisco Morazán, the 19th-century general who attempted to unite the Central American nations under a single flag. Once a notorious center of prostitution, the park is now beautifully illuminated in the evenings. At its center is the Templo de Música (Music Temple; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a concrete bandstand that serves as an unofficial symbol of San José.
Edificio MetálicoNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 5 & Calle 9)
One of downtown San José's most striking buildings, this century-old, two-story metal edifice on Parque España's western edge was prefabricated in Belgium, then shipped piece by piece to San José. Today it functions as a school and local landmark.
Casa AmarillaNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av 7 btwn Calles 11 & 13)
On Parque España’s northeast corner, this elegant colonial-style yellow mansion (closed to the public) houses the ministry of foreign affairs. The ceiba tree in front was planted by John F Kennedy during his 1963 visit to Costa Rica. If you walk around to the property’s northeast corner, you can see a graffiti-covered slab of the Berlin Wall standing in the rear garden.
TEOR/éTicaGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-1051; www.teoretica.org; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Wed, 10am-4pm Sat)
F
This contemporary-art museum is the bricks-and-mortar gathering space for the TEOR/éTica Foundation, a nonprofit organization that supports Central American art and culture. Housed in a pair of vintage mansions across the street from one another, each of its elegant rooms exhibits cutting-edge works by established and emerging figures from Latin America and the world.
Parque NacionalPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 1 & 3 btwn Calles 15 & 19)
One of San José’s nicest green spaces, this shady spot lures retirees out to read newspapers and young couples to smooch coyly on concrete benches. At its center is the Monumento Nacional, a dramatic 1953 statue that depicts the Central American nations driving out American filibuster William Walker. The park is dotted with myriad monuments devoted to Latin American historical figures, including Cuban poet, essayist and revolutionary José Martí, Mexican independence figure Miguel Hidalgo and 18th-century Venezuelan humanist Andrés Bello.
Across the street, to the south, stands the Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative Assembly; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which also bears an important statue: this one a depiction of Juan Santamaría – the young man who helped kick the pesky Walker out of Costa Rica – in full flame-throwing action.
Estación del Ferrocarril de Costa RicaNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 3 & Calle 21)
Less than a block to the east of the Parque Nacional is San José's historic train station to the Atlantic, which was built in 1908. Nowadays offering weekday train service to Heredia and Cartago, it’s a remarkable example of tropical architecture, with swirling art nouveau–inspired beams and elaborate stonework all along the roofline.
Central San José West
Parque CentralPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 2 & 4 btwn Calles Central & 2)
The city’s central park is more of a run-down plaza than a park. At its center is a grandiose bandstand that looks as if it was designed by Mussolini: massive concrete arches support a florid roof capped with a ball-shaped decorative knob.
San Jose Central
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
Catedral MetropolitanaCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 2 & 4 btwn Calles Central & 1)
East of Parque Central, the Renaissance-style Catedral Metropolitana was built in 1871 after the previous cathedral was destroyed in an earthquake. The graceful neoclassical interior has colorful Spanish-tile floors, stained-glass windows, and a Christ figure that was produced by a Guatemalan workshop in the late 17th century. On the north side of the nave, a recumbent Christ that dates back to 1878 draws devout Ticos, who arrive here to pray and deposit pleas scribbled on small slips of paper.
Teatro Melico SalazarHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2295-6032; www.teatromelico.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 2)
On the north side of Parque Central is this theatre, which was built in 1928 in a beaux-arts style. It is named after the well-known Costa Rican tenor Melico Salazar (1887–1950), who performed internationally (among other places, he sang at the Metropolitan Opera in New York City). The theater was the site of the 2002 presidential inauguration, and regularly hosts fine-arts engagements.
Mercado CentralMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Avs Central & 1 btwn Calles 6 & 8; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Though josefinos mainly do their shopping at chain supermarkets, San José’s crowded indoor markets retain an old-world feel. This is the main market, lined with vendors hawking everything from spices and coffee beans to pura vida (pure life) souvenir T-shirts.
Mercado Central AnnexMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avs 1 & 3 btwn Calles 6 & 8)
The Mercado Central Annex is less touristy than Mercado Central, and is crowded with butchers, fishmongers and informal counters dishing out typical Costa Rican casados (a set meal of rice, beans and cabbage slaw served with chicken, fish or meat).
Mercado BorbónMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 3 & Calle 8)
The Mercado Borbón is more focused on produce, though it sells a bit of everything. (Be aware: the streets get sketchy around the Borbón.)
Central San José North
Museo de los Niños & Galería NacionalMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2258-4929; www.museocr.org; Calle 4, north of Av 9; adult/child US$2.60/2; h8am-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun; 
c)
If you were wondering how to get your young kids interested in art and science, this unusual museum – actually two museums in one – is an excellent place to start. Housed in an old penitentiary built in 1909, it is part children’s museum and part art gallery. Small children will love the hands-on exhibits related to science, geography and natural history, while grown-ups will enjoy the unusual juxtaposition of contemporary art in abandoned prison cells.
Spirogyra Jardín de MariposasGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-2937; www.butterflygardencr.com; Barrio Amón; adult/child US$7/5; h8am-4pm; c; 
gto El Pueblo)
Housing more than 30 species of butterfly – including the luminescent blue morpho – in plant-filled enclosures, this small butterfly garden is a great spot for kids. Visit in the morning to see plenty of fluttering. The garden is 150m east and 150m south of Centro Comercial El Pueblo, which can be reached on foot (about a 20- to 30-minute walk from downtown), by taxi or by bus.
SAN JOSé FOR CHILDREN
Chances are that if you’re in Costa Rica on a short vacation you’ll be headed out to the countryside fairly quickly. But if for some reason you’re going to be hanging out in San José for a day – or two or three – with your kids, here are a few activities to keep them busy.
Near Parque La Sabana, the Museo de Ciencias Naturales will impress youngsters with its astounding array of skeletons and endless cases full of stuffed animals, while the Museo de los Niños is a sure hit for children who just can’t keep their hands off the exhibits. Young nature-lovers will enjoy getting up close and personal with butterflies at the Spirogyra Jardín de Mariposas or checking out the exotic animals at the Parque Zoológico Nacional Simón Bolívar (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2233-6701; www.fundazoo.org; Av 11 btwn Calles 7 & 9; adult/child US$5/3.50; h8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4:30pm Sat & Sun; c). Just a little further afield (an easy day trip from San José) is the wonderful zoo and wildlife-rescue center Zoo Ave, where you can enjoy native birds and monkeys in a more naturalistic setting.
If you’re spending more than a week in the city, note that many Spanish-language academies offer special custom-made lessons for teens.
La Sabana
West of downtown, the bustle of the city’s congested center gives way to private homes, condo towers and shopping areas chock-full of Ticos. At the heart of this district lies the sprawling Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, a popular recreation center – and a welcome patch of green amid the concrete of the capital.
La Sabana
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
Parque Metropolitano La SabanaPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Once the site of San José’s main airport, this 72-hectare green space at the west end of Paseo Colón is home to a museum, a lagoon and various sports facilities – most notably Costa Rica's national soccer stadium. During the day, the park's paths make a relaxing place for a stroll, a jog or a picnic.
Museo de Arte CostarricenseMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-1281; www.musarco.go.cr; east entrance of Parque La Sabana; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; c)
At the eastern entrance to the Parque La Sabana is the Museo de Arte Costarricense, in a Spanish-style structure that served as San José’s main airport terminal until 1955. The newly remodeled museum features regional art and other exhibits.
Museo de Ciencias Naturales La SalleMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2232-1306; lasalle.ed.cr/museo.php; adult/child US$2/1.60; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; c)
Ever want to see a spider-monkey skeleton (they're cool!) or a herd of taxidermied tapirs? This natural-history museum near Parque La Sabana's southwest corner has an extensive collection of stuffed animals and birds from Costa Rica and far beyond, alongside animal skeletons, minerals and specimens preserved in formaldehyde. Kids in particular will appreciate this place.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Museo de InsectosMUSEUM
(Insect Museum;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2511-5318; www.miucr.ucr.ac.cr; admission US$2; h1-4:45pm Mon-Fri)
Reputedly Central America's largest insect museum, this place has an extensive collection assembled by the Facultad de Agronomía at the Universidad de Costa Rica. Curiously, it is housed in the basement of the music building (Facultad de Artes Musicales), a brutalist structure painted an incongruous shade of Barbie pink. The museum is signposted from the Iglesia de San Pedro.
2Activities
Golfers can reserve tee times at Parque Valle del Sol (%ext 3 2282-9222; www.vallesol.com; 1.7km west of HSBC Bank; 18 holes US$67, incl golf cart US$95; h6:30am-6pm Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm Mon), outside Escazú. If you want to swim with the kiddies and your hotel doesn’t have a pool, head to the Ojo de Agua Springs in San Antonio de Belén, a popular swimming spot for Tico families.
Parque Metropolitano La Sabana (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2284-8700) has a variety of sporting facilities, including tennis courts, volleyball, basketball and baseball areas, jogging paths and soccer pitches. Pickup soccer games can be had on most days, though you’d better be good: Ticos can sink a drop shot by age seven. There is also an Olympic-size swimming pool for serious lap swimmers.
CCourses
You can improve your dance moves at Merecumbé, a chain of studios that will get you grooving to everything from salsa to waltz. Most courses are for locals, but some sessions are geared to foreign travelers. Schedules vary; call ahead. The company has various studios, including one in Escazú (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2289-4774, 8884-7553; cnr Av 26 & Calle Cortés) and another in San Pedro (%2224-3531; 100m south & 25m west of the Banco Popular), though, unfortunately, nothing downtown.
TALK LIKE A TICO
San José is loaded with schools that offer Spanish lessons (either privately or in groups) and provide long-term visitors to the country with everything from dance lessons to volunteer opportunities. A few well-established options are listed below.
Already speak Spanish? To truly talk like a Tico (Costa Rican), check out the Costa Rica Idioms app, available for iPod, iPad and Android. It's quite basic but defines local lingo and uses each term in a sentence. Tuanis, mae! (Cool, dude!)
Amerispan Study AbroadLANGUAGE COURSE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %in USA & Canada 800-511-0179, worldwide 215-531-7917; www.amerispan.com; from US$380/225)
Offers a variety of educational programs, as well as volunteer placements and medical Spanish.
Costa Rican Language AcademyLANGUAGE COURSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2280-5834, in USA 866-230-6361; www.crlang.co.cr; Calle Ronda, Barrio Dent)
In addition to Spanish, it offers cooking and dance classes.
Institute for Central American Development StudiesLANGUAGE COURSE
(ICADS; %2225-0508; www.icads.org; Montes de Oca, San Pedro)
Month-long programs with or without homestays are combined with lectures and activities focused on environmental and political issues.
Personalized SpanishLANGUAGE COURSE
(%2278-3254, in USA 786-245-4124; www.personalizedspanish.com; Tres Ríos)
As the name implies, private classes that cater to your needs.
TTours
The city is small and easily navigable, but if you’re looking for a walking tour that will guide you to key sites, there are plenty on offer.
ChepeCletasTOUR
(%8849-8316, 2222-7548; www.chepecletas.com)
This dynamic Tico-run company offers cultural walking and cycling tours of San José, including a free (tips accepted) Thursday-morning city tour, a foodie-oriented exploration of the Mercado Central, a bar-hopping tour focused on traditional downtown cantinas (canteens) and a guided visit to San José's parks and green spaces.
Barrio Bird Walking ToursWALKING TOUR
(%6050-1952; www.toursanjosecostarica.com; tours from US$28)
The knowledgeable and engaging Stacey Corrales shows visitors San José's famous and not-so-famous sights, providing history and insights on the city's architecture, murals and urban art. Specialized tours also cater to gourmands, photographers and bar-crawlers.
Carpe ChepeTOUR
(%8326-6142; www.carpechepe.com; guided pub crawl US$20; h7pm Thu & Sat)
For an insider's look at Chepe's nightlife, join one of these lively Thursday- and Saturday-evening guided pub crawls, led by an enthusiastic group of young locals. A free welcome shot is included at each of the five bars visited. Online bookings receive a 20% discount.
Costa Rica Art TourTOUR
(%2288-0896, 8359-5571; www.costaricaarttour.com; per person US$150)
This small outfit run by Molly Keeler organizes a recommended day tour that visits five artist studios, where you can view (and buy) the work of local painters, sculptors, printmakers, ceramicists and jewelers. Lunch and hotel pickup is included in the price. Reserve at least a week in advance.
Swiss Travel ServiceWALKING TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2282-4898; www.swisstravelcr.com)
S
This long-standing agency offers a four-hour city tour of San José that hits all the key sites.
zFestivals & Events
Día de San JoséRELIGIOUS
(St Joseph’s Day)
On March 19, San José marks the day of its patron saint with mass in some churches.
Día del BoyeroCULTURAL
On the second Sunday of March, Escazú holds this popular event honoring Costa Rica's boyeros (oxcart drivers). Dozens of attendees from all over the country decorate traditional, brightly painted carts and form a colorful (if slow) parade.
Festival de las ArtesARTS
(www.festivaldelasartes.go.cr)
Every even year, San José becomes host to the biennial citywide arts showcase that features theater, music, dance and film. It’s held for two weeks in March or April. Keep an eye out for information in the daily newspapers.
Desfile de los BoyerosCULTURAL
(Oxcart Parade)
This parade of oxcarts down Paseo Colón takes place every November and is a celebration of the country’s agricultural heritage.
Festival de la LuzRELIGIOUS
(Festival of Light; www.festivaldelaluz.cr)
December brings San José's big Christmas parade, marked by elaborate costumes and floats, and an absurd amount of plastic ‘snow.’
Las Fiestas de ZapoteCULTURAL
(www.fiestaszapote.com; hDec 25 to Jan 5)
Between Christmas and New Year’s, this week-long holiday celebration of all things Costa Rican (namely rodeos, cowboys, carnival rides, fried food and booze) annually draws in tens of thousands of Ticos to the bullring in the suburb of Zapote, just southeast of San José.
4Sleeping
Accommodations in San José run the gamut from simple but homey hostels to luxurious boutique retreats. You’ll find the cheapest sleeps in the city center, with nicer midrange and top-end spots clustered in more well-to-do districts such as Barrio Amón and La Sabana. Also worthwhile for their charm, safety and serenity are the adjacent neighborhoods of Los Yoses and San Pedro, which lie within walking distance of downtown.
For tonier options, the upscale suburb of Escazú – a 20-minute bus ride away – is a good choice. If you’re flying into or out of Costa Rica from here, it may be more convenient to stay in Alajuela, as the town is minutes from the international airport.
Reservations are recommended in the high season (December through April), in particular the two weeks around Christmas and Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week preceding Easter).
Escazú
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
Central San José East
Most of downtown’s better sleeping options are located east of Calle Central, many of them in historic Victorian and art deco mansions. Many of the top-end hotels accept credit cards.
oHostel PangeaHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-1992; www.hostelpangea.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 3 & 3A, Barrio Amón; dm US$14, d with/without bathroom US$45/34, ste from US$55; 
p
i
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s)
This industrial-strength, Tico-owned hostel – 25 dorms and 25 private rooms – has been a popular 20-something backpacker hangout for years. It’s not difficult to see why: it’s smack in the middle of the city and comes stocked with a pool, a rooftop restaurant-lounge with stellar views, and a combination bar–movie theater. Needless to say, it's a party spot.
Rooms are tidy, mattresses firm and the shared bathrooms enormous and clean. The hostel’s five suites have king-size beds and flat-screen TVs. Other perks include free internet, free phone calls to North America, luggage storage and 24-hour airport shuttles (from US$12).
oHostel Casa del ParqueHOSTEL
(
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; %2233-3437; www.hostelcasadelparque.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 1 & 3; dm US$13, d with/without bathroom US$45/35; W)
A vintage art deco manse from 1936 houses this cozy and welcoming spot on the northeastern edge of Parque Nacional. Five large, basic private rooms (one with private bathroom) and a 10-bed dormitory upstairs have parquet floors and simple furnishings. Take some sun on the plant-festooned outdoor patio, lounge in the funkily furnished living room and take advantage of the shared kitchen.
The bilingual young owner, Federico Echeverría, is a good source of local dining information.
Costa Rica BackpackersHOSTEL
(
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; %2221-6191, 2223-2406; www.costaricabackpackers.com; Av 6 near Calle 21; dm US$13, d without bathroom US$32; piWs)
This extremely popular hostel has 15 basic but clean dormitories and 13 doubles with shared bathrooms surrounding a spacious hammock-filled garden and a free-form pool. Two bars, a restaurant and ambient chill-out music enhance the inviting, laid-back atmosphere. Other benefits include a communal kitchen and TV lounge, free luggage storage, internet access, an onsite travel agency and low-cost airport transfers.
Casa RidgwayGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2233-6168, 2233-2693; www.casaridgwayhostel.com; cnr Calle 15 & Av 6A; incl breakfast dm US$15, s/d US$25/38, without bathroom US$22/34; p
nW)
This small, peaceful guesthouse on a quiet side street is run by the adjacent Friends’ Peace Center, a Quaker organization promoting social justice and human rights. There is a small lounge, a communal kitchen and a lending library filled with books about Central American politics and society. No smoking or alcohol is allowed, with quiet hours from 10pm to 6am.
Costa Rica GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2223-7034; www.costa-rica-guesthouse.com; Av 6 btwn Calles 21 & 25; incl breakfast d US$50, without bathroom US$39; piW)
This 1904 guesthouse has simple, graceful rooms with spacious bathrooms and hallways lined with Spanish tile. Furnishings are basic (creaky beds), but it’s a tranquil, couple-friendly spot. There’s a small internet lounge, an outdoor patio adorned with epiphytes and an enclosed parking area out back. Laundry service (per kilo US$2) is available.
Casa HildaGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2221-0037; c1hilda@racsa.co.cr; Av 11 btwn Calles 3 & 3A; s/d US$26/36)
Run by the charming Quesada family, this simple peach-colored guesthouse has five basic, clean rooms with private bathrooms surrounding a peaceful courtyard. Check out the natural spring in the center of the house that has been bubbling potable water for more than 90 years (even during dry season). Credit cards accepted.
oHotel AranjuezHOTEL
(
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; %2256-1825; www.hotelaranjuez.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; incl breakfast s US$37-52, d US$52-67, s/d without bathroom US$27/36; piW)
This rambling hotel in Barrio Aranjuez consists of five nicely maintained vintage homes that have been strung together with a labyrinth of gardens and connecting walkways. The 36 spotless rooms come in various configurations, all with lockboxes and cable TV. The hotel’s best attribute, however, is the lush garden patio, where a legendary breakfast buffet is served every morning.
Though the architecture can be a bit creaky and the walls thin, the service is efficient and the hotel is a solid, family-friendly option. Rooms in the new apartment-building annex half a block away lack the charm and sense of community of the main hotel, but annex guests still have access to the bounteous breakfast and pleasant common areas across the street.
Raya Vida VillaGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2223-4168; www.rayavida.com; Calle 15, off Av 11; s/d incl breakfast US$85/95, extra person US$20; pW)
This long-running B&B, housed in an elegant hilltop villa originally designed as the Spanish ambassador's residence, reflects owner Michael Long’s interest in art and antiques. Four well-appointed rooms have polished-wood floors, bright floral linens and expansive bathrooms. Aesthetically pleasing touches include a patio with a fountain, a fireplace, a small garden, and an upstairs deck with pleasant city views.
Hotel Posada del MuseoGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2258-1027; www.hotelposadadelmuseo.com; cnr Calle 17 & Av 2; s US$50-73, d US$68-100; iW)
Managed by an amiable, multilingual Argentine couple, this architecturally intriguing, 1928-vintage inn is diagonally across from the Museo Nacional. French doors line the entrances to each of the rooms, no two of which are alike. Some rooms accommodate up to four people, making this a family-friendly option. Light sleepers, take note: the hotel is adjacent to the train tracks.
Kaps PlaceGUESTHOUSE
(
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; %2221-1169; www.kapsplace.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; incl breakfast s US$25-50, d US$50-60, tr US$60-70, apt US$90-130; piW)
On a residential street in Barrio Aranjuez, this homey guesthouse has 24 rooms of various configurations spread over two buildings. Guests have access to patios decorated in colorful mosaics, three shared kitchens, a games room with ping-pong, pool and foosball tables, a big-screen TV lounge with huge DVD library, and free phone calls to 60 countries.
Hotel Santo TomásHOTEL
(
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; %2255-0448; www.hotelsantotomas.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 3 & 5; r incl breakfast US$64-88; pniWs)
A Barrio Amón landmark that once belonged to the Salazar family of cafetaleros, this stately early-20th-century colonial-style mansion oozes history. Slightly frayed rooms with high ceilings and period furnishings occupy the mansion itself, while a back annex offers more modern amenities. The garden courtyard contains a swimming pool with tiled water slide, Jacuzzi and small open-air gym.
Hemingway InnHOTEL
(
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; %2257-8630, 2221-1804; www.hemingwayinn.com; cnr Calle 9 & Av 9; incl breakfast s US$40-68, d US$57-85; W)
This funky little spot in Barrio Amón offers 17 simple, comfortable and unique rooms in a rambling cafetalero house dating to the 1920s. The garden, shared kitchen and wall murals lend the inn a relaxed and friendly ambience, and room prices include a full made-to-order breakfast. As a rare perk, pets can be accommodated with prior notice.
Bells' Home HospitalityHOMESTAY
(%2225-4752; www.homestay-thebells.com; s/d incl breakfast US$35/60)
This recommended agency is run by the bilingual Marcela Bell, who has operated the business for more than 20 years. She can arrange stays in more than a dozen homes around San José, each of which has been personally inspected and all of which are close to public transportation. Airport pickup is also available.
Hotel ColonialHOTEL
(
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; %2223-0109; www.hotelcolonialcr.com; Calle 11 btwn Avs 2 & 6; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$68/80/113; p
aiWs)
An intricately carved baroque-style carriage door and an arched poolside promenade usher guests into this 1940s Spanish-style inn. The 16 rooms and one suite are either whitewashed or painted an earthy mustard-yellow color, with dark wood furnishings and bright bedspreads. Those on higher floors have sweeping views of the city and outlying mountains, while three ground-level rooms are wheelchair-accessible.
Hotel KekoldiHOTEL
(
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; %2248-0804; www.kekoldi.com; Av 9 btwn Calles 5 & 7; s/d/tr from US$62/73/85; W)
This airy art deco building in Barrio Amón has 10 high-ceilinged rooms of various sizes, painted in light shades of pastel and equipped with cable TV. The best ones facing the street or back yard are drenched in natural light; interior rooms are less appealing. Common spaces include a cheerful breakfast room and a garden for lounging.
Hotel Rincón de San JoséHOTEL
(
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; %2221-9702; www.hotelrincondesanjose.com; cnr Av 9 & Calle 15; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from US$62/65/85/113`; iW)
Comprising four houses of varying ages in Barrio Otoya, this tidy spot has 42 guest rooms – ranging from rather faded older units to modern ones with bright linens and ceramic tile. Breakfast is served in an attractive interior garden courtyard, and there's a small sun terrace with nice views of surrounding houses and distant mountains.
Casa AlfiHOTEL
(
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; %2221-2102; www.casaalfihotel.com; Calle 3 btwn Avs 4 & 6; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$43/62/77; iW)
Steps from the Teatro Nacional, this simple two-story structure comprises nine guest rooms – each with TV, telephone, private bathroom and lockbox – surrounding a covered courtyard. Friendly and well-traveled owner Alfi offers guests three breakfast choices: continental, tropical or traditional Costa Rican.
Hotel Fleur de Lys HOTEL
(
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; %2223-1206; www.hotelfleurdelys.com; Calle 13 btwn Avs 2 & 6; incl breakfast s US$78-98, d US$86-106, junior ste/master ste US$126/156; pniW)
Pristinely maintained, this century-old, bright-pink Victorian mansion houses 31 spotless wood-paneled rooms with firm beds, ceiling fans and wicker furnishings. A small onsite bar hosts a daily happy hour and, on special occasions, live music. The staff are attentive and the location central (note the proximity of the train tracks). German, French and English are spoken; credit cards accepted.
Gran Hotel Costa RicaHOTEL
(
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; %2221-4000; www.granhotelcostarica.com; Calle 3 btwn Avs Central & 2; incl breakfast d standard/superior/deluxe $96/119/141, master ste/presidential ste $198/299; naiW)
Constructed in 1930, the city’s first prominent hotel is recognized as a national landmark (John F Kennedy and soccer legend Pelé both stayed here). Frequent renovations keep the 107 rooms modern and comfortable, though they retain period touches such as brass bed frames and wood furnishings. The popular terrace bar-restaurant out front features live piano music on weekday evenings.
Some rooms have wonderful views of the Teatro Nacional, and here and there are subtle architectural reminders of the hotel’s history: exposed beams, molded ceilings and the dramatic entrance hall – lined with vintage photographs of San José.
Hotel Don CarlosHOTEL
(
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; %2221-6707; www.doncarloshotel.com; Calle 9 btwn Avs 7 & 9; incl breakfast s US$85-96, d $96-107; piWs)
Built around an early-20th-century house that once belonged to President Tomás Guardia, this welcoming Barrio Amón inn exudes a slightly campy colonial-era vibe. Thirty-three rooms are nestled around a faux-pre-Columbian sculpture garden with a sundeck, jacuzzi and small kiddie-depth pool. All rooms have cable TV, lockbox and hair dryer; upstairs units are generally nicer than the mustier ones downstairs.
Don’t miss the Spanish-tile mural, just outside the onsite restaurant, which beautifully depicts central San José in the 1930s. Credit cards accepted.
La Sabana & Surrounds
You’ll find everything from hostels to vintage B&Bs in the neighborhoods that surround Parque Metropolitano La Sabana.
Gaudy’sHOSTEL
(
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; %2248-0086; www.backpacker.co.cr; Av 5 btwn Calles 36 & 38; dm US$13-17, s/d without bathroom US$22/34, r with bathroom US$38-39; piW)
Popular among shoestring travelers for years, this homey hostel inside a sprawling modernist house northeast of Parque La Sabana has 13 private rooms and two dormitories. The Colombian owners keep the design scheme minimalist and the vibe mellow, with professional service and well-maintained rooms. There’s a communal kitchen, a TV lounge, a pool table and a courtyard strung with hammocks.
Mi Casa HostelHOSTEL
(
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; %2231-4700; www.micasahostel.com; incl breakfast dm US$13, r with/without bathroom from US$34/30; piW)
This converted modernist home in La Sabana has polished-wood floors, vintage furnishings and 15 eclectic guest rooms to choose from, including one 10-person dorm and another room that's wheelchair-accessible. Mellow communal areas are comfortably furnished, and the shared kitchen is clean and roomy. There is a pleasant garden, a pool table, free internet, and laundry service.
Rosa del PaseoHOTEL
(
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; %2257-3225, 2257-3258; www.rosadelpaseo.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 28 & 30; s/d/ste from $75/85/90; piW)S
Don’t let the Paseo Colón location and the small facade fool you: this sprawling Victorian-Caribbean mansion (built in 1910 by the Montealegre family of coffee exporters) has 18 rooms reaching way back into an interior courtyard far from the city noise. The hotel still maintains the original tile floors and other historic details, including antique oil paintings and sculptures.
Rooms are simple, with polished-wood floors and period-style furnishings. There's a wonderful front sitting room where guests can listen to vintage vinyl discs on the phonograph, and the garden, where breakfast is served each morning, is filled with heliconias and bougainvilleas. Credit cards accepted.
Colours Oasis ResortHOTEL
(
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; %2296-1880, in USA & Canada 866-517-4390; www.coloursoasis.com; cnr Triángulo de Pavas & Blvr Rohrmoser; s/d/ste from US$78/89/157; Ws)
This longtime LGBT-friendly hotel occupies a sprawling Spanish-colonial-style complex in the elegant Rohrmoser district (northwest of La Sabana). Rooms and mini-apartments have modern furnishings and impeccable bathrooms. Facilities include TV lounge, mini-gym, pool, sundeck and Jacuzzi, as well as an onsite bar-restaurant, ideal for evening cocktails. The bilingual owners offer helpful insights on gay travel in Costa Rica.
Apartotel La SabanaHOTEL
(
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; %2220-2422; www.apartotel-lasabana.com; d/apt/f incl breakfast from US$78/93/137; paiWs)
This lovely, well-maintained apartment complex 150m north of Rostipollos has 32 units in various configurations that draw long-term business travelers as well as families. Apartments (with and without kitchen) are accented with wood furnishings and folk art. The interior courtyard has a nice pool, and free shuttle service is offered both from and to the airport. Special rates are available for weekly stays.
oHotel Grano de OroBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; d US$170-289, f/garden/vista-del-oro ste US$300/345/515; pniW)
It's easy to see why honeymooners love it here. Built around a sprawling early-20th-century Victorian mansion, this elegant inn has 39 demure ‘Tropical Victorian’ rooms furnished with wrought-iron beds and rich brocade linens. A few rooms even boast private courtyards with gurgling fountains, while the public areas sparkle with fresh tropical flowers and polished-wood accents.
If you want to experience the Costa Rica of a gilded age, this would be the place to do it.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Locals use several prominent landmarks when giving directions, including Spoon restaurant, the Fuente de la Hispanidad fountain and Más x Menos supermarket.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
oHostel BekuoHOSTEL
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; %1-813-343-8877, 2234-1091; www.hostelbekuo.com; dm US$11, d from US$29; W)
For pure positive energy, you won't find a nicer hostel anywhere in San José. This restful spot, 100m south of Av Central and 325m west of Spoon, feels extremely homey, thanks to frequent backyard barbecues, spontaneous pitchers of free sangría, a living room with piano and guitar and a kitchen equipped with good knives, appliances and an inviting central workspace.
The airy modernist structure has nine unique and colorful rooms with high-quality beds and mattresses (including four dormitories, one reserved especially for women), along with large tiled bathrooms, an expansive TV lounge dotted with bean bags, and an interior courtyard slung with hammocks. Well-traveled owner Brian Van Fleet and his staff go the extra mile for guests, with colorful and well-conceived information displays and evening outings designed to show visitors the best of San José's nightlife. Yet this remains a place where you can get a good night's sleep; silent time is respected from 11pm onwards.
Hostel UrbanoHOSTEL
(
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; %2281-0707; www.hostelurbano.com; dm US$13, d with/without bathroom US$38/32)
Within easy walking distance of the university and its associated nightlife, yet right on the bus line into downtown San José, this immaculate new hostel in a 1950s home opposite Parque Kennedy in San Pedro makes guests feel instantly welcome with its open floor plan, spacious back yard, pool table, modern internet facilities and a kitchen-dining area that's nice enough to host a dinner party.
Smaller rooms, which are often rented out as private doubles, are also ideal for groups of three or four friends traveling together. Even the larger 12- and 16-bed dorms manage not to feel claustrophobic, thanks to the thoughtful placement of well-constructed modern bunks.
Hostel Casa YosesHOSTEL
(
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; %2234-5486; www.casayoses.com; Av 8 near Calle 41; incl breakfast dm US$13, d with/without bathroom US$38/32; piW)
Perched on a Los Yoses hillside, this mellow HI-affiliated hostel offers 10 stylish, simple and spotless rooms (six of them dorms) with parquet wood floors. Shared amenities include big-screen computers, a guest kitchen, foosball and pool tables, a barbecue area and a Jacuzzi tub in one of the shared bathrooms. The young Tico owners speak Spanish, English and French.
Hotel MilviaB&B
(
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; %2225-4543; www.hotelmilvia.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$67/78/85; iW)
Owned by a well-known Costa Rican artist and former museum director, this lovely Caribbean-style building offers a homey retreat from the city. Nine eclectic rooms, all dotted with bright artwork, surround a pleasant courtyard with trickling fountain. An upstairs terrace provides views of the mountains. It's in San Pedro, 250m east, 100m north and 100m east of Más x Menos.
Hotel Ave del ParaísoHOTEL
(
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; %2283-6017; hotelavedelparaiso.com; s/d incl breakfast US$68/79; iW)
Decorated with beautiful mosaic tiles (right down to the backyard recycling area), this hotel run by an artsy Polish-Tico family is set back from the busy street just far enough to permit a good night's sleep. It's very convenient to the university (just a two-minute walk north) as well as the wonderful Café Kracovia, owned by the same family.
Hotel 1492 Jade y OroB&B
(
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; %2225-3752, 2256-5913; www.hotel1492.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 29 & 33; incl breakfast s US$57, d US$68-79; pW)
On a quiet Barrio Escalante side street you’ll find this 10-room B&B in a Spanish-style house built in the 1940s by the Volio family. The rooms vary in size, but all are nicely accented, with Portuguese tilework and some original furnishings. Breakfast is served in a charming rear garden.
Hotel Le BergeracBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %2234-7850; www.bergerachotel.com; Calle 35 btwn Avs Central & 8; d standard/superior/deluxe/grande incl breakfast US$110/132/160/177; piW)
This Los Yoses standard-bearer features 25 rooms, most with private garden patio, in a whitewashed building tranquilly removed from the main street. Though sizes and configurations vary, all rooms are comfortable and sunny, accented with wood floors and floral bedspreads, and equipped with immaculate bathroom, cable TV, telephone and safe. There is an onsite restaurant with a full bar.
A COSTA RICAN ART COLONY
If you work in the arts and want to spend some time in Costa Rica, the Julia and David White Artists’ Colony (%2249-1414; www.forjuliaanddavid.org; studio apt for 2 weeks from US$575; s) offers the perfect refuge. Located 16km west of Escazú, the 5-hectare compound in the hills surrounding Ciudad Colón comes equipped with a swimming pool, hiking trails and comfortable studios.
Escazú
Escazú is a stylish area with accommodations ranging from sleek boutique inns to homey B&Bs – but there's not much for the budget traveler. Street addresses aren’t always given; call directly or check hotel websites for directions (which are invariably complicated).
Three kilometers west of Escazú is the affluent expat suburb of Santa Ana. On the road between the two, you'll find a few out-of-the-way spots to stay.
Costa Verde InnINN
(
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; %2228-4080, in USA 1-800-773-5013; www.costaverdeinn.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast $60/70/80, d apt from $90; piWs)
This homey stone inn is surrounded by gardens that contain a hot tub, a mosaic-tile swimming pool, a BBQ area and a sundeck with wi-fi. Fourteen rooms of various sizes have king-size beds, comfy rocking chairs and folk-art accents. Five apartments come with fully equipped kitchen. A generous Tico breakfast is served on the outdoor terrace. Weekly rates are available.
Posada El QuijoteB&B
(
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; %2289-8401; www.quijote.cr; Calle del Llano; d standard/superior/deluxe/studio apt incl breakfast US$85/95/105/115; pnaW)
This Spanish-style hillside posada in Bello Horizonte rates as one of the area's top B&Bs. Homey standard rooms have wood floors, throw rugs, cable TV and hot-water bathrooms; superior and deluxe units have a patio or a private terrace. Guests are invited to take a nip at the honor bar, then soak up sweeping Central Valley views on the patio.
Villa EscazúB&B
(
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; %2289-7971; www.hotels.co.cr/villaescazu; d incl breakfast US$49-65; pW)
This wooden chalet with wraparound veranda is surrounded by gardens and fruit trees. The two quaint, wood-paneled rooms feature local artwork, comfy couches and a shared bathroom. Breakfast is served on the outdoor balcony. A fully equipped studio and apartment are also available (from US$250 per week). Two-night minimum stay; reserve well in advance. It's 900m west of Banco Nacional.
oCasa de las TíasB&B
(
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; %2289-5517; www.casadelastias.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$102/113/124, junior ste US$124-135; pnW)
In a quiet area of San Rafael, this yellow-and-turquoise Cape Cod–style house (complete with picket fence) has five immaculate, individually decorated rooms, all with private bathrooms. The house is adorned with crafts that friendly, helpful owners Xavier and Pilar have picked up on their travels in Latin America, lending the place a cozy, intimate feel.
Out of BoundsB&B
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; %2288-6762; www.bedandbreakfastcr.com; Carretera John F Kennedy; d standard/junior/deluxe/ste incl breakfast US$102/108//130/141; paW)
This friendly, contemporary inn 1km west of Costa Rica Country Club has five simple rooms with blond-wood floors; large, comfortable beds; painted sinks with folk-art motifs; mini-refrigerators and in-room coffeemakers. Two units come with air-con and two are wheelchair-accessible. A broad outdoor deck with pleasant views is stocked with rocking chairs for lounging.
Casa CristalINN
(
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; %2289-2530, in USA 786-206-1506; www.casacristalcr.com; d standard/master/superior incl breakfast US$112/158/202; pnaWs)
This chic, whitewashed Bello Horizonte hotel boasts an incomparable setting: at the end of a winding mountain road, on a hillside overlooking several dozen hectares of uninhabited parkland, with San José's twinkling lights in the distance. Most of the eight individually decorated contemporary guest rooms (some with Jacuzzi tubs) have floor-to-ceiling windows affording uninterrupted Central Valley views. No children under 12.
Beacon Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
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; %2228-3110, in USA 1-866-978-6168; www.beaconescazucostarica.com; Av 30 btwn Calles 138 & 140; d incl breakfast US$179-299; paiWs)
This stylish 27-room inn at the heart of Escazú Centro comes stocked with all manner of luxury goodies: high-thread-count linens, down comforters, king-size beds, plush robes, in-room coffeemakers and even a pillow menu. Room decor is contemporary Spanish Mediterranean, with amenities such as an onsite gym, spa, wine bar and courtyard with a pool. Check the website for substantial online discounts.
VOLUNTEERING IN SAN JOSé
For travelers who want an experience beyond vacation, there are dozens of not-for-profit organizations in San José that gladly accept volunteers.
Central American Service ExpeditionsVOLUNTEERING
(%8839-0515; www.serviceexpeditions.com)
A Costa Rican nonprofit that creates custom volunteer expeditions for families and teens, focused on sustainability.
GeoVisionsVOLUNTEERING
(%1-203-453-5838, in USA 1-855-875-6837; www.geovisions.org)
An international nonprofit that places volunteers in Costa Rican schools and medical facilities.
Sustainable HorizonVOLUNTEERING
(%1-732-410-5677, in USA & Canada 1-866-273-2500; www.sustainablehorizon.com)
Arranges a wide variety of volunteer trips, including opportunities to help out at children’s shelters.
United PlanetVOLUNTEERING
(%1-617-267-7763, in USA & Canada 1-800-292-2316; www.unitedplanet.org)
Places volunteers in orphanages, day-care centers and health-care positions.
5Eating
From humble corner stands dishing out gut-filling casados to contemporary bistros serving fusion everything, in cosmopolitan San José you will find the country’s best restaurant scene. Dedicated eaters should also check out the dining options in Los Yoses and San Pedro, as well as Escazú.
Top-end restaurants tend to get busy on weekend evenings; make a reservation.
Central San José East
Long-standing neighborhood sodas (lunch counters) mix effortlessly with contemporary cafes and Asian-fusion eateries on San José’s eclectic east side.
Supermarkets include Automercado (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2233-5511; www.automercado.co.cr; cnr Calle 3 & Av 3; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun), with a good selection of cheeses, produce, liquor, coffee and chocolate, and economical Perimercado (
MAP
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; %2222-2252; Calle 3 btwn Avs Central & 1; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun), conveniently located downtown.
oCafé de los DeseosCAFE
(
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; %2222-0496; www.facebook.com/Cafedelosdeseos; Calle 15 btwn Avs 9 & 11; mains US$5-12; h2-10pm Tue-Sat)
Abuzz with artsy young bohemians, this cozy, colorful Barrio Otoya cafe makes a romantic spot for drinks (from wine to cocktails to smoothies), bocas (handmade tortillas with Turrialba cheese, salads, teriyaki chicken, individual pizzas), and tempting desserts. Walls are hung with the work of local artists and rooms are adorned with hand-painted tables, beaded curtains and branches entwined with fairy lights.
Alma de CaféCAFE
(
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; %2010-1119; www.almadecafe.net; Teatro Nacional; mains US$5-10; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
One of the most beautiful cafes in the city, this atmospheric spot evokes early-20th-century Vienna. In other words, a perfect place to sip cappuccino, enjoy a crêpe or quiche and take in the lovely ceiling frescoes.
Delicias del PerúPERUVIAN, COSTA RICAN
(
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; Calle 3A btwn Avs 7 & 9; mains US$7-12; h11am-4pm)
Service with a smile and tasty seafood are the specialties at this friendly neighborhood soda near the heart of town. Lighter appetites can indulge in steaming bowls of parihuela (Peruvian-style seafood soup) made with corvina (sea bass) or mariscos (mixed seafood), while bigger eaters will appreciate the delicious garlic shrimp and the reasonably priced casados (US$6.50).
Restaurante La CriollitaCOSTA RICAN
(
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; %2256-6511; Av 7 btwn Calles 7 & 9; breakfast from US$5, casados US$8-10; h6:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat)
This homey local spot, popular with office types, dishes out a changing menu of simple Costa Rican specialties, such as stewed chicken or grilled fish. The setting is pleasant and the service efficient, and you can accompany your meal with a glass of Chilean or Spanish wine (US$3).
Restaurante ShaktiVEGETARIAN
(
MAP
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; %2222-4475; cnr Av 8 & Calle 13; mains US$5-10; h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; 
v)
This informal neighborhood health-food outpost has simple, organic-focused cooking as well as freshly baked goods. Favorites include veggie burgers, along with various fish and chicken dishes, but most people come for the vegetarian plato del día – only US$6 for soup, salad, main course and fruit drink (US$8 with coffee and dessert thrown in)!
VishnuVEGETARIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-6063; www.vishnucr.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 1 & 3; mains US$4-9; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; v)
You’ll find a rainbow of fresh local produce, vegetable stews and well-rendered soy burgers at this informal chain of vegetarian cheapies. Most folks pile in for the reasonably priced lunch specials (US$7), which generally include salad, fresh juice and dessert. There are a few vegan specialties as well. Vishnu has several branches dotted around downtown.
oCafé MundoITALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-6190; cnr Av 9 & Calle 15; mains US$8-36; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11:30pm Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat; v)
Location. Location. Location. This longtime Italian cafe and expat favorite has it. Set on a sprawling terrace in a vintage Barrio Otoya mansion, it’s a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and good (if not earth-shattering) pizzas and pastas within sight of a splashing outdoor fountain. At lunchtime on weekdays, don't miss the good-value plato del día (US$8).
Nuestra TierraCOSTA RICAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2258-6500; cnr Av 2 & Calle 15; mains US$6-22; h6am-midnight; c)
Touristy but fun, this bustling eatery maintains a calculatedly rustic atmosphere, with picnic-style tables, taxidermied bull’s heads and strings of metal cups dangling from the rafters. Cheery waiters deliver well-prepared if sometimes overpriced Tico food, from tasty pork tamales to wooden platters piled with heaping casados. A fine spot for lunch and sangria after a visit to the nearby museums.
Don WangCHINESE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2233-6484, 2223-5925; www.donwangrestaurant.com; Calle 11 btwn Avs 6 & 8; mains US$8-18; h11am-3:30pm & 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; vc)
This hopping Cantonese eatery is an ideal place for dim sum – served all day every day – as well as a long list of Chinese specialties, from stir-fried shrimp with cashews to mu shu vegetables (there are more than a dozen veggie dishes to choose from). Parents will love the children’s play area in the corner – ideal for restless toddlers.
oLa Esquina de Buenos AiresARGENTINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-1909; laesquinadebuenosaires.com; cnr Calle 11 & Av 4; mains US$15-29; h11:30am-3pm & 6-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 12:30-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun; v)
Spanish-tile floors, white linens and the sound of old tangos evoke the atmospheric bistros of San Telmo, as does the menu, featuring grilled Argentine cuts of steak, house-made empanadas (turnovers stuffed with meat or cheese) and an extensive selection of fresh pastas in exquisite sauces. The excellent South American–centric wine list, attentive service and flickering candlelight make this an ideal place for a date. Reservations recommended.
oKalú Café & Food ShopINTERNATIONAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-2081; www.kalu.co.cr; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; mains US$15-21; hnoon-7pm Mon & Tue, noon-10pm Wed-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat; v)
Sharing a sleek space with Kiosco SJO in Barrio Amón, chef Camille Ratton's exceptional back-patio cafe serves a global fusion menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and unconventional delights such as the fish taco trio filled with mango-glazed salmon, red curry prawns and macadamia-crusted tuna. Don't miss the mind-meltingly delicious cheesecake, served with fresh strawberries stewed in balsamic.
Restaurante Tin-JoASIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-7605; www.tinjo.com; Calle 11 btwn Avs 6 & 8; mains US$11-19; h11:30am-2:30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-2:30pm & 6-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun; v)
The interiors of this popular Asian standard-bearer are a riot of pan-Asian everything, just like the menu. Expect a wide range of fare from various regions – from kung pao shrimp to spicy tuna maki to pad thai – as well as an extensive vegetarian menu.
Otoya 1155ITALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-3636; Av 9 btwn Calles 11 & 13; mains US$14-20; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
At this intimate Italian restaurant in a 19th-century Barrio Otoya mansion behind Casa Amarilla, a series of elegant rooms, including an open-air 2nd-floor terrace, create a casual, romantic backdrop for cocktails, Italian wines and a short but sweet chalkboard menu that includes homemade pasta and gelato. On the downside, portions run small, and the food is less spectacular than the setting.
Central San José West
The city’s hectic commercial heart has some of the cheapest eats in town. One of the best places for a budget-priced lunch is the Mercado Central, where you’ll find a variety of sodas serving casados, tamales, seafood and everything in between.
Mariscos PoseidonSEAFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Mercado Central Annex; mains US$5-12; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The congenial Doris runs this narrow, blue-and-yellow seafood joint in the central market’s northern annex. The ceviche mixto appetizer (fish, shrimp and octopus marinated in lime juice) is tasty and cheap, as are the generous portions of seafood-studded rice.
La Sorbetera de Lolo MoraDESSERTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-5000; Mercado Central; desserts US$2-5; h9:30am-5:45pm Mon-Sat)
Head to the main market for dessert at this century-old local favorite that serves up fresh sorbet and cinnamon-laced frozen custard. Do as the locals do and order barquillos (cylindrical sugar cookies that are perfect for dipping).
Pastelería MerayoBAKERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-5758; Calle 16 btwn Paseo Colón & Av 1; pastries US$1-2; h7am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)
This informal pastry shop has a wide variety of freshly baked, cavity-inducing goodies. The coffee is strong and it’s a sweet way to pass the time if you’re waiting for a bus at the Coca-Cola terminal.
Q CaféCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-0707; 2nd fl, cnr Av Central & Calle 2; mains US$8-17; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun)
A sleek, monochromatic cafe with excellent views of the ornate Correo Central building, this modern 2nd-story spot near the heart of San José's pedestrian zone is perfect for coffee drinks (including delicious iced mocha) and pastries. Try the empanadas, which go well with the cafe’s homemade hot sauce.
La Sabana & Surrounds
Supermarkets include Más X Menos (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2248-0968; www.masxmenos.co.cr; cnr Autopista General Cañas & Av 5; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; p), which means 'more for less', in case you were wondering, and Palí (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-5887; www.pali.co.cr; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 24 & 26; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; p).
Soda TapiaFAST FOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-6734; www.sodatapia.com; cnr Av 2 & Calle 42; mains US$4-10, desserts US$2-7; h6am-2am Mon-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat, 6am-1am Sun; pc)
An unpretentious ’50s-style diner with garish red-and-white decor, this place is perpetually filled with couples and families noshing on grilled sandwiches and generous casados. If you have the nerve, try the monstrous ‘El Gordo,’ a pile of steak, onions, cheese, lettuce and tomato served on Spanish bread. Save room for dessert: ice-cream and fruit sundaes are a specialty here.
Machu PicchuPERUVIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2255-1717; www.restaurantemachupicchu.com; Calle 32 btwn Avs 1 & 3; mains US$9-22; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; pWc)
This locally renowned Peruvian restaurant will do you right if you have a hankering for all things Andean. A popular spot for a leisurely Sunday lunch, it has an encyclopedic menu featuring Peruvian classics such as pulpo al olivo (octopus in olive sauce), ají de gallina (a nutty chicken stew) and causa (chilled potato terrines stuffed with shrimp and avocado).
Las MañanitasMEXICAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-5737; Calle 40 btwn Paseo Colón & Av 3; mains US$6-17; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat)
At this authentic Mexican place near the park, well-rendered specialties include tacos in sets of four – corn tortillas accompanied by chicken, steak, sea bass or carne al pastor (spiced pork). Fans of mole poblano (central Mexico's famous chili and chocolate sauce) will also want to try it here, as the restaurant's owner hails from Puebla.
oPark CaféEUROPEAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2290-6324; parkcafecostarica.blogspot.com; tapas US$6-15; h5:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat)
At this felicitous fusion of antique shop and French restaurant, Michelin-starred chef Richard Neat offers an exquisite degustation menu featuring smaller sampling plates (Spanish-tapas style) and a carefully curated wine list. The romantic, candlelit courtyard is eclectically decorated with Asian antiques imported by Neat's partner, Louise French. It's near Parque La Sabana's northeast corner (100m north of Rostipollos restaurant).
The tantalizing menu includes classic flavor combinations – carpaccio of beef with mustard dressing – alongside innovative offerings such as crab ravioli with asparagus and ginger cappuccino, crispy leg of duck with cucumber-mint salad or gorgonzola gnocchi with prune-stuffed pork fillet, all prepared with passion and flair by Neat himself. An eight-table limit enhances the intimate atmosphere.
Restaurante Grano de OroFUSION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; lunch mains US$15-29, dinner mains US$19-42; h7am-10pm)
Known for its Costa Rican–fusion cuisine, this stately, flower-filled restaurant is one of San José’s top dining destinations. The menu is laced with unique specialties such as sea bass breaded with toasted macadamia nuts or seared duck crowned with caramelized figs, and there's an encyclopedic international wine list. For dessert, don’t miss the coffee cream pie. Reservations recommended for dinner.
El ChicoteSTEAKHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2232-0936; www.elchicote.com; Av Las Américas; mains US$15-30; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat & Sun)
A pleasant family spot in Sabana Norte that draws carnivores for long Sunday lunches, El Chicote grills up beefy sirloins and serves them with black beans, fried bananas and steamy baked potatoes. If you don’t do red meat, there are plenty of chicken and seafood options as well. The six-page wine list is strong on Mediterranean and South American vintages.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Succulent Turkish sandwiches, Caribbean-style rondón (seafood gumbo), wood-fired pizzas – you can find every type of cuisine imaginable in this corner of the city. Just north of Los Yoses, Calles 33 and 35 in Barrio Escalante are prime foodie destinations, boasting several fine restaurants within a few city blocks.
Self-caterers can visit San Pedro's large, modern supermarket Más X Menos (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2225-0636; Av Central; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat, 7am-9pm Sun) or Los Yoses' Automercado (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2225-0361; Av Central btwn Calles 39 & 41; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun), with a good selection of healthy items, including veggie burgers.
Café KracoviaCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2253-9093; www.cafekracovia.com; snacks US$5-9, mains US$8-14; h10:30am-8pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Sat; W)
With several distinct spaces, from a lower-lit, intimate downstairs to an outdoor garden courtyard, this hip cafe has something for everyone. Contemporary artwork and a distinct university vibe create an appealing ambience for lunching on crêpes, wraps, pastries, salads and daily specials. It's 500m north of the Fuente de la Hispanidad traffic circle where San Pedro and Los Yoses converge.
GiacominBAKERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2224-3463; www.pasteleriagiacomin.com; Av Central; pastries from US$1.50; h8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat)
Obscured by the Automercadeo parking lot in Los Yoses is this 1960s pastry shop that some josefinos swear is the best in town. Here you’ll find delicious mushroom mini-pizzas, flaky croissants, cream puffs, truffles, petits-fours and what has to be Central America’s best arrollado de canela (cinnamon roll). The upstairs lounge and balcony make a tranquil spot for a cappuccino break.
oSofía Restaurante MediterráneoMEDITERRANEAN
(
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; %2224-5050; www.sofiamediterraneo.com; cnr Calle 33 & Av 1; mains US$8-22; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; v)
This hidden Barrio Escalante gem serves a superb mix of authentic Mediterranean specialties, including house-made hummus, dolmas, tortellini, grilled lamb and a rotating selection of daily specials, accompanied by sweet, delicate baklava for dessert. The restaurant doubles as a community cultural center where Turkish owner Mehmet Onuralp hosts occasional theme dinners featuring musicians, chefs and speakers from around the Mediterranean.
oRávi GastropubPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2253-3771; www.facebook.com/ravicostarica; cnr Calle 33 & Av 5; mains US$9-18; h11:30am-noon Tue-Sat)
New in 2013, this cool corner pub in Barrio Escalante is awash in bright murals, with seating in funky red booths, intimate back rooms or at the convivial bar stools up front. A menu of bocas, sandwiches, pizzas and more is served with craft brew on tap or homemade tropical-fruit sodas served in cute little Bell jars.
At lunchtime, pick from the rotating menu of nine appetizers and nine main dishes and throw in a homemade soda, all for US$10.
oOlioMEDITERRANEAN
(
MAP
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; %2281-0541; www.facebook.com/Restaurante.olio; cnr Calle 33 & Av 3; tapas from US$5, dishes US$10-20; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat; v)
This cozy, Mediterranean-flavored gastropub in a century-old brick building in Barrio Escalante serves a long list of tempting tapas, including divine hongos madrileños (stuffed mushrooms), goat-cheese croquettes, house-made pastas and garlic shrimp. The enticing drinks list includes homemade sangría and a decent selection of beers and wines. It's a romantic spot for a date, with imaginative, conversation-worthy quirks of decor and beautiful patrons.
Lolo'sPIZZA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2283-9627; pizzas US$12-22; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Fans of bohemian chic will appreciate this quirky pizzeria, hidden in a mustard yellow house (No 3396) along the railroad tracks north of Av Central in Barrio Escalante. The vibrantly colorful, low-lit interior, hung with an eclectic collection of plates and other knick-knacks, creates an artsy, romantic setting for sangria and pizzas fired up in the bright red oven out back.
MantrasVEGETARIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2253-6715; www.facebook.com/mantrasveggiecafe; Calle 35 btwn Avs 11 & 13; mains US$8-15; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Widely recognized as the best vegetarian restaurant in San José (if not all of Costa Rica), Mantras draws rave reviews from across the foodie spectrum for meatless main dishes, salads and desserts so delicious that it's easy to forget you're eating healthy. It's in Barrio Escalante.
Restaurant WhapinCARIBBEAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2283-1480; cnr Calle 35 & Av 13; mains US$12-28; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat)
For a taste of the Caribbean without leaving San José, try this corner spot in Barrio Escalante painted Rasta red, yellow and green. Steamy bowls of rondón (seafood gumbo), rice and red beans, and fish simmered in spicy coconut sauce go well with agua de sapo, a zesty sweet ginger drink. Don’t forget the fried plantains and, in season, the crisp breadfruit.
El BuhoVEGETARIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2224-6293; www.facebook.com/ElBuhoVegetariano; Av 5, 25m east of Calle 3; mains US$10-18; h11:30am-8pm Mon-Fri)
Drawing health food devotees from the nearby university and much further afield, this buzzing San Pedro eatery just off Calle de la Amargura serves a variety of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free treats, from eggplant croquettes to stir-fries, mushroom casseroles to passionfruit tarts.
Escazú
On Saturday, head down to the farmers market that's held along Av 2, just south of the park in Escazú Centro. There's also an organic farmers market on Wednesday, featuring produce as well as delectables such as cheese, honey and fish. Find it 1km south of Paco, across from the Red Cross building.
Self-caterers will find plenty of choice in Escazú's supermarkets. The best is the gigantic Automercado (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2588-1812; Atlantis Plaza, Calle Cortés, San Rafael; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun), but there's also Más X Menos (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2228-0954; Centro Comercial Escazú, Carretera John F Kennedy, San Rafael; h6:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6:30am-10pm Sun) and Supermercado Saretto. (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2228-0247; San Rafael; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
La Esquina ArgentinaARGENTINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2288-2811; cnr Av 30 & Calle 128; empanadas US$1.60, casados US$7; h7am-3pm)
This popular corner eatery sells piping-hot empanadas, breakfasts, casados, smoked meats and tasty mashed potatoes. The outdoor patio is a good spot to linger over a cup of coffee.
Chez ChristopheBAKERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2228-2512; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)
If you have a hankering for a coffee éclair, croque monsieur or a plain (but transcendent) croissant, linger here awhile. Waffles are reserved for Sunday, but every other day this authentic French bakery offers freshly baked breads and pastries, as well as espresso and a full breakfast and lunch menu. It's just south of Centro Comerical El Paco in San Rafael.
Soda Río de JaneiroCOSTA RICAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8811-5263; cnr Calle 132 & Av 32; mains US$6-10; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Located southeast of the Iglesia Escazú, this charismatic little soda decked out with bright-red tablecloths is frequently full. Typical Tico fare includes pork chops, chicken or fish accompanied by big jars of spicy, pickled vegetables. There’s a tiny aquarium of angelfish that you can watch while you wait for a seat.
Buena TierraORGANIC
(
MAP
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; %2288-0342; www.facebook.com/CafeOrganicoBuenaTierra; cnr Calle 134 & Av 34; mains US$6-8; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; v)
With tree-trunk tabletops and huge windows letting in fresh breezes, this cute, friendly cafe in Escazú Centro is a good place to detox. Only organic fruits, vegetables, rice and beans are used, while batidos (fruit shakes) are made with your choice of water, milk, goat's milk, yogurt or almond milk. The cafe also organizes a Wednesday-morning organic farmers market.
La Casona de LalyCOSTA RICAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2288-5807; cnr Av 26 & Calle 132; bocas $2-5, mains $6-15; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
At the heart of Escazú Centro, this much-loved restaurant-tavern specializes in country-style Tico fare. Locals and expats alike pack the joint for cheap, lip-smacking bocas, ice-cold beers and a soundtrack of merengue accompanied by the cackling of the owner’s pet birds, who inhabit the cages along the restaurant's west wall. Don't miss the delicious dados de queso (fried cheese cubes).
TiquiciaCOSTA RICAN
(%8828-1280, 2289-5839; www.miradortiquicia.com; bocas US$5-17, mains US$13-23; hnoon-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This long-running hilltop restaurant 5km south of Escazú Centro serves up bounteous platters, along with live folk music on weekends. Yes, the food is only so-so, but you’re not here to eat, you’re here to admire the extravagant views of the Central Valley. It’s tricky to find; call for directions or check the website for a map.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Whatever your poison, San José has plenty of venues to keep you lubricated.
Good spots for people-watching over a beer or a coffee include Café 1930 at the Gran Hotel Costa Rica, with unbeatable views of Teatro Nacional, the upstairs terrace at El Patio del Balmoral (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-1700; www.elpatiodelbalmoral.com; Av Central btwn Calles 7 & 9; mains US$9-27; h6am-10pm, terrace bar 4-10pm), overlooking the pedestrian walkway on Av Central, and Café de los Deseos in Barrio Otoya.
Chepe's artsiest, most sophisticated drinking venues are concentrated north and east of the center, in places like Barrio Amón and Barrio Escalante. For a rowdier, younger scene, head to Barrio La California (between downtown and Los Yoses) or the UCR university district. Calle 3 north of Av Central in San Pedro – locally known as Calle La Amargura (Sorrow St) – has the highest concentration of bars of any single street in the city, many of them packed with students even during daylight hours. Places come and go, but Terra U (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2283-7728; www.terrau.com; Calle La Amargura; h10am-2:30am Mon-Sat, 3pm-2:30am Sun) and Caccio’s (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.caccios.com; Calle de la Amargura) are longtime party spots here. The area gets rowdy in the wee hours.
San José also has a thriving club scene. From thumping electronica to hip-hop to salsa, merengue and reggaetón, Chepe’s clubs offer a galaxy of musical styles to help you get your groove on. Most spots open at around 10pm, but don’t truly get going until after midnight. Admission charges vary (generally US$5 to US$10) depending on the location, the DJ and the night. Places come and go with alarming regularity, so ask around before heading out.
Be safe. Enterprising thieves sometimes lurk around popular nightspots, waiting to relieve drunken party people of their wallets. When leaving a bar late at night, keep your wits about you and take a taxi.
Central San José East
Jungle FruitJUICE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8835-9222; Calle 7 btwn Calles Central & 1; juices US$1.50-3.50; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat)
A juice fiend's dream come true, this centrally located hole-in-the-wall serves up satisfying 16oz and 24oz juices and smoothies at prices that just might help you kick your Coca-Cola habit.
Café del BaristaCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cafedelbarista.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 9 & 11; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat)
This corrugated-roofed, warehouse-like space in Barrio Aranjuez brews up a great cup of gourmet coffee (and makes a halfway decent cinnamon roll too).
TalentumCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-6346; www.galeriatalentum.com; Av 11 btwn Calles 3 & 3A; h11:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat)
This vibrant, quirky new cultural space in a renovated mansion runs the gamut from cafe to art gallery. Sporting local artwork inside and out, with cozy seating on vintage couches and an outdoor deck, it's a fun place for a midday break. The ever-changing cultural agenda includes book signings, film and anatomical drawing classes and occasional live music.
oStiefelPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/StiefelPub; h6pm-1am Mon-Sat)
A dozen-plus Costa Rican microbrews on tap and an appealing setting in a historical building create a convivial buzz at this recently opened pub half a block from Plaza España. Grab a pint of Pelona or Maldita Vida, Praying Nun or Japi Ending; better yet, order a flight of four miniature sampler glasses and try 'em all!
Chelle’sBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-1369; cnr Av Central & Calle 9; h24hr)
If you’re drinking the night away with Ticos, you might find yourself here at 4am, clutching a cold one and professing your love for recent acquaintances. This venerable 24-hour soda doubles as one of Chepe's most atmospheric spots for a nightcap, with surly service and big buses careening around the corner outside, looking perilously close to crashing through the window.
El MorazánBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-5110; www.facebook.com/barmorazan; cnr Calle 9 & Av 3; cocktails US$5-7; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat)
Facing Parque Morazán, this exposed-brick, Spanish-tile-clad space dates back to 1904. Throughout its long life it has hosted all manner of historical figures (including Che Guevara, according to one account). It is a popular hangout among Chepe’s young artsy set. In addition to beer, there is a full menu of classic cocktails and snacks. On some nights, there is live music.
Bar MorazánBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-4622; 2nd fl, Calle 7 btwn Avs 1 & 3; h11am-2am)
Decidedly local, in the heart of the San José tourist belt, this humble little bar has reasonably priced drinks, a sports-betting window, a stack of TVs displaying the games and a supersized mural of dogs playing poker. Awesome.
La Concha de la LoraBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-0130; www.facebook.com/laconchalora; Calle 21 btwn Avs Central & 1; h8:30pm-2:30am Thu-Sat)
An enthusiastic young crowd packs in here nightly for foosball, ping pong, good bar snacks, DJs spinning everything from Latin music to Jimi Hendrix, and occasional live bands. Low cover charges (free to US$6) help maintain the upbeat mood.
Hoxton PubPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7168-1083; www.hoxtoncr.com; h6pm-2am Tue-Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun)
Tasty fish and chips, good cocktails, great music and a lively dance floor in a cool old Los Yoses mansion just east of Subaru.
El ObservatorioCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-0725; www.elobservatorio.tv; Calle 23 btwn Avs Central & 1; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)
This popular Barrio La California club stands out for its unusual mix of salsa, rock and stand-up comedy nights.
Craic Irish PubPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 2 & Calle 25A; h6pm-2am)
This popular pub in Barrio La California serves a wide variety of beers accompanied by burgers, fries and other bar snacks.
Centro Comercial El PuebloBAR, CLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-9434; hhours vary)
This Mediterranean-style outdoor mall in Barrio Tournon is a warren of bars, clubs and music venues. The proximity of one place to the next makes it ideal for a pub crawl and there's stringent security (though wee hours can get a bit unruly). Things get going around 9pm and can go as late as 7am. Best of all, there's no cover charge midweek.
Central San José West
Castro'sDJ
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-8789; cnr Av 13 & Calle 22)
Chepe's oldest dance club, this classic Latin American disco in Barrio México draws crowds of locals and tourists to its large dance floor with a dependable mix of salsa, cumbia and merengue.
GAY & LESBIAN VENUES
The city is home to Central America’s most thriving gay and lesbian scene. As with other spots, admission charges vary depending on the night and location (from US$5 to US$10). Some clubs close on various nights of the week (usually Sunday to Tuesday) and others host women- or men-only nights; inquire ahead or check individual club websites for listings.
Many clubs are on the south side of town, which can get rough after dark. Take a taxi.
La AvispaGAY & LESBIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-5343; www.laavispa.com; Calle 1 btwn Avs 8 & 10; h8pm-1am Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat, 5pm-3am Sun)
A gay establishment that has been in operation for more than three decades, La Avispa (the Wasp) has a bar, pool tables and a boisterous dance floor that’s been recommended by travelers. There are lesbian nights once or twice a month (including the last Friday of every month).
BochincheGAY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-0500; cnr Calle 11 & Av 10; h8pm-5am Wed-Sat)
A club that features everything from classic disco to electronica, as well as special themed nights. As this club is on the south side of town, it can get rough after dark.
Energy ClubGAY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/EnergyClubCR; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 28; hThu-Sun)
A recent arrival on Chepe's gay club scene, this place features Thursday singles nights, Friday drag shows, Saturday disco nights and Sunday-night strippers.
Pucho’s NightclubGAY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-1147; www.puchosnightclub.com; cnr Calle 11 & Av 8; hMon-Sat)
This gay male outpost is more low-rent (and significantly raunchier) than some; it features scantily-clad go-go boys and over-the-top drag shows.
La Sabana
RapsodiaLOUNGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2248-1720; www.rapsodiacr.com; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 40; h10pm-6am Fri & Sat)
This hyper-chic, see-and-be-seen club clad in white and gold has an extensive list of cocktails and a menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes and snacks. Guest DJs set the mood with a mix of electronica and other sounds every Friday and Saturday.
Club VertigoCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2257-8424; www.vertigocr.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; cover US$6-15; h10pm-dawn)
Located on the ground floor of the nondescript Centro Colón office tower, the city’s premier club packs in Chepe’s beautiful people with a mix of house, trance and electronica. Downstairs is an 850-person-capacity sweat-box of a dance floor; upstairs is a chill-out lounge lined with red sofas. Dress to the nines and expect admission charges to skyrocket on guest-DJ nights.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Roots Reggae BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2253-1953; www.facebook.com/rootscoolandcalm; Av 8; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
The dreadlocked set crowds this cool Los Yoses lounge bar that brings in DJs from as far afield as Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast. It's a sweet spot to get a beer and hang with reggae-loving locals. Find it between Calle 43 and Spoon.
Río BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2225-8371; Av Central; hnoon-midnight Sun-Tue, to 2am Wed-Sat)
Just west of Calle 43 and the Fuente de la Hispanidad (the official boundary between Los Yoses and San Pedro), this large, popular bar with an upstairs lounge has live bands on some nights and flat-screen TVs showing the current game. It’s a good spot to watch the rush-hour traffic crawl by in the company of an after-work crowd.
Un Lugar Resto-barBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2225-3979; www.facebook.com/barunlugar; Calle 33 btwn Avs 11 & 13; h11am-2am Mon-Sat)
This small wood-lined bar in Barrio Escalante serves as a neighborhood hangout that draws artsy types and young professionals for cold beer and bocas.
Escazú
If you’re looking to sip fine vintages, visit the stylish ground-floor wine bar at the Beacon Boutique Hotel, open 7pm to midnight.
Taberna ArenasBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2289-8256; cnr Av 30 & Calle 130; hfrom 4pm)
This delightful, old-fashioned Tico bar is an Escazú institution. Arenas has good bocas and a wide selection of domestic and imported beers. Owner Don Israel has his photo with various heads of state on the walls, along with the agricultural implements that are de rigueur in any country bar.
PubBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2288-3062; Av 26 btwn Calles 128 & 130; hfrom 11am)
This small, friendly American-owned pub has a list of more than two dozen international beers, a dozen local brews and a selection of shots with scary-sounding names like ‘Test Tube Baby’ and ‘Anti-Freeze'. Well-priced happy-hour drinks specials keep things hopping 6pm to 8pm every night except Friday, and a greasy bar menu is available to soak up the damage.
3Entertainment
Pick up La Nación on Thursday for listings (in Spanish) of the coming week’s attractions. The Tico Times ‘Weekend’ section (in English) has a calendar of theater, music and museum events. The free publication GAM Cultural (www.gamcultural.com) and the website San José Volando (www.sanjosevolando.com) are also helpful guides to nightlife and cultural events.
Cinemas
Many cinemas show recent Hollywood films with Spanish subtitles and an English soundtrack. Occasionally, films are dubbed over in Spanish (doblado or hablado en español) rather than subtitled; ask before buying a ticket. Movie tickets cost about US$4 to US$5, and generally Wednesday is cheaper. Check newspaper listings or individual theater websites for schedules.
There are bigger multiplexes in Los Yoses and San Pedro, while the most modern theaters are in Escazú.
Sala GarboCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-1034; www.salagarbocr.com; cnr Av 2 & Calle 28)
Art-house and classic films.
Centro de CineCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-0610, 2223-2127; www.centrodecine.go.cr; cnr Calle 11 & Av 9)
This rambling Victorian mansion houses the government-run film center, but festivals, lectures and events are held in outside venues; check the site for current events.
Cine MagalyCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-0085; www.facebook.com/CineMagaly; Calle 23 btwn Avs Central & 1)
Screens the latest releases in a large theater.
Multicines San PedroCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2283-5715, 2283-5716; www.ccmcinemas.com; 2nd fl, Mall San Pedro)
This popular multiplex has 10 screens showing the latest Hollywood flicks.
Cinemark CINEMA
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2201-5050; www.cinemarkca.com/multiplaza-escazu; Multiplaza Escazú)
This multi-screen complex in Escazú shows first-run movies.
Live Music
Centro Comercial El Pueblo has a number of spots that feature live Latin combos and rock bands – and everything in between.
oJazz CaféLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2253-8933; www.jazzcafecostarica.com; Av Central; cover US$6-10; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)
This San Pedro venue is the destination in San José for live music, with a different band every night. Countless performers have taken to the stage here, including legendary Cuban bandleader Chucho Valdés and Colombian pop star Juanes. Its sister club in Escazú (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2288-4740; north side of Autopista Próspero Fernández; hfrom 7pm) features a similar mix of local and international bands. Variable cover charges start around US$5.
oEl SótanoLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-2302; www.facebook.com/sotanocr; cnr Calle 3 & Av 11; h8pm-2am)
One of Chepe's most atmospheric new nightspots, Sótano is named for its cellar jazz club, where people crowd in for frequent performances including intimate Tuesday jam sessions; upstairs, a cluster of elegant high-ceilinged rooms in the same mansion have been converted to a gallery space, stage and dance floor where an eclectic mix of groups play regular live gigs.
El Cuartel de la Boca del MonteLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-0327; www.facebook.com/elcuartelcr; Av 1 btwn Calles 21 & 23; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight daily)
This atmospheric old Barrio La California bar has long drawn cheek-by-jowl crowds for live bands. Friday is a good night to visit, as is Monday, when women get free admission and the band cranks out a crazy mix of calypso, salsa, reggae and rock. It’s popular with university students, who arrive to flirt and drink and various combinations thereof.
Theater
There is a wide variety of theatrical options in San José, including some in English. Local newspapers, including the Tico Times, list current shows. Most theaters are not very large, so performances tend to sell out; get tickets as early as possible.
Teatro NacionalTHEATRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2010-1111; www.teatronacional.go.cr; Calles 3 & 5 btwn Avs Central & 2)
Costa Rica’s most important theater stages plays, dance, opera, symphony, Latin American music and other major events. The main season runs from March to November, but there are performances throughout the year.
Teatro Melico SalazarTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2295-6032; www.teatromelico.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 2)
The restored 1920s theater has regular fine-arts performances, including music, theater, ballet and other dance.
Auditorio NacionalCONCERT VENUE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-7647; www.museocr.com; Museo de los Niños, Calle 4)
A grand stage for concerts, dance, theater and plays, affiliated with the Centro Costarricense de Ciencia y Cultura. It's north of Av 9.
Teatro UniversitarioTHEATRE
(Teatro de Bellas Artes;
GOOGLE MAP
; %2511-6733; www.teatro.ucr.ac.cr)
On the southeast side of the UCR campus in San Pedro is the Teatro Universitario, which has a wide variety of programming, including works produced by the university’s fine-arts department.
Teatro Eugene O’NeillTHEATRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2207-7554; www.centrocultural.cr; Calle 37)
Has performances sponsored by the Centro Cultural Costarricense Norteamericano, a cultural center that promotes ties between Costa Rica and the United States. It's north of Av Central, in San Pedro.
Little Theatre GroupTHEATRE
(%8858-1446; www.littletheatregroup.org)
This English-language performance troupe has been around since the 1950s and presents several plays a year; call or go online to find out when and where the works will be shown.
Casinos
Gamblers will find casinos in several of the larger hotels. Most of these are fairly casual, but in the nicer spots it's advisable to ditch the T-shirts in favor of a button-down shirt as there may be a dress code. Gents: be advised that casinos are frequented by prostitutes, so be wary if you’re suddenly the most desirable person in the room.
Casino Club ColonialCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2258-2807; www.casinoclubcolonial.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 9 & 11; h24hr)
San José’s most elegant casino.
Casino del ReyCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2257-7800; www.delreyhotel.com; Hotel del Rey, cnr Calle 9 & Av 1; h24hr)
A jam-packed shocking-pink building offering everything from roulette to slot machines and what has to be the highest density of prostitutes in the city.
Sports
Bullfighting is popular and fights are held seasonally in the southern suburb of Zapote over the Christmas period. Members of the public (usually drunk) are encouraged to participate in the action (the bull isn’t killed in the Costa Rican version of the sport).
Estadio Nacional de Costa RicaSTADIUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parque Metropolitano La Sabana)
Costa Rica's graceful, modernist 35,000-seat national soccer stadium, constructed with funding from the Chinese government and opened to the public in 2011, is the venue for international and national Division-1 fútbol (soccer) games. Its predecessor, dating to 1924 and located in the same spot in Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, hosted everyone from Pope John Paul II to soccer legend Pelé to Bruce Springsteen over its 84-year history.
The Fine Woodcrafts of Barry Biesanz
Located in the hills of Bello Horizonte in Escazú, the workshop of Biesanz Woodworks (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2289-4337; www.biesanz.com; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) is one of the finest woodcrafting studios in the nation, run by celebrated artisan Barry Biesanz. His bowls and other decorative containers are exquisite and take their inspiration from pre-Columbian techniques, in which the natural lines and forms of the wood determine the shape and size of the bowl. The pieces are expensive (from US$135 for a palm-size bowl), but they are unique – and so delicately crafted that they wouldn’t be out of place in a museum.
7Shopping
Whether you’re looking for indigenous carvings, high-end furnishings or a plastic howler monkey, San José has no shortage of shops, running the gamut from artsy boutiques to tourist traps stocked full of tropical everything. Haggling is not tolerated in stores and shops (markets are the exception). In touristy shops, keep an eye peeled for ‘authentic’ woodworks that have ‘Made in Indonesia’ stamped on the bottom.
For the country’s finest woodcrafts, it is absolutely worth the trip to visit the Biesanz Woodworks workshop in Escazú.
oFeria Verde de AranjuezMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.feriaverde.org; h7am-noon Sat)
For a foodie-friendly cultural experience, don't miss this fabulous Saturday farmers market, a weekly meeting place for San José's artists and organic growers since 2010. You'll find organic coffee, artisanal chocolate, tropical-fruit popsicles, fresh produce, baked goods, leather, jewelry and more at the long rows of booths set up in the park at the north end of Barrio Aranjuez.
Galería NamuHANDICRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-3412, in USA 800-616-4322; www.galerianamu.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 5 & 7; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 1-4pm Sun Dec-Apr)
This fair-trade gallery brings together artwork and cultural objects from a diverse population of regional ethnicities, including Boruca masks, finely woven Wounaan baskets, Guaymí dolls, Bribrí canoes, Chorotega ceramics, traditional Huetar reed mats, and contemporary urban and Afro-Caribbean crafts. It can also help arrange visits to remote indigenous territories in different parts of Costa Rica.
Kiosco SJOARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2258-1829; www.kioscosjo.com; cnr Av 11 & Calle 7; hnoon-7pm Mon & Tue, noon-8pm Wed-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat)
With a focus on sustainable design by Latin American artisans, this sleek shop in Barrio Amón stocks handmade jewelry, hand-tooled leather boots and bags, original photography, artisanal chocolates, fashion and contemporary home decor by established regional designers. It’s pricey, but rest assured that everything you find here will be of exceptional quality.
eÑeARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-7681; laesquina13y7@gmail.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 13; h10am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)
This hip little design shop across from Casa Amarilla sells all manner of pieces crafted by Costa Rican designers and artists, including clothing, jewelry, handbags, picture frames, zines and works of graphic art.
Librería LehmannBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2522-4848; www.librerialehmann.com; Av Central btwn Calles 1 & 3; h8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)
Good selection of English-language books, maps and guidebooks (including Lonely Planet).
Mora BooksBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8383-8385; www.morabooks.com; Calle 5 btwn Avs 5 & 7; h11am-7pm)
Dog-eared paperbacks in English, Spanish, French and German teeter in precarious towers atop crammed shelves at this chaotic jumble of a used bookstore. The best place in town for stocking up on reading material for the road. Hours are hit and miss.
La CasonaMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle Central btwn Avs Central & 1; h9:30am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)
Step right up to the number-one tourist trap in Chepe! What you give up in authenticity you’ll make up for in convenience. Various stalls spread out over two floors stock T-shirts, banana-leaf paper journals and tree-frog stickers. Shop around, as some quality crafts can be found.
Mercado CentralMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Avs Central & 1 btwn Calles 6 & 8; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat)
This is the best and cheapest place in the city to buy just about anything, from hammocks (Hecho en Nicaragua) to pura vida T-shirts (made in China) to a vast assortment of forgettable knickknacks. For something decidedly more Costa Rican, export-quality coffee beans and cigars can be bought here at a fraction of the price you’ll pay in tourist shops.
Mercado ArtesanalMARKET
(Crafts Market;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Plaza de la Democracia, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15; h9am-6pm)
A touristy open-air market that sells everything from handcrafted jewelry and Bob Marley T-shirts to elaborate woodwork and Guatemalan sarongs.
Rincón del HabanoCIGARS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 7 btwn Avs Central & 1; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 9:30am-5:30pm Sun)
You’ll find a wide selection of cigars in this tiny shop. The international array of stogies includes brands from Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, Nicaragua and Cuba.
Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Mall San PedroMALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %2283-7516; http://tumallsanpedro.com)
This busy four-story mall (often used as a landmark) houses a multi-screen cinema, a food court, a video arcade and the usual mix of clothing, phone and other retailers. It's northwest of Fuente de la Hispanidad.
Escazú
Multiplaza EscazúMALL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun)
Costa Rica’s most stylish and massive shopping mall has everything you need (or don’t). If you’re coming from San José, the mall can be reached by taking any bus marked ‘Escazú Multiplaza’.
Orientation
San José’s center is arranged in a grid with avenidas (avenues) running east to west and calles (streets) running north to south. Av Central is the nucleus of the downtown area and is a pedestrian mall between Calles 6 and 9. The downtown has several loosely defined barrios (neighborhoods); those of greatest interest to tourists are north and east of Plaza de la Cultura, including Barrio Amón, Barrio Otoya, Barrio Aranjuez and Barrio La California. The central area is home to innumerable businesses, hotels and cultural sites, while the area immediately west of downtown is home to San José's central market and many of its bus terminals.
Slightly further west of downtown is La Sabana, named for its huge and popular park where many josefinos spend their weekends jogging, swimming, picnicking or attending soccer matches.
A few kilometers southwest is the affluent outer suburb of Escazú, really three neighborhoods in one: Escazú Centro with its peaceful central plaza and unhurried Tico ambience; the USA expatriate enclave of San Rafael, dotted with strip malls, top-end car dealerships, tract housing and chain restaurants; and San Antonio, a hillside mix of humble rural homes, sprawling estates and spectacular views.
East (and within walking distance) of the center are the contiguous neighborhoods of Los Yoses and San Pedro, the former a low-key residential area with some nice accommodations, the latter home to the tree-lined campus of the UCR, the country's most prestigious university. Marking the dividing line between Los Yoses and San Pedro is a traffic roundabout graced by a large fountain known as the Fuente de la Hispanidad (a frequently referenced local landmark). North of Los Yoses is Barrio Escalante, home to some of San José's trendiest bars and restaurants.
You can pick up a free map of the city at the tourist office.
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Though Costa Rica has the lowest crime rate of any Central American country, crime in urban centers such as San José is a problem. The most common offense is opportunistic theft (eg pickpocketing and mugging). Keep a streetwise attitude and follow the tips below.
Do not wear flashy jewelry.
Keep your camera in your bag when you are not using it.
Carry only as much cash as you’ll need for the day.
Unless you think you’ll need it for official business, leave your passport in the hotel safe; a photocopy will do for most purposes.
Be wary of pickpockets at crowded events and the areas around bus stops.
Never put your bag in the overhead racks on a bus.
Do not walk around alone at night, and stick to licensed taxis.
If you are renting a car, always park it in a secure, guarded lot, and never leave anything in it.
Men should be aware that prostitutes are known for their sleight-of-hand abilities, and that they often work in pairs.
Neighborhoods reviewed in this book are generally safe during the day, though you should be especially careful around the Coca-Cola bus terminal and the red-light district south of Parque Central, particularly at night. Be advised that adjacent neighborhoods can vary greatly in terms of safety; inquire locally before setting out.
Gridlocked traffic, gigantic potholes, noise and smog are unavoidable components of the San José experience. Most central hotels are subject to street noise, no matter how nice they are. Be skeptical of touts and taxi drivers who try to sell you tours or tell you that the hotel you’ve booked is a crime-infested bordello. Many of these folks will say anything to steer you to the places that pay them commissions.
Emergency
Fire (%118)
Red Cross (Cruz Roja Costariccense; %128, in San José 2542-5000; www.cruzroja.or.cr; Av 8 btwn Calles 14 & 16)
Traffic Police (Policía de Tránsito; %2222-9245, 2222-9330; www.transito.go.cr)
Medical Services
For serious medical emergencies, head to Hospital CIMA (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2208-1000; www.hospitalcima.com; Los Laureles) in San Rafael de Escazú, whose facilities are the most modern in the greater San José area.
Clínica Bíblica (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2522-1000, emergency 2522-1030; www.clinicabiblica.com; Av 14 btwn Calles Central & 1) The top private clinic downtown has a 24-hour emergency room; doctors speak English, French and German.
Hospital La Católica (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2246-3000; www.hospitallacatolica.com; Guadalupe) Pricey private clinic geared toward medical-tourism patients from abroad.
Hospital San Juan de Dios (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2547-8000; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 14) Free public hospital open 24 hours; expect long waits.
TOURIST POLICE
The establishment of a policía turística (tourist police) in 2007 has alleviated petty crimes against foreigners (you’ll see them patrolling in pairs around San José, on foot, bicycle and even on horseback). These officers can be helpful in the event of an emergency since most of them speak at least some English. But if you find yourself the victim of a crime, you’ll have to file a report in person at the Organismo de Investigacíon Judicial (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-5337, 2222-1365; Calle 17 btwn Avs 6 & 8; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in the Supreme Court of Justice building on the south side of downtown.
Post
Correo CentralPOST OFFICE
(Central Post Office;
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-9766; www.correos.go.cr; Calle 2 btwn Avs 1 & 3; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
In a gorgeous historic building near the center of town. Express and overnight services.
Tourist Information
CanaturTOURIST INFORMATION
(Cámara Nacional de Turismo; %2234-6222, 2440-1676; www.canatur.org; Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; h7am-10pm)
The Costa Rican National Chamber of Tourism provides information on member services from a small stand next to international baggage claim.
Instituto Costarricense de TurismoTOURIST INFORMATION
(ICT;
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-1090, in USA & Canada 866-267-8274; www.visitcostarica.com; Edificio de las Academias, Av Central btwn Calles 1 & 3; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
The government tourism office provides handy intercity bus schedules and free maps of San José and Costa Rica.
Getting There & Away
San José is the country’s transportation hub, and it’s likely that you’ll pass through the capital a number of times throughout your travels (whether you want to or not).
Air
All international flights leave from Juan Santamaría (SJO) airport outside Alajuela.
Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (%2437-2400; http://fly2sanjose.com) Handles all international flights and NatureAir domestic flights in its main terminal. Domestic flights on Sansa depart from the Sansa terminal.
Aeropuerto Tobías Bolaños (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2232-2820) In the San José suburb of Pavas; services private charter flights.
Buses from San José
Domestic Buses
International Buses
Bus
Bus transportation in San José can be bewildering. There is no public bus system and no central terminal. Instead, dozens of private companies operate out of stops scattered throughout the city. Many bus companies have no more than a stop (in this case pay the driver directly); some have a tiny office with a window on the street, while some operate from bigger terminals servicing entire regions. See below for a summary of the major terminals, a list of bus companies with their contact info, and a table showing prices and times for major destinations.
Note that bus schedules and prices change regularly. Pick up a copy of the free (but not always up-to-date) booklet Itinerario de Buses from San José's downtown tourist office, or download a PDF version from www.visitcostarica.com (most easily located in your search engine by typing 'Costa Rica Itinerario de Buses'). Buses are crowded on Friday evening and Saturday morning and packed to the gills at Christmas and Easter.
For buses that run infrequently, it is advisable to buy tickets in advance. For a hassle-free start to your trip, consider contacting A Safe Passage (%8365-9678, in USA 970-439-5446; www.costaricabustickets.com), which can purchase bus tickets in advance for a small fee. It also arranges airport transfers.
Bus Terminals
Collectively, the following four San José terminals serve Costa Rica's most popular destinations. Chances are you'll be passing through one or more of them during your trip. Be aware that thefts are common in many bus terminals. Stay alert, keep your valuables close to you and don’t stow anything important (such as passports and money) in the overhead racks or luggage compartment of a bus.
Gran Terminal del Caribe ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle Central) A roomy station north of Av 13; serves destinations on the Caribbean slope, with connections to Tortuguero.
Terminal Coca-Cola ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av 1 btwn Calles 16 & 18) A well-known, labyrinthine landmark; buses leave from the terminal and the four-block radius around it to points all over Costa Rica, including the Central Valley and the Pacific coast.
Terminal San Carlos (Terminal del Atlántico Norte; GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 9 & Calle 12) A small, rather decrepit terminal serving Monteverde, La Fortuna and southern Caribbean coastal destinations.
Terminal Tracopa On the south end of town; serves southern and southwestern destinations including Golfito, Quepos/Manuel Antonio and Paso Canoas on the Panama border.
Domestic Bus Companies
Autotransportes CaribeñosBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-7990, 2222-0610; www.grupocaribenos.com; Gran Terminal del Caribe, Calle Central)
Buses to northeastern destinations including Puerto Limón, Guápiles, Cariari, Siquirres and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. The Caribeños group encompasses several smaller companies (Empresarios Guapileños, Líneas del Atlántico etc), all of which share the same terminal and customer-service phone number.
Autotransportes MepeBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2257-8129; www.mepecr.com; Terminal San Carlos)
Buses to southern Caribbean destinations including Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Manzanillo, Bribrí and Sixaola.
Autotransportes San CarlosBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2255-0567, 2255-4300; Terminal San Carlos)
Buses to La Fortuna, Ciudad Quesada and Los Chiles.
Coopetrans AtenasBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2446-5767; www.coopetransatenas.com; Terminal Coca-Cola)
Buses to Atenas.
Empresa AlfaroBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-2666; www.empresaalfaro.com; Av 5 btwn Calles 14 & 16)
Buses to Nicoya, Nosara, Sámara, Santa Cruz and Tamarindo.
Empresarios UnidosBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-8231; cnr Av 12 & Calle 16)
Buses to San Ramón and Puntarenas.
Pulmitan de LiberiaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-1650; Calle 24 btwn Avs 5 & 7)
Buses to northwestern destinations including Cañas, Liberia, Playa del Coco and Tilarán. The Pulmitan group encompasses the smaller companies of Empresa La Cañera and Autotransportes Tilarán, both of which use Pulmitan's terminal.
Station WagonBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2441-1181; Av 2 btwn Calles 10 & 12)
Buses to Alajuela and the airport.
TracopaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-4214; www.tracopacr.com; Terminal Tracopa, Calle 5 btwn Avs 18 & 20)
Buses to southwestern destinations including Ciudad Neily, Dominical, Golfito, Manuel Antonio, Palmar Norte, Paso Canoas, Quepos, San Isidro del General, San Vito and Uvita. Tracopa encompasses the smaller companies Delio Morales and Unidos La Costanera, which now share Tracopa's terminal.
TralapaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-7202; Av 5 btwn Calles 20 & 22)
Buses to several Península de Nicoya destinations, including Playa Flamingo, Playa Hermosa, Playa Tamarindo and Santa Cruz.
TransmonteverdeBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-7710; www.facebook.com/Transmonteverde; Terminal San Carlos, cnr Av 9 & Calle 12)
Buses to Monteverde.
Transportes CobanoBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-7479; transportescobano@gmail.com; Terminal San Carlos, cnr Av 9 & Calle 12)
Buses to Montezuma and Mal País.
Transportes DeldúBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2256-9072; www.transportesdeldu.com; Av 9 btwn Calles 10 & 12)
Buses to Peñas Blancas (Nicaraguan border).
Transportes JacóBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2290-7920, 2290-2922; www.transportesjacoruta655.com; Terminal Coca-Cola, Av 1 btwn Calles 16 & 18)
Buses to Jacó.
TranstusaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2222-4464; www.transtusacr.com; Calle 13A btwn Avs 6 & 8)
Buses to Cartago and Turrialba.
International Bus Companies
International buses get booked up fast. Buy your tickets in advance – and take your passport.
Expreso PanamáBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-7694; www.expresopanama.com; Terminal Empresarios Unidos, cnr Av 12 & Calle 16)
Buses to Panama City.
Tica BusBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2221-0006; www.ticabus.com; cnr Transversal 26 & Av 3)
Buses to Nicaragua, Panama, El Salvador and Guatemala.
TransNicaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-4123; www.transnica.com; Calle 22 btwn Avs 3 & 5)
Buses to Nicaragua and Honduras.
Transportes BocatoreñosBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %2223-7011, 2227-9523; cnr Av 5 & Calle 16)
Buses (departing opposite Hotel Cocori) to Changuinola, Panama (for Bocas del Toro).
Shuttle Buses
Grayline (%2220-2126; www.graylinecostarica.com; $33-89) and Interbus (%2283-5573; www.interbusonline.com; US$37-57) shuttle passengers in air-conditioned minivans from San José to a long list of popular destinations around Costa Rica. They are more expensive than the standard bus service, but they offer door-to-door service and can get you there faster.
SCAMS
Note that many taxi drivers in San José are commissioned by hotels to bring them customers, and the hotel scene is so competitive that drivers will say just about anything to steer you to the places they represent. Among other things, they will ‘call’ your hotel and a voice on the other end will tell you that they’re fully booked. Be skeptical. Tell drivers firmly where it is you would like to go. And if you have concerns about where you have chosen to stay, ask to see a room before settling in for the night.
Getting Around
Central San José frequently resembles a parking lot – narrow streets, heavy traffic and a complicated one-way system mean that it is often quicker to walk than to take the bus. The same applies to driving: if you rent a car, try to avoid downtown. If you’re in a real hurry to get somewhere that's more than 1km away, take a taxi.
If traveling by bus, you’ll arrive at one of several international bus terminals sprinkled around the western and southern parts of downtown. Some of this area is walkable provided you aren’t hauling a lot of luggage and are staying nearby. But, if you’re arriving at night, take a taxi, since most terminals are in dodgy areas.
To & From the Airports
International flights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría in nearby Alajuela.
In normal traffic, an official taxi from the airport to downtown San José should cost between US$25 and US$30, as measured on the meter. You can reserve a pickup with Taxi Aeropuerto (%2221-6865). Plan on spending extra for wait time during periods of heavy traffic.
Interbus runs shuttles in both directions between the airport and San José hotels (US$15 per adult, US$7.50 per child under 12), good value if you’re traveling alone.
Even cheaper are the public buses (US$1.10) operated by Tuasa and Station Wagon, which pick up passengers at a stop on the main road in front of the airport. Make sure to verify the destination before boarding, as some buses from this stop go to Alajuela, others to San José. On the return trip, board at the Tuasa or Station Wagon terminal in downtown San José (both opposite Iglesia de La Merced near the corner of Av 2 and Calle 12) and be sure to tell the driver that you are getting off at the airport (Voy al aeropuerto, por favor). Most hotels can also arrange for private airport pickup at reasonable rates.
From downtown, the drive to the airport can take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour (more if you take the bus) – and vice versa. Plan accordingly.
Bus
Local buses are useful to get you into the suburbs and surrounding villages, or to the airport. Most buses run between 5am and 10pm and cost between US$0.40 and US$1.10.
To catch a bus heading west from San José towards La Sabana (US$0.40), head for the convenient downtown stop at the southeast corner of Av 3 and Calle 3. Buses returning from Parque La Sabana to downtown follow Paseo Colón, then go over to Av 2 at the San Juan de Dios hospital. They then go three different ways through town before eventually heading back to La Sabana. Buses are marked Sabana–Estadio, Sabana–Cementerio or Cementerio–Estadio. These buses are a good bet for a cheap city tour.
Catch eastbound buses to Los Yoses and San Pedro (US$0.50) from the northeast corner of Calle Central and Av 9. These buses run east along Av 2 and then switch over to Av Central at Calle 29. (Many are easily identifiable by the big sign that says ‘Mall San Pedro’ on the front window.)
Buses southwest to Escazú (US$0.65 to US$0.80, 15 to 25 minutes) leave from two different locations: Av 6 between Calles 14 and 16 (south of the Hospital San Juan de Dios), and Calle 16 between Avs 1 and 3 (near the Coca-Cola terminal). Buses labeled ‘San Antonio de Escazú’ climb the hill south of Escazú and end near the Iglesia San Antonio de Escazú; those labeled ‘Escazú Centro’ end in Escazú’s main plaza; others, labeled ‘Guachipelín’ go west on the Carretera John F Kennedy and pass the Costa Rica Country Club. All go through San Rafael.
For buses to Alajuela and Heredia, see Click here and Click here.
Car
It is not advisable to rent a car just to drive around San José. The traffic is heavy, the streets are narrow and the meter-deep curbside gutters make parking nerve-wracking. In addition, break-ins are frequent, and leaving a car – even in a guarded lot – might result in a smashed window and stolen belongings.
If you are renting a car to travel throughout Costa Rica, there are more than 50 car-rental agencies – including many of the global brands – in and around San José. Travel agencies and upmarket hotels can arrange rentals; you can also arrange rentals online and at the airport.
One excellent local option is Wild Rider (
GOOGLE MAP
; %2258-4604; www.wild-rider.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 30 & 32; h8am-6pm), run by a charming pair of Germans. They have a fleet of over 60 very reasonably priced 4WD vehicles (from US$380 per week in high season, including all mandatory insurance coverage). Reserve well in advance.
Motorcycle
Wild Rider rents sports bikes like the Honda XR-250 or the Suzuki DRZ-400S. Prices start at US$420 per week in high season (including insurance, taxes and helmets). It organizes on- and off-road guided tours as well.
Taxi
Red taxis can be hailed on the street day or night, or you can have your hotel call one for you.
Marías (meters) are generally used, though a few drivers will tell you they’re broken and try to charge you more – especially if you don’t speak Spanish. Not using a meter is illegal. The rate for the first kilometer should automatically appear when the meter starts up (at the time of writing, the correct starting amount was 610 colones). Make sure the maría is operating when you get in, or negotiate the fare up front. Short rides downtown cost US$2 to US$4. There’s a 20% surcharge after 10pm that may not appear on the maría.
You can hire a taxi and a driver for half a day or longer if you want to do some touring around the area; for such trips, it is best to negotiate a flat fee in advance.