CHAPTER 3 Pie Bakes

“Pies are just sweet calzones, honey, and I’m good at making calzones.”

—Ben Wyatt, Parks and Recreation

Chocolate + shortbread + caramel = a perfect trio. This is my favorite way to combine the three, sometimes known as a “millionaire” dessert. I add a little splash of triple sec because the faint hit of orange adds brightness. Flaky salt on top can be a pretty final touch.

Millionaire Pie

MAKES • ONE 10 IN [25 CM] TART

CRUST

10 tablespoons [140 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅓ cup [65 g] granulated sugar

½ teaspoon salt

2 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

Egg wash (see page 16)

CARAMEL

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [80 g] corn syrup

2 tablespoons water

¼ teaspoon salt

2 cups [480 g] heavy cream

¼ cup [60 g] Crème Fraîche (page 278)

14 tablespoons [196 g] unsalted butter, cut into 1 in [2.5 cm] pieces

1 tablespoon triple sec or other orange liqueur

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 recipe Ganache (page 257)

1) FOR THE CRUST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar and salt and mix on medium speed until light and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg yolks and vanilla and mix on low speed until combined. Add the flour and mix on low speed until combined. 2) Press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides of a 10 in [23 cm] tart pan with a removeable bottom (see note, page 106). Press and smooth the dough with your hands to an even thickness. 3) Transfer the pan to the freezer until the dough is firm, 20 to 30 minutes.

4) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Remove the pan from the freezer and line the crust with parchment paper, covering the edges to prevent burning. Fill the center with pie weights. 5) Bake for 22 to 28 minutes, until the dough is light golden brown and no longer wet. Remove the tart pan from the oven and carefully remove the pie weights and parchment paper. Brush the center of the tart with the egg wash. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 3 to 6 more minutes, until deep golden brown. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. 6) FOR THE CARAMEL In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup, water, and salt, stirring very gently to combine while trying to avoid getting any sugar crystals on the sides of the pan. Cover the pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat until the sugar has melted and the mixture is clear, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until the sugar has turned a pale golden color and registers 300°F [150°C] on an instant-read thermometer, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the heat down slightly and cook for a few minutes more until the sugar is golden and registers 350°F [180°C]. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and carefully add about ½ cup [120 g] of the heavy cream. (The cream will foam considerably and may seize, but this is normal.) Continue to add the heavy cream, a little bit at a time, until it is all incorporated. Add the crème fraîche. Add the butter, one piece at a time, stirring after each addition, followed by the triple sec and vanilla, and stir to combine. Set the pan back over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until any hard pieces have melted. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until the caramel registers 240°F [115°C] (this is the soft-ball stage), 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Pour the warm caramel into the baked, cooled crust and let set at room temperature, about 2 hours. 7) TO ASSEMBLE Starting in the center of the pan, pour the warm ganache over the caramel in a steady stream and work your way out to the edge, making sure to completely cover the surface of the caramel. Refrigerate until set, about 1 hour. When ready to serve, let the tart sit at room temperature for 1 hour, then slice and serve. The tart can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

NOTE Tart pans come in many different depths; some are very shallow. You will need a pan that has at least 1½ in [4 cm] sides for this recipe.

I went through a chocolate peanut butter pie phase in high school. Our local Baker’s Square Pie Shoppe served one, and it was pure indulgence: a flaky base filled with a chocolate–peanut butter mixture and topped with whipped cream and peanut butter cups. I decided to update that memory in this recipe. I use an almost flourless chocolate cake base instead of pie crust to house the peanut butter filling, then chocolate ganache and candied peanuts push it over the edge. This is a dreamy dessert, and a little goes a long way.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CHOCOLATE BASE

8 oz [226 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

2 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder

1¼ cups [250 g] granulated sugar

5 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup [36 g] all-purpose flour

PEANUT BUTTER FILLING

1½ cups [323 g] creamy peanut butter

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup [60 g] confectioners’ sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon lemon juice

1¼ cups [300 g] heavy cream

ASSEMBLY

1 recipe Ganache (page 257)

1 cup [140 g] Candied Nuts (page 284), peanut variation, chopped

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE CHOCOLATE BASE In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring frequently until smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the cocoa powder. 3) In a large bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, eggs, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Add the flour and mix again until combined. Add the warm chocolate and whisk until combined. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes. 4) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Bake until the edges are set and the center jiggles slightly, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. 5) FOR THE PEANUT BUTTER FILLING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix together the peanut butter and butter on low speed until smooth and combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar and salt and mix again until combined. Add the vanilla and lemon juice and mix again until incorporated. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and clean out the stand mixer bowl. 6) In the now-clean stand mixer bowl fitted with a whisk, beat the heavy cream on medium speed until soft peaks form, 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk one-third of the whipped cream into the peanut butter mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whipped cream. 7) TO ASSEMBLE Dollop the peanut butter mixture over the baked, cooled chocolate base and use an offset spatula to smooth the top, then chill for at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours. Starting in the center of the pie, pour the warm ganache in a steady stream and work your way out to the edge, making sure to completely cover the surface of the pie. Sprinkle the candied peanuts over the top. Transfer the pie to the refrigerator and let chill for 1 hour. 8) Use the parchment sling to gently lift the pie from the pan, cut into squares, and serve. Store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 days.

It’s hard to say no to creamy chocolate mousse, especially after a long morning, and Irish cream makes this pretty much irresistible once 3 p.m. hits. If you would prefer to make it without the alcohol, omit the Irish cream from the ganache and use ⅓ cup [80 g] heavy cream instead.

Chocolate Irish Cream Mousse Pie

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] PIE

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] Chocolate Wafer Cookies (page 270) or store-bought (see page 22)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

IRISH CREAM GANACHE

6 oz [170 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

⅓ cup [80 g] heavy cream

¼ cup [60 g] Irish Cream

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

2½ cups [600 g] heavy cream

5 large egg yolks, at room temperature

½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

10 oz [283 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278) or mascarpone variation (page 279)

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] springform pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Place the cookies in the bowl of a food processor and process until broken down into fine crumbs. Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl and pour the melted butter over the top. Use a spatula to stir together until combined. 3) Press the mixture onto the bottom of the prepared pan and bake for 10 minutes. Let the crust cool completely. 4) FOR THE IRISH CREAM GANACHE Place the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over low heat, heat the heavy cream and Irish cream until simmering and just about to boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let sit for 5 minutes.

5) Remove the plastic and whisk until completely smooth. Pour the ganache over the cooled crust and smooth the top with an offset spatula. Transfer the pie to the refrigerator and let the ganache set, about 1 hour. 6) FOR THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE In a small, heavy saucepan over low heat, heat 1 cup [240 g] of the heavy cream until just hot. 7) In a medium saucepan off the heat, whisk the egg yolks. Whisking constantly, slowly add the granulated sugar to the egg yolks, then the salt, and then slowly pour in the warmed heavy cream. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon—this usually happens at 160°F [70°C] (the custard will thicken as it cools). Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl and stir in the vanilla. 8) In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the chocolate, stirring frequently until smooth. Whisk the chocolate into the custard until smooth, then let cool. 9) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the remaining 1½ cups [360 g] of heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Whisk one-third of the whipped cream into the chocolate custard to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whipped cream. 10) Transfer the mousse to the crust over the chilled ganache. Use an offset spatula to spread it in an even layer. Chill the pie for at least 6 hours and up to overnight (I cover the top of the pie with a loose piece of parchment paper. Wrapping it in plastic can make the crust less flaky). 11) When ready to eat, top with the whipped cream and serve. The pie can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Zoë François is known in Minneapolis for a butterscotch pot de crème she created for the restaurant Tilia. In her genius recipe, the butter and brown sugar are cooked together until deep amber and smoking, giving it a unique flavor. I came up with a cheater’s method after burning too many batches of sugar; I add a tiny hit of liquid smoke to the pudding instead, and it works like a charm. The liquid smoke can be omitted for classic results, and your pie will be just as delicious.

Smoky Butterscotch Cream Pie

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] PIE

BUTTERSCOTCH FILLING

4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup [28 g] cornstarch

2 cups [480 g] whole milk

1 cup [240 g] heavy cream

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter, cut into 1 in [2.5 cm] pieces

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon blackstrap rum or bourbon

A few drops liquid smoke, or more to taste

ASSEMBLY

1 recipe Pat-in-the-Pan Pie Dough (page 262), baked and cooled in a 9 in [23 cm] pie pan

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278)

1 cup [140 g] Candied Nuts (page 284), pecan variation, roughly chopped

1) FOR THE BUTTERSCOTCH FILLING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the egg yolks on low speed. Slowly add the granulated sugar, followed by the brown sugar and salt. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the mixture is thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the cornstarch. Turn the mixer to low speed and mix until combined. 2) In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk and heavy cream until just simmering. Remove from the heat and transfer to a medium liquid measuring cup with a pourable spout. 3) With the mixer running on low speed, very slowly add the hot milk mixture. Mix until completely combined. Return the mixture to the saucepan.

4) Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture becomes thick and begins to boil, 6 to 8 minutes. Switch to a whisk and whisk the mixture until it becomes the consistency of pudding and is glossy, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Stir in the butter, vanilla, rum, and liquid smoke (if using). 5) TO ASSEMBLE Pour the pudding over the cooled crust in the pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Cover with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap sits directly on top of the pudding (this will help keep it from forming a skin). Chill the pie for at least 6 hours. 6) Top the chilled pie with the whipped cream. Chill the whole pie for at least 1 hour. The pie can be held unsliced in the refrigerator for 8 hours and will keep for up to 2 days, although the crust will not be as crisp as time goes on. Before slicing, top the pie with the candied nuts. The pie is best eaten as soon as possible.

Lemon and white chocolate is a frequent pairing for me—I love the bright, tart flavor of the lemon combined with the extra-sweet chocolate. Here, white chocolate is added to the whipped cream topping, which keeps the flavors slightly more separate and makes for an interesting bite.

Lemon White Chocolate Pie

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] vanilla wafers

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, melted

FILLING

4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

½ cup [120 g] lemon juice

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 tablespoon lemon zest

¼ teaspoon salt

One 14 oz [396 g] can sweetened condensed milk

1 or 2 drops yellow food coloring (optional)

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278), white chocolate variation

1 lemon, thinly sliced, for garnishing

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a food processor fitted with a blade, pulse the vanilla wafers until broken down into crumbs. Pour the crumbs into a small bowl, cover with the melted butter, and stir until all the crumbs are coated. Use a measuring cup or the back of a spoon to press the crumbs evenly onto the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Transfer the pan to a wire rack. 3) FOR THE FILLING In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, lemon juice, heavy cream, lemon zest, and salt until combined. Pour in the sweetened condensed milk and whisk again until smooth and fully combined. Add the food coloring (if using) and stir to evenly distribute. Pour the filling over the warm crust. Bake for 14 to 17 minutes, until the center is set but still wiggly when jiggled. 4) Transfer the pie to a wire rack and let cool completely. Place the pan in the refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. Top the chilled pie with the whipped cream and lemon slices, if desired, slice into squares, and serve. The pie can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days.

This pie was inspired by an old-school recipe, Angel Pie, an inside-out version of the classic lemon meringue pie. A meringue shell is used instead of pie crust, and is filled with lemon or lime curd, whipped cream, and/or jam. My version features a poppy seed meringue base cradling lemon curd and a giant pile of whipped cream.

Lemon Meringue Pie

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

A few drops lemon juice

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

1 cup [226 g] egg whites (from 7 or 8 large eggs), at room temperature

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

3 tablespoons poppy seeds

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 recipe Lemon Curd (page 282)

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 250°F [120°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Pour 1 in [2.5 cm] of water into a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a gentle boil. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, add the lemon juice and use a paper towel to wipe the juice around the inside of the bowl (this helps remove any trace of grease, which can hinder the whites from whipping properly). Add the sugar, egg whites, salt, and cream of tartar and stir gently with a rubber spatula until completely combined. 4) Place the bowl over the saucepan, being careful not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir with the spatula until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture registers 160°F [70°C] on an instant-read thermometer, scraping down the sides of the bowl with the spatula (to ensure no sugar crystals are lurking, which can cook the egg whites), 4 to 5 minutes. 5) Place the bowl in the stand mixer and whisk the egg whites on low speed for 1 minute. Slowly increase the speed to medium-high and beat until stiff, glossy peaks form, 8 to 10 minutes. The bowl should feel cool to the touch at this point. Add the poppy seeds and vanilla and mix on low speed until combined.

6) Transfer the meringue to the prepared pan, spreading it along the bottom and up the sides of the pan. The sides should be about 1 inch [2.5 cm] higher than the center. Bake the meringue for 2 hours. Turn off the oven and let the meringue sit in the oven for 1 more hour. 7) Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool completely. Fill the cooled shell with the lemon curd, then top with the whipped cream and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. Cut into squares and serve. The pie can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.

I came across “Mock Apple Pie” in a Saveur cookbook and took it on as another old-school recipe that I wanted to modernize. The original is said to have been created during the American Civil War, when rations were tight. Crackers were substituted for apples and baked with water, spices, and sugar, for a result that does indeed resemble apple pie filling. In my version, water is replaced with apple cider, I use a dough made with crème fraîche, and I’ve enriched the filling with more salt, butter, and cinnamon.

Apple Cider Pie

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL SQUARES

CRUST

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 recipe Crème Fraîche Dough (page 263)

Egg wash (see page 16)

Granulated sugar, for sprinkling

FILLING

2 cups [480 g] apple cider

2 cups [400 g] granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cream of tartar

¼ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

2 tablespoons lemon juice

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cups [112 g] crushed saltine crackers (about 36 crackers)

1) FOR THE CRUST Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. Lightly flour your workspace. Roll one half of the dough into a 9 in [23 cm] square and gently pat it into the bottom of the prepared pan. Roll out the second half of the dough into a 9 in [23 cm] square and place it on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Chill both doughs in the refrigerator while making the filling. 2) FOR THE FILLING In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the apple cider, granulated sugar, cream of tartar, and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat to medium-low and let simmer until the mixture starts to thicken and turn syrupy, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter, lemon juice, and cinnamon and mix until combined and the butter has melted. Add the crushed saltines and stir to combine. Let cool for 20 minutes. 3) Fill the prepared shell with the saltine mixture and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Remove the rolled-out dough from the sheet pan and gently cut a few steam vents in the dough. Place the dough over the top of the filling (no need to press it down to seal the dough). Chill the pan in the refrigerator while the oven preheats. 4) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C]. Place a sheet pan on the oven rack (the preheated sheet pan helps crisp the bottom of the pie crust). 5) When ready to bake, brush the top of the pie lightly with the egg wash and sprinkle generously with granulated sugar. Transfer the pie to the preheated sheet pan and bake for 34 to 38 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Let cool completely before slicing into squares and serving. Apple cider pie is best eaten the same day it is made but can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Each summer, our raspberry bushes are out of control, racing up and down our fence as if they own the place. We adore them, despite their wild tendencies, and I am thankful for the deep pinks and reds peeking out at every turn. Mixed berry pie is always on our list of things to bake, and a little cream cheese tucked into the pie crust helps balance out the tart flavor of the raspberries without having to add piles of extra sugar. I often throw a grated apple in with my pie filling, which adds a little extra pectin as well as sweetness, and using blueberries helps too. Cooking the cornstarch with the strained fruit juices (another trick I learned from Ms. François) helps bind the filling, which makes for a nice, neat slice once cut.

Mixed Berry Cheesecake Slab Pie

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CREAM CHEESE FILLING

8 oz [226 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 large egg, at room temperature

MIXED BERRY FILLING

10 heaping cups [1.3 kg] fresh berries, a mixture of raspberries, blueberries, and/or blackberries (see note, page 122)

1 cup [150 g] peeled and grated Gala apple (about 2 small apples)

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup [28 g] cornstarch

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon raspberry vodka (optional)

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

CRUST

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 recipe Pie Dough (page 261)

Egg wash (see page 16)

Granulated sugar, for sprinkling

1) FOR THE CREAM CHEESE FILLING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and flour and beat again until smooth. Turn the mixer to low speed, add the egg, and mix until completely combined, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2) FOR THE MIXED BERRY FILLING In a large bowl, combine the berries, grated apple, ½ cup [100 g] of the granulated sugar, and salt. Let sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. (Letting the fruit sit longer is better, as more juice will be released; 2 hours is a good time frame). 3) Strain the sugary juice from the fruit into a medium saucepan (you should have at least ½ cup [120 g] of juice). Return the fruit to the large bowl and set aside. Add the remaining ¼ cup [50 g] of sugar, the cornstarch, and lemon juice to the juice in the pan and heat over medium heat. Cook until the cornstarch mixture is thick and translucent; the mixture will go from cloudy to shiny and bright. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Stir in the vodka (if using) and vanilla. Set aside to cool slightly. 4) Pour the cornstarch mixture over the berries and stir gently. 5) FOR THE CRUST Lightly flour a large sheet of parchment paper and roll one piece of dough into a 15 by 13 in [41 by 33 cm] rectangle. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Using the parchment paper, transfer one rectangle to a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] jelly roll pan or quarter sheet pan. Press the dough into the pan and discard the parchment. Pour the berry filling on top of the dough and spread into an even layer. Dollop the cream cheese filling over the berry filling. Using the parchment paper, place the second rectangle of dough on top of the filling and discard the parchment. Trim the dough overhangs to 1 in [2.5 cm] past the lip of the pan. Pinch the dough together and tuck it under itself. Crimp the edges and cut several X-shaped vents across the top of the dough. Place the pan in the freezer for about 20 minutes while the oven is preheating (you want the crust to be nice and firm before you bake it). 6) Position an oven rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 425°F [220°C]. Place a baking sheet large enough to hold the jelly roll pan on the oven rack (the preheated baking sheet helps crisp the bottom of the pie crust and catches any leaks and drips). 7) When ready to bake, brush the top of the slab pie with the egg wash and sprinkle generously with granulated sugar. Place the pie pan on the preheated baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] and bake for 35 to 50 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden brown and the juices bubble. Transfer the slab pie in its pan to a wire rack and let cool for at least 4 hours before cutting into portions and serving. The pie is best eaten the same day it is made.

NOTE For a sweeter pie versus a tart pie, use more blueberries than raspberries or blackberries. I usually don’t include strawberries in this pie, but if using them, quarter them for best results.

This is my favorite recipe for Key Lime Pie turned on its head—passion fruit replaces the lime, milk chocolate covers the creamy fruit center, and then the whole thing is topped off with toasted meringue. Passion fruit and milk chocolate are a classic combination, but the chocolate can be skipped if you are looking for a straight-up fruit filling.

Passion Fruit S’mores Pie

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL BARS

CRUST

1½ cups [150 g] graham cracker crumbs

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

5 tablespoons [70 g] unsalted butter, melted and cooled

8 oz [226 g] milk chocolate, chopped

FILLING

4 large egg yolks

¾ cup [180 g] passion fruit concentrate

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

One 14 oz [396 g] can sweetened condensed milk

1 recipe Meringue (page 258)

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Place the graham cracker crumbs in a medium bowl and whisk in the granulated sugar. Pour the melted butter over the top, then use a spatula to stir together until combined. 3) Transfer to the prepared pan and use a measuring cup or spoon to press the crumbs evenly onto the bottom of the pan. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until brown and fragrant. Remove the pan from the oven, scatter the milk chocolate evenly over the crust, and bake for 2 minutes. Use the back of a spoon to spread the chocolate smoothly over the crust. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool slightly.

4) FOR THE FILLING In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, passion fruit concentrate, vanilla, and salt until combined. Pour in the sweetened condensed milk and whisk again until smooth and fully combined. Pour the filling over the warm crust. 5) Bake for 14 to 17 minutes, until the center is set when jiggled. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Chill the bars for 4 hours or overnight. 6) TO ASSEMBLE Make the meringue as directed. Working quickly, pile the meringue on top of the chilled filling. Use an offset spatula to spread the meringue evenly over the top. Use a kitchen torch to carefully brown the meringue. Slice the pie into squares and serve. Store covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

I wanted a summer pie that highlighted strawberries but didn’t require a labor-intensive pie crust or gelatin. Graham cracker crumbs and whipped cream were the obvious choices, but roasted strawberries were the key. The intense flavor and juices from the berries made this pie special, and swirling some of the mashed, roasted berries into the whipped cream helped this pie scream of strawberries. A perfect dessert for long summer afternoons.

Roasted Strawberry Cream Pie

MAKES • ONE 9 IN [23 CM] PIE

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] graham cracker crumbs

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, melted

STRAWBERRIES

2 lb [900 g] strawberries, hulled

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

1 vanilla bean, split (optional)

1 tablespoon strawberry schnapps

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278), mascarpone variation

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. 2) FOR THE CRUST In a medium bowl, mix together the graham cracker crumbs and granulated sugar. Add the melted butter and stir until all the crumbs are coated. Use a measuring cup or spoon to press the crumbs evenly into the bottom and up the sides of a 9 in [23 cm] pie pan. 3) Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool. 4) FOR THE ROASTED STRAWBERRIES Increase the oven temperature to 400°F [200°C]. 5) In a large baking dish, combine the strawberries, granulated sugar, and salt and toss to combine. Nestle the vanilla bean (if using) into the strawberries.

6) Bake, uncovered, until the strawberries are tender and are leaking juices, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the berries cool to room temperature. Remove the vanilla bean and save for another application or discard. 7) TO ASSEMBLE In a small bowl, mash 1 cup of the roasted berries with a fork. Stir the mashed berries and strawberry schnapps into the mascarpone whipped cream. 8) Scatter 1 cup of the roasted berries on the bottom of the cooled pie shell. Pour the mascarpone whipped cream over the berries, then top with the remaining roasted berries. This pie is best served immediately, but can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 1 day.

I make these streusel bars every holiday season; the brown-buttered crumbly streusel pairs seamlessly with the creamy pumpkin filling, and the cinnamon, ginger, and cloves give off late November vibes. Regardless, my kids often beg for them in the middle of July, and if I find you baking them in the summer months too, I will absolutely understand.

Pumpkin Streusel Pie

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

PUMPKIN FILLING

One 15 oz [425 g] can unsweetened pumpkin purée

One 14 oz [396 g] can sweetened condensed milk

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ teaspoon ground ginger

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of cloves

CRUST

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into ½ in [13 mm] slices

2¾ cups [391 g] all-purpose flour

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [25 g] almond flour or quick oats

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE PUMPKIN FILLING In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin purée, sweetened condensed milk, eggs, brown sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, salt, nutmeg, and cloves until smooth. Set aside. 3) FOR THE CRUST Melt 8 tablespoons [113 g] of the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the butter until it is dark golden brown and is giving off a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes (for tips on browning butter, see page 276). Pour the browned butter (and any bits of browned butter stuck to the bottom of the skillet) into a medium bowl and let cool for 10 minutes.

4) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the all-purpose flour, granulated sugar, almond flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the browned butter and mix on low speed until the butter is combined into the flour mixture. Add the egg and mix again until the egg is worked into the flour. Add the remaining 8 tablespoons [113 g] butter to the flour and mix until the butter is combined and the mixture is crumbly. 5) Press half of the crust mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan. 6) Bake for 10 minutes. Spread the pumpkin mixture over the crust, sprinkle the remaining crust mixture evenly over the top, and bake for 18 to 25 more minutes, until the pumpkin has puffed up a bit and does not jiggle, and the crumbly top is light golden brown. 7) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool. Place the pan in the refrigerator and chill for 4 to 6 hours. Slice into bars and serve. The bars can be served cold or at room temperature but keep best in an airtight container in the refrigerator for about 3 days.

In Minnesota, rhubarb’s ruby red appearance is the whisper that spring has finally arrived, and what I like to think Emily Dickinson is referencing: “A Light exists in spring … a color stands abroad / on solitary hills / That science cannot overtake, / But human nature feels.” With such a dramatic entrance, it’s important for every Northern baker to have good rhubarb recipes in her baking tool belt. I like to balance the very tart rhubarb with sugar and cream, and in these hand pies I make a rhubarb jam that pairs beautifully with creamy mascarpone, which I wrap up in flaky, buttery puff pastry.

Rhubarb and Cream Hand Pies

MAKES • 8 HAND PIES

RHUBARB JAM

2 cups [250 g] chopped rhubarb, fresh or frozen, cut into 1 in [2.5 cm] pieces

½ cup [100 g] granulated sugar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

MASCARPONE FILLING

2 oz [57 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

2 oz [57 g] mascarpone cheese, at room temperature

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

ASSEMBLY

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 recipe Rough Puff Pastry (page 268), cut into 2 pieces

Water, for brushing

Egg wash (see page 16)

Granulated sugar, for sprinkling

1) FOR THE RHUBARB JAM In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the rhubarb, granulated sugar, lemon juice, and salt and simmer, stirring often, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the rhubarb has broken down and the jam is thick enough to coat a wooden spoon.

2) Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the vanilla, and let cool to room temperature. 3) FOR THE MASCARPONE FILLING In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the cream cheese and mascarpone cheese on medium speed until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the granulated sugar, mixing on low speed until completely combined. Transfer to a small bowl and refrigerate until ready to use. 4) TO ASSEMBLE Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 5) Generously flour your work surface. Roll one piece of the pastry dough into a 10 in [25 cm] square. Cut into four 5 in [12 cm] squares. Repeat with the second piece of dough, for a total of eight squares. Place a dollop of jam and a dollop of mascarpone filling on each square, about 1 tablespoon of each. Brush the edges of each square lightly with water, fold the dough to make a triangle, and crimp the edges with a fork to seal.

6) Transfer the triangles to the prepared sheet pan and place in the freezer while the oven preheats. 7) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C]. 8) Brush the tops of the hand pies lightly with egg wash and generously sprinkle with granulated sugar. Slide another sheet pan underneath so the pans are double stacked (this helps keep the bottoms from overbrowning). Bake the pies until golden brown, rotating the pan halfway through baking, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and use a spatula to transfer the pies to a wire rack to cool slightly. Serve warm. Hand pies are best eaten the same day they are made.

NOTE You will have some rhubarb jam leftover; this tastes delicious on toast.

I make this version of banana cream pie in small containers for several reasons: It is easy to serve them packaged this way, I don’t have to mess with gelatin in my filling to set the banana pastry cream, and these elevated pudding cups are the best way to spend an afternoon. If you can splurge on a vanilla bean to use in the pastry cream, you won’t regret it.

Banana Cream Pie

MAKES • 6 SERVINGS

CRUST

2 cups [200 g] graham cracker crumbs or Nilla Wafer crumbs

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter, melted

ASSEMBLY

1 recipe Pastry Cream (page 279)

2½ cups [400 g] bananas, sliced into ¼ in [6 mm] circles (about 4 bananas)

1 recipe Whipped Cream (page 278), mascarpone variation

Candied Nuts (page 284), Candied Cacao Nibs (page 288), or chocolate curls (optional)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F [170°C]. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2) In a medium bowl, mix together the graham cracker crumbs and granulated sugar. Pour the melted butter over the top and stir until all the crumbs are coated. Pour the crumbs onto the prepared sheet pan and spread into an even layer. 3) Bake the crumbs until golden and fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. 4) TO ASSEMBLE In a large bowl, stir together the pastry cream and the bananas until combined.

5) Divide the cooled graham cracker crumbs between six 3 by 2 in [7.5 by 5 cm] ramekins or other similar-size vessels, pressing them down on the bottom to form an even layer. Divide the pastry cream among the ramekins, then top each one with the mascarpone whipped cream. Chill the pies for 1 hour and up to 8 hours before serving. Top with candied nuts, candied cacao nibs, or chocolate curls (if using).

NOTE Bananas can turn brown in the pastry cream if sitting for more than a few hours. Some bakers brush their banana slices with lemon juice to help slow the browning process, but this can change the flavor of the pie and it’s not ideal. You can also wait until just before serving to mix the bananas into the pastry cream. I think the flavor is best when the bananas sit in the cream for a few hours, and just serve as is.