Copenhagen
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Around Copenhagen
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Copenhagen
Area 1980 sq km / Pop 1.7 million
Why Go?
Copenhagen is the coolest kid on the Nordic block. Edgier than Stockholm and worldlier than Oslo, the Danish capital gives Scandinavia the X factor. Just ask style bibles Monocle and Wallpaper magazines, which fawn over its industrial-chic bar, design and fashion scenes, and culinary revolution. This was home to world-famous New Nordic pioneer Noma (due to reopen in 2018), just one of 15 Michelin-starred restaurants in town – not bad for a city of 1.2 million.
Yet Copenhagen is more than just seasonal cocktails and geometric threads. A royal capital with almost nine centuries under its svelte belt, it’s equally well versed when it comes to world-class museums and storybook streetscapes. Its cobbled, bike-friendly streets are a hyggelig (cosy) concoction of sherbet-hued town houses, craft studios and candlelit cafes. Add to this its compact size, and you have what is possibly Europe’s most seamless urban experience.
When to Go
Arguably, the best time to drop by is from May to August, when the days are long and the mood upbeat. Events such as Distortion in June, Copenhagen Jazz Festival in July, and Strøm and Copenhagen Pride in August give the city a fabulous, festive vibe. However, in summer the tourist crowds are at their worst, accommodation prices peak, and gastronomes should note that many top restaurants close for several weeks in July and August.
Golden foliage and cultural events make autumn appealing, while late November and December counter the chill with Yuletide markets, twinkling lights and gløgg (mulled wine).
Best Places to Stay
History
Copenhagen was founded in 1167 by tough-as-nails Bishop Absalon, who erected a fortress on Slotsholmen Island, fortifying a small and previously unprotected harbourside village.
After the fortification was built, the village grew in importance and took on the name Kømandshavn (Merchant's Port), which was later condensed to København. Absalon's fortress stood until 1369, when it was destroyed in an attack on the town by the powerful Hanseatic states.
In 1376 construction began on a new Slotsholmen fortification, Copenhagen Castle, and in 1416 King Erik of Pomerania took up residence at the site, marking the beginning of Copenhagen's role as the capital of Denmark.
Still, it wasn't until the reign of Christian IV, in the first half of the 17th century, that the city was endowed with much of its splendour. A lofty Renaissance designer, Christian IV began an ambitious construction scheme, building two new castles and many other grand edifices, including the Rundetårn observatory and the glorious Børsen, Europe's first stock exchange.
In 1711 the bubonic plague reduced Copenhagen's population of 60,000 by one-third. Tragic fires, one in 1728 and the other in 1795, wiped out large tracts of the city, including most of its timber buildings. However, the worst scourge in the city's history is generally regarded as the unprovoked British bombardment of Copenhagen in 1807, during the Napoleonic Wars. The attack targeted the heart of the city, inflicting numerous civilian casualties and setting hundreds of homes, churches and public buildings on fire.
Copenhagen flourished once again in the 19th and 20th centuries, expanding beyond its old city walls and establishing a reputation as a centre for culture, liberal politics and the arts. Dark times were experienced with the Nazi occupation during WWII, although the city managed to emerge relatively unscathed.
During the war and in the economic depression that had preceded it, many Copenhagen neighbourhoods had deteriorated into slums. In 1948 an ambitious urban renewal policy called the 'Finger Plan' was adopted; this redeveloped much of the city, creating new housing projects interspaced with green areas of parks and recreational facilities that spread out like fingers from the city centre.
A rebellion by young people disillusioned with growing materialism, the nuclear arms race and the authoritarian educational system took hold in Copenhagen in the 1960s. Student protests broke out on the university campus and squatters occupied vacant buildings around the city. It came to a head in 1971 when protesters tore down the fence of an abandoned military camp at the east side of Christianshavn and began an occupation of the 41-hectare site, naming this settlement Christiania.
In recent decades, major infrastructure projects, enlightened city planning and a wave of grassroots creativity have helped transform Copenhagen from a provincial Scandinavian capital into an enlightened international trendsetter. Not surprisingly, the city never fails to rank highly in quality-of-life surveys; in 2016 influential New York–based magazine Metropolis declared it the world's most liveable city.
Copenhagen Highlights
1 Nationalmuseet Learning about the Vikings at Denmark's National Museum
2 Louisiana Getting inspired at this extraordinary museum of modern and contemporary art
3 Torvehallerne KBH Enjoying all things seasonal, artisanal and scrumptious at this celebrated market
4 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Understanding the classical and the classics at this glorious art museum
5 Tivoli Gardens Indulging in thrills and spills at this vintage amusement park
6 Rosenborg Slot Believing that fairy tales can come true at this magnificent Renaissance palace
7 Christiania Letting your hair down in this free-spirited neighbourhood
8 Statens Museum for Kunst Seeking out an impressive collection of paintings at Denmark's preeminent art museum.
9 Christiansborg Slot Checking out Copenhagen's architectural phoenix
a Culinary Thrills Treating your taste buds at restaurants like Kadeau
1Sights
One of the great things about Copenhagen is its size. Virtually all of Copenhagen's major sightseeing attractions – Tivoli Gardens, Nationalmuseet, Statens Museum for Kunst, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Christiansborg, Christiania, Nyhavn, Marmorkirken, Amalienborg and Rosenborg – are in or close to the medieval city centre. Only the perennially disappointing Little Mermaid lies outside of the city proper, on the harbourfront.
COPENHAGEN FOR FREE
Copenhagen has a reputation for being heavy on the budget, but many of its top sights are free for at least one day of the week. So zip up the wallet and head to the following spots, all of which are free all week unless a particular day is specified.
AChurches, including Vor Frue Kirke and Marmorkirken
ANy Carlsberg Glyptotek (free on Tuesday only)
AThorvaldsens Museum (free on Wednesday only)
Central Copenhagen
The eminently walkable central area stretches from the historic Tivoli pleasure garden to Kongens Nytorv and classic canal-side Nyhavn. Crossing the centre west–east is a long string of five brashly commercial pedestrianised shopping streets known collectively as Strøget. Strøget starts from statue-rich Rådhuspladsen, a busy square where Copenhagen's former west gate once stood. To the north of Strøget is the atmospheric Latin Quarter (
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; 
g5C, 6A, 14, 
mNørreport, 
bNørreport), so nicknamed for the old campus of Copenhagen University (founded 1479) where Latin was once widely spoken. Here you'll find many historical sights, old pastel-hued buildings and postcard-pretty nooks like mid-17th century Gråbrødretorv (Grey Friars’ Square). For panoramic city views, climb Rundetårn, Europe's oldest functioning observatory-tower. North of the Latin Quarter are the parks and art collections of Nørreport. South of Strøget, cross the canal to the attraction-packed Slotsholmen area.
oTivoli GardensAMUSEMENT PARK
(
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; 
%33 15 10 01; www.tivoli.dk; Vesterbrogade 3; adult/child under 8yr 120kr/free, Fri after 7pm 160kr/free; 
h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat early Apr-late Sep, reduced hours rest of year; 
c; g2A, 5C, 9A, 12, 14, 26, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)
Dating from 1843, tasteful Tivoli wins fans with its dreamy whirl of amusement rides, twinkling pavilions, carnival games and open-air stage shows. Visitors can ride the renovated, century-old roller coaster, enjoy the famous Saturday evening fireworks display or just soak up the story-book atmosphere. A good tip is to go on Friday during summer when the open-air Plænen stage hosts free rock concerts by Danish bands (and the occasional international superstar) from 10pm – go early if it's a big-name act.
Indeed, Tivoli is at its most romantic after dusk, when the fairy lights are switched on, cultural activities unfold and the clock tower of the neighbouring Rådhus soars in the moonlight like the set of a classic Disney film.
Each of Tivoli's numerous entertainment venues has a different character. Perhaps best known is the open-air Pantomime Theatre, built in 1874 by Vilhelm Dahlerup, the Copenhagen architect who also designed the royal theatre. Tivoli's large concert hall features performances by international symphony orchestras and ballet troupes, as well as popular musicians. While the numerous open-air performances are free of charge, there's usually an admission fee for the indoor performances – check the website for venue details, line-ups and prices.
Amusement ride tickets cost 25kr (some rides require up to three tickets), making the unlimited-ride wristband (230kr) better value in most cases.
Outside the main summer season, Tivoli also opens for approximately three weeks around Halloween and from mid-November to early January for Christmas. For up-to-date opening times, see the Tivoli website.
oNy Carlsberg GlyptotekMUSEUM
(
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; %33 41 81 41; www.glyptoteket.dk; Dantes Plads 7, HC Andersens Blvd; adult/child 95kr/free, Tue free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun, until 10pm Thu; g1A, 2A, 9A, 37, bKøbenhavn H)
Fin de siècle architecture meets with an eclectic mix of art at Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. The collection is divided into two parts: Northern Europe's largest booty of antiquities, and an elegant collection of 19th-century Danish and French art. The latter includes the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of France and no less than 47 Gauguin paintings. These are displayed along with works by greats like Cézanne, Van Gogh, Pissarro, Monet and Renoir.
At the museum's heart is a delightful glass-domed conservatory, replete with palm trees and a gorgeous cafe that's especially welcoming in the Danish winter.
An added treat for visitors is the August/September Summer Concert Series (admission around 75kr). Classical music is performed in the museum's concert hall, which is evocatively lined by life-size statues of Roman patricians. Concerts usually commence at noon on Sunday.
oNationalmuseetMUSEUM
(National Museum;
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; %33 13 44 11; www.natmus.dk; Ny Vestergade 10; adult/child 75kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, also open Mon Jul & Aug; c; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, bKøbenhavn H)
For a crash course in Danish history and culture, spend an afternoon at Denmark's National Museum. It has first claims on virtually every antiquity uncovered on Danish soil, including Stone Age tools, Viking weaponry, rune stones and medieval jewellery. Among the many highlights is a finely crafted 3500-year-old Sun Chariot, as well as bronze lurs (horns), some of which date back 3000 years and are still capable of blowing a tune.
You'll find sections related to the Norse and Inuit people of Greenland, and an evocative exhibition called Stories of Denmark, covering Danish history from 1660 to 2000. Among the highlights here are recreated living quarters (among them an 18th-century Copenhagen apartment) and a whimsical collection of toys, including a veritable village of doll houses. The museum also has an excellent Children's Museum (
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; www.natmus.dk; Nationalmuseet, Ny Vestergade 10; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; c; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, bKøbenhavn H), as well as a classical antiquities section complete with Egyptian mummies.
For a little cerebral relief, find refuge in the well-stocked gift shop.
Rådhuspladsen, the square outside, features several statues. Top-hatted Hans Christian Andersen sits gazing towards Tivoli. A fountain features a dragon-versus-bull fight. And on a tall pillar are a pair of Viking statues playing the lur, a ceremonial Norse Bronze Age instrument.
RundetårnHISTORIC BUILDING
(Round Tower;
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; %33 73 03 73; www.rundetaarn.dk; Købmagergade 52; adult/child 25/5kr; h10am-8pm May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year, observatory times vary; g14, mNørreport, bNørreport)
Haul yourself to the top of the 34.8m-high red-brick 'Round Tower' and you will be following in the footsteps of such luminaries as King Christian IV, who built it in 1642 as an observatory for the famous astronomer Tycho Brahe. You'll also be following in the hoofsteps of Tsar Peter the Great's horse and, according to legend, the track marks of a car that made its way up the tower's spiral ramp in 1902.
Copenhagen Central
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
RådhusHISTORIC BUILDING
(City Hall;
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; %33 66 25 86; www.kk.dk; Rådhuspladsen; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat; g2A, 12, 14, 26, 33, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)
F
Completed in 1905, Copenhagen's national Romantic-style city hall is the work of architect Martin Nyrop. Inside is the curious Jens Olsen's World Clock (
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; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat; g2A, 12, 14, 26, 33, 250S, bKøbenhavn H), designed by astro mechanic Jens Olsen (1872–1945) and built at a cost of one million kroner. It displays not only local time, but also solar time, sidereal time, sunrises and sunsets, firmament and celestial-pole migration, planet revolutions, the Gregorian calendar and even changing holidays! You can also climb the 105m city hall tower (
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; 30kr; htour 11am & 2pm Mon-Fri, noon Sat, minimum 4 people) for a commanding view.
Vor Frue KirkeCATHEDRAL
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; %33 15 10 78; www.koebenhavnsdomkirke.dk; Nørregade 8; h8am-5pm, closed during services & concerts; g14, mNørreport, bNørreport)
Founded in 1191 and rebuilt three times after devastating fires, Copenhagen's neoclassical cathedral dates from 1829. Designed by CF Hansen, its lofty, vaulted interior houses Bertel Thorvaldsen's statues of Christ and the apostles, completed in 1839 and considered his most acclaimed works. In fact, the sculptor's depiction of Christ, with comforting open arms, remains the most popular worldwide model for statues of Jesus. In May 2004, the cathedral hosted the wedding of Crown Prince Frederik to Australian Mary Donaldson.
Dansk Arkitektur CenterGALLERY
(Danish Architecture Centre; DAC;
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; %32 57 19 30; www.dac.dk; Frederiksholms Kanal 30; exhibition adult/child 40kr/free, 5-9pm Wed free; hexhibition & bookshop 10am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed, cafe from 11am Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; g66, 
fDet Kongelige Bibliotek)
From May 2018, you will find the Danish Architecture Centre inside the new, harbourside Blox building, designed by Dutch 'starchitect' Rem Koolhaas. Aside from its excellent book- and design-shop, the centre will host changing exhibitions on Danish and international architecture. On weekends from late May to September, DAC also runs 90-minute walking tours of the city's contemporary architecture (125kr). See the website for updates.
Nikolaj KunsthalGALLERY
(
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; %33 18 17 80; www.nikolajkunsthal.dk; Nikolaj Plads 10; adult/child 60kr/free, Wed free; hnoon-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)
Built in the 13th century, the church of Sankt Nikolaj is now home to the Copenhagen Contemporary Art Centre, which hosts around half-a-dozen exhibitions annually. Exhibitions tend to focus on modern-day cultural, political and social issues, explored in mediums as diverse as photography and performance art. The centre also houses a snug, well-regarded Danish restaurant called Maven.
Sankt Petri KirkeCHURCH
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; %33 13 38 33; www.sankt-petri.dk; Sankt Pedersstræde 2; h11am-3pm Wed-Sat; g5C, 6A, 14, mNørrebro, bNørrebro)
A handsome place of worship in the Latin Quarter is the German church of Sankt Petri Kirke. Dating from the 15th century, this is the oldest church building in the city. A child's coffin in the crypt is believed to hold the bones of Johan Friedrich Struensee, Christian VII's German physician. Struensee was beheaded, dismembered and buried on Gallows Hill in 1772 for bedding Queen Caroline Mathilde.
COPENHAGEN IN...
Two Days
Start with a canal and harbour tour, then soak up the salty atmosphere of Nyhavn on your way to Designmuseum Danmark. Lunch on celebrated smørrebrød at Schønnemann before heading up the historic Rundetårn for a bird’s-eye view of the city. That done, stock up on Danish design at Illums Bolighus, Hay House or Stilleben, then pick a restaurant in Vesterbro’s buzzing Kødbyen (literally ‘Meat City’) precinct. Once fed, cap the night with shameless fun and Danish hygge (cosiness) at Tivoli.
On day two, brush up on your Danish history at Nationalmuseet, lunch at produce market Torvehallerne KBH, break free from the rat race at Christiania before New Nordic feasting at Kadeau or 108. If the night is still young, kick on with cocktails at Ruby or 1105, or late-night sax at La Fontaine.
Four Days
If you have a third day, escape the city with a trip to art museum Louisiana. Lunch there before heading back into the city to snoop around Rosenborg Slot, then head straight to Ved Stranden 10 for a well-earned glass of vino. Fine-dine at Höst or keep it simple and juicy at Cock’s & Cows.
Kick-start day four with masterpieces at Statens Museum for Kunst or Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, then spend the rest of the day treading the grit-hip streets of Nørrebro, home to street art, eclectic bars and the city’s most beautiful cemetery, Assistens Kirkegård. If you get hungry, slip into Manfreds og Vin for local produce cooked simply and skillfully.
Nørreport
North of the Latin Quarter, featuring some distinguished art collections and museums, is an area of parks including castle-skirting Kongens Have, one of Copenhagen's oldest and most beautiful.
oRosenborg SlotCASTLE
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; %33 15 32 86; www.kongernessamling.dk/en/rosenborg; Øster Voldgade 4A; adult/child 110kr/free, incl Amalienborg Slot 145kr/free; h9am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; g6A, 42, 184, 185, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)
A 'once-upon-a-time' combo of turrets, gables and moat, the early-17th-century Rosenborg Slot was built in Dutch Renaissance style between 1606 and 1633 by King Christian IV to serve as his summer home. Today the castle's 24 upper rooms are chronologically arranged, housing the furnishings and portraits of each monarch from Christian IV to Frederik VII. The pièce de résistance is the basement Treasury, home to the dazzling crown jewels, among them Christian IV's glorious crown and Christian III's jewel-studded sword.
oStatens Museum for KunstMUSEUM
(
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; %33 74 84 94; www.smk.dk; Sølvgade 48-50; adult/child 110kr/free; h11am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed; g6A, 26, 42, 184, 185)F
Denmark's National Gallery straddles two contrasting, interconnected buildings: a late-19th-century 'palazzo' and a sharply minimalist extension. The museum houses medieval and Renaissance works and impressive collections of Dutch and Flemish artists, including Rubens, Breughel and Rembrandt. It claims the world's finest collection of 19th-century Danish 'Golden Age' artists, among them Eckersberg and Hammershøi, foreign greats like Matisse and Picasso, and modern Danish heavyweights including Per Kirkeby.
oDavids SamlingMUSEUM
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; %33 73 49 49; www.davidmus.dk; Kronprinsessegade 30; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed; g26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)F
Davids Samling is a wonderful curiosity of a gallery housing Scandinavia's largest collections of Islamic art, including jewellery, ceramics and silk, and exquisite works such as an Egyptian rock crystal jug from AD 1000 and a 500-year-old Indian dagger inlaid with rubies. And it doesn't end there, with an elegant selection of Danish, Dutch, English and French art, porcelain, silverware and furniture from the 17th to 19th centuries.
Kongens HavePARK
(King's Gardens;
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; http://parkmuseerne.dk/kongens-have; Øster Voldgade; h7am-11pm Jul–mid-Aug, to 10pm May–mid-Jun & mid-late Aug, reduced hours rest of year; c; g26, mNørreport, bNørreport)F
The oldest park in Copenhagen was laid out in the early 17th century by Christian IV, who used it as his vegetable patch. These days it has a little more to offer, including wonderfully romantic paths, a fragrant rose garden, some of the longest mixed borders in northern Europe and a marionette theatre with free performances from mid-July to mid-August (2pm and 3pm Tuesday to Sunday).
Located on the northeastern side of the park, the theatre occupies one of the neoclassical pavilions designed by Danish architect Peter Meyn.
Botanisk HaveGARDENS
(Botanic Garden;
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; http://botanik.snm.ku.dk; Gothersgade 140, Nørreport; h8.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar; c; g6A, 42, 150S, 184, 185, mNørreport, bNørreport)
Restorative and romantic, Copenhagen's Botanic Garden lays claim to around 13,000 species of plant life – the largest collection in Denmark. You can amble along tranquil trails, escape to warmer climes in the 19th-century Palmehus (
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; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Sep, 10am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; g6A, 14, 37, 150S, 184, 185, mNørreport, bNørreport) glasshouse and even pick up honey made using the garden's own bees at the gorgeous little gift shop.
Just east of the Palmehus is the Botanisk Have's Danish Quarter, a garden with rotating themes. From spring 2018, the theme will be Nordic beer, with a series of plants used in its production, including unique and historical hops. At the garden's northwest corner lies the Geologisk Museum (Geology Museum;
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; %35 32 22 22; http://geologi.snm.ku.dk; Øster Voldgade 5-7; adult/child 75/50kr; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun; g6A, 26, 184, 185), worth a trip for its exhibition of botanical drawings and dazzling mineral displays.
HirschsprungMUSEUM
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; %35 42 03 36; www.hirschsprung.dk; Stockholmsgade 20; adult/child 75kr/free; h11am-4pm Wed-Sun; g6A, 14, 37, 42, 150S)
Dedicated to Danish art of the 19th and early 20th centuries, Hirschsprungske is a little jewel-box of a gallery, full of wonderful surprises for art lovers unfamiliar with the classic era of Danish oil painting. Originally the private holdings of tobacco magnate Heinrich Hirschsprung, it contains works by 'Golden Age' painters such as Christen Købke and CW Eckersberg, a notable selection by Skagen painters PS Krøyer and Anna and Michael Ancher, and also works by the Danish symbolists and the Funen painters.
Nyhavn & the Royal Quarter
Ideal for sunny-day quayside cafe-hopping, the canal-side of Nyhavn (pronounced 'new-hown') also seduces tourists with its ship masts, canal tours and colourful gabled town houses. Nearby Frederiksstaden is one of Copenhagen's most elegant quarters, home to the royal palace, Marmorkirken (Marble Church) and, further north, the altogether less impressive Little Mermaid.
oNyhavnCANAL
(
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; Nyhavn; g1A, 26, 66, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)
There are few nicer places to be on a sunny day than sitting at an outdoor table at a cafe on the quayside of the Nyhavn canal. The canal was built to connect Kongens Nytorv to the harbour and was long a haunt for sailors and writers, including Hans Christian Andersen. He wrote The Tinderbox, Little Claus and Big Claus and The Princess and the Pea while living at number 20, and also spent time living at numbers 18 and 67.
The oldest house on the canal is number 9, remarkably unaltered since its construction in 1681. Today Nyhavn is a tourist magnet of brightly coloured gabled town houses, salty boats and foaming beers. It's also a handy place to hop on a boat ride with Canal Tours Copenhagen.
oDesignmuseum DanmarkMUSEUM
(
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; www.designmuseum.dk; Bredgade 68; adult/child 100kr/free; h11am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed; g1A, mKongens Nytorv)
The 18th-century Frederiks Hospital is now the outstanding Denmark Design Museum. A must for fans of the applied arts and industrial design, its fairly extensive collection includes Danish textiles and fashion, as well as the iconic design pieces of modern innovators like Kaare Klint, Poul Henningsen and Arne Jacobsen.
Amalienborg SlotPALACE
(
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; %33 15 32 86; www.kongernessamling.dk/amalienborg; Amalienborg Plads; adult/child 95kr/free; h10am-5pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; g1A, 26)
Home of the current queen, Margrethe II, Amalienborg Slot consists of four austere 18th-century palaces around a large cobbled square. The changing of the guard takes place here daily at noon, the new guard having marched through the city centre from the barracks on Gothersgade at 11.30am.
One of the palaces features exhibits of the royal apartments used by three generations of the monarchy from 1863 to 1947, its reconstructed rooms decorated with gilt-leather tapestries, trompe l'oeil paintings, family photographs and antiques. They include the study and drawing room of Christian IX (1863–1906) and Queen Louise, whose six children wedded into nearly as many royal families – one ascending to the throne in Greece and another marrying Russian Tsar Alexander III. The grand, neoclassical Gala Hall houses statues of Euterpe and Terpsichore created by a young Bertel Thorvaldsen.
MarmorkirkenCHURCH
(Marble Church;
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; %33 15 01 44; www.marmorkirken.dk; Frederiksgade 4; dome adult/child 35/20kr, church admission free; hchurch 10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, from noon Fri & Sun, dome 1pm daily mid-Jun–Aug, 1pm Sat & Sun rest of year; g1A)
Consecrated in 1894, the neo-baroque Marble Church (officially Frederikskirken) is one of Copenhagen's most imposing architectural assets. Its grandiose dome – inspired by St Peter's in Rome and the largest church dome in Scandinavia – offers an impressive view over the city. The church was ordered by Frederik V and drawn up by Nicolai Eigtved. Construction began in 1749 but spiralling costs saw the project mothballed. Salvation came in the form of Denmark's wealthiest 19th-century financier CF Tietgen, who bankrolled the project's revival.
Kunsthal CharlottenborgMUSEUM
(
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; %33 74 46 39; www.kunsthalcharlottenborg.dk; Nyhavn 2; adult/child 75kr/free, after 5pm Wed free; hnoon-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)
Fronting Kongens Nytorv, Charlottenborg was built in 1683 as a palace for the royal family. Home to Det Kongelige Kunstakademi (Royal Academy of Fine Arts) since 1754, it is also a spacious venue for topical contemporary art from homegrown and international names. Expect anything from site-specific installations and video art to painting and sculpture. Admittedly, shows here can be a little hit or miss, so check what's on before heading in.
KastelletFORTRESS
(
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; g1A, fNordre Toldbod)
The star-shaped fortress of Kastellet was originally commissioned by Frederik III in 1662. Today, it is one of the most historically evocative sites in the city, its grassy ramparts and moat surrounding some beautiful 18th-century barracks, as well as a chapel occasionally used for concerts. On the ramparts is a historic windmill, and you get some excellent views of the harbour and Marmorkirken's Vatican-like dome.
Just beyond the fortress' southeastern edge is Anders Bundgaard's monumental Gefion Fountain (Gefionspringvandet;
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; g1A, fNordre Toldbod), depicting the Norse goddess Gefion steering some rather stoic oxen.
Aleksander Nevskij KirkeCHURCH
(
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; %33 13 60 46; www.ruskirke.dk; Bredgade 53; honly for services; g1A)
Completed in 1883, golden-domed, granite-and-brick Alexander Newsky Kirke flaunts a Russian Byzantine style, complete with marble staircase, mosaic floors and Byzantine-style frescoes. This Byzantine influence is not surprising given that its Russian designer, David Ivanovich Grimm, was a respected Neo-Byzantine architect. The church's bronze chandelier was a gift from Tsar Alexander III, who commissioned the church.
THAT LITTLE MERMAID
New York has its Lady Liberty, Sydney its (Danish-designed) Opera House. When the world thinks of Copenhagen, chances are they're thinking of the Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue;
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; Langelinie, Østerport; g1A, fNordre Toldbod). Love her or loathe her (watch Copenhageners cringe at the very mention of her), this small, underwhelming statue is arguably the most photographed sight in the country, as well as the cause of countless 'is that it?' shrugs from tourists who have trudged the kilometre or so along an often windswept harbourfront to see her.
She was commissioned in 1909 by Danish beer baron Carl Jacobsen, who had been moved by a ballet performance based on Hans Christian Andersen's Little Mermaid fairy tale. Sculptor Edvard Eriksen modelled the body on his wife Eline, the face on ballerina Ellen Price. The statue survived Copenhagen's WWII occupation unscathed, but modern times haven't been so kind: Denmark's leading lady has suffered a series of decapitations and lost limbs at the hands of vandals, pranksters and protesters trying to make various political points.
Partly in response to these attacks, Carlsberg commissioned Danish artist Bjørn Nørgaard to create a second Little Mermaid in 2006. Sitting only a few hundred metres from the original, this 'genetically altered' sister is a misshapen creation that's arguably truer in spirit to Andersen's rather bleak, twisted fairy tale, in which the fish-tailed protagonist is physically and emotionally tormented. Then, since 2012 there's also Han in Helsingør, a third iteration that's contrastingly gleaming, tail-less... and male.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE CYCLING SNAKE
Two of the Danes' greatest passions – design and cycling – meet in spectacular fashion with Cykelslangen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), an elevated, 235-metre-long cycling path that evokes a slender ribbon, its gently curving form contrasting dramatically with a block-like architectural backdrop. It winds its whimsical way west from Bryggebro (Brygge Bridge) to Fisketorvet Shopping Centre (bus 34). It's only accessible by bicycle.
Slotsholmen
Separated from the city centre by a moat-like canal, Slotsholmen is a compact, spire-spiked island heaving with history, culture and arresting architecture, both old and cutting edge. At its heart is Christiansborg Slot, home to the national government, a glorious Renaissance hall and commanding tower views. Beneath it lie Copenhagen's medieval traces, while around it, museums include Thorvaldsens Museum, an ode to Denmark's greatest sculptor. Adding sharp relief is Det Kongelige Bibliotek. Copenhagen's royal library, its leaning 'Black Diamond' extension is one of Scandinavia's most applauded contemporary buildings.
oChristiansborg SlotPALACE
(Christiansborg Palace;
MAP
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; %33 92 64 92; www.christiansborg.dk; Prins Jørgens Gård 1; adult/child 90kr/free, joint ticket incl royal reception rooms, ruins, kitchen & stables 150kr/free; h10am-5pm daily May-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Apr; c; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek, mChristianshavn)
Christiansborg Slot is home to Folketinget (the Danish parliament), the Prime Minister's office and the Supreme Court. Visitor highlights include the glorious royal reception rooms, 11th-century ruins and royal kitchen, all of which can be visited separately or as part of a joint ticket. The palace is free to visit and offers sweeping views of the Danish capital.
Several short bridges link Slotsholmen to the rest of Copenhagen. If you walk into Slotsholmen from Ny Vestergade, you'll cross the western part of the canal and enter the large main courtyard of Christiansborg Slot, which was once used as royal riding grounds and still maintains a distinctively equestrian feel, overseen by a statue of Christian IX (1863–1906) on horseback and flanked to the north by stables and to the south by carriage buildings.
The stables and buildings surrounding the main courtyard date back to the 1730s when the original Christiansborg palace was built by Christian VI to replace the more modest Copenhagen Castle that previously stood there. The grander west wing of Christian VI's palace went up in flames in 1794, was rebuilt in the early 19th century and was once again destroyed by fire in 1884. In 1907 the cornerstone for the third (and current) Christiansborg palace was laid by Frederik VIII and, upon completion, the national parliament and the Supreme Court moved into new chambers there.
In addition to the sights listed here, visitors can enter Christiansborg Slotskirke (
MAP
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; h10am-5pm Sun, daily Jul; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66), the castle's domed church, which was set ablaze by stray fireworks in 1992 and has since been painstakingly restored. You can also hop on the elevator and take a ride to the top of the tower for spectacular panoramic city views.
oDe Kongelige RepræsentationslokalerHISTORIC BUILDING
(Royal Reception Rooms at Christiansborg Slot;
MAP
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; www.christiansborg.dk; Slotsholmen; adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm daily May-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Apr, guided tours in Danish/English 11am/3pm; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek)
The grandest part of Christiansborg is De Kongelige Repræsentationslokaler, a series of palace rooms and halls used by the queen to hold royal banquets and entertain heads of state. The Queen's Library is especially memorable, a gilded wonderland adorned with dripping chandeliers, ornate stucco, ceiling storks and a small part of the royal family's centuries-old book collection. Top billing goes to the Great Hall, home to riotously colourful wall tapestries depicting 1000 years of Danish history.
Created by tapestry designer Bjørn Nørgaard over a decade, the works were completed in 2000. Keep an eye out for the Adam and Eve–style representation of the queen and her husband (albeit clothed) in a Danish Garden of Eden.
oThorvaldsens MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %33 32 15 32; www.thorvaldsensmuseum.dk; Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2; adult/child 70kr/free, Wed free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; g1A, 2A, 26, 37, 66)
What looks like a colourful Greco-Roman mausoleum is in fact a museum dedicated to the works of illustrious Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770–1844). Heavily influenced by mythology after four decades in Rome, Thorvaldsen returned to Copenhagen and donated his private collection to the Danish public. In return the royal family provided this site for the construction of what is a remarkable complex housing Thorvaldsen's drawings, plaster moulds and statues. The museum also contains Thorvaldsen's own collection of Mediterranean antiquities.
oDet Kongelige BibliotekLIBRARY
(Royal Library;
MAP
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; %33 47 47 47; www.kb.dk; Søren Kierkegaards Plads; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat Jul & Aug, 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat rest of year; g66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek)F
Scandinavia's largest library consists of two very distinct parts: the original 19th-century red-brick building and the head-turning 'Black Diamond' extension, the latter a leaning parallelogram of sleek black granite and smoke-coloured glass. From the soaring, harbour-fronting atrium, an escalator leads up to a 210 sq metre ceiling mural by celebrated Danish artist Per Kirkeby. Beyond it, at the end of the corridor, is the 'old library' and its Hogwarts-like northern Reading Room, resplendent with vintage desk lamps and classical columns.
Aside from housing a complete collection of all Danish printed works produced since 1482, Denmark's national library is also home to the National Museum of Photography, which hosts rotating exhibitions of historical and contemporary photography sourced from its rich collection.
The library is also home to decent cafe Øieblikket (
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; %33 47 41 06; Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1; soup & salads 40-45kr, sandwiches 50-55kr; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; 
W
v; g9A, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek) and modern Danish restaurant Søren K (
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; %33 47 49 49; http://soerenk.dk; Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1; 1/5 courses 120/500kr; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat; W; g66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek).
Ruinerne under ChristiansborgRUINS
(Ruins under Christiansborg;
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; %33 92 64 92; www.christiansborg.dk; adult/child 50kr/free, joint ticket incl royal reception rooms, kitchen & stables 150kr/free; h10am-5pm daily May-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Apr; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek, mChristianshavn)
A walk through the crypt-like bowels of Slotsholmen, known as Ruinerne under Christiansborg, offers a unique perspective on Copenhagen’s well-seasoned history. In the basement of the current palace are the ruins of Slotsholmen's original fortress – built by Bishop Absalon in 1167 – and its successor, Copenhagen Castle. Among these remnants are each building's ring walls, as well as a well, baking oven, sewerage drains and stonework from the castle's Blue Tower.
The tower is infamously remembered as the place in which Christian IV's daughter, Leonora Christina, was incarcerated for treason from 1663 to 1685. Guided tours at noon on Saturday/Sunday in English/Danish.
Dansk Jødisk MuseumMUSEUM
(
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; %33 11 22 18; www.jewmus.dk; Proviantpassagen 6, Kongelige Bibliotekshave (Royal Library Garden); adult/child 60kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 1-4pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun rest of the year; g66, fDet Kongelige Bibliotek)
Designed by Polish-born Daniel Libeskind, the Danish Jewish Museum occupies the former Royal Boat House, an early 17th-century building once part of Christian IV's harbour complex. The transformed interior is an intriguing geometrical space, home to a permanent exhibition documenting Danish Jewry. Historical events covered include the Rescue of the Danish Jews in WWII, in which most of the country's Jewish population managed to flee to neutral Sweden with the help of the Danish resistance movement and ordinary Danish citizens.
You'll find the museum entrance in the gorgeous Royal Library Garden, right behind the Kongelige Bibliotek (Royal Library).
TeatermuseetMUSEUM
(Theatre Museum;
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; %33 11 51 76; www.teatermuseet.dk; Christiansborg Ridebane 18; adult/child 40kr/free; hnoon-4pm Tue-Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66)
Dating from 1767, the wonderfully atmospheric Hofteater (Old Court Theatre) has hosted everything from Italian opera to local ballet troupes, one of which included fledgling ballet student Hans Christian Andersen. Taking its current appearance in 1842, the venue is now the Theatre Museum, and visitors are free to explore the stage, boxes and dressing rooms, along with displays of set models, drawings, costumes and period posters tracing the history of Danish theatre.
Royal-watchers will enjoy peeking into the royal boxes – Christian VIII's entertainment area comes equipped with its own commode.
Holmens KirkeCHURCH
(Church of the Royal Danish Navy;
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; %33 13 61 78; www.holmenskirke.dk; Holmens Kanal 9; h10am-4pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 3.30pm Tue & Thu, noon-4pm Sun; g1A, 26, 66)
Queen Margrethe II took her marriage vows here in 1967, and while much of the present Dutch Renaissance–style structure dates from 1641, the church's nave was originally built in 1562 to be used as an anchor forge. Converted into a church for the Royal Navy in 1619, the building's burial chapel contains the remains of Admiral Niels Juel, who beat back the Swedes in the crucial 1677 Battle of Køge Bay. Other highlights include an intricately carved 17th-century oak altarpiece and pulpit.
De Kongelige StaldeMUSEUM
(Royal Stables;
MAP
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; %33 40 10 10; www.kongehuset.dk; adult/child 50kr/free; h1.30-4pm daily May-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Apr, guided tours in English 2pm Sat; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66)
Completed in 1740, the two curved, symmetrical wings behind Christiansborg belonged to the original baroque palace, destroyed by fire in 1794. The wings still house the royal stables and its museum of antique coaches, uniforms and riding paraphernalia, some of which are still used for royal receptions. Among these is the 19th-century Gold Coach, adorned with 24-carat gold leaf and still used by the queen on her gallop from Amalienborg to Christiansborg during the New Year’s levee in January.
BørsenHISTORIC BUILDING
(
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; Børsgade; g2A, 9A, 37, 66)
Not many stock exchanges are topped by a 56m-tall spire formed from the entwined tails of four dragons. Børsen is one. Constructed in the bustling early-17th-century reign of Christian IV, the building is considered one of the finest examples of Dutch Renaissance architecture in Denmark, with richly embellished gables. Its still-functioning chamber of commerce is the oldest in Europe, though the building is not generally open to the public.
FolketingetNOTABLE BUILDING
(
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; %33 37 32 21; www.thedanishparliament.dk; Rigsdagsgården; h45min guided tours in English 1pm Sun-Fri late Jun–mid-Aug, reduced hours rest of year; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66)F
Folketinget is where the 179 members of the Danish parliament debate national legislation. Guided tours also take in Wanderer's Hall, which contains the original copy of the Constitution of the Kingdom of Denmark, enacted in 1849. Outside the summer high season, the guided tours generally take place at 1pm on selected Sundays and public holidays – dates are listed on the website, where you can also book tour tickets.
TøjhusmuseetMUSEUM
(Royal Danish Arsenal Museum;
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; %33 11 60 37; www.natmus.dk; Tøjhusgade 3; adult/child 65kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66)
The Royal Arsenal Museum houses an impressive collection of historic weaponry, from canons and medieval armour to pistols, swords and even a WWII flying bomb. Built by Christian IV in 1600, the 163m-long building is Europe’s longest vaulted Renaissance hall.
Christianshavn
Established in the early 17th century as a commercial centre and military buffer for the expanding city, Christianshavn recalls Amsterdam, both with its network of boat-lined waterways and with its hyper-liberal, free-spirited neighbourhood of Christiania. The area also sports several historic churches and a gigantic 2005 opera house that cost a billion euros to build.
Nyhavn and Christianshavn are handily linked by the 2016 car-free Inderhavnsbroen, nicknamed Kyssebroen (Kissing Bridge) as it looks likes two tongues meeting.
Christianshavn
1Top Sights
1Sights
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
oChristianiaAREA
(
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; www.christiania.org; Prinsessegade; g9A, mChristianshavn)
Escape the capitalist crunch and head to Freetown Christiania, a hash-scented commune straddling the eastern side of Christianshavn. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, the area has drawn nonconformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Explore beyond the settlement's infamous 'Pusher St' – lined with shady hash and marijuana dealers who do not appreciate photographs – and you'll stumble upon a semi-bucolic wonderland of whimsical DIY homes, cosy garden plots, eateries, beer gardens and music venues.
Before its development as an alternative enclave, the site was an abandoned 41-hectare military camp. When squatters took over, police tried to clear the area. They failed. The hippie revolution was at its peak and wave after wave of alternative folk continued to pour in.
Bowing to public pressure, the government allowed the community to continue as a social experiment. Self-governing, ecology-oriented and generally tolerant, Christiania residents did, in time, find it necessary to modify their 'anything goes' approach. A new policy was established that outlawed hard drugs, and the heroin and cocaine pushers were expelled.
The main entrance into Christiania is on Prinsessegade, 200m northeast of its intersection with Bådsmandsstræde. From late June to the end of August, 60- to 90-minute guided tours (40kr) of Christiania run daily at 11am and 3pm (weekends only September to late June). Tours commence just inside Christiania's main entrance on Prinsessegade.
Vor Frelsers KirkeCHURCH
(
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; %41 66 63 57; www.vorfrelserskirke.dk; Sankt Annæ Gade 29; church free, tower adult/child 40/10kr; h11am-3.30pm, closed during services, tower 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7pm Sun May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)
It's hard to miss this 17th-century church and its 95m-high spiral tower. For a soul-stirring city view, make the head-spinning 400-step ascent to the top – the last 150 steps run along the outside rim of the tower, narrowing to the point where they literally disappear at the top. Inspired by Borromini's tower of St Ivo in Rome, the spire was added in 1752 by Lauritz de Thurah. Inside the church, highlights include an ornate baroque altar and elaborately carved pipe organ from 1698.
OvergadenGALLERY
(
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; %32 57 72 73; www.overgaden.org; Overgaden Neden Vandet 17; h1-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)F
Rarely visited by tourists, this non-profit art gallery runs about 10 exhibitions annually, putting the spotlight on contemporary installation art and photography, usually by younger artists, both Danish and international. The gallery also runs a busy calendar of artist talks, lectures, performances, concerts and film screenings. See the website for upcoming events.
Christians KirkeCHURCH
(
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; %32 54 15 76; www.christianskirke.dk; Strandgade 1; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)
Named in honour of Christian IV – who founded Christianshavn in the early 17th century – Christians Kirke is well known for its unusual rococo interior. This includes tiered viewing galleries more reminiscent of a theatre than a place of worship. The church was built between 1754 and 1759, serving Christianshavn's sizeable German congregation until the end of the 19th century.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
AMAGER BAKKE
East of Christianshavn, Amager Bakke (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.a-r-c.dk/amager-bakke; Vindmøllevej 6; g37) is a highly ambitious waste-to-energy plant whose skyscraping chimney blows visible 'smoke rings' (water vapour, actually) for every 250kg of carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere. When completed in 2018, its spectacular sloping roof will feature a year-round ski run, as well as hiking trails.
Nørrebro & Østerbro
Østerbro is a white-bread neighbourhood where chi-chi boutiques and bistros mingle with some of Copenhagen's most fascinating domestic architecture. Contrastingly bohemian, Nørrebro offers a sexy funk of art-clad 19th-century tenements, kaleidoscopic street life, multicultural crowds and thronging cafe-bars. Plus there's celebrity cemetery Assistens Kirkegård. For views, climb to the playground-rooftop of the imaginative, eight-storey car park Konditaget Lüders (
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; Helsinkigade 30, Nordhavn; h24hr; g3A, 8A, 37, bNordhavn). Or gaze forth from the 1887 bridge, Dronning Louises Bro (
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; g5C, mNørreport, bNørreport), to survey Nørrebrø's famous neon lights.
Nørrebro
6Drinking & Nightlife
Assistens KirkegårdCEMETERY
(
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; %35 37 19 17; http://assistens.dk; Kapelvej 4, Nørrebro; h7am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar; g5C, 8A)
You'll find some of Denmark's most celebrated citizens at this famous cemetery, including philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, physicist Niels Bohr, author Hans Christian Andersen and artists Jens Juel, Christen Købke and CW Eckersberg. It's a wonderfully atmospheric place to wander around – as much a park and garden as it is a graveyard. A good place to start is at the main entrance on Kapelvej, where you can usually find fold-out maps of the cemetery and its notable burial sites.
SuperkilenPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Nørrebrogade 210, Nørrebro; g5C, bNørrebro)
This fascinating 1km-long park showcases objects sourced from around the globe with the aim of celebrating diversity and uniting the community. Items include a tile fountain from Morocco, bollards from Ghana and swing chairs from Baghdad, as well as neon signs from Russia and China. Even the benches, manhole covers and rubbish bins hail from foreign lands.
Østerbro
1Sights
4Sleeping
Vesterbro & Frederiksberg
It is hard to imagine two more disparate neighbours than hip, gritty Vesterbro and middle-class Frederiksberg, yet both promise intriguing sights, atmosphere and hangouts. Vesterbro is the epicentre of Copenhagen cool, a place where sharply curated shelves, menus and drink lists share the limelight with street art, sex shops and old-school grocers and barbers. At its southern end is Kødbyen, a mid-century 'Meatpacking District' turned eating-and-drinking hotspot. Respectable Frederiksberg is all about genteel diversions, from royal gardens and subterranean art, to Copenhagen Zoo and a world-famous brewery.
oFrederiksberg HaveGARDENS
(
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; Frederiksberg Runddel, Frederiksberg; h7am-11pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, to 10pm May–mid-Jun & mid-late Aug, reduced hours rest of year; g6A, 8A, 71, 72, mFrederiksberg)
This is Copenhagen’s most romantic park, with lakes, woodlands and lovely picnic lawns. Guarding the main entrance is 19th-century royal Frederik VI, who would thrill his loyal subjects by taking boat rides along Frederiksberg Have's canals. The park's imposing baroque palace, Frederiksborg Slot, was the royal family's summer residence until the mid-19th century. These days it houses the Royal Danish Military Academy. The Chinese Pavilion is another regal relic, built in 1799 as a royal tea house.
Frederiksberg Have's most unusual attraction is its suttetræet (sucky tree), located north of the Chinese Pavilion. The 250-year-old tree is hard to miss, its branches hung with hundreds of colourful ribbons tied to baby pacifiers. According to Danish tradition, when a toddler turns three it is time to give up their pacifier. To make the separation easier, parents and children entrust the pacifier to their local suttetræet, along with a note on behalf of the toddler asking the tree to take good care of it.
CisternerneGALLERY
(
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; %30 73 80 32; www.cisternerne.dk; Søndermarken, Frederiksberg; adult/child 60kr/free; hvary; g6A, 72)
Below elegant Søndermarken Park lurks Copenhagen's damp, dripping 19th-century reservoir. These days it's best known as Cisternerne, one of Copenhagen's most unusual and atmospheric art spaces. Each year, a renowned artist is given the opportunity to transform the reservoir into a huge, immersive installation. Artists have included Denmark's Eva Koch and German-born Christian Lemmerz, as well as Japanese architect Hiroshi Sambuichi. See the website for current exhibition details.
V1 GalleryGALLERY
(
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; %33 31 03 21; www.v1gallery.com; Flæsketorvet 69-71, Vesterbro; hnoon-6pm Wed-Fri, to 4pm Sat during exhibitions; g1A, 10, 14, bDybbølsbro)F
Part of the Kødbyen (Vesterbro's 'Meatpacking District'), V1 is one of Copenhagen's most progressive art galleries. Cast your eye on fresh work from emerging and established local and foreign artists. Some of the world's hottest names in street and graffiti art have exhibited here, from Britain's Banksy to the USA's Todd James and Lydia Fong (aka Barry McGee).
Visit CarlsbergBREWERY
(
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; %33 27 12 82; www.visitcarlsberg.dk; Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11, Vesterbro; adult/child 100/70kr; h10am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm rest of year; g1A, 26, bCarlsberg)
Adjacent to the architecturally whimsical Carlsberg brewery, Visit Carlsberg explores the history of Danish beer from 1370 BC (yes, they carbon-dated a bog girl who was found in a peat bog caressing a jug of well-aged brew). Dioramas give the lowdown on the brewing process, and en route to your final destination you'll pass antique copper vats and the stables with a dozen Jutland dray horses.
The self-guided tour ends at the bar, where you can knock back two beers (or soft drinks), included in the admission price. Guided tours (50kr) are also available every hour from 11am.
From April to September, a free shuttle bus service runs between the Visit Carlsberg and the Royal Hotel at Vesterbrogade 6 (right beside Central Station). Buses run hourly from 11am to 5pm; Visit Carlsberg tickets can be purchased on board.
Copenhagen ZooZOO
(
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; %72 20 02 00; www.zoo.dk; Roskildevej 32, Frederiksberg; adult/child 180/100kr; h10am-6pm Jun & mid-late Aug, to 8pm Jul–mid-Aug, reduced hours rest of year; g6A, 72)
Located up on Frederiksberg (Frederik's Hill), Copenhagen Zoo rustles and rumbles with more than 2500 critters, including lions, zebras, hippos and gorillas. The zoo's state-of-the-art elephant enclosure was designed by English architect Sir Norman Foster, while the Arctic Ring enclosure allows visitors to walk right through the polar-bear pool for some spectacular close encounters with those deceptively cuddly-looking beasts.
2City Walk
Copenhagen - Cobbles & Cosiness
Start Nyhavn
Finish Rådhuspladsen
Length 2.7 kilometres; two hours
Start your stroll at iconic canal-side 1Nyhavn, eyeing up its crayon-coloured townhouses and imagining a past filled with rowdy sailors and women of 'ill repute'. Commissioned by Christian V, the canal was constructed by Swedish war prisoners in the 17th century to connect the harbour to 2Kongens Nytorv, Copenhagen's largest square. At the southern end of the square stands the 3Magasin department store, a commanding example of French Renaissance Revival architecture. Built in 1894, it replaced the Hotel du Nord, which was home to Hans Christian Andersen between 1838 and 1847.
Continue south into Laksegade, turning right into Nikolajgade. The street leads to 4Nicolaj Kunsthal, a contemporary art space set inside Copenhagen's third-oldest church. Head west down Fortunstræde to 5Højbro Plads, home to a statue of Copenhagen's founder, Bishop Absalon. Close by is superlative wine bar 6Ved Stranden 10. Stop for a swill, then cross the canal at Holmens Bro. In front of you is 7Christiansborg Slot, home to the Danish parliament. Head through the archway to the left of the palace, then through the second archway on your left. Awaiting is the 8Royal Library Garden, built on top of Christian IV's old naval port, Tøjhushavnen. Head back through the archway, continuing south to the late-baroque 9Riding Ground Complex, the only surviving remnant from the original Christiansborg Palace. The riding ground leads out to the 18th-century aMarble Bridge. Cross it, turning right into Frederiksholms Kanal until you reach bMagstræde, Copenhagen's oldest street. Wander down it, turning left into Knabrostræde and then left again at Brolæggerstræde. The street spills into Nytorv, home to Copenhagen's pink-stucco court house cDomhuset. Head down Slutterigade to the left of the building, at the very end of which soars the architectural flourish that is dRådhus.
2Activities
oMystery MakersWALKING
(%30 80 30 50; http://mysterymakers.dk; Mystery Hunt per person 250-400kr; hhours vary)
Bring out your inner Detective Sarah Lund with Mystery Makers' interactive mystery hunts. Offered at numerous historical sites around town – including Kastellet – players are given fictional identities and a mystery to solve, with a series of riddles and clues along the way. Suitable for adults and kids aged 12 and above, it’s a stimulating, engaging way to explore Copenhagen’s back-story.
You will need a minimum of four people to form a team. See the website for pricing, which varies according to the day of the week and time of day (Sunday to Wednesday before 3pm is cheapest). Mystery Makers also runs a series of excellent, one-hour Escape Room games (from 200kr).
BakkenAMUSEMENT PARK
(
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; %39 63 35 44; www.bakken.dk; Dyrehavevej 62, Klampenborg; multiride wristband adult/child 269/189kr; hlate Mar-early Sep; bKlampenborg)
An 800m walk west from Klampenborg station is Bakken, established in the 16th century and now the world's oldest amusement park. A blue-collar version of Tivoli, it's a honky-tonk carnival of bumper cars, roller coasters, slot machines and beer halls. See the website for opening times, which change throughout the season.
Københavns CyklerbørsCYCLING
(
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; %33 14 07 17; www.cykelboersen.dk; Gothersgade 157; bicycles per day/week 90/450kr; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, also 10am-2pm Sun May-Aug; g5C, 37, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)
Bicycle rental close to the Botanisk Have (Botanic Garden) on the northwest edge of the city centre.
BaisikeliCYCLING
(
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; %26 70 02 29; http://baisikeli.dk; Ingerslevsgade 80, Vesterbro; bicycles per 6hr/week from 50/270kr; h10am-6pm; g1A, bDybbølsbro)
Baisikeli is Swahili for bicycle, and the profits from this rental outlet are used to ship much-needed bikes to African communities annually. It's located beside Dybøllsbro S-train station and just south of the Kødbyens Fiskebar restaurant and bar precinct in Vesterbro.
Hauser PladsPLAYGROUND
(
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; c; g6A, 150S, 184, 185, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)
With its mini green hills and surreal climbing structures, the playground on Hauser Plads looks straight off Teletubbies. In reality, it's the work of Dutch landscape architects Karres en Brands and Danish firm Polyform, who together turned a forlorn city square into a magnet for energetic kids, their adult keepers, lunching office workers and the odd design fan.
You'll find swings, a sandpit and water fountains, plus a giant amoeba-shaped opening looking down at subterranean offices. How's that for clever storage space?
Boating
oGoBoatBOATING
(
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; %40 26 10 25; www.goboat.dk; Islands Brygge 10; boat hire 1/2/3hr 399/749/999kr; h9.30am-sunset; c; g5C, 12, mIslands Brygge)
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What could be more 'Copenhagen' than sailing around the harbour and canals in your own solar-powered boat? You don't need prior sailing experience, and each boat or vessel comes with a built-in picnic table (you can buy supplies at GoBoat or bring your own). Boats seat up to eight people and rates are per boat, so the more in your group, the cheaper per person.
The rental kiosk sits right beside Islands Brygge Havnebadet.
Duffy BoatBOATING
(
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; %42 36 36 00; http://duffyboats.dk; Refshalevej 163B; 2hr 9-person boat rental with captain 2500kr; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat mid-Apr–Sep; g9A, fRefshaleøen)S
Ideal for larger groups, these super-comfy, electric-powered boats can be hired for two-, three- and four-hour tours of the harbour. A captain is included in the rental price, and guests have the option of ordering a drinks package (one beer, bottle of wine, soft drink and snack for 110kr per person). That said, you're also welcome to bring your own drinks and snacks.
Canal Tours CopenhagenBOATING
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; %32 96 30 00; www.stromma.dk; Nyhavn; adult/child 80/40kr; h9.30am-9pm late Jun–mid-Aug, reduced hours rest of year; c; g1A, 26, 66, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)
Canal Tours Copenhagen runs one-hour cruises of the city's canals and harbour, taking in numerous major sights, including Christiansborg Slot, Christianshavn, the Royal Library, Opera House, Amalienborg Palace and the Little Mermaid. Embark at Nyhavn or Ved Stranden. Boats depart up to six times per hour from late June to late August, with reduced frequency the rest of the year.
Netto-BådeneBOATING
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; %32 54 41 02; www.havnerundfart.dk; Holmens Bro; adult/child 40/15kr; htours 2-5 per hour, 10am-7pm Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66)
Netto-Bådene operates good-value one-hour cruises of Copenhagen's canals and harbour. Embarkation points are at Holmens Kirke and Nyhavn. From October to March, tours are conducted in heated, glass-roofed boats. Check the website for timetable updates.
Swimming
DGI-byenSWIMMING
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; www.dgi-byen.dk; Tietgensgade 65, Vesterbro; day pass adult/child Mon-Fri 65/45kr, Sat & Sun 75/50kr; h6am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 7.30pm Fri, 8am-7pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; c; g1A, 32, bKøbenhavn H)
An extravagant indoor swim centre with several pools, including a grand ellipse-shaped affair with 100m lanes, a deep 'mountain pool' with a climbing wall, a hot-water pool and a children's pool. If you've forgotten your togs or towels, they can be hired for 25kr each (bring photo ID as a deposit). Admission is cheapest on weekdays before 9am (adult/child 45/30kr).
Øbro-HallenSWIMMING
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; %82 20 51 50; http://teambade.kk.dk/indhold/oebro-hallen; Gunnar Nu Hansens Plads 3, Østerbro; adult/child 40/20kr; h7am-8pm Mon, Tue & Fri, from 8am Wed, from 6.30am Thu, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun; c; g1A)
Inspired by ancient Roman baths and dating back to 1929–30, Øbro-Hallen is Denmark's oldest indoor public pool complex. It's also one of its most beautiful, its three pools – a 25m lap pool, a children's pool and an infant pool – awash with natural light from the elegant glass ceiling.
Islands Brygge HavnebadetSWIMMING
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; http://teambade.kk.dk/indhold/havnebade-0; Islands Brygge; h24hr Jun-Sep, lifeguards on duty 11am-7pm; c; g5C, 12, mIslands Brygge)F
Copenhagen's coolest outdoor pool complex comprises three pools and sits right in the central city's main canal. Water quality is rigorously monitored, and the lawns, BBQ facilities and eateries make it a top spot to see and be seen on a warm summer day, whether you get wet or not.
Havnebadet SluseholmenSWIMMING
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; %51 82 63 79; http://teambade.kk.dk/indhold/havnebade-0; Ben Websters Vej 69; h11am-7pm Jun-Sep; c; g14, 34, fTeglholmen)F
With a striking design inspired by coral, this free outdoor bathing complex sits at the southern end of Copenhagen Harbour. Facilities include two shallow pools for young children and adolescents, and a deep pool designed for swimming and diving. Lifeguards are on hand, and the complex is wheelchair-accessible.
Amager StrandparkBEACH
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; www.kk.dk/amagerstrandpark; c; mØresund, Amager Strand)
A sand-sational artificial lagoon southeast of the city centre, with acres of beach and, during summer, a festive vibe most days, with cafes and bars. Playground facilities and shallow water make it ideal for kids. The beach is also home to Helgoland (
MAP
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; h24hr daily May-Aug; mØresund, Amager Strand), a vintage-inspired sea bathing complex with multiple pools open to nonmembers from late June to the end of August.
TTours
Kayak RepublicKAYAKING
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; %22 88 49 89; www.kayakrepublic.dk; Børskaj 12; 1/2/3hr rental 175/275/375kr, 2hr guided tour 395kr; h10am-9pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours rest of year; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S)S
Kayak Republic runs daily two-hour kayaking tours through the city's canals, as well as less frequent three-hour tours that focus on Nordic food (695kr) or architecture (525kr). While no previous kayaking experience is necessary for the guided tours, only people with an EEP 2 or BCU 2 certificate (and ID) are able to rent sea kayaks for unaccompanied exploration.
Bike Copenhagen with MikeCYCLING
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; %26 39 56 88; www.bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk; Sankt Peders Stræde 47; per person 299kr; g2A, 5C, 6A, 14, 250S)
If you don't fancy walking, Bike Mike runs three-hour cycling tours of the city, departing Sankt Peders Stræde 47 in the city centre, just east of Ørstedsparken (which is southwest of Nørreport Station). The tour cost includes bike, helmet rental and Mike himself, a great character with deep, attention-grabbing knowledge of the city. Cash only.
Note that tours must be booked online and in advance; the office is not usually manned, aside from bike pick-up and departure times. Seasonal and private tours are also available; see the website.
Copenhagen City SightseeingTOUR
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; %32 96 30 00; www.citysightseeing.dk; tickets adult/child from 158/79kr; hdepartures every 30-60min, 9.30am-4.30pm daily late Apr–mid-Sep, shorter hours & routes rest of year)
A hop-on/hop-off double-decker bus tour, with three themed tours: Mermaid, Carlsberg and Christiania. Multilingual tape recordings make sure everyone gets the picture. The two-day 'Bus & Boat combo' (adult/child 245/123kr) also covers Canal Tours Copenhagen. There's a ticket booth on Ved Stranden, opposite Christiansborg Slotskirke.
Copenhagen Free Walking ToursWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.copenhagenfreewalkingtours.dk; Rådhuspladsen)
This outfit runs free daily walking tours of the city. The three-hour Grand Tour of Copenhagen departs daily at 10am, 11am and 3pm from outside Rådhus (Town Hall), taking in famous landmarks and featuring interesting anecdotes. There's also a 90-minute Classical Copenhagen Tour, departing daily at noon. A 90-minute tour of Christianshavn departs daily at 4pm from Højbro Plads. A tip is expected.
Nordic Noir ToursWALKING
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; www.nordicnoirtours.com; per person 150kr, if booked online 100kr; hThe Killing/The Bridge tour 4pm Sat, pre-booked Borgen tour 2pm Sat; bVesterport)
Fans of Danish TV dramas The Bridge and The Killing can visit the shooting locations on these themed 90-minute walks. Tours start at Vesterport S-train station. Bookings are not required, though tickets purchased online at least 48 hours in advance are 50kr cheaper. A 90-minute Borgen tour is also offered, though advance booking is necessary. Check website for open tour months.
Private tours are available year-round.
CPH:coolWALKING
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; %50 58 28 24; www.cphcool.dk; Vesterbrogade 4A; tour 1-6 people from 1650kr; g2A, 6A, 12, 14, 26, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)
Running between two and 2½ hours, these niche walking tours cover themes like shopping, architecture, design, gastronomy and beer. There are also a couple of cycling tours. Prices vary according to the number of participants, and all tours start outside the Copenhagen Visitors Centre at Vesterbrogade 4A, opposite Tivoli amusement park.
Running Tours CopenhagenRUNNING
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; %50 59 17 29; www.runningtours.dk; 1-2 people 350kr, each additional person 100kr; g2A, 12, 14, 26, 33, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)
Run (or jog) around town for a cardio-friendly sightseeing session. Choose from various themes, including the Grand Tour, the Night Run, and our favourite, the Pub Run. Tours begin from Rådhuspladsen, though hotel pick-ups can be arranged.
zFestivals & Events
oCopenhagen Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.jazz.dk; hJul)
Copenhagen's single largest event, and the biggest jazz festival in northern Europe, hits the city over 10 days in early July. The program covers jazz in all its forms, with an impressive line-up of local and international talent.
Fredagsrock at PlænenMUSIC
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; www.tivoli.dk; Tivoli Gardens, Vesterbrogade 3; hApr-Sep)
From mid-April to late September, Tivoli Gardens runs its hugely popular 'Friday's Rock'; open-air, Friday-night concerts featuring top-notch music acts from Denmark and around the world. Past performers have included Lil Wayne, 5 Seconds of Summer, Brian Wilson and Erykah Badu. Concerts are free with normal Tivoli Gardens admission.
ØlfestivalBEER
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; http://beerfestival.dk; hMay)
A three-day beer fest in May, showcasing more than 800 brews from Danish and international producers. Events – which take place in a converted train workshop south of Vesterbro – include tastings, demonstrations and live music.
CPH:PIXFILM
(www.cphpix.dk; hSep/Oct)
Copenhagen's feature film festival runs over two weeks in September and October. Expect a comprehensive program of cinema from Denmark and abroad, as well as numerous film-related events, including director and actor Q&As.
CPH:DOXFILM
(www.cphdox.dk; hMar)
CPH:DOX is an acclaimed international documentary film festival, the third largest of its kind in the world. Taking place over 11 days in March, its diverse program takes to cinemas across the city. Screenings aside, the event also includes concerts, art exhibitions and seminars.
Tivoli Christmas MarketCULTURAL
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; www.tivoli.dk; hNov-Dec)
From mid-November to late December, Tivoli gets into the Christmas spirit with a large Yuletide market, costumed staff and theatre shows. Fewer rides are operational but the mulled wine and æbleskiver (small doughnuts) are ample compensation.
Copenhagen Cooking & Food FestivalFOOD & DRINK
(www.copenhagencooking.dk; hAug)
Scandinavia's largest food festival serves up a gut-rumbling program spanning cooking demonstrations from A-list chefs to tastings and foodie tours of the city. Events are held in venues and restaurants across town, usually in August.
DistortionMUSIC
(www.cphdistortion.dk; hMay/Jun)
Taking place over five heady days in late May and early June, Copenhagen Distortion celebrates the city's street life and club culture. Expect raucous block parties and top-name DJs spinning dance tracks in bars and clubs across town.
StrømMUSIC
(www.stromcph.dk; hAug)
Copenhagen’s electronic music festival runs for five days in August. Considered the top festival of its kind in Scandinavia, its events include masterclasses, concerts, raves and parties across the city, many of them free.
3 Days of DesignCULTURAL
(http://3daysofdesign.dk; hMay/Jun)
Held in late May or early June, Copenhagen's three-day lifestyle and interior-design event sees dozens of venues, from furniture and design stores to cafes and Designmuseum Danmark, host special events open to the public. These include design-themed talks, tours and product launches.
CPH Opera FestivalMUSIC
(http://operafestival.dk; hJul/Aug)
An 11-day celebration of opera in unconventional locations across the city, from historic buildings to boats in the harbour. The festival usually runs from late July to early August.
KulturhavnCULTURAL
(www.kulturhavn.dk; hAug)
For three days in August, Copenhagen takes culture to the harbour and waterways with a wide program of theatre, dance, music, sports and parades on the 'beach' at Islands Brygge, as well as at Sydhavnen, Papirøen, Refshaleøen and other waterside locations. Events are free.
Mix CopenhagenLGBT
(www.mixcopenhagen.dk; hOct-Nov)
Copenhagen's dedicated LGBT film festival runs over 10 days, usually in late October and early November. Screenings of homegrown and foreign films are held at various venues across the city.
Copenhagen PrideLGBT
(www.copenhagenpride.dk; hAug)
Rainbow flags fly high during the city's six-day queer fest in August. Expect live music and merry revellers in the city centre, fabulous club parties, and film screenings, as well as cultural and political forums. The Pride parade takes place on the Saturday afternoon, starting in Frederiksberg and ending in Rådhuspladsen in the city centre.