Caribbean Coast

Why Go

While the sunny climate and easy accessibility of the Pacific have paved the way (literally) for development on that rich coast, the Caribbean side has languished in comparison. The same rain-drenched malarial wildness that thwarted the first 16th-century Spaniards from settling here also isolated this region for centuries afterward. Thus, its culture – influenced by indigenous peoples and West Indian immigrants – blended slowly and organically and is distinctly different from that of the rest of Costa Rica. It still takes a little more effort to travel here to see the nesting turtles of Tortuguero, raft the Río Pacuare or dive the reefs of Manzanillo. Life is more rugged and rustic on this coast, allowing wildlife to thrive. And it's well worth tasting its unique flavors: the rondón (spicy seafood gumbo), the lilt of patois, and the uncrowded stretches of black-sand beaches.

When to Go

As evidenced by the spectacularly lush greenery in this region, there's no traditional 'dry season.' It rains throughout the year, though less in February and March and September and October – this latter period conveniently coinciding with when the rest of the country is getting soaked. Surfers, note: the biggest swells hit the southern Caribbean from December to March. Turtle-nesting season runs from March to October. January to June and September to December are best for sportfishing, although fishing is good year-round in the northern Caribbean.

Best Places to Eat

ASobre las Olas

ASelvin's Restaurant

AStashu's con Fusion

ALa Pecora Nera

ATaylor's Place

Best Off the Beaten Track

ASelva Bananito

ALa Danta Salvaje

APunta Mona

ATurtle Beach Lodge

AAiko-logi

Caribbean Coast Highlights

1 Slide silently through jungle canals in search of wildlife or volunteer to protect endangered sea turtles in Tortuguero.

2 Surf, sample the culinary scene, laze on the beach and party in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

3 Visit cacao farms and indigenous villages around Bribrí.

4 Chill out in rustic bliss in Cahuita and soak up its Caribbean creole culture.

5 Overdose on the dangerous cuteness of monkeys, sloths and other convalescing critters at Jaguar Centro de Rescate in Playa Chiquita.

6 Snorkel the teeming reefs off of end-of-the-road Manzanillo.

7 Witness the dramatic meeting of the murky Río Sucio and the crystal-clear Río Hondura in Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.

History

In 1502 Christopher Columbus spent a total of 17 days anchored off the coast of Puerto Limón on what would be his fourth and final voyage to the New World. He dropped anchor at an isle he baptized La Huerta (today known as Isla Uvita), loaded up on fresh water, and never returned.

For Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, this small encounter foreshadowed the colonization that was to come. But it would be centuries before Europeans would fully dominate the area. Because of the difficult nature of the terrain (croc-filled swamps and steep mountain slopes) and the malaria delivered by relentless fleets of mosquitoes, the Spanish steadfastly avoided it. For hundreds of years, in fact, the area remained the province of indigenous ethnicities – the Miskito in the north and the Cabécar, Bribrí and Kèköldi in the south – along with a mix of itinerant Afro-Caribbean turtle hunters from Panama and Colombia.

It was the building of the railroad, beginning in 1871, that would solidify the area’s West Indian accent, with the arrival of thousands of former Jamaican slaves in search of employment. The plan was to build a port at the site of a grand old lemon tree (hence the name, Puerto Limón) on the Caribbean Sea, so that coffee barons in the Central Valley could more easily export their crops to Europe. The railway was intended to unify the country, but it was a source of segregation as well. Blacks were not allowed to vote or travel freely around Costa Rica until 1949. Out of isolation, however, sprung an independent culture, with its own musical and gastronomic traditions, and even its own unique language, a creole called Mekatelyu – which is still spoken today.

Parks & Reserves

Many refuges and parks line the Caribbean coast. These are some of the most popular.

Parque Nacional Cahuita A patch of coastal jungle is home to armadillos, monkeys and sloths, while the protected reef is one of the most important on the coast.

Parque Nacional Tortuguero Jungle canals obscure snoozing caimans, while howler, spider and capuchin monkeys traipse overhead. The star attraction, however, are the sea turtles, which nest here from March to October.

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado A remote park that draws fishing enthusiasts who come to hook species such as snook, tarpon and gar.

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo A rich rainforest and wetland tucked away along the country’s southeastern border, with rivers full of manatee, caiman and crocodile.

Dangers & Annoyances

The Caribbean coast region has had a bad reputation over the years for being more dangerous than other parts of Costa Rica. In reality, crime levels against tourists are no higher here than in any other part of the country. As anywhere else, exercise common sense.

A bigger problem is the sea: riptides get ferocious (even in shallow water) and in the north, sharks are a regular presence. Swim in safe areas – if unsure, ask a local.

Getting There & Around

When traveling to Puerto Limón and the southern Caribbean, it’s easy enough to hop on any of the regular buses from San José. Buses also connect most towns along the coast, from Sixaola, on the Panamanian border, to Puerto Limón. The roads are in good condition, so driving is also an option.

The north is a little trickier. Much of the area is only linked up by waterways, making boats the sole means of transport. Puerto Limón, Tortuguero, Parismina and Barra del Colorado all have landing strips, but only Tortuguero has daily commercial flights.

The Atlantic Slope

The idea was simple: build a port on the Caribbean coast and connect it to the Central Valley by railroad, thereby opening up important shipping routes for the country’s soaring coffee production. Construction began in 1871, through 150km of dense jungles and muddy mountainsides along the Atlantic slope. It took almost two decades to build the railroad, and the first 30km reportedly cost 4000 men their lives. But when the last piece of track was laid down in 1890, the economic forces it unleashed permanently changed Costa Rica (and the rest of Central America, for that matter). It was the dawn of the banana boom, an industry that would dominate life, politics and the environment in the region for almost a century.

Today, the railroad is no longer. An asphalt highway (Hwy 32) – through Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo – links San José to the Caribbean coast, winding down the foothills of the Cordillera Central, through agricultural plantations to the swampy lowlands around Limón. Likewise, banana production is not as mighty as it once was, supplanted in many areas by pineapples and African oil palms.

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo

Enter this under-explored national park and you will have an idea of what Costa Rica looked like prior to the 1950s, when 75% of the country’s surface area was still covered in forest: steep hills cloaked in impossibly tall trees are interrupted only by cascading rivers and canyons. It has extraordinary biodiversity due to the range of altitudes, from steamy 2906m cloud forest alongside Volcán Barva to lush, humid lowlands on the Caribbean slope. Its most incredible feature, however, is that this massive park is only 30 minutes north of San José.

Founded in the 1970s, Braulio Carrillo’s creation was the result of a unique compromise between conservationists and developers. At the time, the government had announced a plan to build a new highway that would connect the capital to Puerto Limón. Back then, San José’s only link to its most important port was via a crumbling railway or a slow rural road through Cartago and Turrialba. The only feasible route for the new thoroughfare was along a low pass between the Barva and Irazú volcanoes – an area covered in primary forest. Conservationists were deeply worried about putting a road (and any attendant development) in an area that served as San José’s watershed. So a plan was hatched: the road would be built, but the 475 sq km of land to either side of it would be set aside as a national park. Thus, in 1978, Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo was born.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

A JUNGLE RETREAT ON THE NATIONAL PARK'S EDGE

If your dream vacation involves slowing down and getting totally immersed in nature, make a beeline for La Danta Salvaje (%2750-0012; www.ladantasalvaje.com; 3-night package incl meals per person US$250), a remote, off-the-grid ecolodge right on the border of Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.

Getting here involves a 45-minute 4WD trip into the hills above Guápiles, followed by a strenuous three-hour hike into a fabulous 410-hectare private rainforest reserve (altitude 800m) in a critical buffer zone adjoining the national park. Small groups spend four days and three nights hiking in the jungle, spotting wildlife, splashing around in idyllic swimming holes and returning to delicious home-cooked meals followed by evening card games and hot chocolate beside the wood stove. It all adds up to unparalleled fun for adventurous-spirited individuals, couples and families. Prices include guided hikes and three meals daily. Reserve ahead.

2Activities

Cerro Dantas Wildlife RefugeVOLUNTEERING

(www.cerrodantas.com)

Near Monte de la Cruz, in the Barva sector, the Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge is an education facility that is always seeking volunteers to help out with administrative, maintenance and research duties. Contact the organization through its website.

Wildlife-Watching

Bird-watching in the park is excellent, and commonly sighted species include parrots, toucans and hummingbirds; quetzals can be seen at higher elevations, primarily in the Barva sector. Other rare but sighted birds include eagles and umbrella birds.

Mammals are difficult to spot due to the lush vegetation, though deer, monkeys and tepezcuintle (paca, the park’s mascot) are frequently seen. Jaguars and ocelots are present but rare.

Hiking

Quebrada González Ranger StationHIKING

Three easy to moderate trails fan out from the Quebrada González ranger station between Guápiles and San José. On the north side of Hwy 32, the mostly flat, gravel-paved 1km Sendero El Ceibo is the easiest of the three, passing a giant ceibo tree, a scenic overlook and seven other marked points of interest before looping back to the ranger station. Proximity to the highway creates some distracting traffic noise here. Sendero Botarrama, a slightly more rugged spur trail (expect mud and exposed roots) branches off Sendero El Ceibo and continues another 1km to the junction of the crystal-clear Río Hondura with the Río Sucio (Dirty River), the yellow waters of which carry volcanic minerals. Back on the south side of Hwy 32, the 1.6km, gravel-paved Sendero Las Palmas is another loop trail that climbs moderately into dense rainforest that's prime territory for bird-watching.

Keep an eye out for the distinctive Gunnera plants, which quickly colonize newly exposed parts of montane rainforest. The huge leaves can protect a person from a sudden downpour – hence the plant’s nickname, sombrilla de pobre (poor man’s umbrella).

Volcán BarvaVOLCANO

Climbing Volcán Barva is a strenuous adventure along a remote but reasonably well-maintained trail. Because of its relative inaccessibility, there is a good chance you will be alone. Begin from the western entrance of the park, north of Heredia. From there a 2.5km signed track climbs to the summit. Trails are often muddy, and you should be prepared for rain any time of the year.

Near the volcano’s summit are two lagoons – Lagos Barva and Copey – the prime destinations on a network of four trails that also leads to waterfalls and other scenic spots along the way.

Camping is allowed at basic campsites near the ranger station; bring your own drinking water.

Information

The park's three most accessible hiking trails originate at Quebrada González station (%2206-5500; admission US$8; h8am-4pm) in the park's northeast corner, 21km past the Zurquí tunnel on the south side of the San José–Guápiles highway. Here, you’ll find safe parking, toilets, drinking water and a ranger-staffed info booth. For security reasons, don’t leave your car parked anywhere along the main highway.

People who want to climb Volcán Barva on a day trip or camp overnight can stop by the Barva Sector ranger station (%2266-1883, 2266-1892; admission US$8; h8am-4pm), in the southwest of the park, 3km north of Sacramento.

Temperatures fluctuate drastically, and annual rainfall can be as high as 6000mm. The best time to go is the ‘dry’ season (January to April), but it is liable to rain then, too. Bring warm clothing, wet-weather gear and sturdy footwear.

Getting There & Away

Frequent buses between San José and Guápiles can drop you off at the Quebrada González station, but the return trip is more challenging. While it's possible to flag a bus down on busy Hwy 32, your luck will depend on the driver's discretion and how full the bus is.

Drivers can reach the Barva station by following the decent paved road north from Heredia through Barva village to San José de la Montaña, Paso Llano and Sacramento. From Sacramento, a signed, 4WD-only trail leads 3km north to the entrance. It is not advisable to drive this stretch in rainy season as the road is a mess of car-swallowing potholes. Public buses from Heredia can only get you as far as Paso Llano, 7km from the park entrance. For a day trip without your own vehicle, you'll need to take an early bus; see the Heredia section for schedule details. Make sure you’re catching a bus that goes all the way to Paso Llano, or you’ll be left more than 15km from the park’s entrance.

WORTH A TRIP

RAINFOREST AERIAL TRAM

The brainchild of biologist Don Perry, a pioneer of rainforest-canopy research, the Rainforest Aerial Tram (%2257-5961, in USA 1-866-759-8726; www.rainforestadventure.com; adult/student & child tram US$60/30, zip line US$50/35; c) carries visitors to the heights of the forest canopy in a gondola. The 2.6km ride takes 40 minutes each way, affording unusual plant-spotting and bird-watching opportunities. The fee includes a knowledgeable guide, which is helpful since the dense vegetation can make observing animals difficult. A variety of other organized adventures, including a 14-platform, 10-cable zip-lining tour and the new 2000m AdrenaLine (longest zip line on Costa Rica's Caribbean slope), are also available. Book online or in the San José office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2257-5961; Av 7 btwn Calles 5 & 7; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri).

Guápiles & Around

Pop 36,500

A pleasant and decidedly nontouristy (if not terribly scenic) lowland agricultural town, Guápiles lies at the base of the northern foothills of the Cordillera Central. It serves as a transportation center for the Río Frío banana-growing region and also makes a convenient base from which to explore Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo – a 20-minute drive away – or to organize excursions to Tortuguero.

The center of town is about 1km north of Hwy 32, reached by a pair of well-marked turnoffs on either side of the impossible-to-miss Burger King restaurant. Guápiles' two major streets are one way, running parallel to each other east and west. Most of the services are on the loop that these streets make through the busy downtown.

THE TROUBLED LEGACY OF BANANAS

The banana. Nothing embodies the tumultuous history of Latin America – and its complicated relationship with the United States – quite like this common yellow fruit. It is the crop that has determined the path of current affairs in more than one Central American nation. It is the sobriquet used to describe corrupt, dictatorial regimes – ‘the banana republic.’ Bananas are a symbol of frivolity, the raw material for Carmen Miranda hats and Busby Berkeley dance numbers. (Want to blow your mind? Look up ‘The Lady with the Tutti Frutti Hat’ from the 1942 musical flick The Gang’s All Here – it’s a hallucinogenic panorama of dancing bananas.)

It was in Costa Rica, interestingly, where the idea of bananas as an industry was born. Imported from the Canary Islands by sailors during the colonial period, the fruit had long been a basic foodstuff in the Caribbean islands. But it was 19th-century railroad baron Minor Keith who turned it into a booming international business. After building the railroad between San José and Limón, Keith proceeded to carpet vast swaths of Central America in bananas. Over the course of the 20th century, the company he founded – United Fruit – would become an integral part of the region’s economies and a behind-the-scenes puppet master in its political systems. (For a highly readable history on this topic, pick up Bananas: How the United Fruit Company Shaped the World, by journalist Peter Chapman.)

Part of the reason bananas became a continent-wide crop boils down to profit and biology. Bananas – a fruit afflicted with a high rate of spoilage – require a vast economy of scale (and cheap labor) to be profitable. It’s also an inordinately delicate fruit to cultivate, partly because bananas are clones. The fruit doesn’t grow from seeds; its propagation requires that a cutting be taken from an existing plant and put into the ground. This makes them incredibly vulnerable to illness – what kills one banana kills all bananas. Entire networks of plantations can be devastated by fungus, such as the diseases that swept through Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean coast in the 1910s and '20s.

Over the years, this weakness has led growers to turn to a veritable arsenal of chemicals to protect their crops. This, in turn, has taken a toll on both the environment and the workers who spray them, some of whom have been rendered sterile by powerful fungicides such as DBCP (now banned). Groups of workers in various countries have filed numerous lawsuits against fruit companies and chemical manufacturers – and won – but these victories are generally short-lived. Even when Central American courts rule in workers’ favor, it is practically impossible for plaintiffs to secure payouts.

There have been some attempts at growing bananas organically, but according to some experts, those efforts will never be enough to replace the intense agribusiness that currently supplies the world with its fourth major foodstuff, after rice, wheat and milk. Costa Rica is sometimes thought of as a country of coffee producers, a nation built on the work of humble, independent farmers. But the fact is that bananas remain the country’s number-one agricultural export – as they have been for decades. They are an inextricable part of the country’s DNA. And, unless everyone suddenly starts putting sliced apples into their cereal, that likely won’t change any time soon.

4Sleeping

Guápiles

Cabinas IrdamaCABIN

(%2710-7034; hotel.cabinas.irdama@gmail.com; s/d with fan US$23/29, r with air-con US$32)

This well-tended motel-like structure near the center of town offers 22 clean rooms and a small attached restaurant (meals US$6; h6am-8pm) serving breakfast and casados (set meals). Look for it 50m north of the Más x Menos supermarket (about 1km northeast of the bus terminal).

Hotel Country Club SuerreHOTEL

(%2713-3000; www.suerre.com; s/d US$90/124, each additional person US$20; pnaWs)

On the road to Cariari, 1.5km north of the Servicentro Santa Clara, this Holiday Inn–like business resort has 98 spacious, tidy rooms and two restaurants. The meticulously maintained grounds house a casino, a large pool, a gym, shaded tennis courts and a children’s play area.

Around Guápiles

oCasa Río Blanco B&BB&B

(%2710-4124; www.casarioblanco.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$53/77/93/107; pW)S

One of Costa Rica’s original ecolodges, this welcoming place offers four cabins on a 2-hectare hillside above the Río Blanco. Devoid of cable TV and air-con, it’s a throwback to earlier days when ecotourism was all about unplugging. Croaking frogs and flickering lightning bugs provide late-night entertainment, while daytime diversions include visits to the spectacular nearby swimming hole.

Helpful owners Annette and Herbie organize rafting tours on the Río Pacuare and off-the-beaten-path day excursions through the Tortuguero canals. The lodge offers 20%-discount vouchers for the Rainforest Aerial Tram and zip line in the adjacent Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. Additional organic meals (including vegetarian options) can be arranged, and free wi-fi is available in the open lounge. To get here, travel 1km south of the Río Blanco bridge on Hwy 32 (7km west of Guápiles near La Marina). Call ahead or email for reservations.

5Eating

Guápiles

El RubioCOSTA RICAN

(%2710-2323; Guápiles; mains US$5-12)

The clutter of pick-up trucks out front is a clue that you've stumbled onto this popular family eatery serving grilled fish, roasted meats and bocas (savory bar snacks). Our favorite is chifrijo, rice and beans studded with fried pork, tomato salsa and chips. Head north 250m on the paved road just east of Burger King, then turn east another 250m.

Soda Buenos AiresCOSTA RICAN

(%2710-1768; Hwy 32; casados US$5; h6am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Situated 600m west of Burger King on the south side of the main highway, this popular soda (cheap, informal lunch counter) is a good bet for early-morning breakfasts and affordable casados.

Más X MenosSUPERMARKET

(h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

This huge supermarket is 800m northeast of the bus terminal, along Guápiles' eastbound main street.

Around Guápiles

oRestaurante El YugoCOSTA RICAN

(%2711-0090; mains US$3-10; h24hr)

If there's a Costa Rican truck-stop heaven, it must look something like this. Strategically placed just below Hwy 32's tortuous climb into Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo (13km west of Guápiles), it's the perfect spot to brace yourself for the road ahead or recuperate from the harrowing descent. A fabulous array of tasty, affordable cafeteria-style food is available 24/7.

Getting There & Away

Guapiles' modern bus terminal, complete with eateries and internet cafe (h9am-5pm), is 800m north of the main highway from the western Burger King turnoff.

Cariari (Coopetraca) US$1; 20 minutes; departs every 15 minutes from 6am to 10pm.

Puerto Limón via Guácimo & Siquirres (Tracasa) US$4.30; two hours; departs hourly from 6am to 7pm.

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (Guapileños) US$2.40; one hour; departs at 5:30am, 8am, 9am, 10:30am, noon, 1:15pm, 2:30pm, 4pm, 5pm and 6:30pm.

San José (Guapileños) US$2.75; 1¼ hours; departs every 30 minutes from 6:30am to 7pm.

Cariari

Pop 34,200

Due north of Guápiles, Cariari is a blue-collar, rough-around-the-edges banana town. Most travelers make their way quickly through here, en route to Tortuguero. If that's you, Cariari is your last opportunity to get cash.

If you get stranded, spend the night at Hotel El Trópico (%2767-7070; www.hoteleltropico.com; s/d with fan US$25/31, with air-con US$29/33; paW) on the main road 600m north of Terminal Caribeño, which has 17 tidy rooms (angle for one of the three with front-porch hammocks) and an on-site restaurant (open 7am to 10pm).

There’s a gas station and a branch of Banco de Costa Rica with a 24-hour ATM on the Cirrus system.

Getting There & Away

Cariari has two bus terminals. Buses from San José arrive at the estación nueva (new station) at the southern end of town. Those serving Guápiles and the northern Caribbean use the estación vieja (old station, also known as Terminal Caribeño), about 500m north, on the west side of main street.

To reach Tortuguero, take a bus from the estación vieja to the dock at La Pavona, then transfer to one of the several boat services that make multiple daily trips to Tortuguero.

When returning from Tortuguero, if headed to the southern Caribbean coast, take a bus to Guápiles and then transfer to one of the regular hourly buses to Puerto Limón.

Guápiles (estación vieja) US$1; 20 minutes; departs every 15 minutes from 5:30am to 7pm.

La Pavona for boat transfer to Tortuguero (estación vieja) US$2.20; one hour; departs at 6am, 9am, 11:30am and 3pm.

Puerto Lindo for boat transfer to Barra del Colorado (estación vieja) US$5, 2½ hours; departs at 4am and 2pm.

San José (estación nueva) US$3.35; two hours; departs daily at 7:30am, 9am, 11:30am, 1pm, 3pm and 5:30pm.

If driving, the turnoff for the paved road to Cariari is about 1km east of Guápiles, at the Servicentro Santa Clara. Drivers heading to Tortuguero can leave cars at the guarded parking by the boat dock on the Río Suerte in La Pavona (about 30km north of Cariari). Casa Marbella in Tortuguero has posted a very helpful map of the exact route from Guápiles to La Pavona (see casamarbella.tripod.com/id10.html)

Siquirres

Pop 31,600

The steamy lowland town of Siquirres has long served as an important transportation hub. It sits at the intersection of Hwy 32 (the main road that crosses the Atlantic slope to Puerto Limón) and Hwy 10, the old road that connects San José with Puerto Limón via Turrialba.

Even before the roads were built, it was a significant location – for it was in Siquirres in the early 20th century that the lines of segregation were drawn. At the time, blacks were barred from traveling west of here without special permission. So any train making its way from Limón to San José was required to stop here and change its crew: black conductors and engineers would change places with their Spanish counterparts and the train would continue on its route to the capital. This ended in 1949, when a new constitution outlawed racial discrimination.

Today Siquirres still marks the place where Costa Rica takes a dip into the Caribbean – and not just geographically. This is where Costa Rican casados give way to West Indian rondón, where Spanish guitar is replaced with the strains of calypso, and where Costa Rica’s inherently mestizo (mixed ancestry) race gives way to Afro-Caribbean features.

There is little reason to stop in Siquirres, unless you're heading to Parismina – in which case this is a good spot to find banking, internet and telephone services. (Tip: buy phone cards here; they aren't sold in Parismina.) For purposes of orientation, the Siquirres church – a highly recognizable, round, red-domed building – is located to the west side of the soccer field.

If you need somewhere to crash for the night, head 1km northeast of the park to Centro Turístico Las Tilapias (%2768-9293; d with fan/air-con US$45/50; paWs), where you'll find 17 clean-but-basic rooms perched above an artificial lagoon, as well as a restaurant and bar. Take a taxi, as it's tricky to find.

Sodas and bakeries are plentiful in town.

Banco de Costa Rica (h9am-4pm), 100m north of the park, has a 24-hour ATM on the Cirrus network.

Getting There & Away

Siquirres has two main bus terminals. The one on the southeast corner of the park serves the first three destinations listed below. Buses for Turrialba leave from a separate terminal on the north side of the park.

Guápiles US$1.75; 45 minutes; hourly 7am to 7pm.

Limón US$2.30; one hour; almost hourly 5:50am to 7:50pm.

San José US$3.20; two hours; almost hourly 4:30am to 7pm.

Turrialba US$2.35; 1½ hours; almost hourly 5:30am to 7pm.

To Parismina

At the terminal on the park's northern edge, you’ll find buses to Caño Blanco, for transfer by boat to Parismina. Caño-Aguilar (%2768-8172) operates the route to Caño Blanco (US$2.20, two hours, weekday departures at 4:10am, noon and 3:15pm, weekend departures at 7:15am, noon and 3:15pm). At Caño Blanco you'll transfer to a water taxi (US$2) that makes the 10-minute trip to Parismina. (Take small change to pay the boatman.) There's a small restaurant with bathrooms by the Caño Blanco dock.

Note: the Caño Blanco bus can get crowded. Get to the station early to buy your ticket and join the queue at least 15 minutes before the scheduled departure time.

WORTH A TRIP

VERAGUA RAINFOREST RESEARCH & ADVENTURE PARK

Nestled into the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca, this sprawling rainforest adventure park (%2296-5056; www.veraguarainforest.com; adult with/without zip-line tour US$99/66, child with/without zip-line tour US$75/55; c) has guided tours of the forest along elevated walkways and maintained trails, as well as an aerial tram, a reptile vivarium, an insectarium, and hummingbird and butterfly gardens. And what would it be without a zip-line canopy tour? Many of the attractions are wheelchair-accessible – a good way of exploring nature if traveling with an elderly person or small children. To get here, take the signed turnoff south from Hwy 32 at Liverpool, 12km west of Puerto Limón.

Puerto Limón

Pop 61,100

The biggest city on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, the birthplace of United Fruit and capital of Limón Province, this hardworking port city sits removed from the rest of the country. Cruise ships deposit dazed-looking passengers between October and May. Around here, business is measured by truckloads of fruit, not busloads of tourists, so don’t expect any pampering.

A general lack of political and financial support from the federal government means that Limón is not a city that has aged gracefully. It is a grid of dilapidated buildings, overgrown parks and sidewalks choked with street vendors. Crime is a problem: the city, distressingly, has as many homicides annually as San José – even though San José has five times the population. It’s worth noting, however, that most of this violence is related to organized crime and does not affect travelers. Despite its shortcomings, Limón can be a compelling destination for adventurous urban explorers.

Puerto Limón

1Sights

1Parque VargasD2

2Sea WallC1

4Sleeping

3Hotel AconC2

4Hotel MiamiB3

5Park HotelC2

5Eating

6Caribbean Kalisi Coffee ShopB2

7Central MarketC2

8Más X MenosC2

9PalíA3

10Restaurant BionaturaB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11El CruceroD2

History

Until the 1850s, the most frequent visitors to Limón were pirates, who used the area’s natural deep-water bays as hideouts. At the time, the country’s main port was in Puntarenas, on the Pacific, but when the railroad arrived in the late 19th century, Limón blossomed into a full-blown trade hub. The city ultimately served as the key export point for the country’s newest agribusiness: bananas.

Beginning in 1913, a series of blights shut down many Caribbean fincas (farms) and a large portion of the area's banana production moved to the southern Pacific coast. Afro-Caribbean workers, however, couldn’t follow the jobs, as they were forbidden to leave the province. Stranded in the least-developed part of Costa Rica, many turned to subsistence farming, fishing or managing small-scale cacao plantations. Others organized and staged bloody strikes against United Fruit. Fed up with the status quo, Limón provided key support to José Figueres (a Costa Rican revolutionary) during the 1948 civil war. This act was rewarded the following year when the new president enacted a constitution that granted blacks full citizenship and the right to work and travel freely throughout Costa Rica.

Even though segregation was officially dismantled, Limón continues to live with its legacy. The province was the last to get paved roads and the last to get electricity (areas to the south of the city weren’t on the grid until the late 1970s), and the region has chronically higher crime and unemployment rates than the rest of the country.

While two major new infrastructure developments have been announced in recent years – the construction of a $1 billion container port in Moín by the multinational corporation APM and a Chinese-financed US$221 million initiative to widen Hwy 32 to four lanes – it is unclear whether the economic benefits of these projects will be shared by the local population. Indeed, plans for the container port have sparked massive protests by dockworkers' union members in Limón and Moín who fear that privatization of the port will undermine, rather than improve, their standard of living.

1Sights & Activities

Limón itself has no beach; for a swim, you'll need to head out of town to Playa Bonita.

Parque VargasPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The city’s waterfront centerpiece won't ever win best in show, but its decrepit bandstand, paths and greenery are surprisingly appealing, all shaded by palms and facing the docks.

Playa BonitaBEACH

While not the Caribbean's finest beach, Playa Bonita, 4km northwest of town on the Limón–Moín bus route, offers sandy stretches of seashore and good swimming. Surfers come for Bonita's point/reef break, which makes for a powerful (and sometimes dangerous) left. Experienced surfers might also want to hit the punishing reef break at Isla Uvita, the wild green rock 1km offshore.

zFestivals & Events

Festival Flores de la Diáspora AfricanaCULTURE

(www.festivaldiasporacr.org; hlate Aug)

A celebration of Afro-Caribbean culture. While it is centered on Puerto Limón, the festival sponsors events showcasing African heritage throughout the province and San José.

Día de la RazaCULTURE

(Columbus Day; hOct 12)

Puerto Limón celebrates Día de la Raza with a boisterous week of Carnaval festivities, including live music, dancing and a big Saturday parade. During this time, book hotels in advance.

4Sleeping

Limón offers nothing remotely upscale; for something nicer, head to nearby Playa Bonita.

Hotel MiamiHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-0490; hmiamilimon@yahoo.com; Av 2 btwn Calles 4 & 5; s/d US$27/35, with air-con US$39/52; pai)

For its location on the main drag, this clean, mint-green place feels surprisingly serene, especially in the rooms in back. All 34 tidy rooms are equipped with cable TV and fan. Rooms with air-conditioning have hot water. Welcoming staff, common balconies overlooking the street and secure setup add up to the best value in town.

Hotel Playa BonitaHOTEL

(%2795-1010; www.hotelplayabonita.com; incl breakfast s/d standard US$52/80, executive US$66/86; paWs)

This seaside hotel has simple whitewashed rooms and a breezy ocean-view restaurant that serves everything from burgers to jumbo shrimp. It’s about 5km from downtown Puerto Limón and 2.5km from the entrance to the docks at Moín.

Park HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2798-0555; www.parkhotellimon.com; Av 3 btwn Calles 1 & 2; s/d standard US$55/74, superior US$64/90, deluxe US$77/103; paiW)

Downtown Limón’s most attractive hotel has 32 rooms in a faded yellow building that faces the ocean. Tiled rooms are tidy and sport clean bathrooms with hot water; superior and deluxe units come with ocean views and balconies. The hotel also houses the swankiest restaurant in the town center.

Hotel AconHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-1010; cnr Av 3 & Calle 3; s/d US$44/64; aW)

The ’60s-style modernist building is in a ramshackle state, but the place is generally clean. The 39 rooms are basic: bare linoleum floors and aged wood furnishings, all with creaky air-con units and hot-water bathrooms.

5Eating & Drinking

Find cheap eats at the sodas in the central market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 4; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat). You can get groceries at the large Más X Menos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 3 & Calle 3; h8am-9pm), or at the Palí ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Calle 7 & Av 1; h8am-7pm Mon-Thu, 8am-7:30pm Fri & Sat, 8:30am-6pm Sun) next to the Terminal Caribeño.

Bars by Parque Vargas and a few blocks west are popular hangouts for coastal characters: banana workers, sailors, ladies of the night, entrepreneurs, boozers, losers and everyone else. The standard warnings for solo women travelers go double here. (If you feel like having a beer, hit a restaurant.) This is a lousy town for getting drunk – keep your wits about you.

Caribbean Kalisi Coffee ShopCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-3249; Calle 6 btwn Avs 3 & 4; mains from US$5; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7:30pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)

Belly up to the cafeteria-style counter at this friendly family spot and cobble together a plate of coconut rice, red beans and whatever Caribbean meat and veggie dishes are cooking today. Also recommended in the mornings for its affordable à la carte breakfasts and excellent café con leche (coffee with milk).

Restaurant BionaturaVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2798-7474; Calle 6 btwn Avs 3 & 4; mains US$5-8; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat; v)

This restaurant shines for its focus on healthy vegetarian cuisine, including fresh fruit salads, veggie burgers, bistek de soya (soy steak) casados and a US$6 plato del día (daily special).

Reina’sSEAFOOD

(%2795-0879; mains US$9-15; h10am-10pm)

On the beach at Playa Bonita, Reina's has loud music, good vibes and plenty of mariscos (seafood) and cerveza (beer) on the menu.

El CruceroCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-7003; cnr Calle 1 & Av 1; h6:30am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Kick back with a smoothie, an empanada or an iced espresso and let the cross-breeze cool you at this corner cafe facing Parque Vargas and the docks.

Information

Though police presence has ramped up noticeably, pickpockets can be a problem, particularly in the market and along the sea wall. In addition, people do get mugged here, so stick to well-lit main streets at night, avoiding the sea wall and Parque Vargas. If driving, park in a guarded lot and remove everything from the car.

If you're traveling onward to Parismina or Tortuguero, Limón will be your last opportunity to get cash (and phonecards, for the Parismina-bound).

There's an internet cafe in the Autotransportes Mepe Terminal.

Hospital Tony FacioHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-2222)

Serves the entire province. It's northeast of the center.

ScotiabankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 3 & Calle 2; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Exchanges cash and has a 24-hour ATM that dispenses US dollars.

Getting There & Away

Puerto Limón is the transportation hub of the Caribbean coast.

Boat

Cruise ships dock in Limón, but smaller passenger boats bound for Parismina and Tortuguero use the port at Moín, about 7km west of town.

Bus

Buses from all points west arrive at Terminal Caribeño ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av 2 btwn Calles 7 & 8), just west of the baseball stadium.

San José (Autotransportes Caribeños) US$6.30; three hours; departs almost hourly 5am to 7pm.

Siquirres/Guápiles (Tracasa) US$2.30/4.30; one/two hours; departs hourly 6am to 6pm.

Buses to points south all depart from Autotransportes Mepe Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2758-1572; Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 2), on the east side of the stadium.

Bribrí/Sixaola US$4.40/6.35; two/three hours; departs hourly between 5am and 7pm.

Cahuita/Puerto Viejo de Talamanca US$2.40/3.60; one hour/1½ hours; departs almost hourly 5:30am to 7pm.

Manzanillo US$4.90; two hours; departs every one to two hours between 5:30am and 6:30pm.

Moín

Just 8km northwest of Puerto Limón, this is the town’s main transportation dock, where you can catch a boat to Parismina or Tortuguero.

Getting There & Away

Boat

The journey by boat from Moín to Tortuguero can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on how often the boat stops to observe wildlife (many tours also stop for lunch). Indeed, it is worth taking your time. As you wind through these jungle canals, you're likely to spot howler monkeys, crocodiles, two- and three-toed sloths and an amazing array of wading birds, including roseate spoonbills.

Tourist boat schedules exist in theory only and change frequently depending on demand. If you're feeling lucky, you can just show up in Moín in the morning and try to get on one of the outgoing tour boats (there's often at least one departure at 10am). But you're better off reserving in advance, particularly during slower seasons when boats don't travel the route on a daily basis. If the canal becomes blocked by water hyacinths or logjams, the route might be closed altogether. Call ahead for departure times and reservations.

One-way fares generally run between US$30 and US$40 to Tortuguero, or between US$25 and US$30 to Parismina. Two recommended agencies are Tortuguero Wildlife Tour (William Guerrero (TUCA); %8371-2323, 2798-7027; www.tortuguero-wildlife.com), run by master sloth-spotter William Guerrero and his wife, Martha, and All Rankin's Tours (%8815-5175, 2709-8101; www.greencoast.com/allrankin), run by longtime local resident Willis Rankin. Both are ideal for leisurely rides to Tortuguero; Rankin also offers package deals including accommodations in his rustic lodge near Tortuguero's airstrip. Another outfit that arranges transport on various boats is ABACAT (Asociación de Boteros de los Canales de Tortuguero; %8360-7325). For additional operators, see the Tortuguero section.

Bus

Tracasa buses to Moín from Puerto Limón (US$0.60, 20 minutes) depart from Terminal Caribeño hourly from 5:30am to 6:30pm (less frequently on Saturday and Sunday). Get off the bus before it goes over the bridge. If driving, leave your car in a guarded lot in Limón.

TURTLE BEACH TRAGEDY

The Caribbean’s turtle-conservation community suffered a devastating blow on the night of May 30, 2013, when 26-year-old Costa Rican environmentalist Jairo Mora Sandoval was murdered while patrolling a stretch of Moín beach near Puerto Limón. The tragedy shines a light on the challenges facing turtle conservationists. While many communities along the coast have successfully engaged the participation of former poachers in guide and conservation work, turtle eggs continue to be prized on the black market for their supposed aphrodisiac qualities. The remote section of beach where Mora was working, near Costa Rica’s biggest Caribbean port, is also frequented by drug-runners, some armed with semi-automatic weapons. Mora’s death sparked strong international and domestic protest, with calls for beefed-up police presence and stronger conservation measures. While six suspects were taken into custody two months after the murder, the ultimate outcome of Mora's case remains to be seen. Meanwhile, turtle-conservation efforts up and down the Caribbean coast continue.

Northern Caribbean

Running north–south along the country’s waterlogged eastern shore, the Canales de Tortuguero (Tortuguero Canal) serves as the liquid highway that connects Puerto Limón to the lush lowland settlements to the north: Parismina, Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado. This is the wettest region in Costa Rica, a network of rivers and canals that are home to diminutive fishing villages and slick sportfishing camps, raw rainforest and all-inclusive resorts – not to mention plenty of wading birds and sleepy sloths.

Most significantly, the area’s long, wild beaches serve as the protected nesting grounds for three kinds of sea turtle. In fact, more green turtles are born here than anywhere else in the world. Much of the region lies only a 30-minute flight from San José – but it nonetheless can feel like the end of the earth.

Parismina

For a sense of what Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast was like prior to the arrival of mass tourism, jump ship in this sleepy coastal fishing village, wedged between the Canales de Tortuguero and the Caribbean Sea. Bereft of zip lines and 4WD adventure tours, it’s the sort of spot where old men play dominoes on front porches and kids splash in muddy puddles in the road.

For those intrepid enough to make the journey and stick around a while, Parismina is also a great place to view turtles and aid in their conservation, without the crowds you'll find at Tortuguero. Leatherbacks nest on the beach between late February and early October, with the peak season in April and May. Green turtles begin nesting in June, with a peak in August and September. Hawksbills are not as common, but they are sometimes seen between February and September.

Sportfishing is the other traditional tourist draw. The top tarpon season is from January to mid-May, while snook are caught from September to November.

Every year around July 16, fishers and local boat captains have a small waterborne procession in honor of the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of sailors.

2Activities

You can rent kayaks for US$10 per day at Carefree Ranch or Iguana Verde (%2758-6400, 8765-1280) to explore the canals and their denizens.

Asociación Salvemos Las Tortugas de ParisminaVOLUNTEERING

(ASTOP/Save the Turtles of Parismina; %2798-2220; www.parisminaturtles.org; hby arrangement Mar-Sep)S

Directed by 35-year resident and former Peace Corps volunteer Vicky Taylor, this grassroots turtle-protection organization with strong community support employs former poachers as ‘turtle guides' and maintains a guarded turtle hatchery. Travelers can volunteer as guards to patrol the beaches alongside local turtle guides. Volunteers (five-night minimum commitment) pay a one-time US$35 registration fee, plus a daily US$10 training fee.

ASTOP also organizes homestays (per night with three meals US$17), offers internet access (per hour US$2), and can arrange horseback-riding trips, bike rentals, turtle-watching tours (per person US$20), wildlife-viewing excursions by boat, and farm and heliconia-garden tours in Caño Blanco.

BarritaSWIMMING

A 15-minute walk south of town brings you to the jungle-fringed freshwater lagoon called Barrita. From the Catholic church, head toward the beach and hang a right at the airstrip, then follow the path until it opens out onto the beach and (croc-free!) lagoon.

TTours

Río Parismina Lodge (%2229-7597, in USA 210-824-4442, in USA 800-338-5688; www.riop.com; rates by arrangement; ns) organizes package sportfishing expeditions from the USA.

4Sleeping & Eating

Don Alex at the hardware store, about 300m north of the dock, has camping and basic huts (US$7; high season only), with access to showers, bathrooms and a shared kitchen.

Carefree RanchCABINA

(%8744-6483; r per person US$10)

Opposite the Catholic church on the southern end of town, this clapboard house – bright yellow with green trim – has nine tidy rooms and an inviting, broad front porch. In Parismina, it’s about as quaint as things get. Tasty home-cooked casados (US$6) are also available.

Parismina Gamefish LodgeCABINA

(%2758-0724, 8971-1756; r per person with fan/air-con US$15/20; a)

At this basic place in the center of town, six simple, tiled rooms (two with air-con, four with fan) surround a garden lined with hammocks.

Green Gold EcolodgeLODGE

(%8697-2322, 8647-0691; greengoldeco-lodge.webs.com; dm adult/child incl 3 meals US$50/30)

About 3km south of the dock, this simple solar- and generator-powered retreat, steps from the beach and surrounded by 36 hectares of jungle, is an authentic rainforest hideaway. Run by the charming (and bilingual) Jason and Juliana, its rustic but comfortable facilities include dorm beds in screened-in upstairs rooms, a shared open-air kitchen and shared bathrooms.

Jason leads tours of all kinds, and the area is rife with as much wildlife as in Tortuguero, but hardly any people. Walk in from the village, or arrange for a truck ride from town (US$10 one way); advance reservations recommended.

Soda Rancho La PalmaCOSTA RICAN

(casados US$7; h6am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Right next to the dock, no-nonsense doña Amelia serves up fresh and tasty casados. She also keeps the small plaster statue of the Virgin that is paraded during the annual boat procession in July.

Information

There are no banks or post offices in Parismina, and credit cards are not accepted, so make sure you bring enough cash. While the village has a couple of pay phones, no one in town sells phonecards – bring your own. You can find internet access (per hour US$2) at ASTOP.

Getting There & Away

Parismina is only accessible by boat or chartered flight.

The only scheduled boat service is to Caño Blanco (for transfer to Siquirres). Water taxis (US$2, 10 minutes) leave from the Parismina dock at 5:30am, 1:30pm and 4:30pm on weekdays, and at 9am, 1:30pm and 4:30pm on weekends. A bus will be waiting at Caño Blanco's dock to continue the journey to Siquirres (US$2.20, two hours), where you can find onward transport.

For travel to Tortuguero or Puerto Limón (via Moín), it's possible to reserve a seat on one of the tourist boats that travel between the two destinations, but advance planning is essential. Note that it may take 24 to 48 hours to secure transportation (around US$25 to either destination), as Parismina is not a regular stop. Call one of the boat companies in Moín or Tortuguero directly, or ask doña Amelia at Soda Rancho La Palma to help you book.

Parque Nacional Tortuguero

‘Humid’ is the driest word that could truthfully be used to describe Tortuguero, a 311-sq-km coastal park that serves as the most important breeding ground of the green sea turtle. With annual rainfall of up to 6000mm in the northern part of the park, it is one of the wettest areas in the country. In addition, the protected area extends into the Caribbean Sea, covering about 5200 sq km of marine habitat. In other words, plan on spending quality time in a boat.

The famed Canales de Tortuguero are the introduction to this park. Created to connect a series of lagoons and meandering rivers in 1974, this engineering marvel allowed inland navigation between Limón and coastal villages in something sturdier than a dugout canoe. Regular flights service the village of Tortuguero – but if you fly, you’ll be missing half the fun. The leisurely taxi-boat ride, through banana plantations and wild jungle, is equal parts recreation and transportation.

Most visitors come to watch sea turtles lay eggs on the wild beaches. The area attracts four of the world’s eight species of sea turtle, making it a crucial habitat for these massive reptiles. It will come as little surprise, then, that these hatching grounds gave birth to the sea-turtle-conservation movement. The Caribbean Conservation Corporation, the first program of its kind in the world, has continuously monitored turtle populations here since 1955. Today green sea turtles are increasing in numbers along this coast, but the leatherback, hawksbill and loggerhead are in decline.

The area, however, is more than just turtles: Tortuguero teems with wildlife. You’ll find sloths and howler monkeys in the treetops, tiny frogs and green iguanas scurrying among buttress roots, and mighty tarpons and endangered manatees swimming in the waters.

2Activities

Turtle-Watching

Most female turtles share a nesting instinct that drives them to return to the beach of their birth, or natal beach, in order to lay their eggs. (Only the leatherback returns to a more general region, instead of a specific beach.) During their lifetimes, they will usually nest every two to three years and, depending on the species, may come ashore to lay eggs 10 times in one season. Often, a turtle’s ability to successfully reproduce depends on the ecological health of this original habitat.

The female turtle digs a perfect cylindrical cavity in the sand using her flippers, and then lays 80 to 120 eggs. She diligently covers the nest with sand to protect the eggs, and she may even create a false nest in another location in an attempt to confuse predators. She then makes her way back to sea – after which the eggs are on their own. Incubation ranges from 45 to 70 days, after which hatchlings – no bigger than the size of your palm – break out of their shells using a caruncle, a temporary tooth. They crawl to the ocean in small groups, moving as quickly as possible to avoid dehydration and predators. Once they reach the surf, they must swim for at least 24 hours to get to deeper water, away from land-based predators.

Because of the sensitive nature of the habitat and the critically endangered status of some species, tours to see this activity are highly regulated. So as to not alarm turtles as they come to shore (a frightened turtle will return to the ocean and dump her eggs), tour groups gather in shelter sites close to the beach and a spotter relays a turtle’s location via radio once she has safely crossed the high-tide mark and built her nest. At this time, visitors can then go to the beach and watch the turtle lay her eggs, cover her nest and return to the ocean. Seeing a turtle is not guaranteed, but licensed guides will still make your tour worthwhile with the wealth of turtle information they'll share. By law, tours can only take place between 8am and midnight. Some guides will offer tours after midnight; these are illegal.

Visitors should wear closed-toe shoes and rain gear. Tours cost US$20 (a flat rate established by the village; at the time of writing, there was talk of raising this to US$25). This rate includes the purchase of a US$4 sticker that pays for the patrols that help protect the nesting sites from scavengers and looters. Nesting season runs from March to October, with July and August being prime time. The next best time is April, when leatherback turtles nest in small numbers. Flashlights and cameras are not allowed on the beach.

Other Wildlife-Watching

More than 300 bird species, both resident and migratory, have been recorded in Tortuguero – a bird-watchers' paradise. Due to the wet habitat, the park is especially rich in waders, including egrets, jacanas, 14 different types of heron, as well as species such as kingfishers, toucans and the great curassow (a type of jungle peacock known locally as the pavón). The great green macaw is a highlight, most common from December to April, when the almond trees are fruiting. In September and October, look for flocks of migratory species such as eastern kingbird, barn swallows and purple martins. The Sea Turtle Conservancy conducts a biannual monitoring program, in which volunteers can help scientists take inventory of local and migratory species.

Certain species of mammal are particularly evident in Tortuguero, especially mantled howler monkeys, the Central American spider monkey and white-faced capuchin. If you’ve got a good pair of binoculars and a good guide, you can usually see both two- and three-toed sloths. In addition, normally shy neotropical river otters are reasonably habituated to boats. Harder to spot are timid West Indian manatees. The park is also home to big cats such as jaguars and ocelots – but these are savvy, nocturnal animals and sightings are very rare.

Most wildlife-watching tours are done by boat. To get the best from Tortuguero, be on the water early or go out following a heavy rain, when all the wildlife comes out to sunbathe. It is also highly recommended to take tours by canoe or kayak – since these smaller, silent craft will allow you to get into the park’s less trafficked nooks and crannies.

Boating

Four aquatic trails wind their way through Parque Nacional Tortuguero, inviting waterborne exploration. Río Tortuguero acts as the entranceway to the network of trails. This wide, beautiful river is often covered with water lilies and frequented by aquatic birds such as herons, kingfishers and anhingas – the latter of which is known as the snakebird for the way its slim, winding neck pokes out of the water when it swims.

Caño Chiquero and Canõ Mora are two narrower waterways with good wildlife-spotting opportunities. According to park regulation, only kayaks, canoes and silent electric boats are allowed in these areas (a rule that is constantly violated by many area tour companies and lodges). Caño Chiquero is thick with vegetation, especially red guácimo trees and epiphytes. Black turtles and green iguanas like to hang out here. Caño Mora is about 3km long but only 10m wide, so it feels as if it’s straight out of The Jungle Book. Caño Harold is actually an artificially constructed canal, but that doesn’t stop the creatures – such as Jesus Christ lizards and caimans – from inhabiting its tranquil waters.

Canoe rental and boat tours are available in Tortuguero village.

Hiking

Behind Cuatro Esquinas station, El Gavilán Land Trail is the only public trail through the park that is on solid ground. Visitors can hike the muddy, 2km out-and-back trail that traverses the tropical humid forest and parallels a stretch of beach. Green parrots and several species of monkey are commonly sighted here. The short trail is well marked. Rubber boots are required (for rent at hotels and near the park entrance).

Park Admission Fees

A separate park admission fee is charged for each day you visit the national park. If you're planning multiple activities within the park, you can save a few colones by concentrating them in a single day; for example, if you go out on a boat tour in the early morning, then hike the El Gavilán Land Trail that same afternoon, you'll only pay the park admission fee once.

Information

Park headquarters is at Cuatro Esquinas ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2709-8086; park admission US$10; h6-7am, 7:30am-noon & 1-4pm), just south of Tortuguero village. This is a helpful ranger station, with maps and info.

Jalova Station (h6am-6pm) is on the canal at the south entrance to the national park, accessible from Parismina by boat. Tour boats from Moín often stop here for a picnic; you will find a short nature trail, bathroom, drinking water and rudimentary camping facilities that may or may not be open (and may or may not be flooded).

Getting There & Away

The park is a short walk south of the village of Tortuguero (the most common entry point) and also accessible by boat from Parismina.

Tortuguero Village

Located within the confines of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, accessible only by air or water, this bustling little village with strong Afro-Caribbean roots is best known for attracting hordes of sea turtles (the name Tortuguero means ‘turtle place’) – and the hordes of tourists who want to see them. While the peak turtle season is in July and August, the park and village have begun to attract travelers year-round. Even in October, when the turtles have pretty much returned to the sea, caravans of families and adventure travelers arrive to go on jungle hikes and to canoe the area’s lush canals.

2Activities

Volunteering

Sea Turtle ConservancyVOLUNTEERING

(formerly Caribbean Conservation Corporation; GOOGLE MAP ; %2709-8091, in USA 352-373-6441; www.conserveturtles.org; museum admission US$2)

About 200m north of the village, Tortuguero's original turtle-conservation organization operates a research station, visitor center and museum. Exhibits focus on all things turtle-related, including a 20-minute video about the history of local turtle conservation.

STC also runs a highly reputable environmental volunteer program. During nesting season, volunteers can assist with turtle tagging and egg counts, and during bird-migration seasons, help with mist-netting and point-counts. Volunteer fees (starting at US$1524) include accommodations, meals and transport to and from San José.

Canadian Organization for Tropical Education & Rainforest ConservationVOLUNTEERING

(COTERC; GOOGLE MAP ; %2709-8052; www.coterc.org)

This not-for-profit organization operates the Estación Biológica Caño Palma, 7km north of Tortuguero village. This small biological research station runs a volunteer program in which visitors can assist with upkeep of the station and ongoing research projects, including sea-turtle and bird monitoring and plant-diversity inventories. Volunteer fees start at US$250 per week and include accommodations in dormitory buildings and three meals per day. A two-week minimum commitment is required. Call ahead to arrange a visit.

Boating & Canoeing

Nonmotorized boat transport obviously offers the best chance of spotting wildlife while exploring the surrounding waterways. Numerous area businesses rent kayaks and canoes and offer boat tours.

Hiking

Hikers can follow the self-guided El Gavilán Land Trail (adjacent to Cuatro Esquinas ranger station); parallel the beach on the well-worn coastal trail north from the village to the airport; or walk the beach during daylight hours. Other hiking opportunities exist in and around the park but require the services of a guide. Inquire at the agencies listed under Tours. Note: night hiking in the national park is not allowed.

TTours

Guides have posted signs all over town advertising their services for canal tours and turtle walks. The two most dependable and convenient places to arrange tours are at local hotels and at the official Asociación de Guías de Tortuguero (%2767-0836; www.asoprotur.com) kiosk by the boat landing. Rates at the time of writing were US$20 per person for a two-hour turtle tour (possibly increasing to US$25), and US$20 to US$35 for a two- to three-hour boat tour. Other options include walking (US$20 to US$25), bird-watching (US$35) and fishing (US$65) tours. For more specialized guides, see the following list.

Tinamon ToursTOUR

(%8842-6561, 2709-8004; www.tinamontours.de)

Trained zoologist and 20-year Tortuguero resident Barbara Hartung offers hiking, canoe, cultural and turtle tours in German, English, French or Spanish.

Castor Hunter ThomasTOUR

(%8870-8634; http://castorhunter.blogspot.com; Soda Doña María)

Excellent local guide and 40-year Tortuguero resident who has led hikes, turtle tours and canoe tours for over 20 years. Contact Castor at Soda Doña María.

Ballard ExcursionsTOUR

(www.tortuguerovillage.com/ballardexcursions)

Ross Ballard, a Canadian with deep local roots, leads 3½-hour walking tours focusing on the biology and ecology of the species-rich rainforest at the foot of Cerro Tortuguero, the region's tallest hill.

Don Chico ToursTOUR

(%2709-8033)

Longtime local guide Chico offers both hiking and canoe tours; look for his sign just beyond Miss Miriam's restaurant (towards the beach on the north side of the soccer field).

4Sleeping

Tortuguero Village

In addition to places listed below, the village has a number of basic cabinas (cabins) charging US$18 and up for a double room.

oCasa MarbellaB&B

(%2709-8011, 8833-0827; http://casamarbella.tripod.com; incl breakfast s US$35-60, d US$40-65, extra person US$10; iW)

In the heart of the village, with a spacious and delightful canal-side deck, this B&B owned by naturalist Daryl Loth is easily Tortuguero's most appealing in-town option. Ten simple, well-lit rooms come with ceiling fans, superclean bathrooms and hearty breakfasts served overlooking the water.

Streetside rooms pick up some noise from Tortuguero's village bustle during daylight hours; reserve ahead for the three popular upstairs rooms (one facing the river). It's a two-minute walk north (left) from the village boat landing.

Princesa del MarCABINA

(%2709-8131; albertovr2206@hotmail.com; r per person US$10, incl breakfast US$15; Ws)

This oceanfront spot offers excellent value for budget travelers. A clapboard structure with 22 basic wood-and-concrete rooms faces an open garden with two pools (one for children), and there's an onsite restaurant with ocean views serving Caribbean-Tico cuisine. It's 50m east of the Guardia Rural post on main street, or about 100m up the beach from the soccer field.

Cabinas Miss Miriam IICABINA

(%8873-2671, 2709-8107; rojasmauricio45@yahoo.com; s/d with fan US$20/25, d with ocean-view terrace US$35, d with air-con US$40; W)

This beachside branch of Miss Miriam's budget cabinas has clean tiled rooms surrounding a small garden courtyard. All have firm mattresses and hot water, and a couple offer air-con. Best is the fan-and-breeze-cooled front room with its own ocean-view terrace. Breakfast costs US$5 extra per person. It's south of the soccer field, 25m east of the Adventist church.

La CasonaCABINA

(%2709-8092, 2709-8047; lacasonadetortuguero@yahoo.com; s/d US$18/25, d with kitchenette US$35; W)

Ten cute cement rooms with rustic touches surround a garden at this family-run spot. Three units have kitchenettes with hot plates. It has a pleasant restaurant that serves Caribbean and Italian meals, and the managers can help arrange tours. It's on the north side of the soccer field.

Hotel Miss JunieCABINA

(%2709-8102; www.iguanaverdetours.com; incl breakfast s/d standard US$45/50, superior US$55/65; W)

Tortuguero's longest-established lodging, Miss Junie’s place is set on spacious palm-shaded grounds strewn with hammocks and wooden armchairs. Spotless wood-paneled rooms in a nicely kept tropical plantation-style building are tastefully decorated with wood accents and bright bedspreads. Upstairs rooms share a breezy balcony overlooking the canal. It's at the northern end of the town's main street.

North of the Village

Most of the lodges north and west of the village cater to high-end travelers on package deals, though most will accept walk-ins (er, boat-ins) if they aren’t full. Multinight packages typically include accommodations, three meals daily, boat and walking tours and transport to/from San José. Note that Mawamba Lodge and Laguna Lodge are on the same peninsula as Tortuguero Village, so you can walk or boat into town. Other lodges lie across the canal and are only accessible by boat or water taxi.

Toucan & Tarpon LodgeCABINAS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8524-1804; www.toucanandtarpon.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$30/40/45/50)

Just across the river from Tortuguero village, this place was opened in late 2013 by Canadian expatriates Jeff and Sue. Three simple cabinas with solar electricity and Guatemalan textiles sleep between two and four. Other amenities include delicious homemade breakfasts, a communal kitchen with well-stocked spice cabinet, free canoe use and excellent wildlife-spotting (monkeys, sloths, toucans) in the surrounding trees.

oRana RojaLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2223-1926, 2709-8260; www.tortugueroranaroja.com; r/cabins per person incl breakfast US$40/45, r or cabins per person incl 3 meals US$60; iWs)

This Tico-run spot is one of Tortuguero's best value places, especially for solo travelers. Twelve immaculate rooms and five cabins with private terraces and rockers are connected by elevated walkways; all have tile floors, hot showers and awesome jungle views. Free kayaks are available onsite and guests can make use of the pool at the adjacent Evergreen Lodge.

Turtle Beach LodgeLODGE

(%2248-0707, after hours 8837-6969; www.turtlebeachlodge.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$299/90; is)S

Surrounded by 70 hectares of tropical gardens and rainforest, Tortuguero's northernmost lodge (8km outside the village) is flanked by beach and river. Spacious wood cabins have tile floors, hardwood furniture and huge screened windows. Guests can explore the onsite network of jungle trails, kayak the adjacent canal, or lounge around the turtle-shaped pool or thatch-roofed hammock hut.

Tortuga Lodge & GardensLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2521-6099, 2257-0766; www.tortugalodge.com; r US$138-238, 2-night package per adult/child US$548/348; Ws)

This elegant lodge, operated by Costa Rica Expeditions, is set amid 20 serene hectares of private gardens, directly across the canal from Tortuguero's airstrip. The 27 demure rooms channel a 19th-century safari vibe, with creamy linens, handmade textiles, vintage photos and broad terraces that invite lounging. The grounds come equipped with private trails and a riverside pool, bar and restaurant.

Evergreen LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2222-6841; evergreentortuguero.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$258/129; Ws)

One of three hotels operated by the Pachira group, this pleasant place has a more rustic, less resorty feel than its counterparts, with 60 newly remodeled rooms and private bungalows surrounded by jungle greenery. Guests have access to a sunny pool area, Tortuguero's only canopy tour (US$30), free use of kayaks and an upstairs bar overlooking the river.

Laguna LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2272-4943, in USA 888-259-5615; www.lagunatortuguero.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$299/150; Ws)

This expansive lodge, liberally decorated with gorgeous mosaic art and trim, has 110 graceful rooms with high ceilings and wide decks lined with Sarchí-made leather rocking chairs. It also has a restaurant, two bars (canal-side and poolside), a massage room, a soccer pitch and a Gaudí-esque reception area.

Pachira LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2257-2242, 2256-6340; www.pachiralodge.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$299/150; Ws)

A sprawling compound set on 5 landscaped hectares of land, this 88-room hotel with turtle-shaped pool is a popular family spot. Pristine, brightly painted clapboard bungalows with shared terraces house blocks of rooms that sleep up to four. Cribs and children’s beds are available.

Mawamba LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2293-8181, 2709-8181; www.mawamba.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$299/150; Ws)

With pool tables, foosball, a mosaic swimming pool, and butterfly and frog gardens, this lodge sits between the canal and Tortuguero's main turtle-nesting beach, within walking distance of town. Simple wood-paneled rooms have firm beds, good fans and spacious bathrooms with hot water. All are fronted by wide verandas with hammocks and rocking chairs.

Hotel Aninga & SpaLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2222-6840, 2222-6841; www.aningalodgetortuguero.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$299/150; Ws)

One of the trio of lodges run by the Pachira Group, this place 1km north of the village has similar grounds and facilities to the adjacent Pachira Lodge, along with Tortuguero's only spa. Nonguests can make appointments for massages (US$40 to US$80) and other treatments here.

5Eating

oTaylor's PlaceCARIBBEAN

(mains US$7-10; h6-8:30pm)

Low-key atmosphere and high-quality cooking come together beautifully at this backstreet eatery southwest of the soccer field. The inviting garden setting, with chirping insects, and picnic benches spread under colorful paper lanterns, is rivaled only by friendly chef Ray Taylor's culinary artistry. House specialties include beef in tamarind sauce, grilled fish in garlic sauce, and fruit drinks both alcoholic and otherwise.

Sunrise RestaurantCARIBBEAN

(mains US$4-8; h9:30am-9pm Wed-Mon)

Between the boat dock and the national park, this cozy log-cabin-like place will lure you in with the delicious smoky aroma of its grilled chicken and pork ribs, but it also serves breakfast and a full Caribbean menu at lunch and dinnertime, at some of the best prices in town.

Miss Miriam’sCARIBBEAN

(mains US$9.50; h8am-9pm)

This little place on the north side of the soccer field dishes out flavorful local food, including pork chops, fish and well-spiced Caribbean chicken.

Soda Doña MaríaCOSTA RICAN

(%8870-8634; dishes US$5-8; h7:30am-8pm)

Recover from a hike in the park at this riverside soda, serving jugos (juices), burgers and casados. It’s about 200m north of the park entrance.

Miss Junie’sCARIBBEAN

(%2709-8029; mains US$13-20; h7-9am, noon-2pm & 6-9pm)

Over the years, Tortuguero’s best-known eatery has grown from a personal kitchen to a full-blown restaurant. Prices have climbed accordingly, but the menu remains true to its roots: chicken, fish and whole lobster cooked in flavorful Caribbean sauces, with coconut rice and beans. It's at the northern end of the main street.

Wild GingerFUSION

(%2709-8240; www.wildgingercr.com; mains US$8-26; hnoon-9pm)

Run by a Tico-Californian couple, this low-lit spot near the beach north of town specializes in fusion cuisine incorporating fresh local ingredients, such as lobster mango ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon or lime juice, garlic and seasonings), Caribbean beef stew and passionfruit crème brûlée. It's 150m north of the elementary school.

Budda CafeEUROPEAN

(mains US$7-10, pizzas US$9-20; hnoon-8:30pm; v)

Ambient club music and stenciled ‘om’ symbols impart a hipster vibe to this cafe between the main road and the river. It’s a pleasant setting for pizzas, cocktails and crepes (savory and sweet). Grab a table outside for a prime view of the yellow-bellied flycatchers zipping across the water.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La CulebraBAR

(h8pm-close)

Next to the public dock in the center of town, this bright-purple nightclub – Tortuguero's one and only – plays thumping music and serves beer and bocas right on the canal.

La Taberna Punto de EncuentroBAR

(h11am-11pm)

Adjacent to the Super Bambú pulpería (corner store), this popular tavern is mellow in the afternoons but draws the party people after dark with cold beer and blaring reggaetón. The highlight, however, is the life-size statue of Jar Jar Binks.

Information

The community's website, Tortuguero Village (www.tortuguerovillage.com), is a solid source of information, listing local businesses and providing comprehensive directions on how to get to Tortuguero.

There are no banks or ATMs in town and only a few businesses accept credit cards, so bring all the cash you’ll need. Several local accommodations have internet connections, but these can be iffy, especially during heavy rains.

Centro de Información Turístico PNTTOURIST INFORMATION

(h6am-6:30pm)

Immediately to the left of the boat landing; staffed by members of the local tour guides' association.

Getting There & Away

If you're coming from San José, the two most convenient ways to get to Tortuguero are by air or all-inclusive bus-boat shuttles – though budget travelers can save money by taking public transit.

If coming from the southern Caribbean, your best bets are the private boat operators from Moín (just outside Puerto Limón) or shuttle deals from Cahuita and Puerto Viejo.

Air

The small airstrip is 4km north of Tortuguero village. Nature Air (%2299-6000; www.natureair.com) has early-morning flights daily to/from San José and twice weekly to La Fortuna. Charter flights land regularly here as well.

Bus & Boat

The classic public-transit route to Tortuguero is by bus from San José to Cariari to La Pavona, then by boat from La Pavona to Tortuguero. Alternatively, Tortuguero is accessible by private boat from Moín, near Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast.

From San José/Cariari

From San José, take the 6:10am, 9am or 10:30am bus to Cariari (three hours) from Gran Terminal del Caribe. In Cariari, you will arrive at a bus station at the south end of town (known as the estación nueva). From here, walk or take a taxi 500m north to the estación vieja (old station), otherwise referred to as the Terminal Caribeño. Here you can catch a local Coopetraca bus (US$2.20, 6am, 9am, 11:30am and 3pm) to La Pavona, where you'll transfer onto the boat (US$3.20 to US$4) to Tortuguero.

On the return trip, boats leave Tortuguero for La Pavona daily at 5:30am, 9am, 11am and 2:45pm, connecting with Cariari-bound buses at the La Pavona dock.

From Moín

Moín–Tortuguero is primarily a tourist route. While there isn’t a scheduled service, boats do ply these canals frequently. When running, boats typically depart at 10am in either direction, charging US$30 to US$40 for the three- to five-hour trip. With advance notice, these same boats can stop in Parismina (one way from either Tortuguero or Moín US$25). Bear in mind that it may take 24 to 48 hours to secure transportation – especially in the low season. For onward transportation beyond Moín, catch a local bus (US$0.60, 20 minutes) to Puerto Limón's bus terminal.

Tropical Wind (%8327-0317, 2798-6059) and Viajes Bananero (%2709-8005; per person 1-way US$35) are two Tortuguero-based agencies that make the run regularly. Alternatively, you can make arrangements with companies operating out of Puerto Limón.

Shuttle Services

If you prefer to leave the planning to someone else, convenient shuttle services can whisk you to Tortuguero from San José, Arenal-La Fortuna or the southern Caribbean coast in just a few hours. Shuttle companies typically offer minivan service to La Pavona or Moín, where waiting boats take you the rest of the way to Tortuguero. This is a relatively inexpensive, hassle-free option, as you only have to buy a single ticket, and guides help you negotiate the van-to-boat transfer.

Jungle Tom Safaris (%2221-7878; www.jungletomsafaris.com) Offers one-way shuttles between Tortuguero and San José (US$17), Cahuita (US$39), Puerto Viejo (US$39) and Arenal-La Fortuna (US$55), as well as all-inclusive day trips (US$99), overnight packages (from US$120) and two-night packages (from US$152).

Caribe Shuttle (%8849-7600, 2750-0626; http://caribeshuttle.com/from-tortuguero) Shuttles from Puerto Viejo (US$65) and Arenal-La Fortuna (US$55).

Willie's Tours Shuttles from Cahuita (US$65).

Terraventuras Shuttles from Puerto Viejo (US$65).

Gecko Trail Shuttles from Puerto Viejo and Cahuita (US$70 each).

Ride CR (%2479-9833; www.ridecr.com) Shuttles from Arenal-La Fortuna (US$55).

Riverboat Francesca Nature Tours (%2226-0986; www.tortuguerocanals.com) Shuttles from San José to Tortuguero via Moín (US$75, including lunch) as well as package deals including accommodation.

Exploradores Outdoors (%2222-6262; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) More expensive package deals that include transport from San José, Puerto Viejo or Arenal-La Fortuna, a mid-journey Río Pacuare rafting trip, and accommodations in Tortuguero.

GETTING TO SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA

If you're planning to head further into Nicaragua, you can make arrangements with your lodge for a water taxi to take you to the border town of San Juan del Norte – now called San Juan de Nicaragua (or Greytown). It’s a tranquil village, with few services but an interesting history. At various times over the centuries, it has been under the control of Miskito people, Spanish colonists, British troops and even US Marines. Much of it was destroyed during the Contra-Sandinista conflict of the 1980s.

This is a little-used border crossing, however, so don’t make the trip without first checking in with Costa Rican immigration officials (%in Puerto Limón 2798-2097, in San José 2299-8100). Barra del Colorado does not have an immigration office of its own, so you may need to secure an exit stamp prior to arriving there.

In San Juan de Nicaragua, Río Indio Ecolodge (%2231-4299, 2220-3594; www.therioindiolodge.com; s/d incl meals US$200/336; is) has 34 spacious polished-wood rooms, a restaurant and bar. Fishing is the thing to do, but you can also go hiking or kayaking.

San Juan is linked to the rest of Nicaragua by irregular passenger boats sailing up the Río San Juan to San Carlos, on the Lago de Nicaragua.

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado

At 904 sq km, including the frontier zone with Nicaragua, Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado, or ‘Barra’ for short, is the biggest national wildlife refuge in Costa Rica. It is also one of the most remote – more so since Costa Rica's commercial airlines suspended service to the area in 2009. This means that the only way to get to Barra is via local bus-boat transportation from Cariari, charter boat from Tortuguero or charter flight from San José.

The area has long been a favorite of sportfishers, who arrive to hook gar, tarpon and snook. But those who aren’t into fishing will be rewarded with incredible landscape. The Ríos San Juan, Colorado and Chirripó all wind through the refuge and out to the Caribbean Sea – through a soggy wetland habitat made up of marshes, mangroves and lagoons. Here, you’ll find West Indian manatees, caimans, monkeys, tapirs and three-toed sloths, plus a riotous bird population that includes everything from keel-billed toucans to white hawks. There are countless species of water bird.

The northern border of the refuge is the Río San Juan, the border with Nicaragua (many local residents are Nicaraguan nationals). This area was politically sensitive during the 1980s, due to the Nicaraguan conflict. Today, however, it's possible to journey north along the Río Sarapiquí and east along the Río San Juan, technically entering Nicaragua. While Costa Ricans have right of use, foreign travelers should carry a passport and the official US$25 permit fee when out fishing.

The village of Barra del Colorado lies near the mouth of the Río Colorado and is divided by the river into Barra del Norte and Barra del Sur. The airstrip is on the south side, but more people live along the north side. The area outside the village is swampy and there are no roads; travel is almost exclusively by boat.

2Activities

Fishing is the bread and butter of area lodges, and anglers go for tarpon from January to June and snook from September to December. Fishing is good year-round, however, and other catches include barracuda, mackerel and jack crevalle, all inshore; or bluegill, guapote (rainbow bass) and machaca in the rivers. There is also deep-sea fishing for marlin, sailfish and tuna, though this is probably better on the Pacific. Dozens of fish can be hooked on a good day, so ‘catch and release’ is an important conservation policy of all the lodges.

All of the lodges can also organize custom wildlife-watching excursions along mangroves, lagoons and canals (from US$40).

4Sleeping & Eating

Places listed below are all west of the airstrip, on the south side of the river. Tarpon Land Lodge is accessible on foot. Other lodges will have a boat waiting when you arrive with prior reservation. There are also a few basic family-run cabinas between the airstrip and the beach, charging US$25 to US$40 per night.

Tarpon Land LodgeCABINA

(%8818-9921; tarponlandlodge@hotmail.com; s/d US$20/24, with sportfishing & full board US$350/550; s)

Situated right next to the airstrip, this is Barra's most dependable budget option. The 16 worn wood rooms have hot showers, while the attached restaurant-bar is a local gathering spot and a good place for fish casados (mains from US$6).

Río Colorado LodgeLODGE

(%2232-4063, in USA 800-243-9777; www.riocoloradolodge.com; r per person incl 3 meals US$175, incl 3 meals, 8hr fishing trip & happy hour US$550; aW)

Owned by a retired Mississippi lawyer, this 18-room lodge is housed in a rambling tropical-style building with breezy rooms connected by covered walkways, a pool table and an outdoor deck with satellite TV. Its bar, within walking distance of the landing strip, attracts a local crowd, and regular afternoon happy hours have reinforced its reputation as a ‘party lodge.’

Silver King LodgeLODGE

(%2794-0139, in USA 877-335-0755; www.silverkinglodge.com; 3-day package per person US$2750-3960; ais)

This excellent sportfishing lodge caters to couples and families. Huge hardwood rooms have cane ceilings and lots of amenities. Outside, covered walkways lead to a large swimming pool and jacuzzi. Bounteous meals are served buffet-style and an open-air bar whips up tropical drinks. Rates include equipment, fishing license and air transport to and from San José.

Information

A couple of pulperías and a souvenir shop alongside the landing strip sell basic food supplies and dry goods. There is a public phone and patchy internet access. The Servicio de Parques Nacionales (SPN) maintains a small ranger station (refuge admission US$10, 60-day freshwater fishing license US$30; h6am-6pm) west of the village, in Barra del Sur. However, there are no facilities here. Bring exact change to pay for your entry fee, as the rangers rarely have change.

Getting There & Away

Public bus-boat transportation from Cariari is the cheapest transport option. Take the 4am or 2pm bus from Cariari to Puerto Lindo (US$5, 2½ hours), then transfer to the boat for Barra del Colorado (US$6, 45 minutes). Return boats from Barra del Colorado to Puerto Lindo leave at 5am and 3pm.

An alternative, more scenic way to reach Barra del Colorado is by chartering a boat from Tortuguero. The 90-minute trip costs upwards of US$100 (price varies depending on gas prices, season and number of passengers). A recommended guide is Roberto Abram (%8818-8749), who can be contacted through Casa Marbella in Tortuguero village; he also leads local river trips originating in Barra del Colorado.

Otherwise, most folks get here on air charters from San José arranged by the individual lodges.

Southern Caribbean

The southern coast is the heart and soul of Costa Rica’s Afro-Caribbean community. Jamaican workers arrived in the middle of the 19th century to build the railroad and then stayed on to serve as labor for United Fruit. After the banana industry began its decline in the 1920s, government-mandated segregation kept the black community here. For more than eight decades, they existed independently of the rest of Costa Rica, managing subsistence farms, speaking English and Mekatelyu, eating spicy Caribbean gumbos and swaying to the beat of calypso. Although the racial borders fell in 1949, the local culture retains its unique traditions.

Also in this area, to the interior, are some of the country’s most prominent indigenous groups – cultures that have managed to remain intact despite several centuries’ worth of incursions, first from the Spanish, later from the fruit industry and currently from the globalizing effects of tourism. They principally inhabit the Cocles/Kèköldi, Talamanca Cabécar and Bribrí indigenous territories.

Naturally, this fascinating cultural bubble wouldn’t remain isolated forever. Since the 1980s the southern coast has seen the arrival of surfers, backpackers and adventurous families on holiday – many of whom have stayed, adding Italian, German and North American inflections to the cultural stew. For the traveler, it is a rich and rewarding experience – with lovely beaches to boot.

Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere

One of Costa Rica's most rugged and rarely visited reserves, Hitoy-Cerere (%2795-3170; admission US$6; h8am-4pm) is only about 60km south of Puerto Limón. The 99-sq-km reserve sits on the edge of the Cordillera de Talamanca, characterized by varying altitudes, evergreen forests and rushing rivers. This may be one of the wettest reserves in the parks system, inundated with 4000mm to 6000mm of rain annually.

Naturally, wildlife is abundant. The most commonly sighted mammals include gray four-eyed opossums, tayras (a type of weasel), and howler and capuchin monkeys. There are plenty of ornithological delights as well (with more than 230 avian species), including keel-billed toucans, spectacled owls, green kingfishers and the ubiquitous Montezuma oropendola, whose massive nests dangle from the trees like twiggy pendulums. The moisture, in the meantime, keeps the place hopping with various species of poison-dart frog.

The reserve is surrounded by some of the country’s most remote indigenous reserves, which you can visit with a local guide.

Although there is a ranger station with bathrooms at the reserve entrance, there are no other facilities nearby. A 9km trail leads south to a waterfall, but it is steep, slippery and poorly maintained. Jungle boots are recommended.

Getting There & Away

By car (4WD recommended) from Puerto Limón, head south to Penshurst. Just south of the Río Estrella bridge, head west on the signed road to Valle de la Estrella. Another sign at the bus stop sends you down a dirt road about 15km to the reserve.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

A STAY IN THE FOREST: SELVA BANANITO

One of the Caribbean's most inspiring and appealing ecotourism ventures is this rustic but comfortable family-run farm and lodge (%2253-8118, 8375-4419; www.selvabananito.com; s/d incl breakfast from US$85/100, incl full board from US$130/200, incl transport from Bananito, meals & daily activities from US$180/320, 2-night package incl transport from San José, meals & daily activities US$475/860; p). Gorgeously situated on the edge of Parque Internacional La Amistad, the 1700-hectare private reserve occupies a transitional zone between farmland and primary growth forest, transected by the headwaters of the Río Bananito and teeming with wildlife.

Above all, this is an environmentally conscious spot: the Stein family has owned this property for over 40 years, and has dedicated the last three decades to developing sustainable ecotourism and wise land-management practices. Major projects funded by tourism dollars include education of the local community about ecological issues, protection of the Río Banano and Bananito watersheds (which provide 100% of Puerto Limón's drinking water), reforestation with native species, and efforts to establish a wildlife corridor that will eventually allow jaguars to move freely between Parque Internacional La Amistad and the Caribbean coast.

The onsite lodge employs solar energy and uses biodegradable soaps and cleaning products. Comfortable cabins are all crafted from recycled hardwoods and constructed Caribbean-style, on stilts, for optimum ventilation, and three delicious home-cooked meals are included in the daily rates. Packages include transfers from San José, as well as your choice of activities, including birdwatching, waterfall tours, horseback riding, rappeling and tree-climbing.

If you are driving yourself, note that the last 4km of the route requires river crossings and is 4WD only. Selva Bananito staff can meet you at the first big river if you call ahead. Detailed driving directions are posted online.

Cahuita

Pop 8300

Even as tourism has mushroomed on Costa Rica’s southern coast, Cahuita has managed to hold onto its laid-back Caribbean vibe. The roads are made of dirt, many of the older houses rest on stilts and chatty neighbors still converse in Mekatelyu. A graceful black-sand beach and a chilled-out demeanor hint at a not-so-distant past, when the area was little more than a string of cacao farms.

Cahuita proudly claims the area’s first permanent Afro-Caribbean settler: a turtle fisherman named William Smith, who moved his family to Punta Cahuita in 1828. Now his descendants, along with those of so many other West Indian immigrants, run the backyard eateries and brightly painted bungalows that hug this idyllic stretch of coast.

Situated on a pleasant point, the town itself has a waterfront but no beach. For that, most folks make the five-minute jaunt up the coast to Playa Negra or southeast into neighboring Parque Nacional Cahuita.

1Sights & Activities

Cahuita

1Top Sights

1Playa NegraC3

1Sights

2Tree of LifeA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Cahuita ToursE1

4Centro Turístico BrigitteC3

5Mister Big J'sE2

6Roberto's ToursF2

7Willie's ToursE1

4Sleeping

8Alby LodgeF3

9Bungalows AchéF3

10Cabinas AlgebraB2

11Cabinas IguanaC3

12Cabinas NirvanaC3

13Cabinas RiversideF3

14Cabinas Secret GardenF3

15Cabinas Smith 1 & 2E1

16Cabinas TitoD3

17Cahuita National Park HotelF2

18Camping MaríaC2

19Casa MarcellinoD3

Centro Turístico BrigitteC3

20Ciudad PerdidaE3

21Coral Hill BungalowsC3

22El Encanto B&BD3

23Hotel Suizo Loco LodgeB2

24Kelly Creek HotelF2

25Kenaki LodgeA1

26La Piscina NaturalB2

27Playa Negra GuesthouseC3

28Spencer Seaside LodgingF1

5Eating

29Cafe Chocolatte 100% NaturalE2

30CocoricóE2

31Luisa Steak HouseE1

32Miss Edith'sE1

33Pizzeria CahuITAE1

34Reggae RestaurantC3

35Restaurant La FéE2

36Smoothie Bar & Crêpe CaféE2

37Sobre Las OlasD3

38Soda KaweF2

6Drinking & Nightlife

39Coco's BarE2

40Riki'sE2

41SplashE2

oPlaya NegraBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

At the northwest end of Cahuita, Playa Negra is a long, black-sand beach flying the bandera azul ecológica, a flag that indicates the beach is kept to the highest ecological standards. This is undoubtedly Cahuita’s top spot for swimming and is never crowded. When the swells are big, this place also has an excellent beach break for beginners.

Playa BlancaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

At the entrance to the national park. A good option for swimming.

Tree of LifeGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0014, 8610-0490; www.treeoflifecostarica.com; adult/child US$12/6, guided tour US$15-20; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov–mid-Apr, daily tour 11am Jul & Aug, closed mid-Apr–Jun & Sep-Oct)

This lovingly maintained wildlife center and botanical garden 3km northwest of town on the Playa Negra road rescues and rehabilitates animals while also promoting conservation through education. The rotating cast of residents typically includes kinkajous, peccaries, sloths, monkeys and toucans. There's excellent English-language signage throughout. It's also possible to volunteer here; see the website for information.

Sloth Sanctuary of Costa RicaWILDLIFE RESERVE

(formerly Aviarios del Caribe; %2750-0775; www.slothsanctuary.com; 2hr group tour adult/child 5-11yr US$25/15, private half-day tour per person US$150; h8am-2pm Tue-Sun)

About 10km northwest of Cahuita, bordering the Río Estrella, the Arroyo family runs this private 88-hectare wildlife sanctuary dedicated to caring for injured and orphaned sloths. Visitors can observe these unique animals up close on group or private tours. (Irrefutable fact: there is nothing cuter than a baby sloth.) Though many of the reserve's rehabilitated sloths lack the skills to return to the wild, the Arroyos have successfully released more than 100 of them back into area forests.

TTours

Snorkeling, horseback riding, chocolate tours and visits to nearby indigenous territories are standard offerings.

Willie's ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8917-6982, 2755-1024; www.williestourscostarica.com; h8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 5-7pm Sun)

A full-service tour agency that can also arrange further-flung tours and transport.

Centro Turístico BrigitteHORSE RIDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0053; www.brigittecahuita.com; Playa Negra)

Does it all, but specializes in horseback tours (90 minutes to six hours, US$40 to US$85) and surf lessons (US$30 including use of board); check website or stop by in person for full details.

Cahuita ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0101; www.cahuitatours.com)

One of the most established agencies in town.

Mister Big J’sTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0060, 8887-4695; h8am-7:30pm)

Offers the usual range of tours.

Roberto's ToursFISHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0117; aventurasrobertocr@yahoo.com)

Specializes in sportfishing tours and has a restaurant for cooking up your catch.

4Sleeping

There are two general areas to stay in Cahuita: the town center (which can be a little noisy) or north of town along Playa Negra. If walking between Playa Negra and the center at night, don't carry valuables; better yet, bike or take a taxi, especially if traveling alone.

Center

Cabinas Secret GardenCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0581; koosiecosta@live.nl; dm/s/d US$10/18/25; pW)

This tiny Dutch-run place with a lush garden has five tiled units with fans, mosquito nets and hot-water showers in cubicle-style bathrooms, plus one five-bed dorm with cold showers. There's also a nice shared kitchen with free coffee.

Cabinas RiversideCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8893-2252; d with/without kitchen US$27/23; p)

Managed by friendly Cahuita local Peck Ferguson and family, this tidy budget place just around the corner from Kelly Creek ranger station offers nine simple rooms with mosquito nets and hot showers; five units also come with kitchens. The grassy yard abuts a swampy area perfect for spotting caimans, monkeys and sloths.

Cahuita National Park HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0244; hotelnationalpark03@gmail.com; s or d US$45, tr or q US$60; paW)

The hotel-style rooms here are large and bare, with dowdy brown curtains and industrial tile floors, but you still might be tempted by the prime location right at the national-park entrance. Beach and ocean views from the upstairs terrace (and several rooms) are spectacular.

Cabinas Smith 1 & 2CABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0068; s/d/tr with fan US$12/16/21, s/d/tr/q with air-con US$25/31/36/46; paW)

These clean rooms spanning two properties between the main drag and the waterfront are run by a friendly older couple with deep local roots. Eight newer units adjacent to the owners' home have TV, air-con and wi-fi; five older fan-cooled units around the corner are primarily of interest to the seriously budget-minded. All share a guest kitchen.

Spencer Seaside LodgingCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0027; s/d downstairs US$16/26, upstairs US$20/30; p)

Rooms at this longtime, locally owned spot are rough around the edges but big – and nothing at this price level can match the seaside setting within two blocks of the town center. Upstairs units have better views, as well as a shared terrace strung with hammocks.

oAlby LodgeBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0031; www.albylodge.com; d/tr/q US$60/65/70; pW)

This fine German-run lodge on the edge of the park has spacious landscaped grounds that attract howler monkeys and birds. Four raised bungalows (two sleeping three people, two sleeping four) are spread out, allowing for plenty of privacy. High ceilings, mosquito nets and driftwood details make for pleasant jungle decor. A common rancho (thatched gazebo) has excellent communal kitchen facilities.

Kelly Creek HotelCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0007; www.hotelkellycreek.com; s/d US$50/60, extra person US$10; pW)

At this place just outside the national-park entrance, you may be serenaded by the dulcet squawks of the resident parrot; draw closer and find four graceful natural-wood cabinas with high ceilings, cream-colored linens and mosquito nets. Local artwork adorns the reception area, and the onsite restaurant (open from 6pm) serves paella with advance notice (US$16 per person, minimum two people).

Bungalows AchéBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0119; www.bungalowsache.com; bungalow s US$45, d US$50-55; pW)

In Nigeria, Aché means ‘Amen,’ and you’ll likely say the same thing when you see these three spotless polished-wood bungalows nestled into a grassy yard bordering the national park. Each octagonal unit comes with a lockbox, minifridge, kettle and small private deck with hammock. A three-bedroom vacation house (doubles US$70, up to seven people US$120) is available 1km inland.

Ciudad PerdidaBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0303; www.ciudadperdidaecolodge.com; d standard/superior incl breakfast US$106/127, q US$212; paW)S

In a shady, peaceful spot bordering the national park but only a five-minute walk from Cahuita's town center, this eco-conscious lodge offers cute one- and two-room, candy-colored wood bungalows surrounded by landscaped gardens. All include hammocks, ceiling fans, refrigerators and safe boxes. One house has a Jacuzzi, three have kitchens and all have cable TV.

Playa Negra

Cabinas TitoBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8880-1904, 2755-0286; www.cahuita-cabinas-tito.com; d with/without hot water US$30/25, additional person US$10, 4-person houses US$70; pW)

Only 200m northwest of Cahuita, yet surrounded by extensive tropical gardens and banana plants, this quiet family-run oasis offers seven brightly painted, clean and simple casitas (one with kitchen) plus a family-friendly Caribbean-style house. Tito, the kind and charming young Tico (Costa Rican) host, is a recent university graduate who's actively seeking to create habitat for birds, frogs and other wildlife.

Cabinas AlgebraBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0057; www.cabinasalgebra.com; bungalows US$20-35; pW)

This long-time German-Swiss-run place has three rustic hammock-equipped cabins tucked into a peaceful backyard garden at Playa Negra's northern end. The spacious, inviting front deck doubles as a restaurant and common area, with wood floors, books, games and wi-fi. It’s 2km northwest of Cahuita, but the owners offer free bus-station pickup with advance notice.

Centro Turístico BrigitteCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0053; www.brigittecahuita.com; cabinas US$30-50, s without bathroom US$15; piW)

Behind Reggae Restaurant in the heart of Playa Negra, this well-signed backstreet spot offers a couple of basic wood cabinas and two private single rooms. However, the big draw here is the bevy of services offered by Swiss expatriate owner Brigitte (a 30-year Cahuita resident): surf classes, bike rentals, horseback rides, tours, laundry service and a good onsite restaurant.

Camping MaríaCAMPGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0091; mmizell12@hotmail.com; campsites per person US$6, incl tent rental US$7; W)

Seven sweet and well-spaced campsites share a gorgeous section of waterfront near the northern end of Playa Negra, shaded by coconut palms and a variety of fruit trees. Campers have access to rudimentary cooking facilities, two bathrooms with cold-water showers and an upstairs library and recreation room with guitar and pool table. María brews free morning coffee for everyone.

Cabinas IguanaCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0005; http://cabinas-iguana.com/en; d bungalow US$45-55, d without bathroom US$25; pWs)

Set back from the beach on the road marked by the Reggae Restaurant, this Tico-family-run spot features rather faded but nicely shaded simple wood cabins of various sizes, all nestled into forested grounds with abundant wildlife.

oPlaya Negra GuesthouseBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0127; www.playanegra.cr; s/d US$70/85, cottages US$110-160; pWs)

Managed by a delightful Québecois couple, this meticulously maintained place offers three charming rooms in a Caribbean-style plantation house, complemented by three kitchen-equipped storybook cottages. Tropical accents include colorful mosaics in the bathrooms and cozy wicker lounge furniture on the private verandas. A lovely pool, honor bar and barbecue area are tucked into the well-manicured garden dotted with fan palms.

Every unit has thoughtful and homey touches, including a minifridge and coffeemaker, and the staff go out of their way to help guests explore the area. A winner all around.

La Piscina NaturalCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0146; piscinanatural@cahuita.cr; d/tr US$45/60; pWs)

Run by Cahuita native Walter and former Colorado schooteacher Patty, this chilled-out gem of a spot near Playa Negra's northern end is a self-proclaimed 'Caribbean Paradise'. The rooms, which share access to a huge kitchen and open-air lounge, are comfortable enough, but what really make this place special are the lush grounds, gorgeous waterfront and stunning, rock-fringed natural ocean-water pool.

Cabinas NirvanaCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0110; www.cabinasnirvana.com; d US$30, cottages US$45-85; aWs)

Eight cabinas come in a variety of configurations at this tranquil garden spot surrounding a pool, just inland from the Reggae Restaurant. Five units have kitchens, one has air-con and all have pleasant sitting areas on private front porches. There's also one cheaper room for budget travelers. Friendly Portuguese-German owners Yolanda and Sepp rent bikes for easy access to town.

Casa MarcellinoCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0390; http://casamarcellino.com; d US$85-96, q US$102-113; W)

In a peaceful garden setting, just inland down a side road between Cahuita and Playa Negra, you'll find this Italian-run cluster of spotless wood cabins with fully equipped kitchens. More expensive units have large bathtubs, plus spacious porches with hammocks and retractable awnings.

El Encanto B&BB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0113; www.elencantocahuita.com; incl breakfast s/d US$75/85, d studio/ste US$105/200, extra person US$25; pWs)

This pleasant French-and-Spanish-owned B&B, only about 200m northwest of downtown Cahuita, is set in landscaped grounds dotted with easy chairs and hammocks. Demure bungalows have high ceilings, tile floors and firm beds draped in colorful textiles. The studio and a brand-new upstairs apartment both have fully equipped kitchens.

Hotel Suizo Loco LodgeBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0349; www.suizolocolodge.com; incl breakfast s/d/tr US$85/115/165, ste d/tr US$140/203; pWs)

Ten immaculate, whitewashed bungalows have king-size beds and folk-art decor at this serene family-friendly lodge (cribs available). All units have safe, mini-fridge, solar-heated showers and small, private terraces. The perfectly landscaped grounds contain an impressive mosaic-tile pool with a swim-up bar. It's along the road forking off the main Playa Negra road about 2km northwest of Cahuita.

Coral Hill BungalowsBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0479, 2755-0554; www.coralhillbungalows.com; d incl breakfast US$136; W)

Popular with honeymooners, these three immaculate private bungalows in a wildlife-friendly garden setting are done up with tropical decor: polished-wood floors, bamboo furniture, mosquito nets, hand-painted ceramic sinks and porches with hammocks and leather rocking chairs. Luxuries include pillow-top mattresses, high-thread-count sheets, fresh flowers and full breakfasts served by the gracious American hosts. Follow signs from Reggae Restaurant.

Goddess GardenLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0055, in USA & Canada 800-854-7761; www.thegoddessgarden.com; d 5-night packages incl lodging & 3 meals daily US$1320-1450; pWs)

Surrounded by old-growth jungle (including an awe-inspiring 'Goddess Tree'), this place at the end of the Playa Negra road is geared toward larger groups and yoga retreats, but independent travelers looking for a peaceful, meditative five- to seven-day immersion experience are also welcome.

Kenaki LodgeBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0485; www.kenakilodge.com; d incl breakfast US$102, d/tr/q bungalow US$124/124/237; pW)

Directly opposite Playa Grande (the next beach north of Playa Negra), this appealing new place is the creation of Parisian expatriate Isabelle and Costa Rican tae kwon do master Roberto. Three bright, high-ceilinged modern rooms, an older triple bungalow and two brand-new bungalows with satellite TV and modern kitchen fixtures surround a spacious landscaped yard and a wooden breakfast deck.

5Eating

Center

Soda KaweCOSTA RICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0233; casados US$6; h5:30am-7pm)

This humble spot on Cahuita's main street serves delicious, reasonably priced casados cooked over a wood fire. Breakfasts here include free coffee; other meals come with your choice of fruit drink.

Smoothie Bar & Crêpe CaféJUICE BAR, CREPERIE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; juices US$1.60-4, crepes US$4-6; h8am-6:30pm)

At this friendly main-street spot, Sherilyn and Eddy whip up fresh fruit crepes and juices mixed with water, milk, yogurt or ice cream. There's always an attractively priced juice of the day (US$1.60), but even better is the agua de sapo, a delicious, sinus-clearing Caribbean concoction made with lemon juice, water, brown sugar and loads of fresh ginger.

Cafe Chocolatte 100% NaturalBAKERY, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes US$4-9; h6:30am-3pm)

Greet the morning with a cup o’ joe and a warm cinnamon roll, or unwind in the afternoon with a refreshing jugo. Breakfast offerings include French toast and waffles, while the lunch menu revolves around salad, spaghetti, baked potatoes and rice dishes. Hearty sandwiches on homemade wholegrain bread are perfect for beach picnics at the national park.

Pizzeria CahuITAPIZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0179; pizzas US$5-12; h4-10pm Mon-Wed, noon-10pm Fri-Sun)

As the red-white-and-green color scheme implies, the ITA here stands for Italy, motherland of the two expatriate families who opened this excellent, unpretentious pizzeria in 2013. Grab a seat at the aluminum tables on the cement back patio and enjoy a surf and insect serenade while you wait for your thin-crusted beauty to emerge from the wood-fired oven.

Luisa Steak HouseSTEAKHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %7039-9689; mains US$6-16; h6am-10pm Mon-Sat)

In the corner veranda of an old house, this cozy spot specializes in filet mignon, tenderloin and T-bone steaks, but you'll also find plenty of other savory treats, including chicken in jalapeño or coconut sauce, pork chops, grilled seafood skewers and ceviche.

Restaurant La FéSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes US$7-16; h7am-11pm)

Chef and owner Walter, a Cahuita native, serves up tall tales and tasty meals at this reasonably priced spot. There’s a laundry list of Tico and Caribbean items, but the main draw is anything doused in the restaurant’s spicy-delicious coconut sauce.

Miss Edith'sCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0248; mains US$6-24; h7am-8pm; v)

This long-time local restaurant serves a slew of Caribbean specialties – including jerk chicken and potatoes stewed in garlic – and a number of vegetarian options.

CocoricóITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains US$7-14; h4-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-10pm Sat & Sun)

The menu here revolves around pizza, pasta and other Italian-themed mains, but it's better known for its regular movie screenings.

Playa Negra

Near Playa Negra, you can also head to the restaurants at Cabinas Algebra or Centro Turístico Brigitte for good breakfasts.

Reggae RestaurantCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains US$6-10; hnoon-10pm)

Exuding a friendly, laid-back vibe, this soda serves sandwiches and Caribbean-style casados on a wooden deck hung with green, red and yellow lampshades in the heart of Playa Negra. Reggae music and waves crashing on the beach across the street enhance the chilled-out atmosphere.

oSobre Las OlasSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0109; pastas US$12-15, mains US$12-25; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon; v)

Garlic shrimp, seafood pasta, or fresh grilled fish of the day come accompanied by crashing waves and sparkling blue Caribbean vistas at this sweet spot owned by a lively Tico-Italian couple. Cahuita’s top option for romantic waterfront dining, it's only a 400m walk northwest of Cahuita, on the road to Playa Negra. Save room for the delicious tiramisù.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Low-key Cahuita is home to one insanely loud drinking hole: Coco’s Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hnoon-last man standing). You can’t miss it at the main intersection, painted Rasta red, gold and green and cranking the reggaetón up to 11. On some nights (usually on weekends) there's also live music. Across the street you'll find a couple more bars, including Riki's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Splash ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the latter with its own swimming pool.

Information

The town’s helpful website, www.cahuita.cr, has lodging and restaurant information, including pictures of many of the spots listed here. It also has a ‘Cahuita Cam’ showing live shots of Playa Blanca.

Banco de Costa RicaBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

At the bus terminal; has an ATM.

Internet PalmerINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; per hr US$2; h7am-7:30pm)

Internet access in the heart of town.

Getting There & Away

Autotransportes Mepe buses arrive and depart at the bus terminal about 200m southwest of Parque Central.

Sixaola US$3.95; two hours; departs hourly from 6am to 7pm, passing through Bribrí en route.

Puerto Limón US$2.40; 1½ hours; departs half-hourly from 6am to 9pm.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca/Manzanillo US$1.50/2.40; 30 minutes/one hour; departs roughly every two hours between 7:15am and 7:15pm.

San José US$9.35; four hours; departs 7am, 8am, 9:30am, 11:30am and 4:30pm.

Getting Around

The best way to get around Cahuita – especially if you’re staying out along Playa Negra – is by bicycle. Several places around town rent bikes, including Mister Big J’s in Cahuita and Centro Turístico Brigitte in Playa Negra. Most places charge between US$7 and US$10 per day.

Parque Nacional Cahuita

This small but beautiful park – just 10 sq km – is one of the more frequently visited national parks in Costa Rica. The reasons are simple: the nearby town of Cahuita provides attractive accommodations and easy access; more importantly, the white-sand beaches, coral reef and coastal rainforest are bursting with wildlife.

Declared a national park in 1978, Cahuita is meteorologically typical of the entire coast (very humid), which results in dense tropical foliage, as well as coconut palms and sea grapes. The area includes the swampy Punta Cahuita, which juts into the sea between two stretches of sandy beach. Often flooded, the point is covered with cativo and mango trees and is a popular hangout for birds such as green ibis, yellow-crowned night heron, boat-billed heron and the rare green-and-rufous kingfisher.

Red land and fiddler crab live along the beaches, attracting mammals such as crab-eating raccoon and white-nosed coati. White-faced capuchin, southern opossum and three-toed sloth also live in these parts. The mammal you are most likely to see (and hear) is the mantled howler monkey, which makes its bellowing presence known. The coral reef represents another rich ecosystem that abounds with life.

2Activities

Hiking

An easily navigable 8km coastal trail leads through the jungle from Kelly Creek to Puerto Vargas. At times the trail follows the beach; at other times hikers are 100m or so away from the sand. At the end of the first beach, Playa Blanca, hikers must ford the dark Río Perezoso, or ‘Sloth River,’ which bisects Punta Cahuita. Inquire about conditions before you set out: under normal conditions, this river is easy enough to wade across, but during periods of heavy rain it can become impassable since it serves as the discharge for the swamp that covers the point.

The trail continues around Punta Cahuita to the long stretch of Playa Vargas. It ends at the southern tip of the reef, where it meets up with a road leading to the Puerto Vargas ranger station. Once you reach the ranger station, it's another 1.5km along a gravel road to the park entrance. From here, you can hike the 3.5km back to Cahuita along the coastal highway or catch a ride going in either direction.

Swimming

Almost immediately upon entering the park, you’ll see the 2km-long Playa Blanca stretching along a gently curving bay to the east. The first 500m of beach may be unsafe for swimming, but beyond that, waves are generally gentle. (Look for green flags marking safe swimming spots.) The rocky Punta Cahuita headland separates this beach from the next one, Playa Vargas. It is unwise to leave clothing or other belongings unattended when you swim.

Snorkeling

Parque Nacional Cahuita contains one of the last living coral reefs in Costa Rica. While the reef represents some of the area’s best snorkeling, it has incurred damage over the years from earthquakes and tourism-related activities. In an attempt to protect the reef from further damage, snorkeling is only permitted with a licensed guide. The going rate for one person is about US$25.

You’ll find that conditions vary greatly, depending on the weather and other factors. In general, the drier months in the highlands (from February to April) are best for snorkeling on the coast, as less runoff results in less silt in the sea. Conditions are often cloudy at other times.

Volunteering

Though not renowned as a sea-turtle destination, Cahuita’s beaches are nonetheless an important habitat for several breeds. Asociación Widecast (%2236-0947; www.widecast.org) has volunteering opportunities for those interested in assisting on in-water research projects and various conservation-related activities. Reserve in advance.

It's also possible to volunteer at Tree of Life wildlife-rescue center, on the road to Playa Negra.

5Eating

Boca ChicaITALIAN, COSTA RICAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0415; meals US$8-10; h9am-6pm)

After a long, hot jungle hike, you may think you're hallucinating when you see this small, whitewashed place at the end of the road. It’s not a mirage, just a well-placed bar-restaurant, run by charming Italian expatriate Rodolfo and his Tica wife, Karen. The menu features cold jugos, Caribbean specialties, homemade pastas and delicious platos del día from noon onwards.

Information

The Kelly Creek ranger station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0461; admission by donation; h6am-5pm) is convenient to the town of Cahuita, while 3.5km down Hwy 36 takes you to the well-signed Puerto Vargas ranger station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2755-0302; admission US$10; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat & Sun).

Visitors who enter the park at Kelly Creek are not required to pay the offiicial US$10 entrance fee; however, voluntary donations are accepted and encouraged. Visitors should bear in mind that the park service is habitually underfunded, and tourist dollars provide important support for education, conservation and maintenance programs.

CACAO TRAILS

Halfway between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in Hone Creek, this botanical garden and chocolate museum (%2756-8186; www.cacaotrails.com; Hone Creek; guided tour US$25, incl canoe trip & lunch US$47; h7am-4pm; c) has a couple of small museums devoted to indigenous and Afro-Caribbean culture, a lush garden bursting with bromeliads and heliconias, as well as an onsite chocolate factory where cacao is processed in traditional ways. Two-hour tours include a visit to all of these spots, plus a hike to a nearby organic farm. Additional expeditions allow for further exploration by canoe on the adjacent Río Carbón. Any bus between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo can drop you at the entrance. This is a great outing for kids.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

There was a time when the only travelers to the little seaside settlement once known as Old Harbor were intrepid surfers who padded around the quiet, dusty streets, board under arm, on their way to surf Salsa Brava. That, certainly, is no longer the case. This burgeoning party town is bustling with tourist activity: street vendors ply Rasta trinkets and Bob Marley T-shirts, stylish eateries serve global-fusion everything and intentionally rustic bamboo bars pump dancehall and reggaetón. The scene can get downright hedonistic, attracting dedicated revelers who arrive to marinate in ganja and guaro (a local firewater made with sugarcane).

Despite that reputation, Puerto Viejo nonetheless manages to hold on to an easy charm. Stray a couple of blocks off the main commercial strip and you might find yourself on a sleepy dirt road, savoring a spicy Caribbean stew in the company of local families. Nearby, you’ll find rainforest fruit farms set to a soundtrack of cackling birds and croaking frogs, and wide-open beaches where the daily itinerary revolves around surfing and snoozing. So, chill a little. Party a little. Eat a little. You’ve come to just the right place.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1ATECC2

2Caribbean Surf SchoolC2

3Caribe ShuttleF2

4Exploradores OutdoorsE1

5Gecko Trail AdventuresC2

6Reef Runner DiversC2

7Spanish School Pura VidaC3

4Sleeping

13Casa VerdeD2

14Cashew Hill Jungle CottagesC4

15Coco Loco LodgeC4

16Escape CaribeñoF1

17Hostel PagalúC3

Hotel Pura VidaC3

18Jacaranda Hotel & Jungle GardenC3

19Kaya's PlaceA3

20La Ruka HostelF2

21Monte SolE2

22Rocking J'sF2

5Eating

23Bread & ChocolateC2

24Café RicoD2

25Café ViejoC2

26Chile RojoC2

27De GustibusE1

28Dee-LiteB2

29Flip FlopC2

30Koki BeachD2

31Laszlo'sD1

32MegaSuperC3

33Miss Lidia's PlaceD2

34Pan PayC2

35Soda ShekináC3

36Stashu's con FusionE1

37Veronica's PlaceC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

38Johnny's PlaceC2

39Lazy MonD1

40Maritza's BarC2

41Salsa BravaD1

7Shopping

42Lulu Berlu GalleryC3

43Old Harbour SupermarketC3

44Organic MarketC2

1Sights

Finca La Isla GARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8886-8530, 2750-0046; self-guided/guided tour US$6/12; h10am-4pm Fri-Mon)

West of town, this farm and botanical garden has been producing organic pepper, cacao, tropical fruits and ornamental plants for over a decade. Birds and wildlife abound, including sloths, poison-dart frogs and toucans. Informative guided tours (minimum three people) include admission, fruit tasting and a glass of fresh juice; alternatively, buy a booklet (US$1) and take a self-guided tour.

Aiko-logiWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%2750-2084, 8997-6869; http://aiko.peppendale.com; day tour incl transport & lunch US$60, overnight stay per person incl meals US$99; p)

Nestled into the Cordillera de Talamanca, 15km outside Puerto Viejo, this private 135-hectare reserve is centered on a former finca, on land fringed with dense primary rainforest. It’s ideal for bird-watching, hiking and splashing around in swimming holes. Day tours from Puerto Viejo (or Cahuita) can be arranged, as can overnight tent platform stays. Reserve ahead.

SALSA BRAVA

One of the biggest breaks in Costa Rica, Salsa Brava is named for the heaping helping of ‘spicy sauce’ it serves up on the sharp, shallow reef, continually collecting its debt of fun in broken skin, boards and bones. The wave makes its regular, dramatic appearance when the swells pull in from the east, pushing a wall of water against the reef, in the process generating a thick and powerful curl. There’s no gradual build-up here: the water is transformed from swell to wave in a matter of seconds. Ride it out and you’re golden. Wipe out and you’ll rocket headfirst into the reef. In his memoir, In Search of Captain Zero, surfer and screenwriter Allen Weisbecker describes it as ‘vicious.’ Some mordant locals have baptized it ‘the cheese-grater.’

Interestingly, this storied wave helped turn Puerto Viejo into a destination. More than 30 years ago the town was barely accessible. But that didn't dissuade dogged surfers from the bumpy bus rides and rickety canoes that hauled them and their boards on the week-long trip from San José. They camped on the beach and shacked up with locals, carbo-loading at cheap sodas. Other intrepid explorers – biologists, Peace Corps volunteers, disaffected US veterans looking to escape the fallout of the Vietnam War – also materialized during this time, helping spread the word about the area’s luminous sunsets, lush rainforests and monster curls. Today Puerto Viejo has a fine paved road, global eateries and wi-fi. The fierceness of Salsa Brava, however, remains unchanged.

2Activities

ATEC is an excellent source of general information on local activities.

Surfing

Breaking on the reef that hugs the village is the famed Salsa Brava, a shallow break that is also one of the country’s most infamous waves. It’s a tricky ride – if you lose it, the waves will plow you straight into the reef – and definitely not for beginners. Salsa Brava offers both rights and lefts, although the right is usually faster. Conditions are best with an easterly swell.

For a softer landing, try the beach break at Playa Cocles – where the waves are almost as impressive and the landing far less damaging. Cocles is about 2km east of town. Conditions are usually best early in the day, before the wind picks up.

Waves in the area generally peak from November to March, and there is a surfing miniseason from June to July. From late March to May, and in September and October, the sea is at its calmest.

Several surf schools around town charge US$40 to US$50 for two hours of lessons. Stands around town rent boards from about US$20 per day.

Caribbean Surf SchoolSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8357-7703)

Lessons by super-smiley surf instructor Hershel Lewis, widely considered the best teacher in the town.

One Love Surf SchoolSURFING

(%8719-4654; jewell420@hotmail.com)

Julie Hickey and her surfing sons Cedric and Solomon specialize in surf lessons for women and children.

Swimming

The entire southern Caribbean coast – from Cahuita all the way south to Punta Mona – is lined with unbelievably beautiful beaches. Just northwest of town, Playa Negra offers the area’s safest swimming.

Southeast of town you will find some gems – stretches of smooth white sand, fringed by jungle and ideal for surfing, body surfing and, when the swell is low, swimming. Playa Cocles (2km east of town), Playa Chiquita (4km east), Punta Uva (7km east) and Manzanillo all offer postcard-perfect beach paradises. Swimming conditions vary greatly, however, and the surf can get dangerous. Riptides and powerful undertows can be deadly. Inquire at your hotel or with local tour operators about conditions before setting out.

Snorkeling

The waters from Cahuita to Manzanillo are sheltered by Costa Rica’s only two living reef systems, which form a naturally protected sanctuary, home to some 35 species of coral and 400 species of fish, not to mention dolphins, sharks and, occasionally, whales. Generally, underwater visibility is best when the sea is calm.

Just south of Punta Uva, in front of the Punta Uva Dive Center, is a decent spot for snorkeling, when conditions are calm. The reef is very close to the shore and features include stunning examples of reindeer coral, sheet coral and lettuce coral. The reef at Manzanillo is also easily accessible. Local operators offer snorkeling trips for about US$40 to US$60 per person.

Diving

Divers in the southern Caribbean will discover upward of 20 dive sites, from the coral gardens in shallow waters to deeper sites with amazing underwater vertical walls. Literally hundreds of species of fish swim around here, including angelfish, parrotfish, triggerfish, shark and different species of jack and snapper.

Reef Runner DiversDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0480; www.reefrunnerdivers.net; 1-/2-tank dive US$65/100; h8am-6pm)

If you are not certified, you can use a temporary license for US$55 or spring for the full PADI certification for US$335.

Hiking

There are superb coastal hiking opportunities within 15km of Puerto Viejo in Parque Nacional Cahuita and the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo.

White-Water Rafting

Exploradores OutdoorsRAFTING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 1-day trip incl 2 meals & transportation from US$99)

This outfit offers one- and two-day trips on the Ríos Pacuare and Reventazón. Staff can pick you up and drop you off in Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, San José or Arenal, and you’re free to mix and match your pick-up and drop-off points. It has an office in the center of town.

CCourses

Spanish School Pura VidaLANGUAGE COURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0029; www.spanishschool-puravida.com)

Located at the Hotel Pura Vida, this school offers everything from private hourly tutoring to intensive five-hours-a-day, multi-week classes.

TTours

Tour operators generally require a minimum of two people on any excursion. Rates may be discounted for larger groups.

ATECTOUR

(Asociación Talamanqueña de Ecoturismo y Conservación; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0398; www.ateccr.org; h8am-8pm)S

This highly reputable not-for-profit organization promotes sustainable tourism by working with local guides and supporting local communities. Activities include hiking, horseback riding, snorkeling, fishing, dolphin watching, rafting, kayaking, surfing, bird-watching, courses in Caribbean dance, cooking and hair braiding, and trips to indigenous territories and local farms. Note that 24-hour notice is required for some tours. Visit the office or the website for a complete price list.

Gecko Trail AdventuresTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2756-8412, in USA & Canada 415-230-0298; www.geckotrail.com)

This full-service agency arranges local tours as well as transportation, accommodations and tours throughout Costa Rica. It has offices downtown and at Banana Azul resort west of town.

TerraventurasTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0750; www.terraventuras.com; h7am-7pm)

Offers overnights in Tortuguero (US$95 to US$199), along with the usual local tours. Also has its very own 23-platform, 2.1km-long canopy tour (US$55), complete with Tarzan swing.

Caribe ShuttleTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0626; caribeshuttle.com/puerto-viejo-tours)

Based at Rocking J's Hostel, this company offers a wide variety of tours in the Puerto Viejo area and also specializes in excursions to Bocas del Toro, Panama.

4Sleeping

Puerto Viejo has a little bit of everything. All budget spots have private hot-water bathrooms unless otherwise stated. Note that rates are generally discounted slightly when paid in cash.

Hotel Pura VidaHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0002; www.hotel-puravida.com; s/d/tr US$34/38/48, without bathroom US$28/32/42; pW)

Despite the budget prices, this Chilean-German-run inn opposite the soccer field offers solidly midrange amenities. Ten breezy, immaculate rooms come clad in polished wood, bright linens and ceramic-tile floors; No 6 is especially nice, with views of town from its solar-heated shower. There's a lounge with easy chairs and hammocks, and breakfasts, snacks and chilled beers are available.

Rocking J'sHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0657; www.rockingjs.com; camping per person US$6-8, hammock US$7, dm/d/tr US$11/26/39, ste US$60-70; pW)

Puerto Viejo’s grooviest hostel and ‘hammock hotel’ is owned by the charismatic, mischievous ‘J,’ who organizes full-moon parties and drinking games. Good times, good vibes and new friends await here. The accommodations are basic: tight rows of tents and hammocks, snug dorms and private doubles share rickety showers in an environment brightened by a veritable explosion of psychedelic mosaics.

Surfboards, snorkels and bikes are available for rent, and in addition to an onsite restaurant and bar, there's also a music studio–survival bunker made from reclaimed shipping containers.

Jacaranda Hotel & Jungle GardenCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0069; www.cabinasjacaranda.net; s/d/tr/q from US$30/45/50/55; pW)

In a blooming garden intersected by mosaic walkways, this place near the soccer field has 15 simple wood cabinas with spotless ceramic-tile floors and murals of flowers, along with a small shared kitchen and patio. Yoga classes are offered, the onsite One Love Spa offers massage and bodywork, and there's an organic 'supermarket' (new in 2014) right next door.

Cabinas GuaranáCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0244; www.hotelguarana.com; s/d/tr/q US$35/43/53/60; piW)

Amid a riotous tropical garden in town, 10 brightly painted concrete cabinas are decorated with wooden furniture and colorful folk tapestries, and each one comes with a small private terrace with hammock. There is a spacious shared kitchen and a vertigo-inducing tree house that offers spectacular sea views.

Hostel PagalúHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-1930; www.pagalu.com; dm US$12, s/d US$27/32, s/d without bathroom US$23/26; pW)

This peaceful, contemporary hostel offers a break from Puerto Viejo’s party scene. Clean, airy dorms and doubles abound in niceties, including large lockers, charging stations for MP3 players and bunkside reading lamps. There's a shared open-air kitchen and a quiet lounge with tables and hammocks, plus a supply of spring water for refilling your own reusable plastic bottle.

Bungalows CalalúBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0042; www.bungalowscalalu.com; s/d/tr US$35/45/50, d/tr/q with kitchen & air-con US$60/70/80; paWs)

A lovely tropical-garden setting, swimming pool and convenient parking are among the appealing features at this small cluster of bungalows within easy walking distance of town. Cheaper fan-cooled units have private front porches where you can listen to the chorus of chirping birds every morning. Family-friendly larger units come with air-con and kitchen.

Cabinas TropicalCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0283; www.cabinastropical.com; s/d/tr US$40/45/55; pnaW)

Ten spacious rooms – decorated with varnished wood and shiny tiles – surround a primly landscaped garden on the eastern end of town. The comfortable quarters are just part of the appeal: biologist owner Rolf Blancke leads excellent bird-watching hikes at dawn (per person US$65, minimum three people, breakfast provided).

Monte SolCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0098; www.montesol.net; r US$38, without bathroom US$30, d/q bungalows with kitchen US$52/72; piW)

Clean, basic cabinas in a quiet locale east of town have tile floors, mosquito nets and hammocks.

La Ruka HostelHOSTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0617; www.facebook.com/laruka.hostel; dm/r without bathroom US$10/25; W)

If the cute painting of the surfing dog doesn't lure you in, the friendly welcome from owners Dannie and Dave will. Just east of town, this relative newcomer has spacious common areas up front, a brand-new kitchen out back, dorm space and a couple of private rooms upstairs with shared bath.

Kaya's PlaceGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0690; www.kayasplace.com; s/d without bathroom US$19/27, d US$35-55, ste US$70; pW)

Across the road from the beach at Puerto Viejo's western edge, this funky guesthouse has 17 snug, basic rooms, ranging from dim units with shared cool-water showers to more spacious garden rooms with air-con and private bathroom. A 2nd-floor lounge is filled with hammocks and offers prime ocean views. Bikes are available for rent.

Escape CaribeñoBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0103; www.escapecaribeno.com; s/d/tr garden view US$70/75/85, ocean view US$90/95/105; paiW)

Charming Italian owners keep these 14 spick-and-span bungalows with spotless bathrooms, some on the beach side and others in the garden across the road, 500m east of town toward Playa Cocles. More expensive units are in lovely Caribbean-style structures with stained-glass shower stalls, but all have stocked minifridges, cable TV, fans and hammocks. Breakfast (US$5 to US$9 extra) is also available.

Coco Loco LodgeBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0281; www.cocolocolodge.com; d US$55-69, d bungalow US$75-87; piW)

You’ll find various accommodations at this quiet Austrian-run hotel. The most charming are the palm-thatched bungalows, equipped with shining wood floors, minifridge and coffeemaker. All of these have private terrace with hammock, offering views of the expansive garden. Credit cards accepted.

Casa VerdeCABINA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0015; www.cabinascasaverde.com; s/d/tr/q US$62/78/95/109, s/d without bathroom from US$40/46; pWs)

Tiled walkways wind through gardens with 17 tidy rooms, each with high ceilings, stained-wood furniture, folk-art touches and private terraces with hammocks. Cheaper rooms are more basic, but the shared bathrooms shine. A pool and hot tub – encrusted with rock formations – are straight out of Fantasy Island. Credit cards accepted.

Blue Conga HotelB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0681; www.hotelblueconga.com; incl breakfast d/tr/q upstairs US$85/100/115, downstairs US$75/90/105; pWs)

This backstreet B&B 1km east of town has 14 simple rooms in a two-story, tropical-style building. Best value are the six airy upstairs units, with high ceilings, clerestory windows, canopy beds with mosquito nets, handcrafted lamps, private terraces, coffeemakers and microwaves. Rooms downstairs are less inspiring. Breakfast is served on a lovely open-air garden deck, beside the brand-new pool.

Cashew Hill Jungle CottagesBUNGALOW

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0001, 2750-0256; www.cashewhilllodge.co.cr; cottages US$90-150; pWs)

Perched on a lush hillside five minutes above town are seven bright, colorful and comfortable three- to eight-person cottages with full kitchens, loft-style sleeping areas and charming rustic touches. All have private decks or patios stocked with comfy chairs and hammocks, while the two-bedroom Playa Negra cabin offers exquisite ocean views. A brand-new yoga platform hosts classes twice daily.

Banana AzulLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-2035; www.bananaazul.com; incl breakfast d US$104-129, d ste US$164; pWs)

Removed from town, this wonderful hotel sits astride a blissfully tranquil black-sand beach. Jungle-chic decor (white linens, mosquito nets, bromeliads in the showers) is complemented by fine ocean vistas from upstairs terraces. Best is the Howler Suite, a corner room with multidirectional views. There's also an onsite restaurant-bar, plus bike and boogie-board rentals. No children under 16.

5Eating

With the most diverse restaurant scene on the Caribbean coast, Puerto Viejo has the cure for casado overkill.

Find groceries at the local Old Harbour Supermarket ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6:30am-8:30pm) or the incongruous chain-store MegaSuper ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-7pm). Don’t miss the Saturday organic market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6pm Sat), when area vendors and growers sell snacks typical of the region.

oBread & ChocolateBREAKFAST

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0723; cakes US$3, meals US$5-8; h6:30am-6:30pm Wed-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun; v)

Ever had a completely homemade PB&J (ie bread, peanut butter and jelly all made from scratch)? That and more can be yours at this dream of a gluten-lover's cafe. Coffees are served in individual French presses; mochas come unconstructed so you have the pleasure of mixing your own homemade chocolate, steamed milk and coffee; and everything else – from the gazpacho to the granola to the bagels – is lovingly and skilfully made in-house.

Flip FlopINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-2031; mains US$5-16; hnoon-10pm; c)

Atmospherically lit with colorful paper globe lanterns, this place has something for everyone: Thai, Indian and Indonesian curries, tacos, sushi, pasta, seafood, burgers and steaks. Throw in a wide-ranging, reasonably priced drinks list (sangria, mojitos, caipirinhas and every kind of colada imaginable), and desserts like warm chocolate brownies and banana splits, and you've got one very popular eatery.

Soda ShekináCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0549; mains US$7-12; h11:30am-9pm Wed-Mon)

Some of Puerto Viejo's best traditional Caribbean home cooking can be found at this backstreet eatery with wooden slab tables on an open-air terrace, just northwest of the soccer field. Everything is served with coconut rice and beans, salad and delicious caramelized fried bananas.

De GustibusBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; baked goods from US$1; h7am-6pm)

This Italian-owned bakery on Puerto Viejo's main drag draws a devoted following with its fabulous focaccia (US$2 a slice), along with apple strudel, profiteroles and all sorts of other sweet and savory goodies. Eat in, or grab a snack for the beach.

Veronica's PlaceVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0263; www.veronicasplacepv.com; dishes US$4-8; h8:30am-8pm; v)

This delightful vegetarian cafe with breezy upstairs seating offers delicious juices and smoothies along with fresh, healthy interpretations of Caribbean food, using fresh fruits and vegetables. Raw food and vegan options are available. Veronica rents cabinas, has a macrobiotic health-food store onsite, offers Caribbean cooking classes and runs a volunteer work exchange on her organic farm.

Pan PayBAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0081; dishes US$3-6; h7am-5pm)

This popular corner spot on the beachside road in town is excellent for strong coffee, fresh baked goods and hearty wedges of fluffy Spanish omelet served with crisp tomato-bread. There are sandwiches and other light meals, but it’s the flaky chocolate croissants that make us want to jump out of bed in the morning.

Café RicoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0510; caferico.puertoviejo@yahoo.com; breakfast US$3-7; h5:30am-1pm; W)

Home to some of Puerto Viejo's best coffee, this cozy garden cafe serves breakfast accompanied by a plethora of other services: free wi-fi, laundry, a book exchange, and rentals of bikes and snorkeling gear.

Dee-LiteICE CREAM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; gelato US$2-3; h12:30am-8pm)

Directly across from the bus stop, this authentic gelateria is the perfect place to cool off after a long, hot bus ride.

oLaszlo'sSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains US$14; h6-9:30pm)

Whaddya get when you take a champion sportfisher, born and raised in Transylvania, and transplant him to Puerto Viejo by way of New Jersey? Answer: an amazing, eclectic eatery with no sign and no menu that only opens whenever owner Laszlo catches enough fish. The day's catch comes with garlic and parsley, homemade French fries and grilled veggies. Yum!!!

oStashu's con FusionFUSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0530; mains US$10-18; h5-10pm Thu-Tue; v)

Stroll 250m out of town toward Playa Cocles to this romantic candlelit patio cafe serving up creative fusion cuisine that combines elements of Caribbean, Indian, Mexican and Thai cooking. Steamed spicy mussels in red-curry sauce and tandoori chicken in coconut are just a couple of standouts. Excellent vegetarian and vegan items round out the menu. Owner and chef Stash Golas is an artist inside the kitchen and out. Do not miss.

Miss Lidia's PlaceCARIBBEAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0598; dishes US$6-20; h9am-9pm)

A long-standing favorite for classic Caribbean flavors, Miss Lidia's has been around for years, pleasing the palates and satisfying the stomachs of locals and tourists alike. Fruit-and-veggie lovers will appreciate the ice-cold batidos (fresh fruit drinks) and the delicious assortment of broccoli, green beans, cauliflower, corn-on-the-cob, carrots and mushrooms accompanying most dishes.

Chile RojoASIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0025; mains US$6-15; h11:30am-10pm Thu-Tue; v)

Monday nights at this Asian fusion spot mean the US$13 all-you-can-eat (and quite decent) sushi and Asian buffet. Any other night of the week, this trendy 2nd-story spot offers excellent views of the main drag, and the sushi bar opens around 7:30pm. The cuisine is truly pan-Asian, running the gamut from tabbouleh to tikkas to Thai curries.

Café ViejoITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0817; www.cafeviejo.net; mains US$9-28; h6pm-1am Wed-Mon)

This pricey, sceney Mediterranean lounge and restaurant stands out for its fresh pastas, tasty pizzas, fancy cocktails and upscale, romantic ambience. Its main-street location makes for excellent people-watching.

Koki BeachLATIN AMERICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2275-0902; www.kokibeach.com; mains US$11-24; h2pm-midnight Wed-Sun; W)

A high-end favorite for drinks and dinner, this sleek eatery cranks reggae-lite and sports colorful Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated wooden platform on the east end of town. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches, meat and seafood dishes, but slim pickings for vegetarians.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Lazy MonCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Puerto Viejo's most dependable spot for live music, Lazy Mon draws big crowds with reggae at happy hour (5pm to 7pm), then keeps things hopping with more of the same throughout the evening.

Salsa BravaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0241; hnoon-10pm)

Specializing in fresh seafood and open-grill cooking, this popular spot is the perfect end-of-day cocktail stop – hit happy hour between 5pm and 7pm and you'll also catch two-for-one mojitos for sunset overlooking the Salsa Brava surf break. On Friday and Sunday it brings in DJs for the popular reggae nights.

Johnny's PlaceCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h1pm-3am)

At this central, beachside institution, Saturday is the big night, with DJs spinning reggaetón, dance hall, hip-hop and salsa. A mix of locals and travelers take up the dance floor and surround the late-night beach bonfires outside.

Maritza's BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0003)

This nonfancy local spot down by the beach has regular karaoke nights and DJs playing salsa and merengue.

7Shopping

Makeshift stalls clutter the main road, selling knick-knacks and Rasta-colored accoutrements aplenty.

Lulu Berlu GalleryARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-0394; h9am-9pm)

On a backstreet parallel to the main road, this gallery carries folk art, clothing, jewelry, ceramics, embroidered purses and mosaic mirrors, among many other one-of-a-kind, locally made items.

Information

Be aware that though the use of marijuana (and harder stuff) is common in Puerto Viejo, it is nonetheless illegal.

As in other popular tourist centers, theft can be an issue. Stay aware, use your hotel safe, and if staying outside of town avoid walking alone late at night.

ATEC has internet access and reliable information on local tours and activites.

Costa Rica Way ( GOOGLE MAP ; %2750-3031; www.costaricaway.net; h8am-6pm) Operates a tourist-information center near the waterfront east of town and lists hotel and restaurant info on its website.

Puerto Viejo Satellite (www.puertoviejosatellite.com) A website with information on local lodgings, eating and activities.

Banco de Costa RicaBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Two ATMs work on Plus and Visa systems, dispensing both colones and dollars. Sometimes they run out of cash on weekends, and can be finicky; if one machine won't let you withdraw cash, try the other.

Banco NacionalBANK

( GOOGLE MAP )

Just off main street near the bridge into town. Dispenses colones only.

Getting There & Away

Bus

All public buses arrive and depart from the bus stop along the beach road in central Puerto Viejo. The ticket office is diagonally across the street.

Bribrí/Sixaola US$1.50/3.35; 30/90 minutes; departs roughly every hour from 6:30am to 7:30pm.

Cahuita/Puerto Limón US$1.50/3.60; 30/90 minutes; departs roughly every hour from 5:30am to 7:30pm.

Manzanillo US$1.20; 30 minutes; departs every two hours between 6:45am and 6:45pm (less frequently on weekends).

San José US$10.90; five hours; departs 7:30am, 9am, 11am and 4pm daily, plus 1pm Sunday.

Van Shuttle

An ever-growing number of companies offer convenient van shuttles from Puerto Viejo to other tourist hot spots around Costa Rica and down the coast to Bocas del Toro, Panama. For an exhaustive list, see Gecko Trail's very helpful website geckotrail.com/shuttle.htm. The following companies operate out of Puerto Viejo.

Caribe Shuttle (%2750-0626; http://caribeshuttle.com/from-puerto-viejo) Serves Bocas del Toro (Panama), San José and Tortuguero.

Gecko Trail Standard shuttle service to San José and Tortuguero; also offers good-value Adventure Connection packages that provide transport to San José or Arenal, with a half-day, 30km Río Pacuare rafting trip included in the price.

Interbus (%4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) Serves Arenal-La Fortuna, San José, Siquirres and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.

INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN

The area is home to a number of thriving indigenous communities, many of which can be visited by travelers. Brush up on a little local knowledge first:

Bribrí & Cabécar

At least two indigenous groups occupied the territory on the Caribbean side of the country from pre-Columbian times. The Bribrí tended to inhabit lowland areas, while the Cabécar made their home high in the Cordillera de Talamanca. Over the last century, members of both ethnic groups have migrated to the Pacific side. But many have stayed on the coast, intermarrying with Jamaican immigrants and even working in the banana industry. Today the Bribrí tend to be more acculturated, while the Cabécar are more isolated.

The groups have distinct languages (which are preserved to some degree), though they share similar architecture, weapons and canoe style. They also share the spiritual belief that the planet – and the flora and fauna contained within it – are gifts from Sibö (God). Taking Care of Sibö’s Gifts, by Juanita Sánchez, Gloria Mayorga and Paula Palmer, is a remarkable record of Bribrí oral history.

Visiting Indigenous Communities

There are several reserves on the Caribbean slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, including the Talamanca Cabécar territory (which is more difficult to visit) and the Bribrí territory, where locals are more equipped to handle visitors. ATEC organizes trips out of Puerto Viejo.

The most interesting destination is Yorkín, in the Reserva Indígena Yorkín. While you are there, you can meet with a local women’s artisan group, Mujeres Artesanas Stibrawpa, who offer demonstrations in roof thatching, cooking and basket-weaving. It’s a rewarding trip, well worth the time and effort to get there (day trips US$70, overnights US$90).

Alternatively, you can visit the larger modern village of Shiroles, about 20km west of Bribrí, where you can observe and participate in local chocolate production (half-day trip US$35). Half-day trips (US$25) also visit an iguana farm on the Kèköldi territory (this is a tiny ethnicity related to the Bribrí).

Note: it is not recommended to visit these territories independently. Not only are many spots difficult to reach, but in most cases villages do not have the infrastructure to accommodate streams of tourists. Of course, remember to be respectful – these are people’s private homes and work spaces, not tourist attractions.

Getting Around

A bicycle is a fine way to get around town, and pedaling out to beaches east of Puerto Viejo is one of the highlights of this corner of Costa Rica. You’ll find rentals all over town for about US$5 per day.

Puerto Viejo to Punta Uva

A 13km road winds east from Puerto Viejo, through rows of coconut palms, alongside coastal lodges and through lush lowland rainforest before coming to a dead end at the sleepy town of Manzanillo. The road was paved for the first time in 2003, dramatically shortening the amount of time it took to travel this route. The roadway is narrow, however, so if you're driving, take your time and be alert for cyclists and one-lane bridges.

If you want to stay close to Puerto Viejo while having access to a nice beach, Playa Cocles has a good mix of isolation and amenities, offering a wide variety of places to stay and eat. After that, the pickings get thin until you get closer to Punta Uva, where you’ll find a cluster of lodges and restaurants – as well as one of the prettiest beaches in the region.

Buses heading from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo will drop you at any of these places along the way.

1Sights

Jaguar Centro de RescateWILDLIFE REFUGE

(%2750-0710; www.jaguarrescue.com; adult/child under 10yr US$15/free; htours 9:30am & 11:30am Mon-Sat; c)S

Named in honor of its original resident, this well-run wildlife-rescue center in Playa Chiquita now focuses mostly on other animals, including raptors, sloths and monkeys. Founded by Spanish zoologist Encar and her partner, Sandro, an Italian herpetologist, the center rehabilitates orphaned, injured and rescued animals for reintroduction into the wild whenever possible. Volunteer opportunities are available with a two-week minimum commitment.

2Activities

The region’s biggest draws involve surf, sand, wildlife-watching and attempts to get a decent tan between downpours. Playa Cocles is known for its great surfing and organized lifeguard system, which helps offset the dangers of the frequent riptides, while Punta Uva features the best and safest beaches for swimming.

Punta Uva Dive CenterDIVING

(%2759-9191; www.puntauvadivecenter.com; 1-/2-tank dives from US$65/80)

Clearly signposted off the main road in Punta Uva. Offers diving, PADI courses and snorkeling.

TTours

Chocolate Forest ExperienceTOUR

(%8836-8930; http://caribeanscr.com/chocolate-tour.html; Playa Cocles; guided tours US$26; htours 10am Mon, 10am & 2pm Tue & Thu, 2pm Fri & Sat)

Playa Cocles–based chocolate producer Caribeans leads tours of its sustainably managed cacao forest and chocolate-creation lab, accompanied by gourmet chocolate tastings.

Crazy Monkey Canopy TourADVENTURE TOUR

(www.almondsandcorals.com/tours/crazy-monkey-canopy-ride; per person US$45; h8am-2pm)

The region's only canopy tour, operated by Almonds & Corals Lodge between Punta Uva and Manzanillo.

4Sleeping & Eating

All of the following places are listed from west (Puerto Viejo) to east (Punta Uva).

Playa Cocles

A broad stretch of white-sand beach lies just 1.5km east of Puerto Viejo, offering proximity to the village and its many restaurants, but plenty of peace and quiet, too.

Cabinas El TesoroCABINA

(%2750-0128; www.cabinaseltesoro.com; dm US$10, d/tr/q with fan US$35/45/55, with air-con US$60/70/80; paiW)

Directly opposite the Playa Cocles beach break are these 12 clean, simple cabinas with tile floors and queen beds, some with air-con and cable TV. The attached Mi Casa Hostel sleeps 16 in four-bed dorms. Bikes can be rented onsite, and surfboard rentals and lessons are available across the road. The bar next door hosts live music on Tuesday.

Finca ChicaBUNGALOW

(%2750-1919; www.fincachica.com; bungalows US$65-130, per week US$370-750; W)

Surrounded by lush tropical greenery, these four stand-alone wooden houses range from a two-person bungalow to an amazing three-story structure known as 'La Casita del Río' that sleeps up to six people. All have fully equipped kitchens, and three have spacious living and dining areas. It's tucked down a dead-end dirt driveway, a few hundred meters off the main road.

El Tucán Jungle Lodge CABINA

(%2750-0026; www.eltucanjunglelodge.com; s/d/tr/q US$38/50/60/70; pW)

Only 1km off the road, this jungle retreat feels miles from anywhere, making it ideal for bird-watchers. Four clean wooden cabinas on the banks of the Caño Negro share a broad patio with hammocks from which you can observe sloths, toucans and more. Upon request, the welcoming German owners serve breakfast (per person US$5) and organize walks in the area.

La Isla InnCABINA

(%2750-0109; www.laislainn.com; s/d with fan US$62/79, with air-con US$73/102; paWs)

Opposite the lifeguard tower at the main hub of the beach lies this efficient wooden lodge with 12 expansive rooms, all of which are equipped with safe, cable TV and handmade wood furnishings crafted from the slightly curved outer boards that are discarded during lumber processing.

Azánia BungalowsBUNGALOW

(%2750-0540; www.azania-costarica.com; d incl breakfast US$107, additional person US$25; pis)

Ten spacious but dark thatch-roofed bungalows are brightened up by colorful linens at this charming inn set on landscaped jungle grounds. Nice details include woven bedspreads, well-designed bathrooms and wide-plank hardwood floors. A free-form pool and a Jacuzzi nestle into the greenery, and there's an Argentine restaurant and bar.

La Costa de PapitoBUNGALOW

(%2750-0080; www.lacostadepapito.com; d incl breakfast US$107, additional adult/child US$17/7; pW)

Relax in rustic comfort in the sculpture-studded grounds at this popular Cocles outpost, which has wood and bamboo bungalows decked out with hand-carved furniture, stone bathrooms straight out of The Flintstones and roomy porches draped with hammocks. The onsite restaurant serves Italian-influenced specialties, while the rustic, palm-thatched Indulgence Spa (%2750-0536; www.indulgencespa-salon.com; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat) offers massage and spa treatments.

Physis B&B

(%8866-4405, 2750-0941; www.physiscaribbean.net; incl breakfast d US$100-125, tr US$135)

Creature comforts abound at this four-bedroom B&B, tucked down a Playa Cocles side road and managed by expatriate Californians Jeremy and Emily. There are free Netflix movies in the smaller downstairs units, satellite TV in the honeymoon suite, and super-strong wi-fi, sound systems, dehumidifiers, air-con and mini-fridges throughout. An upstairs deck with well-stocked bar doubles as the breakfast area.

oLa Pecora NeraITALIAN

(%2750-0490; mains US$12-30; h5pm-late Tue-Sun; v)

If you splurge for a single fancy meal during your trip, do it at this romantic eatery run by Tuscan-born Ilario Giannoni. On a lovely, candlelit patio, deftly prepared Italian seafood and pasta dishes are served alongside unusual offerings such as the delicate carpaccio di carambola: transparent slices of starfruit topped with shrimp, tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette.

There is an extensive wine list (from US$32 a bottle), but you can’t go wrong with the well-chosen and relatively inexpensive house wines. The restaurant has also branched out to a more casual spot next door, Gatta Ci Cova (%2750-0730; sandwiches US$7-11, mains US$10-14; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun; v), where you can grab panini and drinks.

Playa Chiquita

It isn’t exactly clear where Playa Cocles ends and Playa Chiquita begins, but conventional wisdom applies the name to a series of beaches 4km to 6km east of Puerto Viejo.

Villas del CaribeHOTEL

(%2750-0202, 2233-2200; www.villasdelcaribe.com; incl breakfast d standard/junior US$80/110, junior villa/villa US$120/150; pas)

With a prime location near the beach, this resort offers lovely, brightly painted rooms, comfortable beds, sitting areas and roomy bathrooms with Spanish tile. Junior villas also come with kitchenettes, while the two-story villas have ocean views, king-size beds, kitchens and BBQ. All have private decks with hammocks.

Aguas ClarasBUNGALOW

(%2750-0131; www.aguasclaras-cr.com; 1-/2-/3-room cottages US$70/130/220; pi)

Five tropical Victorian cottages painted in bright candy colors and edged in lacy woodwork sit tucked amid the trees on the beach side of the road. All come with fully equipped kitchens.

Tierra de SueñosBUNGALOW

(%2750-0378; www.tierradesuenoslodge.com; bungalows incl breakfast $95-165; pW)S

True to its name ('land of dreams'), this blissful garden retreat comprises several adorable wood bungalows with mosquito nets and private decks. The quiet, tropical atmosphere is complemented by regular yoga classes on an open-air platform. Bike rentals (US$5 per day), snorkeling gear (free) and laundry (US$10 per load) are available, as is wi-fi (in common areas only).

La KukulaBUNGALOW

(%2750-0653; www.lakukulalodge.com; incl breakfast d/tr US$130/147, 2-/3-bedroom houses US$260/300)

Three tastefully spaced 'tropical contemporary' bungalows bring guests close to nature with natural ventilation (superhigh ceilings and screen walls), and open jungle views from the rainfall showers. The wood-decked pool is great for bird- and frog-watching. For larger groups, a brand-new three-bedroom house sleeps up to nine, with private kitchen and pool. Delicious included breakfasts feature homemade bread and marmalade.

Shawandha LodgeBUNGALOW

(%2750-0018; www.shawandhalodge.com; d incl breakfast US$147, additional person US$25; paiWs)

Immersed in greenery, with frogs, agoutis and other tropical critters close at hand, this upscale lodge has 13 private, spacious nature-themed bungalows painted in earth tones and equipped with large mosaic-tiled bathrooms. A meticulously maintained thatched rancho serves as an open-air lounge, and there's a French-Caribbean restaurant. A private path across the road leads to the beach.

La Botánica OrgánicaVEGETARIAN, VEGAN

(www.labotanicaorganica.com; mains US$4-8; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun; v)S

Sporting massive wood chairs and tables on a breezy open-air terrace, this friendly roadside spot specializes in vegetarian and vegan breakfasts and lunches, from banana pancakes and breakfast burritos to lentil-veggie burgers and avocado and cheese sandwiches on homemade wholewheat bread. Everything comes adorned with hibiscus flowers and served with a smile. The attached gift shop sells earth-friendly souvenirs.

ChocorartCAFE

(%8866-7493; snacks from US$2; h10am-sunset)

This Swiss-run roadside cafe makes a perfect place to break your bike ride and get a quick chocolate fix. Batidos, coffee and ice cream are all available, but the real stars here are the brownies, hot chocolate and other delectables made from cocoa grown on the adjacent farm; excellent chocolate tours are also available here.

Jungle Love Garden CaféCAFE

(%2750-0162; www.junglelovecafe.com; mains US$9-20; h5-9:30pm Tue-Sun; v)

American bohemian meets the Caribbean at this popular porch-front cafe that serves amazing flash-cooked tuna, pizzas, pasta, tropical-themed salads and chicken dishes, and an eponymous Jungle Love Milkshake, a very grown-up blend of Bailey’s, guaro and local ice cream. The menu has veggie options and vegan items can be prepared on request. There are only eight tables; reserve ahead.

Pura GulaINTERNATIONAL

(%8634-6404; mains US$13-20; h6-10pm)

The short but solid menu at this casually elegant Catalan-owned eatery includes steak with gorgonzola sauce, fried calamari, spinach-cheese ravioli in pesto sauce, and shrimp accompanied by sauteed veggies and sesame mashed potatoes. Everything's served on a pleasant open-air deck, just off the main road between Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva.

Punta Uva

Punta Uva is known for the region’s most swimmable beaches, each lovelier than the next. To find the turnoff to the point (about 7km east of Puerto Viejo), look for the Punta Uva Dive Center sign.

Walaba HostelHOSTEL

(%2750-0147; www.walabahostel.com; dm/s/d/tr/q without bathroom US$13/25/35/50/60, s/d cabina with bathroom US$35/45)

Funky, colorful and amazingly cheap for Punta Uva, this ramshackle collection of open-air dorms, private rooms (including an 'attic' double reached by a ladder) and small cabins is surrounded by a flowery garden and managed by a friendly Dutch couple. Guests share ample kitchen facilities, hot and cold showers and a creaky-floored communal area with games, books and DVDs.

oCabinas Punta UvaCABINA

(%2759-9180; www.cabinaspuntauva.com; cabinas US$60, with private kitchen US$90)

Only steps from idyllic Playa Punta Uva, this Catalan-owned cluster of three cabinas with tiled bathrooms, polished-wood verandas, hammocks and a shared open-air kitchen is dreamily hidden down a dead-end street in a verdant garden setting. Fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves and chirping insects and wake up to the roar of the resident howler monkeys.

Casa VivaBUNGALOW

(%2750-0089; www.puntauva.net; 1-bedroom houses US$100, 2-bedroom houses d/tr/q US$130/160/190; paW)

Beautifully handcrafted by a master carpenter, these enormous, fully furnished hardwood houses, each with tiled shower, kitchen and wraparound veranda, are set on a property that fronts the beach – an ideal spot in which to chill out in a hammock and observe the local wildlife. Weekly and monthly rates are also available.

Costa Rica Tree House Lodge BUNGALOW

(%2750-0706; www.costaricatreehouse.com; d US$200-390, extra person US$50; p)S

Adventurers who like their lodgings rustic and whimsical will appreciate these four open-air casitas of various sizes, including a literal ‘tree house’, a two-story cabin built around the base of a living sangrillo tree. All have kitchens, BBQs, spacious decks with easy chairs and hammocks, and private paths leading to a small white-sand beach. Proceeds support an iguana-breeding program.

Korrigan LodgeBUNGALOW

(%2759-9103; www.korriganlodge.com; d incl breakfast US$105; p)

Nestled into a patch of jungle near the main road, these four thatch-roofed wood and concrete bungalows come with minibar, safe, modern bathroom and private terrace with hammock. All guests have access to free bikes. Breakfast is served in an open-air rancho surrounded by gardens.

Almonds & Corals LodgeBUNGALOW

(%2271-3000, in USA 1-888-373-9042; www.almondsandcorals.com; incl breakfast & dinner s/d US$196/250, s/d master ste US$276/350, additional child/adult from US$40/65; pis)S

Buried deep in the jungle, this long-time luxury spot popular with honeymooners has 24 palm-roofed suites connected by wooden boardwalks, with four-poster beds, Jacuzzi tubs and private patios with hammocks. Rooms are screened in, making them comfortable, but you’ll still be able to enjoy the nightly serenade of insects and frogs. Meals are served family-style in an open-air dining room.

oSelvin’s Restaurant CARIBBEAN

(%2750-0664; mains US$10-18; h8am-8pm Wed-Sun)

Selvin is a member of the extensive Brown family, noted for their charm, and his place is considered one of the region’s best, specializing in shrimp, lobster, a terrific rondón and a succulent chicken caribeño (chicken stewed in a spicy Caribbean sauce).

El RefugioARGENTINE, INTERNATIONAL

(%2759-9007; mains US$15-25; h5-9pm Thu-Tue)

This tony Argentine-owned restaurant with only five tables is renowned for its rotating menu of three appetizers, five main dishes and three desserts. New offerings get chalked up on the board daily, anchored by perennial favorites such as red tuna in garlic, bife de entraña with chimichurri (a marinade of parsley, garlic and spices) and dulce de leche crepes. Reserve ahead.

Manzanillo

The chill village of Manzanillo has long been off the beaten track, even since the paved road arrived in 2003. This little town remains a vibrant outpost of Afro-Caribbean culture and has also remained pristine, thanks to the 1985 establishment of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo, which includes the village and imposes strict regulations on regional development.

Activities are of a simple nature, in nature: hiking, snorkeling and kayaking are king. (As elsewhere, ask about riptides before heading out.) Other than that, you may find the occasional party at the locally renowned Maxi’s bar and restaurant at the end of the road (where buses arrive).

2Activities

Aquamor Talamanca AdventuresSNORKELING

(%2759-9012; www.greencoast.com/aquamor.htm)

Near the bus stop in Manzanillo, this outfit rents snorkel gear and kayaks. Hours vary; call ahead.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cabinas BucusCABINA

(%2759-9143; www.costa-rica-manzanillo.com; s/d/tr US$25/35/45, s/d/tr/q apt US$40/45/60/70; pW)

Four tidy, brightly painted tiled rooms in a two-story mustard-yellow structure have mosquito nets and private bathrooms, all sharing a small kitchen. There are also two kitchen-equipped apartments sleeping up to four people each. Omar, one of the co-owners, is one of Manzanillo’s top guides.

Cabinas ManzanilloCABINA

(%2759-9033; s/d US$40/50; pW)

Run by the ever-helpful Sandra Castillo and Pablo Bustamante, these eight cabinas on Manzanillo's western edge are so clean you could eat off the tile floors. Cheery rooms have big beds, industrial-strength ceiling fans and spacious bathrooms. There's also a shared kitchen. From Maxi’s, travel 300m west toward Punta Uva, then make a left onto the signposted dirt road.

Congo BongoBUNGALOW

(%2759-9016; www.congo-bongo.com; d/tr/q US$165/185/205, per week US$990/1110/1230; pW)

About 1km outside Manzanillo towards Punta Uva, these six charming Dutch-owned cottages surrounded by dense forest (formerly a cacao plantation) offer fully equipped kitchens and plenty of living space, including open-air terraces and strategically placed hammocks that are perfect for wildlife-watching. A network of trails leads through the 6 hectares of grounds to the beautiful beach.

Cool & Calm CafeCARIBBEAN

(%8843-7460; www.coolandcalmcafe.com; mains US$9-18; h4-9pm Mon, 11am-9pm Wed-Sun)

Directly across from Manzanillo's western beachfront, this front-porch eatery regales visitors with fine Caribbean cooking, from snapper to shrimp, and chicken to lobster, with a few extras like guacamole, tacos and veggie curry thrown in for good measure. Owners Andy and Molly offer Caribbean cooking classes and a 'reef-to-plate' tour where you dive for your own lobster or fish.

Maxi’s RestaurantCARIBBEAN

(mains US$9-21, lobster US$23-67; hnoon-9pm; v)

Manzanillo's most famous restaurant draws a tourist crowd with large platters of grilled seafood, pargo rojo (whole red snappers), steaks and Caribbean-style lobsters (expensive and not necessarily worth it). Despite the somewhat lackadaisical service, the open-air upstairs dining area is a wonderful seaside setting for a meal and a beer with views of the beach and the street below.

Getting There & Away

Buses from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo (US$1.20, 30 minutes) depart at 6:45am, 7:45am, 9:45am, 11:45am, 1:45pm, 4:45pm and 6:45pm, returning to Puerto Viejo at 7am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm and 6pm. These buses all continue to Puerto Limón (US$4.90, two hours) for onward transfers. Transportes Mepe also runs one direct bus daily between Manzanillo and San José (US$12, five hours), leaving Manzanillo at 7am and returning from San José at noon.

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo

This little-explored refuge – called Regama for short – protects nearly 70% of the southern Caribbean coast, extending from Manzanillo all the way to the Panamanian border. It encompasses 50 sq km of land plus 44 sq km of marine environment. The peaceful, pristine stretch of sandy white beach is one of the area’s main attractions. It’s the center of village life in Manzanillo, and stretches for miles in either direction – from Punta Uva in the west to Punta Mona in the east. Offshore, a 5-sq-km coral reef is a teeming habitat for lobsters, sea fans and long-spined urchins.

Other than the village itself, and the surrounding farmland areas (grandfathered when the park was created in 1985), the wildlife refuge is composed largely of rainforest. Cativo trees form the canopy, while there are many heliconia in the undergrowth. A huge, 400-hectare swamp – known as Pantano Punta Mona – provides a haven for waterfowl, as well as the country’s most extensive collection of holillo palms and sajo trees. Beyond Punta Mona, protecting a natural oyster bank, is the only red-mangrove swamp in Caribbean Costa Rica. In the nearby Río Gandoca estuary there is a spawning ground for Atlantic tarpon, and caimans and manatees have been sighted.

The variety of vegetation and the remote location of the refuge attract many tropical birds; sightings of the rare harpy eagle have been recorded here. Other birds to look out for include the red-lored parrot, the red-capped manikin and the chestnut-mandibled toucan, among hundreds of others. The area is also known for incredible raptor migrations, with more than a million birds flying overhead during autumn.

Despite the idyllic nature of the environment, there has been some political squabbling between Minae (the government agency that administers the national parks in Costa Rica) and some local businesses over the management of the refuge. Some local operators are trying to get the village excluded from the confines of the refuge – which would open the door to increased development in the area. (In fact, unapproved constructions have already materialized – some within 50m of the high-tide line, a zone in which construction is prohibited by national law.) Others oppose it. It will likely take years – and armies of lawyers – to sort the mess out.

GETTING TO GUABITO & BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA

Welcome to Costa Rica’s most entertaining border crossing! An old railroad bridge that spans the churning waters of the Río Sixaola connects Costa Rica with Panama amid a sea of agricultural plantations. Until recently, oversized buses and trucks also plied this route – making for a surreal scene whenever one of these vehicles came clattering along the wood planks, forcing pedestrians to scatter to the edges. Today there's a parallel bridge for motor-vehicle traffic, inaugurated in mid-2012, but pedestrians still get the fun of walking across the old bridge.

From here, most travelers make for Bocas del Toro in Panama, a picturesque archipelago of jungle islands that is home to lovely beaches and endangered red frogs, and is easily accessible by regular water taxis from the docks at Almirante.

The border is open 7am to 5pm (8am to 6pm in Guabito, Panama, which is an hour ahead of Costa Rica), though one or both sides may close for lunch at around 1pm. At the entrance to the bridge, on the right-hand side, pay the US$7 Costa Rica departure tax and get your exit stamp at the Costa Rica immigration office (%2754-2044). Once over the bridge, stop at Panama immigration to get your passport stamped and pay the US$3 entry tax. Note that Panama no longer requires tourist cards for foreigners entering from Costa Rica, but you will be required to show proof of onward travel out of Panama, such as a copy of your plane ticket home. Personal cars (not rentals) can cross here.

Guabito has no hotels or banks, but in a pinch you can exchange colones at the market across the street. From the border, half-hourly buses (US$1.25, one hour) run to Terminal Piquera in Changuinola, where you can transfer to one of the frequent buses to Almirante (US$1.75, 45 minutes) for the water taxi. Alternatively, from Guabito you can take a collective taxi (per person US$10, one hour) straight to Almirante. From this point, hourly water taxis (per person US$6, 25 minutes) make the trip to Bocas del Toro between 6:30am and 7pm.

For a more streamlined, if slightly more expensive, trip to Bocas del Toro, take one of the daily shuttles from Cahuita or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

2Activities

Hiking

A coastal trail heads 5.5km east out of Manzanillo to Punta Mona. The first part of this path, which leads from Manzanillo to Tom Bay (about a 40-minute walk), is well trammeled, clearly marked and doesn’t require a guide. Once you pass Tom Bay, however, the path gets murky and it’s easy to get lost, so ask about conditions before you set out, or hire a guide. It’s a rewarding walk – with amazing scenery, as well as excellent (and safe) swimming and snorkeling at the end.

Another, more difficult, 9km trail leaves from just west of Manzanillo and skirts the southern edges of the Pantano Punta Mona, continuing to the small community of Gandoca. This trail is not commonly walked, as most people access Punta Mona and Gandoca from the park entrance at the northern edge of the refuge, which is located on the road to Sixaola. If you want to try to hike this, be sure to hire a guide.

Snorkeling & Diving

The undersea portion of the park cradles one of the two living coral reefs in the country. Comprising five types of coral, the reefs begin in about 1m of water and extend 5km offshore to a barrier reef that local fishers have long relied on and researchers have only recently discovered. This colorful undersea world is home to some 400 species of fish and crustaceans. Punta Mona is a popular destination for snorkeling, though it’s a trek so you may wish to hire a boat. Otherwise, you can snorkel offshore at Manzanillo at the eastern end of the beach (the riptide can be dangerous here; inquire about conditions before setting out). Also check out the Coral Reef Information Center at Aquamor Talamanca Adventures in Manzanillo.

Conditions vary widely, and clarity can be adversely affected by weather changes.

Kayaking

You can explore some of the area’s waterways by kayak, available from Aquamor Talamanca Adventures (per hour/day US$6/25). Paddle out to the reef, or head up the Quebrada Home Wark, in the west of the village, or the tiny Simeon Creek, at the east end of the village. These are short paddles – ideal if you’ve got kids.

Dolphin-Watching

In 1997 a group of local guides in Manzanillo identified tucuxi dolphins, a little-known species previously not found in Costa Rica, and began to observe their interactions with bottlenose dolphins. A third species – the Atlantic spotted dolphin – is also common in this area. This unprecedented activity has attracted the attention of marine biologists and conservationists, who are following these animals with great interest.

For dolphin-watching tours in the reserve (from US$55), contact ATEC in Puerto Viejo.

Turtle-Watching

Marine turtles – especially leatherback but also green, hawksbill and loggerhead – all nest on the beaches between Punta Mona and the Río Sixaola. Leatherbacks nest from March to July, with a peak in April and May. Local conservation efforts are underway to protect these nesting grounds since the growth of the area’s human population has led to increased theft of turtle eggs.

During turtle season, no flashlights, beach fires or camping are allowed on the beach. All tourists must be accompanied by a local guide to minimize disturbance of the nesting turtles.

TTours

You could explore the refuge on your own, but without a guide you’ll likely miss out on the incredible diversity of medicinal plants, exotic birds and earthbound animals. Most guides charge US$35 per person for a four- to five-hour trek, depending on the size of the group. Ask around at Maxi’s or at Casa de Guías (%2759-9064).

Recommended local guides include Florentino Grenald (%8841-2732, 2759-9043), who used to serve as the reserve’s administrator, Omar (%2759-9143; Cabinas Bucus) and Abel Bustamante (%2759-9043).

ATEC, Aquamor Talamanca Adventures and Casa de Guías offer tours of the area.

4Sleeping & Eating

oPunta MonaCABINA

(www.puntamona.org; incl 3 organic meals campsites/r per person US$35/65; i)S

Accessible only by foot or boat, this 40-hectare organic farm and retreat 5km southeast of Manzanillo is a thriving experiment in permaculture design and sustainable living. It grows over 200 varieties of fruit and nut trees and hundreds of edible greens, roots, veggies and medicinal plants, which comprise 90% of the huge vegetarian meals included in the daily rate.

Check the website for myriad educational and volunteer opportunities here. To arrange accommodations and transportation, email contact@puntamona.org ahead of your visit.

Information

An excellent photo book on the area, with commentary in Spanish and English, is Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo by Juan José Puccí, available locally.

Minae (%2759-9100; h8am-noon & 1-4pm) is located in the green wooden house as you enter Manzanillo, and generally has trail maps of the refuge.

Aquamor Talamanca Adventures and Casa de Guías are also good sources of information on what to do in the park.

Bribrí

This bustling, no-stoplight town in the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca lies at a bend in the paved road that connects Cahuita to Sixaola and the Panama border. The village is primarily an agricultural center and a spot for nearby indigenous communities to take care of errands; most travelers just pass through on their way to the border or on local tours.

From Bribrí, a 34km paved road takes the traveler to the border at Sixaola.

1Sights & Activities

For information about tours to local indigenous villages, drive 2km west of town to Rancho Grande and ask for Catato (his house is just opposite Rancho Grande's football field).

Studio of Fran VázquezGALLERY

(%2751-0205)

On the road to Bribrí, 350m north of the Sixaola turnoff, find the studio of this self-taught folk painter whose colorful acrylic landscapes are well known in Puerto Viejo and San José. Look for the brightly painted sign outside a small, one-story house. Call ahead to visit, as hours vary.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a few basic lodging options, a supermarket and the requisite Musmanni bakery. Accommodations tend to fill up on market days (Monday and Tuesday).

Cabinas El PiculinoCABINA

(%2751-0130; d with fan/air-con US$30/40; paW)

Connected to the great soda (casados US$5; hMon-Sat) run by the same family, this spotless place has 22 clean, simple, brightly painted rooms with private hot showers; all have TV and most have air-con.

Restaurante BribríCOSTA RICAN

(%2751-0044; breakfast US$3, casados US$5; h5am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Run by the helpful Carlos and Miriam, this busy restaurant adjacent to the bus stop serves breakfast, casados, chicken with rice, fried plantains and tamales.

Restaurante Kaya Chökök Mlàs MlàsCARIBBEAN

(casados US$5-7, mains US$5-9; h7am-4pmi)

A pleasant 2nd-story terrace restaurant located near the Banco Nacional, this place serves up superdelicious cooking, including the delectably carnivorous ‘Arroz Kaya’ (US$6), a steaming pile of fried rice studded with bacon, ham, chicken and steak, and served with salad and fried plantains.

Information

Banco Nacional (h8:30am-3:45pm) Has an ATM and changes US dollars. It's 100m north of the bus stop.

Getting There & Away

Buses arrive and depart hourly from in front of Restaurante Bribrí.

Puerto Limón, via Cahuita US$4.40; three hours; departs hourly from 6am to 7pm.

San José US$11.80; 5½ hours; departs 6:30am, 8:30am, 10:30am and 3:30pm.

Sixaola US$1.95; 30 minutes; departs hourly from 6am to 8pm.

Sixaola

Pop 8900

This is the end of the road – literally. Bumpy tarmac leads to an old railroad bridge over the Río Sixaola that serves as the border crossing into Panama. Like most border towns, Sixaola is hardly scenic: it’s an extravaganza of dingy bars and roadside stalls selling rubber boots.

Sixaola is centered on the optimistically named Mercado Internacional de Sixaola, a gravelly square where you can find taxis and a handful of sodas. The market is about two blocks from the border crossing.

There's no good reason to stay in Sixaola, but if you get stuck, head for safe, clean Cabinas Sanchez (%2754-2105; r US$16). From the border, head north along the lower road and walk about 100m to the tunnel on the left. After exiting the underpass, walk west another 100m to find the cabinas.

The bus station is just north of the border crossing, one block east of the main drag. Buses to either San José (US$13.30, six hours, 6am, 8am, 10am and 3pm) or Puerto Limón (US$6.35, three hours, hourly from 5am to 6pm) all stop at Bribrí and Cahuita. There are also regular buses to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (US$3.35, one hour, hourly between 5:30am and 5:30pm Monday through Saturday, every two hours on Sunday).