True Lemon Ice Cream
Makes: About 1 quart/1 liter
Of all desserts, lemon curd has the purest, most intense, and full-flavored lemon flavor I know, so I use it as a base for lemon ice cream. All that’s added is heavy cream, a little milk, and a little extra sugar to produce an exceptionally smooth, creamy, and refreshing ice cream. The same basic technique works for other citrus fruits, too, but because their acidity varies, I concentrate the juice and adjust the amount of sugar accordingly (see Orange Ice Cream and Grapefruit Ice Cream). Limes and Seville oranges, however, are very high in acid, so the juice can be substituted for lemon juice (see Variations).
Ice Cream Base
| unsalted butter | 64 grams | 4½ tablespoons (½ stick plus ½ tablespoon) |
| lemon zest, finely grated (2 lemons), see Scoops | 6 grams | 1 tablespoon |
| 6 (to 9) large egg yolks | 112 grams | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (104 ml) |
| sugar | 200 grams | 1 cup, divided |
| glucose or reduced corn syrup | 28 grams | 4 teaspoons (20 ml) |
| lemon juice, freshly squeezed and strained (3 lemons) | 126 grams | ½ cup (118 ml) |
| fine sea salt | . | a pinch |
| heavy cream | 387 grams | 1⅔ cups (394 ml) |
| milk | 136 grams | ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (133 ml) |
* About 1 hour ahead, cut the butter into four pieces and set it on the counter at room temperature (65° to 75°F/18° to 24°C).
* Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl containing the lemon zest.
1) In a medium saucepan, with a silicone spatula, stir together the egg yolks, butter, 100 grams/½ cup of the sugar, and the glucose until well blended. Stir in the lemon juice and salt.
2) Heat the mixture on medium-low, stirring constantly, until slightly thicker than heavy cream. It should thickly coat the spatula and will pool slightly when a little is dropped back on its surface.
3) Immediately pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.
4) Whisk the remaining sugar (100 grams/½ cup) into the hot lemon curd, and then the cream and milk. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. (Alternatively, cool in an ice water bath.) Set a covered storage container in the freezer.
5) Churn the lemon custard in a prechilled ice cream maker. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container, and allow the ice cream to firm in the freezer for at least 4 hours before serving.
Store
Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days
Scoops
* Be sure to scrub the lemon with a little liquid dishwashing detergent, rinse well, and dry before zesting.
* Fresh blueberries or raspberries scattered on top make a harmonious combination of flavors and textures.
Variations
Lime Ice Cream
Substitute an equal weight or volume of freshly squeezed and strained lime juice for the lemon juice. Substitute 8 grams/4 teaspoons of finely grated lime zest for the lemon zest. Use only 175 grams/¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar: Add 100 grams/½ cup to the egg mixture and the remaining 75 grams/¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons to the hot lime curd.
Seville Orange Ice Cream
Replace the lemon juice with an equal weight or volume of freshly squeezed and strained Seville orange juice. Replace the lemon zest with 8 grams/4 teaspoons of finely grated navel orange zest (the zest from Seville oranges is unpleasantly bitter, except when used in marmalade).