Hors d’oeuvres whet the appetite but do not satiate; they are just a “little something” to begin a meal or to nibble on between meals.
In my grandmother’s rural South, dainty bites and tea sandwiches would only appear at showers and weddings. This was mostly because there was no need to stimulate the appetite of hardworking farmers and field hands. But also, perhaps, it was that hors d’oeuvres just seemed to marry so naturally with a cocktail, that forbidden elixir of hell to small-town Protestants.
As I’m neither teetotaler nor field hand, I’m glad hors d’oeuvres have become part of the modern Southern table, where they can be as highbrow as a starter of Classic Crab Cakes or as down-home as boiled peanuts.
Some Southern hors d’oeuvres, unfortunately, partake of the “trashy” element of Southern cooking that relies on processed foods. I’m here to tell you that a bag of little smokies, a bottle of ketchup, and a jar of grape jelly combined in a slow cooker, served with a box of toothpicks on the side, is not an hors d’oeuvre. I won’t be sharing recipes for canned crescent rolls with fake crab or Vienna sausages and cubes of Velveeta speared with a pretzel stick. Nor will I advise you to put out a potato chip–crusted casserole to eat on small plates and call it an hors d’oeuvre.
Because they’re not everyday fare, hors d’oeuvres made for a party can require a bit of additional planning and thought. All of the recipes in this chapter have tips on making ahead to help you juggle preparation and serving. And here are a few tips that will help you plan.
Judge how much you’ll need. There’s a fine balance between generously feeding your guests and wasting food. Remember that the greater the variety, the more likely people are to try at least one of everything. Also, the size of serving utensils and plates is important: the larger the serving utensil, the more your guests will take (and likely not finish).
Consider the time of day. Is it a lady’s tea or an afternoon shower or an evening cocktail party? For a daytime event, I suggest five or six food choices, allowing for two pieces of each per guest. At night, their appetites are telling your guests that it is dinnertime, so you need to plan accordingly. As a rule of thumb, I serve a minimum of eight different hors d’oeuvres for an evening event, planning that guests will consume four or five pieces of each. If hors d’oeuvres are served preceding a sit-down dinner, prepare five or six different choices, counting on one or two of each per guest.
Decide the type of service. A stationary buffet is certainly easier for the host, but passing the nibbles allows guests to move about and socialize. A combination of both is an excellent solution. Use six-inch plates for a buffet, even a substantial one. Standing up, it is impossible to balance both a drink and a plate that’s any larger.
Create a balanced menu. Choose some simple-to-prepare dishes, such as dips, and some that need only be set out on a platter, such as cheese boards and seasoned olives. Some of my favorite hors d’oeuvres require no recipe: I arrange a country ham on a board and slice it paper thin, heap spiced nuts in a bowl, and serve halved French Breakfast radishes to spread with sexy cultured butter and sprinkle with fleur de sel. A bountiful array of lightly steamed vegetable crudités makes an attractive, tasty, and fairly inexpensive “filler” at an hors d’oeuvres buffet. Steaming or blanching the vegetables, then shocking them (plunging them in ice water to stop the cooking and set color) improves their taste and brightens their appearance.
Makes 12
12 thick asparagus, ends trimmed
12 very thin slices prosciutto or country ham (about 8 ounces), halved
¼ cup canola oil, for frying, plus more if needed
1 cup all-purpose flour, for dredging
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
Prepare an ice-water bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water. Line 2 large plates with paper towels.
To cook the asparagus, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and boil just until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain well in a colander and transfer to the ice bath to cool. Once cooled, place them on one of the towel-lined plates to drain and pat dry with additional paper towels.
To prepare the asparagus, wrap 1 piece of ham around each spear. Set aside on a plate. Heat the oil in a shallow skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
To dredge the spears, place the flour in a shallow bowl and season with salt and pepper. In a second shallow bowl, whisk the eggs. Roll the ham-wrapped asparagus in the flour, dip in the eggs, and transfer to the hot oil.
To cook the spears, fry them, in batches, turning to cook on all sides, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the second towel-lined plate to drain. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The asparagus spears can be wrapped with ham and stored in an airtight container at least 24 hours ahead. You can also prepare them completely ahead and hold them at room temperature for up to 1 hour. When ready to serve, re-crisp them in a 450°F oven for about 5 minutes.
Makes 4 cups
4 cups pecan halves
2 teaspoons coarse salt or sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
In a large, dry skillet, toast the pecans over medium heat until golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine the salt, pepper, thyme leaves, and olive oil.
Add the warm toasted pecans to the thyme-oil mixture. Stir well to combine and evenly coat the pecans. The fragrance is amazing! Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
MAKING AHEAD: Once the seasoned nuts have cooled, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Bring them to room temperature before serving.
Makes 2 cups
4 cups canola oil
2 cups pecan halves
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Pinch of cayenne pepper, or to taste
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Line a plate with paper towels and set near the cooktop. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over medium heat until the oil reaches 350°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Carefully add the pecans and cook until the color deepens, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large bowl. While the nuts are still hot, add the butter and cayenne and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the prepared plate to drain.
MAKING AHEAD: Once the nuts have cooled, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Makes about 6 dozen
⅔ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 2 ounces)
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon Hungarian paprika
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1 large egg
2 tablespoons water
1 sheet frozen puff pastry (from one 14-ounce package), thawed according to package instructions, and unfolded
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Set aside two ungreased rimmed baking sheets.
In a small bowl, combine the cheese, cayenne, paprika, and salt. Set aside. In a second small bowl, whisk together the egg and water. Set aside.
On a lightly floured surface, roll out the thawed pastry sheet ⅛ inch thick, to form a rectangle that is about 10 by 16 inches. Lightly brush the dough with the egg wash.
To shape the straws, halve the pastry crosswise into two 5 by 8-inch rectangles. Sprinkle the cheese mixture over one rectangle and top with the other rectangle, egg-wash side down, pressing firmly to force out any air pockets. Roll out the layered pastry a little further to make the layers adhere (the rectangle should be about 12 by 9 inches). Brush the top of the pastry with additional egg wash and transfer to a baking sheet. Chill until firm, about 10 minutes in the freezer or 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Remove from the freezer and transfer to a floured work surface. With a large sharp knife, pastry wheel, or pizza cutter, cut the pastry lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide sticks. Twist the ends of each strip in opposite directions to create a long twirl.
To bake the straws, arrange them about 1½ inches apart on the baking sheets, pressing down the ends to fix the straws to the rimmed edge of the sheet pan. Bake the cheese straws, in batches, in the middle of the oven until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. (While baking in batches, keep the raw dough in the refrigerator.) Transfer the baking sheet to a rack to cool slightly, then transfer the cheese straws to a rack to cool completely.
MAKING AHEAD: Once they have cooled completely, store the cheese straws in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Re-crisp them in a 425°F oven just until heated through, about 5 minutes.
Makes 2 dozen
12 large eggs
⅓ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon, chives, or chervil, plus leaves for garnish
To hard-cook the eggs, place the eggs in a saucepan and add water to cover them by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat (you will see bubbles around the sides of the pot). Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 12 minutes. Drain the eggs and rinse them under cold running water. Set aside to cool completely.
To peel the eggs, once the eggs have cooked and cooled, remove the shells by tapping each egg gently on the counter or sink all over to crackle it. Roll an egg between your hands to loosen the shell. Peel, starting at the large end, while holding the egg under running cold water; this facilitates peeling and also removes any stray shell fragments.
To prepare the filling, halve the peeled eggs lengthwise. Carefully remove the yolks. Set the whites aside. Pass the yolks through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl or place them in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Blend the yolks, mayonnaise, butter, mustard, and cayenne, and mix until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Add the finely chopped tarragon.
Place the mixture in a piping bag fitted with a large star tip, or use a medium sealable plastic bag with one of the corner tips snipped off.
To assemble the eggs, when ready to serve, pipe the yolk mixture into the whites. Garnish with additional herbs and serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: Unpeeled hard-cooked eggs can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. Or prepare the eggs, but don’t assemble, up to 8 hours in advance of serving; refrigerate the whites covered with a damp towel in an airtight plastic container. Store the egg-yolk mixture in the piping bag with the tip also covered in a damp paper towel. Knead the yolk mixture slightly to soften before filling the yolks. The eggs may also be assembled and stored covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours. Any longer and the yolk mixture starts to form a crust.
Makes about 3 cups
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the dish
4 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
4 ounces fresh goat cheese, at room temperature
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as flat-leaf parsley, chives, chervil, or tarragon)
1 pound jumbo lump or lump crabmeat, picked over for cartilage
½ cup fresh or panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element. Preheat the broiler. Butter a medium gratin dish.
To make the dip, combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, mayonnaise, mustard, and cayenne pepper in a double boiler over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine and herbs and stir until smooth. Using a large spatula, fold in the crabmeat, taking care not to break the lumps. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and top with the breadcrumbs. Broil until golden brown, about 5 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler. Serve warm.
MAKING AHEAD: Instead of a double boiler, combine the ingredients in the gratin dish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook. When ready to cook, remove from the refrigerator and let warm to room temperature. Top with breadcrumbs and bake at 350°F until heated through, bubbling, and golden brown, about 25 minutes.
VARIATION: You can skip the gratin dish, breadcrumbs, and broiling altogether. Simply transfer the hot mixture from the double boiler into a chafing dish, fondue pot, or the setup described in Caterer’s Trick, below, and serve with water crackers or toasted slices of baguette.
Makes 3 dozen
1 cup pecan halves
10 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening, preferably Crisco, at room temperature
8 ounces raw mild pork sausage
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment paper.
Place the pecans in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse until chopped, but not too finely. Remove to a bowl and set aside. Replace the blade with the grating disc and grate the cheese. Remove to a second bowl and set aside.
Switch back to the metal blade. To make the sausage mixture, in the same bowl of the food processor (no need to clean it), combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and cayenne pepper. Pulse to combine. Add the shortening and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the grated cheese and the sausage and pulse until well combined. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add the reserved pecans and, using your hands, press the dough together until well combined. (The dough will be very crumbly.)
To form the balls, using a small ice cream scoop and your hands, shape the mixture into 1-inch balls and place about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool. Serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The balls can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. To serve, let the balls come to room temperature. Or to serve warm, reheat in a 350°F oven until heated through, 5 to 7 minutes.
Makes about 6 dozen
1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper, or to taste
½ pound sharp Cheddar cheese, at room temperature, freshly grated
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Position the oven racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter 2 baking sheets.
To make the dough, in a small bowl, combine the flour, salt, and cayenne. Set aside. In a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, cream the cheese and butter on medium speed until smooth and well combined. Gradually add the flour mixture. Mix on low speed until smooth. (The dough can also be made in the bowl of a large food processor: grate the cheese with the grating blade, then transfer the cheese to a bowl and insert the metal blade. Pulse the dry ingredients to combine, then add the butter and cheese. Process until smooth.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for about 15 minutes.
To shape the dough, work it in your hands; it should be soft and pliable (like Play-Doh). Shape the dough into a cylinder and pack it into a cookie press fitted with the serrated ribbon disk.
Holding the cookie press at an angle to one of the prepared baking sheets, press the trigger twice, dragging the press away to make a long straw the length of the baking sheet. Repeat until you’ve covered the sheet, spacing the ribbons of dough 1 inch apart. Using a butter knife or offset spatula, cut each ribbon into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Repeat with the remaining dough and the other baking sheet. (If your cookie press extrudes the dough in fits and spurts, simply pick up the dough and reuse.)
Bake the cheese straws, rotating the baking sheets once, until lightly browned on the edges, about 20 minutes. Remove the baking sheets to a rack to cool slightly. Using an offset or slotted spatula, remove the individual cheese straws to cool completely.
MAKING AHEAD: Store the cheese straws at room temperature in an airtight container between sheets of waxed paper. They will keep for 2 to 3 weeks.
Makes 20 medium puffs
¾ cup water
⅓ cup unsalted butter
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
¾ cup all-purpose flour
5 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2½ ounces)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment paper.
To make the dough, in a medium saucepan, bring the water, butter, and ½ teaspoon of the salt to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, add the flour all at once, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the pan to form a ball, 30 to 60 seconds. (This mixture is called the panade.) Beat the mixture over low heat for an additional 30 to 60 seconds to dry the mixture.
To make the egg wash, whisk 1 of the eggs in a small bowl with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt until well mixed; set aside. With a wooden spoon, beat the remaining 4 eggs into the dough, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. (It will come together, I promise.) Beat until the dough is shiny and slides from the spoon. Add the grated cheese.
If using parchment paper to line the baking sheet, “glue” down the paper at this point with a few dabs of the dough.
To form the gougères, use either a tablespoon for a rustic look, or for a more finished appearance, a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip. Spoon or pipe 12 mounds of dough about 2 inches in diameter onto the baking sheet, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Brush the puffs with the reserved egg wash.
Bake until puffed and golden, 25 to 30 minutes. To test for doneness, remove one puff from the baking sheet and let it cool for 45 to 60 seconds. If it remains crisp and doesn’t deflate, it is done. If not, return it to the oven and continue baking 5 to 10 minutes more. Remove to a rack to cool. Let the puffs cool slightly on the sheet, then transfer to a cooling rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
MAKING AHEAD: These are brilliantly resilient and freeze beautifully. Once cooled, store them in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 4 weeks. Warm and re-crisp in a 350°F oven, 5 to 7 minutes.
VARIATION: To make 30 to 35 medium puffs, adjust the ingredient amounts as follows: 1¼ cups flour, 1 cup water, ¾ teaspoon salt, 6½ tablespoons butter, 5 eggs, and 1 cup cheese.
Makes about 32 nibbles, or 4 cups filling
1½ pounds grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (about 4 cups)
½ onion, preferably Vidalia, grated
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 (4-ounce) jar pimentos, drained and finely chopped
Dash of hot sauce
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
32 bite-size cherry tomatoes
32 small fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
To make the pimento cheese, combine the cheese, onion, and mayonnaise in a bowl. Stir until well combined. Add the pimentos and hot sauce. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, using a serrated knife, slice off the top third of each cherry tomato. Using your index finger or a very small spoon, remove and discard the seeds and inside flesh of the tomatoes.
To fill the tomatoes, place the pimento cheese mixture in a piping bag fitted with a large round tip or use a medium sealable plastic bag with one of the corner tips snipped off. Fill each tomato with the mixture, allowing a little to rise above the tops. Garnish each tomato with a parsley leaf. Serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The prepared cheese filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. The cherry tomatoes can be prepared up to 24 hours before serving: prep the tomatoes and store them, cut side down, on a baking sheet lined with damp paper towels. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to fill.
VARIATION: For real comfort food, try warm pimento-cheese toasts. Place slices of sourdough bread on a baking sheet and brown on one side under the broiler. Turn over and thickly spread with pimento cheese. Return to the broiler and toast until the cheese is melted and bubbly, 5 to 7 minutes. Curl up on the sofa and enjoy.
Makes about 2 cups confit
1 baguette, sliced diagonally ¼ inch thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, halved, for the toasts
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 onions, preferably Vidalia, chopped (about 1½ pounds)
½ teaspoon firmly packed dark brown sugar
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup dry red wine
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus small sprigs for garnish
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element and preheat the broiler. To make the toasts, arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet and brush on one side with some of the olive oil. Broil until brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the toasts and broil the other side. Remove the toasts from the oven and while warm, rub one side of each toast with the cut surfaces of the garlic clove. Transfer to a rack to cool.
To make the confit, heat the butter and remaining olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sugar, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, 15 to 20 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced and the onions are a deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes more. Add the thyme; taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To serve, place the reserved toasts on a large serving platter and top each piece with a spoonful of confit. Garnish each with a sprig of thyme.
MAKING AHEAD: The toasts can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored at room temperature in an airtight container. The confit can also be made ahead and will actually improve as the flavors marry. Refrigerate the confit in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
Serves 4 to 6
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 pound mixed mushrooms (such as cremini, chanterelle, morel, shiitake, and white button), sliced
1 large shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and tarragon)
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon water
1 sheet frozen puff pastry (from one 14-ounce package), thawed according to package instructions, and unfolded
½ cup fresh goat cheese or cream cheese (about 3 ounces), at room temperature
To prepare the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms and saute until soft and all the liquid in the pan has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the shallot and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes more. Add the herbs and nutmeg. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.
Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment paper. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and the water to make a wash; set aside.
To prepare the pastry, on a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to a 12 by 15-inch rectangle. From it, cut one 12 by 5-inch rectangle, two 11 by ½-inch strips, and two 5 by ½-inch strips. Place the rectangle on the prepared baking sheet and prick all over with a fork. Brush all the pastry strips with the egg wash.
To form the pastry shell, place the short pastry strips, egg-wash side down, along the edges of the short sides of the pastry; place the long strips, egg-wash side down, along the edges of the long sides of the pastry. (Don’t worry about making all of this very exact: the goal is to create a rim to contain the mushrooms. For a more rustic look, leave the 12 by 15-inch rectangle intact, and simply create a rim by folding over all 4 edges, and seal with egg wash.) Chill until firm, about 10 minutes in the freezer or 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the tart shell until golden, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and spread the cheese evenly over bottom of the hot shell. Top with the reserved sauteed mushrooms. Return to the oven and continue to bake until heated through, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly. Cut into strips and serve.
MAKING AHEAD: The mushrooms can be prepared completely in advance and reheated. The tart shell can also be prepared to the point of chilling the raw dough. So, all you would need to do before serving is prebake the shell, fill, and finish baking.
Makes about 30 hors d’oeuvres
12 cups water
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 lemon, halved
½ onion, preferably Vidalia, peeled
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1 pound unshelled large shrimp (21/25 count)
4 to 6 heads Belgian endive
3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
Freshly ground black pepper
30 fresh tarragon leaves, for garnish
To poach the shrimp, combine the water, carrot, celery, lemon, onion, bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon of the salt in a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes to make a flavorful court-bouillon.
Have ready a frozen freezer pack sealed in a heavy-duty plastic bag or a large heavy-duty sealable plastic bag filled with ice cubes. Make an ice bath to cool the shrimp: transfer several cups (or more, depending on the quantity of shrimp) of the broth to a large heatproof bowl. Place the ice pack in the bowl of broth; move the pack around until the broth is well chilled (drain and add more ice to the bag as needed). Return the heat to high and bring the remaining mixture to a rolling boil. Add the shrimp and boil until the shells are pink and the meat is white, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not overcook.
Drain the shrimp in a colander or remove with a slotted spoon, then immediately transfer to the chilled liquid to stop the cooking process. Set aside.
To prepare the endive, cut off and discard the root ends. Pull the heads apart one leaf at a time. Arrange the leaves in concentric circles like a flower on a large platter.
To prepare the salad, peel, devein, and coarsely chop the shrimp. Place in a bowl with the chopped tarragon and mayonnaise; stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To assemble, place 1 generous teaspoon of shrimp salad near the trimmed bottom edge of each endive leaf. Garnish each with a tarragon leaf. Serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The shrimp salad can be prepared completely ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The leaves can be prepared and wrapped in damp paper towels in a sealable plastic bag overnight. Finally, up to 2 hours ahead, the filled endive leaves can be arranged on the platter, covered with a damp paper towel, and refrigerated. Serve chilled.
Serves 4 to 6
12 cups water
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 lemon, halved
½ onion, preferably Vidalia, peeled
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1½ pounds unshelled large shrimp (21/25 count)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 baguette, sliced ¼ inch thick, for accompaniment
To poach the shrimp, in a large pot, combine the water, carrot, celery, lemon, onion, bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes to make a flavorful court-bouillon. Return the heat to high and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Add the shrimp and boil until the shells are pink and the meat is white, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not overcook.
Drain the shrimp in a colander. As soon as the shrimp are just cool enough to touch, peel and devein them.
To dress the shrimp, while they are still warm, place them in a large bowl with the olive oil and lemon juice. Toss to coat, then season with salt and pepper. Marinate the shrimp at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before serving. Add the chopped parsley and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
Serve the shrimp on baguette slices, drizzled with some of the juices.
MAKING AHEAD: The shrimp can be prepared completely ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. (The most important part is bathing them in the lemon mixture while they are still warm.) Bring to room temperature before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup Coca-Cola Classic
Juice of 2 limes
1½ cups firmly packed light brown sugar
3 jalapeño chiles, finely chopped, plus 2 jalapeño chiles, sliced, for garnish
3 pounds chicken wings (12 to 14 whole wings)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element. Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and place an ovenproof rack on the lined baking sheet.
To make the glaze, in a small saucepan, bring the soda, lime juice, brown sugar, and the chopped jalapeño chiles to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer until syrupy, about 30 minutes; keep warm over low heat.
To prepare the chicken wings, cut off the wing tips (reserve the tips to make stock), and halve the wings at the joint. Place the wing pieces in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Pour about half the glaze over the wings and toss to coat. Keep the remaining sauce warm over low heat.
To broil the wings, place the glazed wings on the rack set on the baking sheet. Broil for 10 minutes per side, brushing twice on each side with the reserved glaze.
Transfer to a warm platter, garnish with the sliced jalapeño chiles, and serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The glaze can be made ahead, cooled, and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before cooking the wings. The wings can be completely prepared ahead and reheated in a 350°F oven until warmed through, about 10 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6
3 large cloves garlic
2 cups pitted kalamata or other brine-cured black olives
4 anchovy fillets, drained
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, plus thyme sprigs for garnish
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 baguette, sliced diagonally ¼ inch thick
2 to 4 ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
To prepare the tapenade, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine 2 of the garlic cloves, the olives, anchovies, capers, thyme, and rosemary. Process until almost smooth. With the machine running, gradually add ¼ cup of the olive oil. Process the mixture until smooth. Taste and adjust for seasoning with freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element and preheat the broiler. To make the toasts, arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet and brush one side with the 2 tablespoons olive oil. Broil until brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and broil the other side. Halve the remaining clove of garlic. Remove the toast from the oven and while warm, rub one side of each toast with the cut surface of the garlic. Transfer to a rack to cool.
Place the chopped tomatoes in a bowl and season with salt and pepper.
To assemble, spread the toasts with a spoonful or so of tapenade. Press a spoonful of the seasoned chopped tomatoes into the tapenade to cover. Drizzle with a little of the remaining olive oil, and garnish with a small sprig of thyme.
MAKING AHEAD: The tapenade can be prepared ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. The toasts can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored at room temperature in an airtight container.
Sauteed Greens Bruschetta with Fresh Mozzarella
Serves 4 to 6
1 baguette, sliced diagonally ¼ inch thick
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, halved, for the toasts, plus 2 more cloves garlic, very finely chopped
½ pound dandelion greens, fresh spinach, or arugula, stemmed
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup shredded fresh mozzarella cheese
Position an oven rack 4 inches below the broiler element and preheat the broiler. To make the toasts, arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet and brush on one side with some of the olive oil. Broil until brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the toasts and broil the other side. Remove the toasts from the oven and while warm, rub one side of each toast with the cut surfaces of the halved garlic cloves. Transfer to a rack to cool.
To prepare the greens, in a large, heavy-bottomed saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and saute, stirring, until wilted and tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour off any excess liquid. Add the mozzarella and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To assemble, place about 1 tablespoon of the greens mixture on the oiled side of each toast. Serve immediately.
MAKING AHEAD: The toasts can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored at room temperature in an airtight container.
