CHAPTER 2 Brownies, Blondies, and Bars

“There are words we say in the dark, There are words we speak in the light. And sometimes they’re the same words.”

—Li-Young Lee

One of my previous books, 100 Cookies, contains a recipe for my go-to brownies, which are a chewy and chocolatey reader favorite. However, over the past decade I have slowly upgraded that version by including egg yolks and more cocoa (both of which add richness) and using a bittersweet chocolate for intense flavor. Valrhona’s Guanaja 70 Percent Dark Chocolate is excellent here, but your favorite chocolate will also be delectable.

Brownies 2.0

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BROWNIES

4 large eggs, at room temperature

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

½ cup [112 g] vegetable or canola oil

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

¾ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon baking powder

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter

10 oz [283 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

⅓ cup [33 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons [160 g] all-purpose flour

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, granulated and brown sugars, oil, vanilla, salt, and baking powder. Set aside. 3) Place the butter and chocolate in a small, heavy-bottom saucepan set over low heat and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder, whisking until completely combined. Add the chocolate mixture to the sugar-egg mixture and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 4) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top.

5) Bake for 22 to 27 minutes, until the sides of the brownies have set, the top is starting to crackle and look glossy, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with crumbs. The batter on the toothpick should not be wet but should have a good amount of crumbs clinging to it. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the brownies from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

VARIATION

Extra-Rich Brownies: Bake the brownies in a 10 in [25 cm] square pan for 28 to 34 minutes.

There was a day in my late twenties when my love for store-bought milk chocolate candy died. It was the day I was introduced to bittersweet chocolate ganache: that rich, creamy goodness now took first place in my heart. I still like milk chocolate in moderation, especially if it’s paired with a darker chocolate to offset some of its sweeter notes. This brownie does just that; the milk chocolate swirl it includes is subtle but delicious.

Milk Chocolate Swirl Brownies

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BROWNIES

MILK CHOCOLATE SWIRL

3 oz [85 g] milk chocolate, finely chopped

¼ cup [60 g] heavy cream

BROWNIES

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

½ cup [112 g] canola oil

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon salt

6 oz [170 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter

¼ cup [25 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

1) FOR THE MILK CHOCOLATE SWIRL Place the milk chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over low heat, heat the heavy cream until it is simmering and just about to boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let it sit for 5 minutes. Remove the plastic and whisk until completely smooth. Chill the filling for 20 to 30 minutes until cool. 2) FOR THE BROWNIES Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 3) In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, granulated and brown sugars, oil, vanilla, baking powder, and salt.

4) Place the semisweet chocolate and butter in a small, heavy-bottom saucepan set over low heat and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder to the chocolate and whisk until completely combined. 5) Add the chocolate mixture to the sugar-egg mixture and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 6) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Dollop the milk chocolate ganache over the top and drag the tip of a butter knife through the batter, creating swirls. 7) Bake for 26 to 32 minutes, until the sides of the brownies have set, the top is starting to crackle and look glossy, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with crumbs. The batter on the toothpick should not be wet but should have a good amount of crumbs clinging to it. 8) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the brownies from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

NOTE Leave a small space un-swirled in the center of the batter when assembling. This is the spot you want to insert your toothpick to check when the bars are done, as the swirl will remain wet throughout baking.

White chocolate in brownies will not be the hill that I die on, but if you are rolling your eyes, I will just whisper gently to you that I’ve also added good old-fashioned regular chocolate here, which I hope will entice you to try this recipe. Using a good brand of white chocolate is the key to success. I recommend Guittard’s Cacao White Chocolate Baking Wafers or Valrhona Ivoire feves.

White Chocolate, Dark Chocolate Brownies

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BROWNIES

5 large eggs, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

8 oz [226 g] white chocolate

8 tablespoons [1 stick or 113 g] unsalted butter

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

4 oz [113 g] bittersweet chocolate, chopped into bite-size pieces

4) Add the white chocolate mixture to the sugar-egg mixture and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then stir in the bittersweet chocolate. 5) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. 6) Bake the brownies for 28 to 32 minutes, until the sides of the brownies have set, the top is starting to crackle and look glossy, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with crumbs. The batter on the toothpick should not be wet but should have a good amount of crumbs clinging to it. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the brownies from the pan. Cut them into squares and serve. The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

NOTE Not all white chocolate is created equally. This recipe works best with a white chocolate that has at least 30 percent cocoa butter. These brownies can be made with a store-brand baking white chocolate bar, but please note that the papery top on the brownies will separate more as it bakes with lower percentage cocoa butter chocolate and will seem hard out of the oven. They will still taste good, and the top will soften as they cool.

Bananas and chocolate are a personal favorite, and combining my best banana bread recipe with my favorite brownie recipe might have been a stroke of genius. Or, just the opposite: This is so obvious, why didn’t I do this years ago? These bars take a little longer to put together since there are two separate bases, but I promise it’s worth your time.

Banana Bread Brownies

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BROWNIES

BROWNIE BASE

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar

¼ cup [56 g] vegetable or canola oil

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

4 oz [113 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

4 tablespoons [56 g] unsalted butter

2 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder

¾ cup [107 g] all-purpose flour

BANANA BREAD

½ cup [113 g] mashed very ripe bananas

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

¼ cup [50 g] brown sugar

¼ cup [60 g] buttermilk, at room temperature

1 large egg, at room temperature

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

¾ cup [107 g] all-purpose flour

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE BROWNIE BASE In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, granulated and brown sugars, oil, vanilla, salt, and baking powder. 3) Place the chocolate and butter in a small, heavy-bottom saucepan set over low heat and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder to the chocolate and whisk until completely combined. 4) Add the chocolate mixture to the sugar-egg mixture and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 5) FOR THE BANANA BREAD In a large bowl, whisk together the bananas, granulated and brown sugars, buttermilk, egg, melted butter, oil, vanilla, baking soda, and salt. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined.

6) TO ASSEMBLE Pour three-quarters of the brownie batter into the pan and smooth the top. Spread the banana batter over the brownie batter, then dollop the remaining brownie batter over the top. Drag the tip of a butter knife through the batter, making a figure-eight motion to create swirls and semi-combine the batter. You want the batters to mingle, but there should also be distinct swirls of each one. 7) Bake for 30 to 38 minutes, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the brownies comes out with crumbs. The brownie batter on the toothpick should not be wet but should have a good amount of crumbs clinging to it. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the brownies from the pan. Cut them into bars and serve. The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

One of the most-made recipes in 100 Cookies is the Cinnamon Roll Blondies, and over the years, I’ve come up with several variations on these beloved bars. Banana was a perfect addition: The blondies are rich and nutty, with good banana bread flavor and a tangy swirl of cream cheese.

Brown Butter Banana Blondies

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL BLONDIES

CREAM CHEESE SWIRL

3 oz [85 g] cream cheese, at room temperature

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

BLONDIES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

1½ cups [300 g] brown sugar

½ cup [113 g] mashed very ripe bananas

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

¾ teaspoon salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE CREAM CHEESE SWIRL In a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese and granulated sugar with a spatula until smooth and completely combined. 3) FOR THE BLONDIES In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, brown the butter until it is dark golden brown and is giving off a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes (for tips on browning butter, see page 276). Remove from the heat and add the brown sugar, banana, vanilla, and salt. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the egg and baking powder and whisk until combined. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined.

4) Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. Dollop the cream cheese mixture over the top of the batter. Drag the tip of a butter knife through the batter, creating swirls. 5) Bake for 22 to 28 minutes, until the blondies are set on the edges, the top is golden brown and beginning to form cracks, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the blondies comes out slightly wet with just a couple of crumbs. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the blondies from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The blondies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

NOTE Leave a small space unswirled in the center of the batter when assembling. This is the spot you want to insert your toothpick to check when the bars are done, as the cream cheese swirl will remain wet throughout baking.

There’s a lot of trash talk about blondies, mostly because they are not brownies, but also because they can be compared to cake or described as “cakey.” As a lifelong blondie fan, I can’t get on board with this slander. So I will give you this important key to getting a blondie right: Underbake it slightly. Please. An overbaked blondie is cakey and boring, and not gooey, rich, and fabulous as it is meant to be. I make these blondies in an 8 in [20 cm] square pan so they are extra thick and rich.

Bourbon Blondies

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL BLONDIES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

1½ cups [300 g] dark brown sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons bourbon

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 large egg, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

3 oz [85 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Flaky salt, for sprinkling (optional)

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, brown sugar, and salt. Remove from the heat and stir in the bourbon and vanilla. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the egg and baking powder and whisk until combined. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. Add the chocolate and stir gently. 3) Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. Sprinkle the top with flaky salt (if using).

4) Bake for 22 to 26 minutes, until the blondies are set on the edges, the top is golden brown and beginning to form cracks, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the blondies comes out slightly wet with just a couple of crumbs. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the blondies from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The blondies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

I’m not sure how these blondies evolved—I only know that my family is addicted to them, and I fear you will be too. They combine the perfect crunch and peanut butter flavor of a Scotcharoo bar with the gooey, brown-sugary goodness of a blondie. Each bite leads to another, and there is no escape once you’ve made them.

Scotcharoo Blondies

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BLONDIES

PEANUT BUTTER CRUNCH

½ cup [108 g] creamy peanut butter

3 tablespoons corn syrup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup [135 g] butterscotch chips

4 cups [120 g] Rice Krispies cereal

BLONDIES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

1½ cups [300 g] brown sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 large egg, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

½ cup [85 g] semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE PEANUT BUTTER CRUNCH In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat, melt the peanut butter, corn syrup, and butter. Add the butterscotch chips and stir until smooth (this will take a few minutes). Remove from the heat and pour the cereal into the hot mixture and use a spatula to stir until completely combined. 3) Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and press it down into the pan in a compact layer, making sure the top is smooth. Set aside while you make the blondie batter.

4) FOR THE BLONDIES In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, brown sugar, and salt. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the egg and baking powder and whisk to combine. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir until just combined. Add the chopped chocolate and stir again until the chocolate is evenly distributed. Pour the batter over the peanut butter crunch layer and use an offset spatula to spread it evenly over the top. The batter will be very thick and it will seem like just a thin layer across the top, but it will puff up nicely in the oven. 5) Bake for 22 to 26 minutes, until the blondies are set on the edges, the top is golden brown and just beginning to form cracks, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with just a couple of crumbs. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the blondies from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The blondies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

I am a huge fan of toasted sesame oil and use it often in my baking, especially in cookies. It pairs beautifully with brown sugar, so putting it in blondies seemed only natural. These blondies bake up thick and gooey with lots of sesame flavor. I like a whole tablespoon of toasted sesame oil, but you can start with just a teaspoon if desired.

Toasted Sesame Blondies

MAKES • 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALL BLONDIES

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

1½ cups [300 g] dark brown sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 large egg, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons black or white sesame seeds, or a combination, for sprinkling

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, brown sugar, and salt. Remove from the heat and stir in the toasted sesame oil and vanilla. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the egg and baking powder and whisk until combined. Add the flour and use a spatula to stir until just combined. 3) Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to smooth the top. Sprinkle the top evenly with the sesame seeds. 4) Bake for 24 to 28 minutes, until the blondies are set on the edges, the top is golden brown and just beginning to form cracks, and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the blondies comes out with just a couple of crumbs. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the blondies from the pan. Cut them into bars and serve. The blondies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Every winter holiday of my childhood had a sugar cookie decorating day. There were years when it was just my mom, my sister, and me sprinkling cookie tops with red and green. At some point my little brother came along and enjoyed dumping bottles of sprinkles over a single cookie. Sometimes a family friend would join in for a few hours, laughing with my mom or helping break up fights between me and my sister. My grandma would usually make an appearance, sipping coffee at the kitchen table and shaking her head at our mini disasters. Sugar cookie bars aren’t quite as creative as those individual cookies, but they are just as delicious and involve less fighting. Frosting and sprinkles can be added on top if desired.

Sugar Cookie Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

2½ cups [355 g] all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

¾ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and cream of tartar. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar and salt and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla and beat on medium speed until combined. Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until just combined.

4) Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and use your hands to smooth it into an even layer. Sprinkle the top generously and evenly with coarse sugar. 5) For soft, chewy bars, bake for 24 to 28 minutes, until light golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. For bars with crisp tops and bottoms, bake for 28 to 32 minutes, until the bars are golden brown. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the bars from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The bars can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

VARIATION

Sugar Cookie Bars with Frosting (pictured): Omit topping the bars with sugar. Use a single recipe of the Cream Cheese Buttercream (page 250) to top the cooled bars. Before the icing sets, cover with sprinkles, if desired.

I’ve always been enamored with iced oatmeal cookies, but they are often disappointing and overly sweet. I found soaking the raisins in rum helped, along with a little orange zest, cinnamon, and nutmeg. More rum in the icing helped too. This is one tasty pan of bars to spend the afternoon with.

Raisin Rum Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

BARS

¾ cup [105 g] raisins

⅓ cup [80 g] dark rum

2 cups [180 g] rolled oats

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

¾ cup [150 g] brown sugar

1 tablespoon orange zest

¾ teaspoon salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

ICING

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 to 4 tablespoons reserved rum or water

Pinch of salt

2 cups [240 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) FOR THE BARS In a small bowl, combine the raisins and rum. Let the raisins soak for 20 minutes. Strain the raisins and reserve the rum. 2) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 3) In a medium bowl, combine the oats, flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and nutmeg. 4) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated and brown sugars, orange zest, and salt and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and mix on medium speed until combined. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed until just combined, then add the soaked raisins and finish mixing on low speed. Using a spatula, stir the batter to incorporate any stray oats from the bottom of the mixing bowl. 5) Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. 6) Bake for 20 to 26 minutes, until the top is light golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

7) FOR THE ICING While the bars are baking, in a medium bowl, whisk together the butter, 2 tablespoons of reserved rum, and salt. Add the confectioners’ sugar and whisk until well combined and smooth. Add more rum if necessary, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the icing is thick but pourable. 8) Transfer the baking pan to a wire rack and immediately pour the icing over the warm bars, using an offset spatula to smooth it over the top. Let the bars cool to room temperature, then cut into squares and serve. The bars can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

What every hot summer day needs is creamy, berry-filled bars. I find adding a tablespoon (or two) of raspberry vodka to the filling adds a nice punch of raspberry flavor.

Creamy Raspberry Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

RASPBERRY FILLING

1 lb [455 g] fresh raspberries

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

2 tablespoons water

Two 14 oz [396 g] cans sweetened condensed milk

¼ cup [16 g] freeze-dried raspberry powder (see page 16)

3 tablespoons heavy cream

2 tablespoons raspberry vodka (optional)

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

CRUST

2 cups [284 g] all-purpose flour

1½ cups [150 g] almond flour or rolled oats

½ cup [100 g] brown sugar

¼ cup [50 g] granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cacao nibs

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE RASPBERRY FILLING In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the fresh berries, granulated sugar, and water. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until the berries have broken down and released their juices. Strain the berries over a large bowl through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the berries to release all their liquid. Discard the berries. 3) In the large bowl, whisk together the cooked berry juice, sweetened condensed milk, freeze-dried berry powder, heavy cream, raspberry vodka (if using), lemon juice, vanilla, and salt. 4) FOR THE CRUST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the all-purpose flour, almond flour, brown and granulated sugars, cacao nibs, baking soda, and salt and mix on low speed to combine. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until the mixture is crumbly. 5) TO ASSEMBLE Press half of the crust mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and carefully spread the filling over the crust, then sprinkle the remaining crust mixture evenly over the top. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the filling is set and does not jiggle, and the crumbly top is light golden brown. 6) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Place the pan in the refrigerator and chill for 4 to 6 hours. Slice the bars into squares and serve. The bars can be served cold or at room temperature and keep best in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

“There among the trees, / the yellow of the lemons is revealed; / and the chill in the heart / thaws, and deep in us / the golden horns of sunlight / pelt their songs,” Eugenio Montale observes in his poem “The Lemons,” and I wonder if it is trite to apply his words to lemon bars. But I can’t deny that on chilly winter afternoons, a burst of lemon glaze and a bite of lemon cake has this same effect on my soul.

Lemon Cake Squares

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL SQUARES

CAKE SQUARES

1¾ cups [250 g] all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking soda

14 tablespoons [196 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups [300 g] granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon zest

½ teaspoon salt

3 large eggs, at room temperature

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

⅓ cup [80 g] lemon juice

LEMON GLAZE

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Pinch of salt

2 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

2 cups [240 g] confectioners’ sugar

1) FOR THE CAKE SQUARES Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and baking soda. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated sugar, lemon zest, and salt and beat on medium speed until very light and fluffy, 4 to 6 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the eggs one at a time, beating on medium speed until incorporated and stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add the egg yolks, sour cream, and vanilla and mix on low speed to combine. Add half of the flour mixture and mix on low speed until combined. Add the lemon juice and mix on low speed until combined. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix on low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat for 15 to 20 seconds. 4) Pour the batter into the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to smooth the top. 5) Bake for 22 to 28 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean. 6) FOR THE LEMON GLAZE Meanwhile, make the glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk together the melted butter, salt, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice until combined. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix again until smooth. Add more lemon juice, 1 tablespoon at a time, to thin the glaze to your preferred consistency. The glaze should be thick but pourable. 7) Transfer the baking pan to a wire rack. Pour the glaze evenly over the warm cake and let set. Remove the cake from the pan using the parchment sling. Cut into squares and serve. Alternatively, the cake can be left in the pan and covered in plastic wrap, then stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

These cookie bars are based on breakfast cookies from 100 Morning Treats, which are a riff on the rye-cranberry chocolate chunk cookies from Dorie Greenspan’s excellent book Baking with Dorie. While I like both versions equally, baking them in a pan and then cutting them into squares saves a lot of time, and makes for a perfect after-school (or after-work) snack.

Chocolate Rye Cookie Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

1 cup [130 g] rye flour

¾ cup [68 g] old-fashioned rolled oats

¼ cup [36 g] whole-wheat flour

3 tablespoons white sesame seeds, plus more for sprinkling

2 tablespoons flaxseed

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

1 cup [200 g] brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

4 oz [113 g] semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

½ cup [70 g] King Arthur Orange Jammy Bits or dried cherries, chopped

½ cup [60 g] toasted pecans, chopped into bite-size pieces

⅓ cup [45 g] poppy seeds

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] pan or a 10 in [25 cm] square pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In the bowl of a food processor, process the all-purpose flour, rye flour, rolled oats, whole-wheat flour, white sesame seeds, flaxseed, baking powder, and baking soda until the rolled oats are broken down, about ten pulses. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the granulated and brown sugars and salt and continue beating until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs and vanilla, beating until incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the flour mixture on low speed, beating until incorporated. Add the chocolate, orange bits, pecans, and poppy seeds and mix until completely incorporated. 4) Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. Sprinkle with white sesame seeds. 5) Bake for 26 to 32 minutes, until the bars are golden and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center comes out with the slightest bit of crumb. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the bars from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Throughout my childhood, baked meringue was always a disappointment to me—I wanted cool, creamy whipped cream on those pies and bars, not overly sweet egg whites. My grandma did not share this opinion, however, and topped many of her pies with a thick layer. Now that I’m older, I’ve grown to appreciate meringue, even in baked form. I prefer it swirled into batter, as both the meringue and the batter benefit from intermingling; the batter is lightened slightly, and the sweetness of the meringue is tempered by the flavors in the batter.

Chocolate Meringue Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

BARS

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

1½ cups [300 g] brown sugar

¾ teaspoon salt

⅓ cup [33 g] Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 large egg, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups [213 g] all-purpose flour

ASSEMBLY

1 recipe Meringue (page 258), brown sugar variation

1 tablespoon finely ground espresso

⅓ cup [40 g] cacao nibs, finely chopped

1) FOR THE BARS Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, brown sugar, and salt. Remove from the heat and stir in the cocoa powder and vanilla. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the egg and baking powder and whisk to combine. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 3) Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. 4) FOR ASSEMBLY Make the meringue as directed, mixing in the ground espresso along with the vanilla, then stirring in the cacao nibs to combine. 5) Working quickly, spoon the meringue over the chocolate batter, then use an offset spatula to spread it evenly. Smooth the top. 6) Bake for 24 to 30 minutes, until the top of the meringue is browned and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the bars comes out clean (make sure to check the cake portion of the bars and not just the meringue). Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool. Once cooled, remove the bars from the pan using the parchment sling and slice into squares. The bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

When I first started baking, I found making pie bars to be less intimidating than making an actual pie, with results equally delicious and less time consuming. For this recipe, I streamlined a typical pecan pie by using a pat-in-the-pan crust for ease, sweetened condensed milk for rich flavor, and espresso to help cut some of the sweetness. There is also chocolate involved.

Pecan Espresso Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

CRUST

1 recipe Pat-in-the-Pan-Pie Dough (page 262), pecan variation

FILLING

One 14 oz [396 g] can sweetened condensed milk

1 large egg, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon Kahlúa

2 teaspoons finely ground espresso or coffee beans

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup [170 g] semisweet chocolate chips

1½ cups [180 g] pecans toasted and chopped into bite-size pieces

2 oz [57] bittersweet chocolate, chopped into bite-size pieces

1) FOR THE CRUST Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease an 8 in [20 cm] square baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) Transfer the dough into the prepared pan, smoothing it with your hands to an even thickness. 3) Bake the crust for 20 minutes, until the dough is no longer wet to the touch. 4) FOR THE FILLING While the crust bakes, in a medium bowl, whisk together the sweetened condensed milk, egg, vanilla, Kahlúa, ground espresso, and salt. 5) Remove the baking pan from the oven and scatter the semisweet chocolate chips over the top of the crust (be careful, the pan is hot!). Return to the oven for 2 minutes, then remove again and use the back of a spoon to spread the chocolate into an even layer. Scatter 1 cup [120 g] of the pecans over the chocolate.

6) Pour the filling evenly over the crust, then top with the remaining ½ cup [60 g] of pecans and the bittersweet chocolate. 7) Return the pan to the oven and bake for 24 to 30 minutes, until the filling barely jiggles in the center when the pan is shaken (if the filling makes a waving motion when you shake the pan, the bars need more time). 8) Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool. After 5 minutes, run a knife around the edges of the bars (if the sweetened condensed milk gets between the parchment lining and the pan at all, the bars will stick and can be hard to remove from the pan). Refrigerate the bars for 2 hours or covered overnight, then slice into squares and serve. The bars can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

I first encountered chocolate chip cookie bars at church-ordained potlucks; many, many families brought them. As a child, I avoided all the questionable casseroles lining the tables and skipped straight to the desserts, so I was very familiar with these bars and all their variations. Most of them were based on the iconic Nestlé Toll House recipe, and I made sure to look for bars that were golden yet soft, with chocolate chips dotted in the batter in a healthy ratio, and absolutely no walnuts. I’ve tried to re-create similar bars here, and I started with my own cookie base, tinkering until I got them just right.

Chocolate Chip Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

2½ cups [355 g] all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup [2 sticks or 227 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup [200 g] dark or light brown sugar

¾ cup [150 g] granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1½ cups [256 g] semisweet chocolate chips

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda. 3) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add the brown and granulated sugars and salt and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the eggs and vanilla, and mix until smooth. Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until just combined. Add the chocolate chips and mix on low speed. 4) Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and use an offset spatula to spread it evenly, or lightly grease a piece of plastic with nonstick cooking spray and use it to press the dough into the pan in an even layer. 5) Bake for 24 to 30 minutes, until the bars are golden brown and a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted into the bars comes out with the tiniest bit of crumb. 6) Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely. Use the parchment sling to gently lift the bars from the pan. Cut into squares and serve. The bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

VARIATION

M&M’s Bars: Replace the 1½ cups [256 g] of semisweet chocolate chips with 6 oz [170 g] of chopped M&M’s.

This is a recipe I made at several coffeehouse bakeries I worked at—customers couldn’t say no to the chocolate fudge center and oat crust, convincing themselves that the marriage of decadent filling to a “healthy” base was an acceptable reason to eat one every afternoon. I didn’t question their intuition. I’ve updated the recipe a bit throughout the years by adding more salt and cocoa powder for a more intense flavor.

Oatmeal Fudge Bars

MAKES • 12 LARGE OR 24 SMALL BARS

CRUST

2½ cups [250 g] rolled or quick oats

¾ cup [107 g] all-purpose flour

¾ cup [150 g] brown sugar

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter, cut into 1 in [2.5 cm] pieces, at room temperature

FILLING

12 tablespoons [1½ sticks or 170 g] unsalted butter

4 oz [113 g] semisweet chocolate chips

1 tablespoon Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 cup [200 g] granulated sugar

1 cup [200 g] brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon baking powder

1¼ cups [178 g] all-purpose flour

1) Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C]. Grease a 9 by 13 in [23 by 33 cm] baking pan and line with a parchment sling. 2) FOR THE CRUST In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the oats, flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add the butter, one piece at a time, beating until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Remove 1 cup [125 g] of the mixture and set it aside in a small bowl. Press the rest of the mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan. 3) FOR THE FILLING Place the butter and chocolate chips in a large, heavy-bottom saucepan set over low heat and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder and whisk until combined. Add the granulated and brown sugars, salt, and vanilla and whisk again. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Add the eggs and baking powder and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a spatula until just combined. 4) Pour the filling over the crust, then sprinkle the reserved crust mixture over the chocolate filling. It won’t completely cover it, but that’s okay. 5) Bake for 26 to 34 minutes, until the filling is set and the topping is golden brown. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool. Cut the bars into squares and serve. The bars can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days.