CHAPTER 1 One-Bowl Bakes

“Our life is frittered away by detail. … Simplify, simplify.”

—Henry David Thoreau, Walden and Other Writings

Over the years, I have made many so-called snacking cakes, and while they were all delicious, not one was the cake I was searching for. By afternoon snacking cake, I don’t mean a single-layer chocolate or yellow cake smothered in frosting. I mean a moist, flavorful, straight-up cake with a crunchy, sugary top. A cake that doesn’t need icing, or fruit, or streusel but is perfect straight from the pan. A cake with a tender base and a delicate, but substantial, crumb. This cake doesn’t need anything extra, truly. I love it just warm to the touch with a steaming cup of coffee.

My Perfect Afternoon Snacking Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar, plus 3 tablespoons for sprinkling

¾ cup [168 g] olive oil

¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 tablespoon triple sec or other orange liqueur

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, 1½ cups [300 g] of the granulated sugar, the oil, buttermilk, eggs, zest, triple sec, vanilla, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the top of the cake evenly with the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar. 4) Bake for 24 to 32 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the top is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan. Cut into squares and serve just warm to the touch. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

This is a joyful little cake, bursting with color and flavor. My kids ask for this topped with strawberry buttercream, but I prefer raspberry, as it has a little more bite and balances the sweetness from the sprinkles. Both are delicious, however, and perfect for afternoon snacking.

Confetti Cakewith Berry Buttercream

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

Scant 1 cup [210 g] egg whites (from 6 or 7 large eggs), at room temperature

1 cup [240 g] milk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 278) or sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2¾ cups [391 g] all-purpose flour

¾ cup [115 g] sprinkles

1 recipe American Buttercream, raspberry variation (page 245)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, egg whites, milk, crème fraîche, oil, vanilla, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Add the sprinkles and mix again with the spatula until just combined. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan on the counter twice to get rid of any air bubbles.

4) Bake for 24 to 32 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling on the wire rack before icing. Top the cake evenly with the buttercream, decorate as desired, then slice into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

Back in my coffeehouse baking days, we often made a classic crumb cake to grace the bake case. It was a rich, dense cake layer topped with piles of streusel and dusted with confectioners’ sugar. I’ve kept the basic principles of that cake, but I add a little more salt to the crumb topping to help tame the sweetness. Confectioners’ sugar isn’t necessary on top but sure does look pretty.

Classic Crumb Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CRUMB TOPPING

2½ cups [355 g] all-purpose flour

1 cup [200 g] brown sugar

4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon salt

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

CAKE

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¾ cups [350 g] granulated sugar

Scant ¾ cup [175 g] egg whites (from 5 or 6 large eggs), at room temperature

¾ cup [180 g] sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)

1) FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until large clumps of streusel form. The topping can be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 1 week. 2) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, egg whites, sour cream, oil, vanilla, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the cake batter. Tap the pan on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles. 3) Bake for 35 to 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the streusel is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Transfer the cake in the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes.

4) Remove the cake from the pan using the parchment sling, then let cool until just warm to the touch. Before serving, dust the cake with confectioners’ sugar, if using. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

My children are the reason for this cake: Both prefer a plain, unfrosted, single-layer yellow cake over any other kind—their ideal after-school snack. And after tasting this cake, warm to the touch with just a simple dusting of confectioners’ sugar, I have to say that they make a very compelling argument (although I’m not ready to give up buttercream just yet).

Straight-Up Yellow Snacking Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¾ cups [350 g] granulated sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] sour cream, at room temperature

⅓ cup [75 g] vegetable or canola oil

½ cup [50 g] almond flour

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2¼ cups [320 g] all-purpose flour

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 10 in [25 cm] or 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, eggs, buttermilk, sour cream, oil, almond flour, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan gently on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles.

3) Bake for 42 to 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan, move to the wire rack, and then let cool completely. Dust the cake with confectioners’ sugar. Cut the cake into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

This little cake is bursting with flavor: The base is lemony with a scattering of poppy seeds, and the raspberry icing adds both a bright color and intense flavor. I find myself making this in February and early March, when it snows forever here in the North with no end in sight, and I’m looking for a sign of Aslan’s return. The pretty pink icing cheers the heart right up, and the burst of lemon awakens a hibernating soul.

Raspberry Poppy Seed Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

CAKE

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar

¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

3 large eggs, at room temperature

¼ cup [60 g] lemon juice

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon poppy seeds

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

RASPBERRY GLAZE

¼ cup [16 g] freeze-dried raspberry powder (see page 16)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

Pinch of salt

1½ cups [180 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 8 in [20 cm] or 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, buttermilk, eggs, lemon juice, oil, poppy seeds, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan gently on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles.

4) Bake until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, rotating the pan halfway through, 32 to 40 minutes. 5) FOR THE RASPBERRY GLAZE In a medium bowl, combine the freeze-dried raspberry powder, melted butter, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, and the salt. Add the confectioners’ sugar and use a spatula to combine, then whisk until smooth. Add more lemon juice, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the glaze is thick but pourable. 6) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 5 minutes. Pour the glaze over the warm cake and let sit until the glaze is set. Use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan, transfer it to the wire rack, and let cool completely. Cut the cake into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Upside-down cakes: What a glorious thing they are when they work! But, as I know from experience, turning over the hot pan onto a serving plate can lead to a capsize rather than a gentle flip. I’ve found lining the pan with parchment helps quite a bit, and berries can easily be pushed back into place if they don’t stay put during their journey. Cranberries and caramel are a good pair, as the tart balances out the sweet (sour cherries also work well).

Cranberry Caramel Upside-Down Cake

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] CAKE

CAKE

¾ cup [170 g] vegetable or canola oil

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

3 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] sour cream, at room temperature

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1½ teaspoons baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1¾ cups [250 g] all-purpose flour

CRANBERRY CARAMEL TOPPING

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

⅓ cup [65 g] brown sugar

Pinch of salt

3 cups [300 g] fresh cranberries

Confectioners’ sugar, optional

1) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] springform baking pan and line the bottom with parchment. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, granulated sugar, eggs, sour cream, lemon juice, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 3) FOR THE CRANBERRY CARAMEL TOPPING Place the butter in the prepared pan and place it in the oven until the butter melts, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully remove the pan and add the granulated and brown sugars and the salt, using a spatula to combine it into the butter. Place the pan back in the oven and let the mixture bake until the sugar has dissolved and is starting to bubble, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the oven and scatter the cranberries over the top of the sugar mixture. 4) Immediately pour the cake batter over the top of the cranberries, using an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan twice on the counter to help get rid of any air bubbles. 5) Return the pan to the oven and bake for 55 to 70 minutes, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 6) Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then carefully run an offset spatula or butter knife around the edges of the pan to gently loosen the cake from the sides. Remove the cake from the pan, then invert the cake onto a serving plate. Carefully remove the bottom of the pan and peel off the parchment paper. If any cranberries stick to the parchment, carefully place them back on the cake. Serve the cake just warm to the touch, with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar (if using). The cake is best eaten the same day it is made.

Readers often message me to let me know how they have tweaked my recipes, which sometimes involves baking them in different vessels than my recipe calls for. Muffin batter is one of these recipes that works well with this adaptation. I decided to play along and baked my favorite Blueberry Muffin recipe in a cake pan. Now, not only do I get to skip scrubbing out a muffin pan, but I also have a perfect way to sneak morning muffins into the afternoon hours. A healthy dusting of sugar and a grating of nutmeg on the top make this snacking cake perfection.

Blueberry Muffin Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [50 g] almond flour

⅓ cup [75 g] vegetable or canola oil

¼ cup [60 g] sour cream, at room temperature

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon lemon zest

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

6 oz [170 g] fresh or frozen blueberries, chopped into bite-size pieces

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, buttermilk, almond flour, oil, sour cream, eggs, lemon juice, baking powder, salt, vanilla, lemon zest, and baking soda until completely combined. Add the all-purpose flour and use a spatula to gently mix until almost combined. Fold in the blueberries until just incorporated, being careful not to overwork the batter. It should not be completely smooth; there should be some visible lumps and bumps. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with the back of a spoon or an offset spatula. Generously sprinkle granulated sugar evenly over the top of the batter. 4) Bake for 42 to 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the top of the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out with the slightest hint of crumb. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and sprinkle the nutmeg over the top of the cake. Let cool until just warm to the touch. Use the parchment sling to remove the cake, then cut into squares and serve. The cake is best eaten the same day it is made, but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

My love for banana bread is strong, and while I usually partake of it in loaf form, I’m rather smitten with this cake version, complete with cream cheese buttercream. This banana cake is perfectly moist, and the tang in the icing is a perfect complement. Topping this cake with Fudge Buttercream (page 256) would also be a good idea.

Banana Bread Bars

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter

1 cup [227 g] mashed, very ripe bananas (about 3 bananas)

½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

⅓ cup [80 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

¼ cup [60 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon baking soda

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

1 recipe Cream Cheese Buttercream (page 250)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan set over medium-high heat, brown the butter until golden (for tips on browning butter, see page 276). Whisk in the bananas, then follow with the granulated and brown sugars, buttermilk, oil, vanilla, and salt. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the eggs and whisk until completely combined. Add the baking soda and whisk again, then add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to smooth the top. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until the top of the cake is golden and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling before icing. Top the cake evenly with the buttercream, then slice into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

VARIATION

⦁ Banana Bread Cake with Streusel: After adding the batter to the pan, evenly sprinkle the top of the cake with 1½ cups [220 g] Pecan Streusel (page 287). Bake as directed. Omit the cream cheese buttercream.

Carrot cake was my go-to cake in college when I was trying to make a good impression; I made several for my husband while we were dating and brought one to every wedding shower I hosted. This version is a single-layer affair, but orange liqueur and maple cream cheese make this even more sophisticated and delicious than the classic two-layer cake. Add some piped meringue and a touch of gold leaf, and your afternoon is officially elevated.

Maple Orange Carrot Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

CAKE

⅔ cup [150 g] vegetable oil

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 tablespoon triple sec

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¾ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

Pinch of ground cloves

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

2 cups [200 g] finely grated carrots

MAPLE CREAM CHEESE ICING

2 oz [57 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup [80 g] maple syrup

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup [120 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, granulated and brown sugars, eggs, orange zest, triple sec, cinnamon, ginger, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cloves until completely combined. Add the flour, stirring with a spatula until just combined, then add the carrots, stirring until incorporated. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to smooth the top. 4) Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling before icing.

5) FOR THE MAPLE CREAM CHEESE ICING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese, butter, and salt on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes until smooth, creamy, and combined. Scrape down the bowl, add the maple syrup and vanilla, and mix again on low speed until completely combined. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and mix on low speed until combined and smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Top the cake evenly with the icing, then slice into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

VARIATION

Showstopper Carrot Cake: Add meringue to the top of the cake: Bake and frost the cake as directed, then chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Make the Meringue as directed on page 258, then, working quickly, place the meringue mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a ½ in [13 mm] plain tip. Pipe meringue kisses over the top of the buttercream.

“Because although Eating Honey was a very good thing to do, there was a moment just before you began to eat it which was better than when you were, but he didn’t know what it was called.” Winnie the Pooh was on to something with his honey obsession, and this cake will evoke the same simple pleasure. The honey gives the cake a subtle richness that is particularly tasty paired with sesame.

Honey Sesame Cake

MAKES • ONE 8 IN [20 CM] CAKE

½ cup [112 g] vegetable or canola oil

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [85 g] honey

2 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

¾ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1¼ cups [178 g] all-purpose flour

1 recipe Ganache (page 257)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] baking pan and line the bottom with parchment. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, granulated sugar, honey, eggs, buttermilk, vanilla, toasted sesame oil, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the flour and use a spatula to combine it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles.

4) Bake for 32 to 45 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then invert the cake onto a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Top the cake with the ganache and let cool to room temperature. Slice and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Although this doughnut cake is not actually fried, it does capture the flavors of an old-fashioned yeasted doughnut with the tangy flavor of buttermilk and crème fraîche, along with vanilla and a hefty sprinkling of cinnamon sugar. It’s afternoon comfort at its finest and hits the spot paired with coffee or tea.

Jam-Filled Doughnut Cake

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

TOPPING

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

CAKE

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 278) or sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

½ cup [112 g] raspberry or apricot jam

1) FOR THE TOPPING In a small bowl, combine the granulated sugar and cinnamon. Set aside. 2) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 3) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, buttermilk, crème fraîche, oil, eggs, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and mix with a rubber spatula until combined. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 4) Pour half of the batter into the prepared pan. Pour the jam on top and use the back of a spoon to evenly spread it across the batter. Top with the remaining batter and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to smooth the top. Sprinkle the topping over the batter. 5) Bake for 24 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling. Slice into squares and serve. Store the cake in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

This is my best yellow cake. I spent several years tinkering with the recipe, finally succeeding at creating a cake that is rich and moist and bakes up beautifully. I found the addition of almond flour to be the trick; it keeps the crumb tender over several days. In my original recipe I use the reverse creaming method to add the butter to the cake, but I found that using melted butter (and making this a one-bowl affair) also works great. Any of the other buttercreams in chapter 7 are tasty paired with this base, but the Fudge Buttercream, page 256, is a birthday classic.

Classic Birthday Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] sour cream, at room temperature

½ cup [50 g] almond flour

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons baking powder

1¼ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

2⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

1 recipe Fudge Buttercream (page 256)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, eggs, egg yolks, buttermilk, sour cream, almond flour, oil, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the all-purpose flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan on the counter twice to get rid of any air bubbles. 4) Bake for 32 to 40 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling before icing. Top the cake evenly with the buttercream, decorate as desired, then slice into squares and serve. Store the cake in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

This recipe was tested during my kids’ continuous Monty Python and the Holy Grail viewing phase, and I wonder if perhaps King Arthur’s empty clanging coconut shells pricked my subconscious, drawing me to these flavors. With coconut milk in both the cake and the icing, and a delicate speckling of chocolate chips, I am certain even the Black Knight would let me pass if I offered him a slice.

Coconut Chocolate Chip Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¾ cups [350 g] granulated sugar

Scant ¾ cup [175 g] egg whites (from 5 or 6 large eggs), at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] coconut milk, at room temperature

⅓ cup [80 g] sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 teaspoons coconut extract

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

2⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

¾ cup [128 g] mini semisweet chocolate chips

1 recipe Ermine Buttercream (page 246), coconut variation

Coconut flakes, for sprinkling

4) Bake for 24 to 32 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling before icing. Top the cake evenly with the buttercream, sprinkle with coconut flakes, then slice into squares and serve. Store the cake in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

“If we sip the wine, we find dreams coming upon us out of the imminent night,” D. H. Lawrence astutely observed, and I wonder if he’d feel the same if he snacked the wine instead of sipped. I certainly do. This cake boasts red wine flavor, along with a bit of chocolate. It’s delicious with cream cheese frosting, but you could also dust cocoa powder over the top for a simpler option. Either way, you’ll find it’s what sweet dreams are made of.

Chocolate Red Wine Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] red wine, preferably Merlot

½ cup [112 g] vegetable or canola oil

½ cup [50 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

2 teaspoons baking powder

1¼ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon baking soda

2⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

1 recipe Cream Cheese Buttercream (page 250)

4) Bake for 32 to 36 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with just a few crumbs stuck to it. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes in the pan, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake and let it finish cooling before icing. Top the cake evenly with the cream cheese buttercream, then slice into squares and serve. Store the cake in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

This cake is a riff on the recipe on the back of a can of Hershey’s cocoa (also called Black Magic Cake), famous for including one steaming hot cup of coffee poured into the batter right before baking. I have tweaked this variation to create a tender, moist chocolate cake coated in rich ganache. It has become our favorite family celebration cake, but would also serve well as a special afternoon treat. Bittersweet Chocolate Buttercream (page 254) is also delicious on this cake.

Double Chocolate Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

1 cup [200 g] brown sugar

⅔ cup [65 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

½ cup [112 g] vegetable or canola oil

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] sour cream, at room temperature

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

1¾ cups [250 g] all-purpose flour

¾ cup [180 g] strong, freshly brewed coffee, hot

1 recipe Ganache (page 257)

Chocolate curls, sprinkles, or chocolate pearls, for decorating

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the granulated and brown sugars, cocoa powder, oil, buttermilk, sour cream, eggs, egg yolks, baking soda, baking powder, vanilla, and salt until well combined. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir until just combined. Slowly pour the coffee into the batter and mix until just combined. 3) Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Tap the pan on the counter a few times to remove any air bubbles.

4) Bake for 28 to 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with the tiniest bit of crumb. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Turn the cake out onto the rack, remove the parchment paper, and let cool completely. Wrap the cake in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight. 5) Place the chilled cake on a wire rack set over a parchment-lined sheet pan. Starting in the center of the cake, pour the ganache in a steady stream and work your way out to the edge, making sure to completely cover the surface of the cake. Continue pouring over the edges, until the sides are also completely covered. Decorate with chocolate curls, sprinkles, or chocolate pearls as desired. Let the ganache set before slicing into squares and serving. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.