For years, an egg stand at the Union Square Farmer’s Market in Manhattan posted a handwritten cardboard sign with the following chastisement: “New Yorkers—Milk does not come from Chickens.” It seems that everyone stopped there for both fresh eggs and milk, and this particular stand only sold the eggs. It’s good for a chuckle, but even the city slickers dressed in black were not too far off. Eggs and dairy go together.
The South has always been a predominantly agrarian society, and farmyard animals including cows and chickens have supplied part of our diet since Colonial times. However, before improvements in shipping and refrigeration, cheese and milk products were not common to all and were considered a luxury unless you lived on a farm. Indeed, to the farm women who did the work, the action of procuring the milk and making the cheese and butter never felt too luxurious.
When Mama was very young, she and her two sisters hand-churned butter, fed the chickens, and collected the eggs. Their home was not a working farm; they simply lived in the country and that was part of life. Churning butter is physical exercise, and an exercise in patience. It is important to keep the same tempo, neither too fast nor too slow. Meme stayed on her young charges to make sure they did the job right, pounding the dasher up and down until she felt the butter had formed. Then they collected and kneaded the butter to remove any pockets of buttermilk trapped inside. Finally, the butter was washed and placed into small wooden boxes for pressing, boxes my grandmother had used when she was young. The churn made of thick, pale-gray pottery now sits in my office, and the dovetailed butter boxes are on a shelf in my kitchen, reminders of what my mother would most certainly argue were not “simpler times.”
French cooking is virtually synonymous with butter. The region of Normandy is famous for its rich cream, milk, and butter. Many classic French sauces are based on or finished with butter, and fish and chicken are often sauteed in butter. I once witnessed a French chef deep-fry butter. He cut the butter into logs the size of a pencil, then coated the logs in flour, egg wash, and breadcrumbs. The crusted batons were transferred to the freezer. Once the logs were frozen solid, he deep-fried them in oil to a rich golden brown and alternated them on the serving plate with blanched asparagus. They looked like bad bar food, mozzarella cheese sticks. Oh, but no, when the tines of the fork cracked the crunchy crust, the butter, which had liquefied, flooded the plate to coat the asparagus. It was obscenely delicious.
Not long ago, a Southern breakfast was a massive meal of eggs, grits, fried country ham or bacon, and buttery biscuits. Rib-sticking breakfasts were a robust way to start a long day of hard work on the farm. This has changed; not only do we skip big breakfast productions for lack of time, but we are also, as a whole, much more sedentary and need to eat less fat. Eggs are high-quality protein, and they’ve regained a place in a balanced diet after years of controversy over their cholesterol content. Look for farm-fresh or free-range organic eggs for the best and tastiest results.
Soufflés are among the most elegant egg-based dishes in cuisine—and they tend to intimidate even skilled cooks, even though they are really not that hard to make. If your soufflé skills are shaky or nonexistent, read this section before you make any of the soufflé recipes in this book.
There are two basic kinds of baked soufflés: savory, which are served as a first course or a light meal, and sweet, which are served as desserts. (Cold soufflés are sweet and are not really soufflés at all, but an illusion. They are frozen concoctions, often held together with gelatin, that mimic the tall “top hat” of a properly prepared baked soufflé.) The name itself originates from the French souffler, which means “to blow up.” It is controlling the “blowing up” that can be tricky. Simple baked soufflés are best served as a main-course lunch, a light supper, or an elegant starter, and of course, as the pièce de résistance for dessert.
Savory soufflés are composed of stiffly beaten egg whites and a flavored base made from a very thick, well-seasoned béchamel sauce. The sauce must be highly seasoned with flavorings and aromatics to compensate for the blandness of the egg whites. A savory soufflé may also contain finely chopped, well-drained additions such as spinach, tomato, or fish. Large, wet chunks of food will not only sink, but they will also weigh down a soufflé and hamper its rise.
Baked dessert soufflés are made by one of two methods: by preparing a flavored meringue by simply adding fruit puree or melted chocolate to a cooked meringue or by preparing a flavored base of crème pâtissière (pastry cream) that performs similarly to the béchamel sauce. (Pastry cream is a sweet, thick, flour-based egg custard that is then combined with stiffly beaten egg whites.) Dessert soufflés are very simple, since the sugar and chocolate help create a very stable foam.
Choosing the Soufflé Mold: the classic soufflé mold is a porcelain dish with straight sides. One common mistake is baking a soufflé in a dish that is either too large or too small for the mixture. When egg whites are beaten, they increase in volume seven to eight times. Therefore, a soufflé mixture should fill to the absolute rim of the dish since it will increase in volume two to three times as it bakes. In general, a soufflé made with five egg whites needs a 1½-quart dish, and a soufflé made with seven to eight egg whites needs a 2½-quart dish.
Preparing the Soufflé Mold: the dish must also be well coated with softened (not melted), room temperature butter to ensure the soufflé will climb the sides of the dish and not stick as the mixture rises and expands. Often when the mixture sticks, it will create a lopsided soufflé. To coat the dish, brush the inside of the soufflé mold with butter and place it in the refrigerator. As the butter chills and firms, you can very clearly see any spots you might have missed. Then dust the well-buttered dish evenly with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, fine dry breadcrumbs, or cornmeal; or, for dessert soufflés, cookie crumbs, finely chopped nuts, or granulated sugar. Turn the mold upside down and tap to remove excess crumbs.
Properly beaten egg whites are the key to a masterful soufflé. While the soufflé is in the oven, the air trapped inside the egg whites expands, causing the soufflé to rise. Beating egg whites is quite simply incorporating air into the egg white foam. Fresh eggs will produce a more stable foam. A downy mass of beaten egg whites is actually thousands of minute air bubbles connected by a film of egg white—a foam. To create a stable foam, it is imperative that the whites be absolutely free of any yolk or fat. Even a mere drop of yolk or fat will hinder the foam formation. The bowl and beaters must be spotlessly clean; use only glass or stainless steel bowls, as plastic bowls can retain a film of oil.
It is easier to separate eggs when they are cold and straight from the refrigerator; the whites and yolks are firmer and less likely to break. When separating eggs, crack one egg at a time into a cup, transferring each white to the mixing bowl only after it is successfully separated. There is nothing worse that ruining the entire batch on the last egg! Many soufflé recipes will call for one or two more whites than yolks to enhance the volume. Even though it is best to separate eggs when they are cold, egg whites will whip to greater volume when they have had a chance to warm slightly. To achieve this, let the egg whites stand at room temperature in the mixing bowl while you assemble the remaining ingredients.
When ready to beat the whites, start slowly. In the clean metal bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites on low speed until foamy. Add a bit of cream of tartar or vinegar. Adding acid helps create a stable foam that will hold up until heat cooks the egg proteins and sets the soufflé.
After adding the acid, increase the speed to high and continue beating just until the whites are stiff, but not dry, and no longer slip when the bowl is tilted. (My mentor Nathalie Dupree used to hold the bowl upside down over my head to test whether I had properly whipped the whites!) If the whites are underbeaten, they won’t achieve full volume. If overbeaten, the whites will appear “rocky” and can’t hold air well because all of the bubbles are smashed. Rocky, overbeaten whites will not expand properly when heated. Sometimes beating in an additional egg white might bring back a batch of overbeaten whites.
How to Fold: once you have gone to the trouble of putting all that air in the whites, it is important not to deflate the whites when mixing them with the soufflé base. Folding is folding, not stirring. Gentle folding is the key to maintaining volume. I sacrifice about a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the yolk mixture to lighten the yolk mixture before adding the rest of the whites. This helps blend the whites with the base and makes the real folding easier. Then add the remaining whites. Using a large rubber spatula, gradually combine the mixtures with a downward stroke into the bowl, continuing across the bottom, up the side, and over the top of the mixture. Come up through the center every few strokes and rotate the bowl often as you fold. You are bringing a bit of the soufflé mixture at the bottom of the bowl up and over the egg whites. Fold just until there are no streaks remaining. Then, gently pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Lastly, run your thumb around the inside rim of the dish, making a shallow trough around the edge of the batter. This will help the soufflés rise up straight and tall.
Placement in the Oven: put the soufflé on the lower to middle rack of a preheated nonconvection oven and leave it alone. Most large soufflés are baked at 400°F, or are started at 400°F, then reduced to 375°F. Small, individual soufflés are baked at 400°F. The soufflé needs that burst of high heat to rise. Don’t dare open the oven door while the soufflé is baking: a cool draft or a slammed oven door will make the soufflé fall.
Don’t fret if it does fall while baking, for whatever reason. For a quick fix for a savory soufflé, turn the mixture into another baking dish, drizzle some heavy cream over it, sprinkle freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on top, and return it to the oven for 10 minutes. It will miraculously rise again for a delicious twice-baked soufflé!
When It’s Done: a soufflé is finished cooking when it has risen two to three inches above the rim of the mold and is golden brown on top. The French prefer soufflés with slightly runny centers that are spooned over portions as a sauce. These soufflés are not quite cooked through all the way and are more fragile, but delicious! It’s an age-old rule that diners wait for the soufflé, not the soufflé for the diners! Whisk it out of the oven to the table immediately. Serve a large soufflé by gently breaking the top crust into portions with two spoons held back to back. Then, lightly spoon it out, including some of the soft center and crisp crust in each portion.
Makes one 10-inch quiche
French Pie Pastry (recipe follows), blind baked
1½ cups Vidalia Onion Confit
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
Prepare the pastry shell and the onion confit; let both cool.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. To make the custard, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, milk, cream, parsley, and cayenne pepper in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Spread the cooled onion confit in the pastry shell. Pour the custard over the onions. Bake until the custard is lightly browned and set, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes one (10-inch) tart shell
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into bits and chilled
2 large egg yolks
5 to 6 tablespoons cold water
To prepare the dough, combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Add the butter. Process until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 8 to 10 seconds. Add the egg yolks and pulse to combine.
With the processor on pulse, add the ice water a tablespoon at a time. Pulse until the mixture holds together as a soft, but not crumbly or sticky, dough. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm and evenly moist, about 30 minutes.
To prepare the dough, lightly flour a clean work surface and rolling pin. Place the dough disk in the center of the floured surface. Roll out the dough, starting in the center and rolling up to, but not over, the top edge of the dough. Return to the center, and roll down to, but not over, the bottom edge. Give the dough a quarter turn, and continue rolling, repeating the quarter turns until you have a disk about ⅛ inch thick.
Drape the dough over the rolling pin and transfer to a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, unrolling over the tin. With one hand lift the pastry and with the other gently tuck it into the pan, being careful not to stretch or pull the dough. Let the pastry settle into the bottom of the pan. Take a small piece of dough and shape it into a ball. Press the ball of dough around the bottom edges of the tart pan, snugly shaping the pastry to the pan without tearing it. Remove any excess pastry by rolling the pin across the top of the pan.
Prick the bottom of the pastry all over with the tines of a fork to help prevent shrinkage during baking. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
To blind bake, preheat the oven to 425°F. Crumple a piece of parchment paper, then lay it out flat over the bottom of the pastry. Weight the paper with pie weights, dried beans, or uncooked rice. This will keep the unfilled pie crust from puffing up in the oven.
For a partially baked shell that will be filled and baked further, bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and remove the paper and weights. (You can reuse the rice or beans for blind-baking a number of times.) The shell can now be filled and baked further, according to the recipe directions. For a fully baked shell that will hold an uncooked filling, bake the empty shell until a deep golden brown, about 30 minutes total.
Serves 6
SPINACH
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and very well drained
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE BASE
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1½ cups milk, warmed
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup half-and-half
5 large egg yolks
SOUFFLÉ AND TOPPING
7 large egg whites
Coarse salt
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
½ cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2 ounces)
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Generously butter six 8-ounce ramekins or one 6-cup jumbo muffin tin or silicone muffin mold.
To prepare the spinach, in a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the well-drained spinach and season with cayenne, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking, stirring, until the mixture is well combined and all the moisture has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.
To prepare the béchamel sauce, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour, and cook until foaming but not browned, about 1 minute. Whisk in the warmed milk. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once it is at a boil, continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
You will use two-thirds of this sauce as the base for the soufflés. The remaining one-third will be the coating sauce at the end. Transfer one-third of the sauce to a small saucepan. Add the half-and-half and stir to combine. Set aside.
Stir the spinach into the larger amount of sauce; taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the egg yolks one at a time, stirring between each addition. Set aside.
To make the soufflés, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on medium speed until foamy. Increase the speed to high and whip until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
To lighten the soufflé, add about one-fourth of the beaten egg whites to the spinach-sauce mixture and whisk until well mixed. Pour this mixture over the remaining whites and fold together until smooth.
Fill the prepared ramekins with the mixture. Place them on a baking sheet and bake until the soufflés are puffed and browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Leave the oven on.
Transfer the soufflés to a rack and cool slightly. Turn out each soufflé into a large gratin dish or casserole. If the soufflés stick, release them by running a butter knife or offset spatula around the rims. Set aside.
To finish the soufflés, bring the reserved cream sauce to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the mustard and ¼ cup of the Gruyère cheese. Stir to combine, then taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the soufflés to coat, then sprinkle each evenly with the remaining ¼ cup Gruyère. (The dish may be made to this point and held at room temperature for up to 1 hour or covered in the refrigerator for up 24 hours. However, it is important to bring the dish to room temperature before browning.)
Bake the sauce-covered soufflés in the gratin dish until browned and bubbling, 7 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Béchamel Sauce
Whether called béchamel (French), balsamella (Italian), or white sauce, this classic sauce is based on a thickener (a roux) made of butter and flour that is whisked together with milk. Simple seasonings include nutmeg, salt, and pepper, but the flavor is improved if the milk is first infused with aromatics like bay leaf and peppercorns. It is as simple as making tea: place the milk and aromatics in a pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and let rest for about 10 minutes; strain out and discard the aromatics.
Béchamel sauce is the workhorse of cuisine. You can change its consistency by varying the proportions of roux to milk. The more roux, the thicker the sauce, and vice versa. Thin sauces are used as bases for soups and other sauces. Add cheese, for example, and it’s Sauce Mornay. A medium béchamel sauce is used for coating and in vegetarian lasagna. Thick béchamel is the base for savory soufflés.
Serves 8
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more for the dish
½ pound bulk pork or turkey country sausage
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
2 baguettes, cubed
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1½ ounces)
6 large eggs
2½ cups whole milk
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Brush a large gratin dish with some of the oil.
To cook the sausage, in a large skillet, heat the remaining 1 table-spoon of oil over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook until it begins to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the onion and red and yellow bell peppers and saute until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds.
To assemble the strata, place half of the bread cubes in the prepared gratin dish and top with half of the sausage mixture. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the grated cheese over the sausage mixture and top with the remaining bread cubes and sausage.
Whisk together the eggs, milk, sage, and parsley in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the custard over the strata. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Let the chilled strata stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Bake the strata for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup cheese; continue baking until the strata is puffed and golden brown, an additional 20 to 25 minutes. (If the top of the strata starts to get too brown, cover it with aluminum foil.) Remove to a rack to cool slightly. Serve hot or warm.
Serves 4 to 6
1½ tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
4 to 6 slices cured ham, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
5 large eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar or Gruyère cheese (about 2½ ounces)
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the top rack about 6 inches from the broiler element. Preheat the broiler. In a large, ovenproof skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and ham and cook until the onion is soft and translucent, 3 minutes. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, half of the cheese, and the chives. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.
Pour the egg mixture into the skillet and cook for 3 minutes, occasionally lifting the cooked egg around the edge with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula to let the raw egg flow underneath. Decrease the heat to low and cook, covered, until the underside is golden, about 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat.
Sprinkle the remaining half of the cheese on the top of the frittata. Broil the frittata in the skillet until the cheese is melted and bubbling, about 1 minute, depending on the strength of your broiler. Let cool slightly. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.
Serves 8
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 loaf brioche or challah, sliced 1½ inches thick (about 1½ pounds)
8 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Pinch of salt
½ cup chopped pecans
Confectioners’ sugar, for accompaniment
Sorghum, cane, or maple syrup, for accompaniment
Combine the melted butter and brown sugar in a baking dish. Arrange the bread slices in the dish. Whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, and salt in a bowl. Pour over the bread, letting it soak in. Top with the pecans. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Let the chilled casserole stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Bake until browned and set, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly. Sift over confectioners’ sugar. Serve hot or warm with sorghum, cane, or maple syrup.
Serves 4 to 6
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
Juice of ½ lemon
3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 shallot, chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 baguette, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 (6-ounce) log fresh goat cheese, crumbled
2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped, or 1 cup of your favorite tomato, marinara, or pasta sauce
15 kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element and preheat the broiler. To make the compound butter, stir the butter, lemon juice, tarragon, garlic, and shallot together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Mix until thoroughly combined.
Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet. Spread the butter mixture on one side of each slice to coat. (Reserve the remaining butter in a sealable container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Use it to saute vegetables or make buttery herbed rice or pasta.) Broil until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the toasts and broil the other side. Remove the toasts from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool.
Scatter the goat cheese on the bottoms of individual shallow gratin dishes or one ovenproof gratin dish or casserole. Top with the tomatoes and olives, and season with salt and pepper. Broil until bubbling and hot, 3 to 5 minutes.
Serve with the reserved herb toasts.
Serves 4 to 6
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1 ounce), plus more for the soufflé dish
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole milk, warmed
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large egg yolks
¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2½ ounces)
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs (such as chervil, chives, or parsley)
6 large egg whites
Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Using 2 tablespoons of the butter, grease a 1-quart soufflé dish or four 8-ounce soufflé ramekins and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to coat. (If using the ramekins, place them on a baking sheet.)
To make the béchamel sauce, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour, and cook until foaming but not browned, about 1 minute. Whisk in the milk. Add the cayenne and nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper; bring to a boil over high heat. Once it is at a boil, continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes.
Whisk together the yolks and a bit more salt and pepper in a small bowl. Temper the yolks so they won’t curdle from the heat of the sauce: first, add a little of the hot sauce to the yolks and whisk to combine. Add the yolk mixture a little at a time to the béchamel sauce and whisk quickly to blend. Fold in the Gruyère, the remaining ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the herbs. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To beat the egg whites, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on medium speed until foamy. Increase the speed to high and whip until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add about one-fourth of the beaten egg whites to the sauce mixture and stir until well mixed. Pour this lightened mixture over the remaining whites and fold them together as gently as possible.
Fill the prepared dish with the mixture, smoothing the top with a metal spatula. Run your thumb around the inside edge of the rim, making a shallow channel around the batter.
Place the soufflé in the oven, reduce the heat to 375°F, and bake until puffed, golden, and just set in the center, about 25 minutes for one large soufflé or 12 to 15 minutes for individual soufflés. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.
