Southern food usually brings to mind fried chicken, grits, greens, and biscuits. But with the Gulf of Mexico to the south and the Atlantic Ocean to the east, there is also a great deal of fish and shellfish in Southern cooking. Southerners have always relied on fish, shellfish, and even frogs, turtle meat, and alligator from the sea and local lakes, ponds, and rivers to augment their diet.
One of my first memories is of falling into the pond behind our family home when I was about three years old. I remember the terror I felt in the brown murky water and the agitation of the adults who pulled me out. My grandmother’s main concern was not the possibility of my drowning, but that snakes might be at the water’s edge. The most common admonition heard from her throughout my young life was, “Don’t go in the bushes, you might get on a snake!” (Since Georgia is home to all the poisonous snakes found in North America, this is not nearly as paranoid as it may sound.)
There’s something extraordinarily satisfying about going fishing and then cooking your fresh catch for dinner (though there can be a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore with an empty bucket wasting time and looking stupid). Dede used to have a cement-block “worm bed” for bait in the shade near the shed. He’d empty vegetable peelings, onion skins, and the like into it every night for the worms to eat and compost. When we were little, we loved to help him look for bait. He’d loosen the soil with his pitchfork and my sister, Jona, and I would quickly gather up the squirming worms and put them in an old coffee can. The three of us would walk down the hill to the pond and set up our poles on the dam. He taught us how to bait a hook and the proper way to tie the tackle. Sometimes he would catch a small frog to use as a lure for bass and we would run away squealing. Inevitably, we would get our lines hung up in a tree, or on each other, and he would patiently untangle them. Those are some of my sweetest memories.
We still keep a small boat at the very same pond. Jona is not as fond of fishing as she was when she was a child, but sometimes Mama and I will talk her into it and we’ll all walk down the hill just for an hour or so after supper. The worm bed is long gone and I guess we’re too lazy to dig for bait, so we buy it at a store up the road. The only sounds are the birds chirping in the trees, often a whippoorwill calling, and the wind whistling in the tall pines. Waterbugs skate across the water, dragonflies buzz in the tall reeds, and the minnows dart about in the shallows. If we’re lucky, a heron lands at the water’s edge, hoping for a catch of the day. When the sun hits the water at dusk, the pond turns into a shimmering, sparkling mirror and there’s nothing remotely stupid about how that makes me feel. It’s as wonderful and magical as when I was a child.
If we’re lucky enough to catch a few fish, we take them back up to the makeshift sink in the backyard. Trouble is, when the fishing is good, we stay too long at the pond and get back after dark. Mama goes in to the house and gets the flashlight. I pull over the garden hose and clean and scale the fish. (Jona conveniently makes herself scarce.) We fry them in a light dusting of cornmeal in a cast-iron skillet. Jona and I snack on the crispy tails. It’s the perfect end to a perfect evening.
I’ve had the good fortune of enjoying freshly caught fish all over the world. One of my more memorable experiences occurred in Sicily, when filming a segment for Epicurious television. Our crew pulled into the harbor around 5:30 A.M., just as the fishing boats were coming in. It was barely light. I soon realized there were three women (us) and about five hundred Sicilian fishermen on the docks. We were greeted with wolf whistles and big grins. One older man, with gnarled hands, presented me with a brilliant yellow starfish, as large as a dinner plate. But the tall, dark stranger who truly won my heart gave me a sandwich made of hearty semolina bread, marinated anchovies, and olive oil—a Sicilian fisherman’s breakfast. The translator explained that the boats go out at night hung with great lanterns to simulate moonlight and draw the fish into the nets. The men take a few fish from the first catch and remove the bones. Then they place the fillets in a bowl and drizzle over freshly squeezed lemon juice and olive oil, and heartily season the mix with coarse sea salt and pepper. The fish cures during the night much like ceviche or escabèche, and when they return in the morning with their catch, breakfast is ready. Dede would have likely referred to it as bait.
Fish and shellfish are part of a healthy, well-rounded diet. They are high in protein and low in saturated fats, and contain omega-3 fatty acids that are good for your heart. However, we often don’t realize we are making ecological and economic as well as health choices every time we buy seafood (or any other food, for that matter). Many popular fish and shellfish species are overfished so badly that the future of the fishery or even of the species is in danger. Programs such as the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch inform people about which seafood to buy and why based on whether species are “abundant, well-managed, and caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways.”
And nearly all fish and shellfish contain traces of methylmercury and other toxic chemicals. They take in the chemicals as they feed; in general, smaller and younger fish have less mercury than larger, older ones. Some species of farmed fish and shellfish may also be more contaminated or ecologically unsound than wild-caught fish; for example, I recommend buying wild American shrimp rather than pond-raised imports for just this reason. The group Oceans Alive, for one, also keeps a list of fish that are more likely or less likely to be highly contaminated with methylmercury and PCBs. The species on these consumer advisory lists change as conditions change.
If the fish in your recipe is unavailable or you want to make a different choice, simply mix and match within the three types of delicate, medium, and firm fish. These categories reflect how fish respond to cooking methods and which substitutions work. Examples of delicate fish include sole, flounder, turbot, plaice, and fluke. Treat delicate fish carefully when you cook them. These fish are traditionally sold as fillets, and they are best prepared by poaching, broiling, pan-frying, or baking. Medium fish include Arctic char, trout, catfish, salmon, mahi-mahi, grouper, snapper, walleye, tilapia, pike, and tilefish. These fish have more resistance than delicate fish, and are firmer when cooked. They are incredibly versatile and best prepared by baking, broiling, pan-frying, or grilling. Examples of firm fish include pompano, amberjack, tuna, shark, and swordfish. These fish have a meaty texture. They are best prepared with high-heat cooking methods such as grilling, pan-frying, or sauteing.
How much to buy? Here are some rules of thumb: for whole fish, count on 12 ounces per person; for dressed or cleaned fish, count on 4 to 6 ounces per person; for fillets or steaks, count on 5 ounces per person.
How do you know it’s fresh? Ask when the fish arrived at the store. Very often fresh fish come into markets on Wednesday and Friday. Sniff the fish if possible. There should be no strong odor. Fresh fish smells sweet and clean. Look for a moist surface and firm flesh. Splits or cracks in fillets are signs of drying. The fish should be moist, but there is a difference between moist and slimy. Press the fish gently. The indentation should spring back. If it doesn’t, that means the flesh is starting to break down; don’t buy it. It’s easiest to check for freshness when buying a whole fish: look for ones with clear eyes, not clouded or sunken eyes. It should have reddish or slightly reddish brown gills. Brown gills indicate the fish is old.
Keep fish as fresh as possible by burying it in ice: cover the bottom of a shallow container with crushed ice or ice cubes. Place the fish on the bed of ice and cover with more ice. Cook within a day of purchase.
Serves 4 to 6
2 (3-ounce) bags Zatarain’s Dry Crawfish, Crab, and Shrimp Boil (see Sources)
2 gallons water
¾ cup coarse salt
12 fingerling potatoes (about ¾ pound total)
4 onions, preferably Vidalia, halved
4 lemons, halved
4 whole heads garlic
4 ears fresh sweet corn, shucked and silks removed, halved crosswise
2 pounds kielbasa sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces
6 pounds live crawfish (see Sources)
Fill a large stockpot with the seafood boil, the water, and the salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, decrease the heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes.
Add the potatoes, onions, lemons, and garlic. Cover, increase the heat to medium-high, and return to a boil; cook an additional 10 minutes. Add the corn, sausage, and crawfish. Cover and return to a boil; cook until the crawfish are bright red and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Fried Catfish Fingers with Country Rémoulade
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup whole-grain Dijon mustard
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon hot sauce
1 pound catfish fillets, cut into strips
½ cup white or yellow cornmeal
½ cup all-purpose flour
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups peanut oil, for frying
Country Rémoulade, for accompaniment
Line a plate with paper towels and set by the cooktop.
In a large bowl, stir together the mustard, egg white, and hot sauce. Add the fish and toss to coat well. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
In a shallow dish, combine the cornmeal and flour and season with salt and pepper. Pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed saucepan, deep fryer, or Dutch oven, filling it no more than one-third full. Heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F.
Remove the fish from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish in the cornmeal mixture to coat both sides and shake off the excess. Carefully add the fish to the oil, a few pieces at a time. Cook until golden brown and crispy, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to the prepared plate. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with the rémoulade.
Serves 4 to 6
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
5 green onions, green part only, chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
2 cups fish or shrimp stock or water
2 pounds crawfish tails, cooked
Hot sauce, for seasoning
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
$20,000 Rice Pilaf, for accompaniment
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, stirring slowly and constantly, and cook to a medium-brown roux, about 30 minutes.
Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until the vegetables are wilted and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley and green onion tops and stir to combine. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the fish stock and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Decrease the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced, about 20 minutes. Add the crawfish and stir to combine. Cook until heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with hot sauce. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with rice pilaf.
Serves 4 to 6
1½ pounds large shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups water, plus more if needed
Pinch of cayenne pepper
4 green onions, white and green parts, chopped, for garnish
$20,000 Rice Pilaf, for accompaniment
Place the shrimp in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to marinate while you prepare the vegetables.
In a heavy-bottomed skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, an additional 5 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, sugar, water, and cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Simmer until the oil rises to the surface, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes. (Use more water if the sauce gets too thick.) Add the shrimp and cook until pink, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with the green onions. Serve with rice pilaf.
Serves 6 to 8
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
4 cups water or shrimp stock (see below)
2 (6-ounce) cans tomato paste
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds large shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined
1 pound jumbo lump or lump crabmeat, picked over for cartilage
Hot sauce, for seasoning
¼ teaspoon filé powder (optional)
Double recipe $20,000 Rice Pilaf, for accompaniment
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, stirring slowly and constantly, and cook to a medium-brown roux, about 30 minutes.
Add the onion and bell pepper and stir to combine. Cook until the vegetables have wilted and are lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the water and tomato paste and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until flavorful and thickened, 1½ to 2 hours.
Add the shrimp and crabmeat and stir to combine. Continue cooking over very low heat until the shrimp are cooked through, an additional 10 minutes. Season with hot sauce and stir in the filé powder, if using. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with rice pilaf.
Serves 4 to 6
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more for the baking dish
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, finely chopped
½ stalk celery, very finely chopped
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 cup fresh or panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound jumbo lump or lump crabmeat, picked over for cartilage
4 to 6 (5-ounce) flounder, sole, or turbot fillets
4 to 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush a large baking dish with oil.
Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook until clear and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Remove from the heat and transfer the mixture to a large bowl to cool slightly. Add the breadcrumbs, eggs, parsley, paprika, and cayenne. Season with salt and pepper. Using a large spatula, fold in the crabmeat, taking care not to break the lumps.
Season both sides of the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Place the fillets in the prepared baking dish and top each with an equal amount of crabmeat mixture, patting to a uniform thickness. Top each fillet with a piece of butter. Bake until the fish are cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
¾ cup fresh or panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
¾ cup white or yellow cornmeal
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 to 6 (6-ounce) grouper fillets (about ¾ inch thick)
6 tablespoons canola oil
Lemon wedges, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 500°F. Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven.
Combine the breadcrumbs, cornmeal, cayenne, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and ¼ teaspoon of pepper in a large sealable plastic bag, and shake to mix. Place the beaten eggs in a shallow dish.
Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Working with one fillet at a time, place the fish in the bag and shake to coat well with crumbs. Dip the fish into the eggs, then shake in the crumbs again to coat. Transfer the fish to a plate.
In a large, heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron), heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over high heat until hot, but not smoking. Fry the fillets until the undersides are golden brown, about 1 minute. Turn, add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, and cook 1 minute more. Put the skillet in the upper third of the oven and bake until the fish are just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve immediately with lemon wedges.
Serves 4 to 6
⅓ cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons hot sauce
Juice of ½ lemon
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 cups peanut oil, for frying
1 large egg
¼ cup milk
1½ cups white or yellow cornmeal
2 pints shucked oysters, drained (about 60 small oysters)
1 baguette, halved horizontally
2 tablespoons Creole mustard
1 head romaine lettuce, shredded
1 large, ripe tomato, cored and sliced
Line a plate with paper towels and set by the cooktop.
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, hot sauce, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat until it reaches 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer.
Meanwhile, combine the egg, milk, and 1 teaspoon of salt in a bowl. Combine the cornmeal, 1½ teaspoons of salt, and pepper to taste in a second bowl.
Working in batches, and being sure to return the oil to 375°F for each batch, add the oysters to the egg mixture, remove with a slotted spoon, letting any excess drip off, and transfer to the cornmeal mixture, tossing to coat well. Carefully transfer the oysters to the oil and fry, turning occasionally, until golden and just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to the prepared plate to drain. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, spread the cut sides of the baguette with the seasoned mayonnaise and Creole mustard. Arrange the fried oysters, lettuce, and tomato on the bottom half of the bread and cover with the top half. Using a serrated knife, slice the sandwich into 4 to 6 portions and serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for the dish
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 green onions, white and green parts, chopped
½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
½ pound white button mushrooms, thinly sliced
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pints shucked oysters, drained (about 60 small oysters)
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup milk, warmed
¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1 ounce)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika
Pinch of cayenne pepper
½ cup fresh or panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
Place the oven rack 6 inches below the broiler and preheat the broiler. Brush a gratin dish with butter.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the green onions, bell pepper, and mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Saute until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the oysters and stir to combine. Decrease the heat to low and cook until the oysters are firm, an additional 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
In a medium saucepan, melt the 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook until foamy, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the cheese and stir to combine.
Pour the cheese sauce over the oyster mixture and stir to combine. Add the parsley, paprika, and cayenne. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
Pour the mixture into the prepared gratin dish and top with the breadcrumbs. Broil until browned and bubbling, about 10 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6
3 cups water
3 cups milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups coarse-ground grits
2 tablespoons canola oil, plus more if needed
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ cup dry white wine
4 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with juice
Pinch of cayenne pepper
¼ cup loosely packed mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, oregano, and thyme), coarsely chopped
24 large shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined
¼ cup heavy cream (optional)
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus shaved cheese, for garnish
To prepare the grits, in a saucepan, over medium-high heat, bring the water, milk, butter, and 1 teaspoon of the salt to a gentle boil. Whisk in the grits. Decrease the heat to low and simmer, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is smooth and thick and falls easily from the spoon, 30 to 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the tomatoes. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until the onion is soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the white wine, and cook until it evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the bay leaves, then stir in the tomatoes and reserved juice. Season with cayenne pepper. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the mixture is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. When the tomatoes are ready, remove the skillet from the heat, and stir in the chopped herbs. Set aside and keep warm.
To prepare the shrimp, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a second skillet over medium-high heat to sizzling. Add the shrimp; season with salt and pepper, and saute to sear on both sides until firm and pink, about 2 minutes per side.
When the grits are thickened, stir in the heavy cream and cheese.
To serve, put a heaping spoonful of grits onto individual serving plates. Top with an equal amount of the tomatoes, and top with equal amounts of the shrimp. Garnish with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Serves 2 to 4
½ cup all-purpose flour
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 (12-ounce) trout, butterflied (have your fishmonger do this)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Juice of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons salted capers, rinsed
Place the flour in a shallow dish. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the black pepper; stir with a fork to combine. Lightly season the trout with salt and pepper. (If you prefer not to have your dinner looking at you while you eat it, snip off the fish heads with a pair of kitchen shears.) Dredge both sides of the trout in flour, shaking gently to remove the excess.
Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the trout to the skillet, skin side up. Cook until pale golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and continue cooking until the fish is firm, an additional 3 to 4 minutes.
Remove the trout to a warm serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.
Remove the skillet from the heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, the lemon juice, and capers. Return to the heat if necessary to brown the butter, stirring with a wooden spoon to release the brown bits in the bottom of the skillet, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the pan sauce over the trout and serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the pan
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus thyme sprigs for garnish
2 small zucchini, chopped
2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
20 kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted and halved
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 (6-ounce) halibut fillets, skinned, or 1 large (24-ounce) fillet, skinned
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a shallow, ovenproof casserole with olive oil.
To make the sauce, heat the 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and chopped thyme and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the zucchini and tomatoes and sauté until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the olives and vinegar. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
To cook the fish, place the halibut in the prepared casserole and turn in the oil to lightly coat; season with salt and pepper. Spoon the vegetable mixture over the fillets. Bake until just opaque in the center, about 10 minutes. Garnish with additional sprigs of thyme.
Apalachicola Oysters with Sauce Mignonette
Makes 12 and serves 1 to 2 as a first course
½ cup best-quality white or red wine vinegar
1 small shallot, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Sea salt
12 fresh oysters
In a bowl, combine the vinegar, shallot, pepper, lemon zest, and a pinch of salt; set aside.
To shuck the oysters, using a towel, hold an oyster flat on the work surface, flat shell up. Insert the tip of an oyster knife into the hinge and twist to open it. Slide the knife along the inside of the upper shell to free the oyster from the shell; discard the upper shell. Slide the knife under the oyster to free it from the lower shell, but eave it in the shell. (See images at end of recipe.)
Arrange the shucked oysters on two serving plates, preferably oyster plates with wells. If you are using regular plates, cover them with rock salt or fresh seaweed, sometimes available at the fishmonger, to create a nest for the oysters so they don’t tip over. Spoon a teaspoon of sauce over each oyster and serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2½ pounds large shrimp (21/25 count), peeled and deveined
3 onions, preferably Vidalia, very thinly sliced
½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and very thinly sliced
4 bay leaves, preferably fresh
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup canola oil
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
In a large, nonreactive bowl, layer some of the shrimp, onions, bell pepper, bay leaf, garlic, peppercorns, red pepper flakes, and freshly ground black pepper. Create several layers of these ingredients until the remaining amount is used. Set aside.
In a large liquid measuring cup, combine the vinegar, oil, and lemon zest and juice. Pour this marinade over the shrimp mixture. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp is pink and opaque, at least 4 hours and up to 8 hours. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper before serving.
Serves 4 to 6 as a main course, or makes 24 bite-size hors d’oeuvres
⅓ cup fresh or panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
1 pound jumbo lump or lump crabmeat, picked over for cartilage
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
Zest of 1 lemon
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Dash of hot sauce
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup peanut oil, plus more if needed
4 lemons, cut into wedges, for garnish
Line a plate with paper towels and set near the cooktop.
In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, crab, egg, mayonnaise, lemon zest, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, salt, and pepper. The mixture will be slightly wet. Form into cakes: use about ¼ cup for large cakes and 1 tablespoon or so for hors d’oeuvres. Place on a baking sheet and refrigerate to chill and set, about 30 minutes.
Heat the peanut oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Using an offset spatula, gently slip the chilled cakes, in batches, into the oil. Cook until the crab cakes are golden brown, about 5 minutes on each side for large patties, or 1 to 2 minutes per side for small hors d’oeuvres. Remove from the skillet, and transfer to the prepared plate to drain. Serve hot with lemon wedges.
Serve 4 to 6
2 cups whole milk
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
4 to 6 soft-shell crabs, cleaned and patted dry
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons canola oil, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons clarified butter (see below)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits
Juice of ½ lemon
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Place the milk in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the crabs and let soak for 5 minutes. Place the flour in a shallow dish and season with salt and pepper.
Heat the oil and clarified butter in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Lift the crabs out of the milk, one at a time, letting the excess drip off, and dredge in the seasoned flour.
Add the crabs, without crowding, to the skillet and saute, in batches, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the crabs to a warm platter. Discard the oil from the skillet.
To make the sauce, return the skillet to the heat, add the butter pieces, and cook until golden brown. Add the lemon juice and parsley and remove from the heat. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and drizzle over the crabs.
Serves 4 to 6
2 cups buttermilk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 to 6 soft-shell crabs, cleaned and patted dry (see below)
4 cups peanut or canola oil, plus more if needed, for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white or yellow cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup microgreens (such as basil, arugula, or beet), for garnish (optional)
Jalapeño Tartar Sauce, for accompaniment
Combine the buttermilk and eggs in a large bowl. Add the crabs and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate to marinate for 1 hour.
Fill a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven (preferably cast iron) or pot with at least 2 inches of oil. Make sure there will be at least 2 inches headroom at the top of the pot when you add the crabs. Heat the oil over high heat until it reaches 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Line a plate with paper towels and set by the cooktop.
Meanwhile, to coat the crab, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking power, and ½ teaspoon of the salt in a shallow baking dish or bowl. Working with one crab at a time, remove it from the buttermilk mixture, shake to remove any excess, and dredge in the flour mixture. Turn to coat, and shake to remove any excess flour. Repeat with a second crab.
Immediately place one crab in the hot oil and then the second crab. Fry the crabs, two at a time, turning over halfway through frying, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the prepared plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining crabs, returning the oil to 375°F after each batch.
While hot, season the crabs with salt and pepper. Garnish with the greens and serve with the tartar sauce.
Valdosta Grilled Trout with Olive Oil
Serves 4
4 (6- to 8-ounce) whole trout, gutted
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons, very thinly sliced, plus 2 lemons, cut into wedges, for garnish
8 sprigs of thyme
8 sprigs of parsley
4 bay leaves, preferably fresh
Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Prepare a charcoal fire using about 6 pounds of charcoal and burn until the coals are completely covered with a thin coating of light gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Spread the coals evenly over the grill bottom, position the grill rack above the coals, and heat until medium-hot (when you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill surface for no longer than 3 or 4 seconds). Or for a gas grill, turn on all burners to High, close the lid, and heat until very hot, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the trout on a clean work surface and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Equally divide the lemon slices, thyme, parsley, and bay leaves among the trout cavities.
Place the stuffed trout on the grill, heads facing in one direction. Grill, covered, until cooked on one side, about 5 minutes.
Uncover the grill, and flip the trout over (simply roll them over with a metal spatula). Cover, and continue cooking until the trout is done on the second side, an additional 3 to 5 minutes.
To serve, remove the trout to a warm platter and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with the lemon wedges and serve immediately.
