You want your horse to be a willing partner, coming to meet you when you catch him.
The horse is an intelligent, sensitive animal with great athletic ability. Part of our fascination with him comes from the realization that he’s a wild animal that has been domesticated. When a good horseman or horsewoman works closely with a well-trained horse, there’s practically no limit to what they can accomplish as a team. To develop that unity, or to handle any horse safely, we must understand how horses think and react. The horse owner must be mentally in tune with the horse.
Horses have better memories than humans, but they don’t think the way we do, and often people make the mistake of assuming they do. The horse is a prey animal. Most of his natural reactions are geared toward flight unless he’s at ease with the situation at hand. When he feels alarmed, he becomes nervous and ready to flee. He has a strong herd instinct; he’s happiest and feels most secure with other horses.
Horses are most at ease when their human handlers act like the dominant herd member (boss horse) without being too aggressive or submissive. As a herd animal, the horse is accustomed to being bossy or bossed. It comes naturally to him to submit to a more dominant individual, so this is the role the horse owner must take when handling the horse. The extremes in horse handling methods are force and bribery. Force may make an aggressive horse resentful, always fighting back, or a timid horse more afraid. Bribery will quickly spoil a horse; he soon learns that he (not you) is in control. The most effective handling methods fall in between, with the horseman taking an assertive leadership role in tune with that particular horse’s ability and nature.
The horse in nature is a member of a group. Most horses become frantic, lonely, or neurotic with no herdmates. Although some adjust more readily to an isolated existence, the lone horse is in a situation contrary to his natural instincts; his attitude is healthier if he has some company — even a goat or a cow or some other animal if there are no other horses nearby.
There is a direct relationship between temperament (a horse’s emotional characteristics — whether he is bold, calm, easygoing, timid, or insecure) and ease of handling. A horse who is readily upset or distracted can be more challenging to handle than a calm one.
When handling horses, it’s important to work with their temperament, making sure bold ones don’t try to dominate you, lazy ones don’t cheat and try to avoid doing what they are supposed to do, and timid ones don’t become more afraid and skittish. Use good judgment and keep the horse’s individual personality in mind when catching, leading, handling feet, and so on, and your horse handling will go a lot more smoothly.
Cultivate the horse’s respect and cooperation so he knows what to expect. If you use consistency and quiet confidence in all your actions, transmitting a message of benevolent dominance, the horse feels more secure and trusting than he would if handled by a nervous, inconsistent, timid, or angry person.
Working with a horse is much easier if you are tuned in to what he is doing and thinking. He should also be comfortable with signals he picks up from you. Remember that you control and communicate not only by means of physical cues and actions but also with your mind. This type of control over a horse comes with familiarity (knowing the horse well) and your understanding of one another, gained through working together — the horse knowing what you want and being conditioned (through proper handling and training) to obey you. He senses your relaxed but dominant attitude rather than fear, anger, or nervousness. He respects you as the dominant one (boss horse); it’s part of the relationship you develop with him as you work together and you handle him daily. He can read what you are thinking by your body language and the way you act. Giving mixed signals — acting aggressively even though you are nervous or afraid of the horse, for example — will make a horse very nervous and untrusting.
Horses can read a person well. They sense changes in physical or emotional tension that tell them a person is frightened, nervous, or angry. Indeed, they can sense our mood and feelings no matter how much we try to disguise them. Animals have the ability to communicate with each other through a combination of body language and empathy, and they are able to apply this to human beings to the extent that they can read us like a book.
You must truly be at ease in your relationship. Even if you go through the motions of being the dominant member of the team in your words and actions, if in your mind you are afraid of the horse, he can sense it. Your fear will overshadow your actions and will make him more nervous or more aggressive.
The best way to get a nervous horse to relax and cooperate is to be relaxed yourself, both mentally and physically. If you are tense and nervous, the horse also becomes agitated, and because he thinks that whatever is alarming you is also potentially dangerous to him, he may become very upset.
A combination of body language and confident attitude gives you dominance over the horse and puts you in the position of boss and teacher, enabling the horse also to be at ease in the relationship — not feeling the need to aggressively disobey you through lack of respect or being unduly afraid of you. If you have confident dominance over him, the horse will respect and trust you, accepting you as boss. You will rarely have to resort to a loud voice, punishment, or any physical contest of strength while handling him.
The sound and tone of your voice are important. An approving voice can be a powerful reward or positive reinforcement for good behavior. A disapproving tone is often punishment enough for bad behavior; the horse realizes you are displeased with him. Horses don’t have to fear us to submit to our wishes; punishment and reward by use of body language, voice, and attitude are enough when there is good communication in your working relationship.
If a physical reprimand is needed, it should be instant and appropriate. The horse may need just a jerk on the halter rope or a tap with a whip (to remind an overeager individual not to drag you along too fast, or to punish an act of bad manners). For example, if the horse is trying to charge forward too fast, a tap on the chest with the butt of a whip can remind him to slow down. Or, a rap on the leg when he shoves into you and steps on your foot can remind him to stay back and not invade your personal space. One short application is enough. Most horses understand one swat — after all, in the herd situation one bite or a single kick is adequate to keep a member in line. They don’t understand beatings or continual punishment.
Any punishment should be of short duration, immediate, and forceful enough to fit the circumstance. The psychological aspect (realizing he has stepped out of bounds and offended the dominant member of the team) is more effective than physical discomfort or pain, although the punishment should be sufficient to effect a change in the particular horse’s behavior. For some, vocal disapproval is enough. For others, especially bold or highly aggressive individuals that test your authority, a sharp smack (on the body, never the head) may be necessary. If the horse is testing your dominance, as he might do in a herd situation trying to work up to being boss horse himself, you must remind him that you are still on top of the pecking order.
The horse is a large, strong animal. If he becomes upset or frightened, or moves suddenly, the person handling him may be injured if she is in the wrong place at the wrong time. Most accidents can be prevented if you make a practice of handling yourself and the horse in such a way that there’s less chance of unexpected trouble. If safety is foremost in your mind and you are thinking ahead, prepared for anything the horse might do, you are less likely to be hurt.
An important factor in minimizing accidents is having a good working manner and quiet confidence — being firm but gentle. Then the horse is less apt to try you out (if he’s bold) or be afraid and flighty (if he’s timid). You want him to relax and trust you. A nervous horse who is uneasy about the way you handle him is more likely to become unmanageable than one who feels secure with you.
Handling horses safely is a matter of awareness (being tuned in to what the horse is doing and thinking, being prepared for what he might do next) and body position. You dominate a horse through confident attitude and body position. This type of mental control comes with understanding one another. The horse must know what you want and be conditioned to obey; he knows that “whoa” means stop and stand still, that he must accept restraint by the halter, and that he must behave when you pick up his foot.
The horse is stronger than you are, but through training and your confident attitude, he accepts your dominance. If, however, he becomes momentarily frightened or upset, or worried about the pain you or the veterinarian may cause when he must be vaccinated or treated, he may forget his manners. At those times, you must be able to calm and restrain him and keep from being hurt by him, even though you are not as strong as he is. You can use body position and leverage (and physical contact with the horse) to your best advantage to keep him under control and avoid being kicked, bumped, or injured.
Always keep in mind that the horse’s instinct is to protect himself from danger — to run away, strike, or kick to defend himself. The veterinarian’s needle, a medication spray, or any procedure the horse isn’t accustomed to may provoke a defensive response that is dangerous to people handling him. Be prepared for evasive or defensive actions. Handle the horse in a way that will minimize or prevent these actions and position yourself to reduce the risk of him harming you.
At times, you must hold a horse for the farrier or the veterinarian for treating wounds, vaccinating, and so on. The person holding the horse can make a difference in whether the procedure is successful, difficult, or dangerous. Keeping the horse from moving at the wrong time and keeping him calm or preventing him from kicking can be crucial.
Use a properly fitted halter. With some horses, a bridle may be necessary for more control. Some need a chain over the nose to keep them restrained (or even a twitch or lip chain — see here), but if a chain is used, it should not cause pain or annoyance. Otherwise, the horse may become more unmanageable, fighting the restraint as well as the procedure being done. If you use a chain, never allow your fingers to get accidentally wrapped in it.
Always choose a safe place to hold the horse. Sometimes an open area is best, with no obstacles to bump if he moves around. If he must be still, hold him next to a stall wall or solid fence, never next to a wire fence. If he usually tries to rush backward when confronted with something he doesn’t like, plan in advance to back him against a fence or wall so he can’t use this tactic. For most procedures, if there is a solid fence or wall on one side and the handler and person working on him are both on the other side, the horse will stand still.
When holding a horse, don’t stand in front of him. If you’re at his shoulder you’ll be out of the way if he lunges forward or strikes out with a front foot. Stand facing his shoulder with one hand on the halter and the other on his neck or withers, with feet positioned so you can move when he moves and you won’t be stepped on or jumped into. Body contact is crucial. If you are braced against him, you can move with him rather than being bumped. Holding the halter, facing his shoulder, you can read his expression and intentions.
With your other hand, rub his neck or withers to help calm and distract him. Often, a soothing voice, soft whistling, and rhythmic rubbing will help keep his mind off the procedure, and he’ll tolerate the situation instead of fighting it.
When holding a horse for the farrier or veterinarian, it’s best to stand on the same side as the person treating the horse, with one hand on the halter and one on the horse’s neck or shoulder, ready to move if he does.
Maintain proper contact with the horse’s head to gain leverage over his entire body and his movements. This is important for the person at the halter, who should be tuned in to the horse’s state of mind and possible reactions to prevent movement at a crucial time or keep the horse from kicking. Raising the head or pulling it toward you at the right moment can make it awkward for the horse to kick the person who is working on him. If the halter is too loose, hold it snugly under the horse’s chin (keeping the loose part together) so your hand has contact with his jaw while holding the halter. The more contact you have with him, the better control you have and the less chance there is for him to bump you.
When leading, walk beside the horse’s left shoulder, holding the halter rope or lead shank a few inches from the halter or grasping the halter itself if more precise control is needed. This will afford the best control over his movements.
Always have a rope or lead shank attached to the halter; never try to lead a horse with just a halter. The rope should be at least 6 feet (2 m) long, preferably 8 feet (2.5 m). If you use a lead rope, the horse is less able to pull away, hurt your arm, or dislocate your shoulder should he jump, rear, or turn quickly. With a rope attached, you can play him like a fisher plays a fish; he cannot jerk you as hard as if you were hanging on to the halter alone. Never wrap the end of the rope around your hand. Keep extra length in neat loops, not a coil that might get caught around your hand or arm if he bolts.
When leading a bridled horse with loop reins, take the reins down over the head. If the reins are still up on the neck and he balks, backs up, or bolts, you have no control and they only make the problem worse because one side will be pulling at his mouth.
Don’t walk in front of a horse you are leading. If he spooks and leaps forward, he’ll bump into you or step on your heels. You have no control of his movements if you are in front of him. When you walk beside his shoulder, you move with him and have control over his head and all his actions. You can keep him going at the speed you wish and halt him when necessary. If he tries to go too fast or bolt, you can use body leverage to halt or slow him by leaning into his shoulder and pulling his head around so he has to circle. When you have this kind of contact and body leverage, you can be as strong as he is, making him pivot around you so he can’t bolt forward. Having your arm or body against his shoulder gives you more control than just holding him by the halter.
Proper position when leading a horse: walk beside his left shoulder, holding the lead rope close to the halter in your right hand, with the extra length of rope looped (not coiled) in your left hand.
Use body leverage to your advantage when leading an overeager horse. Keep your hand close to the halter and your arm braced against his neck when necessary. With your body against his, you are strong enough to spin him around and make him circle if he tries to bolt.
When tying, always keep safety in mind; an improperly tied horse can be potentially dangerous.
Use strong halters and ropes. Nylon web halters should be at least three-ply with sturdy hardware. Remember that a halter rope is only as strong as its snap. It’s often best to have a rope permanently braided onto the halter ring or tied with a secure knot rather than depending on a snap to hold if a horse sets back. If you don’t leave halters on horses (and you shouldn’t — it’s a dangerous practice because a horse may catch the halter on something in his pen or pasture), you don’t need a snap-on lead rope and can keep your ropes securely and permanently fastened to the halter. Make sure all equipment is in good repair.
Always tie to something solid. Careless tying, use of a flimsy rope or halter, and tying with bridle reins or to an insecure object invite disaster. If a horse sets back (as even a well-trained one will do if suddenly startled) and breaks the rope or bridle reins, he could fall over backward, pull the top pole or board off a fence, or bolt down the road dragging whatever he was tied to. If this happens, he may seriously injure himself, people, or other horses. It may also be such a traumatic experience that he can never be dependably tied up again.
Never tie to a wire fence. The horse can get a foot caught if he paws. Tie to the post itself or to a pole or board only if it is nailed to the other side of the post and cannot be pulled off. When tying, don’t leave so much length of rope that the horse might get a foot over it. Tie short, but with enough rope to give some freedom of head and neck movement, and level with his head or higher. Then if he pulls back it won’t damage his neck muscles as readily as it would if he were tied too low.
When tying to a tree, make sure the rope won’t slip down the trunk. Choose a tree with no branch ends that might injure his head or eyes, or tie to an overhead branch. When tying to a horse trailer, be sure the trailer is attached to the pulling vehicle or securely blocked so the wheels can’t move. When tying near other horses, keep the horses far enough apart so they can’t kick at each other. Never tie with bridle reins; this is a sure way to end up with broken reins or an injured mouth.
When handling a foot, the more body contact you have with the horse, the better. Not only are you braced against him for holding the leg, but you can also sense his mood (tense or relaxed) and anticipate any movement he might make. (See chapter 4 for more information.)
To pick up a front foot, stand at the shoulder, facing to the rear, and slide your hand down the leg. Press your fingers just above the horse’s fetlock joint. If he doesn’t immediately pick up the foot, press a little harder in the area just in front of the back tendon — the indentation between tendon and cannon bone. If necessary, lean into his shoulder at the same time to encourage him to shift weight off that leg and pick up the foot. Pinching just in front of the back tendon generally makes even the stubborn horse pick up his foot and is easier than trying to wrestle with him.
To pick up a hind foot, stand next to his hindquarters, facing to the rear, and run one hand down the leg while you lean against the horse with your other hand to encourage him to shift his weight and pick up that foot. If he does not want to pick it up, you can pinch the back tendon gently.
When holding a front foot to clean, trim, or doctor, be sure to keep your upper arm or shoulder in contact with the horse’s side. This affords more leverage if you have to lean against him and hold tightly to the foot to keep him from pulling it away. When holding a hind foot, try to keep almost the entire hind leg in contact with your own leg. If the horse tries to jerk his hind foot away, firmly bend the foot by pulling the toe up toward you. This makes it harder for him to pull it away and kick you.
Sometimes a horse fidgets or kicks so much that certain tasks become awkward or impossible to complete. In many instances, holding up a front leg can minimize these actions and immobilize him. The safest way to do this is with another person holding the horse. On the side from which you don’t want the horse’s hind foot to kick, pick up the front leg. Hold up the leg with one hand, with maximum contact and leverage, and brace yourself against the horse’s shoulder with the other. Be prepared to move with him in case he tries to lunge and rear. Don’t be in a position where you could get bumped or hit by the leg.
Body contact with a horse not only gives better leverage for holding or working on him but also enables you to tell whether he is relaxed or tensing up for sudden action. In addition, close contact and confidence on your part — being relaxed and having a matter-of-fact attitude — help the horse to be more relaxed and secure. Because he knows where you are and what you are doing, he is less apt to be jumpy or try to kick. This is especially important when giving injections or treating a wound. Sudden contact from a needle or medication spray, for example, may startle or alarm him. If you are touching him in that area and reassuring him and he’s aware of and tolerating your presence, you can usually accomplish the procedure without much reaction on his part.
There are several ways to restrain a horse if he does not want to submit to a particular procedure. Extreme measures involve the use of ropes (scotch hobbles or sidelining — tying the hind leg to the front leg) to keep the horse from kicking, or tranquilizers. The average horse person should not try these; improper use of ropes and hobbles can put you and the horse at risk for injury, and tranquilizers can be hazardous if used improperly and should be given only by a veterinarian. It’s better to rely on other methods, if possible. Should these fail, seek the help of a professional or a veterinarian.
Cross-ties are two ropes with snaps that secure the horse in the middle of an open space; the ropes are snapped to each side of the halter. This approach is often used in a box stall or barn aisle. If the horse is accustomed to being cross-tied, this is often adequate restraint. He is held from both directions but with open space on each side for you to work in. The restraint of the ropes limits his movements so he can’t crash you or himself into a fence or wall.
Cross-ties help to keep a horse from moving around while you are working with him.
For some horses, a chain over the nose gives better restraint than a halter. Whereas they root and pull and misbehave with just a halter, the chain over the nose gives more pressure when you need to remind horses to stand still. In some cases, the chain works better through the mouth (like a bit) rather than over the nose. The halter rope or lead strap has a short length of chain at the snap end to put over the nose or through the mouth, if needed. When using a chain, be careful not to get your fingers wrapped in it.
Some people prefer to put the chain under the upper lip and over the gum. This works well for some horses but not others. The lip chain is effective in making a fractious horse behave and stand because it utilizes pressure points that stimulate release of endorphins. If properly used, without jerking it too hard, it does not hurt the horse. However, it can be a severe restraint that injures the tender gum and upper lip if the horse rears and plunges. A piece of hay twine or small rope or heavy cord works as well as a chain and is less likely to be abrasive to the tender gums.
The traditional twitch is made from a length of wooden handle 15 to 30 inches (38–76 cm) long, with a loop of rope or chain attached to one end. Newer metal versions clamp onto the upper lip and are snapped to the halter. This enables the horse handler to have both hands free to work on the horse after adjusting the twitch if there is no one to help. The disadvantage of this “one person” design is that if the clamp twitch loosens and the lip comes free, the horse is no longer under control and is left with the tool dangling from his halter. If it’s too tight and he breaks away, he may start running blindly to try to escape the clamp stuck on his upper lip.
A traditional twitch has a wood handle and a loop of chain or rope that is twisted around the horse’s upper lip.
A metal twitch like this one clamps onto the horse’s upper lip and is snapped to the halter.
Some horses will not tolerate a twitch. Others, such as foals or young horses, should never be twitched in the first place. A youngster who has not had a lot of handling may react with fright and resent any further handling of the mouth. The best candidates for twitching are emotionally stable adult horses who are accustomed to human contact; these animals are basically trusting and tractable and don’t mind having a person handle the upper lip.
Twitching increases the horse’s ability to handle pain by stimulating receptors in the skin that activate a pain-decreasing, morphine-like substance that causes heart rate to decrease and sensations of pain to be reduced. These substances, called endorphins, also make the horse calmer. After application of the twitch, he becomes quieter and appears somewhat sedated, with drooping eyelids. He stands as if in a trance, with greater tolerance for pain and discomfort. A lip chain works in the same way. A twitch relaxes a horse quickly and easily and only temporarily, but you can usually keep the horse twitched for up to 10 or 15 minutes with no after-effects. As soon as you release the twitch or lip chain, he’s back to normal. There’s no waiting for the effects of a sedative or tranquilizer to wear off.
If done correctly, twitching is not resented by most horses and won’t make them head shy. The twitch should never be painfully tight, just enough to put a little pressure on the upper lip. When the procedure is finished you should release the twitch slowly and gently massage the upper lip. Then there are no bad memories for next time.
To put a twitch on a horse, hold on to the handle with one hand and place your other hand through the loop. With that hand take hold of the horse’s upper lip, then gently slide the chain or thong over your hand and around the lip. Next twist the handle until the loop tightens around the lip. It must be tight enough to put pressure on the tissues, but not so tight that it causes pain. You may have to tighten it more during the procedure being done if the horse is not “sedated” enough, or release a little pressure if it’s too tight. The first time you try to twitch a horse, it’s best to do it under the direction of an experienced person.
Hand Twitching. A horse who tolerates a twitch can often be “hand twitched” by gently grasping his nose and squeezing. This can make him stand still and calm for a few minutes, rather than fighting the procedure being done to him.
A more recent tool for restraining horses, the Stableizer (see picture, below) is a modern adaptation of the Native American war bridle but is more effective, humane, and versatile, often working better than a twitch, lip chain, or tranquilizer. One person can put the device on a horse, and it stays in place. The Stableizer relaxes and sedates the horse, yet the horse can still move and be led while wearing it, which is not the case with a twitch.
When tightened by pulling the cord handle, the Stableizer stimulates pressure points behind the ears and beneath the lip, releasing painkilling endorphins and blocking adrenaline, causing the horse to relax and feel good. The Stableizer can be set at any pressure with the quick-release button.
In extreme cases, when a horse is already in pain from serious injury or colic, or in an unstable emotional state, a chemical restraint such as a sedative or tranquilizer given by your veterinarian may be necessary to safely handle the horse for examination or treatment. Twitches, lip chains, Stableizers, or hobbles are not adequate in these instances.
Some horses develop bad habits if they are allowed to get away with misbehaving, and they may become dangerous to work with. A young horse just learning how to interact with people should never be allowed to continue bad behavior or he’ll grow up spoiled and unruly, and an older spoiled horse should be reprimanded and retrained or he will think he can always do as he pleases. Some horses have bad habits because of improper handling in their formative years, or a bossy attitude that was not curtailed by a previous owner. As the old saying goes, “There are no problem horses; just problem people.” A horse’s habits and manners are a product of his reaction to people and the way he’s been handled.
Pushy horses readily take advantage of a timid or softhearted person who allows them to do as they please instead of handling them with consistent firmness. Bold horses spoil easily if they feel they can have their own way in the relationship. Regardless of the horse’s temperament, aggressive behaviors such as biting, kicking, rearing, walking on you instead of respecting your space, or rushing backward are not only annoying but dangerous.
If you have a horse who bites, try to figure out why he bites. His biting may be a defensive action if he thinks you are a threat or if you cause him pain. He may also bite in playfulness, since this is how he interacts with other herd members. Alternatively, the biting may be an aggressive action if the horse is trying to establish dominance, not being content to accept you as boss. Within the herd, the horse uses his teeth to reprimand other horses, establish dominance, and attack intruders. Some nervous horses bite when frustrated or bored; confinement may lead to irritability, and they take out their frustrations on the person who comes to handle them.
Halt nipping so it won’t become a serious problem. With a young playful horse, the solution is to teach him to respect you; make it clear that you are dominant and must be obeyed. The biter needs firm discipline every time he tries, just as he would get in the herd from a more dominant horse.
Be constantly alert to his intended actions so you can prevent them or reprimand him instantly. All disciplinary action, especially for biting, should be given as the act is happening or about to happen, not afterward. Otherwise, it may become a game for him — trying to sneak in a nip, then jerking his head away before you can bump him. If you bump him on the nose after he nips, he just jerks his head up and may become head shy or play games to see who is quicker.
If you can punish him before he nips, he’ll lose interest in this game. Position yourself so you can always prevent a nip by meeting him halfway. When grooming, bending over to clean a foot, saddling, and so on, have some body part or tool ready to bump him in the nose whenever he turns toward you to nip. Meet him with your hand or elbow or grooming tool. When you bump him in the nose, do it in a nonchalant manner so he thinks he’s bumping himself.
Don’t jab at him, reprimand him with your voice, make a fuss, or get angry. Stay casual so he thinks he’s doing it to himself. If you remain alert and catch him every time he tries to bite, this “self-punishment” will discourage him and he’ll quit; he’ll soon tire of initiating his own discomfort.
If a horse is a persistent biter, it may take more than bumping him in the nose with your elbow to discourage him. Use a nail or hoof pick — something he’ll pay attention to. You already know when he’s most liable to nip at you, so for his lesson, you can set him up, putting yourself in whatever position inspires him to take a bite. Then, you can catch him at it. Don’t jab; let him hit himself on the nose with your nail or hoof pick. Just be ready for him. After a few instances of self-punishment, he’ll stop.
Many kickers, especially those who kick when startled or upset, can be trained to stop this bad habit. Most horses who kick on occasion are just nervous or sensitive individuals who have not been fully acclimated to handling. They can usually learn to tolerate the situations that previously caused them to kick. A horse who kicks viciously with intent to hurt, however, needs handling by a professional trainer; you may prefer to sell him.
A kick toward a human being is generally an expression of nervous fear or self-defense: the horse is protecting himself from a perceived threat. Horses in groups also use kicking to keep subordinates in line or to express annoyance. Often when a dominant horse merely threatens to kick, the subordinates get out of his way.
When handling any horse, kicker or not, approach his head and work back to his hindquarters if you need to handle that end, touching his body all the way. Always work close to the horse, especially around his hindquarters, while touching him. A kick is less apt to hurt you if you’re close; he can only push you or bump you with his leg. If you are a little distance away, you’re more apt to get the full force of the kick, which can be powerful enough to cause serious injury.
Watch his ears and tail, not his feet, for signs of mood. Stand on the opposite side from the leg you’re working on, making the inner part of the leg easier to reach when applying medication, fly spray, or anything else that might prompt a kick. When handling a young horse, get him accustomed to having hind legs handled early on so he won’t be as defensive about his hindquarters. This makes future procedures easier.
A horse who tends to kick must be trained to stand still and trust his handler, learning that kicking doesn’t work and that what he earlier perceived as threats are not so terrible. He must become less touchy about having his hind legs brushed or bumped so that he’s less likely to kick when startled.
Stand at the horse’s shoulder and position him against a solid fence or wall so he cannot move away from you. Then use a folded cloth feed sack/gunny sack or old saddle blanket (something soft, with a familiar smell he won’t be afraid of) to rub along his back and over his hindquarters. Talk to him, praise him when he stays calm, and scold him if he tries to move or kick — but don’t yell at him.
One way to teach the horse to let you touch his hind legs — while staying out of kicking range — is to use a small “pole” 4 to 5 feet (1–1.5 m) long, like a broom handle. Old-time harness horse people used poling for getting “green” horses accustomed to the feel of shafts and harness before hitching them to a wagon the first time. Let the horse smell the broom handle. Then rub and touch him with it, over the sides and rump and along the flanks. Don’t raise it high or make any threatening movements. When he is relaxed about it, slide it down around his hind legs, then between his hind legs. It may take several sessions to convince him that having his hindquarters and legs touched is no big deal.
Have a helper hold a temperamental horse rather than tying him. Being tied by the head makes him feel more trapped. If a horse is tied, the post or fence may be a danger for you if he pulls back and then lunges forward, smashing you against it. You do not want him setting back when tied; you don’t want him to become a halter-puller.
A horse who sets back when tied is a danger to himself and to people around him. If he rushes backward while you’re still tying him, you could badly injure your hand or even lose a finger. The best cure is to tie the horse often as part of his daily routine, leaving him tied for an hour or two to something safe and solid, with a rope and halter he cannot break, until he accepts the restraint.
To avoid injury to neck muscles, and to teach the horse he cannot pull free, it helps to tie him to an inner tube securely fastened to a post; this has some give when he pulls back. You can also use a body rope around his girth so that his whole body feels much of the strain, not just his head and neck. Put the rope around his girth and tie it under his belly, then run the free end of the rope to a solid fence post that will hold him even if he sets back with all his strength. Always tie level with his head or a little higher; tying too low puts too much strain on his head and neck when he pulls back.
Another way to help prevent injury is to tie to something overhead, like a barn rafter; the horse can’t pull back enough to hurt his neck. Just give him enough slack that he can’t hang himself if he falls down, but not so much that he could get a foot over the rope pawing at it.
Solving this problem requires time and patience. Many horses never improve because their frustrated owners continue to chase and corner them, instead of beginning again with this aspect of handling.
One thing that helps is a reward system. Catch the horse and then give a treat as you groom and saddle him: a carrot or a few bites of grain, or some nibbles of green grass if the horse is on a diet of hay. Don’t take the reward with you to pen or pasture. Some horses play games and try to get a bite or two, yet still keep their freedom. The horse has to learn to go by the rules and be willingly caught in order to get his treat, either when you halter him or after you’ve led him from the pen or pasture.
The young, inexperienced horse may be hard to catch if he is timid or afraid, but this can be resolved with more handling and patience. Once you have gained his trust, he’ll allow himself to be caught. Weaning time is a good opportunity to gain his trust because he is missing his mother and must rely on you for food and companionship. Even the most independent and stubborn youngster will eventually come around to seeing things your way if you catch and handle him every day, making his experiences pleasant.
The confirmed spoiled horse can be a challenge because, to persuade him that being caught results in a reward, you first have to catch him. If you must run him around the pasture each time, you’ve defeated your purpose. You have to outsmart him, either by quietly, patiently walking him down rather than chasing or herding him, or using some of the tactics below, and he must decide he wants to be caught.
It usually helps to keep the horse in a small pasture or pen (small enough that he can’t really do much running) for a while until he gets used to being regularly and easily caught. Horses who run from habit rather than fear sometimes don’t bother to run if there’s no room. Putting a horse by himself can also help. Horses in a group may be hard to catch if one or two are elusive or habitual runners. Keep the problem horse by himself and catch him several times a day until he has been rehabilitated.
Catch him to take him to water, feed him, or give him a bite of grain or another treat, so he realizes that he is totally dependent on you and that catching is associated with good things. Catch him occasionally just to brush him and turn him loose again. When he finds that catching is the most pleasant event in his day, he’ll look forward to it instead of avoiding it. Feel your way with each problem horse, finding a way to work around his attitude and overcome it. The key to retraining the hard-to-catch horse is to spend enough time convincing him that being caught is just part of his daily routine, and a pleasant part, at that.
Some horses are frustrating to handle. They fidget when you try to groom them, step on your toes, bump into you, root and tug at the halter, drag you along when you lead them, or have no respect for your personal space. Often, these problems develop when you treat the horse as a pet or lack consistency in handling. The horse thinks of himself as the boss.
Good manners are crucial to control of the horse and to your safety. A horse who is disrespectful or inattentive can be very dangerous — whether he stomps on your toe or takes a parting shot at you with a hind foot as you turn him loose in his paddock.
Establish consistent rules for the horse so he can understand, in no uncertain terms, the allowable limits of behavior. He must learn that human beings have special status. You not only give the orders but must be respected at all times. He must understand that you are not to be touched without permission: never bumped — even by accident — or bitten, kicked, or tail-swatted. If you spoil a horse by allowing him to nuzzle, rub, play, or push, he will consider you an equal, a buddy to roughhouse with; this can lead to dangerous consequences because human beings are much more fragile than his herdmates.
Social ranking is an important aspect of herd life: who eats first, who leads, and who follows. Pecking order is a major element of horses’ interactions with each other and with people. Much of their behavior is based on dominance and submission, and the horse must figure out how human beings fit into that picture — who is higher on the pecking order and who must submit to whom. If a horse is successful at dominating people, he becomes aggressive and does what he pleases unless he comes up against a person who can set him straight.
One of the basic rules of behavior the horse must learn is to keep a respectful distance. Whenever he presses his limits or violates rules, don’t ignore it, even if it seems like an accident. Through your own body language, let him know you have a personal space that he must not violate.
Even the gentlest horse can be dangerous if he doesn’t respect your personal space. When handling any horse, make sure he knows where his place is. Allow him to be comfortable in it, but always make him uncomfortable if he pushes into your space. Let him run into your hand, the rope or lead strap, a stick or a whip; create an imaginary space around you (about 10 to 12 inches [25–30 cm]) that he is not allowed to penetrate.
Don’t let a horse rub on you, look for treats, or nibble your hand or clothing. Be especially firm and consistent with young horses still learning how to relate to people and experimenting with dominance. After all, little nippers grow up to be big biters. If you rub on a horse (some people like to rub the forehead), he will rub you back, just like he does with a herdmate, and become pushy. By doing this, you set yourself up to be challenged as to who will be dominant in the relationship. Stroking is fine; rubbing is risky unless the horse is older and well trained.
For the horse who wants to drag you around much faster than you want to go, or one who ignores your signals to halt, you may have to use a nose chain when leading. It is placed over the horse’s nose and works in much the same way a choke chain works on a dog. It doesn’t inhibit movement unless it is engaged by the horse (by going too fast) or the handler (by asking the horse to stop, with a short tug). For proper use, the chain must be attached to the halter correctly. Wrapping it around the nose band decreases its effectiveness.
When holding the lead line, grasp the end of the chain with your right hand where it meets the line, having the horse on a relaxed lead as you walk beside or just ahead of his shoulder at arm’s length. There’s no set rule for position because the size and neck length of each horse vary. Be somewhere behind his head and in front of his shoulder. If you’re ahead of his cheek, you’ll be dragging him; if you are behind the shoulder, he’ll be dragging you.
If he tries to bolt, you’ll be able to hold the line adequately if you have made a knot just in back of the place where the chain fastens into the nylon or lead rope. This makes the lead line jerk against the chain over the horse’s nose with the same effect of a choke chain on a dog. If the chain is properly adjusted on the halter, it presses into the bridge of his nose when he lugs into the halter or bolts forward, and it releases and loosens automatically when he stops. You can also engage the chain with one firm downward jerk if the horse misbehaves while being led. After the jerk, you should immediately give slack to release chain pressure. This jerk-and-release pattern is an effective form of discipline, much better than a futile tug-of-war.
A chain over the nose gives better restraint than just a halter if you need to remind a horse to stand still or to gain more control when leading him.
Some horses fidget around, stepping on you, bumping you, or even trying to smash you against the stall wall or fence when you try to groom them, saddle them, or do anything else while they are tied. Distinguish between behaviors triggered by discomfort or fear of abuse (from a prior bad experience) and deliberate bad manners. A horse who is jittery about some aspect of grooming or saddling needs patient, gentle handling to get him over his fears, but a horse who is trying to bully you needs firm and immediate discipline.
Usually when a horse is trying to get the best of you, he doesn’t show any indication of fear or alarm but is quite calm and purposeful, or even angrily aggressive if he’s used to bullying people and is waiting to see what you do about it. A deliberate show of bad manners should be punished with an immediate and firm verbal reprimand or an appropriate smack on the offending part of his body, delivered without anger. Use something other than your hand, such as a brush, hoof pick, or whatever you are holding; using your hand will probably hurt you more than the horse. If a horse steps on your foot, try stepping on his with your boot heel. After making your point go on about your business so the horse knows he hasn’t gotten the best of you, he cannot invade your personal space, and he must behave as you continue to groom or saddle him.
Horses who habitually bump into a person must learn to stay back or move back on command. Using the blunt end of a whip, you can tap the horse on the chest to make him back up or move over, rewarding him with praise when he responds properly. Anytime a horse steps uninvited into your space, react immediately to get him back where he belongs. It’s not enough to command him to halt; he must back up or move over. This makes him realize that he must submit to you and that you are in control, not him.
For the aggressive horse who tries to mash you into the wall, be prepared with a short, stout stick. Hold it so he runs into the stick instead of you. After a few instances of self-punishment, most horses learn it’s not pleasant to move into your space.
Some horses have bad manners when you take them out of a stall, put them at pasture, or turn them loose after working with them. People may unwittingly foster dangerous habits by letting the horse have his way. Often the person is unaware of his own negative influence, which may be mere inconsistency, timidity, lack of discipline, or inappropriate discipline.
If a horse has a habit of taking off the instant he is unhaltered at pasture, perhaps bucking and kicking, the handler may try to quickly unsnap the lead shank while hurrying through the gate, hoping the horse will continue on through and go a few steps more before starting obnoxious and dangerous behavior. This timid, undisciplined turnout approach leads to loss of control of the horse and even more trouble.
To help prevent shenanigans when handling high-spirited or aggressive horses, think ahead and stay in control. Always use a halter and lead shank when taking a horse to and from pasture or paddock, no matter how gentle or well-trained the horse or how short the distance. Lead only one horse at a time, pay attention, and convey a calm and confident attitude.
To thwart or prevent the “charge” at turnout time, make the horse stop and relax before you let him go. Loop the lead rope around his neck before unsnapping him or taking off the halter so he can’t go rushing off the instant he thinks he’s free. Keep him guessing. Make him realize you are still in control — that you are the one who will leave him, not the other way around. When he is calm and relaxed, you can quietly walk away. With persistence, you can correct the horse who tries to immediately gallop off.