6Drinking & Nightlife

Vibrant drinking areas include the historic Latin Quarter; Vesterbro's Kødbyen (Meatpacking District), Istedgade and the northern end of Viktoriagade; Nørrebro's Ravnsborggade, Elmegade, Sankt Hans Torv and Jægersborggade. On a sunny day, there's always touristic Nyhavn, although prices are higher and the best places are away from the water.

Central Copenhagen

TaphouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %88 87 65 43; http://taphouse.dk; Lavendelstræde 15; h3pm-2am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; g2A, 12, 14, 26, 33, bKøbenhavn H)

A firm favourite among Copenhagen's beer aficionados, Taphouse serves up drafts from an incredible 61 taps. Its ever-changing selection is one of the largest in Europe, and features craft beers from microbreweries around the world. Choices range from the mainstream to the totally unique, and knowledgeable, affable staff are on hand to guide customers towards their perfect brew.

oCoffee CollectiveCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeecollective.dk; Stall C1, Hall 2, Torvehallerne KBH; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)S

Save your caffeine fix for Copenhagen's most respected micro-roastery. The beans here are sourced ethically and directly from farmers. These guys usually offer two espresso blends, one more full-bodied and traditional, the other more acidic in flavour. If espresso is just too passé, order a hand-brewed cup from the Kalita Wave dripper. There are three other outlets, including in Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.

oBastard CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 74 66 42; https://bastardcafe.dk; Rådhusstræde 13; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37)

A godsend on rainy days, this hugely popular, super-cosy cafe is dedicated to board games, which line its rooms like books in a library. Some are free to use, while others incur a small 'rental fee'. While away the hours playing an old favourite or learn the rules of a more obscure option.

And if you think this place is reserved for dateless geeks, think again: young, single hipsters flock here to slurp coffees and beers, roll the dice and scan the crowd for potential dates.

oMother WineWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 10 00; http://motherwine.dk; Gammel Mønt 33; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu & Sat, to late Fri; W; g350S, mKongens Nytorv)

A hyggelig (cosy) wine bar/shop with some very prized Finn Juhl chairs, Mother Wine showcases natural, organic and lesser-known Italian drops. From organic Veneto Prosecco to Puglian Negroamaro, guests are encouraged to sample the day's rotating offerings before committing to a glass. Wines start at a very palatable 55kr and come with a small complimentary serve of Italian nibbles.

From Thursday to Saturday, the bar's upper floor hosts proper aperitivo sessions, where vino is offered with bites like couscous, Italian cheeses and salsiccia (sausage).

oVed Stranden 10WINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 42 40 40; www.vedstranden10.dk; Ved Stranden 10; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 26, 37, 66, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Politicians and well-versed oenophiles make a beeline for this canal-side wine bar, its enviable cellar stocked with classic European vintages, biodynamic wines and more obscure drops. With modernist Danish design and friendly, clued-in staff, its string of rooms lend an intimate, civilised air that's perfect for grown-up conversation. Discuss terroir and tannins over vino-friendly nibbles like olives, cheeses and smoked meats.

o1105COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 11 05; www.1105.dk; Kristen Bernikows Gade 4; h8pm-2am Wed, Thu & Sat, 4pm-2am Fri; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Head in before 11pm for a bar seat at this dark, luxe lounge. Named for the local postcode, its cocktail repertoire spans both the classic and the revisited. You'll also find a fine collection of whiskies, not to mention an older 30- and 40-something crowd more interested in thoughtfully crafted drinks than partying hard and getting wasted.

oRubyCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 12 03; www.rby.dk; Nybrogade 10; h4pm-2am Mon-Sat, from 6pm Sun; W; g1A, 2A, 14, 26, 37, 66)

Cocktail connoisseurs raise their glasses to high-achieving Ruby, hidden away in an unmarked 18th-century townhouse. Inside, suave mixologists whip up near-flawless, seasonal libations created with craft spirits and homemade syrups, while a lively crowd spills into a labyrinth of cosy, decadent rooms. For a gentlemen's club vibe, head downstairs among chesterfields, oil paintings and wooden cabinets lined with spirits.

oForloren EspressoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.forlorenespresso.dk; Store Kongensgade 32; h8am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 5pm Thu & Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; W; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv)

Coffee snobs weep joyfully into their nuanced espressos and third-wave brews at this snug, light-filled cafe. Bespectacled owner Niels tends to his brewing paraphernalia like an obsessed scientist, turning UK- and Swedish-roasted beans into smooth, lingering cups of Joe. If you're lucky, you'll score the cosy back nook, the perfect spot to browse Niels' collection of photography tomes.

JaneCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thejane.dk; Gråbrødretorv 8; h8pm-late Thu-Sat; g5C, 6A, 14, 150S, 350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

With its plush armchairs, chesterfield sofas and soundtrack of jazz and blues, you'd be forgiven for thinking your name is Don Draper. But it probably isn't and you're definitely not on the set of Mad Men. You're at Jane, a hotspot, speakeasy-style bar with craft cocktails and a craftier bookshelf. As the night progresses, watch it open to reveal a hidden dance floor.

BankeråtBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 69 88; www.bankeraat.dk; Ahlefeldtsgade 27; h9.30am-11pm Mon & Tue, to midnight Wed-Fri, 10.30am-midnight Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun; W; g37, 5C, 350S, mNørrebro, bNørrebro)

A snug spot to get stuffed (literally), kooky, attitude-free Bankeråt is decorated with taxidermic animals in outlandish get-ups – yes, there's even a ram in period costume. The man behind it all is local artist Filip V Jensen. But is it art? Debate this, and the mouth-shaped urinals, over a local craft beer (a much better choice than the very average wines).

Living RoomCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 66 10; www.facebook.com/thelivingroomdk; Larsbjørnsstræde 17; h9am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; W; g5C, 6A, 10, 14, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Spread over three levels and decked out in vintage decor and a Moroccan-themed tea room, the aptly titled Living Room is a super-cosy (albeit often busy) spot to settle in with a speciality coffee, tea, homemade smoothie or lemonade. Cocktails and other alcoholic libations are also served late into the evening.

BoulebarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %82 82 08 00; www.boulebar.dk; Nørregade 18; h4-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri, 10:30am-1am Sat, to 11pm Sun; g14, 150S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

Why merely sip French bubbles when you can do so over a game of oh-so-Gallic pétanque? This out-of-the-box bar and restaurant comes with 15 pétanque lanes. If you're feeling hungry, channel Paris over classics like mussels, steak-frites and beef tartare. The bar also offers food-and-pétanque packages (from 270kr), combining 90 minutes of play with selected offerings from the kitchen.

Library BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 92 62; www.librarybar.dk; Bernstorffsgade 4; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; g2A, 5C, 6A, 9A, 26, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

The Copenhagen Plaza’s intimate hotel bar mimics a classic London gentlemen’s club, with leather chairs, shelves lined with books and a stained-glass ceiling. Adding atmosphere is the live jazz, a regular fixture on Friday and Saturday nights from 9.30pm.

Hviids VinstuePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 07 60; www.hviidsvinstue.dk; Kongens Nytorv 19; h10am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; g9A)

One of the oldest bars in Copenhagen, Hviids Vinstue has been putting a wobble in people's steps since 1723. The interior is a suitably brooding combo of dark timber and leather. The place is famous for its gløgg (Danish mulled wine). Production begins in May, with the bar's annual gløgg season starting at 11am on 11 November, just in time for the biting Danish winter.

The bar also serves traditional smørrebrød.

Palæ BarPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 54 71; www.palaebar.dk; Ny Adelgade 5; h11am-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, 4pm-1am Sun; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

The air may no longer be thick with tobacco, but the intriguing conversations continue at this unapologetically old-school drinking den. A traditional hit with journalists, writers and politicians, it draws an older local crowd, here to catch up, debate, play chess or tap their fingers to free live jazz, the latter usually offered once a month on Sunday (check the website for dates).

GAY & LESBIAN COPENHAGEN

Copenhagen is one of the world's most gay-friendly cities. Highly inclusive festival Copenhagen Pride takes place in August, and LGBT film festival Mix Copenhagen hits screens in October. Useful websites include www.out-and-about.dk, www.lgbt.dk and (in English) http://rainbowbusinessdenmark.dk.

Many of the LGBT-specific cafes, bars and clubs are located in the Latin Quarter and just off Rådhuspladsen in the city centre.

Oscar Bar & CafeGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 09 99; www.facebook.com/oscarbarcafe; Regnbuepladsen 77; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g12, 14, 26, 33, bKøbenhavn H)

In the shadow of Rådhus, this friendly corner cafe-bar remains the most popular gay in the village. There's food for the peckish and a healthy quota of eye-candy locals and out-of-towners of all ages. In the warmer months, its alfresco tables are packed with revellers with one eye on friends, the other on Grindr.

Never MindGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/nevermindbar.dk; Nørre Voldgade 2; h10pm-6am; g2A, 5C, 6A, 250S)

If you can't take crowds and cigarette smoke, keep moving. If you can, this tiny, loud, often packed gay bar is a seriously fun spot for shameless pop and late-night flirtation.

Jailhouse CPHGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jailhousecph.dk; Studiestræde 12; h3pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; W; g5C, 6A, 14)

Friendly, attitude-free and particularly popular with an older male crowd, this small, themed bar promises plenty of penal action, with uniformed 'guards' and willing guests. Skip the mediocre restaurant upstairs.

Nyhavn & the Royal Quarter

Many locals avoid the touristy bars lining Nyhavn, instead buying their liquor from small, seasonal convenience store Turs Havneproviant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 40 47; Lille Strandstræde 3; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv) and drinking it by the canal.

oNebbioloWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %60 10 11 09; http://nebbiolo-winebar.com; Store Strandstræde 18; h3pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g1A, 66, mKongens Nytorv)

Just off Nyhavn, this smart, contemporary wine bar and shop showcases wines from smaller, inspiring Italian vineyards. Wines by the glass are priced in one of three categories (75/100/125kr) and even those in the lowest price range are often wonderful.

oDen VandretteWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 14 82 28; www.denvandrette.dk; Havnegade 53A; h4-11pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to midnight Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat; g66, fNyhavn)

This is the harbourside wine bar for lauded wine wholesaler Rosforth & Rosforth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 55 20; www.rosforth.dk; Knippelsbrogade 10; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn). The focus is on natural and biodynamic drops, its short, sharply curated list of wines by the glass often including lesser-known blends like Terret Bourret–Vermentino. Guests are welcome to browse the cellar and pick their own bottle. Come summer, it has alfresco waterside tables and deckchairs for sun-kissed toasting.

Christianshavn

Christianshavns Bådudlejning og CaféBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 96 53 53; www.baadudlejningen.dk; Overgaden Neden Vandet 29; h9am-midnight Jun-Aug, reduced hours rest of year; W; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)

Right on Christianshavn's main canal, this festive, wood-decked cafe-bar is a wonderful spot for drinks by the water. It's a cosy, affable hang-out, with jovial crowds and strung lights. There's grub for the peckish and gas heaters and tarpaulins to ward off any northern chill. The cafe plans to resume its rental of little rowboats in 2018.

Eiffel BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 57 70 92; www.eiffelbar.dk; Wildersgade 58; h9am-3am; W; g2A, 9A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)

Don't be fooled by the name: dark, wood-panelled Eiffel Bar is a red-blooded Danish dive bar, and all the better for it. The joint dates back from 1737, when it was a hit with local sailors. The beer here is cheap, with all the standard local brews available on tap, plus a few Danish craft ales. A solid choice for an animated, amiable, old-school vibe.

Den Plettede GrisCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Trangravsvej 5; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W; g9A, fPapirøen)

The pocket-sized 'Spotted Pig' on Papirøen (Paper Island) belongs to Danish designer, artist, musician and all-round avant-gardiste Henrik Vibskov. Inside, the space is pure Vibskov, with elastic-band wall sculptures, splashes of pink and red, and an effortlessly cool, chilled-out vibe. Stop by for Swedish-roasted coffee or organic tea and cake, or guzzle boutique beers with ingredients like elderflower.

Warning: weekend opening times can get a little 'freestyle'.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

URBAN BEACH BAR

Copenhagen meets Ibiza at Halvandet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 27 02 96; www.halvandet.dk; Refshalevej 325, Refshaleøen; h4.30pm-late Wed & Thu, from noon Fri-Sun mid-Jun–Aug, reduced hours mid-Apr–mid-Jun; fRefshaleøen), a seasonal, harbourfront bar-lounge and activity centre (yes, you can play beach volleyball). Order a mojito and tan away to sexy lounge tunes. Edibles include sandwiches, grilled meats, seafood and salads, but the real reason to head in is the vibe and music. Opening times are weather-dependent, so always check Halvandet's Facebook page before heading in.

Halvandet is located north of Operaen, at the northern end of Amager.

Nørrebro & Østerbro

oCoffee CollectiveCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeecollective.dk; Jægersborggade 57, Nørrebro; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun; g8A)

Copenhagen's most prolific microroastery, Coffee Collective has helped revolutionise the city's coffee culture in recent years. Head in for rich, complex cups of caffeinated magic. The baristas are passionate about their single-origin beans and the venue itself sits at one end of creative Jægersborggade in Nørrebro. There are three other outlets, including at gourmet food market Torvehallerne KBH and in Frederiksberg.

oBrusMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 22 22 00; http://tapperietbrus.dk; Guldbergsgade 29F, Nørrebro; h3pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; g5C)

What was once a locomotive factory is now a huge, sleek, hip brewpub. The world-renowned microbrewery behind it is To Øl, and the bar's 30-plus taps offer a rotating selection of To Øl standards and small-batch specials, as well as eight on-tap cocktails. The barkeeps are affable and happy to let you sample different options before you commit.

oMikkeller & FriendsMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 83 10 20; www.mikkeller.dk/location/mikkeller-friends; Stefansgade 35, Nørrebro; h2pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, noon-2am Sat; W; g5C, 8A)

Looking suitably cool with its turquoise floors and pale ribbed wood, Mikkeller & Friends is a joint venture of the Mikkeller and To Øl breweries. Beer geeks go gaga over the 40 artisan draft beers and circa 200 bottled varieties, which might include a chipotle porter or an imperial stout aged in tequila barrels. Limited snacks include dried gourmet sausage and cheese.

A sneaky passageway at the back of the venue leads into Koelschip, a wonderfully snug, vintage-style beer bar with around 250 Belgian and Belgian-style brews.

RustCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 24 52 00; www.rust.dk; Guldbergsgade 8, Nørrebro; hhours vary, club usually 8.30pm-5am Fri & Sat; W; g3A, 5C, 350S)

A smashing, multilevel place attracting one of the largest, coolest, most relaxed crowds in Copenhagen. Live acts focus on alternative or upcoming indie rock, hip-hop or electronica. At 11pm, the venue transforms into a club, with local and international DJs pumping out anything from classic hip-hop to electro, house and more.

From 11pm, entrance is only to over 18s (Wednesday and Thursday) and over 20s (Friday and Saturday). See the website for upcoming acts.

Nørrebro BryghusBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 30 05 30; www.noerrebrobryghus.dk; Ryesgade 3, Nørrebro; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; g3A, 5C, 350S)

This now-classic brewery kick-started the microbrewing craze more than a decade ago. While its in-house restaurant serves a decent lunchtime burger as well as fancier New Nordic dishes in the evening, head here for the beers, including the brewery's organic draught beer and a string of fantastic bottled options, from pale and brown ales to 'The Evil', a malty, subtly smokey imperial porter.

KassenBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 57 22 00; http://kassen.dk; Nørrebrogade 18B, Nørrebro; h8pm-late Wed, Thu & Sat, from 4pm Fri; g5C)

Loud, sticky Kassen sends livers packing with its dirt-cheap drinks and happy-hour specials (80kr cocktails, anyone?). Guzzle unlimited drinks on Wednesdays for 250kr, with two-for-one deals running the rest of the week: all night Thursdays, 4pm to 10pm Fridays and 8pm to 10pm Saturday. Cocktail choices are stock-standard and a little sweet, but think of the change in your pocket.

Pours are generous and the crowd mixed and fun.

Kind of BlueBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26 35 10 56; www.kindofblue.dk; Ravnsborggade 17, Nørrebro; h4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; W; g5A, 350S)

Chandeliers, heady perfume and walls painted a hypnotic 1950s blue: the spirit of the Deep South runs deep at intimate Kind of Blue. Named after the Miles Davis album, it's never short of a late-night hipster crowd, kicking back porters and drinking in owner Claus' personal collection of soul-stirring jazz, blues and folk. You'll find it on Nørrebro's bar-packed Ravnsborggade.

Vesterbro & Frederiksberg

oMikkeller BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 31 04 15; http://mikkeller.dk; Viktoriagade 8B-C, Vesterbro; h1pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, noon-2am Sat; W; g6A, 9A, 10, 14, 26, bKøbenhavn H)

Low-slung lights, milk-green floors and 20 brews on tap: cool, cult-status Mikkeller flies the flag for craft beer, its rotating cast of suds including Mikkeller's own acclaimed creations and guest drops from microbreweries from around the globe. Expect anything from tequila-barrel-aged stouts to yuzu-infused fruit beers. The bottled offerings are equally inspired, with cheese and snacks to soak up the foamy goodness.

oLidkoebCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 20 10; www.lidkoeb.dk; Vesterbrogade 72B, Vesterbro; h4pm-2am Mon-Sat, from 8pm Sun; W; g6A, 26)

Lidkoeb loves a game of hide-and-seek: follow the 'Lidkoeb' signs into the second, light-strung courtyard. Once found, this top-tier cocktail lounge rewards with passionate barkeeps and clever, seasonal libations. Slip into a Børge Mogensen chair and toast to Danish ingenuity with Nordic bar bites and seasonal drinks like the Freja's Champagne: a gin-based concoction with muddled fresh ginger, lemon and maraschino liqueur.

Extras include a dedicated whisky bar upstairs, open Friday and Saturday nights only.

oCoffee CollectiveCOFFEE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %60 15 15 25; https://coffeecollective.dk; Godthåbsvej 34b, Frederiksberg; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, from 10am Sun)

It's right here that Copenhagen's coffee heavyweight roasts its prized, specialty beans, used for its espresso and third wave brews. On the first Friday of the month, the roast-master offers popular roastery tours and cupping sessions (150kr). The price includes a bag of the good stuff to take home and brew. See the website for details.

FermentorenCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23 90 86 77; http://fermentoren.com; Halmtorvet 29C, Vesterbro; h3pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 2pm-1am Thu & Fri, 2pm-2am Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun; W; g1A, 10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

Serious local beer fans flock to this cosy, candlelit basement bar. Its 24 taps pour an ever-changing cast of in interesting craft brews, both traditional and edgy. Look out for local brews from the likes of Evil Twin, Ghost and Gamma, as well as Fermentoren's own pale ale. Staff are extremely knowledgeable, offering expert advice without the attitude.

FalernumWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 22 30 89; www.falernum.dk; Værnedamsvej 16, Vesterbro; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g6A, 9A, 31)

Worn floorboards, mismatched vintage chairs and a grown-up crowd give Falernum a deliciously snug, familial air. You'll find around 40 wines by the glass alone, as well as boutique beers, coffee, and a seasonal menu of soulful sharing plates; standouts include mushroom toast with egg yolk and fermented garlic.

Mesteren & LærlingenBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Mesteren-Lærlingen-215687798449433; Flæsketorvet 86, Vesterbro; h8pm-3am Wed & Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; W)

In a previous life, Mesteren & Lærlingen was a slaughterhouse bodega. These days it's one of Copenhagen's in-the-know drinking holes, its tiled walls packing in an affable indie crowd of trucker caps and skinny jeans. Squeeze in and sip good spirits (including a decent mezcal selection) to DJ-spun soul, reggae, hip-hop and dance hall. Wi-fi is available if you ask politely.

KBIIICLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 23 45 97; www.kb3.dk; Kødboderne 3, Vesterbro; hbar 8pm-late Thu-Sat, club 11pm-4am Fri & Sat; g1A, bDybbølsbro)

KBIII is the biggest club in the kicking Kødbyen (Meatpacking District), aptly occupying a giant former meat freezer. Although events span film screenings, live acts, burlesque and release parties, the emphasis is on thumping club tunes from resident and global DJs, with past deck guests including Just Blaze and Secondcity. Come summer, the club's backyard is a buzzing party spot.

BakkenBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Flæsketorvet 19-21; h9pm-5am Thu, from 6pm Fri & Sat; g10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

Affordable drinks, DJ-spun disco and rock, and a Meatpacking District address make intimate, gritty Bakken a magnet for revellers.

DON'T MISS

LATE-NIGHT ELECTRONICA

Electronica connoisseurs swarm to Culture Box ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 50 50; www.culture-box.com; Kronprinsessegade 54A; hCulture Box Bar 6pm-1am Thu-Sat, Red Box 11pm-late Fri & Sat, Black Box midnight-late Fri & Sat; g26), known for its impressive local and international DJ line-ups and sharp sessions of electro, techno, house and drum'n'bass. The club is divided into three spaces: pre-clubbing Culture Box Bar, intimate club space Red Box, and heavyweight Black Box, where big-name DJs play the massive sound system.

3Entertainment

Copenhagen's entertainment offerings are wide, varied and sophisticated. On any given night choices will include ballet, opera, theatre, clubbing and live tunes spanning indie and blues to pop. The city has a world-renowned jazz scene, with numerous jazz clubs drawing top talent. Most events can be booked through Billetnet (%70 15 65 65; www.billetnet.dk), which has an outlet at Tivoli. You can also try Billetlugen (%70 26 32 67; www.billetlugen.dk).

Cinema

You'll find a handful of cinemas just north of Tivoli Gardens near Vesterport train station, among them multiscreen Dagmar Teatret (www.nfbio.dk/biografer/dagmar), which screens a mix of first-release mainstream and independent films. Popular art-house cinemas include the historic Grand Teatret ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 15 16 11; www.grandteatret.dk; Mikkel Bryggers Gade 8; h11am-10.30pm; W; g12, 14, 26, 33, bKøbenhavn H) and the Danish Film Institute's Cinemateket ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 74 34 12; www.dfi.dk; Gothersgade 55; h9.30am-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, noon-7.30pm Sun; g350S). As in the rest of Denmark, films are generally shown in their original language with Danish subtitles. Expect to pay around 90kr for a ticket.

Dance, Opera, Theatre & Classical Music

Copenhagen's landmark Operaen (Opera House) hosts world-class seasons of works spanning time-honoured classics and contemporary operas (subtitled in Danish). Across the water, the equally state-of-the-art Skuespilhuset delivers Danish and non-Danish theatre, again both classic and freshly minted. The grand old Det Kongelige Teater focuses on top-tier ballet and opera, while across town, contemporary dance is served up at Dansehallerne. On the island of Amager is DR Koncerthuset, home of the Danish National Symphony Orchestra and National Chamber Orchestra, and the venue for an eclectic mix of concerts spanning classical, chamber, jazz, rock and experimental.

Det Kongelige TeaterBALLET, OPERA

(Royal Theatre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 69 69 69; https://kglteater.dk; Kongens Nytorv; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

These days, the main focus of the opulent Gamle Scene (Old Stage) is world-class opera and ballet, including productions from the Royal Danish Ballet. The current building, the fourth theatre to occupy the site, was completed in 1872 and designed by Vilhelm Dahlerup and Ove Petersen. Book tickets in advance.

SkuespilhusetTHEATRE

(Royal Danish Playhouse; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 69 69 69; https://kglteater.dk; Sankt Anne Plads 36; g66, fNyhavn, mKongens Nytorv)

Copenhagen's harbourside playhouse is home to the Royal Danish Theatre and a world-class repertoire of homegrown and foreign plays. Productions range from the classics to provocative contemporary works. Tickets often sell out well in advance, so book ahead if you're set on a particular production. English-language tours (120kr) are available in July and August; see the website for details.

OperaenOPERA

(Copenhagen Opera House; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 33 69 69 69; www.kglteater.dk; Ekvipagemestervej 10; g9A, fOperaen)

Designed by the late Henning Larsen, Copenhagen's state-of-the-art opera house has two stages: the Main Stage and the smaller, more experimental Takkeløftet. The repertoire runs the gamut from blockbuster classics to contemporary opera. While the occasional opera is sung in English, all subtitles are in Danish only. Tickets can be booked directly via the website.

DansehallerneDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 33 88 80 08; www.dansehallerne.dk; Bohrsgade 19, Vesterbro; g1A, bCarlsberg)

Dansehallerne is Copenhagen's leading contemporary-dance venue. Located in a disused Carlsberg mineral-water factory, its stages showcase a busy season of works from international ensembles as well as Danish artists. Some performances take place off-site, in unusual locations across the city. Purchase tickets online or at the box office, the latter open between 1pm and 3pm on weekdays.

Københavns MusikteaterTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 55 56; www.kobenhavnsmusikteater.dk; Emblasgade 175, Nørrebro; g4A, 42)

Push your boundaries at Copenhagen’s avant-garde music theatre venue, delivering a wide range of artistic crossover performances. All works include newly composed or reinterpreted compositions, with genres including classical and chamber music, electronica, poetic pop and rock. Check the website for upcoming performances.

DR KoncerthusetCONCERT VENUE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %35 20 62 62; www.dr.dk/Koncerthuset; Emil Holms Kanal 20, Amager; mDR Byen)

Home of the National Symphony Orchestra and National Chamber Orchestra, Jean Nouvel’s bold blue box hosts world-class concerts spanning from classical, chamber and choral music to rock, pop, jazz and experimental sounds. Check the website for a list of upcoming events.

Tivoli KoncertsalCONCERT VENUE

(Concert Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tivoli.dk; Tietgensgade 30; g1A, 2A, 5C, 9A, 37, 250S, bKøbenhavn H)

The Tivoli concert hall hosts Danish and international symphony orchestras, string quartets and other classical-music performances, not to mention contemporary music artists and dance companies. Purchase tickets online or at the Tivoli Box Office by the main Tivoli Gardens entrance on Vesterbrogade.

Live Music

Huset-KBHLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21 51 21 51; www.huset-kbh.dk; Rådhusstræde 13; hhours vary; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37)

Huset KBH is a local institution, churning out almost 1500 annual events spanning live music, theatre and art-house film, to poetry slams, cabaret and stand-up comedy. The complex also houses Bastard Cafė, a popular cafe-bar jam-packed with a massive selection of board games, both mainstream and obscure.

Vega LiveLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 25 70 11; www.vega.dk; Enghavevej 40, Vesterbro; W; g3A, 10, 14, bDybbølsbro)

The daddy of Copenhagen's live-music venues, Vega hosts everyone from big-name rock, pop, blues and jazz acts to underground indie, hip-hop and electro up-and-comers. Gigs take place on either the main stage (Store Vega), small stage (Lille Vega) or the ground-floor Ideal Bar. Performance times vary; check the website.

Interestingly, the venue is a 1950s former trade union HQ revamped by leading Danish architect Vilhelm Lauritzen.

LoppenLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 57 84 22; www.loppen.dk; Sydområdet 4B; h8.30pm-late Sun-Thu, 9pm-late Fri & Sat; W; g9A, 2A, 37, 350S, mChristianshavn)

Rocking out in a wooden-beamed warehouse in live-and-let-live Christiania, Loppen delivers both established and emerging acts from Denmark and beyond. Music styles are as eclectic as the crowds, with anything from rock and funk to post-punk, jazz and electronic. While gigs generally take place Wednesday to Sunday, always check the website before heading in.

MojoBLUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 64 53; www.mojo.dk; Løngangstræde 21C; h8pm-5am; g1A, 2A, 9A, 12, 14, 26, 33, 37, bKøbenhavn H)

East of Tivoli, this is a great spot for deep, soulful blues and its associated genres, from bluegrass and zydeco to soul. There are live acts nightly, followed by DJ-spun tunes. The vibe is warm, convivial and relaxed, and there's draught beer aplenty.

ALL THAT JAZZ

Copenhagen has been the jazz capital of Scandinavia since the 1920s, when the Montmartre Club was one of the most famous in Europe. Revived in 2010 after a long hiatus, the rebooted Jazzhus Montmartre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %70 26 32 67; www.jazzhusmontmartre.dk; Store Regnegade 19A; h6pm-midnight Thu-Sat; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv) is in good company, with top venues such as La Fontaine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 60 98; www.lafontaine.dk; Kompagnistræde 11; h7pm-5am daily, live music from 10pm Fri & Sat, from 9pm Sun; g14), the city's most 'hardcore' jazz club, and Jazzhouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 15 47 00; www.jazzhouse.dk; Niels Hemmingsensgade 10; hfrom 7pm Mon-Thu, from 8pm Fri-Sat; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37), the largest and most popular, ensuring that legacy remains alive and kicking. Several bars have low-key live jazz and blues too, including most Thursdays at Lo-Jo's Social ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 88 64 65; www.lojossocial.com; Landemærket 7; hbar 11.30am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, kitchen; g350S, mNørreport, bNørreport) and roughly monthly at Palæ

Copenhagen's 10-day Jazz Festival, first launched in 1978, has become the biggest entertainment event in the city's calendar, mushrooming into one of Europe's leading jazz events. Over the years it has attracted countless great performers including Dizzy Gillespie, Miles Davis, Sonny Rollins, Oscar Peterson, Ray Charles, Tony Bennett, Herbie Hancock and Wynton Marsalis.

Spanning every form of jazz, the programme includes around 1400 different concerts held in every available space, from cafes and street corners to the Operaen (Opera House) and Tivoli's Koncertsal – in fact, the city itself becomes one big sound stage. Amble through the city centre on a summer night during the festival and the party mood is nothing short of infectious. And if you can't make it to Copenhagen in summer, come in February for smaller, mellower Vinter Jazz (http://jazz.dk; hFeb).

7Shopping

Strøget is the city's retail ground zero for everything from clothing to design to food, with parallel Strædet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g1A, 2A,9A, 14, 26, 37, 66) (combining Kompagnistræde and Læderstræde streets) good for antiques and local ceramics. In Vesterbro, look around Værndamsvej and gritty-turned-vibrant Istedgade for an eclectic mix of in-the-know fashion, art and design. Arty Nørrebro has interesting independent shops on Elmegade and Jægersborggade, affordable bric-a-brac along Ravnsborggade and, held on Saturdays, April to October, Nørrebro Loppemarked ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.berling-samlerting.dk/32693948; Nørrebrogade, Nørrebro; h8am-3pm Sat Apr-Oct; g5C, 8A, 350S) is Denmark's biggest flea-market. Head to Nørreport for gourmet food and drink, handcrafted bags and more top fashion. Right on Rådhuspladsen, Politikens Boghal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 67 28 06; https://politikensforlag.dk/politikens-boghal/c-9; Rådhuspladsen 37; h9am-7pm Mon & Tue, to 8pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; g2A, 5C, 6A, 10, 250S) is the city's biggest bookshop, while Posterland ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 28 21; www.posterland.dk; Gothersgade 45; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; g350S, mKongens Nytorv) is great for postcards, calendars and fridge magnets as well as excellent posters.

oIllums BolighusDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 19 41; www.illumsbolighus.dk; Amagertorv 8-10; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 8pm Fri, 11am-6pm Sun; W; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66, mKongens Nytorv)

Design fans hyperventilate over this sprawling department store, its four floors packed with all things Nordic and beautiful. You'll find everything from ceramics, glassware, jewellery and fashion to throws, lamps, furniture and more. It's also a handy spot to pick up some X-factor souvenirs, from posters, postcards and notebooks adorned with vintage Danish graphics to design-literate Danish wallets and key rings.

oDesigner ZooDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 24 94 93; www.dzoo.dk; Vesterbrogade 137, Vesterbro; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; g6A)

If you find yourself in Vesterbro – and you should – make sure to drop into this supercool design hub. A store, gallery and workshop complex in one (the staff are actual designers and artisans), it's a platform for independent Danish design talent. Scan both floors for locally made limited-edition objects spanning jewellery, soft furnishings and furniture to ceramics and glassware.

oHay HouseDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 82 08 20; www.hay.dk; Østergade 61; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66, mKongens Nytorv)

Rolf Hay’s fabulous interior-design store sells its own coveted line of furniture, textiles and design objects, as well as those of other fresh, innovative Danish designers. Easy-to-pack gifts include anything from notebooks and ceramic cups, to building blocks for style-savvy kids. There’s a second branch at Pilestræde 29-31.

oStillebenDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 45 11 31; https://stilleben.dk; Frederiksborggade 22; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; g350S, mNørreport, bNørreport)

One of Copenhagen's top design stores, Stilleben is famed for its graphic prints, not to mention its stock of unique objects from mostly smaller-scale Scandi designers. Go gaga over all things beautiful and kooky, from boldly patterned cups, jugs, vases and tea cosies to striking sofa cushions, sculptural candle holders, jewellery, bags, socks and more.

There's another location just off Strøget ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 91 11 31; www.stilleben.dk; Niels Hemmingsensgade 3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66, mKongens Nytorv).

Royal CopenhagenCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %38 14 96 05; www.royalcopenhagen.com; Amagertorv 6; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66, mKongens Nytorv)

This is the main showroom for the historic Royal Copenhagen porcelain, one of the city's best-loved souvenir choices. Its 'blue fluted' pattern is famous around the world, as is the painfully expensive Flora Danica dinner service, its botanical illustrations the work of 18th-century painter Johann Christoph Bayer.

Wood WoodFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 35 62 64; www.woodwood.dk; Grønnegade 1; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Unisex Wood Wood's flagship store is a solid spot for distinctive street fashion. Top of the heap are Wood Wood's own playful creations, made with superlative fabrics and attention to detail. The supporting cast includes sneakers, unconventional threads from designers like Comme des Garçons Play, Peter Jansen and Gosha Rubchinskiy, as well as accessories spanning fragrances and wallets to quirky eyewear.

Vanishing PointHANDICRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25 13 47 55; www.vanishing-point.dk; Jægersborggade 45, Nørrebro; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; g8A)

On trendy Jægersborggade, Vanishing Point is a contemporary craft shop and studio showcasing quirky ceramics, unique jewellery, handmade knits and quilts, as well as engaging, limited-edition prints. Most items are created on-site, while some are the result of a collaboration with non-profits around the world. The aim: to inspire a sustainable and playful lifestyle through nature, traditional craft techniques and humour.

Klassik Moderne MøbelkunstDESIGN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 33 90 60; www.klassik.dk; Bredgade 3; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Close to Kongens Nytorv, Klassik Moderne Møbelkunst is Valhalla for lovers of Danish design, with a trove of classics from greats like Poul Henningsen, Hans J Wegner, Arne Jacobsen, Finn Juhl and Nanna Ditzel – in other words, a veritable museum of Scandinavian furniture from the mid-20th century.

Bornholmer ButikkenFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30 72 00 07; www.bornholmerbutikken.dk; Stall F6, Hall 1, Torvehallerne KBH; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; W; g15E, 150S, 185, mNørreport, bNørreport)

The Bornholm Store in Torvehallerne Market peddles specialties from the Danish island of Bornholm, famed for its prized local edibles. Tasty treats to bring home include honeys, relishes and jams, Johan Bülow liquorice, charcuterie, cheeses, herring, liquors and craft beers.

OstekælderenCHEESE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 13 64 18; Gothersgade 41; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, to 5pm Fri; g350S, mKongens Nytorv)

Complete with sawdust floors, this charming basement cheese shop is the city's oldest, dating from 1888. Although its long-time owners Vivvi and Hesluf retired in 2017, the tradition continues and the place remains a top spot to pick up well-priced, interesting Danish cheeses like Samsø, a cow's-milk variety with Swiss-cheese-like consistency and a nutty, pungent flavour.

Sømods BolcherFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 12 60 46; www.soemods-bolcher.dk; Nørregade 36; h9.15am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 10am-3.30pm Sat; g15E, 150S, 185, mNørreport, bNørreport)

An official Danish 'Royal Purveyor', Sømods Bolcher has been producing bolcher (hard candies) since 1891. The original techniques and recipes are still in use, passed down through four generations of the Sømod family. Pearl sugar is heated to 180°C and then shaped by hand (see this Monday to Friday at approximately 10.15am, noon, 1.30pm and 3pm), producing more than 70 varieties of sweets.

Gågron!HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 45 07 72; www.gagron.dk; Jægersborggade 48, Nørrebro; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.30pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun; g8A)

Gågron! peddles design-literate products with a conscience. The focus is on natural fibers and sustainable, recycled and upcycled materials, transformed into simple, stylish products for everyday use. Stock up on everything from kooky animal-shaped cutting boards and stylish cedar-wood serving trays to aprons and toiletry bags made with organic cotton.

PlaytypeGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %60 40 69 14; www.playtype.com; Værnedamsvej 6, Vesterbro; hnoon-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat; g6A, 9A, 26)

Print is alive, well and making font fans freak at Playtype, an online type foundry with its own real-life, hard-copy shop. The theme is Danish-designed fonts, showcased as letters, numbers and symbols on everything from posters and notebooks to postcards. Keep an eye out for the glyph-themed cups, guaranteed to sex up the dowdiest-looking workspace.

FINDING FASHION

Danish style is a global phenomenon; the fashion institute organises a global 'summit' pushing for sustainability in the industry, and Copenhagen has a fashion week as well as a truly outstanding range of designer boutiques.

Leading the way in women's apparel, model-turned-designer Stine Goya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32 17 10 10; https://stinegoya.com; Østerbrogade 46, Østerbro; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; g1A) marries clean Nordic simplicity with quirky details including svelte bee-print jumpsuits and canary-yellow bomber jackets featuring contemporary local artwork. She has a second branch at Gothersgade 58. At respected Danish brand Baum und Pferdgarten ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 30 10 90; www.baumundpferdgarten.com; Vognmagergade 2; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; g350S, mKongens Nytorv), collections by designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave inject a sense of quirkiness to structured silhouettes and beautiful fabrics. Day Birger et Mikkleson ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 45 88 80; www.day.dk; Pilestræde 16; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv) offer understated chic, bohemian spirit and subtle ethnic accents, and around the corner Malene Birger has her own shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 43 22 33; www.bymalenebirger.dk; Antonigade 10; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; g1A, 26, mKongens Nytorv) too. Crown Princess Mary is said to ride her bicycle to shop for hats at milliner Susanne Juul ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 25 22; www.susannejuul.dk; Store Kongensgade 14; h11am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; g1A, mKongens Nytorv).

NN07 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %38 41 11 41; www.nn07.com; Gammel Mønt 7; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv) gains plaudits for understated, contemporary Danish menswear in easy-to-match block colours. Guys and girls can find comfortable sweat tops, T-shirts and denim, as well as sharper contemporary threads at Samsøe & Samsøe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35 28 51 02; www.samsoe.com; Værnedamsvej 12, Vesterbro; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-4pm; g6A, 9A, 31), a label that's not afraid of unique patterns, colour and detailing. Storm ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 93 00 14; www.stormfashion.dk; Store Regnegade 1; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv) carries trendsetting labels with a youthful, urban vibe that attracts a cashed-up, street-smart style crew. Wood Wood also provides distinctive street fashion, and Pop Copenhagen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23 47 36 84; www.popcph.dk; Møntergade 5; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat; g350S, mKongens Nytorv) has sharp, youthful collections with inspirations from old-school rockers to contemporary club culture. Danish enfant terrible Henrik Vibskov ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 61 00; www.henrikvibskov.com; Krystalgade 6; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; g14, mNørreport, bNørreport) peddles boldly creative garb ranging from mid-century glamour to sculptural frocks inspired by geishas. Kyoto ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 31 66 36; http://kyoto.dk; Istedgade 95, Vesterbro; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 5pm Sat; g10, 14) is a top choice for multibrand, unisex gear, and don't overlook Magasin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 44 33; www.magasin.dk; Kongens Nytorv 13; h10am-8pm; g1A, 26, 350S, mKongens Nytorv) – Copenhagen's biggest and oldest department store. There's plenty of fabulous vintage clothing too – try Vintage 199 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %39 27 00 41; Jagtvej 199, Østerbro; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat; g8A) in Østerbro, Prag ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 79 00 50; www.pragcopenhagen.com; Vesterbrogade 98A, Vesterbro; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g3A, 6A) in Vesterbro and Time's Up ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 32 39 30; www.times-up.dk; Krystalgade 4; h11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; g14, mNørreport, bNørreport) in the Latin Quarter.

For accessories, The Last Bag ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 32 73 91; www.pietbreinholm.dk; Nansensgade 48; h11am-6pm Fri, by appointment rest of week; g37, mNørreport) features musician-turned-designer Piet Breinholm's classic leather satchels made with high-quality leather sourced from an ecofriendly Brazilian tannery. Leading silversmith Georg Jensen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 11 40 80; www.georgjensen.com; Amagertorv 4; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; g1A, 2A, 9A, 14, 26, 37, 66, mKongens Nytorv) has a flagship Copenhagen store, while Hoff ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %33 15 30 02; www.gallerihoff.dk; Østerbrogade 44, Østerbro; hnoon-6pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat; g1A, 14, 37) is also a treasure-trove of innovative jewellery in which each item is a veritable conversation piece to covet for a lifetime.

8Information

Internet Access

Free wi-fi is available at many museums, cafes and restaurants, as well as the overwhelming majority of accommodation options, from hotels and hostels to self-catering apartments. It's also offered at the Copenhagen Visitors Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %70 22 24 42; www.visitcopenhagen.com; Vesterbrogade 4A, Vesterbro; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year; W; g2A, 6A, 12, 14, 26, 250S, bKøbenhavn H) and the main public library, Københavns Hovedbibliotek ( GOOGLE MAP ; %33 66 30 00; https://bibliotek.kk.dk; Krystalgade 15; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; W; g14, mNørreport, bNørreport). The library also has computer terminals with internet access.

Left Luggage

Central Station has a left-luggage office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %24 68 31 77; per 24hr luggage per piece 70-80kr, max 10 days; h5.30am-1am Mon-Sat, 6am-1am Sun) and luggage lockers ( GOOGLE MAP ; per 24hr small/large 65/75kr, max 72hr). Both are located at the back of the station, near the exit into Reventlowsgade.

Copenhagen Airport offers three sizes of luggage lockers (24hr locker rental 80-120kr) in car park 4 (P4). Payment is by Visa or MasterCard only. Maximum rental period is seven consecutive days.

Medical Services

Private doctor and dentist visits vary but usually cost from around 1400kr. To contact a doctor, call 60 75 40 70.

Call %1813 before going to a hospital emergency department to save waiting time. The following hospitals have 24-hour emergency wards:

Amager Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 34 32 34; www.amagerhospital.dk; Italiensvej 1, Amager; g2A, 4A, 12, mAmager Strand) Southeast of the city centre.

Bispebjerg Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %35 31 23 73; www.bispebjerghospital.dk; Bispebjerg Bakke 23; bBispebjerg, Emdrup) Northwest of the city centre.

Frederiksberg Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %38 16 38 16; www.frederiksberghospital.dk; Nordre Fasanvej 57, Frederiksberg; h24hr; g4A, mFasanvej) West of the city centre.

Tandlægevagten ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1813; www.tandlægevagten.dk; Oslo Plads 14; g1A, bØsterport) Emergency dental service near Østerport station.

Steno Apotek ( GOOGLE MAP ; %33 14 82 66; www.stenoapotek.dk; Vesterbrogade 6C; h24hr; g6A, 26, bKøbenhavn H) A 24-hour pharmacy opposite Central Station.

Money

ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels, restaurants and shops. A small but growing number of businesses accept cards only, not cash.

Post

You'll find a handy post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %70 70 70 30; www.postnord.dk; Pilestræde 58; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; g350S, mKongens Nytorv) just north of the Latin Quarter in the city centre. Most postal services are now from counters within large supermarkets.

Tourist Information

Copenhagen Visitors Centre Copenhagen's excellent and informative information centre has a cafe and lounge with free wi-fi; it also sells the Copenhagen Card (www.copenhagencard.com; adult/child 10-15yr 24hr 389/199kr, 48hr 549/279kr, 72hr 659/329kr, 120hr 889/449kr).

Useful Websites

AVisit Copenhagen (www.visitcopenhagen.com) Useful, thematic information on everything from accommodation and sightseeing to dining, shopping and events.

ACPH Post (cphpost.dk) Online edition of the Copenhagen Post, with plenty of news and cultural insight. In English.

AAOK (www.aok.dk) Danish-language guide to all that's new and hot in Copenhagen, including restaurants and retail.

AKopenhagen (http://kopenhagen.dk) Top website for Copenhagen's art scene, with exhibition listings, news and interviews. In Danish.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Copenhagen Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 31 32 31; www.cph.dk; Lufthavnsboulevarden, Kastrup; mLufthavnen, bKøbenhavns Lufthavn), Scandinavia's busiest air hub, is in Kastrup, 9km southeast of the city centre. It's user-friendly, with quality eating, retail and information facilities, albeit 'silent' (ie without boarding calls).

Boat

DFDS Seaways ( GOOGLE MAP ; %33 42 30 00; www.dfdsseaways.com; Dampfærgevej 30; bNordhavn) One daily service to/from Oslo (one way from 675kr, 17¼ hours). Ferries depart from Søndre Frihavn, just north of Kastellet.

APolferries (www.polferries.com) Two daily bus-ferry combos to/from Poland (one way from 400kr). Bus 866 connects Copenhagen to Ystad in Sweden (1¼ hours), from where ferries travel to/from Świnoujście, Poland. Ferry crossings take between six and 7½ hours.

Bus

Copenhagen is well connected to the rest of Europe by daily (or near-daily) buses.

Flixbus ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.flixbus.com; bKøbenhavn H) runs services throughout Europe (limited services into Norway and Sweden, however). Destinations, timetables and prices are all online. Flixbus has dynamic pricing, so it pays to book ahead, and the routes may use stops that are different to the main bus stations, so check your options.

Train

All long-distance trains arrive at and depart from København H (Central Station), an imposing 19th-century, wooden-beamed hall with numerous facilities, including currency exchange, a police station, lockers, left-luggage facilities and food outlets. DSB Billetsalg (DSB Ticket Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %70 13 14 15; www.dsb.dk; Central Station, Bernstorffsgade 16-22; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun; bKøbenhavn H) is best for reservations and for purchasing international train tickets. Alternatively, you can make reservations on its website.

Destinations include the following:

ARoskilde (84kr, 20 to 35 minutes, three to nine hourly)

AHelsingør (108kr, 45 minutes, around every 20 minutes)

AOdense (308kr, 1¼ to two hours, at least twice hourly)

AAarhus (418kr, 2¾ to 3½ hours, one to three hourly)

AAalborg (468kr, 4½ to five hours, one to two hourly)

DB (www.bahn.com) runs direct Inter-City Express (ICE) trains from København H (Central Station) to Hamburg (from 298kr, 4¾ hours including ferry) several times daily including ferry crossing.

8Getting Around

We can't stress enough that by far the best way to see Copenhagen is on foot. There are few main sights or shopping quarters more than a 20-minute walk from the city centre.

Copenhagen's bus, metro (%70 15 16 15; www.m.dk), S-train (www.dsb.dk) and Harbour Bus network has an integrated ticket system based on seven geographical zones. Most of your travel within the city will be within two zones. Travel between the city and airport covers three zones.

The cheapest ticket (billet) covers two zones, offers unlimited transfers and is valid for one hour (adult/12 to 15 years 24/12kr). An adult with a valid ticket can take two children under the age of 12 free of charge.

If you plan on exploring sights outside the city, including Helsingør, the north coast of Zealand and Roskilde, you're better off buying a 24-hour ticket (all zones adult/12 to 15 years 130/65kr) or a seven-day FlexCard (all zones 675kr).

Alternatively, you can purchase a Rejsekort (www.rejsekort.dk), a touch-on, touch-off smart card valid for all zones and all public transport across Denmark. Available from the Rejsekort machines at metro stations, Central Station or the airport, the card costs 180kr (80kr for the card and 100kr in credit). To use, tap the Rejsekort against the dedicated sensors at train and metro stations or when boarding buses and commuter ferries, then tap off when exiting. Only tap off at the very end of your journey – if your journey involves a metro ride followed immediately by a bus ride, tap on at the metro station and again on the bus, but only tap off once you exit the bus.

The Copenhagen Card gives you unlimited public transport throughout the greater region of Copenhagen (including the airport). In addition, you get free entrance to 79 attractions and museums as well as discounts on several restaurants, sights, rentals and more.

Another option is the City Pass (www.citypass.dk), which covers all bus, train, metro and Harbour Buses in zones 1 to 4 (adult 24/72 hours 80/200kr, children travel half-price). You can purchase the City Pass online and receive it as a text that can be used immediately.

Around Copenhagen

Whether you're hankering for sandy beaches, modern art collections or an alfresco museum showcasing the more bucolic side of Danish history, Copenhagen's city fringes have you covered. Internationalists can even head abroad for the day: Sweden's third largest city, Malmö, is an effortless 35-minute train from Copenhagen Central Station via the majestic Øresund Fixed Link bridge and tunnel. (Just don't forget your passport!)

Around Copenhagen

1Top Sights

1LouisianaA1

1Sights

2Arken Museum of Modern ArtA4

3CykelslangenB4

4Den Blå PlanetB4

5FrilandsmuseetA2

6Karen Blixen MuseetA2

7OrdrupgaardB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Amager StrandparkB4

9BakkenB3

DyrehavenB3

10Havnebadet SluseholmenB4

11Helgoland BadeanstaltB4

5Eating

12Søllerød KroA2

Lyngby

FrilandsmuseetMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41 20 64 55; www.natmus.dk; Kongevejen 100, Lyngby; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun late Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year; g184, 194, bSorgenfri)F

The main sight of interest in the Lyngby area is Frilandsmuseet, a sprawling open-air museum of old countryside dwellings that have been gathered from sites around Denmark. Its 100-plus historic buildings are arranged in groupings that provide a sense of Danish rural life as it was in various regions and across different social strata.

Frilandsmuseet is an 850m signposted walk from Sorgenfri station, a 25-minute train journey from Central Station on S-train line B. You can also take bus 184 or 194, both of which stop at the entrance.

Rungsted & Humlebæk

oLouisianaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.louisiana.dk; Gammel Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; adult/student/child 125/110kr/free; h11am-10pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

This extraordinary museum of modern and contemporary art should be high on your 'to do' list even if you're not normally a gallery-goer. Along with its ever-changing, cutting-edge exhibitions, much of the thrill here is the glorious presentation. A maze-like web of halls and glass corridors weave through rolling gardens in which magnificent trees, lawns, a lake and a beach view set off monumental abstract sculptures (Henry Moore, Jean Arp, Max Ernst, Barbara Hepworth etc), making them feel like discovered totems.

It's hard to predict exactly which pieces from the gallery's huge, stellar collection will be on display. Such is the quality and breadth that even works by Pablo Picasso and Francis Bacon stay in storage much of the time. There's a better chance of seeing pieces by Alberto Giacometti and prominent Danish artist Asger Jorn, but rotations every two months or so mean that there's always more to discover. Kids are spoilt with an entire section of their own, where they can create masterpieces inspired by the gallery's exhibitions, using everything from crayons to interactive computers. And an evening program often includes art lectures and live music (typically Fridays). Great cafe and shop too.

Louisiana is in the pretty coastal town of Humlebæk, 30km north of Copenhagen. From Humlebæk train station, the museum is a 1.5km signposted walk northeast. Trains to Humlebæk run at least twice hourly from Copenhagen (92kr, 35 minutes) but if you're day-tripping, the 24-hour Copenhagen ticket (adult/child 130/65kr) is much better value. Hourly bus 388 from Helsingør stops right outside Louisiana (36kr, 17 minutes) and continues in half an hour to Rungsted, where it passes the Blixen museum.

Karen Blixen MuseetMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://blixen.dk; Rungsted Strandvej 111; adult/child 75kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 1-4pm Wed-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr)

Best known as the writer of (and Meryl Streep character in) Out of Africa, Karen Blixen grew up in a 400-year-old coaching inn at Rungsted. She returned here from Africa in 1931 bankrupt, heartbroken and suffering heavy-metal poisoning…then started to write. The house remains much as she left it, full of period furniture but also photographs, Masai spears, personal mementoes and two rooms of her remarkably impressive paintings.

The visit to the main house starts every half-hour with a 10-minute introductory talk. While waiting for that, you can look around the biographical room and library of Blixen's books that sit above the ticket desk and cafe. Once inside, there's also a 12-minute video presentation, and each of the seven rooms has a bilingual descriptive info-card. The wooded grounds behind, set aside as a bird sanctuary, contain Blixen’s grave, a simple stone slab beneath a large beech tree around 350m west of the house. You'll pass it if you take the short-cut route to the Rungsted Kyst train station (route map and directions available from the museum).

Charlottenlund & Klampenborg

Charlottenlund is a salubrious coastal suburb with a sandy beach, around 8km north of central Copenhagen. Access is via S-train line C to Klampenborg, which itself has a handy beach (Bellevue) that gets packed with summer sunbathers.

1Sights & Activities

OrdrupgaardMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %39 64 11 83; www.ordrupgaard.dk; Vilvordevej 110, Charlottenlund; adult/child 110kr/free; h1-5pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; g388, bKlampenborg, then)

An extension by the late architect Zaha Hadid put Ordrupgaard on the international map, but this petite art museum, housed in an early-20th-century manor house north of Copenhagen, has always had an enviable collection of 19th- and 20th-century art. The museum will be closed for two years from December 2017 as it builds an underground extension by prolific Norwegian architects Snöhetta. During this time, the museum's art park, which features site-specific installations by renowned contemporary artists, will remain open.

DyrehavenWALKING, CYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://eng.naturstyrelsen.dk; Dyrehaven, Klampenborg; bKlampenborg)

Formally called Jægersborg Dyrehave, Dyrehaven is a 1000-hectare sweep of beech trees and meadows crisscrossed by an alluring network of walking and cycling trails. Now the capital's most popular picnicking area, the grounds were established as a royal hunting ground in 1669. There are still about 2000 deer in the park, mostly fallow but also some red and Japanese sika deer. Among the red deer are a few rare white specimens, descendants of deer imported in 1737 from Germany, where they are now extinct.

Kastrup

Den Blå PlanetAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %44 22 22 44; www.denblaaplanet.dk; Jacob Fortlingsvej 1, Kastrup; adult/child 3-11yr 170/95kr; h10am-9pm Mon, to 5pm Tue-Sun; g5C, mKastrup)

Designed to look like a whirlpool from above, Copenhagen's aluminium-clad aquarium is the largest in northern Europe. The space is divided into climatic and geographic sections, the most spectacular of which is 'Ocean/Coral Reef'. Home to swarms of Technicolor tropical fish, the exhibition features a massive 4-million-litre tank brimming with sharks, stingrays and other majestic creatures. If possible, visit the aquarium on a Monday evening when it's at its quietest and most evocative.

Ishøj

Arken Museum of Modern ArtMUSEUM

(Ark; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %43 54 02 22; www.arken.dk; Skovvej 100, Ishøj; adult/child 115kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed; bIshøj)

Modern art fans wanting a quick escape from town should consider a trip to Arken. It's best known for its temporary exhibitions, spanning the usual modern art spectrum of site-specific installations, sculpture, painting and mixed-media works. The museum's permanent cache of post-1945 works include creations by Warhol, Damien Hirst and Ai Weiwei, as well as art by heavyweight Danes like Per Kirkeby, Asger Jorn and Olafur Eliasson. There's plenty to keep children intrigued too, including the wonderful sandy beach outside.

To get here from Copenhagen, take the S-train southwest to Ishøj station. From here, you can either catch bus 128 to the museum (five minutes) or walk (2.4km).