Southerners, rich and poor, black and white, have historically consumed the same basic foods that sustained settlers as far back as the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries: corn, pork, wild game, and food gathered in the wild such as cress from the river banks and greens from the woods. The importance of corn in this scheme cannot be overstated. Corn was eaten fresh in the summer, and dried and ground into meal for boiling and baking in the winter. Ground corn in the form of grits is simple country food, and a touchstone of Southern cooking.
Most Southerners love grits, and I am no exception. My grandmother made old-fashioned grits with water, simmering them on the stove until they were thick and rich with the taste of corn. My mother has a bowl of grits with cheese every morning without fail.
Grits are ground from “dent” or field corn, a type of corn with a low sugar content and a relatively soft, starchy center that is the premier Southern milling corn. Somewhere along the way, the term “grist,” meaning grain for milling, became “grits.” Other popular types of corn include popcorn and sweet corn (both of which are widely known and loved in the United States), flint corn (the type used for polenta in Italy and for posole and masa harina in Latin America), and flour corn (about which Southerners take fierce stands on which color is better, white or yellow).
Grits are further defined by how they are prepared and ground. There are hominy grits, stone-ground grits, and various grades of commercially ground grits from fine to coarse. Hominy is made from corn kernels soaked in an alkaline solution of water and lye to remove the kernel’s outer hull. When hominy is dried and coarsely ground, the result is hominy grits.
Stone-ground grits are made from dried whole corn kernels ground between two stones, just as they were centuries ago, which guarantees their old-fashioned flavor. The germ, in the center of the grain, is very oily, which means these grits have a whole lot of corn flavor. The ground corn is sifted (bolted) to remove the husks. The same stone-ground corn can vary in flavor depending on the size of the ground particles. Because stone-ground grits are not as processed and the larger particles retain the oily germ (removed in commercially processed grits), they are more perishable and should be refrigerated or frozen. They must also be simmered very slowly for at least an hour to coax out their tender, creamy texture.
If you are unable to find stone-ground grits in stores, search out the best-quality commercially ground grits, labeled “coarse” or “old-fashioned.” They will take thirty to forty-five minutes to cook, and while they are not as richly flavored with corn, they do have some of the toothsome texture of stone-ground.
In massive commercial operations, the grits are processed in big roller mills. The germ is removed to prevent rancidity and improve the product’s shelf life. The grits are finely ground and produce a smooth, bland porridge without a whole lot of corn flavor.
In this chapter, most of the recipes call for stone-ground or coarse-ground grits. I suggest using quick grits if you are in a real pinch, making the appropriate adjustments for cooking time. Don’t bother with instant grits that cook in mere minutes. You may as well just heat up some glue and sawdust.
Rice is the other prominent Southern grain, and is second only to wheat as the most widely cultivated cereal in the world. A staple food in many countries, it is divided into long-, medium-, and short-grain categories. In general, the longer the grain, the more likely it is to cook in separate, fluffy grains. Rice was planted in South Carolina as early as 1680 and was a major export crop. The coastal sea islands and swampy coastline of South Carolina and Georgia—the Low Country—is very humid, has abundant rainfall, and long hot summers with mild winters. It’s the perfect climate for growing rice.
Throughout the eighteenth century, the economy of South Carolina was dependent on the cultivation of rice, specifically a variety of rice known as Carolina Gold, considered the grande dame of American rice. It was called Carolina Gold for its beautiful golden hue in the fields, but it also made Charleston one of the richest cities in the New World.
The labor-intensive grain, grown in boggy fields, owed its success as a crop primarily to the system of slavery that existed for hundreds of years. The plants were tended by hand, and after the harvest, the rice was hand-pounded by mortar and pestle. Plantation owners paid a premium for slaves from the rice-growing region of West Africa, as they were valued for their skills at rice cultivation.
Rice was prized for its unusually starchy properties that allow it to be creamy like risotto or fluffy individual grains, depending on how it was cooked. The bountiful Southern rice harvest allowed the United States to dominate the world rice market until the Civil War.
After the Civil War, the plantations fell into disrepair, Charleston declined in prominence, and Carolina Gold, the rice that had created an entire cuisine—the Carolina Rice Kitchen—almost faded into history. The same wetlands that made Carolina Gold so popular doomed it after the loss of slave labor.
The rice industry moved west to Arkansas, Louisiana, Texas, Mississippi, and eventually California and Missouri, states that had drier fields that were easier to work. Modern, less labor-intensive, more shelf-stable hybrids replaced Carolina Gold, and eventually, after the Depression, this heirloom grain was sent to a USDA seed repository for preservation. According to the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation, in the mid-1980s, Dr. Richard Schulze, an eye surgeon and landowner from Savannah, collected stores of this heirloom rice from the USDA and started growing it once again in the Carolina Low Country.
The rice that was once grown in coastal fields from northern Florida to Delaware, and was once synonymous in the United States with long-grain rice, is now an upscale, boutique item valued by chefs and devoted foodies who don’t mind paying seven dollars a pound for rice. The success of this venture is inherently tied to the hope that more and more people will support artisan food, heirloom varieties, and organic, locally grown, sustainable agriculture.
Recently, pasta and potatoes have made their way into the Southern pantry, but I remember my hurt feelings as a small child when my grandmother conjectured that I must like potatoes so much because my father was from Massachusetts. (A friend in college pointed out that as I am ever the Southerner and concerned about my lineage, I should be thankful that at least he was a real Yankee from New England.)
Serves 6 to 8
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the dish
2 cups water
2 cups whole milk
1 cup stone-ground or coarse-ground grits
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese (about 6 ounces)
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped
2 green onions, white and green parts, chopped
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a large casserole.
In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the water and milk and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in the grits and return to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer until creamy and thick, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the cheese and 2 tablespoons butter. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Add the eggs, cayenne, jalapeño, and green onions and stir until well incorporated. Spoon the mixture into the prepared casserole. Bake until bubbly and golden brown, about 1 hour. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
2 cups water
2 cups whole milk
1 cup stone-ground or coarse-ground grits
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 ounces country ham, thinly sliced into strips
1½ pounds mixed fresh mushrooms (such as white button, cremini, morel, chanterelle, or portobello), sliced
¼ cup dry white wine
¾ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 3 ounces)
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the water and milk to a gentle boil over medium high heat. Slowly add the grits, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer, stirring often, until the grits are creamy and thick, 45 to 60 minutes.
Line a plate with paper towels. While the grits are cooking, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ham and cook until lightly browned and some of the fat has rendered, about 3 minutes. Remove the ham from the skillet to the prepared plate and tent loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.
In the same skillet, using the oil left in the pan, add the mushrooms, season with freshly ground pepper, and saute, stirring, until barely tender, about 2 minutes. (No salt is needed, as the salt from the ham has flavored the cooking oil.) Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are tender, about 5 more minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Remove the grits from the heat; whisk in the cheese, parsley, and butter. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. To serve, place a dollop of grits on individual serving plates. Spoon over the sauteed mushrooms and top with the country ham. Serve immediately.
Grits with Corn and Vidalia Onion
Serves 4 to 6
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, grated
Scraped kernels from 2 ears fresh sweet corn (about 1 cup)
2 cups whole milk
2 cups water
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup stone-ground or coarse-ground grits
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¾ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 3 ounces)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until transparent, about 2 minutes. Add the corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kernels become soft, about 5 minutes.
Add the milk, water, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits, decrease the heat to low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until the grits are creamy and thick, 45 to 60 minutes. Stir in the butter, cheese, parsley, and chives. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
VARIATION: Grits and greens are one of the best possible marriages in Southern cuisine. It’s a meal in itself or an incredible bed for Bourbon Baked Ham. Prepare Tangle of Bitter Greens, then add the greens to the saucepan of cooked grits as the last step, stirring well to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small shallot, chopped
2 cups long-grain white rice (such as Carolina Gold, jasmine, or basmati)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth or water
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large, ovenproof saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat until foaming. Add the shallot and cook until clear and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the rice and stir to combine. Cook, stirring constantly, until the rice is coated with butter and lightly toasted. Season with 1 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Add the stock and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, 17 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Add the parsley and fluff with a fork just before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
1½ cups water
1½ cups long-grain white rice
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ red onion, chopped
½ poblano chile or green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1½ teaspoons prepared or Homemade Creole Seasoning
1 cup chicken livers, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
1 cup chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
2 green onions, white and green parts, chopped
To parboil the rice, combine the water and rice in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and decrease the heat to low. Simmer until the rice is just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Cover and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, chile, and celery. Sprinkle over the Creole seasoning. Cook until the vegetables start to color, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chicken livers and cook, stirring frequently, until the liver turns brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds.
Add the reserved rice, chicken stock, and bay leaf. Stir to combine. Decrease the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is soft and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the green onions and serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8
1 pound dried red kidney beans, washed and picked over for stones
1 ham bone, or 2 pounds boudin, smoked sausage, or Cajun andouille, sliced 1 inch thick
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
6 cups water
Hot sauce, for seasoning
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Double recipe $20,000 Rice Pilaf, for accompaniment
Place the kidney beans in a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak overnight. Or place the beans in a large pot of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the beans come to a boil, remove from the heat and set aside for 1 hour. Before cooking, discard any floating beans and drain.
To prepare in a slow cooker, place the drained soaked beans, ham bone, onion, garlic, and the water in the insert of a slow cooker. Cook over low heat until the beans are tender, about 6 hours.
To prepare on the stovetop, combine the soaked beans, ham bone, onion, garlic, and water in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Simmer, covered, until the beans are tender, 4 to 5 hours. Season with hot sauce. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with rice pilaf.
Serves 6 to 8
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish, melted
4 sweet potatoes, scrubbed
½ cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush an ovenproof casserole with some of the melted butter.
Place the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and roast until very tender, about 1 hour. Cool to room temperature. Peel the potatoes, discarding the skins. Place the potatoes in a large bowl and mash until smooth.
To the sweet potatoes, add ½ cup of the melted butter, the granulated sugar, eggs, milk, and vanilla. Stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture into the prepared casserole. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining ½ cup of melted butter, light brown sugar, flour, and pecans. Stir until combined. Sprinkle over the reserved casserole.
Bake until bubbly and heated through, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
4 to 6 sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced about ½ inch thick
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
½ cup bourbon
2 tablespoons sorghum, cane, or maple syrup
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an ovenproof gratin or casserole dish. Arrange the sweet potato slices in the prepared dish and season with salt and pepper.
In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, 4 tablespoons butter, bourbon, and syrup and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As soon as the sauce is boiling, pour it over the sweet potatoes. Bake the casserole, basting and turning the potatoes occasionally, until the sweet potatoes are soft and tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.
Serves 4 to 6
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and sliced
1 large bulb celeriac (celery root), peeled and sliced (about 2 pounds)
2 cups milk
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
In a saucepan, add the potatoes, celeriac, and milk, then fill the pot with enough cold water so the liquid covers the vegetables by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat; salt generously. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the potatoes and celeriac are tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Drain the vegetables in a colander, discarding the liquid, and return them to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes.
Mash the vegetables in the saucepan until smooth with a ricer, food mill, or potato masher. Add the butter, stirring vigorously, until well combined. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan
2 cups whole milk
1 cup very fine yellow cornmeal
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Scraped kernels from 2 ears fresh sweet corn (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 large eggs, separated
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter an ovenproof casserole or round 2-quart soufflé mold.
To prepare the batter, in a medium saucepan, combine the milk and cornmeal over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, whisking rapidly and constantly, until very, very thick, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the corn kernels, chives, and the 2 tablespoons melted butter. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, stirring after each addition.
To beat the egg whites, in a separate bowl, using a handheld mixer, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on high speed until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the warm cornmeal mixture.
Transfer the lightened cornmeal mixture to the prepared pan; smooth the surface with a spatula. Bake until puffed and risen and the inside is firm, but moist, and the top is golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately while puffed and risen.
Serves 4 to 6
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 cups elbow macaroni
2 cups whole milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
8 ounces extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, cut into ¼-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an ovenproof casserole dish.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until tender (a little more than al dente), about 12 minutes. Drain well in a colander.
In a large bowl, combine the drained macaroni, milk, eggs, and cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the prepared dish.
Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 25 to 30 minutes, or longer if you like a dark, chewy, cheesy topping. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup milk
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 tablespoons grated fresh or well-drained bottled horseradish
In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, place the potatoes and cover with cold water. Season with salt, bring to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to low. Gently simmer until fork tender, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a second saucepan, combine the cream, milk, butter, and horseradish over low heat. Cook until the butter is melted; cover and keep warm.
Drain the potatoes in a colander and return them to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Mash the potatoes in the saucepan until smooth with a ricer, food mill, or potato masher. Add the warm cream sauce, stirring vigorously until well combined. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ head cauliflower, separated into florets
2 cloves garlic
1 carrot, chopped
¼ cup buttermilk, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, place the potatoes and cover with cold water. Season with salt and bring to a boil over high heat; add the cauliflower, garlic, and carrot. Decrease the heat to low. Simmer gently until the vegetables are fork tender, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the buttermilk and butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until the butter is melted; cover and keep warm.
Drain the vegetables in a colander, and return them to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Mash the vegetables in the saucepan until smooth with a ricer, food mill, or potato masher. Add the warm buttermilk mixture and the parsley, stirring vigorously until well combined. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8
4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons
1½ to 2 pounds russet potatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups whole milk, plus more if needed
1 cup heavy cream, plus more if needed
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2 ounces)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a plate with paper towels. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet, parchment paper, or aluminum foil to protect the baking sheet from spills and make for easy cleanup.
Heat a skillet over medium heat and cook the bacon until brown and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bacon to the prepared plate, reserving the rendered fat. Brush an ovenproof gratin dish with some of the rendered bacon fat. Save the remaining fat for another use or discard.
Peel the potatoes and, preferably using a mandoline, slice them ⅛ inch thick. Or, using a chef’s knife, carefully slice the potatoes thinly and evenly.
Arrange the potatoes in the dish in overlapping layers, seasoning with the reserved bacon, thyme, garlic, and salt and pepper as you go. Place the gratin on the prepared baking sheet. Combine the milk, heavy cream, and nutmeg in a medium heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Pour over the gratin. Sprinkle the cheese over the top.
Bake until the potatoes are tender and deep golden brown, and the edges are bubbling, about 1 hour. (If the gratin starts to brown too deeply, cover with aluminum foil.) Let cool slightly, about 10 minutes, before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
1½ pounds Yukon gold potatoes, quartered
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups shelled edamame beans, thawed if frozen
¼ cup whole milk or buttermilk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
In a saucepan, add the potatoes and enough cold water to cover, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Season with salt, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Add the edamame and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well in a colander.
Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until the butter is melted, then cover and keep warm.
Return the drained vegetables to their saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes.
Mash the vegetables in the saucepan until smooth with a ricer, food mill, or potato masher. Add the warm milk mixture and the chives, stirring vigorously until well combined. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the dish
1 onion, preferably Vidalia, very thinly sliced
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2½ cups chicken stock or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush an ovenproof gratin dish with oil. Scatter the onions on the bottom of the dish.
Using a sharp knife, thinly slice each potato, stopping each cut ¼ inch from the bottom, so the potato is sliced, but still intact.
Place the potatoes in the prepared gratin. Drizzle the 2 tablespoons oil over the potatoes and onions. Sprinkle with the garlic and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour the stock over the potatoes and bake, basting occasionally, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the potatoes are tender when pierced with the point of a knife, about 45 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
8 medium red-skinned or Yukon gold potatoes
16 to 20 bay leaves, preferably fresh
½ cup olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sea salt, for finishing
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice each potato, stopping each cut ¼ inch from the bottom, so the potato is sliced, but still intact. Insert 1 to 2 bay leaves into each potato.
Place the potatoes in a large roasting pan. Drizzle over the oil and toss the potatoes to coat. Season the potatoes with coarse salt and pepper.
Roast the potatoes until tender when pierced with the point of a knife, about 1 hour. Season with sea salt and additional freshly ground black pepper. Serve hot.
