California
Los Angeles
Southern Californian Coast
Disneyland & Anaheim
Orange County Beaches
San Diego
Palm Springs & the Deserts
Palm Springs
Joshua Tree National Park
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
Mojave National Preserve
Death Valley National Park
Central Coast
Santa Barbara
Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo
San Luis Obispo
Morro Bay to Hearst Castle
Big Sur
Carmel
Monterey
Santa Cruz
San Francisco & the Bay Area
San Francisco
Marin County
Berkeley
Northern California
Wine Country
North Coast
Sacramento
Gold Country
Northern Mountains
Sierra Nevada
Yosemite National Park
Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks
Eastern Sierra
Lake Tahoe
California
Why Go?
With bohemian spirit and high-tech savvy, not to mention a die-hard passion for the good life – whether that means cracking open a bottle of old-vine Zinfandel, climbing a 14,000ft peak or surfing the Pacific – California soars beyond any expectations sold on Hollywood's silver screens.
More than anything, California is iconic. It was here that the hurly-burly gold rush kicked off in the mid-19th century, where poet-naturalist John Muir rhapsodized about the Sierra Nevada's 'range of light,' and where Jack Kerouac and the Beat Generation defined what it really meant to hit the road.
California's multicultural melting pot has been cookin' since this bountiful promised land was staked out by Spain and Mexico. Today, waves of immigrants from around the world still look to find their own American dream on these palm-studded Pacific shores.
Come see the future in the making here in the Golden State.
When to Go
AJun–Aug Mostly sunny weather, occasional coastal fog; summer vacation crowds.
AApr–May & Sep–Oct Cooler nights, many cloudless days; travel bargains galore.
ANov–Mar Peak tourism at ski resorts and in SoCal’s warm deserts.
Best Places to Sleep
California Highlights
1 Chasing waterfalls and climbing granite domes in Yosemite National Park.
2 Making the most of multicultural neighborhoods and Hollywood’s red carpet nightlife in Los Angeles.
3 Cruising Hwy 1 atop sculpted seacliffs on the bohemian Big Sur coast.
4 Riding a cablecar up dizzying hills in often foggy, always fabulous San Francisco.
5 Wallowing in the volcanic mud baths of Calistoga near famous Napa Valley vineyards.
6 Surfing perfect waves off sunny San Diego beaches.
7 Craning your neck at the world’s tallest trees along the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
8 Trekking across sand dunes and uncovering Old West ghost towns in Death Valley National Park.
9 Spotting whales, elephant seals and tule elk at wind-blown Point Reyes National Seashore.
a Dipping into swimming holes and panning like a forty-niner prospector in Gold Country.
History
Five hundred Native American nations called this land home for some 150 centuries before 16th-century European arrivals gave it a new name: California. Spanish conquistadors and priests came here for gold and god, but soon relinquished their flea-plagued missions and ill-equipped presidios (forts) to Mexico. The unruly territory was handed off to the US in the Treaty of Hidalgo mere months before gold was discovered here in 1848. Generations of California dreamers continue to make the trek to these Pacific shores for gold, glory and self-determination, making homes and history on America's most fabled frontier.
California Today
California is a crazy dream that has survived more than 150 years of reality. The Golden State has surged ahead of France to become the world's sixth-largest economy. But like a kid that's grown too fast, California still hasn't figured out how to handle the hassles that come along with such rapid growth, including housing shortages, traffic gridlock and rising costs of living. Escapism is always an option here, thanks to Hollywood blockbusters and legalized marijuana dispensaries. But California is coming to grips with its international status and taking leading roles in such global issues as environmental standards, online privacy, marriage equality and immigrant rights.
CALIFORNIA IN ...
One Week
California in a nutshell: start in beachy Los Angeles, detouring to Disneyland. Head up the breezy Central Coast, stopping in Santa Barbara and Big Sur, before getting a dose of big-city culture in San Francisco. Head inland to nature’s temple, Yosemite National Park, then zip back to LA.
Two Weeks
Follow the one-week itinerary above, but at a saner pace. Add jaunts to NorCal’s Wine Country; Lake Tahoe, perched high in the Sierra Nevada; the bodacious beaches of Orange County and laid-back San Diego; or Joshua Tree National Park, near the chic desert resort of Palm Springs.
One Month
Do everything described above, and more. From San Francisco, head up the foggy North Coast, starting in Marin County at Point Reyes National Seashore. Stroll Victorian-era Mendocino and Eureka, find yourself on the Lost Coast and ramble through fern-filled Redwood National & State Parks. Inland, snap a postcard-perfect photo of Mt Shasta, drive through Lassen Volcanic National Park and ramble in California’s historic Gold Country. Trace the backbone of the Eastern Sierra before winding down into otherworldly Death Valley National Park.
Los Angeles
LA County represents the nation in extremes. Its people are among America’s richest and poorest, most established and most newly arrived, most refined and roughest, most beautiful and most botoxed, most erudite and most airheaded. Even the landscape is a microcosm of the USA: from cinematic beaches to snow-dusted mountains, skyscrapers to suburban sprawl and even wilderness prowled by mountain lions.
If you think you’ve already got LA figured out – celebutantes, smog, traffic, bikini babes and pop-star wannabes – think again. LA is best defined by simple life-affirming moments: a cracked-ice, jazz-age cocktail after midnight, a hike high into the sagebrush of Griffith Park, a pink-washed sunset over a Venice Beach drum circle, or simply a search for the perfect taco. With Hollywood and Downtown LA both undergoing an urban renaissance, the city’s art, music, food and fashion scenes are all in high gear. Chances are, the more you explore, the more you’ll love ‘La-La Land.’
History
The hunter-gatherer existence of the area’s Gabrielino and Chumash peoples ended with the arrival of Spanish missionaries and colonists in the late 18th century. Spain’s first civilian settlement, El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula, remained an isolated farming outpost for decades after its founding in 1781. The city wasn’t officially incorporated until 1850.
LA’s population repeatedly swelled after the collapse of the California gold rush, the arrival of the transcontinental railroad, the growth of the citrus industry, the discovery of oil, the launch of the port of LA, the birth of the movie industry and the opening of the California Aqueduct. After WWII, the city’s population doubled from nearly two million in 1950 to around four million today.
1Sights
A dozen miles inland from the Pacific, Downtown LA combines history and highbrow arts and culture. Hip-again Hollywood awaits northwest of Downtown, while urban-designer chic and gay pride rule West Hollywood. South of WeHo, Museum Row is Mid-City’s main draw. Further west are ritzy Beverly Hills, Westwood near the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) campus and West LA. Beach towns include kid-friendly Santa Monica, boho Venice, star-powered Malibu and busy Long Beach. Leafy Pasadena lies northeast of Downtown.
1Downtown
Downtown is divided into numerous areas. Bunker Hill is home to major modern-art museums and the Walt Disney Concert Hall. To the east is City Hall and, further east still, Little Tokyo. Southeast of Little Tokyo lies the trendy Arts District. Broadway is flanked by glorious heritage buildings, while the city's oldest colonial buildings flank Olvera St, north of City Hall and the 101 freeway. Further north still is Chinatown.
Downtown Los Angeles
1Sights
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
oHauser & WirthGALLERY
(
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; 
%213-943-1620; www.hauserwirthlosangeles.com; 901 E 3rd St; 
h11am-6pm Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu)
F
The LA outpost of internationally acclaimed gallery Hauser & Wirth has art fiends in a flurry with its museum-standard exhibits of modern and contemporary art. It's a huge space, occupying 116,000 sq ft of a converted flour mill complex in the Arts District. Past exhibits have showcased the work of luminaries such as Louise Bourgeois, Eva Hesse and Jason Rhoades. The complex is also home to a superlative art bookshop.
Bradbury BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING
(
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; www.laconservancy.org; 304 S Broadway; hlobby usually 9am-5pm; 
mRed/Purple Lines to Pershing Sq)
Debuting in 1893, the Bradbury is one of the city's undisputed architectural jewels. Behind its robust Romanesque facade lies a whimsical galleried atrium that wouldn't look out of place in New Orleans. Inky filigree grillwork, rickety birdcage elevators and yellow-brick walls glisten golden in the afternoon light, which filters through the peaked glass roof. Such striking beauty hasn't been lost on Hollywood – the building's star turn came in the cult sci-fi flick Blade Runner.
LOS ANGELES IN ...
Distances are ginormous in LA, so allow extra time for traffic and don’t try to pack too much into a day.
One Day
Fuel up for the day at the Original Farmers Market, then go star-searching on the Hollywood Walk of Fame along Hollywood Blvd. Up your chances of spotting actual celebs by hitting the fashion-forward boutiques on paparazzi-infested Robertson Boulevard, or get a dose of nature at Griffith Park. Then drive west to the lofty Getty Center or head out to the Venice Boardwalk to see the seaside sideshow. Catch a Pacific sunset in Santa Monica.
Two Days
Explore rapidly evolving Downtown LA. Dig up the city’s roots at El Pueblo de Los Angeles, then catapult to the future at dramatic Walt Disney Concert Hall topping Grand Ave’s Cultural Corridor. Walk off lunch ambling between Downtown’s historic buildings, Arts District galleries and Little Tokyo. At South Park’s glitzy LA Live entertainment center, romp through the multimedia Grammy Museum, then join real-life celebs cheering on the LA Lakers next door at the Staples Center. After dark, hit the dance floor at clubs in Hollywood.
1El Pueblo de Los Angeles & Around
Compact, colorful and car free, this historic district immerses you in LA’s Spanish-Mexican roots. Its spine is festive Olvera St (
MAP
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; www.calleolvera.com; 
c), where you can snap up handmade folkloric trinkets, then chomp on tacos and sugar-sprinkled churros. ‘New’ Chinatown (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.chinatownla.com) is about a half mile north along Broadway and Hill St, crammed with dim-sum parlors, herbal apothecaries, curio shops and Chung King Rd’s edgy art galleries.
LA PlazaMUSEUM
(La Plaza de Cultura y Artes;
MAP
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; %213-542-6200; www.lapca.org; 501 N Main St; hnoon-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun; c)F
This museum offers snapshots of the Mexican–American experience in Los Angeles, from Spanish colonization in the late 18th century and the Mexican–American War (when the border crossed the original pueblo), to the Zoot Suit Riots, activist César Chávez and the Chicana movement. Exhibitions include a re-creation of 1920s Main St as well as rotating showcases of modern and contemporary art by LA-based Latino artists.
Avila AdobeMUSEUM
(
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; %213-628-1274; www.elpueblo.lacity.org; 10 Olvera St; h9am-4pm)F
The oldest surviving house in LA was built in 1818 by wealthy ranchero and one-time LA mayor Francisco José Avila. After subsequent lives as a boarding house and restaurant, the abode was restored to offer a glimpse into domestic LA life circa 1840. Rooms are filled with period furniture and furnishings, including a handful of items that belonged to the Avila family. Among these is the sewing machine. The house is open for self-guided tours.
Union StationNOTABLE BUILDING
(
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; www.amtrak.com; 800 N Alameda St; 
p)
Built on the site of LA’s original Chinatown, Union Station opened in 1939 as America’s last grand rail station. It’s a glamorous exercise in Mission Revival style with art-deco and American Indian accents. The marble-floored main hall, with cathedral ceilings, original leather chairs and 3000-pound chandeliers, is breathtaking. The station's Traxx Bar was once the telephone room, complete with operator to place customers' calls. The LA Conservancy runs 2½-hour walking tours of the station on Saturdays at 10am (book online).
1Civic Center & Cultural Corridor
oBroadMUSEUM
(
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; %213-232-6200; www.thebroad.org; 221 S Grand Ave; h11am-5pm Tue & Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, to 6pm Sun; pc; mRed/Purple Lines to Civic Center/Grand Park)F
From the instant it opened in September 2015, the Broad (rhymes with 'road') became a must-visit for contemporary-art fans. It houses the world-class collection of local philanthropist and billionaire real-estate honcho Eli Broad and his wife Edythe, with more than 2000 postwar pieces by dozens of heavy hitters, including Cindy Sherman, Jeff Koons, Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Rauschenberg, Keith Haring and Kara Walker.
oWalt Disney Concert HallNOTABLE BUILDING
(
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; %323-850-2000; www.laphil.org; 111 S Grand Ave; hguided tours usually noon & 1:15pm Thu-Sat, 10am & 11am Sun; p; mRed/Purple Lines to Civic Center/Grand Park)F
A molten blend of steel, music and psychedelic architecture, this iconic concert venue is the home base of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, but has also hosted contemporary bands such as Phoenix and classic jazz musicians such as Sonny Rollins. Frank Gehry pulled out all the stops: the building is a gravity-defying sculpture of heaving and billowing stainless steel.
oMOCA GrandMUSEUM
(Museum of Contemporary Art;
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; %213-626-6222; www.moca.org; 250 S Grand Ave; adult/child $15/free, 5-8pm Thu free; h11am-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
MOCA's superlative art collection focuses mainly on works created from the 1940s to the present. There's no shortage of luminaries, among them Mark Rothko, Dan Flavin, Willem de Kooning, Joseph Cornell and David Hockney. Their creations are housed in a postmodern building by award-winning Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. Galleries are below ground, yet sky-lit bright.
La PlacitaCHURCH
(
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; www.laplacita.org; 535 N Main St; h6am-8:30pm)
Founded as La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora la Reina de Los Ángeles (Our Lady the Queen of the Angels Church) in 1781, and now affectionately known as ‘Little Plaza.' Head inside for a peek at the gilded altar and painted ceiling.
1Little Tokyo
Little Tokyo swirls with shopping arcades, Buddhist temples, traditional gardens, authentic sushi bars and noodle shops, and a provocative branch of MOCA.
Japanese American National MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %213-625-0414; www.janm.org; 100 N Central Ave; adult/child $10/6, 5-8pm Thu & all day 3rd Thu of month free; h11am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, noon-8pm Thu; c; mGold Line to Little Tokyo/Arts District)
A great first stop in Little Tokyo, this is the country’s first museum dedicated to the Japanese immigrant experience. The 2nd floor is home to the permanent 'Common Ground' exhibition, which explores the evolution of Japanese-American culture since the late 19th century and offers moving insight into the painful chapter of America's WWII internment camps. Afterwards relax in the tranquil garden and browse the well-stocked gift shop.
1South Park
South Park isn’t actually a park but an emerging Downtown LA neighborhood around LA Live (
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; %213-763-5483, 866-548-3452; www.lalive.com; 800 W Olympic Blvd; pc), a dining and entertainment hub where you’ll find the Staples Center and Microsoft Theater (
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; %213-763-6020; www.microsofttheater.com; 777 Chick Hearn Ct).
oGrammy MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %213-765-6800; www.grammymuseum.org; 800 W Olympic Blvd; adult/child $13/11; h10:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; pc)
It's the highlight of LA Live. Music-lovers will get lost in interactive exhibits, which define, differentiate and link musical genres. Spanning three levels, the museum's rotating exhibitions might include threads worn by the likes of Michael Jackson, Whitney Houston and Beyoncé, scribbled words from the hands of Count Basie and Taylor Swift and instruments once used by world-renowned rock deities. Inspired? Interactive sound chambers allow you to try your own hand at singing, mixing and remixing.
1Exposition Park & Around
Just south of the University of Southern California (USC) campus, this park has a full day’s worth of kid-friendly museums. Outdoor landmarks include the Rose Garden (
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; %213-763-0114; www.laparks.org/expo/garden; 701 State Dr, Exposition Park; h8:30am-sunset Mar 16–Dec 31; p; mExpo Line to Exposition Park/USC) and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, site of the 1932 and 1984 Summer Olympic Games. Parking costs around $10. From Downtown, take the Metro Expo Line or DASH minibus F.
California Science CenterMUSEUM
(
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; %film schedule 213-744-2019, info 323-724-3623; www.californiasciencecenter.org; 700 Exposition Park Dr, Exposition Park; IMAX movie adult/child $8.50/5.25; h10am-5pm; c)F
Top billing at the Science Center goes to the Space Shuttle Endeavour, one of only four space shuttles nationwide, but there's plenty else to see at this large, multistory, multimedia museum filled with buttons to push, lights to switch on and knobs to pull. A simulated earthquake, baby chicks hatching and a giant techno-doll named Tess bring out the kid in everyone. Admission is free, but special exhibits, experiences and IMAX movies cost extra.
oWatts TowersLANDMARK
(
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; %213-847-4646; www.wattstowers.us; 1761-1765 E 107th St, Watts; adult/child 13-17yr & senior/child under 13yr $7/3/free; htours 11am-3pm Thu & Fri, 10:30am-3pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun; p; mBlue Line to 103rd St)
The three Gothic spires of the fabulous Watts Towers rank among the world’s greatest monuments of folk art. In 1921 Italian immigrant Simon Rodia set out ‘to make something big’ and then spent 33 years cobbling together this whimsical free-form sculpture from concrete, steel and a motley assortment of found objects: green 7Up bottles, sea shells, tiles, rocks and pottery.
Natural History Museum of Los AngelesMUSEUM
(
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; %213-763-3466; www.nhm.org; 900 Exposition Blvd, Exposition Park; adult/student & senior/child $12/9/5; h9:30am-5pm; pc; mExpo Line to Expo/Vermont)
Dinos to diamonds, bears to beetles, hissing roaches to African elephants – this museum will take you around the world and back, through millions of years in time. It’s all housed in a beautiful 1913 Spanish Renaissance–style building that stood in for Columbia University in the first Toby McGuire Spider-Man movie – yup, this was where Peter Parker was bitten by the radioactive arachnid. There's enough to see here to fill several hours.
STUDIO TOURS
Did you know it takes a week to shoot a half-hour sitcom? Or that you rarely see ceilings on shows because the space is filled with lights and lamps? You’ll learn these and other nuggets of information about the make-believe world of film and TV while touring a working studio. Star-sighting potential is better than average, except during ‘hiatus’ (May to August) when studios are deserted. Reservations are required and so is photo ID.
Paramount (
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; %323-956-1777; www.paramountstudiotour.com; 5555 Melrose Ave; tours from $55; htours 9:30am-5pm, last tour 3pm) Star Trek, Indiana Jones and Shrek are among the blockbusters that originated at Paramount, the longest-operating movie studio and the only one still in Hollywood proper. Two-hour tours through the back lots and sound stages are available daily year-round and are led by passionate, knowledgeable guides.
Sony (
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; %310-244-8687; www.sonypicturesstudiostours.com; 10202 W Washington Blvd; tour $45; htours usually 9:30am, 10:30am, 1:30pm & 2:30pm Mon-Fri) Running on weekdays only, this two-hour tour includes visits to the sound stages where Men in Black, Spider-Man, and Charlie’s Angels were filmed. Munchkins hopped along the Yellow Brick Road in The Wizard of Oz, filmed when this was still the venerable MGM studio.
Warner Bros (
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; %877-492-8687, 818-972-8687; www.wbstudiotour.com; 3400 W Riverside Dr, Burbank; tours adult/child 8-12yr from $62/52; h8:30am-3:30pm, extended hours Jun-Aug; 
g155, 222, 501 stop about 400yd from tour center) This tour offers the most fun and authentic look behind the scenes of a major movie studio. Consisting of a two-hour guided tour and a self-guided tour of Studio 48, the adventure kicks off with a video of WB’s greatest film hits – among them Rebel Without a Cause and La La Land – before a tram whisks you to sound stages, back-lot sets and technical departments, including props, costumes and the paint shop. Tours run daily, usually every half-hour.
1Hollywood
Just as aging movie stars get the occasional face-lift, so has Hollywood. While it still hasn’t recaptured its mid-20th-century ‘Golden Age’ glamour, its contemporary seediness is disappearing. The Hollywood Walk of Fame (
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; www.walkoffame.com; Hollywood Blvd; mRed Line to Hollywood/Highland) honors more than 2400 celebrities with stars embedded in the sidewalk.
The Metro Red Line stops beneath Hollywood & Highland, a multistory mall with nicely framed views of the hillside Hollywood sign, erected in 1923 as an advertisement for a land development called Hollywoodland. Two-hour validated mall parking costs $2 (daily maximum $15).
Hollywood
5Eating
7Shopping
oHollywood MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %323-464-7776; www.thehollywoodmuseum.com; 1660 N Highland Ave; adult/child $15/5; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun; mRed Line to Hollywood/Highland)
For a taste of Old Hollywood, do not miss this musty temple to the stars, its four floors crammed with movie and TV costumes and props. The museum is housed inside the Max Factor Building, built in 1914 and relaunched as a glamorous beauty salon in 1935. At the helm was Polish-Jewish businessman Max Factor, Hollywood's leading authority on cosmetics. And it was right here that he worked his magic on Hollywood's most famous screen queens.
oGrauman's Chinese TheatreLANDMARK
(TCL Chinese Theatres;
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; %323-461-3331; www.tclchinesetheatres.com; 6925 Hollywood Blvd; guided tour adult/senior/child $16/13.50/8; c; mRed Line to Hollywood/Highland)
Ever wondered what it’s like to be in George Clooney’s shoes? Just find his footprints in the forecourt of this world-famous movie palace. The exotic pagoda theater – complete with temple bells and stone heaven dogs from China – has shown movies since 1927 when Cecil B. DeMille’s The King of Kings first flickered across the screen.
Hollywood Forever CemeteryCEMETERY
(
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; %323-469-1181; www.hollywoodforever.com; 6000 Santa Monica Blvd; husually 8:30am-5pm, flower shop 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; p)
Paradisiacal landscaping, vainglorious tombstones and epic mausoleums set an appropriate resting place for some of Hollywood's most iconic dearly departed. Residents include Cecil B. DeMille, Mickey Rooney, Jayne Mansfield, punk rockers Johnny and Dee Dee Ramone and Golden Girls star Estelle Getty. Valentino lies in the Cathedral Mausoleum (open from 10am to 2pm), while Judy Garland rests in the Abbey of the Psalms. For a full list of residents, purchase a map ($5) at the flower shop.
Dolby TheatreTHEATER
(
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; %323-308-6300; www.dolbytheatre.com; 6801 Hollywood Blvd; tours adult/child, senior & student $23/18; h10:30am-4pm; p; mRed Line to Hollywood/Highland)
The Academy Awards are handed out at the Dolby Theatre, which has also hosted the American Idol finale, the Excellence in Sports Performance Yearly (ESPY) Awards and the Daytime Emmy Awards. The venue is home to the annual PaleyFest, the country's premier TV festival, held in March. Guided tours of the theater will have you sniffing around the auditorium, admiring a VIP room and nosing up to an Oscar statuette.
1Griffith Park
America’s largest urban park (
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; %323-644-2050; www.laparks.org; 4730 Crystal Springs Dr; h5am-10pm, trails sunrise-sunset; pc) is five times the size of New York’s Central Park, with an outdoor theater, zoo, observatory, museum, merry go-round, antique and miniature trains, children’s playgrounds, golf, tennis and over 50 miles of hiking paths, including to the original Batman TV series cave.
oGriffith ObservatoryMUSEUM
(
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; %213-473-0890; www.griffithobservatory.org; 2800 E Observatory Rd; admission free, planetarium shows adult/child $7/3; hnoon-10pm Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; pc; gDASH Observatory)F
LA's landmark 1935 observatory opens a window onto the universe from its perch on the southern slopes of Mt Hollywood. Its planetarium claims the world’s most advanced star projector, while its astronomical touch displays explore some mind-bending topics, from the evolution of the telescope and the ultraviolet x-rays used to map our solar system to the cosmos itself. Then, of course, there are the views, which (on clear days) take in the entire LA Basin, surrounding mountains and Pacific Ocean.
oAutry Museum of the American WestMUSEUM
(
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; %323-667-2000; www.autrynationalcenter.org; 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park; adult/senior & student/child $14/10/6, 2nd Tue each month free; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; pc)
Established by singing cowboy Gene Autry, this expansive, underrated museum offers contemporary perspectives on the history and people of the American West, as well as their links to the region's contemporary culture. Permanent exhibitions explore everything from Native American traditions to the cattle drives of the 19th century and daily frontier life; look for the beautifully carved vintage saloon bar. You'll also find costumes and artifacts from famous Hollywood westerns such as Annie Get Your Gun, as well as rotating art exhibitions.
Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical GardensZOO
(
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; %323-644-4200; www.lazoo.org; 5333 Zoo Dr, Griffith Park; adult/senior/child $20/17/15; h10am-5pm, closed Christmas Day; pc)
Home to 1100 finned, feathered and furry friends from more than 250 species, the LA Zoo rarely fails to enthrall the little ones. Adults who have been to zoos in Hawaii, San Diego or Singapore, however, may find the place a little average. To save time, purchase tickets online. To save money, bring your own food and drinks as the offerings at the zoo are expectantly overpriced.
1West Hollywood & Mid-City
In WeHo, rainbow flags fly proudly over Santa Monica Blvd, while celebs keep gossip rags happy by misbehaving at clubs on the fabled Sunset Strip. Boutiques along Robertson Blvd and Melrose Ave purvey sassy and ultrachic fashions for Hollywood royalty and celebutantes. WeHo’s also a hotbed of cutting-edge interior design, fashion and art, particularly in the West Hollywood Design District (http://westhollywooddesigndistrict.com). Further south, some of LA’s best museums line Mid-City’s Museum Row along Wilshire Blvd east of Fairfax Ave.
West Hollywood & Mid-City
1Top Sights
5Eating
oLos Angeles County Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(LACMA;
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; %323-857-6000; www.lacma.org; 5905 Wilshire Blvd, Mid-City; adult/child $15/free, 2nd Tue each month free; h11am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 8pm Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; p; gMetro lines 20, 217, 720, 780 to Wilshire & Fairfax)
The depth and wealth of the collection at the largest museum in the western US is stunning. LACMA holds all the major players – Rembrandt, Cézanne, Magritte, Mary Cassatt, Ansel Adams – plus millennia's worth of Chinese, Japanese, pre-Columbian and ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian sculpture. Recent acquisitions include massive outdoor installations such as Chris Burden's Urban Light (a surreal selfie backdrop of hundreds of vintage LA streetlamps) and Michael Heizer's Levitated Mass, a surprisingly inspirational 340-ton boulder perched over a walkway.
La Brea Tar Pits & MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; www.tarpits.org; 5801 Wilshire Blvd, Mid-City; adult/student & senior/child $12/9/5, 1st Tue of month Sep-Jun free; h9:30am-5pm; pc)
Mammoths, saber-toothed cats and dire wolves used to roam LA's savannah in prehistoric times. We know this because of an archaeological trove of skulls and bones unearthed here at the La Brea Tar Pits, one of the world’s most fecund and famous fossil sites. A museum has been built here, where generations of young dino hunters have come to seek out fossils and learn about paleontology from docents and demonstrations in on-site labs.
1Beverly Hills & the Westside
The major cultural sight here is the Getty Center, located in the hills of Brentwood. Westwood is home to the well-tended UCLA campus, the contemporary-art-focused Hammer Museum (
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; %310-443-7000; www.hammer.ucla.edu; 10899 Wilshire Blvd, Westwood; h11am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; p) and the star-studded Westwood Village Memorial Park Cemetery (
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; %310-474-1579; 1218 Glendon Ave, Westwood; h8am-6pm; p), all three of which are within walking distance of each other. Beverly Hills claims Rodeo Dr, a prime people-watching spot. Guided tours of celebrity homes depart from Hollywood.
oGetty CenterMUSEUM
(
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; %310-440-7300; www.getty.edu; 1200 Getty Center Dr, off I-405 Fwy; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri & Sun, to 9pm Sat; pc; g734, 234)F
In its billion-dollar, in-the-clouds perch, high above the city grit and grime, the Getty Center presents triple delights: a stellar art collection (everything from medieval triptychs to baroque sculpture and impressionist brushstrokes), Richard Meier’s cutting-edge architecture, and the visual splendor of seasonally changing gardens. Admission is free, but parking is $15 ($10 after 3pm).
oMuseum of ToleranceMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %reservations 310-772-2505; www.museumoftolerance.com; 9786 W Pico Blvd; adult/senior/student $15.50/12.50/11.50, Anne Frank Exhibit adult/senior/student $15.50/13.50/12.50; h10am-5pm Sun-Wed & Fri, to 9:30pm Thu, to 3:30pm Fri Nov-Mar; p)
Run by the Simon Wiesenthal Center, this powerful, deeply moving museum uses interactive technology to engage visitors in discussion and contemplation around racism and bigotry. Particular focus is given to the Holocaust, with a major basement exhibition that examines the social, political and economic conditions that led to the Holocaust as well as the experience of the millions persecuted. On the museum's 2nd floor, another major exhibition offers an intimate look into the life and impact of Anne Frank.
oFrederick R Weisman Art FoundationMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-277-5321; www.weismanfoundation.org; 265 N Carolwood Dr; h90min guided tours 10:30am & 2pm Mon-Fri, by appointment only)F
The late entrepreneur and philanthropist Frederick R Weisman had an insatiable passion for art, a fact confirmed when touring his former Holmby Hills home. From floor to ceiling, the mansion (and its manicured grounds) bursts with extraordinary works from visionaries such as Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Magritte, Rothko, Warhol, Rauschenberg and Ruscha. There's even a motorcycle painted by Keith Haring. Tours should be reserved at least a few days ahead.
1Malibu
The beach is king, of course, and whether you find a sliver of sand among the sandstone rock towers and topless sunbathers at El Matador or enjoy the wide loamy blonde beaches of Zuma and Westward, you'll have a special afternoon. Many A-listers have homes here and can sometimes be spotted shopping at the village-like Malibu Country Mart (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-456-7300; www.malibucountrymart.com; 3835 Cross Creek Rd, Malibu; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; c; gMTA line 534).
One of Malibu’s natural treasures is canyon-riddled Malibu Creek State Park (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %818-880-0367; www.malibucreekstatepark.org; 1925 Las Virgenes Rd, Cornell; parking $12; hdawn-dusk), a popular movie and TV filming location with hiking trails galore (parking $12). A string of famous Malibu beaches include aptly named Surfrider near Malibu Pier, secretive El Matador, family fave Zuma Beach and wilder Point Dume (beach parking $3 to $12.50).
oGetty VillaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-430-7300; www.getty.edu; 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy, Pacific Palisades; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; pc; gline 534 to Coastline Dr)F
Stunningly perched on an ocean-view hillside, this museum in a replica 1st-century Roman villa is an exquisite, 64-acre showcase for Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities. Dating back 7000 years, they were amassed by oil tycoon J Paul Getty. Galleries, peristiles, courtyards and lushly landscaped gardens ensconce all manner of friezes, busts and mosaics, millennia-old cut, blown and colored glass and brain-bending geometric configurations in the Hall of Colored Marbles. Other highlights include the Pompeii fountain and Temple of Herakles.
1Santa Monica
The belle by the beach mixes urban cool with a laid-back vibe. Tourists, teens and street performers throng car-free, chainstore-lined Third Street Promenade. For more local flavor, shop posh Montana Avenue or eclectic Main Street, backbone of the neighborhood once nicknamed ‘Dogtown,’ – the birthplace of skateboard culture. There’s free 90-minute parking in most public garages downtown.
Santa Monica & Venice
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
oSanta Monica PierLANDMARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-458-8901; www.santamonicapier.org; c)
Once the very end of the mythical Route 66 and still the object of a tourist love affair, the Santa Monica Pier dates back to 1908 and is the city’s most compelling landmark. There are arcades, carnival games, a vintage carousel, a Ferris wheel, a roller coaster and an aquarium, and the pier comes alive with free concerts (Twilight Dance Series) and outdoor movies in the summertime.
1Venice
Be it beach, canal or wetlands, you're never far from water in these oceanside communities. Prepare for sensory overload on Venice's Boardwalk, a one-of-a-kind experience. Buff bodybuilders brush elbows with street performers and sellers of sunglasses, string bikinis, Mexican ponchos and medical marijuana, all while cyclists and rollerbladers whiz by on the bike path and skateboarders and graffiti artists get their own domains. A few blocks away, the Venice Canals offer a genteel escape among funky to modernist homes around the waterways that lent the neighborhood its name. For a quieter beach scene, head down the Marina Del Rey peninsula (one of America's largest pleasure-boat harbors is just inland), or head around the Ballona Wetlands to the wide open beaches of Playa del Rey.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
LA INSIDER MOVES
Classic movies on Broadway What better place to enjoy cult-status films than in one of Broadway's old movie palaces? Throughout the year, Cinespia (http://cinespia.org) runs special film screenings in historic Downtown theaters usually not open to the public. Many of the films are screened in 35mm. Check the Cinespia website for upcoming movies.
City Hall Farmers Market City Hall's South Lawn transforms into a mouthwatering farmers market on Thursday mornings. You'll find everything from organic fruit and vegetables to fresh seafood, meats, specialty food producers and ready-to-eat-food stalls. Best of all, 10% of sales goes to neighborhood nonprofit LARABA (Los Angeles River Artists and Business Association).
Run, yoga and beer If you feel like really earning your beer, join Angel City Brewery on its weekly Sunday morning exercise and beer-drinking combo ($15). The session begins with a 30-minute warm-up run through Downtown before a Vinyasa Flow yoga session (bring your own mat). Sweaty and centered, it's time for your well-deserved draft. Sign up online at www.brew-yoga.com.
1Long Beach
Long Beach stretches along LA County’s southern flank, harboring the world’s third-busiest container port after Singapore and Hong Kong. Its industrial edge has been worn smooth downtown – Pine Ave is chockablock with restaurants and bars – and along the restyled waterfront. The Metro Blue Line connects Downtown LA with Long Beach in under an hour. Passport (www.lbtransit.com) minibuses shuttle around major tourist sights for free.
oBattleship IowaMUSEUM, MEMORIAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %877-446-9261; www.pacificbattleship.com; Berth 87, 250 S Harbor Blvd, San Pedro; adult/senior/child $20/17/12; h10am-5pm, last entry 4pm; pc; gMetro Silver Line)
This WWII to Cold War–era battleship is now permanently moored in San Pedro Bay and open to visitors as a museum. It's massive – 887ft long (that's 5ft longer than Titanic) and about as tall as an 18-story building. Step onto the gangway and download the app to take a self-guided audio tour of everything from the stateroom where FDR stayed to missile turrets and the enlisted men's galley, which churned out 8000 hot meals a day during WWII.
oAquarium of the PacificAQUARIUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %tickets 562-590-3100; www.aquariumofpacific.org; 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach; adult/senior/child $30/27/19; h9am-6pm; pc)
Long Beach’s most mesmerizing experience, the Aquarium of the Pacific is a vast, high-tech indoor ocean where sharks dart, jellyfish dance and sea lions frolic. More than 11,000 creatures inhabit four re-created habitats: the bays and lagoons of Baja California, the frigid northern Pacific, tropical coral reefs and local kelp forests.
In the Shark Lagoon, you can pet young sharks in a touch pool and go nose-to-nose – through a window – with their adult-sized cousins patrolling a larger tank.
oMuseum of Latin American ArtMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %562-437-1689; www.molaa.org; 628 Alamitos Ave, Long Beach; adult/senior & student/child $10/7/free, Sun free; h11am-5pm Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Fri; p)
This gem of a museum is the only one in the US to present art created since 1945 in Latin America and in Latino communities in the US, in important temporary and traveling exhibits. Blockbuster shows have recently included Caribbean art and the works of LA's own Frank Romero.
1Pasadena
Below the lofty San Gabriel Mountains, this city drips with wealth and gentility, feeling a world apart from urban LA. It’s known for its early 20th-century arts-and-crafts architecture and the Tournament of Roses Parade on New Year’s Day. Amble on foot around the shops, cafes, bars and restaurants of Old Town Pasadena, along Colorado Blvd east of Pasadena Ave. Metro Gold Line trains connect Pasadena and Downtown LA (20 minutes).
oHuntington Library, Art Collections & Botanical GardensMUSEUM, GARDEN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %626-405-2100; www.huntington.org; 1151 Oxford Rd, San Marino; adult weekday/weekend & holidays $23/25, child $10, 1st Thu each month free; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; p)
One of the most delightful, inspirational spots in LA, the Huntington is rightly a highlight of any trip to California thanks to a world-class mix of art, literary history and over 120 acres of themed gardens (any one of which would be worth a visit on its own), all set amid stately grounds. There's so much to see and do that it's hard to know where to begin; allow three to four hours for even a basic visit.
oGamble HouseARCHITECTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %info 626-793-3334, tickets 844-325-0712; www.gamblehouse.org; 4 Westmoreland Pl, Pasadena; tours adult/child $15/free; htours 11:30am-3pm Thu & Fri, noon-3pm Sat & Sun Sep-May, 11am-3pm Thu-Sat, noon-3pm Sun Jun-Aug, bookstore 11am-2pm Tue, 10am-5pm Thu-Sun; p)
This mansion in northwest central Pasadena has been called one of the 10 most architecturally significant homes in America, a 1908 masterpiece of California arts-and-crafts architecture built by Charles and Henry Greene for Procter & Gamble heir David Gamble. Incorporating 17 woods, art glass and subdued light, the entire home is a work of art, with its foundation, furniture and fixtures all united by a common design and theme inspired by its Southern California environs and Japanese and Chinese architecture.
Norton Simon MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.nortonsimon.org; 411 W Colorado Blvd, Pasadena; adult/child $12/free; hnoon-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 11am-8pm Fri & Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; p)
Rodin’s The Burghers of Calais standing guard by the entrance is only a mind-teasing overture to the full symphony of art in store at this exquisite museum. Norton Simon (1907–93) was an entrepreneur with a Midas touch and a passion for art who parlayed his millions into an admirable collection of Western art and Asian sculpture. Meaty captions really help tell each piece's story.
CALIFORNIA FACTS
Nickname Golden State
State motto Eureka (‘I Have Found It’)
Population 39.5 million
Area 155,780 sq miles
Capital city Sacramento (population 495,234)
Other cities Los Angeles (population 3,976,322), San Diego (population 1,394,928), San Francisco (population 870,887)
Sales tax 7.5%
Birthplace of Author John Steinbeck (1902–68), photographer Ansel Adams (1902–84), US president Richard Nixon (1913–94), pop-culture icon Marilyn Monroe (1926–62)
Home of The highest and lowest points in the contiguous US (Mt Whitney, Death Valley), world’s oldest, tallest and biggest living trees (ancient bristlecone pines, coast redwoods and giant sequoias, respectively)
Politics Majority Democrat, minority Republican, one in five Californians vote independent
Famous for Disneyland, earthquakes, Hollywood, hippies, Silicon Valley, surfing
Kitschiest souvenir ‘Mystery Spot’ bumper sticker
Driving distances Los Angeles to San Francisco 380 miles, San Francisco to Yosemite Valley 190 miles
2Activities
Despite spending a lot of time jammed on freeways, Angelenos love to get physical. Theirs is a city made for pace-quickening thrills, with spectacular mountain hikes, one of the country's largest urban nature reserves and surf-pounded beach. Add to this almost 300 days of sunshine and you'll forgive the locals for looking so, so good.
Hiking
If hiking doesn’t feel like an indigenous LA activity to you, you need to reassess. This town is hemmed in and defined by two mountain ranges and countless canyons. In the San Gabriel Mountains, trails wind from Mt Wilson into granite peak wilderness, once the domain of the Gabrielino people and the setting for California’s last grizzly-bear sighting. The Chumash roamed the Santa Monica Mountains (www.nps.gov/samo/index.htm), which are smaller, but still offer spectacular views of chaparral-draped peaks with stark drops into the Pacific. The Backbone Trail spans the range, but our favorite hike is to Sandstone Peak. Day hikes in Topanga Canyon State Park (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-455-2465; www.parks.ca.gov; 20828 Entrada Rd, Topanga; per vehicle $10; h8am-dusk), Malibu Canyon (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Malibu Canyon Rd, Malibu), Point Mugu and Leo Carrillo (
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-457-8143; www.parks.ca.gov; 35000 W Pacific Coast Hwy, Malibu; per car $12; h8am-10pm; pc) state parks are also recommended. If you only have an hour or two, check out Runyon (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.runyoncanyonhike.com; 2000 N Fuller Ave; hdawn-dusk) or Bronson (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %818-243-1145; www.laparks.org; 3200 Canyon Dr; h5am-10:30pm) canyons in Hollywood. For more advice about trails in and around Southern California check out www.trails.com, or buy any of Afoot and Afield: Los Angeles County: A Comprehensive Hiking Guide (Wilderness Press; 2009), Secret Walks: A Walking Guide to the Hidden Trails of Los Angeles (Santa Monica Press; 2015) or 60 Hikes Within 60 Miles (Menasha Ridge Press; 2009).
Cycling & In-line Skating
Get scenic exercise pedaling or skating along the paved South Bay Bicycle Trail, which parallels the beach for most of the 22 miles between Santa Monica and Pacific Palisades. Rental shops are plentiful in busy beach towns. Warning: it’s crowded on weekends.
Surfing & Swimming
Top beaches for swimming are Malibu’s Leo Carrillo State Park, Santa Monica State Beach and the South Bay’s Hermosa Beach. Malibu’s Surfrider Beach is a legendary surfing spot. Parking rates vary seasonally.
‘Endless summer’ is, sorry to report, a myth – much of the year you’ll want a wetsuit in the Pacific. Water temperatures become tolerable by June and peak just under 70°F (21°C) in August. Water quality varies – check the ‘Beach Report Card’ at http://brc.healthebay.org.
TTours
oEsotouricBUS
(%213-915-8687; www.esotouric.com; tours $58)
Discover LA’s lurid and fascinating underbelly on these offbeat, insightful and entertaining walking and bus tours themed around famous crime sites (Black Dahlia anyone?), literary lions (Chandler to Bukowski) and more.
oLos Angeles ConservancyWALKING
(%213-623-2489; www.laconservancy.org; adult/child $15/10)
Downtown LA’s intriguing historical and architectural gems – from an art-deco penthouse to a beaux-arts ballroom and a dazzling silent-movie theater – are revealed on this nonprofit group's 2½-hour walking tours. To see some of LA’s grand historic movie theaters from the inside, the conservancy also offers the Last Remaining Seats film series, screening classic movies in gilded theaters.
Dearly DepartedBUS
(%855-600-3323; www.dearlydepartedtours.com; tours $50-85)
This long-running, occasionally creepy, frequently hilarious tour will clue you in on where celebs kicked the bucket, George Michael dropped his trousers, Hugh Grant received certain services and the Charles Manson gang murdered Sharon Tate. Not for kids.
zFestivals & Events
First FridaySTREET CARNIVAL
(www.abbotkinneyfirstfridays.com; h5-11pm 1st Fri each month)
Businesses along Abbot Kinney Blvd stay open late and the street is filled with food trucks at this monthly street fair.
Academy AwardsFILM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oscars.org)
Ogle your favorite film stars from the Dolby Theatre’s red-carpet-adjacent bleachers. Apply in November or December for one of around 700 lucky spots.
Rose ParadePARADE
(www.tournamentofroses.com; hJan)
This cavalcade of flower-festooned floats snakes through Pasadena on New Year’s Day. Get close-ups during post-parade viewing at Victory Park. Avoid traffic and take the Metro Rail Gold Line to Memorial Park.
West Hollywood Halloween CarnavalCARNIVAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval)
This rambunctious street fair brings 500,000 revelers – many in over-the-top and/or X-rated costumes – out for a day of dancing, dishing and flirting on Halloween. In late October.
LA FOR CHILDREN
Keeping kids happy is child’s play in LA. The sprawling Los Angeles Zoo in family-friendly Griffith Park is a sure bet. Dino fans will dig the La Brea Tar Pits and the Natural History Museum, while budding scientists crowd the Griffith Observatory and California Science Center. For under-the-sea creatures, head to the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach. The amusement park at Santa Monica Pier is fun for all ages. Activities for younger kids are more limited at tween-teen-oriented Universal Studios Hollywood (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %800-864-8377; www.universalstudioshollywood.com; 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City; admission from $99, child under 3yr free; hdaily, hours vary; pc; mRed Line to Universal City). In neighboring Orange County, Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm are the first and last word in theme parks.
4Sleeping
For seaside life, base yourself in Santa Monica, Venice or Long Beach. Cool-hunters and party people will be happiest in Hollywood or WeHo; culture vultures should go to Downtown LA. Prices do not include lodging taxes (12% to 14%).
4Downtown
Ace HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %213-623-3233; www.acehotel.com/losangeles; 929 S Broadway; lofts from $400; p
a
W
s)
The ever-hip, buzzy, 182-room Ace is big on quirky details: Haas Brothers murals in the lobby and restaurant, whimsically themed cocktails at the rooftop bar and retro-inspired rooms with boxer-style robes, blank music sheets and, in many cases, record players or guitars. Small rooms can feel tight, so consider opting for a medium. Valet parking is $36 a night.
4Hollywood
USA Hostels HollywoodHOSTEL$
(
MAP
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; %800-524-6783, 323-462-3777; www.usahostels.com; 1624 Schrader Blvd; dm $38-49, r with bath from $120; a
iW; mRed Line to Hollywood/Vine)
This sociable hostel puts you within steps of the Hollywood party circuit. Private rooms are a bit cramped, but making new friends is easy during staff-organized barbecues, comedy nights and various walking tours. Freebies include wi-fi and a cook-your-own-pancake breakfast. It has cushy lounge seating on the front porch and free beach shuttles, too.
oMama ShelterBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %323-785-6666; www.mamashelter.com; 6500 Selma Ave; r from $179; aiW; mRed Line to Hollywood/Vine)
Hip, affordable Mama Shelter keeps things playful with its lobby gumball machines, foosball table and live streaming of guests' selfies and videos. Standard rooms are small but cool, with quality beds and linen and subway-tiled bathrooms with decent-sized showers. Quirky in-room touches include movie scripts, masks and Apple TVs with free Netflix. The rooftop bar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %323-785-6600; www.mamashelter.com/en/los-angeles/restaurants/rooftop; 6500 Selma Ave; h11am-midnight; mRed Line to Hollywood/Vine) is one of LA's best.
oHollywood Roosevelt HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
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; %323-856-1970; www.thehollywoodroosevelt.com; 7000 Hollywood Blvd; d from $282; paiWs; mRed Line to Hollywood/Highland)
Roosevelt heaves with Hollywood lore: Shirley Temple learned to tap dance on the stairs off the lobby, Marilyn Monroe shot her first print ad by the pool (later decorated by David Hockney) and the ghost of actor Montgomery Clift can still be heard playing the bugle. Poolside rooms channel a modernist, Palm Springs vibe, while those in the main building mix contemporary and 1920s accents.
4West Hollywood & Mid-City
oPalihotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %323-272-4588; www.pali-hotel.com; 7950 Melrose Ave, Mid-City; r from $195; piW)
We love the rustic wood-panelled exterior, the polished-concrete floor in the lobby, the elemental Thai massage spa, and the 32 contemporary rooms with two-tone paint jobs, a wall-mounted flat-screen TV, and enough room for a sofa. Some have terraces. Terrific all-around value.
oChateau MarmontHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %323-656-1010; www.chateaumarmont.com; 8221 W Sunset Blvd, Hollywood; r $450, ste from $820; p
naWs)
The French-flavored indulgence may look dated, but this faux castle has long lured A-listers with its hilltop perch, five-star mystique and legendary discretion. Howard Hughes used to spy on bikini beauties from the same balcony suite that became the favorite of U2's Bono. If nothing else, it's worth stopping by for a cocktail at Bar Marmont (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %323-650-0575; www.chateaumarmont.com; 8171 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood; h6pm-2am).
4Beverly Hills
Avalon HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %844-328-2566, 310-277-5221; www.avalon-hotel.com/beverly-hills; 9400 W Olympic Blvd, Beverly Hills; r from $289; paiWs
#)
Mid-century modern gets a 21st-century spin at this fashion-crowd fave, which was Marilyn Monroe’s old pad in its days as an apartment building. Funky retro rooms are all unique, but most have arched walls, marble slab desks and night stands, as well as playful art and sculpture. Perks include a sexy hourglass-shaped pool. Call it affordable glamor.
oMontageHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %888-860-0788; www.montagebeverlyhills.com; 225 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills; r/ste from $695/1175; piWs)
Drawing on-point eye candy and serious wealth, the 201-room Montage balances elegance with warmth and affability. Models and moguls lunch by the gorgeous rooftop pool, while the property's sprawling five-star spa is a Moroccan-inspired marvel, with both single-sex and unisex plunge pools. Rooms are classically styled, with custom Sealy mattresses, dual marble basins, spacious showers and deep-soaking tubs.
4Santa Monica
HI Los Angeles – Santa MonicaHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-393-9913; www.hilosangeles.org; 1436 2nd St; dm low season $27-45, May-Oct $40-55, r with shared bath $109-140, with private bath $160-230; naiW; mExpo Line to Downtown Santa Monica)
Near the beach and Promenade, this hostel has an enviable location and recently modernized facilities that rival properties charging many times more. Its approximately 275 beds in single-sex dorms are clean and safe, private rooms are decorated with hipster chic and public spaces (courtyard, library, TV room, dining room, communal kitchen) let you lounge and surf.
Sea Shore MotelMOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-392-2787; www.seashoremotel.com; 2637 Main St; r $125-175, ste $200-300; paW)
The friendly, family-run lodgings at this comfy 25-unit motel put you just a Frisbee toss from the beach on happening Main St (quadruple-pane windows help cut street noise). The tiled, rattan-decorated rooms are basic, but 2nd-floor rooms have high ceilings and families can stretch out in the suites (basically full apartments) with kitchen and balcony a few doors down.
oPalihouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %310-394-1279; www.palihousesantamonica.com; 1001 3rd St; r/studios from $315/350; paiW#)
LA's grooviest hotel brand (not named Ace) occupies the 38 rooms, studios and one-bedroom apartments of the 1927 Spanish Colonial Embassy Hotel, with antique-meets-hipster-chic style. Each comfy room is slightly different, but look for picnic-table-style desks and wallpaper with intricate sketches of animals. Most rooms have full kitchens (and we love the coffee mugs with lifelike drawings of fish).
4Long Beach
oHotel MayaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %562-435-7676; www.hotelmayalongbeach.com; 700 Queensway Dr, Long Beach; r from $179; paiWs#)
West of the Queen Mary, this boutique property hits you with hip immediately upon entering the rusted-steel, glass and magenta-paneled lobby. The feel continues in the 199 rooms (coral tile, river-rock headboards, Mayan-icon accents), set in four 1970s-era hexagons with views of downtown Long Beach that are worth the upcharge.
4Pasadena
oBissell House B&BB&B$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %626-441-3535; www.bissellhouse.com; 201 S Orange Grove Ave, South Pasadena; r from $159; pWs)
Antiques, hardwood floors and a crackling fireplace make this secluded Victorian (1887) B&B on ‘Millionaire’s Row’ a bastion of warmth and romance. The hedge-framed garden feels like a sanctuary, and there’s a pool for cooling off on hot summer days. The Prince Albert room has gorgeous wallpaper and a claw-foot tub. All seven rooms have private baths.
5Eating
Bring an appetite. A big one. LA's cross-cultural make up is reflected at its table, which is an epic global feast. And while there's no shortage of just-like-the-motherland dishes – from Cantonese xiao long bao to Ligurian farinata – it's the takes on tradition that really thrill. Ever tried Korean-Mexican tacos? Or a vegan cream-cheese donut with jam, basil and balsamic reduction? LA may be many things, but a culinary bore isn't one of them.
5Downtown
Cole'sSANDWICHES$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %213-622-4090; http://213hospitality.com/project/coles; 118 E 6th St; sandwiches $10-13.50; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; W)
An atmospheric old basement tavern with vintage vinyl booths, original glass lighting and historic photos, Cole's is known for originating the French Dip sandwich way back in 1908, when those things cost a nickel. You know the drill – French bread piled with sliced lamb, beef, turkey, pork or pastrami, dipped once or twice in au jus.
oSushi GenJAPANESE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %213-617-0552; www.sushigen.org; 422 E 2nd St; sushi $11-23; h11:15am-2pm & 5:30-9:45pm Tue-Fri, 5-9:45pm Sat; p; mGold Line to Little Tokyo/Arts District)
Come early to grab a table at this classic sushi spot, where bantering Japanese chefs carve thick slabs of melt-in-your-mouth salmon, buttery toro (tuna belly), Japanese snapper and more. At lunch, perch yourself at the sushi counter for à la carte options, or queue for a table in the dining room, where the sashimi lunch special ($17) is a steal.
oOtiumMODERN AMERICAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %213-935-8500; http://otiumla.com; 222 S Hope St, Downtown; dishes $15-45; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Tue-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm & 5:30-11pm Fri, 11am-2:30pm & 5:30-11pm Sat, 11am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Sun; W)
In a modernist pavilion beside the Broad is this fun, of-the-moment hot spot helmed by chef Timothy Hollingsworth. Prime ingredients conspire in unexpected ways, from the crunch of wild rice and amaranth in an eye-candy salad of avocado, beets and pomegranate, to a twist of lime and sake in flawlessly al dente whole-wheat bucatini with Dungeness crab.
oBestiaITALIAN$$$
(
MAP
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; %213-514-5724; www.bestiala.com; 2121 7th Pl; pizzas $16-19, pasta $19-29, mains $28-120; h5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; p)
Years on, this loud, buzzing, industrial dining space remains the most sought-after reservation in town (book at least a week ahead). The draw remains its clever, produce-driven take on Italian flavors, from charred pizzas topped with housemade 'nduja (a spicy Calabrian paste), to a sultry stinging-nettle raviolo with egg, mixed mushrooms, hazelnut and ricotta. The wine list celebrates the boutique and obscure.
5Hollywood & Griffith Park
Life Food OrganicVEGETARIAN$
(
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; %323-466-0927; www.lifefoodorganic.com; 1507 N Cahuenga Ave; dishes $7-14; h7:30am-9pm; W)
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If you're done with the tacos and cocktails, detox at this little health shop and eatery. Slurp on an almond-milk chocolate shake and fill up on the likes of turmeric-and-quinoa salads, veggie chili burgers and chocolate-cream pie. Some of it might sound naughty, but everything on the menu is raw, vegetarian and nutritious.
oPetit TroisFRENCH$$
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; %323-468-8916; http://petittrois.com; mains $14-36; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; p)
Good things come in small packages…like tiny, no-reservations Petit Trois! Owned by acclaimed TV chef Ludovic Lefebvre, its two long counters (the place is too small for tables) are where food-lovers squeeze in for smashing, honest, Gallic-inspired grub, from a ridiculously light Boursin-stuffed omelette to a showstopping double cheeseburger served with a standout foie gras–infused red-wine bordelaise.
oProvidenceMODERN AMERICAN$$$
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; %323-460-4170; www.providencela.com; 5955 Melrose Ave; lunch mains $40-45, tasting menus $120-250; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm Sat, 5:30-9pm Sun; p)
The top restaurant pick by preeminent LA food critic Jonathan Gold for four years running, this two-starred Michelin darling turns superlative seafood into arresting, nuanced dishes that might see abalone paired with eggplant, turnip and nori, or spiny lobster conspire decadently with macadamia nut and earthy black truffle. À la carte options are available at lunch only.
oOsteria & Pizzeria MozzaITALIAN$$$
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; %osteria 323-297-0100, pizzeria 323-297-0101; http://la.osteriamozza.com; 6602 Melrose Ave; pizzas $11-25, osteria mains $29-38; hpizzeria noon-midnight, osteria 5:30-11pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat, 5-10pm Sun; p)
Osteria Mozza crafts fine cuisine from market-fresh, seasonal ingredients, but being a Mario Batali joint, you can expect adventure – think squid-ink chitarra freddi with Dungeness crab, sea urchin and jalapeño – and consistent excellence. Reservations are recommended. Next door, Pizzeria Mozza is more laid-back and cheaper, its gorgeous thin-crust pies topped with combos such as squash blossoms, tomato and creamy burrata.
5West Hollywood & Mid-City
Original Farmers MarketMARKET$
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; %323-933-9211; www.farmersmarketla.com; 6333 W 3rd St; mains $6-12; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; pc)
The Farmers Market is a great spot for a casual meal any time of day, especially if the rug rats are tagging along. There are lots of options here, from gumbo and diner food to Singapore-style noodles and tacos, sit-down or takeout. Before or afterwards, go check out the Grove (
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; www.thegrovela.com; 189 The Grove Dr; pc; gMTA lines 16, 17, 780 to Wilshire & Fairfax), next door.
Canter'sDELI$$
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; %323-651-2030; www.cantersdeli.com; 419 N Fairfax Ave, Mid-City; h24hr; p)
As old-school delis go, Canter's is hard to beat. A fixture in the traditionally Jewish Fairfax district since 1931, it serves up the requisite pastrami, corned beef and matzo-ball soup with a side of sass by seen-it-all waitresses, in a rangy room with deli and bakery counters up front.
EP & LPSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$
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; %310-855-9955; http://eplosangeles.com; 603 N La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood; small plates $10-18, large plates $20-34; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)
Louis Tikaram, Australia's Chef of the Year in 2014, has brought the creative, bold flavors of his Fijian-Chinese heritage – kakoda (Fijian-style ceviche), Chiang Mai larb (spiced salmon stands in for meat), and crispy chicken with black vinegar, chili and lemon – to some of LA's most enviable real estate, at the corner of Melrose and La Cienega.
oCatch LAFUSION$$$
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; %323-347-6060; http://catchrestaurants.com/catchla; 8715 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood; shared dishes $11-31, dinner mains $28-41; h11am-3pm Sat & Sun, 5pm-2am daily; p)
An LA-scene extraordinaire. You may well find sidewalk paparazzi stalking celebrity guests and a doorman to check your reservation, but all that's forgotten once you're up in this 3rd-floor rooftop restaurant/bar above WeHo. The Pacific Rim–inspired menu features super-creative cocktails and shared dishes such as truffle sashimi, black-cod lettuce wraps, and scallop and cauliflower with tamarind brown butter.
5Santa Monica & Venice
oSanta Monica Farmers MarketsMARKET$
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; www.smgov.net/portals/farmersmarket; Arizona Ave, btwn 2nd & 3rd Sts; hArizona Ave 8:30am-1:30pm Wed, 8am-1pm Sat, Main St 8:30am-1:30pm Sun; c)S
You haven’t really experienced Santa Monica until you’ve explored one of its outdoor farmers markets stocked with organic fruits, vegetables, flowers, baked goods and freshly shucked oysters. The mack daddy is the Wednesday market, around the intersection of 3rd and Arizona – it's the biggest and arguably the best for fresh produce, and often patrolled by local chefs.
oGjelinaAMERICAN$$$
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; %310-450-1429; www.gjelina.com; 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice; veggies, salads & pizzas $10-18, large plates $15-45; h8am-midnight; c; gBig Blue Bus line 18)
If one restaurant defines the new Venice, it's this. Carve out a slip on the communal table between the hipsters and yuppies, or get your own slab of wood on the elegant stone terrace, and dine on imaginative small plates (raw yellowtail spiced with chili and mint and drenched in olive oil and blood orange) and sensational thin-crust, wood-fired pizza.
oCassiaSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$$
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; %310-393-6699; 1314 7th St; appetizers $12-24, mains $18-77; h5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; p)
Ever since it opened in 2015, open, airy Cassia has made about every local and national 'best' list of LA restaurants. Chef Bryant Ng draws on his Chinese-Singaporean heritage in dishes such as kaya toast (with coconut jam, butter and a slow-cooked egg), 'sunbathing' prawns, and the encompassing Vietnamese pot-au-feu: short-rib stew, veggies, bone marrow and delectable accompaniments.
5Long Beach
oFourth & OliveALSATIAN$$
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; %562-269-0731; www.4thandolive.com; 743 E 4th St, East Village, Long Beach; mains $15-29; h4:30-10pm Mon & Tue, 11am-10pm Wed, Thu & Sun, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat)
There's much to love about this new Cal-French bistro: farmers-market produce, small-farm-raised beef and pork, housemade sausages, classic dishes such as steak frites and choucroute garnie, and low-key service, all under a high-raftered roof with generous windows to watch the world go by. And many of its staff are disabled veterans, so you're doing good while eating well.
5Pasadena
RaciónSPANISH$$$
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; %626-396-3090; www.racionrestaurant.com; 119 W Green St, Pasadena; small plates $4-14, mains $20-58; h6-10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-3pm & 6-10:30pm Fri, 11:30am-3pm & 5:30-10:30pm Sat, 5:30-10pm Sun; mGold Line to Memorial Park or Del Mar)
A foodie favorite, this minimalist, Basque-inspired spot offers tapas such as conservas (pâte), chicken croquettes and seared prawns in salsa verde. It house cures yellowfin tuna in anchovy vinaigrette, and offers larger plates (raciones) ranging from a wild market fish with heirloom beans to duck breast with date jam and slow-braised lamb belly.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Whether you're after an organic Kurimi espresso, a craft cocktail made with peanut-butter-washed Campari, or a saison brewed with Chinatown-sourced Oolong tea, LA pours on cue. From post-industrial coffee roasters and breweries to mid-century lounges, classic Hollywood martini bars and cocktail-pouring bowling alleys, LA serves its drinks with a generous splash of wow. So do the right thing and raise your glass to America's finest town.
Angel City BreweryMICROBREWERY
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; %213-622-1261; www.angelcitybrewery.com; 216 S Alameda St; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-1am Sun)
Where suspension cables were once manufactured, craft brews are now made and poured. Located on the edge of the Arts District, it's a popular spot to knock back an India pale ale or chai-spiced Imperial stout, listen to some tunes and chow down some food-truck tacos.
oNo VacancyBAR
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; %323-465-1902; www.novacancyla.com; 1727 N Hudson Ave; h8pm-2am; mRed Line to Hollywood/Vine)
If you prefer your cocktail sessions with plenty of wow factor, make a reservation online, style up (no sportswear, shorts or logos) and head to this old shingled Victorian. A vintage scene of dark timber panels and elegant banquettes, it has bars in nearly every corner, tended by clever barkeeps while burlesque dancers and a tightrope walker entertain the droves of party people.
oDirty LaundryBAR
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; %323-462-6531; http://dirtylaundrybarla.com; 1725 N Hudson Ave; h10pm-2am Tue-Sat; mRed Line to Hollywood/Vine)
Under a cotton-candy-pink apartment block of no particular import is this funky den of musty odor, low ceilings, exposed pipes and good times. There's fine whiskey, funkalicious tunes on the turntables and plenty of eye-candy peeps with low inhibitions. Alas, there are also velvet-rope politics at work here, so reserve a table to make sure you slip through.
oAbbeyGAY & LESBIAN
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; %310-289-8410; www.theabbeyweho.com; 692 N Robertson Blvd, West Hollywood; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, from 10am Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)
It's been called the best gay bar in the world, and who are we to argue? Once a humble coffee house, the Abbey has expanded into WeHo’s bar/club/restaurant of record. It has so many different-flavored martinis and mojitos that you’d think they were invented here, plus a full menu of upscale pub food (mains $14 to $21).
oPolo LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR
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; %310-887-2777; www.dorchestercollection.com/en/los-angeles/the-beverly-hills-hotel; Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd, Beverly Hills; h7am-1:30am)
For a classic LA experience, dress up and swill martinis in the Beverly Hills Hotel's legendary bar. Charlie Chaplin had a standing lunch reservation at booth 1 and it was here that HR Haldeman and John Ehrlichman learned of the Watergate break-in in 1972. There's a popular Sunday jazz brunch (adult/child $75/35).
oBasement TavernBAR
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; www.basementtavern.com; 2640 Main St; h5pm-2am)
A creative speakeasy, housed in the basement of the Victorian, and our favorite well in Santa Monica. We love it for its craftsman cocktails, cozy booths, island bar and nightly live-music calendar that features blues, jazz, bluegrass and rock bands. It gets way too busy on weekends for our taste, but weeknights can be special.
oPikeBAR
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; %562-437-4453; www.pikelongbeach.com; 1836 E 4th St, Long Beach; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; gline 22)
Adjacent to Retro Row, this nautical-themed dive bar, owned by Chris Reece of the band Social Distortion, brings in the cool kids for live music acts every night – with no cover, thank you – and serves beer by the pitcher or bottle and cocktails such as the Mezcarita and Greenchelada (a michelada with cucumber, jalapeño and lime).