4Sleeping

Copenhagen's accommodation continues to smarten up, with a string of svelte, on-point hotels either recently opened or in the pipeline. These are a refreshing antidote to the city's plethora of soulless, business-geared hotels and 'boutique' digs in need of a refresh. Budget accommodation has also received a boost in recent years with hip, low-frill chains WakeUp Copenhagen (www.wakeupcopenhagen.com) and Generator Hostel (https://generatorhostels.com). Reserve rooms in advance, especially during the busy summer season.

Central Copenhagen

There's abundant, varied accommodation in the central area if you can cope with busy roads, tourist crowds and a general lack of cosiness. Waterside Christianshavn has contrastingly limited choice.

Copenhagen Downtown HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 23 21 10; www.copenhagendowntown.com; Vandkunsten 5; dm from 210kr; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, bKøbenhavn H)

Centrally located in the city's historic core, this hostel is the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Copenhagen on foot. It's a lively, retro-style place with a community feel, along with a colourful bar and cafe with happy-hour offerings and free dinner nightly (when you book accommodation via the hostel website). Other freebies include live music and social events.

Bike rental is available, and the optional breakfast buffet will set you back 70kr.

Cabinn CityHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %33 46 16 16; www.cabinn.com; Mitchellsgade 14; s/d 495/645kr; iW; g5C, 34, 66, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

If you're not intent on surrounding yourself with fancy Danish design, but just want somewhere clean and relatively comfortable to lie your head, Cabinn may be your hotel in shining armour. Rooms are small but functional, making clever use of the limited space. And it's close to the action.

Danhostel Copenhagen CityHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 85 85; www.danhostel.dk; HC Andersens Blvd 50; dm/d from 205/590kr; iW; g5C, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

Step into the lobby here with its cafe-bar and it looks more like a hotel than a hostel. Set in a tower block overlooking the harbour just south of Tivoli Gardens (did we mention the views?), the dorms and private rooms are all bright, light and modern, each with bathroom. Laundry facilities available on-site. Book ahead.

oIbsens HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 19 13; www.ibsenshotel.dk; Vendersgade 23; d from 975kr; iW; g5C, 37, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Ibsens is a sound choice for discerning sophisticates. Local creativity underscores everything from the striking textiles to the artwork; the inviting lobby comes complete with industrial French lamps and timber tables from veteran Copenhagen cabinetmakers Jul. Møller & Søns. The rooms themselves are minimalist yet plush, with muted tones, designer fixtures and blissful beds. Book early for the best rates.

oHotel AlexandraBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 74 44 44; www.hotelalexandra.dk; HC Andersens Blvd 8; d from 1180kr; piW; g2A, 10, 250S, bVesterport)

The furniture of Danish design deities such as Arne Jacobsen, Ole Wanscher and Kaare Klint graces the interiors of the crisp, refined yet homey Alexandra. Rooms are effortlessly cool, each decked out in a mix of mid-century Danish pieces. Purists can opt for one of the suites, which are dedicated to single Danish designers. On-site parking costs 180kr per day.

Although the hotel faces a busy road, it's a quick walk from the cosy Latin Quarter.

oHotel DanmarkBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 48 06; www.brochner-hotels.com; Vester Voldgade 89; d from 1210kr; pW; g12, 33, bKøbenhavn H)

The revamped Danmark is a svelte boutique hideaway steps away from major sights. Though most of its 88 rooms are rather petite, they're all flawlessly chic and ensconcing, with heavenly beds, tactile fabrics and restrained, elegant Danish furniture. Interestingly, the muted colour accents – which range from sage green to cobalt blue – are inspired by the nearby Thorvaldsen Museum.

The hotel's entry-level bunk-bed rooms offer the same luxe style and amenities featured in higher-category rooms, and the optional breakfast (195kr, half-price for children) is delicious and mostly organic. Extra perks include complimentary evening wine and a rooftop terrace. Rooms are generally cheaper on weekends. On-site parking costs 215kr per day.

Hotel Kong ArthurHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 12 12; www.kongarthur.dk; Nørre Søgade 11; d from 1180kr; piW; g5C, 37, mNørreport, bNørreport)

The 155-room Kong Arthur merges understated elegance with quirky period details, such as suits of armour. Rooms are a soothing white, splashed with contemporary art and include attractive bathrooms. Some overlook the waters of Peblinge Sø. The in-house spa – complete with hot tub, sauna and aroma steam bath – is free for guests who book directly on the hotel website.

Hotel SP34BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 30 00; www.brochner-hotels.com; Sankt Peders Stræde 34; d from 1140kr; W; g5C, 6A, bVesterport)

A popular choice for design-savvy urbanites. Tans and subtle pastels underline the communal areas, among them a plush, light-drenched lounge, modernist-inspired reading room and svelte lobby bar. The 118 rooms are smart yet simple, with an austere, grey-on-grey colour palette warmed by timber, brass and leather accents. Nibble on organic produce at breakfast, and sip complimentary vino between 5pm and 6pm.

On-site facilities also include a small movie-screening room and the commendable Nordic restaurant Väkst. Best of all, the property sits on the edge of the vibrant Latin Quarter. Book well ahead.

SquareHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 38 12 00; www.thesquarecopenhagen.com; Rådhuspladsen 14; d from 1225kr; aiW; g2A, 12, 26, 250S, bVesterport)

Fitted out with Arne Jacobsen chairs and red leather, the Square is an excellent three-star hotel with designer flair and amenities generally associated with greater expense and more stiffness. Standard rooms are a little small but well equipped, and some have sterling views of Rådhuspladsen – plus all the city's main sights are within walking distance.

First Hotel Kong FrederikHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 59 02; www.firsthotels.com; Vester Voldgade 25; d from 1160kr; iW; g2A, 10, 250S, bVesterport)

There's something rather baronial about black-and-gold Kong Frederik, its interiors a mix of dark woods, antique furnishings, and paintings of Danish royalty and hunting scenes. The well-appointed rooms include wonderfully comfortable beds with fluffy duvets and free bottled water and soft drinks in the mini bar. Staff are friendly and helpful, and it's within easy walking distance of the lively Latin Quarter.

Hotel Skt PetriHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 45 91 00; www.hotelsktpetri.com; Krystalgade 22; rm from 1125kr; iW; g14, 150S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

What was once a department store is now the Skt Petri. Despite its size – the lobby looks like a furniture showroom – the place radiates warmth. The rooms are snug and comfortable, with tactile materials and a charcoal palette softened by blonde-timber flooring and rich splashes of deep green, purple, blue and bronze. Request a room on level four or higher for the best views.

oHotel NimbBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %88 70 00 00; www.nimb.dk; Bernstorffsgade 5; r from 2800kr; piW; g2A, 5C, 9A, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

Part of historic Tivoli Gardens, this boutique belle offers 17 individually styled rooms and suites that fuse clean lines, beautiful art and antiques, luxury fabrics and tech perks, such as Nespresso coffee machines and Bang & Olufsen TVs and sound systems. All rooms except three also feature a fireplace, while all bar one come with views over the amusement park.

In-house perks include a savvy cocktail lounge with crackling fire and herbivore-focused hotspot restaurant Gemyse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %88 70 00 00; www.nimb.dk; Tivoli Gardens, Bernstorffsgade 5; 6-course menu 250kr, add meat/fish per serving 105kr; hnoon-11pm; Wv; g2A, 5C, 9A, 12, 14, 26, 250S, bKøbenhavn H). Book rooms well in advance for the best prices.

Hotel d'AngleterreHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 00 95; www.dangleterre.com; Kongens Nytorv 34; r from 3250kr; aiWs; mKongens Nytorv)

Hitting the scene in 1755, the neoclassical d'Angleterre is Copenhagen's most glamorous slumber palace. Renovated in 2013, it's once again fit for royalty and mere mortal sybarites. Regal portraits, fireplaces and art nouveau flourishes keep things suitably posh in the public areas, while the hotel's rooms and suites deliver contemporary twists on classic luxury, with powdery accents, luxurious fabrics and marble bathrooms.

The hotel's rebirth also includes an extraordinary 2,000 sq ft tile-and-marble pool, part of the hotel's luxury spa. Other hotel perks include the city's first dedicated champagne bar, and Michelin-starred nosh spot Marchal.

Scandic Palace HotelHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 40 50; www.scandichotels.com; Rådhuspladsen 57; d from 1500kr; aiW; g10, 12, 14, 26, 33, bKøbenhavn H)

Bang on Rådhuspladsen and housed in a landmark 1910 Anton Rosen–designed building, the Palace skillfully balances historic architecture with contemporary detailing. Rooms are elegantly pared back, with sleek bathrooms and shades of pastel or grey breaking up the Scandinavian white.

Nyhavn & the Royal Quarter

oGenerator HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 77 54 00; www.generatorhostel.com; Adelgade 5-7; dm/d from 130/595kr; iW; g350S, 1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

A solid choice for 'cheap chic', upbeat, design-literate Generator sits on the edge of the city's medieval core. It's kitted out with designer furniture, slick communal areas (including a bar and outdoor terrace) and friendly, young staff. While the rooms can be a little small, all are bright and modern, with bathrooms in private rooms and dorms.

Bedwood HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 42 61 46; www.bedwood.dk; Nyhavn 63C; dm from 200kr; W; g1A, 26, 66, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Located on the famous Nyhavn waterfront, this cosy hostel occupies a historic wood-beamed warehouse dating from 1756. The dorms range in size from six to 12 beds, and each bed is handmade with a nifty curtain for privacy and bedside power socket. On-site facilities include a small communal kitchen, laundry and bike rental (handy for cycling the nearby Harbour Circle route).

The optional breakfast costs 55kr, and reception is open around the clock.

oBabette GuldsmedenBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 15 00; www.guldsmedenhotels.com; Bredgade 78; d from 995kr; iW#; g1A)S

The 98-room Babette is part of the superb Guldsmeden hotel chain, with the same (unexpectedly) harmonious blend of Nordic and Indonesian design aesthetics. Though on the smaller side, the rooms are inviting and tactile, with four-poster beds, sheepskin throws and vibrant artworks. There's a Balinese-inspired rooftop spa and sauna, tranquil leafy courtyard, buzzing bar popular with locals, as well as a good, mostly organic restaurant.

On the downside, the rooms facing the street can be noisy on weekends.

Copenhagen StrandHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 48 99 00; www.copenhagenstrand.dk; Havnegade 37; r from 1035kr; iW; g66, mKongens Nytorv)S

In a converted 19th-century warehouse, the appealing Strand overlooks Copenhagen Harbour. Rooms are classically styled in wood, brass and shades of greys and blue. Standard rooms are smallish but cosy; the executive rooms and suites come with water views. Bike rental available.

Wakeup CopenhagenHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %44 80 00 00; www.wakeupcopenhagen.com; Borgergade 9; r 450-1500kr; W; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

An easy walk from Nyhavn, Rosenborg Slot and some of the city's best shopping, this is one of two Wakeup Copenhagen branches in town, well known for offering style on a budget (assuming you've booked online and in advance). The foyer is spacious and design-literate, while the 498 rooms are small yet quiet, clean and sharp, with flat-screen TVs and capsule-like showers.

Wakeup's original branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %44 80 00 00; www.wakeupcopenhagen.com; Carsten Niebuhrs Gade 11; r 450-1500kr; iW; g34, 66, bKøbenhavn H) is located closer to Tivoli Gardens.

71 Nyhavn HotelHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 43 62 00; www.71nyhavnhotel.com; Nyhavn 71; r from 1700kr; aiW#; g66, mKongens Nytorv)

Housed in two striking 200-year-old canal-side warehouses, atmospheric 71 Nyhavn offers great views of both the harbour and Nyhavn canal. Rooms facing Nyhavn are quite small, while those without the magical view compensate with more space. The hotel is popular with business travellers, and therefore can be a bargain on weekends.

Christianshavn

CPH LivingBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 60 85 46; www.cphliving.com; Langebrogade 1A; r incl breakfast from 1380kr; W; g5C, 12, mChristiania)

Located on a converted freight boat, Copenhagen's only floating hotel consists of 12 stylish, contemporary rooms with harbour and city views. Perks include modern bathrooms with rain shower head, heated floors and a communal sun deck for summertime lounging. Breakfast is a simple continental affair, while the central location makes it walkable to the city centre, Christianshavn and the harbour pools at Islands Brygge.

Vesterbro

Handily close to Central Station, Vesterbro has hotspot restaurants, cafes and bars, though its eastern section feels more seedy. There are two Cabinn-chain budget hotels near Forum Metro.

oUrban HouseHOSTEL, HOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %89 88 32 69; www.urbanhouse.me; Colbjørnsensgade 5-11, Vesterbro; dm/d from 140/530kr; iW; g2A, 5C, 9A, 10, 14, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

This huge hostel spans a trio of historic buildings close to Central Station and Vesterbro's on-trend venues. Slumber options range from single rooms to dorms with bunks for up to 12 people; all have private bathrooms. Bed linen and towels are included in the price, while in-house facilities include a communal kitchen, laundry, games room, small cinema and even a tattoo parlour!

Bike rental is available, and regular activities include free daily guided walks, early morning jogs, salsa nights and live music. Note that there is no reception; check-in is automated.

Andersen HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 31 43 44; www.andersen-hotel.dk; Helgolandsgade 12, Vesterbro; d from 1210kr; W; g6A, 26, bKøbenhavn H)

White-on-white gives way to bold, playful design at Andersen. Rooms are simple yet skilfully fitted out with smile-inducing details, from geometric blankets and cushions, to Mad Men–style rugs and chairs, and text wall murals. We also love the Molten Brown bathroom amenities and complimentary evening wine (between 5pm and 6pm). If you're a light sleeper, request a room facing the internal courtyard.

The hotel is a quick walk from Central Station and Vesterbro's popular bars, restaurants and boutiques.

Bertrams GuldsmedenBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 20 81 07; www.guldsmedenhotels.com; Vesterbrogade 107, Vesterbro; d from 1190kr; iW; g3A, 6A)S

Like the rest of the gorgeous Guldsmeden hotels (there are several in town), Bertrams features raw stone, bare wood, crisp white linen, spectacular bath tubs and exotic Bali-style decor. The hotel is eminently comfortable, with underfloor heating and plenty of squishy sofas and comfortable seating spaces; the breakfast is also a slice above the norm.

The Guldsmeden hotels are all Green Globe certified, which means tasty organic food and an active recycling policy.

Hotel AnsgarHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 21 21 96; www.ansgarhotel.dk; Colbjørnsensgade 29, Vesterbro; d from 945kr; piW#; g2A, 5C, 9A, 10, 14, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

Around the corner from the main train station, rooms here have a white-on-white, somewhat clinical look, though most are spacious with large bathrooms. Several rooms overlook the attractive outside terrace with its bubbling fountain; from others you can spy nearby Tivoli. Bikes are available to rent, and the management go out of their way to advise and assist.

Breakfast, not included in the room rate, is an option at 95kr per person.

TiffanyHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 21 80 50; www.hoteltiffany.dk; Colbjørnsensgade 28, Vesterbro; d from 895kr; iW; g2A, 5C, 9A, 10, 14, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

The Tiffany, which proudly bills itself as a 'Sweet Hotel', is a pleasant little place filled with character. Nifty extras in the 30 rooms include Nespresso machine and kitchenette equipped with fridge, microwave oven and toaster. Service is kind and considerate, and it's an easy walk from Central Station, Tivoli Gardens and the cool and fashionable Vesterbro.

Axel GuldsmedenBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 31 32 66; www.guldsmedenhotels.com; Helgolandsgade 7-11, Vesterbro; d from 1395kr; iW; g6A, 26, bKøbenhavn H)S

Part of the reputable ecohotel chain, Axel Guldsmeden puts a Nordic spin on Balinese chic. Rooms are spacious and plushly decorated, oriental carpets contrasting against parquet flooring and pale paintwork. There's a luxe spa on site with sauna, Jacuzzi, steam bath and cold tub, plus lushly planted garden and fireplace for warming your toes on chilly evenings. The breakfast buffet is organic.

Always check for last-minute deals, which can see rooms offered for as low as 895kr.

5Eating

Beneath Copenhagen's galaxy of Michelin stars is a growing number of hot-spots serving innovative contemporary Danish fare at affordable prices. The international food scene is also lifting its game, with a spate of new places serving authentic dishes like pho, ramen and tacos made using top-notch produce. Keeping them company are veritable city institutions serving classic Danish fare, including smørrebrød.

Central Copenhagen

oCafé HalvvejenDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 91 12; www.cafehalvvejen.dk; Krystalgade 11; dishes 55-125kr; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; g5A, 6A, 14, 150S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Cosy, creaky, wood-panelled Café Halvvejen channels a fast-fading Copenhagen. The menu is unapologetically hearty, generous and cheap for this part of town, with faithful open sandwiches, frikadeller (Danish meatballs) and pariserbøf (minced beef steak with egg and onions). The deceptively named miniplatte offers a satisfying overview of classic Nordic flavours. Whatever you choose, wash it down with a (very generous) shot of akvavit.

Café Halvvejen has just a handful of tables (book or go early) and the kitchen is only open between noon and 3pm.

oTorvehallerne KBHMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.torvehallernekbh.dk; Israels Plads, Nørreport; dishes from around 50kr; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; g15E, 150S, 185, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Food market Torvehallerne KBH is an essential stop on the Copenhagen foodie trail. A delicious ode to the fresh, the tasty and the artisanal, the market's beautiful stalls peddle everything from seasonal herbs and berries to smoked meats, seafood and cheeses, smørrebrød, fresh pasta and hand-brewed coffee. You could easily spend an hour or more exploring its twin halls.

As well as a market, you can eat here too; several of the vendors also prepare inexpensive meals.

oGasoline GrillBURGERS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/gasolinegrill; Landgreven 10; burgers 75kr; hdaily 11am until sold out; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Some of the city's most famous chefs join the queue at Gasoline, a petrol station-turned-burger takeaway. The menu is refreshingly straightforward: four burgers (one vegetarian), fries with a choice of toppings and homemade dips, and two desserts. The meat is organic and freshly ground daily, the buns brioche, and the flavour rich and decadent without the post-feed grease and guilt.

The place closes when the burgers run out; usually around 6pm. (Go at lunch to avoid disappointment.)

Atelier SeptemberCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26 29 57 53; www.atelierseptember.dk; Gothersgade 30; dishes 30-125kr; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, from 10am Sun; g350S, mKongens Nytorv)

It might look like a Vogue photo shoot with its white-on-white interior and vintage glass ceiling (typical of old Danish pharmacies), but Atelier September is very much a cafe. Kitted out in vintage exhibition posters and communal tables, it sells gorgeous espresso and simple, inspired edibles. Standouts include sliced avocado on rye bread, topped with lemon zest, chives, paprika and peppery olive oil.

PalæoHEALTH FOOD€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %73 70 97 01; www.palaeo.dk; Pilestræde 32; dishes 59-85kr; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; W; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Fast-food, Flintstones-style is what you get at Palæo, a trendy eat-in/takeaway joint peddling so-called 'primal gastronomy'. Dishes are inspired by the Paleolithic diet, which means carb-light creations like hot dogs and especially popular wraps which ditch bread for egg-based wrappers. But if you're thinking mung-bean mediocrity, think again: behind the menu is Michelin-starred chef Thomas Rode Andersen.

Far's DrengDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 86 89 89; www.farsdreng.com; Ny Adelgade; smørrebrod 70kr, salad from 55kr; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat, 9.30am-4pm Sun; W; mKongens Nytorv)

On two snug floors decorated with low-slung lamps and sheepskin-covered chairs, bustling Far's Dreng pulls in young, hip crowds with affordable, tasty cafe grub that's freshly made. The menu is a short, straightforward affair, with an emphasis on smørrebrod made using quality, often organic ingredients. Simply tick your choices on the menu and hand it over at the counter.

Lillian's SmørrebrødDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 20 66; www.facebook.com/lillianssmorrebrod; Vester Voldgade 108; smørrebrød from 17kr; h6am-2pm Mon-Fri; g1A, 2A, 9A)

Tiny 1970s throwback Lillian's is one of the best and least costly smørrebrød places in town. Decked out in white deli-style tiles, with kitsch artwork and just a handful of tables, its generous, open-face sandwiches are classic: think marinated herring, chicken salad and roast beef with remoulade. However, while the coffee here is also a bargain, you'll get a much better cup elsewhere.

Restaurant KronborgDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 07 08; www.restaurantkronborg.dk/en; Brolæggerstræde 12; smørrebrød 69-139kr; h11am-5pm; W; g14)

Behind its hulking, centuries-old walls, cosy, wood-beamed Kronborg serves up classic Danish fare. Head here for the impressive choice of lunchtime smørrebrød, appropriately served on Royal Copenhagen china. Favourites include the sweet, succulent Brantevik herring, marinated in sugar, vinegar and allspice and topped with fresh herbs. Toast to tradition with an akvavit or a craft brew from Copenhagen's own Nørrebro Bryghus.

Cock's & CowsBURGERS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 69 60 00; www.cocksandcows.dk; Gammel Strand 34; burgers 89-129kr; h11.30am-9.30pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66)

When burger lust hits, satiate your urges at Cock's. In a setting best described as American diner meets Danish modernist (red leather booths against Poul Henningsen lamps), energetic staff deliver fresh, made-from-scratch burgers that are generous and tasty. The meat is Danish and charcoal-grilled, and there's both a veggie and a vegan burger. Don't forget a side of the onion rings.

DØPHOT DOGS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 20 40 25; www.døp.dk; Købmagergade 50; hot dogs from 35kr; h11am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; g14, mNørrebro, bNørrebro)S

Danes love a good pølse (sausage), and hot-dog vans are ubiquitous across Copenhagen. DØP is the best, with a van right beside Rundetårn (Round Tower). Everything here is organic, from the meat and vegetables to the toppings. Options range from a classic Danish roasted hot dog with mustard, ketchup, remoulade, pickles and onions both fresh and fried, to a new-school vegan tofu version.

oSchønnemannDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 07 85; www.restaurantschonnemann.dk; Hauser Plads 16; smørrebrød 75-185kr; h11.30am-5pm Mon-Sat; W; g6A, 42, 150S, 184, 185, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

A veritable institution, Schønnemann has been lining bellies with smørrebrød and snaps since 1877. Originally a hit with farmers in town selling their produce, the restaurant's current fan base includes revered chefs like René Redzepi; try the smørrebrød named after him: smoked halibut with creamed cucumber, radishes and chives on caraway bread.

oPlutoDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 16 00 16; http://restaurantpluto.dk/forside; Borgergade 16; mains 135-225kr; h5.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; W; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Loud, convivial Pluto is not short of friends, and for good reason: superfun soundtrack, attentive staff and beautiful, simple dishes by respected local chef Rasmus Oubæk. Whether it's flawlessly seared cod with seasonal carrots or a side of new potatoes, funky truffles and green beans in a mussel broth, the family-style menu is all about letting the produce sing.

The bistro has a solid selection of charcuterie and smoked meats, and some interesting natural wines, as well as bar seating (especially great for solo diners). The kitchen closes at 10pm Monday to Thursday, 11pm Friday and Saturday, and 9.30pm Sunday.

oSlurp Ramen JointRAMEN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 70 80 83; http://slurpramen.dk; Nansensgade 90; ramen 130-135kr; h5-10pm Tue-Sat, also noon-2.30pm Fri & Sat; g5C, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

That white-tile, pink-neon Slurp serves Copenhagen's best ramen makes sense: head chef Philipp Inreiter once worked at cult-status Tokyo ramen joint Hototogisu. The deeply flavoursome chicken-and-pork bone broth is cooked for more than eight hours, while noodles are made in-house with a pinch of freshly ground rye for added depth. Best of the trio of options (which includes a vegetarian ramen) is the shoyu.

Slurp is small, hugely popular and has a no-reservations policy: go as close to opening as possible, get your name on the waiting list and grab a pre-feed drink at one of the bars further down the street.

Royal Smushi CaféDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 11 22; www.royalsmushicafe.dk; Amagertorv 6; 2/3/4 pieces of smushi 98/148/195kr; h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Here, the traditional components of the hearty Danish smørrebrød are reimagined in a delicate and intricate style, inspired by sushi. Breakfast and stunning desserts are also available, as well as a range of teas and speciality coffees. The cafe is accessed through a charming stone courtyard, which is a lovely spot for dining in warmer weather.

The MarketASIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 70 24 35; http://themarketcph.dk; Antonigade 2; mains 155-350kr, 12-course menu 595kr; h11.30am-4pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 10.30am Fri & Sat, to 9.30pm Sun; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Dark, svelte and contemporary (we love the dramatically back-lit bar and organically shaped crockery), The Market pumps out vibrant pan-Asian dishes like delicate brown-crab salad with apple, dashi and avocado, or expertly grilled poussin dressed in coconut sauce and fresh mango slithers. The sushi is commendable, particularly the maki. Book ahead, especially if dining on a Friday or Saturday night.

CantinaITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %88 16 99 95; http://cantinacph.dk; Borgergade 2; mains 225-265kr, pizzas 125-185kr; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Prolific restaurateurs Henrik Laszlo and Mikkel Egelund are behind this buzzing, semi-industrial space. A hybrid Italian bistro-bar, its small plates and pastas are especially good, the latter offering the likes of properly al dente macaroni with slow-cooked rabbit, sage and parmesan. The decent, Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas are served all day – handy if you're having a super-late lunch or very early dinner.

The kitchen closes at 10.30pm, with pizzas served until 11pm on Friday and Saturday.

Kanal CaféenDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 57 70; www.kanalcafeen.dk; Frederiksholms Kanal 18; smørrebrød 64-127kr, platters per person from 205kr; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3pm Sat; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37)

Famed for its gruff staff and excellent herring, this cosy, nautically themed old-timer comes with a shaded summertime pontoon right on the canal. Order some Linie Aquavit (snaps matured at sea in oak-sherry casks) and the Kanal Platter, an epic, hunger-busting feast of Danish classics, including pickled herring, crumbed plaice, and roast pork with pickled red cabbage.

Tackle it like a Dane by eating the pickled herring first (with the lard, capers and onions), followed by the fried plaice, then the meats and cheese.

Bistro PastisFRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 44 11; http://bistro-pastis.dk; Gothersgade 52; salads & sandwiches 115-145kr, mains 165-275kr; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Paging both Paris and NYC with its lipstick-red banquettes and white subway tiles, upbeat Pastis is perfect for a post-shopping Gallic bite or a more substantial dinner. Feel fancy over a light salade chévre chaud (grilled goat's cheese salad with pickled walnuts and raisins) or delve into bistro mains like cognac-laced steak tartare or warming bouillabaisse (fish soup). Great house-made pommes frites too.

Note that food is served until 10.30pm Sunday to Thursday and until 11pm Friday and Saturday.

42° RawVEGETARIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 12 32 10; www.42raw.com; Pilestræde 32; meals 79-139kr; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; Wv; g350S, mKongens Nytorv)S

Treat your body at this hip, healthy eat-in or takeaway. The deal is raw food, served in vibrant, textured dishes like 'raw' lasagne, Thai noodles, and burgers made with organic, gluten-free buns. If it's still AM, fuel up with one of the breakfast bowls, whose combos include granola with banana, matcha, coconut, avocado, blueberries and goji berries.

Restaurant KrebsegaardenINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20 12 40 15; http://krebsegaarden.dk/en/home; Studiestræde 17; mains 195-225kr; h6-10pm Tue-Sat; g5A, 6A, 10, 14, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Petite Krebsegaarden offers a unique dining experience by drawing its culinary inspiration from the works displayed in Gallery Krebsen, located in the beautiful adjoining courtyard. The result is rotating menus directly influenced by the current exhibition as well as the nationality, heritage and preferred flavours of the artist on show. Indeed, even the decor is affected by the exhibitions, meaning an ever-changing atmosphere.

oBrorNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 17 59 99; www.restaurantbror.dk; Sankt Peders Stræde 24A; 4-/5-course menu 450/625kr; h5.30pm-midnight Wed-Sun; W; g2A, 5C, 6A, 250S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Founded by former Noma sous-chefs Sam Nutter and Viktor Wågam, this tiny, split-level bolthole mightn't look like much, but it delivers technically brilliant dishes using superlative Nordic produce. Wines are natural, organic or biodynamic, and expertly paired with beautifully balanced creations like Danish peas with crab meat, crab gel and kombucha, or chocolate mousse with chamomile gel and sorbet, blackberries and tuile.

One of the more unique staples is the 'bull's balls' – deep-fried bull testicles with a wonderfully herbaceous tartare sauce. Last seating is at 9.30pm; book ahead.

oRestaurant MesDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25 36 51 81; https://restaurant-mes.dk; Jarmers Plads 1; 5-course menu 350kr; h5.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W; g2A, 5C, 6A, 250S, bVesterport)

This rising star burst onto the Copenhagen dining scene in 2017. Owned by chef Mads Rye Magnusson (former chef at Michelin-three-starred Geranium), it's an intimate, refreshingly whimsical space, complete with moss feature wall and graffiti-soaked restrooms by local artist Fy. Most impressive is the menu, driven by market produce and the creative whims of its young, highly talented head chef.

oHøstNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %89 93 84 09; http://hostvakst.dk; Nørre Farimagsgade 41; 3-/5-course menu 350/450kr; h5.30pm-midnight, last order 9.30pm; g37, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Høst's phenomenal popularity is easy to understand: award-winning interiors and New Nordic food that's equally fabulous and filling. The set menu is superb, with three smaller 'surprise dishes' thrown in and evocative creations like baked flounder with roasted chicken skin, shrimp, peas and an apple-vinegar fish stock, or a joyful rose-hip sorbet paired with Danish strawberries, a green strawberry puree, meringue and herbs.

If you're watching your pennies, keep an eye on the price of the wines by the glass, some of which can add significantly to the bill. Always book ahead, especially later in the week.

OrangerietDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 13 07; www.restaurant-orangeriet.dk; Kronprinsessegade 13; smørrebrod 75kr, 3-/4-/5-course dinner 395/475/525kr; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; g350S, 26)

Take an airy, vintage conservatory, add elegant, seasonal menus, and you have Orangeriet. Skirting the eastern edge of Kongens Have, its contemporary creations focus on simplicity and premium produce. Savour clean, intriguing dishes like smoked mackerel with horseradish mayonnaise, pickled green strawberries, lettuce and herbs. Lunch is a simpler affair of picture-perfect smørrebrød, best nibbled in the restaurant garden when the weather behaves.

Book ahead.

Marv & BenNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 91 01 91; www.marvogben.dk; Snaregade 4; small dishes 85-135kr, 4/6-course menu 400/600kr; h5.30pm-1am Tue-Sat; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37)

Cellar restaurant 'Marrow & Bone' has been repeatedly awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in recognition of its value for money. Its New Nordic menu can be approached in various ways: a la carte or as four- or six-course tasting menus. Dishes are imaginative and evocative, celebrating Nordic landscapes and moods in creations like hay-smoked mackerel with chamomile or squid with kelp and buttermilk.

The kitchen closes at 10pm Tuesday to Thursday and at 11pm Friday and Saturday. Book ahead.

UformelNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 99 91 11; www.uformel.dk; Studiestræde 69; dishes 120kr; h5.30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g2A, 10, 12, 250S, bVesterport)

The edgy younger brother of Michelin-starred restaurant Formel B, Uformel (Informal) offers a casual take on New Nordic cuisine. Expect an ever-changing menu of local, seasonal ingredients transformed into impressive dishes. Diners can choose several small plates to create their own tasting menu, or opt for the set menus, which includes a four-course option with matching wines (800kr).

Though billed as informal, the dining room is undisputedly sleek; so dress up. The kitchen closes at 10pm Sunday to Thursday and 11pm Friday and Saturday.

ClouDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %36 16 30 00; http://restaurant-clou.dk; Borgergade 16; tasting menu 1200kr, wine pairings 1100kr; h6-9pm Tue-Sat; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Michelin-starred Clou luxuriates in its large, linen-clad tables and upholstered armchairs. That said, the menu is a contemporary affair, with both Nordic and Italo-French influences driving seasonal concoctions like brown crab with cucumber, sea salad and mint, or artichoke with dried corn, orange zest and aged cheese. À la carte options are available, though the tasting menu offers a fuller appreciation of Clou's brilliance.

If the budget permits, succumb to the exceptional wine parings. Heading the kitchen is talented young chef Jonathan K Berntsen, who opened the restaurant with his twin brother Alexander, a self-taught sommelier. The family theme extends to the silverware, which belonged to the siblings' grandparents. Book ahead.

MadklubbenSTEAK€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 33 34; www.madklubben.dk; Pilestræde 23; 3-course menu 300kr; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Looking super-cute with its black-and-salmon booths, exposed brickwork and subway-tiled walls, Madklubben puts a fun, fashionable twist of the steakhouse. Succulent slabs of beef – either corn or grass fed – are the house speciality, glazed in brown butter, lard and garlic, cooked medium (unless requested otherwise) and served with your choice of sauce. Pescatarians needn't fret, with options like shellfish bisque and pan-fried fish.

WORTH A TRIP

SØLLERØD KRO

Not all of Copenhagen's Michelin stars are inner-city dwellers. In Holte, an unassuming outer suburb 19km north of the city centre, Søllerød Kro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45 80 25 05; www.soelleroed-kro.dk; Søllerødvej 35, Holte; 2-/3-course lunch 395/495kr, 4-/6-course dinner 875/1095kr; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Wed-Sun; g195, bHolte, then) is a one-star Michelin restaurant set in a beautiful 17th-century thatched-roof inn. The kitchen's creations are nothing short of extraordinary, pushing superlative produce to enlightened heights.

Nyhavn & the Royal Quarter

oDistrict TonkinVIETNAMESE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %60 88 86 98; http://district-tonkin.com; Dronningens Tværgade 12; baguettes 54-62kr, soups & salads 68-120kr; h11am-9.30pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

With a playful interior channelling the streets of Vietnam, casual, convivial District Tonkin peddles fresh, gut-filling bánh mì (Vietnamese baguettes), stuffed with coriander, fresh chilli and combos like Vietnamese sausage with marinated pork, homemade pâté and BBQ sauce. The menu also includes gorgeous, less-common Vietnamese soups, among them tomato-based xíu mai (with pork and mushroom meatballs).

The aromatic beef pho is served from 5.30pm only.

oAOCNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 11 45; www.restaurantaoc.dk; Dronningens Tværgade 2; tasting menus 1500-1800kr; h6.30pm-12.30am Tue-Sat; W; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

In the vaulted cellar of a 17th-century mansion, this intimate, two-starred Michelin standout thrills with evocative, often surprising Nordic flavour combinations, scents and textures. Here, sea scallops might conspire with fermented asparagus, while grilled cherries share the plate with smoked marrow and pigeon breast. Diners choose from two tasting menus, and reservations should be made around a week in advance, especially for late-week dining.

The kitchen closes at 9pm.

oGeistDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 37 13; http://restaurantgeist.dk; Kongens Nytorv 8; plates 85-225kr; h6pm-1am daily; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Chic, monochromatic Geist is owned by celebrity chef Bo Bech, a man driven by experimentation. His long list of small plates pairs Nordic and non-Nordic ingredients in unexpected, often thrilling ways. Create your tasting menu from dishes like grilled avocado with green almonds and curry, turbot and fennel ravioli with gruyère, or out-of-the-box desserts like summer blueberries with black olives and vanilla ice cream.

oStudioDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 14 88 08; www.thestandardcph.dk; Havnegade 44; degustation menus from 1000kr; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sat, also noon-3.30pm Sat; g66, fNyhavn, mKongens Nytorv)

Brainchild of Noma co-founder Claus Meyer and former Noma sous-chef Torsten Vildgaard, Studio bagged its first Michelin star within months of opening. Rooted in Nordic traditions, the open kitchen revels in ingredients and influences from further afield. Whether it's sourdough æbleskiver (Danish pancake puffs) filled with truffle and cheese, or grilled pigeon paired with warm cherries cooked in foraged spices, Studio smashes it.

The restaurant is located in the harbourside Standard, an iconic functionalist building that's also home to Claus Meyer's smørrebrød eatery Almanak.

oRebelDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 32 09; www.restaurantrebel.dk; Store Kongensgade 52; small dishes 115-175kr; h5.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Smart, split-level Rebel dishes out arresting, modern Danish grub without the fanfare. The dining space is relatively small, simple and unadorned, giving all the attention to inspired creations like braised octopus with crispy chicken, sage and mushroom foam, or a ravioli of fried wild mushrooms, snail, ginger and soy. Trust the sommelier's wine choices, which include extraordinary Old and New World drops.

Expect to order three to four sharing plates per diner, and note that the kitchen closes at 10pm.

DamindraJAPANESE€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 33 75; www.damindra.dk; Holbergsgade 26; lunch dishes 125-398kr, dinner tasting menu min 2 people 750kr; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sat; W; g66, mKongens Nytorv)

One of Copenhagen's lesser-known talents, chef Taka Nishimura (formerly of Nobu in Melbourne) turns raw Nordic ingredients into obscenely fresh, arresting Japanese morsels. The evening ‘Chef’s Choice’ set sushi menu (398kr) offers a satisfying window into the kitchen's prowess, though cashed-up foodies should seriously consider the eight-course tour de force.

A simpler takeaway menu is available if you prefer nibbling on pretty Nyhavn canal, a chopstick flick away.

KokkerietDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 15 27 77; www.kokkeriet.dk; Kronprinsessegade 64; small/large tasting menu 900/1200kr; h6pm-1am Mon-Sat; g1A, 26)

Tucked away in Copenhagen's historic Nyboder neighbourhood, intimate, stylish Kokkeriet proudly holds one Michelin star. Beautiful local ingredients drive the tasting menus, which offer contemporary, sharply executed takes on traditional Danish cooking. Herbivores don't miss out either, with a dedicated vegan tasting menu. On Tuesday evenings, the restaurant serves a menu comprising experimental dishes the chefs are testing out.

CAKES & BAKES

Where to head for fresh bread or the most heavenly cinnamon rolls? There's so much choice. Small cosy Sankt Peders Bageri ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 11 29; Sankt Pedersstræde 29; baked goods 6-45kr; h6am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun; g5A, 6A, 14, 10) goes with tradition dating back to 1652, Brødflov ( GOOGLE MAP ; %31 31 97 10; www.broedflov.dk; Falkoner Alle 34, Frederiksberg; pastries from 20kr, sandwiches from 50kr; h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; g8A, mFrederiksberg) is a fine Frederiksberg choice, while multi-branch organic bakery Meyers Bageri ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clausmeyer.dk; Store Kongensgade 46; pastries from 14kr; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv) gains from celebrity ownership – Claus Meyers being the founding father of the New Nordic food movement. Compromising waistlines since 1870, patisserie La Glace ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 46 46; www.laglace.dk; Skoubogade 3; cake slices 57kr, pastries from 36kr; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; Wc; g14) tempts with classic valnøddekage (walnut cake slices). And Bertels Salon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 00 33; www.bertelskager.dk; Kompagnistrædet 5; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; W; g14) is reckoned to serve the city's best cheesecake (card payment only).

Slotsholmen

oTårnetDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 37 31 00; http://taarnet.dk/restauranten; Christiansborg Slotsplads, Christiansborg Slot; lunch smørrebrød 85-135kr, dinner mains 235kr; h11.30am-11pm Tue-Sun, kitchen closes 10pm; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek)

Book ahead for lunch at Tårnet, owned by prolific restaurateur Rasmus Bo Bojesen and memorably set inside Christiansborg Slot's commanding tower. Lunch here is better value than dinner, with superlative, contemporary smørrebrød that is among the city's best. While the general guideline is two smørrebrød per person, some of the à la carte versions are quite substantial (especially the tartare), so check before ordering.

Christianshavn

oLa BanchinaCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %31 26 65 61; www.labanchina.dk; Refshalevej 141A; mains 70-90kr; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; g9A, fRefshaleøen)

There are only two daily mains at this tiny lo-fi shack, cooked beautifully and served on paper plates with little fanfare. The real magic is the setting, in a small harbour cove with picnic tables and a wooden pier where diners dip their feet while sipping decent vino, tucking into grub like tender barbecued salmon, and watching the summer sun sink over Copenhagen.

Copenhagen Street FoodSTREET FOOD€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.copenhagenstreetfood.dk; Warehouse 7 & 8, Trangravsvej 14; dishes from 50kr; hnoon-9pm Mon-Wed & Sun, to 10pm Thu-Sat; v; g66, fOperaen)S

Take a disused warehouse, pack it with artisan food trucks and stalls, hipster baristas and a chilled-out bar or two, and you have this hot little newcomer. The emphasis is on fresh, affordable grub, from handmade pasta and tacos, to pulled-pork burgers and organic koldskål (cold buttermilk dessert). If the weather's good, grab a sun chair and catch some rays by the harbour.

A re-imagined version of the Copenhagen Street Food (complete with cultural events) is due to open 2.5km further north at Refshalevej 167A at Easter 2018.

MorgenstedetVEGETARIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fabriksområdet 134, Christiania; dishes 50-110kr; hnoon-9pm Tue-Sun; Wv; g9A, mChristianshavn)S

A homey, hippy bolthole in the heart of Christiania, Morgenstedet offers a short, simple blackboard menu. There's usually one soup, plus two or three mains with a choice of side salads. Whether it's cauliflower soup with chickpeas and herbs or creamy potato gratin, options are always vegetarian, organic and delicious, not to mention best devoured in the blissful cafe garden. Cash only.

108DANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 96 32 92; www.108.dk; Strandgade 108; dishes 95-185kr, sharing dishes for 2 people 300-450kr; hrestaurant 5pm-midnight, cafe 8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; g9A)S

In a soaring, concrete-pillared warehouse, 108 offers a more casual, accessible take on New Nordic cuisine than its world-renowned sibling Noma. The family-style sharing-plate menu is all about seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, farmed or foraged, preserved, fermented and pickled. While not all dishes hit the mark, many leave a lasting impression. Three dishes per diner should satiate most appetites.

Although the glazed pork here is legendary, don't overlook the seafood dishes, which might include silky crayfish served in a green tomato and crayfish-head broth, or fluffy monkfish glazed in a piquant, earthy sauce of fermented bread and mushrooms. Attached to the restaurant is 108's small cafe, The Corner, serving coffee and house-made pastries in the morning, a short lunch menu (95kr to 135kr) and one main in the evening (100kr). Wines are also served from midday.

Cafe WilderDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 54 71 83; www.cafewilder.dk; Wildersgade 56; lunch 119-149kr, dinner mains 179-209kr; h9am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)

With its crisp white linen and circular sidewalk tables, this corner classic feels like a Parisian neighbourhood bistro. It's actually one of Copenhagen's oldest cafes, featured several times in the cult TV series Borgen. Relive your favourite scenes over beautiful lunchtime smørrebrød (open sandwiches) or Franco-Danish dinner mains like tender Danish pork with sweet-potato croquette and a blackcurrant sauce.

oKadeauNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 25 22 23; www.kadeau.dk; Wildersgade 10B; tasting menu 1800kr; h6.30pm-midnight Wed-Fri, noon-4pm & 6.30pm-midnight Sat; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)

The big-city spin-off of the Bornholm original, this Michelin-two-starred standout has firmly established itself as one of Scandinavia's top New Nordic restaurants. Whether it's salted and burnt scallops drizzled with clam bouillon, or an unexpected combination of toffee, crème fraiche, potatoes, radish and elderflower, each dish evokes Nordic flavours, moods and landscapes with extraordinary creativity and skill.

BarrSCANDINAVIAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 96 32 93; http://restaurantbarr.com; Strandgade 93; small dishes 75-240kr, 4-course menu 600kr; h5pm-midnight Tue-Thu, from noon Sat & Sat; W; g9A, 66, fNyhavn)S

Meaning 'barley' in old Norse, oak-lined Barr offers polished, produce-driven takes on old North Sea traditions. The small plates are a little hit and miss, with standouts including sourdough pancakes with caviar. You'll need about four small plates per person; a better-value option is to savour the pancakes and fill up on the fantastic schnitzel or frikadeller (Danish meatballs).

The selection of craft beers is outstanding, as are the attentive, well-trained staff. The restaurant is a joint venture between renowned New Nordic chefs René Redzepi and Thorsten Schmidt. Redzepi's involvement seems apt given that the space was the former home of his ground-breaking restaurant Noma. The kitchen closes at 9.30pm; book ahead.

KanalenDANISH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 95 13 30; www.restaurant-kanalen.dk; Wilders Plads 2; lunch dishes 95-195kr, dinner mains 225kr; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat; g2A, 9A, 37, 66, 350S, mChristianshavn)

Kanalen offers an irresistible combination: beautiful, modern Danish food and a canal-side location. While the lunch menu delivers competent renditions of Danish classics, it's the dinner menu that really stands out. Expect seamless, sophisticated dishes where tender pork finds new complexity with green peaches and foie gras, or where summertime blackberries intrigue in the company of liquorice and estragon. Book ahead.

Nørrebro & Østerbro

MirabelleCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 35 47 24; http://mirabelle-bakery.dk; Guldbergsgade 29, Nørrebro; pastries from 28kr, sandwiches 65kr, lunch & dinner dishes 115-175kr; h7am-10pm; W; g3A, 5C)

Decked out with bold geometric floor tiles, artisan bakery-cafe Mirabelle is owned by Michelin-lauded chef Christian Puglisi, who also owns popular restaurant Bæst next door. It's a slick, contemporary spot for made-from-scratch pastries, simple breakfast bites like eggs Benedict, and a short menu of Italo-centric lunch and dinner dishes, including house-made charcuterie, cheeses and organic-flour pasta. Good coffee to boot.

oOysters & GrillSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 20 61 71; www.cofoco.dk/da/restauranter/oysters-and-grill; Sjællandsgade 1B, Nørrebro; mains 165-245kr; h5.30pm-midnight daily; g5C)

Finger-licking surf and turf is what you get at this rocking, unpretentious neighbourhood favourite, complete with kitsch vinyl tablecloths and a fun, casual vibe. The shellfish is fantastically fresh and, unlike most places, ordered by weight, which means you don't need to pick at measly servings. Meat lovers won't to be disappointed either, with cuts that are lustfully succulent.

The kitchen closes at 9.45pm; book ahead.

oManfreds og VinDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %36 96 65 93; www.manfreds.dk; Jægersborggade 40, Nørrebro; small plates 75-90kr, 7-course tasting menu 285kr; hnoon-3.30pm & 5-10pm daily; Wv; g8A)S

Convivial Manfreds is the ideal local bistro, with passionate staffers, boutique natural wines and a regularly changing menu that favours organic produce (most from the restaurant's own farm) cooked simply and sensationally. Swoon over nuanced, gorgeously textured dishes like grilled spring onion served with pistachio purée, crunchy breadcrumbs and salted egg yolk. If you're hungry and curious, opt for the good-value seven-dish menu.

The option of bar seating makes it a good spot for solo diners.

FischerITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 42 39 64; www.hosfischer.dk; Victor Borges Plads 12, Østerbro; lunch mains 129-189kr, dinner mains 239kr; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W; g3A)

A reformed workingmen's bar, neighbourly Fischer serves Italian-inspired soul food like grilled flatbread topped with tomato, goat's cheese, dates and basil, or house-made maltagliati pasta with rabbit, mint and chilli. That it's seriously good isn't surprising considering that owner and head chef David Fischer worked the kitchen at Rome's Michelin-starred La Pergola. Breakfast options feature some over-the-border dishes, including a hearty croque madame.

The kitchen closes at 10pm Monday to Saturday and at 9pm on Sunday.

PixieCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %39 30 03 05; www.cafepixie.dk; Løgstørgade 2, Østerbro; dishes 55-195kr; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; W; g1A)

Strung with colourful lights, low-rise boho cafe Pixie looks straight off the streets of Buenos Aires. Inside it's a hyggelig affair, with mismatching furniture, candlelight and soulful tunes on the speakers. Grub is fresh, unfussy cafe fare, from organic scrambled eggs with pico de gallo to salads, an organic-beef burger and home-baked cookies.

Laundromat CafeCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 35 26 72; www.thelaundromatcafe.com; Elmegade 15, Nørrebro; dishes 48-128kr; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; g3A, 5C, 350S)

A cosy cafe and laundrette in one, this retro-licious Nørrebro institution is never short of loyal locals. It's a popular brunch spot, with both 'clean' (vegetarian) and 'dirty' (carnivorous) brunch platters, strong coffee and fresh juices. Breakfast options include oatmeal, spinach omelette, and pancakes with homemade maple syrup, while all-day comforters span hamburgers (veggie option included), sandwiches, soup and chilli con carne.

oRelæNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %36 96 66 09; www.restaurant-relae.dk; Jægersborggade 41, Nørrebrø; 4-/7-course menu 475/895kr; h5-10pm Tue-Sat, also noon-1.30pm Fri & Sat; g8A, 5C)

Established by prolific chef Christian Puglisi, Relæ was one of the first restaurants in town to offer superlative New Nordic cooking without all the designer fanfare. One Michelin star later, it remains a low-fuss place, where diners set their own table, pour their own wine and swoon over soul-lifting dishes focused on seasonality, simplicity and (mostly) organic produce. Book ahead.

oGeraniumNEW NORDIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 96 00 20; www.geranium.dk; Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, Østerbro; lunch or dinner tasting menu 2000kr, wine/juice pairings 1400/700kr; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Wed-Sat; Wv; g14)S

On the 8th floor of Parken Stadium, Geranium is the only restaurant in town sporting three Michelin stars. At the helm is Bocuse d'Or prize-winning chef Rasmus Kofoed, who transforms local ingredients into edible Nordic artworks like lobster paired with milk and the juice of fermented carrots and sea buckthorn, or cabbage sprouts and chicken served with quail egg, cep mushrooms and hay beer.

The tasting menu comprises more than 20 dishes, and those not wanting to sample the award-winning wine list can opt for equally enlightened juice pairings. Reservations essential.

Kiin KiinTHAI€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 35 75 55; www.kiin.dk; Guldbergsgade 21, Nørrebro; 4-/6-course menu 495/975kr, wine/juice menu 255/195kr; h5.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, latest reservation 8.30pm; g5C)

Kiin Kiin serves clever, contemporary Thai. It's the only Thai restaurant in Europe to hold a Michelin star, and one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants in Copenhagen open on Mondays. The dining experience begins with street-food-style snacks in the lounge, then continues in the dining room with six beautifully and sometimes unusually presented courses packed with vibrant flavours like tamarind, lemongrass and galangal.

Kiin Kiin offers a set menu only, with the option of wine or juice accompaniments. The regular menu is six courses, and the early bird theatre menu (from 5.30pm to 7.30pm) consists of four courses – both menus include pre-meal nibbles.

Vesterbro & Frederiksberg

oWestMarketMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 50 00 05; www.westmarket.dk; Vesterbrogade 97, Vesterbro; meals from 50kr; hbakeries & coffee shops 8am-7pm, food stalls 10am-10pm; Wc; g6A)

From dodgy shopping arcade to cool street-food hub, WestMarket peddles grub from all corners of the globe: from ramen, bao and lobster rolls to risotto, bubbling pizza and tapas. For a Scandi experience, hit Kød & Bajer ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 54 60 88; www.koedogbajer.dk; Vesterbrogade 97, Stall C12, WestMarket; h11am-9pm; g6A) for harder-to-find Nordic craft beers and snacks like dried moose, bear and elk sausages, then settle down at Gros ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %60 45 11 02; www.groshverdagskost.dk; Vesterbrogade 97, Stall C6, WestMarket; meals 98kr; h11am-9pm; Wv; g6A) for a modern take on retro Danish dining classics.

Abundant seating and space make WestMarket more family-friendly than its city-centre rival, Torvehallerne KBH.

Hija de SanchezMEXICAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %31 18 52 03; www.hijadesanchez.dk; Slagterboderne 8, Vesterbro; 3 tacos 100kr; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun; g1A, 10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

Hija de Sanchez serves up fresh, authentic tacos in the Meatpacking District. Expect three rotating varieties daily, from traditional choices like carnitas and al pastor to 'El Paul' – crispy fish skin with gooseberry salsa. There's always a vegetarian option, as well as homemade Mexican beverages like tepache (fermented pineapple juice). Chicago-native chef-owner Rosio Sánchez hails from renowned restaurant Noma, ie serious culinary cred.

Her original Hija de Sanchez location at Torvehallerne market operates from April to October.

Siciliansk IsICE CREAM€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 22 30 89; http://sicilianskis.dk; Skydebanegade 3, Vesterbro; ice cream from 25kr; hnoon-9pm mid-May–Aug, 1-6pm Apr–mid-May & Sep; g10, 14)

Having honed their skills in Sicily, gelato meisters Michael and David churn out Copenhagen's (dare we say Denmark's) best gelato. Lick yourself out on smooth, naturally flavoured options like strawberry, Sicilian blood orange and coconut. For a surprisingly smashing combo, try the lakrids (liquorice) with the Sicilian mandarin. Buonissimo!

Chicky GrillDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 22 66 96; Halmtorvet 21, Vesterbro; mains from 65kr; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; g10, 14, bKøbenhavn H)

Despite its hip Kødbyen location, this unceremonious, wood-panelled, super-local bar and grill flies the flag for old-school comfort grub. Prices are low and portions are generous, from fried chicken and burgers to classic Danish staples like flæskesteg (roast pork), pariserbøf (minced beef patty, fried egg, onion, capers and pickled beetroot on rye bread) and stjerneskud (breaded and steamed fish fillets on white bread).

Mad & KaffeCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.madogkaffe.dk; Sønder Blvd 68, Vesterbro; breakfast 78-148kr; lunch 65-124kr; h8.30am-8pm; W; g1A, 10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

With its string of cosy rooms and summertime outdoor tables, casual 'Food & Coffee' is especially popular for its breakfast; choose three, five or seven items to create your morning meal. We prefer lunching here; the smørrebrød options are gorgeous and generous, with combos like avocado with cottage cheese, baked almonds and pickled red onions.

Beer fans will appreciate the handful of interesting local brews. Consider avoiding weekends, when the wait for a table can be painfully long.

DyrehavenDANISH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dyrehavenkbh.dk; Sønder Blvd 72, Vesterbro; breakfast 30-140kr, lunch 70-95kr, dinner mains 120-195kr; h8.30am-2am Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W; g1A, 10, 14)

Once a spit-and-sawdust working-class bar (the vinyl booths tell the story), Dyrehaven is now a second home for Vesterbro's cool young bohemians. Squeeze into your skinny jeans and join them for cheap drinks, simple tasty grub (the 'Kartoffelmad' egg open sandwich is a classic, with home-made mayo and fried shallots) and DJ-spun tunes on Friday and Saturday nights (summer excepted).

oPaté PatéINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %39 69 55 57; www.patepate.dk; Slagterboderne 1, Vesterbro; small dishes 95-150kr, 7/9-plate tasting menu 325/385kr; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, 9am-11pm Fri, 11am-11pm Sat; W; g10, 14)

This pâté factory-turned-restaurant/wine bar gives a modern twist to Euro classics. The competent, regularly changing menu is designed for sharing, with smaller dishes like organic Danish burrata with salted courgette, spring onions, chilli, basil and walnuts, or veal tartare with harissa, mustard-pickled shallots and dukkah. Hip and bustling, yet refreshingly convivial, bonus extras include clued-in staff, a diverse wine list, and solo-diner-friendly bar seating.

Øl & BrødDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 31 44 22; www.ologbrod.dk; Viktoriagade 6; smørrebrod 85-165kr, dinner mains 150-250kr; hnoon-5pm Tue & Wed, to 10pm Thu & Sun, to 11pm Fri & Sat Apr-Dec, reduced hours Jan-Mar; W; g6A, 9A, 10, 14, 26, bKøbenhavn H)

Modernist Danish furniture and a muted palette of greys and greens offer the perfect backdrop to high-end, contemporary lunchtime smørrebrød. Raise your glass of (craft) beer to beautiful combinations like smoked mackerel with scrambled egg and chives or dill-pickled herring with potatoes and mustard. The dinner menu offers revisited Danish mains; think whole butter-fried flounder with parsley sauce and potatoes.

The restaurant claims Denmark's largest collection of akvavit and snaps. Take note that the kitchen closes at 4pm on Tuesday, 8.30pm on Thursday and Sunday, and 9.30pm Friday and Saturday.

PonyNEW NORDIC€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 22 10 00; www.ponykbh.dk; Vesterbrogade 135, Vesterbro; 2/3/4-course menu 325/425/485kr; h5.30-10pm Tue-Sun; g6A)

This is the cheaper bistro spin-off of Copenhagen's Michelin-starred Kadeau. While the New Nordic grub here is simpler, it's no less nuanced and seasonal; think cured brill with gooseberries and dried brill roe, or roasted wolf fish with summer cabbage, black cabbage, nasturtium and crispy grains. The on-point wines are organic and from smaller producers, and the vibe intimate and convivial.

Book ahead, especially on Friday and Saturday.

WarPigsBARBECUE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %43 48 48 48; http://warpigs.dk; Flæsketorvet 25; meat per ¼lb from 45kr; h11:30am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; W; g10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

Loud, rocking WarPigs satiates carnivores with lusty, American-style barbecue from Europe's biggest meat smokers (capable of smoking up to two tons of meat a day!). Order at the counter, where you can mix and match meats and sides to create a personalised feed. There's also a kicking selection of beers brewed in-house; the place doubles as a brewpub part-owned by local microbrewery Mikkeller.

If you're not a beer fan, opt for the all-you-can-drink organic soda fountain, which features a string of out-of-the-box flavours. The kitchen closes at 10pm.

CofocoEUROPEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 60 60; http://cofoco.dk; Abel Cathrines Gade 7, Vesterbro; 4/5/6-course menu 295/335/375kr; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat; g6A, 26, 10, 14, bKøbenhavn H)

One of several high-quality, design-savvy, affordable restaurants owned by the same team, Cofoco offers a glam setting and a selection of creative Nordic-Mediterranean dishes to customise your own set menu. Expect nuanced, artfully presented creations like mussel soup with baked hake and pickled gooseberries or flank of turkey with mushroom risotto and burnt corn. Perfect for gourmands on a (relative) budget.

The kitchen closes at 9.45pm.

GranolaCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %40 82 41 20; www.granola.dk; Værndemsvej 5, Frederiksberg; lunch 80-165kr, dinner mains 145-220kr; h7am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; g9A, 26, 31, 71)

On one of Copenhagen's most continental streets, Granola packs a cool Vesterbro crowd with its retro mix of industrial lamps, terrazzo flooring and ‘General Store’ cabinets. While the menu doesn't pack any serious punches, it does offer reliable comfort grub, from morning oatmeal, croque monsieur and pancakes to bistro staples like salade au chèvre chaud and steak-frites. Head in early on weekends.

The kitchen closes at 10pm Monday to Saturday.

Kødbyens FiskebarSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 15 56 56; www.fiskebaren.dk; Flæsketorvet 100; mains 195-275kr; h5.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 11.30am-2am Fri & Sat, 11.30am-midnight Sun; W; g10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

Concrete floors, industrial tiling and a 1000-litre aquarium meet impeccable seafood at this ever-popular, buzzy haunt, slap bang in Vesterbro's trendy Kødbyen (Meatpacking District). Ditch the mains for three or four starters. Standouts include the oysters and lobster with beer meringue, as well as the dainty, delicate razor clams, served on a crisp rice-paper 'shell'.

While you can book a table, dining (and slurping cocktails) at the Manhattan-style bar is much more fun. The kitchen closes at 11pm.

Mielcke & HurtigkarlINTERNATIONAL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %38 34 84 36; www.mielcke-hurtigkarl.dk; Frederiksberg Runddel 1, Frederiksberg; tasting menus 950-1100kr; h6-9pm Tue-Sat; Wv; g6A, 8A, 18, 26)

Set in a former royal summer house adorned with contemporary, botanical murals, Mielcke & Hurtigkarl is as ethereal as its menu is heavenly. Executive chef Jakob Mielcke's inspired approach to local and global ingredients shines through in bold, whimsical creations that fuse Western and Eastern flavours. The result: dishes like flawlessly seared sweetbread paired with eggplant puree, ponzu and crisp, sea buckthorn-spiked tuile.

From Tuesday to Thursday, a 800kr tasting menu is also offered. Book ahead.