CHAPTER 7 Beginnings and Ends

”I have heard what the talkers were talking, the talk of the beginning and the end, But I do not talk of the beginning or the end.”

—Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

This is a basic vanilla Swiss meringue buttercream—with variations—that can be doubled for layer cakes.

Swiss Meringue Buttercream

MAKES • ABOUT 3 CUPS [720 G]

A few drops lemon juice

1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar

⅔ cup [150 g] egg whites (from 4 or 5 large eggs), at room temperature

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 cups [4 sticks or 455 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1) In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring 1 in [2.5 cm] of water to a gentle boil. 2) Pour the lemon juice into the bowl of a stand mixer and use a paper towel to wipe the juice around the inside of the bowl (this helps remove any trace of grease, which can hinder the whites from whipping properly). Add the granulated sugar, egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar and stir gently with a rubber spatula until completely combined. 3) Place the bowl over the saucepan, being careful not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir with the spatula for 4 to 5 minutes, until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture registers 160°F [70°C] on an instant-read thermometer, scraping down the sides of the bowl with the spatula (to ensure no sugar crystals are lurking, which can cook the egg whites). 4) Place the bowl in the stand mixer fitted with a whisk and whisk the egg whites on low speed for 1 minute. Slowly increase the speed to medium-high and beat for 8 to 10 minutes, until stiff peaks form. The bowl should feel cool to the touch at this point. 5) Lower the speed to low and, with the mixer running, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter at a time, beating well after each addition. When the butter has been completely incorporated, add the vanilla and beat on low speed until incorporated. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

NOTES The butter needs to be added slowly to help it emulsify correctly into the meringue. Butter should be soft but cool when added, 68°F to 70°F [20°C to 21°C]. At any point, the buttercream may look curdled and runny, but this is normal. Keep adding the rest of the butter, and the buttercream will eventually turn smooth. If the buttercream is runny after beating, it may be that your butter or egg whites are too warm. Place the mixer bowl in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes, stirring the buttercream every couple minutes. Then whisk again until smooth.

VARIATIONS

Raspberry, Strawberry, or Blueberry Buttercream: Add ½ cup [32 g] of sifted freeze-dried raspberry, strawberry, or blueberry powder to the egg white mixture. Add 2 tablespoons of raspberry, strawberry, or blueberry vodka along with the vanilla.
Brown Sugar Buttercream: Replace the granulated sugar in the recipe with brown sugar.

While I love a proper Swiss meringue buttercream, sometimes there isn’t enough time to make it. This faster version is a good substitute—buttery and creamy, without all the effort—and this recipe can be doubled or tripled.

American Buttercream

MAKES • ABOUT 2 CUPS [480 G]

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon corn syrup

1½ cups [180 g] confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter and salt on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the corn syrup, mixing on low speed until combined. Slowly add the confectioners’ sugar, a little at a time, mixing until combined and stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the vanilla and mix until smooth, then increase the speed to medium-low and mix for 6 to 8 minutes, until smooth, light, and creamy. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

VARIATIONS

Espresso Buttercream: Add 1 teaspoon of espresso grounds along with the salt. Add 2 tablespoons of room-temperature brewed espresso and 1 tablespoon of Kahlúa (optional) along with the vanilla.
Raspberry Buttercream: Add ⅓ cup [24 g] of sifted freeze-dried raspberry powder along with the salt. Add 2 tablespoons of raspberry vodka along with the vanilla.

This buttercream method is an old-school, boiled-flour, less-sweet-than-traditional frosting that I fell in love with years ago. The method lends itself particularly well to infusing flavors (see variations that follow).

Ermine Buttercream

MAKES • ABOUT 2 CUPS [480 G]

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [36 g] all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup [120 g] whole milk

½ cup [120 g] half-and-half

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Food coloring (optional)

1) In a medium bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, flour, and salt until fully combined (the sugar will help keep the flour from lumping when it boils, so spend a good minute really whisking it together). Transfer the mixture into a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan. Slowly pour the whole milk and half-and-half into the pan, whisking constantly to combine as you pour. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, just until the mixture comes to a gentle boil (periodically run a spatula round the edges of the saucepan to remove any flour lurking there). Lower the heat to medium-low and continue to whisk constantly and stir the edges occasionally for 2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture has thickened considerably. It should be glossy and leave streaks in the bottom of the pan when you drag a spatula through it. Remove from the heat and continue stirring for 30 seconds. 2) Transfer the mixture to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic sits directly on top of the cream (this will help keep it from forming a skin). Let cool to room temperature. 3) When the flour mixture has cooled, place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. Beat on medium speed until smooth and creamy, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Start adding the cooled flour mixture a few spoonfuls at a time, mixing on low speed after each addition, until it is all incorporated. Scrape down the sides and mix on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until the buttercream is light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and food coloring (if using) and mix on low speed until combined. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

VARIATIONS

⦁ Basil Buttercream: Combine the milk, half-and-half, and 1 cup [12 g] of basil leaves in a medium saucepan. Heat gently over medium heat until just simmering, then remove from the heat. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Strain the basil from the milk, squeezing all the liquid out of the leaves, then discard. Add the infused milk to the buttercream as directed in step 1.

⦁ Cardamom Buttercream: Combine the milk, half-and-half, and seeds from 10 black or green cardamom pods in a medium saucepan. Heat gently over medium heat until just simmering, then remove from the heat. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Strain the cardamom seeds from the milk and discard. Add the infused milk to the buttercream as directed in step 1.

⦁ Coconut Buttercream: Replace the ½ cup [120 g] of whole milk and ½ cup [120 g] of half-and-half with 1 cup [240 g] of coconut milk. Add 2 teaspoons of coconut extract along with the vanilla.

⦁ Green Tea or Coffee Buttercream: Combine the milk, half-and-half, and ½ cup [16 g] of green tea leaves (or two tea bags) or ½ cup [45 g] of whole coffee beans in a medium saucepan. Heat gently over medium heat until just simmering, then remove from the heat. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Strain the solids from the milk and discard. Add the infused milk to the buttercream as directed in step 1. For the coffee variation, add 1 teaspoon of finely ground espresso with the vanilla in step 3 (optional).

⦁ Malt Buttercream: Add ½ cup [54 g] of malt powder to the saucepan along with the granulated sugar.

⦁ Rosemary or Lavender Buttercream: Combine the milk, half-and-half, and 2 rosemary sprigs or 1 teaspoon of culinary lavender in a medium saucepan. Heat gently over medium heat until just simmering, then remove from the heat. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Strain the solids from the milk and discard. Add the infused milk to the buttercream as directed in step 1.

Inspired by Zoë François, who was inspired by Flo Braker, this buttercream is exactly as its name describes: ultra. Ultra-rich, ultra-buttery, and ultra-smooth, it is a dream to eat with any cake.

Ultra Buttercream

MAKES • ABOUT 3 CUPS [720 G]

5 large egg yolks, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [60 g] water

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the egg yolks on low speed. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly add ¼ cup [50 g] of the granulated sugar and increase the speed to medium. Beat the egg-sugar mixture for about 5 minutes, until very thick and pale yellow. 2) In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the remaining ¾ cup [150 g] of sugar, the water, and salt. Stir over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat until the temperature reaches 240°F [115°C], 4 to 5 minutes. 3) With the stand mixer running on low speed, carefully pour the hot syrup along the inside of the mixing bowl, being careful not to hit the whisk. When all the syrup is in the bowl, increase the speed to medium-high and continue whisking for 8 to 10 minutes, until the mixture has doubled in volume and is quite thick and glossy, and the sides of the bowl have cooled. Lower the speed to low and, with the mixer running, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter at a time, beating well after each addition. When the butter has been completely incorporated, add the vanilla. Beat on low speed until incorporated, then use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

VARIATION

Irish Cream Ultra Buttercream: After adding the vanilla, slowly add ¼ cup [60 g] of Irish cream to the buttercream as it is beating, and mix to combine.

This icing, with its subtle tang and balanced sweetness, is used in a variety of combinations throughout this book: with pumpkin spice, banana, sugar cookie, and of course red velvet. To make twice as much for a larger cake or pan of bars, simply double the recipe.

Cream Cheese Buttercream

MAKES • 2 OR 3 CUPS [480 OR 720 G], FOR AN 8 OR 9 IN [20 OR 23 CM] CAKE

4 oz [113 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅛ teaspoon salt

2 cups [240 g] confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese, butter, and salt on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth, creamy, and combined. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and mix on low speed until combined and smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

I adore this buttercream, and especially love it on top of the chocolate sheet cake (page 196). The tiny bit of lemon juice brightens the flavor of the peanut butter.

Peanut Butter Buttercream

MAKES • 3 CUPS [720 G]

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup [108 g] creamy peanut butter

¼ teaspoon salt

2 cups [240 g] confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon lemon juice

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter, peanut butter, and salt on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until light yellow and fluffy. Lower the speed to low and gradually add the confectioners’ sugar. Beat on medium speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary, for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth and creamy. Add the vanilla and lemon juice and mix on low speed until combined. Use a rubber spatula to mix the frosting a few more times, making sure it is completely combined. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

This buttercream is rich and creamy, with plenty of chocolate flavor.

Bittersweet Chocolate Buttercream

MAKES • 3 CUPS [720 G]

6 oz [170 g] bittersweet chocolate

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons corn syrup

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1½ cups [180 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring 1 in [2.5 cm] of water to a gentle boil. Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set it over the pan of boiling water, being careful not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir constantly until just melted, then set aside to cool slightly. 2) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter and salt on medium speed for about 3 minutes, until light yellow and fluffy. Add the corn syrup and vanilla and beat on medium speed until combined. Lower the speed to low and gradually add the confectioners’ sugar. Beat on medium speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary, for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth and creamy. Add the chocolate and mix on low speed until no streaks remain. Use a rubber spatula to mix the frosting a few more times, making sure it is completely combined. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature and then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

Perfectly fudgy and delicious on any cake, this thick, decadent spread works especially well on Classic Birthday Cake (page 52).

Fudge Buttercream

MAKES • ABOUT 4 CUPS [775 G] BUTTERCREAM

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅔ cup [65 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

2 tablespoons corn syrup

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

¼ cup [60 g] milk, at room temperature

¼ cup [60 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276), at room temperature

3 cups [360 g] confectioners’ sugar

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until creamy. Add the cocoa powder, corn syrup, vanilla, and salt and mix again on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until light and creamy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the milk and crème fraîche, and mix on low speed until combined. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, until combined. The more you mix, the lighter the frosting will get. Finish mixing with a spatula, making sure all the ingredients are evenly incorporated. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. When ready to use, let the buttercream come to room temperature, then beat again in the stand mixer until smooth.

Rich, delicious, and easy to make, ganache should be poured over everything.

Ganache

MAKES • 3 CUPS [700 G]

12 oz [340 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1½ cups [360 g] heavy cream

1) Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. Heat the heavy cream in a small saucepan until it is simmering and just about to boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let sit for 5 minutes.

2) Remove the plastic and whisk until completely smooth. Use as directed in the recipe. Ganache can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature and gently reheat on the stovetop to use.

VARIATION

⦁ Half-Sheet Pan Ganache: Use 1 lb [455 g] bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped, and 2 cups [480 g] heavy cream.

I grew up not liking meringue. My grandma topped her pretty pies with it constantly, but I found it sweet and bland and I avoided it at all costs. When I started making it myself, I became obsessed with the transformation of sugar and egg whites. Maybe it’s the Minnesotan in me, but I find the snowy piles in my mixing bowl beautiful. A bit of salt and a hefty splash of vanilla helps keep this from tasting flat and overly sugary. This recipe can be doubled.

Meringue

MAKES • 2 CUPS [240 G]

A few drops of lemon juice

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [113 g] egg whites (from 3 or 4 large eggs), at room temperature

Pinch of salt

⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1) In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring 1 in [2.5 cm] of water to a gentle boil. 2) Pour the lemon juice into the bowl of a stand mixer and use a paper towel to wipe the juice around the inside of the bowl (this helps remove any trace of grease, which can hinder the whites from whipping properly). Add the granulated sugar, egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar to the mixing bowl and stir gently with a rubber spatula until completely combined. 3) Place the bowl over the saucepan, being careful not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir with the spatula until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture registers 160°F [70°C] on an instant-read thermometer, scraping down the sides of the bowl with the spatula (to ensure no sugar crystals are lurking, which can cook the egg whites), 4 to 5 minutes. 4) Place the bowl in the stand mixer fitted with a whisk and whisk the egg whites on low speed for 1 minute, until foamy. Slowly increase the speed to medium-high and beat for 8 to 10 minutes until stiff, glossy peaks form. The bowl should feel cool to the touch at this point. Add the vanilla and mix on low speed until combined. 5) Use the meringue immediately. You can use the meringue unbaked to decorate at this point, or continue on with the recipe to make baked meringues.

VARIATIONS

Baked Meringues: Preheat the oven to 200°F [95°C]. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Working quickly, place the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a ½ in [13 mm] tip. Pipe 1½ in [4 cm] mounds about 1 in [2.5 cm] apart on the prepared sheet pans, for 5 rows of 5 meringues on each sheet. Bake for 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the meringues sit in the cooling oven for 1 hour more. Transfer the sheets to a wire rack and let the meringues cool completely. Store meringues in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Brown Sugar Meringue: Replace the 1 cup [200 g] of granulated sugar with 1 cup [200 g] of brown sugar.
Cacao Nib Meringue: Add ½ cup [60 g] of chopped cacao nibs to the meringues after adding the vanilla and use a spatula to combine.
Pavlova: To make the Pavlova (page 233), use a double recipe of the meringue. Add 2 tablespoons of cornstarch and 2 teaspoons of white vinegar to the meringue along with the vanilla.

I’ve been making this pie dough for many years; I love how flaky and rich it is. If your kitchen is especially warm, chill the dry ingredients for 10 minutes before moving to step 2.

Pie Dough

MAKES • 2 SLAB PIE CRUSTS

18 tablespoons [2¼ sticks or 255 g] unsalted butter, cut into 18 pieces

3 cups [420 g] all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup [240 g] ice water

1) Place the butter pieces in a small bowl and freeze for 5 to 10 minutes. 2) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix the flour, granulated sugar, and salt on low speed until combined. Add half of the chilled butter and mix on low speed until the butter is just starting to break down, about 1 minute. Add the rest of the butter and continue mixing until the butter is broken down in various sizes (some butter will be incorporated into the dough, some pieces will be a bit large, but most should be about the size of small peas). Stop the mixer and use your hands to check for any dry patches of flour on the bottom of the bowl; incorporate the flour as best you can. 3) With the mixer running on low speed, slowly add about ¼ cup [60 g] of the ice water and mix until the dough starts to come together but is still quite shaggy (if the dough is not coming together, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it does). 4) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and flatten it slightly into a square. Gather any loose/dry pieces that won’t stick to the dough and place them on top of the square. Gently fold the dough over onto itself and then flatten into a square again. Repeat this process three or four more times until all the loose pieces are worked into the dough, being careful not to overwork the dough. Flatten the dough one last time, form it into two 6 in [15 cm] discs, and wrap the dough in plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes (and up to 2 days) before using.

This is a simple, pat-in-the-pan crust that comes in handy for many applications.

Pat-in-the-Pan Pie Dough

MAKES • ONE 8 OR 9 IN [20 OR 23 CM] CRUST

1 cup [142 g] all-purpose flour

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [30 g] almond flour

½ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons [84 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream

1) In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade, pulse together the all-purpose flour, granulated sugar, almond flour, and salt until combined. Add the butter and crème fraîche and pulse until the dough starts to come together. (This dough is very forgiving, and you don’t have to worry quite as much about overworking it as you do a normal pie dough.) 2) To bake, press the dough in the called-for pan. For a square pan, press the dough into an even thickness across the bottom. Bake the crust for 20 to 25 minutes at 350°F [180°C], until the dough is no longer wet to the touch. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely.

3) For a pie pan, press the dough across the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Line the pan with parchment paper, covering the edges. Fill with pie weights, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the dough is no longer wet to the touch. Remove the weights and the parchment paper, and return the pan to the oven for 3 to 4 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. (Pie weights are used for this pan to help the sides from slipping down as they bake).

VARIATION

Pecan Dough: Replace the almond flour with toasted, ground pecans.

This crust is easy to handle and rich in flavor, with just enough tang to provide the perfect foil to Apple Cider Pie (page 118).

Crème Fraîche Dough

MAKES • ONE 8 OR 9 IN [20 OR 23 CM] CRUST

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, cold, cut into 16 pieces

¼ cup [60 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream

1) In a food processor fitted with a blade, combine the flour, granulated sugar, and salt. Add the butter and process for about 1 minute, until the butter breaks down and is incorporated into the dough. Add the crème fraîche and pulse until it is completely combined into the dough. Dump the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough over onto itself until it comes together.

2) Form the pieces into two 6 in [15 cm] disks, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before using.

This dough is inspired by many recipes, but specifically Dominique Ansel’s croissant MasterClass and Mandy Lee’s laminated dough in her book The Art of Escapism Cooking. Mandy skips using the butter in a block, instead spreading room temperature butter over the surface of the dough, and then proceeds with the folding. The results are amazingly flaky and delicious.

Cheater Croissant Dough

MAKES • ABOUT 2½ LB [1.1 KG]

1½ cups [360 g] warm water (100°F to 110°F [35°C to 42°C])

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon active dry yeast

4 cups plus 1 tablespoon [577 g] all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1½ cups [3 sticks or 339 g] European butter (preferably 83 to 84 percent butterfat), at room temperature (68°F [20°C])

1) Grease a large bowl and set aside. In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, stir together the water and yeast and let sit until the yeast has dissolved, about 5 minutes. 2) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, whisk together 4 cups [568 g] of the flour, the granulated sugar, and salt. Start the mixer on low speed and add the water-yeast mixture, followed by the melted butter. Continue to mix for 3 or 4 minutes, until all the ingredients are combined (see notes, page 265). The dough will be rough and bumpy, but it should be in one piece. Transfer the dough to the greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. 3) With your fist, gently press down on the dough, releasing as much gas as possible. Place the dough on a large piece of plastic wrap and shape into a 10 by 12 in [25 by 30.5 cm] rectangle. Cover the dough with more plastic wrap, place it on a sheet pan, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. 4) In the bowl of the stand mixer now fitted with a paddle, beat together the European butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon of flour for 2 to 3 minutes, until combined and creamy. The mixture should be pliable, but not melting; it should have the texture of cream cheese and should spread evenly. 5) Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough into a 12 by 20 in [30.5 by 50 cm] rectangle. Spread the entire rectangle evenly with the butter, leaving a ½ in [13 mm] border around the rectangle. Make the first turn, or letter fold: Starting with a short side facing you, fold one-third of the dough onto itself, making sure the edges are lined up with each other. Then fold the remaining one-third of the dough on top of the side that has already been folded. Rotate the dough so the seam is facing to the right and one open end is facing you. Gently roll out the dough into a 10 by 18 in [25 by 46 cm] rectangle. (Each time you roll, the rectangle will get a bit smaller.) Repeat the letter fold. Sprinkle flour on a sheet pan or plate, place the dough on it, and freeze the dough for 6 minutes—set a timer so you don’t forget (see notes below)! 6) Remove the dough from the freezer and repeat the letter fold again, making sure the seam is facing to the right. Roll out the dough again into a rectangle, this time about 8 by 16 in [20 by 40.5 cm]. Repeat the steps for one letter fold. Gently compress the dough with the rolling pin, and depending on the recipe you are using it in, keep the dough in one piece or cut it into two equal portions. If using the dough immediately, place the piece being used in the freezer for 6 minutes to chill, then proceed with the recipe. Otherwise, wrap the dough in plastic wrap, place it in a freezer-safe bag, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. The dough can be removed from the freezer the night before using and placed in the refrigerator to thaw.

NOTES Don’t overmix the dough when combining the ingredients; this can result in a tough, chewy texture.

If the dough is left in the freezer for more than 6 minutes, it will start to freeze and then break apart as you roll it out. If you didn’t remove the dough on time, let it sit at room temperature for a while until it rolls out easily.

This is my shortcut to puff pastry, a recipe method less exacting and labor-intensive than the real thing. But you don’t lose out on rich, flaky layers; this rough puff boasts those in spades.

Rough Puff Pastry

MAKES • ABOUT 2 LB [900 G]

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1½ cups [3 sticks or 339 g] unsalted butter, cut into 20 pieces

¼ cup [60 g] ice water, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons, as needed

½ teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1) Dust a sheet pan or plate with flour and set aside. Place the butter pieces in a small bowl in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes. 2) In a liquid measuring cup, combine ¼ cup [60 g] of the ice water and the lemon juice. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix together the flour, granulated sugar, and salt on low speed. Add the chilled butter and mix until only slightly incorporated. The pieces of butter will be smashed and in all different sizes, most about half their original size. Add the water mixture and mix until the dough just holds together and looks shaggy. If the dough is still really dry and not coming together, add more ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough just starts to hold. 4) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and flatten it slightly into a square. Gather any dry, loose pieces and place them on top of the square. Gently fold the dough over on itself and then flatten into a square again. Repeat this process five or six times, until all the loose pieces are worked into the dough. Flatten the dough one last time and form it into a 6 in [15 cm] square. Transfer the dough to the prepared sheet pan and sprinkle the dough with flour. Refrigerate for 20 minutes, until firm. 5) Return the dough to the lightly floured work surface and roll it into an 8 by 16 in [20 by 40.5 cm] rectangle. If the dough sticks at all, sprinkle more flour underneath it. Brush any excess flour off the dough and, using a bench scraper, fold the short ends of the dough over the middle, like a business letter, making three layers. This is the first turn. (If the dough still looks shaggy, don’t worry; it will become smooth and will even out as you keep rolling.) 6) Flip the dough over, seam side down, give the dough a quarter turn, and roll away from you, this time into a 6 by 16 in [15 by 40.5 cm] rectangle. Fold the short ends over the middle again, business-letter style. This is the second turn. Sprinkle the top of the dough with flour, return it to the sheet pan, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. 7) Return the dough to the work surface and repeat the process of folding the dough for the third and fourth turns. On the fourth turn, use a rolling pin to gently compress the layers together slightly. Depending on the recipe you are using it in, keep the dough in one piece or cut the dough into two equal portions. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using. Otherwise, wrap the dough in plastic wrap, place it in a freezer-safe bag, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. The dough can be removed from the freezer the night before using and placed in the refrigerator to thaw.

This recipe is a great homemade replacement for chocolate wafer cookies, which are often used in cookie crusts. It makes a large batch and also freezes well, so you can always have cookies on hand if needed.

100

Chocolate Wafer Cookies

MAKES • ABOUT 50 COOKIES

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons [160 g] all-purpose flour

½ cup [50 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder, plus more for dusting

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

3 tablespoons heavy cream

1) In a small bowl, combine the flour, cocoa powder, salt, and baking soda. 2) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, 1 minute. Add the granulated and brown sugars and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix on medium speed until combined. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed until just combined (the mixture will be crumbly), then add the heavy cream and mix until completely combined and the dough is coming together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator until cool but not firm, about 30 minutes. 3) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Line three sheet pans with parchment paper. 4) Lightly dust your work surface with cocoa powder. Roll the dough ⅛ in [4 mm] thick. Use a 1 in [2.5 cm] biscuit cutter to cut out rounds. The dough scraps can be rerolled and cut out multiple times. (This dough is very forgiving, so if it cracks as you are rolling it out, you can gently press it back together.) Place the rounds on the prepared sheet pans, fitting about 20 cookies on each pan. 5) Bake the cookies one pan at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes. The cookies will puff up slightly while baking and then fall down when they are baked through. 6) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cookies cool completely (the cookies will crisp up as they cool). Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 1 month.