CHAPTER 8 Extras
“‘Since when,’ he asked, ‘Are the first line and last line of any poem, Where the poem begins and ends?’”
—Seamus Heaney, “The Fragment”
Caramel
This staple is fine store-bought, but so much better homemade. It is a perfect topping to the No-Churn Ice Creams (page 283).
MAKES 1½ CUPS [270 G]
1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar
⅓ cup [80 g] water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup [120 g] heavy cream
5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, cut into 5 pieces
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan (a deep pan since the caramel will bubble), combine the granulated sugar, water, corn syrup, and salt, stirring very gently to combine while trying to avoid getting any sugar crystals on the side of the pan. Cover the pan, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and boil until the sugar has melted and the mixture is clear, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover, then cook until the sugar has turned light golden. Turn the heat down to medium and cook until the sugar has turned deep golden and registers 340°F [170°C] on an instant-read thermometer. Remove immediately from the heat and carefully add the heavy cream. (The cream will foam considerably.) Add the butter, followed by the vanilla, and stir to combine. Set aside to cool. The caramel can be refrigerated for 2 weeks.
VARIATION
- Salted Caramel: When you take the caramel off the heat, add ½ teaspoon of fleur de sel or other flaky salt along with the vanilla.
Brown Butter
Brown butter adds a nutty flavor to many dishes, but it’s not a perfect swap for regular butter in most recipes, as some of the liquid evaporates from the butter as it cooks. You can use any amount of butter for this; the process will be the same.
Unsalted butter
In a light-color, heavy-bottom skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter. As the butter begins to melt, swirl it around the pan with a rubber spatula. When it starts to bubble, increase the heat to medium and keep stirring until it boils and begins to foam, 3 to 5 minutes. You will start to see brown bits at the bottom of the skillet, and it will begin to smell nutty. Keep stirring, making sure to gently scrape the bottom of the skillet with the spatula as you do so. The butter will quickly change from light brown to dark brown at this point, so keep a close eye on the skillet. Once it is golden brown, remove it from the heat and pour the butter and any flecks on the bottom of the pan into a heatproof bowl. The brown butter can be used immediately or cooled to room temperature and stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Crème Fraîche
Crème fraîche is similar to sour cream but with a gentler tang and a higher percentage of butterfat. When introduced to high temperatures, it withstands heat and doesn’t break.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS [960 G]
3 cups [720 g] heavy cream
¾ cup [180 g] buttermilk
In a large bowl, whisk together the cream and buttermilk. Cover the top of the bowl with several layers of cheesecloth and place a rubber band or tie a string around the bowl to keep the cheesecloth in place. Let the bowl sit out at room temperature for 24 hours and up to 3 days until it has thickened considerably. (The time it needs depends on the temperature inside your home; cold winter days will cause the mixture to take much longer to thicken than hot summer ones.) When it is thick and ready to use, gently stir the mixture and transfer it to an airtight container. Refrigerate the mixture for up to 1 week.
NOTE Buttermilk contains active cultures (“good” bacteria) that prevent the cream from spoiling and is acidic enough to deter “bad” bacteria from growing.
Whipped Cream
Homemade whipped cream is so delicious and really simple to make. Recently, Zoë François schooled me on my whipped-creaming technique; she insists that low and slow whipping, finished by hand, is the way to go for perfect whipped cream. Of course, she was right. Finishing by hand gives you more control, preventing over-whipping.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS [720 ML]
1½ cups [360 g] heavy cream
2 tablespoons granulated sugar or confectioners’ sugar (see note, page 279)
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Pinch of salt (optional; see note, page 279)
1) Ten minutes before whipping the cream, place the bowl and whisk from a stand mixer in the freezer (if it doesn’t fit in your freezer, you can refrigerate for 20 minutes instead). 2) In the chilled bowl of the stand mixer fitted with a chilled whisk, whisk together the heavy cream, granulated sugar, vanilla, and salt (if using) on low speed for 30 to 45 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the cream is thick and nearly doubled in volume. 3) Remove the bowl from the mixer and continue whisking by hand (you can use the whisk attachment or a handheld whisk) to your desired consistency. Whipped cream is best used right away, but it can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours.
NOTE Confectioners’ sugar melts faster than granulated, so some bakers prefer using it. I mostly use granulated because I always have it on hand. A pinch of salt isn’t needed, but I add it occasionally if the dessert I’m serving is extra sweet.
VARIATIONS
⦁ Caramel Whipped Cream: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, add 1 cup [240 g] of heavy cream and ½ cup [170 g] of Caramel (page 276), at room temperature. Whisk on low speed for 30 to 45 seconds, until combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the cream is smooth, thick, and nearly doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract and mix on low speed until combined.
⦁ Mascarpone Whipped Cream: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, add ¾ cup [180 g] of mascarpone, ⅓ cup [65 g] of granulated sugar, and a pinch of salt. Whisk on low speed until combined. Slowly add 1½ cups [360 g] of heavy cream in a steady stream, mixing until combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the cream is smooth, thick, and nearly doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract and mix on low speed until combined.
⦁ White Chocolate: In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-low heat, warm 1 cup [240 g] of heavy cream until bubbles form at the edges. Place 4 oz [113 g] of white chocolate, chopped, into the bowl of a stand mixer. Pour the warm cream over the chocolate, wait 1 minute, then whisk until smooth. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla and whisk to combine. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Fit a stand mixer with the whisk and beat the mixture on low speed until frothy, then raise the speed to medium and beat until smooth, thick, and nearly doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes.
Pastry Cream
I use pastry cream in my Pavlova (page 233) and as a filling in many confections, but you can put it to so many other uses in your baking life. It can be flavored, folded into whipped cream for a mousse-like texture, or made into German buttercream (crème mousseline) by beating it with room-temperature butter to a smooth texture. Your working ratio is 1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] of butter to 2 cups [450 g] of pastry cream.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS [450 G]
5 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped, pod reserved
¼ cup [28 g] cornstarch
1 cup [240 g] whole milk
1 cup [240 g] heavy cream
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the egg yolks on low speed. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly add the granulated sugar, followed by the salt and vanilla bean seeds, and increase the speed to medium-high (see note, page 280). Beat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is very thick and pale yellow. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the cornstarch, then mix on low speed until combined.
2) In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the milk, heavy cream, and vanilla bean pod until just about to simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture into a medium liquid measuring cup with a pourable spout, leaving the pod behind in the pan. 3) With the mixer running on low speed, very slowly add the hot milk mixture. Mix until completely combined. Transfer the mixture back to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon for 5 to 7 minutes, until the pastry cream becomes very thick and begins to boil. Switch to a whisk and whisk the mixture for 3 to 4 minutes, until the pastry cream thickens and is glossy and smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the pastry cream through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Stir in the butter and vanilla. Cover with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap sits directly on top of the cream (this will help keep it from forming a skin). Place in the refrigerator until well chilled. Use right away or keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 4 to 5 days.
NOTE If the egg yolks are left alone with the sugar, the sugar can burn the yolk, causing it to harden and form little egg bits in whatever you are making. Make sure to continuously whisk the yolks while adding sugar.
Almond Cream
Almond cream, a.k.a. frangipane cream, is used frequently in traditional French baking. There are many ways to make it: with pastry cream, extra egg yolk, almond paste, brandy, or orange essence. Most recipes contain quite a bit of sugar, but since I usually use almond cream in a rich, sugary pastry, I add less. I use almond meal instead of breaking down almonds in the food processor; it saves an extra step and tastes just as good.
MAKES 1 CUP [300 G]
4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
½ cup [50 g] almond meal
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 tablespoon brandy (optional)
⅛ teaspoon almond extract, or more to taste
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar and salt and mix for 1 to 2 minutes, until creamy and combined. Add the almond meal and all-purpose flour and mix until combined, then add the egg and mix again, scraping down the sides as needed, until combined. The mixture may look broken at this point, but that is normal. Add the brandy (if using) and almond extract and stir to combine. The cream will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
NOTE You can stir in ⅓ cup [75 g] of pastry cream at the end for a richer version or replace the brandy with ¼ teaspoon of orange essence.
VARIATION
- Hazelnut Cream: Replace ½ cup [50 g] of almond meal with ½ cup [50 g] of hazelnut flour.
Lemon Curd
Store-bought lemon curd is often too sweet or metallic tasting, so I find that making it at home with fresh lemons is well worth the effort. I leave out the zest for a smooth, not-too-tart curd, but you can add some to ramp up the lemon flavor.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS [640 G]
8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
5 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 large egg, at room temperature
⅓ cup [80 g] fresh lemon juice
1) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar and salt and mix on medium speed until combined, 1 minute more. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the egg yolks on low speed. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 3 to 4 minutes, until smooth and light. Add the whole egg and mix on low speed until combined, then add the lemon juice and mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. 2) Transfer the mixture to a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a spatula, until the curd becomes very thick, about 10 minutes, or registers 170°F [75°C] on an instant-read thermometer; the mixture should coat a spatula at this point. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl, then cover with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap sits directly on top of the curd (this will help keep it from forming a skin). Place in the refrigerator until well chilled. The curd can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
NOTE Add 2 tablespoons of lemon zest to the mixing bowl with the granulated sugar for a lemon curd with a tarter, more acidic flavor.
VARIATIONS
- Blood Orange Curd: Replace the lemon juice with ⅓ cup [80 g] of blood orange juice.
- Passion Fruit Curd: Replace the lemon juice with ⅓ cup [80 g] of passion fruit purée.
No-Churn Ice Cream
I had a whole chapter of no-churn ice cream in my first book, The Vanilla Bean Baking Book, and I find it a welcome alternative to churning homemade ice cream, as it takes less time and doesn’t need an expensive machine.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS [960 G]
One 14 oz [396 g] can sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped (optional)
¼ teaspoon salt
2 oz [57 g] cream cheese, at room temperature
2 cups [480 g] heavy cream
1) In a large bowl, whisk together the sweetened condensed milk, vanilla extract, vanilla bean seeds (if using), and salt until completely combined. 2) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the heavy cream in a slow, steady stream, mixing until combined. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk until stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. 3) Add half of the whipped cream mixture to the sweetened condensed milk mixture and whisk until completely combined. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the remaining whipped cream mixture until no streaks remain. Pour into a 9 by 4 in [23 by 10 cm] Pullman loaf pan (see note, page 284) and freeze until firm, 6 hours, or up to 1 week.
NOTE If you don’t have a Pullman pan, a regular 9 in [23 cm] loaf pan covered with plastic wrap will work too.
VARIATIONS
• Coffee No-Churn Ice Cream: Add ½ cup [120 g] of room-temperature brewed espresso or strong coffee and ½ teaspoon of ground espresso to the sweetened condensed milk mixture.
• Salted Caramel No-Churn Ice Cream: Make the no-churn ice cream as directed. Pour half of the ice cream mixture into the Pullman pan, then dollop ½ cup [180 g] of Caramel, salted caramel variation (page 276), over the ice cream. Use the tip of a butter knife to swirl the mixture into the ice cream. Pour the remaining ice cream on top, then dollop with another ½ cup [180 g] of salted caramel. Swirl again with the butter knife. Freeze as directed.
• Pumpkin No-Churn Ice Cream: Add ¾ cup [168 g] of unsweetened pumpkin purée, ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg, and a pinch of cloves to the sweetened condensed milk mixture.
• Chocolate No-Churn Ice Cream: Melt 8 oz [226 g] of semisweet or bittersweet chocolate. Pour 5 oz [142 g] of the chocolate onto a sheet pan lined with parchment and freeze until firm, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the remaining 3 oz [85 g] of melted chocolate to the sweetened condensed milk mixture. Chop the cold chocolate into bite-size pieces and add it to the finished ice cream mixture before pouring it into the loaf pan.
• Peanut Butter No-Churn Ice Cream: Add ⅓ cup [72 g] of creamy peanut butter and ½ teaspoon of lemon juice to the sweetened condensed milk mixture. For extra peanut butter flavor, crush 4 to 6 store-bought peanut butter cups and stir them into the mixture.
Candied Nuts
Nuts are perfect by their lonesome, but adding caramelized sugar and salt elevates them to extraordinary. These are a great textural addition to cakes and confections.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS [380 G]
½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar
¼ cup [60 g] water
¼ teaspoon salt
2 cups [280 g] walnuts, black walnuts, pecans, peanuts, hazelnuts, cashews, almonds, or pepitas, or a combination
1) Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2) In a large skillet over medium heat, stir together the sugar, water, and salt. Cook until the sugar begins to melt, then add the nuts, stirring almost constantly until the nuts are toasted and lightly caramelized. Pour the nuts onto the prepared sheet pan and let them cool completely before chopping. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Streusel
I keep a bag of streusel in my freezer, and it comes in handy quite often. I use it to top the Lemon Streusel Squares (page 188), banana bread, muffins, Bundt cakes, and so on. Baked up on its own, it’s a crunchy addition to a bowl of oatmeal, yogurt, or ice cream.
MAKES 4 CUPS [500 G]
1⅓ cups [189 g] all-purpose flour
1 cup [100 g] almond flour
⅔ cup [130 g] granulated sugar
⅔ cup [130 g] brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 12 pieces
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the all-purpose and almond flours, granulated and brown sugars, cinnamon, and salt on low speed. With the mixer running on low speed, add the butter, one piece at a time, until the mixture comes together but is still quite crumbly. Store the streusel in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze in a freezer-safe bag for up to 1 month.
Pecan Streusel
Pecans bring extra crunch and toasty nut flavor to anything you sprinkle this streusel over.
MAKES 5 CUPS [740 G]
1½ cups [180 g] toasted pecans, chopped small
1⅓ cups [189 g] all-purpose flour
⅔ cup [130 g] granulated sugar
⅔ cup [130 g] brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted
In a large bowl, mix together the pecans, flour, granulated and brown sugars, cinnamon, and salt. Pour the melted butter over the top and use a spatula to stir everything together until combined. Store the streusel in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze in a freezer-safe bag for up to 1 month.
Candied Cacao Nibs
Tara O’Brady’s wonderful book, Seven Spoons, introduced me to candied cacao nibs years ago. They make a delicious addition to the Brownies 2.0 recipe (page 64), and they’re a perfect crunchy-hit-of-chocolatey topping to a scoop of ice cream.
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS [300 G]
2 cups [240 g] cacao nibs
½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
1) Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2) In a large skillet over medium heat, stir together the cacao nibs, granulated sugar, and salt. Cook until the sugar begins to melt and the cacao nibs begin to toast, stirring almost constantly. Lower the heat to low and cook until the cacao nibs are lightly caramelized. Pour onto the prepared pan and cool completely before chopping. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Chocolate Magic Shell
Just as its name states, this recipe is magic. When this warm, chocolatey topping hits the cold, creamy ice cream, it hardens almost instantly, creating a crunchy shell that is downright delicious. It will taste fantastic on any of the No-Churn Ice Cream (page 283) variations, but I especially love it on the peanut butter version.
MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS [230 G]
1 cup [170 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips
¼ cup [60 g] refined coconut oil
Place the chocolate chips and coconut oil in a large liquid measuring cup or other microwave-safe dish. Microwave on high for 30 seconds, then stir. Repeat until the mixture is melted and completely smooth. Let cool slightly, and then pour over ice cream. The magic shell will keep for several months stored at room temperature. If the magic shell hardens, you can gently reheat it in the microwave.
NOTE Extra-virgin coconut oil does not work as well here because it will make the magic shell taste like coconut. Refined coconut oil has a subtler flavor.
