Several years ago I spent a Thanksgiving evening walking the beautiful Champs-Élysées in Paris. I was working in France at the time, and, aside from the magical twinkling lights in the trees, what I remember most is feeling like it was not Thanksgiving at all. An American in Paris? No, I was a pitiful, homesick Southerner. I wanted, in this order, Mama, the smell of roast turkey in my grandmother’s kitchen, and a buttery wedge of Meme’s pound cake with a little piece of Mama’s pecan pie on the side.
Notice the prominence of dessert in my longings—the Southern sweet tooth is a powerful force. Sugar is more than an ingredient in the South. It falls somewhere between condiment and food group. We have desserts at birthday parties, holidays, and special occasions. Like lonely me walking the streets of Paris in a reverie, people want to experience those memories again and relive their pasts through dessert. Mamas calm crying babies with sugar. (Mama dipped my sister’s pacifier in Karo syrup; she finally put a stop to it when Jona was old enough to reach the bottle on the dresser herself.) We drink tea so sweet it will make your teeth hurt, slather jam and jelly on biscuits, eat ham cured in sugar and salt, often put a pinch of sugar in slow-cooked greens, and finish up the meal with a sweet wedge of pie.
Some food historians claim that the Southern fascination with sugar is a practical one. In the hot, humid South, sugar was originally a means of preservation. That’s why we have sugar-cured ham and bacon, sweet pickles, and boiled icing to protect cakes. Another reason for sugar’s importance is that the crop was tied to slavery. Sugar production is undeniably back-breaking work and very labor-intensive. Sugar cane followed the movement of African slaves through the islands of the Caribbean and into the plantations of the South where it was grown. The mothers and sisters of the men working hard in the fields were in the kitchen, making the food that eventually evolved into Southern cuisine.
When transportation of goods depended upon horses and wagons on iffy roads, it could take months for sugar to travel from the sugar-growing state of Louisiana to hill and mountain country. Sugar was a precious commodity then, kept under lock and key, and Southern craftsmen created a specialized piece of furniture known as the sugar chest to store it. These strong, decorative boxes were built throughout the South, most notably in Kentucky and Tennessee. Finally, with the advent of steamboats and improved shipping, sugar prices fell in the nineteenth century and sugar became more widely available throughout the region.
In the South of living memory, the pièce de résistance of all holidays and special occasions is the sideboard laden with an immense dessert buffet. Imagine a profusion of tender layer cakes, golden pecan pies, pumpkin pies the color of burnt sienna, amber peanut brittle, sugared pecans, and bubbling cobblers. I feel the presence of my grandmother with every crumb—the toasted buttery smell of the cakes coming out of their pans instantly reminds me of Meme.
Choosing a balanced representation of recipes to include in this chapter was a daunting task. The list of Southern desserts is a lengthy one. I’ve included the desserts of my childhood, faithful friends and tried-and-true recipes we still enjoy, such as Meme’s Pound Cake and Aunt Julia’s Chocolate Pie. (I calculated that it was entirely possible my grandmother made her pound cake more than one thousand times in the course of her lifetime!)
The litany of classic and country desserts I learned in the pastry kitchen in France made selection of French desserts no less of a challenge. I remember the joy I had when visiting home and making my newly learned treats for my family and friends, how much Meme loved crème brulée and Chocolate Pots de Crème. It suddenly was not so difficult after all. Life is undeniably sweet on both sides of the Atlantic.
Makes 8 to 10 shortcakes
SHORTCAKES
3½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
⅓ cup granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
Grated zest of 1 orange, or 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
1 cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing
½ cup whole milk
Turbinado, Demerara, or raw brown sugar, for sprinkling
BERRIES AND GARNISH
2 pints strawberries, hulled and quartered lengthwise
Juice of 1 orange
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Whipped cream, for accompaniment
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment paper.
To prepare the shortcakes, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt on low speed. Add the butter and zest, and mix on low until the mixture resembles coarse meal, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and milk and increase the speed to medium; mix until the dough comes together. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface, lightly knead a few times, and shape into a rectangle about ¾ inch thick.
Cut out dough circles using a 3-inch round cutter. Place the circles on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the tops lightly with cream and sprinkle with the turbinado sugar. Bake until the shortcakes are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool.
Meanwhile, to prepare the berries, place the strawberries in a bowl. Add the orange juice and granulated sugar. Set aside.
To serve, halve the shortcakes horizontally with a serrated knife. Place the bottom halves on individual serving plates, top each with a dollop of whipped cream, then some berries, and another dollop of whipped cream. Cover with the tops of the shortcakes and serve.
The shortcakes can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Makes one 10-inch cake
1¼ cups sifted cake flour (not self-rising)
1½ cups sugar
12 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
1½ teaspoons cream of tartar
½ vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon almond extract
Bourbon Crème Anglaise (recipe follows)
Position an oven rack in the lower part of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Sift the flour with ¾ cup of the sugar. Re-sift three times. Set aside.
To prepare the batter, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, place the egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar. Whisk on medium speed until foamy. Add the vanilla-bean seeds and almond extract. With the mixer on medium speed, add the remaining ¾ cup of sugar, a little at a time, until the whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks when the whisk is lifted. Sift enough of the flour mixture in to dust the top of the foam. Using a spatula, fold in gently. Continue until all of the flour mixture is incorporated.
Gently spoon the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan. With a spatula or a knife, using a circular motion, cut through the batter twice to eliminate any large pockets of air. Smooth the top to remove any large peaks.
Bake until golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Invert the pan over a bottle (such as a 2-liter soda bottle or wine bottle) and let rest until completely cooled, about 2 hours.
To serve, set upright, and using a butter knife or long spatula, loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Invert onto a serving plate. Slice with a serrated knife or angel food cake cutter. Serve drizzled with crème anglaise.
The cake will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Makes 3 cups
2 cups whole milk
6 large egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 tablespoon bourbon
Make an ice bath by filling a large bowl halfway with ice cubes and water.
In a saucepan, bring the milk almost to a boil over medium heat. In a second saucepan, blend together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt with a wooden spoon until thick and light (be careful not to make the mixture foamy). Mix in half the hot milk, then transfer the mixture to the other saucepan with the remaining milk and blend. Add the bourbon.
Decrease the heat to low and simmer gently, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Continue stirring the custard until thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and the mixture reaches 180°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the heat.
Set a sieve over a large, clean bowl and pass the custard through the sieve.
Place the bowl in the ice bath, and stir the custard until it has completely cooled. Lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. Store the custard in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
Serves 6 to 8
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
4 cups fresh blackberries
1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling, if needed
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Whipped cream, crème fraîche, or ice cream, for accompaniment
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Melt the butter in a large cast-iron skillet or ovenproof baking dish in the oven, 5 to 7 minutes.
Place the blackberries in a large bowl. Using a potato masher, mash them to release some of the juices. If the berries are tart, sprinkle over some of the sugar.
To make the batter, in another bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the 1 cup sugar, milk, and vanilla extract, and stir until evenly blended. Remove the skillet from the oven and add the melted butter to the batter; stir to combine. Pour the batter all at once into the skillet, then add the blackberries and juices to the center of the batter.
Bake until the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the batter comes out clean, about 1 hour. Serve, hot, warm, or at room temperature with whipped cream, crème fraîche, or ice cream.
Serves 4 to 6
6 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1½ tablespoons cocoa powder, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)
Pinch of fine sea salt
1¼ cups heavy cream
1¼ cups milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Whipped cream, for accompaniment
In a saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, cocoa, espresso powder, and salt. Combine the heavy cream with milk and vanilla extract in a large measuring cup. Whisk the liquid mixture into the dry ingredients in the saucepan until smooth.
Place the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens, about 5 minutes. Add the chocolate and cook, whisking constantly, until the chocolate is melted, 1 to 2 minutes.
Remove the saucepan from the heat. Whisk in the butter until melted. Divide the mixture equally among 4 to 6 serving dishes such as dessert coupes or ramekins. To prevent a skin from forming, place plastic wrap directly on the surface of each pudding. Chill in the refrigerator until set, about 1 hour.
When chilled completely, serve topped with a spoonful of whipped cream and dust with cocoa powder. Serve immediately.
Serves 6
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
5 ounces best-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
5 large egg yolks
⅓ cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch of fine sea salt
Whipped cream, for garnish
Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place six 6-ounce ramekins in a roasting pan.
In a saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and chocolate over medium heat. Bring almost to a simmer; remove from the heat. Set aside, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate is completely melted.
In a large measuring cup, whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar. While whisking, add a little of the hot milk mixture to the egg mixture to combine. (This technique is called tempering; it makes the temperatures of two mixtures—one containing raw egg—more similar, so the egg won’t curdle in the presence of heat.) Add the remaining milk mixture, and whisk to combine. Whisk in the vanilla and salt.
Pour approximately ½ cup of the egg mixture into each ramekin. Cover each ramekin tightly with aluminum foil to prevent a skin from forming. Fill the roasting pan with enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are just set in the center, 35 to 40 minutes.
Remove the pots from the water, and place on a wire rack to cool, about 30 minutes. (I usually remove the pots with tongs and leave the roasting pan of water in the oven. Turn the oven off and let the water cool until it is safe to remove the pan.)
When the pots de crème have cooled completely, refrigerate to chill thoroughly, preferably overnight. Just before serving, top with a dollop of whipped cream.
Makes one 9-inch pie
All-American Pie Crust, fully baked
1 cup granulated sugar
2 cups whole milk
3½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup cocoa powder
3 large eggs, separated
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
Preheat the oven to 500°F.
To prepare the pie filling, in a saucepan, combine the 1 cup of granulated sugar and 1 cup of the milk. Set aside.
In a bowl, combine the remaining 1 cup of milk, the flour, and cocoa powder in a bowl and whisk thoroughly to combine. (Mama uses a shaker and shakes the mixture until it is well combined and frothy.) Set aside.
Heat the saucepan with the milk-sugar mixture over medium-high heat until simmering. Slowly add the milk-flour mixture and stir to combine. Bring to a boil. Add the egg yolks, whisking constantly, until it returns to a boil. Once the mixture comes to a boil, immediately add the vanilla and remove it from the heat.
Pour the mixture into the baked pie crust. Set aside.
To make the meringue topping, place the egg whites in a non-reactive bowl with a pinch of salt. Add the cream of tartar and, using a hand-held mixer, whisk on high speed until foamy. Sift over the confectioners’ sugar a little at a time and whisk until the whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks when the whisk is lifted.
To finish the pie, spoon the meringue over the pie, making sure it touches the edges of the pie crust. Bake until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Move to a rack to cool completely and set, then serve.
Makes two 9-inch pies
Double recipe All-American Pie Crust
3 large eggs, slightly beaten
1 cup sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups coarsely chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare 2 unbaked 9-inch pie shells.
To make the filling, combine the eggs, sugar, corn syrup, butter, vanilla, and salt in a bowl; stir until blended. Add the pecans and stir to combine. Pour into the chilled pie shells.
Bake the pies, rotating once, until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Remove the pies to a wire rack to cool. The pies can be stored wrapped tight in aluminum foil or in a pie safe (at room temperature) for up to 1 week.
Makes one 9-inch pie
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Pinch of fine sea salt
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
½ cup buttermilk
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup flaked fresh coconut
Prepare an unbaked 9-inch pie shell. Preheat the oven to 325°F. To prepare the filling, in a bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, and salt. Add the butter, buttermilk, eggs, vanilla extract, and coconut. Stir to combine. Pour into the pie shell. Bake until set and pale golden brown, about 1 hour. Remove to a rack to cool. Let cool completely before slicing and serving.
Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days. (Don’t worry, it won’t last!)
Makes one 9-inch pie crust
1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ cup solid vegetable shortening, preferably Crisco, chilled and cut into pieces
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces
3 to 8 tablespoons ice water
In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the flour and salt, then add the vegetable shortening and butter. Process until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 8 to 10 seconds.
With the processor on pulse, add enough of the ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough holds together without being sticky or crumbly. Shape the dough into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill until firm and the moisture has distributed evenly, about 30 minutes.
Flour a clean work surface and a rolling pin. (If making a double-crust pie or 2 pie shells, work with one disk at a time, keeping the second disk chilled.) Place a dough disk in the center of the floured surface. Starting in the center of the dough, roll to, but not over, the upper edge of the dough. Return to the center, and roll down to, but not over, the lower edge. Lift the dough, give it a quarter turn, and lay it on the work surface. Continue rolling, repeating the quarter turns, until you have a disk about ⅛ inch thick.
Ease the pastry into a 9-inch pie plate. Trim 1 inch larger than the diameter of the pie plate; fold the overhanging pastry under itself along the rim of the plate. For a simple decorative edge, press the tines of a fork around the folded pastry. To make a fluted edge, using both your finger and thumb, pinch and crimp the folded dough. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
To blind bake, see directions for French Pie Pastry.
Serves 6
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2 cups heavy cream
¾ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
5 large egg yolks
For the topping, spread the sugar on a large plate or baking sheet and let dry on the counter, uncovered, for at least 3 hours or overnight. When it is properly dried, it will feel dry and sandy. If it’s hard and clumped together, sift it through a mesh sieve. Set aside. (You can use an equal amount of white granulated sugar.)
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking dish with a paper towel or tea towel and set six 4-ounce ramekins in the dish.
To prepare the custard, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the cream, ½ cup of the granulated sugar, and the scraped vanilla-bean seeds and stir over medium heat until blended, the sugar dissolves, and the mixture comes to a simmer. Cover the pan, decrease the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 10 minutes to infuse the cream with vanilla flavor. Strain into a large measuring cup, rinsing and saving the bean for another use.
Meanwhile, whisk the yolks with the salt and remaining ¼ cup sugar in a bowl until well blended. Gradually whisk in some of the hot cream mixture just to blend, then whisk the egg mixture into the remaining cream mixture in the measuring cup. Divide the custard equally among the ramekins. Pour enough hot water into the baking dish to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Carefully transfer the baking dish to the oven.
Bake the custards until almost set in the center when the ramekins are gently shaken, about 35 minutes. Using a metal spatula or tongs, transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool to room temperature. (Let the water bath cool completely before removing it from the oven.) Once the custards are at room temperature, chill them in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 2 days.
To finish, evenly sprinkle about 2 teaspoons of the prepared brown sugar over each custard. Working with 1 ramekin at a time, hold a kitchen torch so that the flame is about 2 inches above the sugared surface of the custard. Direct the flame so that the sugar melts and browns. Serve immediately.
Makes 48
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup solid vegetable shortening, preferably Crisco, at room temperature
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
In a bowl, sift together the flour, salt, baking soda, and cream of tartar. Set aside.
In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, cream the butter and shortening on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat on low speed until smooth. Add the egg and vanilla extract and continue beating on low until well combined.
On low speed, slowly add the reserved dry ingredients. Beat until well combined. Cover with plastic wrap. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill until very firm, at least 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using an ice cream scoop or a melon baller, take some of the dough and shape it into small 1-inch balls. (Keep the remaining dough in the refrigerator, as it must be kept chilled.) Place the dough balls on an ungreased baking sheet and press with the tines of a fork to flatten. Bake until pale golden, but not brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool slightly on the baking sheet on a rack. Then, using a spatula, transfer the cookies to a rack to cool completely.
Makes one 9-inch pie
Double recipe All-American Pie Crust, in 2 disks
7 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
¾ cup to 1 cup sugar, plus more for topping the pie
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch of fine sea salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 tablespoon water
Prepare the pie pastry. To shape the crust, on a lightly floured work surface, roll out one disk of the dough into a 13-inch round about ⅛ inch thick. Transfer the dough round to a 9-inch pie plate. With a sharp paring knife, trim the dough flush with the rim of the plate. Freeze until firm, at least 30 minutes.
To make the filling, place the apples in a bowl; sprinkle over the sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Stir to combine and coat. Place the apple mixture in the unbaked pie shell. Dot with butter bits.
Roll out the remaining half of the pie crust on a lightly floured surface. Cover the filled pie crust with the round of dough, and trim so that 1 inch overhangs the pie plate. Fold the dough under, and crimp the edges by pressing with a fork or your fingers. Chill in the refrigerator until the crust is firm, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, to bake the pie, preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush the top of the pie with the water. Sprinkle over a teaspoon or so of sugar. Bake until golden brown, about 50 minutes.
Transfer to a rack to cool slightly before slicing and serving.
Makes one 9-inch cake
2½ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
2 cups vegetable oil
1½ cups sugar
2 large eggs
1 (1-ounce) bottle red food coloring
CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 (16-ounce) box confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 to 3 teaspoons whole milk, as needed
1 cup chopped pecans, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour three 9-inch round cake pans and line the bottoms with waxed or parchment paper. Butter and flour the paper. In a bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. In a measuring cup, combine the buttermilk, vanilla extract, and vinegar. Set aside.
To prepare the batter, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the oil and the sugar on medium speed. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix well after each addition. With the mixer on low speed, add the food coloring. Add the flour mixture alternating with the buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with flour, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Mix until just combined.
To bake the layers, divide the batter among the prepared pans. Bake until firm and a toothpick inserted into the cakes comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the cakes cool in the pans on a rack for 5 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, to prepare the frosting, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, cream the cream cheese and butter on medium speed until smooth. Sift over the confectioners’ sugar. Beat until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla. If too stiff, add the milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, to achieve the correct consistency.
To assemble, place one layer on a cardboard cake round. Spread with frosting. Repeat with the remaining 2 layers, placing the final layer bottom-side up. Finish with the remaining frosting. Sprinkle over the pecans. Serve the cake immediately, or store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Makes 24 squares
1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3⅔ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups granulated sugar
7 large eggs
Grated zest and juice of 5 lemons (about 1 cup juice)
Take a few bits of the butter and, using your hands, grease an 18 × 13-inch (half-sheet size) rimmed baking sheet.
To make the crust, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine 3 cups of the flour, the ¾ cup of confectioners’ sugar, and half of the salt; pulse until well combined. Add the remaining butter and pulse until the mixture starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and, using your fingers, press into the pan. To ensure that the dough is a smooth, uniform layer, cover with a sheet of plastic wrap, then, using the back of a spoon, spread the dough evenly in the pan. Chill in the refrigerator until firm, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the chilled dough until golden brown, rotating once, about 30 minutes; remove to a rack and leave the oven on.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, in the work bowl of the food processor (no need to worry about residual dough), combine the remaining ⅔ cup of flour, the granulated sugar, the remaining pinch of salt, eggs, grated lemon zest, and lemon juice.
To assemble, pour the filling on top of the still-warm crust. Bake until set and just beginning to color, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely, about 2 hours. Sift over additional confectioners’ sugar. Slice into squares and serve.
Makes one 9-inch pie
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon white or yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ cup melted butter, cooled to room temperature
½ cup buttermilk, at room temperature
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Juice of ½ lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
All-American Pie Crust, blind baked and still warm
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Add the sugar, cornmeal, flour, and salt. Whisk well to combine. Add the butter, buttermilk, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla extract. Whisk well to combine. Pour into the warm pie shell.
Bake until golden brown and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. (The pie may puff and crackle during baking, which is fine. It will settle as it cools.) Remove to a rack to cool completely before slicing and serving.
Makes one 10-inch cake
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for the pan
3 cups White Lily or other Southern all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup whole milk, at room temperature
5 large eggs, at room temperature
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup solid vegetable shortening, preferably Crisco, at room temperature
3 cups sugar
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Generously grease a 16-cup (measure to the rim) bundt pan with butter. In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. In a large liquid measuring cup, combine the milk, eggs, and the scraped vanilla seeds. Set aside.
In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, cream together the 1 cup of butter, vegetable shortening, and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the flour and milk mixtures to the butter mixture in 3 batches, alternating between dry and liquid, occasionally scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Fill the prepared pan with batter (it should be no more than two-thirds full).
Bake for 15 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 325°F and bake an additional 45 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Remove to a rack to cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cake onto the rack to cool completely.
This cake will stay moist in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Makes one 8-inch cake
CAKE
2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for the pans
3 cups cake flour (not self-rising), plus more for the pans
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup whole milk
8 large egg whites
Pinch of fine sea salt
LEMON CURD
8 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
Grated zest and juice of 4 lemons
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into bits
FROSTING
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
½ cup Lemon Curd (see above)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 8 × 3-inch cake pans. In a bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder. Set aside.
To make the cake, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, cream the 2 cups of butter, sugar, and scraped vanilla-bean seeds on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture, alternating with the milk, beginning and ending with flour, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Transfer the batter to a large bowl.
Switch to the whisk attachment of the mixer and use a clean bowl. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt on low speed until foamy. Increase the speed to high and beat until stiff peaks form, 3 to 5 minutes. By hand, whisk one-third of the beaten whites into the batter to lighten the mixture. Using a large rubber spatula, fold the remaining whites into the lightened batter. Divide the batter between the prepared pans.
Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the cakes comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool for 5 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the wire rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, for the lemon curd, prepare an ice-water bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.
To prepare the lemon curd, in a stainless steel bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, and salt until blended. Cook, stirring constantly (to prevent the eggs from curdling), until the mixture is very thick and reaches 170°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately pour through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl to filter out any lumps or cooked egg. Whisk in the butter, one piece at a time, whisking until each piece of butter has melted before adding the next. Add the lemon zest and stir to combine. Place the bowl in the ice-water bath (or in the refrigerator), stirring occasionally, to cool.
To make the frosting, switch back to the paddle attachment of the mixer and use a clean bowl. Cream the cream cheese and butter on medium speed until smooth. Sift over the confectioners’ sugar. Beat until light and fluffy. Add the ½ cup of chilled lemon curd and beat on medium speed until combined. Set aside.
To assemble the cake, once the layers have cooled completely, halve each with a serrated knife to create 4 layers. Place one sliced layer on a cardboard cake round. Spread with about ½ cup of lemon curd. Repeat with the remaining cake layers, spreading ½ cup of lemon curd between each layer. Place the final cake layer bottom-side up. Using an offset spatula, cover the top and sides with frosting.
Makes 24
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for the dish
2 cups sugar
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1¼ cups cocoa powder
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
12 ounces best-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush a 9 × 13-inch baking dish or pan with butter.
In a saucepan, melt the 1 cup of butter over medium heat; add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Keep warm.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter mixture and stir to combine. Add the eggs, vanilla extract, chocolate, and nuts. Stir until the chocolate is fully melted and the ingredients are combined (the batter should be very thick). Alternatively, you can mix the batter in a heavy-duty mixer. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top with an offset spatula.
Bake until set, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool. Cut into pieces and serve. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Makes about 30
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg, at room temperature
8 ounces best-quality semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 ounces best-quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped
4 ounces best-quality milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 cups chopped pecans
30 perfect pecan halves, for decoration
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet or parchment paper. In a bowl, whisk together the flour and baking soda. Set aside.
In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar and cream on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the salt, vanilla extract, and egg and stir to combine.
Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix on low speed until just combined. Add the semisweet, white, and milk chocolates and chopped pecans.
Make balls of dough using a 1-ounce ice cream scoop or with your hands shape the dough into balls about the size of a gumball; place 6 dough balls on the prepared baking sheet, about 3 inches apart. Using the palm of your hand, flatten each cookie slightly. Press a pecan half into the center of each.
Bake until the cookies are just brown around the edges, 13 to 14 minutes. Using an offset spatula, transfer the cookies to a rack to cool. Repeat with the remaining cookie dough and pecan halves.
Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 1 week. (Don’t worry, they won’t last that long!)
Serves 4 to 6
2 pints fresh ripe strawberries, washed, hulled, and quartered, and/or blueberries or blackberries
6 tablespoons sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
Pinch of fine sea salt
6 egg yolks
1 cup sweet Marsala or port
Place the berries in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the lemon juice, and salt. Stir to combine. Set aside.
In a large, stainless steel bowl, whisk to blend the egg yolks, the Marsala, and the remaining 5 tablespoons of sugar. Rest the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water to create a double boiler (a standard double boiler is too small). Using a whisk or a handheld mixer (trust me, you’ll prefer the latter, if you have one), whisk constantly until it has the consistency of lightly whipped cream and is thick, foamy, and tripled in volume, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Divide the berries among serving bowls or glasses and top with a spoonful of sabayon. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the ramekins
½ cup sugar, plus more for the ramekins
1⅓ cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
4 large eggs, separated
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Fine sea salt
Vanilla ice cream, for accompaniment
Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Generously butter four 8-ounce or six 5-ounce soufflé ramekins. Put a couple of tablespoons of the sugar inside one ramekin and toss to coat, then tip the excess sugar into the next, and repeat until all the ramekins are sugar-coated. Place the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a large saucepan, add the milk and the vanilla bean and heat just to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat, cover, and set aside to let the vanilla bean infuse for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and rinse and reserve for another use.
To make the pastry cream, in a bowl, whisk ¼ cup of the sugar with the egg yolks until thick and light, about 1 minute. Whisk in the flour, cornstarch, and a pinch of salt. Add a little of the warm infused milk and whisk to combine. Add the remaining milk. Return the egg mixture to the saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, 45 to 60 seconds; it will be lumpy. Remove it from the heat and whisk until smooth. Set aside.
To beat the egg whites, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt on medium speed until foamy. Increase the speed to high and beat until the whites begin to form soft peaks. Slowly add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, beating until the whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks, 1 to 2 minutes.
Add about a quarter of the beaten egg whites to the pastry cream mixture and stir until well mixed. Pour this mixture over the remaining whites and fold them together as lightly as possible.
To assemble the soufflés, spoon the mixture into the prepared soufflé ramekins (the mixture should come up to the top). Smooth the tops with a metal spatula. Run your thumb around the inside of the rim of each dish, making a shallow channel around the edge of the batter. (This will help the soufflés rise up straight and tall.) Set the filled soufflé ramekins on the rimmed baking sheet.
Bake the soufflés until risen and just set, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. With two forks, pull open the center of each soufflé. Place a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the opening. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately.
Serves 6
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the ramekins
2 to 3 peaches, peeled and sliced (about 2 cups)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
7 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¾ cup granulated sugar
Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling
Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Generously butter six 8-ounce ramekins. Set aside on a rimmed baking sheet.
In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulse the peaches until coarsely chopped. (The pieces should be no larger than ¼ inch.) Remove ¾ cup of the chopped peaches and place 2 tablespoons of them in each of the prepared ramekins. Set aside.
Add the lemon juice, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt to the remaining chopped peaches in the bowl of the food processor. Process until very smooth and pureed. Transfer 1 cup of the peach puree to a bowl, discarding any remainder or reserve for another use, such as an ice cream topping or base for a smoothie. Set aside.
In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites with a pinch of the salt on medium speed until foamy. Add about 1 tablespoon of the granulated sugar and beat on high speed until the whites hold soft peaks, 1 to 2 minutes. Slowly add the remaining granulated sugar and beat on high speed until the whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks when the whisk is lifted.
Add about a quarter of the beaten egg whites to the peach puree mixture and stir until well mixed. Pour this mixture over the remaining whites and fold them together as lightly as possible.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared soufflé ramekins (the mixture should come up to the top of each). Smooth the top with a metal spatula. Run your thumb around the inside rim of each dish, making a shallow channel around the edge of the batter. (This will help the soufflés rise up straight and tall.) Set the filled soufflé ramekins on the rimmed baking sheet.
Bake until puffed, golden, and gently set in the center, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar, and serve immediately.
