CHAPTER 6 Weekend Projects

”It was afternoon tea, with tea foods spread out,Like in the books, except that it was coffee.”

—Alberto Ríos, “Coffee in the Afternoon”

Morning buns are the gold standard of breakfast pastries, with their sweet, swirled cinnamon-orange centers wrapped in a flaky, buttery blanket. An afternoon cake adaption of this favorite breakfast treat seemed like an important contribution to both the cake genre and afternoons in general. If you are looking to sneak in that last espresso drink before the afternoon cutoff, this cake is a perfect accompaniment.

Orange-Cinnamon Swirl Cake

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] CAKE

ORANGE-CINNAMON SWIRL

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Pinch of salt

CAKE

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276), at room temperature

¼ cup [60 g] orange juice

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon triple sec or other orange liqueur

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

1) FOR THE ORANGE-CINNAMON SWIRL In a small bowl, combine the granulated sugar, orange zest, cinnamon, and salt. Reserve 2 tablespoons for sprinkling on top. 2) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 3) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, eggs, crème fraîche, orange juice, oil, triple sec, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Pour half of the batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle the swirl mixture (minus the reserved 2 tablespoons) over the top. Cover with the rest of the batter and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Use a butter knife to swirl the batter in a figure eight once or twice, then sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of swirl mixture. Tap the pan gently on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles. 4) Bake for 32 to 40 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan, transfer to the wire rack, and let cool until just warm to the touch. Cut the cake into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

My cookbook 100 Morning Treats has a recipe for Maple Bourbon Caramel Rolls, and I loved the maple-caramel flavor so much I decided to incorporate it here as well. The cake is swirled with a cinnamon-sugar filling, and then the caramel is poured over the warm cake, which makes for a tender, tasty bite.

Maple Bourbon Sticky Bun Cake

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] CAKE

CINNAMON SWIRL

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of cloves

Pinch of salt

CAKE

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276), at room temperature

¼ cup [60 g] buttermilk

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon triple sec or other orange liqueur

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

MAPLE BOURBON CARAMEL

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter

1 cup [200 g] brown sugar

1 cup [240 g] heavy cream

⅓ cup [107 g] maple syrup

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons bourbon

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

¾ cup [90 g] pecan halves, toasted and chopped

1) FOR THE CINNAMON SWIRL In a small bowl, combine the granulated sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Set aside. 2) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 3) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, eggs, crème fraîche, buttermilk, oil, triple sec, vanilla, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Pour half of the batter into the pan, then sprinkle the swirl mixture over the top. Cover with the rest of the batter and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Use a butter knife to swirl the batter in a figure eight once or twice. Tap the pan gently on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles. 4) Bake for 32 to 40 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 5) FOR THE MAPLE BOURBON CARAMEL While the cake is baking, make the caramel: In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter, brown sugar, heavy cream, maple syrup, and salt until the butter has melted. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook until the mixture has thickened slightly and registers 235°F [113°C] on an instant-read thermometer, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the bourbon and vanilla, stirring to incorporate. Stir a few times while waiting for the cake to finish baking. 6) Transfer the cake pan to a wire rack and immediately pour half of the caramel sauce over the cake, then sprinkle the chopped pecans over the caramel. Let the cake sit for 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature. Pour the remaining caramel over the top, covering the cake evenly. Let the cake cool until just warm to the touch, then use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan. Cut the cake into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

The first time I tried frangipane, it was slathered on bostok, a delicious treat made with day-old brioche. It was sophisticated yet comforting, and I fell in love at first bite. I changed things up slightly here: The base is cake instead of leftover bread, the frangipane swirled into the cake is hazelnut instead of almond, and the entire affair is topped with meringue.

Hazelnut Frangipane Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1¾ cups [350 g] granulated sugar

Scant ¾ cup [175 g] egg whites (from 5 to 6 large eggs), at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

⅓ cup [80 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 ⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

1 recipe Almond Cream (page 280), hazelnut variation

1 recipe Meringue (page 258)

½ cup [70 g] hazelnuts, skinned and chopped into bite-size pieces

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, granulated sugar, egg whites, buttermilk, crème fraîche, oil, vanilla, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt.

Add the flour and use a spatula to stir it into the batter. Switch to a whisk and whisk the batter to eliminate any remaining flour lumps, about 10 seconds. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Dollop the hazelnut cream over the cake batter and fold it into the batter gently with a butter knife six or seven times using a figure-eight motion, then use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan on the counter twice to get rid of any air bubbles. 3) Make the meringue as directed. Working quickly, spoon the meringue over the cake batter and swirl it into the batter gently with a butter knife six or seven times using a figure-eight motion, then smooth the top. There should still be a visible amount of meringue on the top, which will bake up as a topping.

4) Bake for 45 minutes, then sprinkle the top of the cake with the chopped nuts. Continue baking 10 to 15 minutes more, until the top of the meringue is browned and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean; make sure you are checking the cake portion and not just the meringue. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool. Once cooled, remove the cake from the pan using the parchment sling and slice into squares. The bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Sometimes I like to sneak a little piece of chocolate in the late afternoons for a pick-me-up, and sometimes it’s a whole piece of cake. This is a riff on the Sunken Chocolate Bread from my first cookbook, baked in cake form. I find the flavor of the chocolate is deeper and darker a day or two after the cake has been made, but a slice of this warm is quite a treat. Do what you have to do.

Sunken Chocolate Cake

MAKES • ONE 8 IN [20 CM] CAKE

6 oz [170 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

1 cup [240 g] strong, freshly brewed coffee, hot

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] dark brown sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking soda

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

Cocoa powder, for dusting

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] springform baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Pour the hot coffee over the chocolate and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir to combine. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until smooth. Add the dark brown sugar and salt and mix on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat on medium speed until fully incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the baking soda and mix again until combined. Add the flour and mix on low speed until incorporated. With the mixer still on low, slowly add the hot coffee-chocolate mixture and mix until combined. Use a spatula to finish mixing the batter, making sure it is completely combined. 4) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 25 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 325°F [170°C] and bake for 15 to 20 more minutes. The loaf will still be moist inside, so a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center won’t come out clean. The cake should look moist under the top crust in the cracks that form, and should jiggle just slightly when gently shaken. 5) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. The cake will sink in the middle as it cools. When ready to serve, use the parchment sling to remove the cake from the pan. Dust with cocoa powder. Slice and serve. The cake can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

I’m a big fan of figs, probably because of my dad’s obsession with Fig Newtons back in the late ’80s. They were the only packaged “cookie” to be found in our cupboards, and I spent many afternoons sneaking them, slowly growing to love them over time. In this recipe, I use Thomas Keller’s genius way of incorporating flavored butter into his scones; he beats together butter, sugar, cinnamon, and flour, chills the mixture, and distributes it throughout the dough. I added some chopped figs to this mix, and it worked like a charm.

Fig Scones

MAKES • 8 SCONES

FIG BUTTER

2 oz [57 g] dried figs

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon brown sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

SCONES

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2¼ cups [320 g] all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, cold, cut into ½ in [13 mm] pieces

Heavy cream, for brushing

ICING

2 to 4 tablespoons milk or orange juice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

1½ cups [180 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) FOR THE FIG BUTTER In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade, process the figs until finely chopped. In a medium bowl, combine the chopped figs, butter, flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon and mix with a spatula until completely combined. Pat the fig butter into a 4 in [10 cm] square and wrap with a piece of plastic wrap, then chill in the refrigerator until very firm. 2) FOR THE SCONES Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. In a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the crème fraîche, egg, egg yolk, and vanilla. Set aside. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the flour-coated pieces are the size of peas. 4) Remove the fig butter from the refrigerator and cut into ½ in [13 mm] cubes. Add them to the bowl and mix on low speed until the cubes just begin to break down and are about half their original size. 5) Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a spatula to fold the wet ingredients into the dry until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead four to six times, until it comes together, adding more flour as necessary if the dough is sticky. Pat the dough gently into a square and use a rolling pin to roll it into a 12 in [30.5 cm] square, dusting with flour as necessary. Fold the dough into thirds, like a business letter. Fold the dough in thirds again by folding in the short ends, making a square. Transfer it to the prepared sheet pan and chill it in the freezer for 10 minutes. 6) Return the dough to the floured surface, roll it again into a 12 in [30.5 cm] square, and fold it in thirds. Turn over the dough so it’s seam side down and gently roll out the dough into a 12 by 4 in [30.5 by 10 cm] rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the dough crosswise into 4 equal rectangles, then cut each rectangle into 2 squares. Transfer the scones to the prepared sheet pan and place in the freezer while the oven is preheating. 7) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C]. Stack the sheet pan with the scones on another sheet pan. Brush the tops of the scones with a little heavy cream, making sure it doesn’t drip down the sides. Bake for 18 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the tops and bottoms are light golden brown. 8) FOR THE ICING While the scones are baking, make the icing: In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of milk, the melted butter, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix together, then whisk until well combined and smooth. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, to thin the icing to your preferred consistency; the icing should be thick but pourable. 9) Transfer the top sheet pan to a wire rack and ice the scones immediately with the back of a spoon or an offset spatula. The scones are best eaten the same day they are made.

NOTE Scones can be cut into circles with a biscuit cutter instead of cut into squares or triangles.

I saw a giant cheesecake brownie cake floating around on Instagram and knew I needed to make my own version in bar form. I use my favorite cheesecake and brownie bases; combined, they make an outrageous dessert with a cookie crust for crunch.

Brownie Cheesecake Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] Chocolate Wafer Cookies (page 270) or store-bought (see page 22)

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, melted

CHEESECAKE FILLING

24 oz [678 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ cup [180 g] sour cream, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

3 large eggs, at room temperature

BROWNIE FILLING

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

4 oz [113 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter

2 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder

¼ cup [36 g] all-purpose flour

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] or 10 in [25 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Place the wafers in the bowl of a food processor and process until broken down into fine crumbs. Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl and pour the melted butter over the top. Use a spatula to stir together until well combined. 3) Press the mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan and bake for 10 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool. 4) FOR THE CHEESECAKE FILLING Wipe out the bowl of the food processor. Add the cream cheese, granulated sugar, and salt and pulse until smooth and creamy. Add the sour cream and vanilla and pulse again until smooth. Add the eggs and pulse until the mixture is completely combined. Set aside. 5) FOR THE FILLING In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, granulated and brown sugars, oil, vanilla, salt, and baking powder. 6) In a small, heavy-bottom saucepan over low heat, add the semisweet chocolate and butter and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder and whisk until completely combined. 7) Add the chocolate mixture to the sugar-egg mixture and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 8) Pour three-fourths of the brownie batter over the cookie crust and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Pour the cheesecake mixture over the top of the brownie batter, then dollop the remaining brownie batter over the cheesecake. Drag the tip of a butter knife through the batter, avoiding the crust, to create swirls. 9) Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the sides have set, the cheesecake filling doesn’t jiggle, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the brownie mixture comes out with a few crumbs. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Place a piece of parchment over the top of the pan (this helps keep condensation off of the cheesecake) and transfer it to the refrigerator. Let chill for at least 6 hours or overnight. 10) When ready to serve, use the parchment sling to gently lift the cheesecake brownies from the pan before cutting into squares. Store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

I made a coconut version of this cake a few years ago while testing recipes for my website. My husband was enamored with the creamy buttercream, chocolate ganache, and chocolate chip cake base, even though he is not a fan of coconut. I made it again for his birthday with a plain vanilla base, and after he asked me to marry him again, I knew I had a perfect cake.

Chocolate Chip Buttermilk Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

1 cup [240 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

Scant 1 cup [210 g] egg whites (from 6 or 7 large eggs), at room temperature (see note, page 220)

½ cup [120 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2¼ cups [320 g] all-purpose flour

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 1 in [2.5 cm] pieces

¾ cup [120 g] mini semisweet chocolate chips or chopped chocolate

1 recipe Ultra Buttercream (page 249)

1 recipe Ganache (page 257)

Chocolate curls, sprinkles, or chocolate pearls, for decorating (optional)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the buttermilk, egg whites, crème fraîche, and vanilla.

3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. With the mixer running on low speed, add the butter, one piece at a time, beating until the mixture resembles coarse sand. With the mixer still running on low speed, slowly add a little more than half of the wet ingredients. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the ingredients are incorporated, about 30 seconds, With the mixer running on low speed, add the rest of the wet ingredients, mixing until just combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 20 seconds (the batter may still look a little lumpy). Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the chocolate chips, and use a spatula to mix the batter a few more times. 4) Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Tap the pan gently on the counter twice to help get rid of any air bubbles. Bake for 36 to 45 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cake is golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with a faint bit of crumbs. 5) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes, then turn the cake out onto the rack, remove the parchment paper, and let cool completely. Once cool, the cake can be frosted or wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated overnight. 6) Spread the buttercream over the top of the cake using an offset spatula. Chill until firm, about 2 hours. 7) Place the cake on a wire rack set over a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Starting in the center of the cake, pour the ganache in a steady stream and work your way out to the edge. Continue pouring over the edges, until the sides are completely covered. Decorate with chocolate curls, sprinkles, or chocolate pearls (if using). Let the ganache set before slicing into squares and serving. The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 days. Let the cake come to room temperature before slicing and serving.

NOTE Because the egg whites aren’t being whipped for volume, store-bought egg whites will work here; just make sure they are 100 percent liquid egg whites.

The first tiramisu cake I ever had was at the Blue Heron Coffeehouse. Colleen had made it for a wedding celebration, and we got to try pieces from the sample cakes she made. I was smitten with the mini chocolate chips nestled in the layers and a hint of marsala wine, and I made Larry photocopy the recipe for me. I found it recently and decided to modernize and simplify it: a single layer of cake, soaked in Kahlúa and coffee, with mascarpone whipped into the cream so it holds in the refrigerator.

Tiramisu Cake

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CAKE

1¾ cups [350 g] granulated sugar

Scant ¾ cup [175 g] egg whites (from 5 or 6 large eggs), at room temperature

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

⅓ cup [80 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or sour cream, at room temperature

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2⅓ cups [331 g] all-purpose flour

SOAKING SYRUP

½ cup [120 g] strong, freshly brewed coffee

¼ cup [80 g] Kahlúa

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

MASCARPONE TOPPING

6 oz [170 g] mascarpone cheese

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1½ cups [360 g] heavy cream

2 tablespoons marsala wine

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Cocoa powder, for dusting

1) FOR THE CAKE Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, egg whites, melted butter, buttermilk, crème fraîche, oil, vanilla, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour and use a spatula to combine it into the batter. Whisk to eliminate any remaining flour lumps in the batter, about 10 seconds. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the pan on the counter twice to get rid of any air bubbles. 3) Bake for 24 to 32 minutes, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 4) FOR THE SOAKING SYRUP While the cake is baking, in a small saucepan, combine the coffee, Kahlúa, granulated sugar, and salt. Heat over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. 5) Transfer the cake in the pan to a wire rack. Pour the soaking syrup over the entirety of the cake, using all of the mixture. Let the cake cool completely before frosting.

6) FOR THE MASCARPONE TOPPING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the mascarpone cheese, granulated sugar, and salt on low speed until smooth and light, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and fit the mixer with the whisk. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly add the heavy cream, whisking until fully combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until soft peaks form, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the marsala and vanilla and mix again on low speed until just combined. 7) Top the cooled cake with the mascarpone topping, using an offset spatula to smooth the top. Dust generously with cocoa powder, then refrigerate the cake for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. Cut into squares and serve. The cake can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

NOTE The flavor and texture of this cake intensifies and softens the longer it sits in the refrigerator. I love it the day after assembling, served at room temperature.

Back in my Blue Heron days, we had a group of college students who came in every afternoon for a slice of cheesecake and a giant iced mocha; one of the women would order two slices cut into one giant triangle, and I’ll never forget how her eyes would light up when I handed it to her every day. Her enthusiasm for the dessert inspired me to try a slice (up until that point in my life, I had avoided cream cheese altogether), and I’ll never forget that first bite: the creamy, tangy center, the crunch from the graham cracker, the hit of chocolate ganache all made time stand still for three glorious seconds. I’ve been hooked ever since.

White Chocolate Cheesecake

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] CAKE

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] graham cracker crumbs

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, melted

CHEESECAKE

2 lb [900 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup [240 g] Crème Fraîche (page 276) or store-bought

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

¾ cup [180 g] heavy cream, at room temperature

8 oz [226 g] white chocolate, melted and cooled

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278), caramel variation (optional)

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] springform pan. 2) In a medium bowl, mix together the graham cracker crumbs and granulated sugar. Add the melted butter and stir until all the crumbs are coated. Use a measuring cup or spoon to press the crumbs evenly onto the bottom of the prepared pan. 3) Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool slightly. After the pan has cooled, wrap the outer sides in two layers of aluminum foil, with the shiny side facing out (this helps keep the sides of the cheesecake from browning). 4) FOR THE CHEESECAKE In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until light and completely smooth, 4 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl often, making sure all the cream cheese is silky smooth. Add the granulated sugar and salt and beat on medium speed until completely incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the crème fraîche, butter, and vanilla and beat on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, then the yolk, beating on low speed after each addition until just combined. Add the heavy cream and mix on low speed until combined. Add the melted chocolate and mix on low speed until combined. Using a spatula, give the filling a couple of turns to make sure the white chocolate is completely incorporated. Pour the filling over the cooled crust and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Tap the bottom of the pan on the counter a few times to help get rid of any air bubbles. 5) Set a large roasting pan on the floor of the oven and fill it with 4 qt [3.8 L] of boiling water (see notes at right). Place the springform pan on the oven rack and bake the cheesecake for 1 hour without opening the door. Check the cheesecake after 1 hour; the outer ring (2 to 3 in [5 to 7.5 cm]) of the cheesecake should be slightly puffed and fairly firm, and the center should be set but still a bit jiggly when wiggled gently, resembling Jell-O. If the outer ring is not firm, let the cheesecake bake another 10 to 15 minutes (see notes at right). The center of the cheesecake should register 150°F [65°C]. Turn off the heat, open the oven door just a crack, and let the cheesecake rest and cool in the warm, humid oven for 30 minutes. 6) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the foil from the pan and carefully run a thin knife or an offset spatula around the cake to help loosen it from the pan (this will prevent cracking as it cools). Once the cake is completely cool, place a piece of parchment paper over the top of the pan (to keep condensation off the top of the cheesecake) and transfer to the refrigerator. Let chill for at least 6 hours or overnight. 7) TO ASSEMBLE To remove the cheesecake from the pan, run a thin, offset spatula between the sides of the cake and the pan and then gently remove the sides. Slide the spatula between the bottom of the crust and the pan to loosen it, then carefully slide the cheesecake onto a serving plate. Let the cheesecake come to room temperature before serving. Top with the whipped cream. The cheesecake can be stored in in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

NOTES I’ve always used a roasting pan of water on the floor of the oven instead of immersing the cheesecake in a water bath. The steam from the water helps prevent the cheesecake from drying and cracking. Many people argue that a water bath helps create a creamier cheesecake, but I haven’t noticed a significant difference, and I find this method less worrisome than trying to stick a springform in water and then moving it to the oven.

The baking time on the cheesecake is relative, and it may take longer to bake than suggested. Making sure your ingredients are room temperature, adding boiling water to the roasting pan, and using an oven thermometer to make sure your oven temperature is correct will ensure good results. Don’t be afraid to bake your cheesecake longer than noted if it hasn’t set; this will not hurt the cheesecake.

“But I don’t mind some cake—seed-cake, if you have any.” “Lots!” Bilbo found himself answering, to his surprise; and he found himself scuttling off, too, to the cellar to fill a pint-beer mug, and then to a pantry to fetch two beautiful round seed-cakes which he had baked that afternoon for his after-supper morsel.”

These picnic cakes always remind me of this scene in J. R. R. Tolkien’s The Hobbit; they are small, simple treats that can be wrapped up and slipped into a backpack or picnic basket and are perfect for nibbling on and sharing with other afternoon wanderers.

Picnic Cakes

MAKES • THREE 6 IN [15 CM] CAKES

1⅓ cups [189 g] all-purpose flour

¼ cup [25 g] almond flour

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

¾ teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons almond extract, more or less to taste

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ cup [120 g] sour cream, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

1 cup [100 g] sliced almonds (optional)

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease and flour three 6 in [15 cm] baking pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. 2) In a medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, almond flour, poppy seeds, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar and mix again until light and fluffy, 4 to 6 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed until incorporated. Add the almond extract and vanilla and mix again until combined. Add one-third of the flour mixture, then the sour cream, mixing after each addition until just incorporated. Add half of the remaining flour mixture, then the buttermilk, and then the remaining flour mixture, mixing after each addition until just incorporated into the batter. Use a spatula to scrape down the bowl and make sure the mixture is completely combined. 4) Divide the batter among the prepared pans and use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to smooth the tops. Generously sprinkle the top of each cake with granulated sugar, then cover with almonds (if using). Tap the pans gently on the counter twice each to help get rid of any air bubbles. 5) Bake for 24 to 30 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the cakes are golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean. Transfer the pans to a wire rack and let cool for 3 or 4 minutes. Run a knife gently around the edge of the cakes to help release them from the sides, then let the cakes continue cooling in the pans until just warm, about 15 minutes. Run a knife gently around the sides again, then turn the cakes out onto the rack, remove the parchment paper, and let cool completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar (if using) and serve. The cakes can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Technically this is an oversized Toaster Strudel (something my mom refused to let us eat on a regular basis growing up, no matter how much we begged), but since we are baking a pastry and not jamming it in the toaster I have changed up the title. My Rough Puff Pastry (page 268) makes for a flaky treat, and you can choose the filling that suits your mood. Sprinkles are optional, but way more fun.

Giant Pop Tart

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CREAM CHEESE FILLING

4 oz [113 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ cup [112 g] jam, apple butter, Nutella, or peanut butter

ASSEMBLY

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 recipe Rough Puff Pastry (page 268), cut into two equal pieces

Egg wash (see page 16)

ICING

2 to 4 tablespoons milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

1½ cups [180 g] confectioners’ sugar

Sprinkles, for decorating (optional)

1) FOR THE CREAM CHEESE FILLING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and salt and beat again until smooth. With the mixer running on low speed, add the vanilla and mix until completely combined, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2) TO ASSEMBLE Lightly flour a large sheet of parchment paper and roll half of the dough into a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] rectangle. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Keeping the parchment paper in place under the dough, transfer one rectangle to a baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, spread the cream cheese filling over the top of the pastry, leaving a 1 in [2.5 cm] border. Top the cream cheese with the jam. Using the parchment paper, place the second rectangle of dough on top of the filling and discard the parchment. Pinch the edges of the dough together, then crimp the edges with a fork. Place the pan in the freezer for about 20 minutes while the oven is preheating. You want the dough to be nice and firm before you bake it. 3) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C]. 4) When ready to bake, brush the top of the dough with egg wash. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown and puffed. Transfer the strudel in its pan to a wire rack and let cool before icing. 5) FOR THE ICING In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the milk, the melted butter, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix together, then whisk until well combined and smooth. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, to thin the icing to your preferred consistency; the icing should be thick but pourable. Pour the icing over the top, using the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to smooth the icing. Scatter sprinkles over the top (if using). Let the icing set, then cut into squares and serve. The strudel is best eaten the same day it’s made.

My good friend Zoë François created the most beautiful pavlova I have ever seen, a work of art filled with whipped cream and passion fruit. Drawing on the origin of the dessert with the dancer Anna Pavlova, Zoë innovated a tutu shape for her pavlovas that has become her signature. Like with my Smoky Butterscotch Cream Pie (page 112), I chose an easier route for my version of her recipe. I make small circles of pavlova, which bake up faster, and I pile them full of fruity goodness to cover any cracks.

Pavlova

MAKES • 5 OR 6 PAVLOVAS

1 recipe Meringue (page 258), doubled, pavlova variation

1 recipe Pastry Cream (page 279)

1 recipe Lemon Curd (page 281)

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278)

Fresh berries, for topping

Passion fruit pulp, for topping

Chopped fresh herbs, such as mint, anise hyssop, or rose geranium, for topping

Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling (optional)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 275°F [135°C]. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2) Place a 4 by 2 in [10 by 5 cm] ring mold on the parchment paper and fill it with meringue, smoothing the top with an offset spatula. Carefully remove the mold. (If you do not have a ring mold, you can shape a 4 by 2 in [10 by 5 cm] circle freeform on the parchment.) Repeat this on the parchment paper 5 or 6 times, spacing the circles out with a few inches between each one (they will spread as they bake). 3) Bake until the pavlovas are light blond in color, 35 to 45 minutes. Turn off the oven and let the pavlovas sit in the oven for 2 hours. 4) Remove from the oven, then use the back of a spoon or a paring knife to gently collapse the center of the pavlovas if they haven’t already. Fill each with ¼ cup [56 g] of the pastry cream and ¼ cup [56 g] of the lemon curd. Top with the whipped cream, fresh berries, passion fruit pulp, fresh herbs, and a sprinkle of confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Pavlovas are best eaten the same day they are made.

This giant croissant was inspired by the New York Times food section, after having seen Sohla El-Waylly’s beautiful version. Here I use my Cheater Croissant Dough (page 264)and fill the croissant with apricot jam and frangipane, then top with almonds.

Apricot Almond Croissant

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SERVINGS

ASSEMBLY

All-purpose flour, for dusting

½ recipe Cheater Croissant Dough (page 264)

1 recipe Almond Cream (page 280)

1 cup [320 g] store-bought apricot jam

Egg wash (see page 16)

1 cup [100 g] sliced almonds

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1) Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2) Lightly flour a work surface and roll the dough into a 20 by 12 in [48 by 30 cm] rectangle. Spread the almond cream evenly over the top of the dough, followed by the jam. Fold the dough in half to make a 10 by 12 in [25 by 30 cm] rectangle. Use a rolling pin to gently compress the edges, then transfer the dough to the prepared pan. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. 3) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C].

4) Remove the plastic wrap, brush the dough with egg wash, then top with the almonds. 5) Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the crust is deep golden brown and puffed. Carefully transfer the croissant to a wire rack and let cool until just warm to the touch (letting it cool off the pan will help it stay crisp on the bottom). Dust with confectioners’ sugar, then slice and serve. The croissant is best eaten the same day it is made.

Over the years, more and more friends and family have found themselves gluten intolerant, and I wanted to come up with a simple cake that I could serve them for birthdays, holidays, or just because. Baking with gluten-free flours can be tricky, and I spent months working on this recipe. I didn’t want to have to use a specific all-purpose gluten-free flour brand that may not be available everywhere, so I kept my base simple with just white rice flour and almond flour. After many tries, hours reading Reddit threads on gluten-free baking, and then coming across the book Experimental Food Science by Marjorie P. Penfield and Ada Marie Campbell, I finally had my cake.

My family (who is not gluten-free) loves this cake, and we love it plain, with no topping or frosting. It is a perfect afternoon snacking cake. However, whipped cream and strawberries are delicious on top, as is chocolate ganache poured over the cooled cake.

Gluten-Free Cake

MAKES • ONE 8 IN [20 CM] CAKE

1 cup [140 g] white rice flour

1 cup [100 g] almond flour

1¾ teaspoons baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking soda

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

⅓ cup [75 g] vegetable or canola oil

½ cup [120 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease and line an 8 in [20 cm] baking pan. 2) In a medium bowl, whisk together the rice flour, almond flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and lemon juice together on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. With the mixer still running, slowly sprinkle the granulated sugar into the egg mixture. Increase the speed to high and whip until the mixture has doubled in volume and is thick and pale yellow, 4 to 5 minutes. 4) Lower the speed to low and add the vanilla, then slowly pour in the oil, followed by the buttermilk. Mix until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Add the flour mixture to the batter and mix on low speed for 90 seconds. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use the whisk attachment to gently whisk the batter, making sure all the ingredients are incorporated. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan.

5) Bake the cake until golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Run a knife around the edges of the pan, then turn the cake out onto the rack, remove the parchment paper, and let cool completely. This cake can be stored in an airtight container, at room temperature, for up to 3 days.