Southern Jutland

Why Go?

Southern Jutland gets its inspiration from a few sources – from the North Sea, naturally, but also from the south. This is the only part of Denmark connected to mainland Europe (by a 68km-long border), and in some places you can feel the historic ties with Germany.

This is a region of salty offshore islands, understated royal palaces and character-filled historic towns, with unexpectedly modern treats in the form of edgy art and architecture, and offbeat design museums. The jewel in the crown is Ribe, the country’s oldest town and historic Denmark at its most photogenic. The islands of Als, Fanø and Rømø have clear-cut appeal for beach-going holidaymakers, and bird-watchers also love this region. The tidal rhythms of the Wadden Sea bring an abundance of feathered friends (and their fanciers). An eclectic mix of royal-watchers, castle-collectors and design enthusiasts may also be ticking must-sees off their list.

When to Go

AIf it’s sunshine and beaches you’re after, June to August is the obvious time to join the crowds on islands such as Rømø, Fanø and Als – early June or late August are less crowded.

AThe region’s biggest festival (Tønder Festival) farewells summer in style in late August.

ARibe charms at any time of year – December is delightful, with a Christmas market and festivities that make the atmosphere extra hyggelig (cosy).

AThe attractions of larger towns (Kolding, Esbjerg, Sønderborg, Tønder) are also year-round.

ANote that in spring (March to April) and autumn (mid-September to October) there’s some unique bird-watching by the Wadden Sea; for oyster-harvesting you're best to visit between October and April.

Best Places to Eat

A Sønderho Kro

A Hattesgaard

A Restaurant Ros

A Industrien

A Kolvig

A Kislings

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Koldingfjord

A Sønderho Kro

A Schackenborg Slotskro

A Danhostel Ribe

A Kolding Hotel Apartments

A Hjerting Badehotel

Southern Jutland Highlights

1 Ribe Joining the night-watchman on an evening walk through Ribe's historic neighbourhoods.

2 Møgeltønder Dialling the cuteness factor up to 11 in a fairy-tale setting.

3 Fanø Sailing from modern, industrial Esbjerg to this island charmer in only 12 minutes.

4 Kolding Envying this town's appealing mix of the old and the new.

5 Sønderstrand Checking out the wind-driven blokarts and kite buggies at Rømø's Sønderstrand.

6 Wadden Sea National Park Seeing birds dance across the sky during the 'Sort Sol', or sampling freshly shucked oysters.

7 Tirpitz Investigating wartime stories and west-coast wilderness at this remarkable new museum.

Kolding

Pop 58,000

Kolding is an eminently likeable mid-sized town with a crowd-pleasing mix of old and new, encapsulated in its major drawcard, the hilltop castle Koldinghus.

Kolding

1Sights

2Borchs GårdB2

3Helligkorsgade 18B3

4Kolding BibliotekC1

4Sleeping

5Kolding Hotel ApartmentsA1

5Eating

6Den Blå CaféB2

7HyggefabrikkenB2

8Nicolai Biograf & CaféA1

9RafaelsB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

10You'll Never Walk Alone PubB3

1Sights & Activities

Stroll around the central lake spotting the town's oldest houses – 1595 Borchs Gård ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Akseltorv 2A), and the wonky 1589 Helligkorsgade 18 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Helligkorsgade) on an unassuming shopping strip. Then head to Trapholt to admire the modern furniture design for which Denmark is renowned.

The low-key religious settlement of Christiansfeld ( GOOGLE MAP ), an austere Unesco World Heritage Site, lies about 16km south.

oKoldinghusCASTLE, MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 33 81 00; www.koldinghus.dk; Koldinghus 1; adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm; c)

Koldinghus is Kolding’s extravagant showpiece, with the requisite turbulent history. A fortress occupied the land in 1268, while parts of the castle you see today can be traced to the mid-15th century. After a fire in 1808, the prevailing school of thought was that the castle would be left in ruins (at the time, the Danish state was at war and bankrupt). Now, however, the reborn castle shines, and the interplay between old and new architectural styles is a highlight.

There are very good displays, including collections of art and silverware, and changing contemporary exhibits – grab a floor plan to help find your way around. It’s a climb to the top of the tower but you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the town.

oTrapholtMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 30 05 30; www.trapholt.dk; Æblehaven 23; adult/child 110kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed; c)

Design buffs should get out of town to the Trapholt modern art and design museum, housed in an architectural wonder in Kolding's residential northeastern outskirts. There are a couple of classic artworks from the Skagen artists, vibrant modern pieces and a sculpture garden. Downstairs, the ace furniture collection has examples of covetable Danish chairs, with many fine examples by the likes of iconic designers Hans Wegner, Verner Panton and Arne Jacobsen.

One of Trapholt's more intriguing exhibits is Jacobsen’s prototype summerhouse, Kubeflex (the only one of its kind). It was designed by Jacobsen in 1969–70 and involves cubic modules designed to be added to as the need arose. The house is open at 1pm and 3pm daily (also at 11am weekends).

All up, Trapholt is one of the most impressive museums in Jutland – and the view-enriched cafe and gift shop are also top-notch. Take bus 7 or 9 to get here.

Kolding BibliotekLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %79 79 11 00; www.koldingbib.dk; Slotssøvejen 4; h8am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

Another example of how good Denmark's public spaces are. This modern library is home to inviting chill-out spaces, events, information desks and installations from Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson (the man behind the rainbow walkway atop Aarhus' ARoS art museum).

SlotssøBadetSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 01 50; www.ssbad.dk; Hospitalsgade 16; adult/child 68/43kr; h5.30am-9pm Mon & Wed, 6am-10pm Tue & Thu, 6am-6pm Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; c)

By the lake, this is a popular indoor swimming pool and waterpark. There's an attached spa and wellness centre.

4Sleeping

oDanhostel KoldingHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 91 40; www.danhostelkolding.dk; Ørnsborgvej 10; dm 215kr, d without/with bathroom 475/635kr; W)

This top-notch option is above a park about 1.5km north of the city centre (a 20-minute walk from the station). There are pleasant rooms in the older-style main building, and a newer annexe with private bathrooms and modern kitchen-dining area. It’s deservedly popular with families and backpackers; bus 2 stops nearby.

oHotel KoldingfjordHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 51 00 00; www.koldingfjord.dk; Fjordvej 154; r from 1195kr; iWs)

Play lord of the manor at this grand, castle-like estate (a former sanatorium) 7km east of the city, amid forest on Kolding Fjord (2km past Trapholt museum). It’s a gorgeously restful spot, with first-class facilities (indoor pool, free bikes, cafe, terrace and restaurant), and the rooms are an ode to Scandi minimalism and design. Good online deals.

oKolding Hotel ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 54 18 00; www.koldinghotelapartments.dk; Kedelsmedgangen 2; d/f apt from 805/1185kr; W)

This central, well-run lakeside complex does family holidays in style. On offer are stylishly furnished apartments of various sizes (sleeping up to six) in funky three-storey buildings – triangular, circular, octagonal and star-shaped (great when admired from the Koldinghus tower). It's a prime location, and real effort has gone into design and service. Parking and breakfast cost extra (packages available).

5Eating & Drinking

HyggefabrikkenEUROPEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42 92 04 77; www.hyggefabrikken.dk; Adelgade 7; 4-course menu 299kr; h5-10pm Mon-Sat)

The name (which means 'The Hygge Factory') may be the first thing that catches your eye here, but the set menu deserves attention: four courses including a welcome drink for 299kr. Begin with soup, followed by a tapas board, and end with dessert. The main dish is usually a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian. BYO wine, too.

RafaelsITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %88 82 32 32; www.rafaelspizzeria.com; Slotsgade 17; pizza & pasta 120-160kr; h5-9.30pm, plus noon-3pm Sat)

A buzzing, beloved local pizza joint, with pasta and risotto dishes too. Rustic interior and plenty of alfresco tables (or takeaway available).

Nicolai Biograf & CaféITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 03 02; www.nicolai-cafe.dk; Skolegade 2, entry on Blæsbjerggade; pizzas 88-138kr; h3-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; c)

Inside a renovated old school, the Nicolai cultural centre houses an art-house cinema alongside a relaxed cafe serving gourmet pizza. The weekend brunch buffet (168kr) is a hit with in-the-know locals – kids can visit the cinema while adults eat. There's also a great-value evening pizza and pasta buffet (118kr to 148kr, cheaper earlier in the week).

Den Blå CaféFRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 65 12; www.denblaacafe.dk; Slotsgade 4; lunch 100-150kr, dinner mains 145-250kr; h10am-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun)

The Blue Cafe has a decided French accent and a large alfresco area for people-watching. The menu draws from easy-pleasing bistro favourites (caesar salad, croque-monsieur, moules-frites etc). You can also drop by for coffee or late-night drinks.

You’ll Never Walk Alone PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 80 44; www.denengelskepub.dk; AL Passagen 2; h2-10pm Mon, noon-midnight Tue-Thu, 11am-late Fri & Sat, 2-8pm Sun)

Known in town simply as ‘the English pub’, this traditional boozer lies in a passage between Jernbanegade and Klostergade. Outdoor seating, meals, weekend live music and big-screen football matches give it an appeal beyond the 300-plus beers on the menu (including Danish microbrews).

8Information

Find online info at www.visitkolding.dk or snag brochures and maps from inside Kolding Bibliotek.

8Getting There & Away

Regular train services link to Esbjerg (101kr, 50 minutes) and most places in Jutland along with Odense (122kr, 40 minutes) and on to Copenhagen; some travel east may involve a change of train in Fredericia.

If you’re driving to/from Germany (82km), Rte 170 is a pleasant, if slower, alternative to the E45.

Christiansfeld

Pop 2950

The small town of Christiansfeld is an under-the-radar place that in 2015 was awarded Unesco World Heritage status for its unique history and homogenous if soberly unadorned yellow-brick architecture.

Founded in 1773 by the Moravian Church, a non-conformist Lutheran congregation, the town was designed to put their pioneering egalitarian philosophy into practice by creating a Protestant urban ideal. Across the road from the central church, Christiansfeld Centret ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 79 17 73; www.christiansfeldcentret.dk; Nørregade 14, Christiansfeld; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) is a visitor centre that provides an overview of what makes this design so special. Pick up a walking map here, outlining the town's buildings and their functions. And be sure to sample Christiansfeld's other claim to fame: its delicious honey cake (honningkage), sold from central bakeries.

From Kolding, take hourly bus 134 (32kr, 20 minutes).

Sønderborg

Pop 27,400

Sønderborg spreads along both sides of the Als Sund, joined by two bridges. Despite the mid-12th-century origins of its fortress, erected by Valdemar I (the Great), the place has a fundamentally modern feel.

Historically, Sønderborg's role as a battleground in two 19th-century wars against Germany has fundamentally shaped Denmark. In 1864, during the battle of Dybbøl, Danish forces gathered here while a bombardment of 80,000 German shells paved the way for the German occupation of southern Jutland that lasted some 60 years. Only after WWI did the region once again become Danish soil.

Bombardment of another kind continues today – the annual descent of German and Danish holidaymakers. Understandably, German is the second language in these parts with more limited English spoken.

1Sights

The town centre and Sønderborg Slot are on the east (Als) side of the Sund. The Dybbøl area and the train station are on the western (Jutland) side. Services can be found on the pedestrian street Perlegade, immediately north of Rådhustorvet.

Sønderborg SlotCASTLE, MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 25 39; www.museum-sonderjylland.dk; Sønderbro 1; adult/child 80kr/free; h10am-5pm Jun-Sep, to 4pm Tue-Sun Apr, May & Oct, 1-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Sønderborg Castle dates from the mid-12th century, when a stronghold was built on the site; later bastions were added for further fortification. It's rich in lore, and nowadays it houses a museum of regional history with exhibits on the wars of 1848 and 1864 as well as paintings from the Danish ‘Golden Age’ and insight into the political history of the region.

Between 1532 and 1549 the castle was used to hold the deposed king, Christian II. In the late 16th century the fortified castle was turned into a royal residence (the 1568 chapel rates as one of Europe’s oldest preserved royal chapels). It took on its baroque appearance during further restorations in 1718. During the German occupation it was used as a German barracks.

Historiecenter Dybbøl BankeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 48 90 00; www.museum-sonderjylland.dk; Dybbøl Banke 16; adult/child 120/70kr; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; c)

On 18 April 1864 the German army steamrolled the Danes and took control of southern Jutland until the end of WWI. On the western edge of town, this history centre gives an informative glimpse into the bloody war of 1864, with demonstrations and storytelling. Although it offers typically high-quality displays of a very important time, if you’re not Danish, German or have no interest in military history, it can probably be skipped. Bus 1 runs out here from town.

Twice bombed, the nearby Dybbøl Mølle ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 48 90 00; www.museum-sonderjylland.dk; Dybbøl Banke 7; adult/child 45/30kr; h11am-4pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct) is as much a national symbol as a windmill and contains exhibits that explain the site's symbolism.

WORTH A TRIP

GRÅSTEN ROYAL PALACE GARDENS

For three weeks each summer the sleepy town of Gråsten (population 4200) is abuzz as Queen Margrethe and Prince Henrik (and usually the extended family) head for some R&R at their summer residence, Gråsten Slot. The lake-side palace itself is private but when the royals aren't visiting, its lovely garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.royalpalaces.dk/en; Slotsgade; hfrom 7.30am) is open to the public (till 4.30pm in winter, as late as 8pm in summer). For a few hours a week, the richly adorned chapel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 65 14 54; Slotsbakken 1; h11am-2pm Mon, 10am-noon Sat, 2-4pm Sun Apr-Oct) is also accessible. Built between 1699 and 1702, that's the only section of the originally 16th-century castle to survive a 1757 fire – today's main palace building dates mostly from 1842. Signs on the garden gates indicate dates that the site is closed to the public, or check online for royal family activity at http://kongehuset.dk/en. From Sønderborg (42kr) take bus 223 (30 minutes) or Flensburg-bound route 110 (22 minutes).

4Sleeping

The city has a good assortment of accommodation, including business-minded hotels, an idyllically located camping ground ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 41 89; www.sonderborgcamping.dk; Ringgade 7; per adult/child/site 80/35/45kr; hApr-Sep; W) close to the yacht marina and a Danhostel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 31 12; www.sonderborgdanhostel.dk; Kærvej 70; dm 175kr, s/d/f 435/450/540kr; iW) that's 15 minutes' walk north of the town centre (or a hop by bus 3).

oHotel Bella ItaliaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 54 00; www.bella-it.dk; Lille Rådhusgade 29-33; s/d incl breakfast 998/1198kr; W)

Newly opened, this boutique hotel is a smart, fresh option attached to a popular Italian restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 54 00; www.bella-it.dk; Lille Rådhusgade 33; pizza & pasta 89-150kr, mains 199-329kr; h5-9.30pm). Stylish, well-equipped rooms are crisply decorated in whites and charcoals.

Hotel Sønderborg GarniHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 34 33; www.hotelsoenderborg.dk; Kongevej 96; s/d incl breakfast from 650/875kr; W)

Friendly service and a prime location in an upmarket residential neighbourhood sweeten the gloomy appearance of this small hotel (complete with turret). The 1904 building has 18 rooms, all different (the cheapest singles are tiny) and with a homely, relaxed feel.

5Eating

You’ll find a selection of eateries down by the harbour (on Havnegade) and a bunch of all-day cafe-bars on Rådhustorvet. Stairs link the two areas.

oKislingsCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kislings.dk; Perlegade 49; snacks & meals 20-89kr; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 3pm Sat)

Get caffeinated here, on what may just be southern Jutland's best coffee. This stylish main-street cafe boasts a lovely garden area, eclectic decor, and a short menu of high-quality local produce and tasty breads.

Café Ib Rehne CairoINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 04 00; www.ibrehnecairo.dk; Rådhustorvet 4; meals 79-225kr; h10am-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)

Named after the sign-off of a veteran Danish correspondent, this all-day cafe-bar sports fresh decor and a classic-hits menu (smørrebrød, burgers, salads). The alfresco tables on the square get a workout from brunchtime, but there’s also a loungey area inside, perfect for evening cocktails. The kitchen closes around 9pm.

8Information

On the main street, the tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 42 35 55; www.visitsonderborg.com; Perlegade 50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) shares space with a cafe specialising in local food.

8Getting There & Away

Trains depart every two hours to Kolding (162kr, 80 minutes) via Gråsten and eventually to Copenhagen (388kr, 3½ hours).

The bus station is more central, a block east of Perlegade. Bus 225 runs to Fynshav (32kr, 25 minutes) on the east coast of Als, from where car ferries leave thrice daily to Søby on Ærø and seven to 12 times daily to Bøjden (near Faaborg on Funen). Bus 110 connects to Flensburg (Germany) via Gråsten.

8Getting Around

Town buses 1 and 2 connect the Jutland-side train station to the town centre.

EXPLORING ALS

For a snapshot of a laid-back Danish country life, take lazy drives or cycle rides out of Sønderborg around the island of Als, perhaps to the sheltered southern beach at Kegnæs, or to engaging little villages on the east coast. More conveniently, hop just 10km along Rte 8 to Augustenborg where you can wander the gardens and sculpture park of the grand yellow-and-white Augustenborg Slot.

Padborg

Pop 4390

Right by the German border, Padborg is best known for its motor-racing circuit (padborgpark.dk). But also intriguing, 4km northwest of town, is the site of WWII internment camp Frøslevlejren ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 67 65 57; www.natmus.dk; Lejrvej 83, Padborg; adult/child 50kr/free; h10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year, closed Dec & Jan). It was used first by Germans to 'weed out' Danish patriots for deportation, then after the war ended and power dynamics changed, to house new inmates suspected as Nazi collaborators. A museum here tells fascinating stories of the Danish Resistance movement. No public transport.

Tønder

Pop 7600

Tønder is an appealing place that’s had a rocky journey through serious flooding to German annexation; strong German links remain (not surprising, given Tønder’s proximity to the border, just 4km south).

During the 16th century, a series of dikes were erected to prevent the imminent threat of flooding. In doing so, the town isolated itself from its sea-port connection and turned elsewhere for economic prosperity. Lacemaking was introduced – an economic windfall that employed up to 12,000 workers during its peak in the 18th century.

1Sights

Tønder MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 89 89; www.museum-sonderjylland.dk; Wegners Plads 1; adult/child 70kr/free; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, closed Mon Sep-May)

Three-in-one Tønder Museum houses Kulturhistorie Tønder, a collection of delicate Tønder lace and decoratively painted furniture. In the adjacent wing is Kunstmuseet i Tønder, home to changing art exhibitions. Our favourite feature is the 1902 Vandtårnet (water tower), with panoramic views. Take the lift up and walk down – on each of the tower’s eight floors are the fabulous chair designs of locally born Hans Wegner, one of the most innovative and prolific of all Danish furniture designers.

You will no doubt have seen Wegner's designs on your travels through Denmark – check out the Ox Chair on the 5th floor, the quirky Valet Chair on the 4th floor, and the Peacock and Wishbone chairs on the 2nd floor.

UldgadeSTREET

( GOOGLE MAP )

For a glimpse of the past, head south from Torvet along Søndergade and turn right into Uldgade. The cobbled street has Tønder’s best collection of unique gabled houses. It ends in a sweet square that has a couple of interesting dining options.

Drøhses HusMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 49 90; www.museum-sonderjylland.dk; Storegade 14; adult/child 50kr/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Apr-Dec, plus open Mon Jun-Aug)

On the main pedestrian street, Drøhses Hus dates from 1672; it’s been meticulously restored and is open to the public, exhibiting lace and arts and crafts. For 80kr, you can buy a combination ticket that includes admission to Tønder Museum. The building is also home to a lovely craft and design store (free to enter).

KristkirkenCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.toender-kristkirke.dk; Kirkepladsen 4; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

The grand Kristkirken on the northeastern side of Torvet dates back to 1592. Its opulent interior came courtesy of the town’s rich cattle and lace merchants, who invested heavily between the late 17th and 18th centuries.

Det Gamle ApotekHISTORIC BUILDING

(The Old Pharmacy; GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 51 11; www.det-gamle-apotek.dk; Østergade 1; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)

Det Gamle Apotek, beside Torvet, has an elaborate 1671 baroque doorway flanked by two lions that stand guard over the old-fashioned interior and extensive gift-shop collection inside (everything you never thought you’d need, and then some).

zFestivals & Events

Tønder FestivalMUSIC

(www.tf.dk; hAug)

Growing in reputation and scale each year, the four-day Tønder Festival takes place in the last week of August and draws some 20,000 attendees from all corners of the globe. It’s regarded as one of the best folk music festivals in Europe, with top-quality international folk and roots music.

4Sleeping

B&Bs in the area can be found online at www.toenderbb.dk. For something special, head to the old kro (inn) in Møgeltønder.

Motel ApartmentsHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %23 21 37 60; www.motel-apartments.dk; Vestergade 87; s/d/apt 520/625/1300kr; W)

A solid, well-priced and well-placed option, this hotel is behind a plain facade that does it no favours. On offer are comfy rooms with kitchenette (some with garden terrace). There are also apartments for those after more space. Breakfast is 70kr.

Danhostel TønderHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 92 80 00; www.tsfc.dk; Sønderport 4; dm 220kr, s & d with bathroom 500kr; iW)

Cut from the same cloth as other southern Jutland Danhostels, this is a plain, low-slung brick building with plentiful rooms (all with bathroom), friendly staff, appealing communal areas and fresh, clean facilities. It’s a few minutes’ walk southeast of the town centre. The next-door camping ground shares the reception; guests have access to the affiliated sports centre and swimming pool.

5Eating & Drinking

Torvet is home to a market selling fruit, vegetables and cheese on Tuesday and Friday mornings.

Eating spots are around Torvet and the pedestrianised Storegade. Take a detour up Lillegade to reach some sweet options on a cobbled square.

Frigrunden has a cocktail bar open Friday and Saturday nights, and there are a few watering holes along Storegade.

VictoriaINTERNATIONAL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 00 89; www.victoriatoender.dk; Storegade 9; mains 79-259kr; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

At the turn of the 19th century Tønder had one bar for every 49 inhabitants. Only the Victoria kicks on as a jack-of-all-trades pub/cafe/restaurant. It’s a winner, with an all-ages crowd, old-world timber-rich decor and a good range of beers. The menu is long, varied (burgers, burritos, pasta, sandwiches) and well priced (most items under 120kr). Kitchen closes around 9pm.

Café EngelCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 70 80; www.cafe-engel.dk; Frigrunden 3; sandwiches around 80kr; h11am-5pm Tue-Sat)

At the end of Uldgade, this cafe has a cosy interior, pretty outdoor seating, good coffee and a small but tempting offer of sandwiches and cakes. Hours are somewhat flexible – if the small flagpole is out, the cafe is open.

oRestaurant RosDANISH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %27 19 31 93; www.restaurantros.dk; Spikergade 21; 3-/5-course menu 298/398kr; h5.30-11pm Wed-Sat, plus noon-3pm Sat)

Earning a deserved reputation as the town's gourmet hot spot, Ros is owned by two young chefs busy opening a handful of new venues in town (including a neighbouring cocktail bar open weekends, and a casual burger joint). Ros showcases the excellent regional produce in an intimate and elegant setting; the prices are top value. Bookings advised.

Marcel's BrasserieINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 72 20 22; www.marcelsbrasserie.dk; Storegade 12; meals 89-229kr; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)

Newly opened, this main-street bistro charms with chandeliers and a streamlined aesthetic. The menu courses from light (omelette, bouillabaisse, chicken sandwich) to more substantial (steak or spare ribs). Also: cocktails, good coffee and a super Sunday brunch spread.

KlostercaféenCAFE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 72 41 04; www.klostercafeen-toender.dk; Torvet 11; mains 70-150kr; h10am-5pm)

Options around Torvet include photogenic Klostercaféen, inside Tønder’s oldest house (from 1520 and boasting beautiful old tiles). The menu is a highly traditional one, featuring sandwiches, salads and meals such as fish fillets and schnitzel.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 51 30; www.visittonder.dk; Storegade 2-4; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Helpful office with information on the town and Møgeltønder, plus Rømø.

8Getting There & Away

Tønder is on Rte 11, 4km north of the border with Germany and 78km south of Esbjerg.

The train station is on the western side of town, about 1km from Torvet via Vestergade. Trains run regularly to/from Ribe (78kr, 50 minutes) and Esbjerg (112kr, 80 minutes).

Bus 266 runs regularly to Møgeltønder (22kr, 15 minutes).

Møgeltønder

Pop 850

This little village is impossibly cute – if you could, you’d wrap it up and take it home for your grandmother. A royal castle, one of the most beautiful main streets in Denmark, and a church rich in frescoes are some of the gems to be found here.

1Sights

oMøgeltønder KirkeCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mogeltonderkirke.dk; Sønderbyvej 2; h8am-4pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct-Apr)

At the western end of Slotsgade is Møgeltønder Kirke, its lavish interior a feast for the senses. The Romanesque nave dates back to 1180 and the baptismal font is from 1200. The church has had many additions, however, as the Gothic choir vaults were built during the 13th century, the tower dates from about 1500 and the chapel on the northern side was added in 1763. The interior is rich in frescoes, gallery paintings and ceiling drawings.

You’ll also find the oldest functioning church organ in Denmark, dating from 1679. The elaborately detailed gilt altar dates from the 16th century. Note the ‘countess’ bower’, a balcony with private seating for the Schack family, who owned the church from 1661 until 1970.

Schackenborg SlotPALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 30 69 00; www.schackenborg.dk; Schackenborgvej; guided palace/garden tour 100/50kr; htours Jul & Aug)

On the village's eastern edge is Schackenborg, a small castle from the late 17th century that was home to Queen Margrethe’s youngest son, Prince Joachim, from 1995 to 2014 (when he moved to Copenhagen with his family).

There are public events (concerts etc) held at the palace and its lovely grounds; there are also popular guided tours once or twice weekly in summer (in Danish and German; enquire about English tours). Timetables and ticket-purchasing options are outlined on the website.

TTours

Sort SafariTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 72 64 00; www.sortsafari.dk; Slotsgade 19; Sort Sol tour adult/child from 145/95kr)

This expert local company can help you explore the Wadden Sea area, with tours arranged for bird-watching, including the Sort Sol phenomenon, plus oyster collecting and seal-spotting by boat.

4Sleeping & Eating

Møgeltønder CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 73 84 60; www.mogeltondercamping.dk; Sønderstrengvej 2; per adult/child/site 72/42/45kr; Ws)

Spacious, family-friendly camping ground on the western edge of town. Cabins and on-site caravans available.

oSchackenborg SlotskroHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 73 83 83; www.slotskro.dk; Slotsgade 42; s/d incl breakfast from 1199/1449kr; W)

This classy inn dates from the 1680s and has high-pedigree history and the palace as its neighbour. There are 25 elegant, well-equipped rooms, at the inn and in nearby houses.

The slotskro has a fine reputation for traditional Danish cooking and makes a lovely spot for lunch (109kr to 279kr) or the full-blown evening treatment (three-/four-course menu 398/458kr).

oMormors Lille CaféCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 72 14 18; Slotsgade 9; cakes 40-60kr; hnoon-6pm May-Sep, Fri-Sun Oct-Apr)

‘Grandma’s little cafe’ is perfectly in keeping with the village’s character, cute as a button under its low, thatched roof, surrounded by outdoor tables and flowerbeds. Old-school lagkage (layer cake) or kiksekage (biscuit cake, with chocolate) are the order of the day. Hygge factor: sky-high.

8Getting There & Away

Møgeltønder is 5km west of Tønder via Rte 419. Bus 266 connects the towns (22kr, 15 minutes).

Rømø

Pop 650

Summer sees the large island of Rømø fill with tourists (predominantly from Germany). This is hardly surprising given the entire west coast is one long, sandy beach that’s prime happy-holiday turf, perfect for sun-bathing and sunset-watching or something more active.

Rømø is connected to the mainland by a 10km causeway (with cycle lane). During the colder months it’s a windswept sleeper with get-away-from-it-all charm that couldn’t be more removed from its busy summer incarnation.

8Orientation

As you cross the causeway to Rømø from the mainland, you continue straight to reach Lakolk, a large camping-ground-turned-village on the central west coast. It’s also where you’ll find the most popular beach – Lakolk Strand.

Heading left (south) immediately after reaching Rømø takes you to Kongsmark, Havneby and the activity-rich Sønderstrand beach.

If you head right (north) as you reach the island, you’ll arrive at the historic centre, Toftum and Juvre. The far northern end of the island is a military zone (access prohibited).

1Sights

Naturcenter TønnisgaardVISITOR CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 52 57; www.tonnisgaard.dk; Havnebyvej 30, Tvismark; exhibits adult/child 22/11kr; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Mar–Oct, Mon-Wed Nov–mid-Mar; c)

This Rømø-based information and activity centre for the Wadden Sea National Park has exhibitions, plus family-friendly tour offerings depending on the season (eg bird-watching, and shrimp, oyster or herb collecting). Tours are primarily in Danish and German, but English can be arranged with notice.

KommandørgårdenHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 52 76; www.natmus.dk; Juvrevej 60, Toftum; adult/child 50kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 3pm Oct)

The handsome thatched Kommandørgården, 1.5km north of the causeway, is the preserved home of one of Rømø’s 18th-century whaling captains. It stands as testimony to the prosperity that such men brought to the island through their whaling expeditions. It has Dutch tiles lining many walls and woodwork painted in rococo style (there is minimal labelling in English, however). In the barn is the skeleton of a 13m-long sperm whale that was stranded on Rømø in 1996.

2Activities

oSønderstrandBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

At the southwest corner of the island is Sønderstrand, a remarkable sight – full of cars, colour and land-based activities making great use of the air that blows in fresh from the North Sea. There’s a small area for parking your car where the sealed road reaches the sand, or you can continue driving on the beach itself.

As the sealed road reaches Sønderstrand, to your left is an area dedicated to strandsejlads, aka land-yachts or blokarts (a three-wheeled go-kart that utilises a sail to capture the wind). To the right, it’s all about kitebuggykørsel – buggies with attached parachute-like kites. Great speeds are reached, and it’s quite a spectacle. If you want a crack at either, there are companies that can help with lessons and/or gear rental (usually open from about late April to early October, if weather and conditions are agreeable).

Rømø AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %20 21 03 06; www.romo-adventures.dk; Sønderstrand; 1hr blokart lesson 375kr)

For these guys, it's all about harnessing the power of the wind. They offer instruction in blokarting, kitesurfing, kite buggies and more (plus rental of equipment). Based at Sønderstrand beach when the weather is kind.

Kommandørgårdens IslændercenterHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 51 22; http://islander.kommandoergaarden.dk; Borrebjergvej 15; c)

Affiliated with Hotel Kommandørgården, this centre has a stable full of Icelandic horses and a range of rides to appeal to kids, beginners and more-experienced horse-folk, through forest and along the beach. A three-hour sunset tour costs 385kr; a full-day tour to the north of Rømø 895kr; and a day tour to Mandø (4½ hours of riding) is 1145kr.

Enjoy Resorts RømøSPA, ACTIVITY CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 56 55; www.enjoyresorts.dk; Vestergade 31, Havneby; c)

This resort en route to Sønderstrand is home to a relaxation-inducing wellness spa (250kr for nonguests); indoor swimming pool and fitness centre (adult/child 75/35kr); bowling alley (one hour 120kr); and a challenging links golf course (18 holes 350kr). Club and buggy hire are available.

4Sleeping

Scattered around the island are some 1600 summer houses and apartments, mostly rented by the week in high season, or with three-night minimum at other times. The tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 51 30; www.romo.dk; Nørre Frankel 1, Havneby; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun Sep-Jun) has a catalogue and handles bookings.

oDanhostel RømøHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 51 88; www.danhostel.dk/romo; Lyngvejen 7, Østerby; dm 260kr, d without/with bathroom 420/520kr; hApr-Sep; W)

A picturesque red, thatched-roof complex (an old sea-captain's house) that’s well hidden off the main road and set among pines, but walking distance to a supermarket and bakery. The rooms (a few with bathroom) are basic but spick and span, and the flower-filled outdoor areas beckon.

First Camp Lakolk StrandCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 52 28; http://en.firstcamp.se/lakolk-strand; Vesterhavsvej, Lakolk; site per adult/child 105/60kr; hApr-Oct; W)

In high summer, the huge beachside camping ground and shopping centre at Lakolk is holiday heaven or hell, depending on your outlook. It’s bursting at the seams with families praying for good weather and is wall-to-wall with campervans and all the requisite facilities, including cabins for rent (from 755kr).

Hotel KommandørgårdenHOTEL, CAMPGROUND€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 51 22; www.kommandoergaarden.dk; Havnebyvej, Østerby; campsite per adult/child/site 82/45/75kr, hotel s/d from 995/1195kr; iWs)

This large complex has everything from camping and cabins to hotel rooms and apartments, and a restaurant and bar – but it's looking a little dated in parts. There are activities laid on thick, including a wellness centre, bike hire, kayaking, horse riding, kids' play centre, and indoor and outdoor swimming pools.

oEnjoy Resorts RømøRESORT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 56 55; www.enjoyresorts.dk; Vestergade 31, Havneby; 2 nights 4 people from 2500kr; Ws)

A luxury-leaning, activity-rich playground for families enjoying the golf course, wellness centre, restaurant and large complex of two-bedroom, fully equipped houses (sleeping up to eight). There's a two-night minimum, plus plenty of weekly deals and golf/wellness packages.

5Eating

Havneby is the island’s culinary hot spot, with a large supermarket and good array of mostly family-oriented eateries. At Lakolk there’s a small supermarket and some casual refuelling spots including a bistro, summer nightclub, pizzeria, ice creamery and cafes.

On menus, keep an eye out for Rømø produce, particularly marsklam (marsh-grazing lamb) and rejer (shrimps).

oHattesgaardCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 75 52 11; www.hattesgaard.dk; Hattesvej 17, Tvismark; cake 45-50kr; h11am-6pm)

Well worth the detour (turn off the main road at Naturcenter Tønnisgaard) is this old sea captain's house, converted into a pretty-as-a-picture antique and homewares store. The cafe side of the business serves up delectable homemade cakes, and the grounds are dotted with tables.

Otto & Ani’s FiskSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %74 75 53 06; Havnespladsen, Havneby; meals 60-195kr; h11am-5pm; c)

This no-frills cafeteria is right on the harbourside at Havneby, so the fish are as fresh as they come. Pull up a pew outside and feast on fish and chips or a bread roll filled with Rømø shrimp. You can also buy fresh uncooked fish and seafood, and smoked fishy delicacies. Longer hours of an evening in peak summer.

8Information

Tourist Office In central Havneby; can arrange cottage rental through the booking agency Feriepartner Rømø (www.feriepartner.com/roemoe).

8Getting There & Away

Rømø is on Rte 175, 14km west of Skærbæk. Bus 285 runs from Skærbæk to Havneby (32kr, 40 minutes) a handful of times daily. Hourly trains link Skærbæk with Ribe, Tønder and Esbjerg.

The Sylt Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 75 53 03; www.syltferry.com) operates between Havneby and the nearby German island of Sylt several times a day (one-way car ticket including passengers 363kr, adult return 88kr); journey time is 40 minutes.

8Getting Around

Roads allow cars to access the beaches at Lakolk and Sønderstrand, and you can drive up and down the west coast along the sand.

The Havneby–Skærbæk bus (route 285) isn't especially useful for local travel; your best option is to rent a bike from Rømø Cykler ( GOOGLE MAP ; %88 93 50 40; www.romocykler.dk; Nørre Frankel 1B, Havneby; bike hire per day/week from 60/300kr; h10am-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug), as Rømø is as flat as a pancake and perfect for cycling.

Wadden Sea National Park

Mudflats and salt marshes don't sound as sexy as alpine peaks, but Denmark's west-coast national park demonstrates how appealing they can be, with tractor-bus rides to salty offshore islands, fat harbour seals lolling on sandbanks, and the chance to put on waders and pluck and shuck oysters. Plus birds – so many birds!

In the Wadden Sea National Park (in Danish, Nationalpark Vadehavet), the seabed meets the horizon twice daily, when low tide exposes tidal flats of sand and mud, and birds swoop to hoover up the buffet on offer (tasty morsels like worms, cockles, crabs, shrimp and snails). Annually, some 12 million feathered friends use this region as a feeding place, or to rest, on their migrations.

The history of humans in the region is also on show, with dikes and polders as evidence of the struggle to master the watery landscapes.

1Sights

oVadehavsCentretVISITOR CENTRE

(Wadden Sea Centre; GOOGLE MAP ; %75 44 61 61; www.vadehavscentret.dk; Okholmvej 5, Vester Vedsted; adult/child 100/50kr; h10am-5pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr; c)

About 10km southwest of Ribe, VadehavsCentret is a top-notch information and activity centre and the best source of information about the park. Inside a beautiful new extension (built from reed thatch), there are exhibitions on the tides, flora and fauna of the national park. The information on migratory birds is superb.

The centre runs a calendar of seasonal tours that range from bird-watching and seal-spotting to mudflat walks and food foraging; some are designed for kids and families.

A five-hour oyster safari is 280kr (runs October to April); Sort Sol viewing is 75kr. Details and departure points are outlined on the website.

From the centre, there are tractor-buses running across the tidal flats at low tide to the small outlying island of Mandø.

Buses to the centre are limited (bus 411 from Ribe runs on school days only).

MandøISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitmandoe.dk)

At low tide, tractors haul buses 11km from VadehavsCentret, driving over the mudflats to deliver visitors to the small outlying island of Mandø. This peaceful place (8 sq km; population approximately 35) is a microcosm of the national park. Hire a bike to get the full experience, and set off on the 10km trail around the flat island to discover oyster banks, dikes, birdlife, sunbaking seals and cosy inns.

There are overnighting opportunities, including camping and B&Bs.

Two companies run tractor-buses (return fare adult/child 60/40kr) daily from about Easter until October. For timetables and package deals on tours and accommodation, see www.mandoebussen.dk and www.mandoekro.dk/mandoe-traktorbusser.

DON'T MISS

SORT SOL

One of the most popular ways to get close to Wadden Sea National Park's natural wonders is to experience the ‘Sort Sol’ (Black Sun) in spring (approximate dates March to April) and autumn (mid-September to late October). This describes the phenomenon of large numbers of migrating starlings (up to a million) gathering in the marshes outside Ribe and Tønder. ‘Sort Sol’ takes place in the hours just after sunset, when the birds gather in large flocks and form huge formations in the sky before they decide on a location to roost for the night. The movements of the formations have been likened to a balletic dance and the birds are so numerous they seem to obliterate the sunset.

8Information

VadehavsCentret is the perfect place to get a park overview, and there is also information online at www.nationalparkvadehavet.dk.

8Getting There & Away

You can access the park from a base anywhere along Jutland's southwest coast – from towns such as Esbjerg, Ribe and Tønder, or from the islands Fanø and Rømø.

There are buses and trains linking major towns and smaller settlements, and tour operators visiting areas of the park. Your own wheels are useful – in summer, a bike is a good option.

Ribe

Pop 8200

The crooked cobblestone streets of Ribe (ree-buh) date from the late 9th century, making it Denmark’s oldest town. It’s easily one of the country’s loveliest spots at which to stop and soak up some history.

It’s a delightfully compact chocolate-box confection of crooked half-timbered 16th-century houses, a sweetly meandering river and lush water meadows, all overseen by the nation’s oldest cathedral. Such is the sense of living history that the entire ‘old town’ has been designated a preservation zone, with more than 100 buildings registered by the National Trust. Don’t miss it.

Ribe

1Top Sights

1Sights

5Johanne DanA2

7Museet Ribes VikingerD3

8Sankt Catharinæ KirkeB3

9StormflodssøjlenA1

10TaarnborgA4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Ghost WalksD3

11Night-Watchman TourA3

12Town WalksA3

4Sleeping

13Danhostel RibeB1

14Den Gamle ArrestA3

15Hotel DagmarA3

16Ribo B&BD2

Weis StueA3

5Eating

17EmpanadasB2

Hotel DagmarA3

18IsvaflenB2

19KolvigB2

20KvicklyD1

21Quedens GaardB2

22SælhundenA2

Weis Stue

6Drinking & Nightlife

23PostgaardenC2

24Ribe BryghusA3

History

Founded around AD 700, Ribe evolved into a key post of the hailed Viking era. It began when the Apostle of the North, Ansgar, was given a parcel of land by the Danish king around 860 and permission to erect a church. It’s not known when the church was built, but the earliest record of the existence of a bishop in Ribe is 948 – and bishops have cathedrals. During the Viking era, Ribe, linked to the sea by its river, flourished as a centre of trade between the Frankish empire and the Scandinavian states to the north.

In the 12th century the Valdemar dynasty fortified the town, building a castle and establishing Ribe as one of the king’s Jutland residences.

The end of the medieval period saw Ribe enter its most torrid time. Two factors combined to send the town into 250 years of decline. A fire ripped through in 1580, and the relocation of the royal family to Copenhagen saw royal money leave the town. In turn the population diminished, and the bustling trade port turned into a struggling town with little regional importance or influence.

This economic downturn was something of a blessing – there was no finance available for building bigger and better houses, so the old town remained virtually untouched. In 1899 a tourist and conservation organisation (showing remarkable foresight) was established, and in 1963 the town council issued a preservation order covering the core of the old town. Their good sense has been well rewarded, with tourists flocking to soak up Ribe’s old-world charm.

1Sights

oRibe DomkirkeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %24 66 07 37; www.ribe-domkirke.dk; Torvet; tower adult/child 20/10kr; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun May-Sep, shorter hours Oct-Apr)

Dominating Ribe’s skyline is the impressive Ribe Cathedral, which dates back to at least 948 (the earliest record of the existence of a bishop in Ribe) – making it the oldest in Denmark. The cathedral was largely rebuilt in 1150 when Ribe was at the heart of royal and government money, which in turn paved the way for some fine architectural structures.

The new cathedral was constructed primarily from tufa, a soft porous rock quarried near Cologne and shipped north along the Rhine. It took a century for the work to reach completion. Later additions included several Gothic features, but the core of the cathedral is decidedly Romanesque, a fine example of medieval Rhineland influences in architecture.

The interior decor is a hotchpotch of later influences. There’s an organ with a facade designed by renowned 17th-century sculptor Jens Olufsen, a baptismal font from 1375, and an ornate pulpit created in 1597 (a mark on the pillar behind the pulpit shows where the flood of 1634 reached). You can find remains of paintings from the 16th century on the last two pillars on the northern side of the cathedral, while in the apse are modern-day frescoes, stained-glass windows and seven mosaics created in the 1980s by artist Carl-Henning Pedersen. The funky mosaics enliven the church and add a fascinating contrast to the more sombre features.

For a fine view over the countryside, climb the 248 steps (52m) up the cathedral tower, which dates from 1333. A survey of the surrounding marshland makes it easy to understand why the tower once doubled as a lookout station for floods. Museum exhibits in the tower cover the cathedral's long history.

For added atmosphere, look out for summer classical-music concerts held in the cathedral.

oRibe VikingeCenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 16 11; www.ribevikingecenter.dk; Lustrupvej 4; adult/child 120/60kr; h11am-5pm late Jun-late Aug, 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri early May-late Jun & late Aug–mid-Oct; c)

Embrace your inner Viking (ignore any pillaging tendencies, OK?) at this fun, hands-on, open-air museum. It re-creates a slice of life in Viking-era Ribe using various reconstructions, including a 34m longhouse. The staff, dressed in period clothing, bake bread over open fires, demonstrate archery and Viking-era crafts such as pottery and leatherwork, and offer falconry shows and ‘warrior training’ (for kids, using a sword and shield). You’ll undoubtedly learn more about Viking life than you could from a textbook.

The centre is 3km south of town; bus 417 runs out here, but cycling is a better option.

oRibe KunstmuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 03 62; www.ribekunstmuseum.dk; Sankt Nicolaj Gade 10; adult/child 75kr/free; h11am-5pm Jul & Aug, to 4pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun)

An undeniable benefit of being the oldest town in the land is the opportunity to amass an impressive art collection. Ribe’s beautifully restored art museum has been able to acquire some of Denmark’s best works, including those by 19th-century ‘Golden Age’ painters.

The gallery’s riverside garden presents a glorious backdrop to collection pieces by big-name Danish artists. It’s worth exploring the delightfully verdant area behind the art gallery (open to all), where paths pass over the river and lead either to Sankt Catharinæ Kirke or Nederdammen.

Historic RibeAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For a leisurely stroll that takes in some of Ribe’s handsome half-timbered homes and idyllic cobbled lanes, head along any of the streets radiating out from Torvet (note that the night-watchman walks cover much of this ground).

To help you appreciate the surrounds, drop by the tourist office and pick up a copy of the free Town Walk in Old Ribe brochure; it’s available in Danish, English, German, Dutch, Italian, Spanish and French.

On Puggårdsgade is a 16th-century manor house, the charmingly skew-whiff Taarnborg ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Puggårdsgade 3), where no corner is 90°. Next door at No 5 is a half-timbered house from 1550.

From Grønnegade, narrow alleys lead down and across pretty Fiskergade to Skibbroen and the picturesque riverfront.

Sankt Catharinæ KirkeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sct-catharinae.dk; Sankt Catharinæ Plads; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)

Founded by Spanish Blackfriars in 1228, St Catharine’s Church was originally built on reclaimed marshland, but it eventually collapsed. The present structure dates from the 15th century. Of the 13 churches built during the pre-Reformation period in Ribe, Sankt Catharinæ Kirke and Ribe Domkirke are the only survivors.

In 1536 the Reformation forced the friars to abandon Sankt Catharinæ Kirke and, in the years that followed, the compound served as an asylum for the mentally ill and a wartime field hospital, to name a couple of its incarnations. These days the abbey provides housing for the elderly.

In the 1920s Sankt Catharinæ Kirke was restored at tremendous cost (due to its still-faulty foundations) and was reconsecrated in 1934. The interior boasts a delicately carved pulpit dating to 1591 and an ornate altarpiece created in 1650.

For a 5kr fee you can enter the tranquil cloister garden and enjoy a few minutes of contemplative silence.

Den Gamle RådhusHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 16 88 10; www.detgamleraadhusiribe.dk; Von Støckens Plads; adult/child 20kr/free; h1-3.30pm Mon-Fri mid-May–mid-Sep, plus Sat & Sun Jun-Aug)

This is the oldest town hall (1496) in Denmark and was used as a courthouse until 2006 – these days it’s a popular spot for civil weddings. As well as ceremonial artefacts, there’s an exhibit on local law and order (including a collection of medieval weapons and the executioner’s axe).

Museet Ribes VikingerMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 16 39 60; www.ribesvikinger.dk; Odins Plads 1; adult/child 75kr/free; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 4pm Sep-Jun, closed Mon Nov-Mar; c)

To better come to grips with Ribe’s Viking and medieval history, visit the informative displays of the Museum of Ribe’s Vikings. Two rooms provide snapshots of the town in 800 and during medieval times in 1500. These portrayals are complemented by rare archaeological finds and good explanations, which add real substance to the tales.

Johanne DanLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; moored on Skibbroen)

Johanne Dan is an old sailing ship designed with a flat bottom, which allowed it to navigate through the shallow waters of the Ribe Å; an onboard visit is usually only possible in conjunction with a guided tour (enquire at the tourist office). It makes a nice backdrop to a waterside lunch at Sælhunden restaurant.

KannikegårdenNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Torvet 15)

This award-winning building on the main square houses the church office. Through windows you can see the results of excavations in the area; these found evidence of Christianity arriving in Ribe a century earlier than historians had previously believed.

StormflodssøjlenMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Skibbroen)

Along the riverfront is Stormflodssøjlen, a wooden flood column commemorating the numerous floods that have swept over Ribe. The ring at the top indicates the water’s depth during the record flood of 1634 (6m above normal!), which claimed hundreds of lives. Although these days a system of dikes affords low-lying Ribe somewhat more protection, residents are still subject to periodic flood evacuations.

TTours

Ghost WalksWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 15 00; www.ribesvikinger.dk; adult/child 50kr/free; h9pm Wed Jul & Aug; c)

The weekly summertime ghost walks operated by (and departing from) Museet Ribes Vikinger show the town in a whole new light – listen out for tales of Maren Spliid, who was burned at the stake in 1641, the last victim of Denmark’s witch-hunt persecutions. Tours are in Danish and English.

Town WalksWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 85kr/free; h11.30am Mon-Fri Jul & Aug, Mon Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct)

The tourist office stages guided 90-minute town walks in the high season. At the time of research these were being conducted in Danish and German only. Tours in other languages can be arranged by request (see www.visitribe.dk).

DON'T MISS

NIGHT-WATCHMAN TOUR

One of the best free activities in Denmark is Ribe's 45-minute night-watchman tour, which departs nightly in the warmer months. Interesting factual titbits, singing and colourful stories of memorable Ribe citizens (in Danish and English) are part of the act. Throw in narrow streets, pretty-as-a-picture houses and a late sundown and it's a great way to end a history-soaked day.

Nowadays it's a stroll through the town's historic streets, designed to entertain and educate visitors to Ribe, but the night-watchman's walk was originally born of necessity. As early as the 14th century these watchmen made their nightly rounds in Ribe, making sure the streets were safe for locals to walk. They were also charged with being on the lookout for fires or floods threatening the town. The job was abolished in Ribe in 1902, but reinstated in 1932 as a tourist attraction.

Bookings aren't required – just turn up.

4Sleeping

oDanhostel RibeHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 06 20; www.danhostel-ribe.dk; Sankt Pedersgade 16; dm 240kr, s/d/q from 455/500/760kr; piW)S

Knowledgeable staff, sparkling rooms (all with bathroom) and impressive facilities make this a top option for both backpackers and families. It rents bikes and is a stone’s throw from Ribe’s historic centre; equally impressive is its commitment to the environment, from the Good Origin coffee in its vending machines to its promotion of sustainable travel in the Wadden Sea region.

Breakfast costs 75kr; linen hire is 70kr.

Ribo B&BGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ribobandb.dk; Giørtz Plads 3; s/d 475/550kr; W)

One of a new breed of Danish 'self-service' sleeping options, where the guesthouse is unstaffed, you book online and a security code is given so you can access your room. It's impersonal, but the prices are often excellent – as they are at Ribo, a central, modern, three-room guesthouse, with spick-and-span facilities plus access to a kitchen. Breakfast is 75kr.

Ribe CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 07 77; www.ribecamping.dk; Farupvej 2; per adult/child/site 84/60/90kr; iWs)

Just 2km north of the train station lies this busy, well-equipped camping ground bursting with good cheer and excellent amenities; a summertime outdoor heated swimming pool and playgrounds are at your disposal. There are also some pretty swanky cabins for hire (some with spa) from 600kr.

Weis StueGUESTHOUSE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 07 00; www.weisstue.dk; Torvet 2; s/d without bathroom 395/495kr; W)

An ancient wooden-beamed house from 1600, Weis Stue has eight small, crooked rooms (with shared bathrooms) above its restaurant. Rooms have lashings of character: creaking boards, sloping walls and low overhead beams.

Den Gamle ArrestGUESTHOUSE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 37 00; www.dengamlearrest.dk; Torvet 11; d incl breakfast 740-1090kr)

You need to be creative when turning jail cells into guest rooms, and Annitha, the lovely owner of this place, can take a bow. This superbly positioned building served as a jail until 1989; now it holds cells converted into bright, simple rooms that maximise space (a mezzanine level holds table and chairs above a petite roll-away bed).

Most former cells have a washbasin but share bathroom facilities; there are also wardens' rooms with full bathroom. Pics are on the website.

Ribe ByferieAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 88 79 88; www.ribe-byferie.dk; Damvej 34; apt for 4 people 915-1400kr; piW)

This is a well-run ‘village’ of modern apartments in a quiet part of town, a 10-minute walk south of Torvet. Roomy self-catering apartments sleep from two to seven; families are catered for with a wellness centre, games room, bike and canoe hire, kids’ club, playground and barbecue area. Prices fluctuate with the season; you pay extra for linen and breakfast.

Hotel DagmarHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 00 33; www.hoteldagmar.dk; Torvet; s/d incl breakfast from 1125/1325kr; iW)

Classy, central Hotel Dagmar is Denmark’s oldest hotel (1581) and exudes all the charm you’d expect. There’s a golden hue to the hallways and rooms, with old-world decor alongside tiling, artworks and antiques. See the website for packages involving meals and accommodation.

5Eating

EmpanadasINTERNATIONAL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nederdammen 31; empanadas 25kr; h11.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

This is a simple, heart-warming place, where Iran-born Ali creates delicious South American–style empanadas filled with spinach, beef or chicken. He also serves good-value meals like meatballs or pasta for 55kr to 60kr, plus smoothies and milkshakes.

KvicklySUPERMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Seminarievej 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Well placed for self-caterers staying at the hostel; the post office is inside.

IsvaflenICE CREAM€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 06 88; Overdammen 11; 2/3 scoops 26/32kr; h10am-10pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun; c)

Pizza places and ice-cream sellers aren’t hard to find along the main drag. On a warm day, Isvaflen is swamped with holidaymakers devouring the great ice-cream flavours.

oKolvigDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 04 88; www.kolvig.dk; Mellemdammen 13; lunch 88-189kr, dinner mains 230-250kr; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat)

Kolvig’s alfresco terrace overlooks the river, offering prime Ribe-watching. The menu is the most ambitious in town, showcasing local produce; most interesting is the delicious tapas plate of Wadden Sea flavours, including shrimp, ham, smoked lamb and local cheese. It makes for a good drinking spot, too; the kitchen closes at 9.30pm.

oSælhundenDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 09 46; www.saelhunden.dk; Skibbroen 13; lunch 69-169kr, dinner mains 129-289kr; h11am-10pm)

This handsome old black-and-white inn is by the riverfront, with outdoor seating by the Johanne Dan boat. Sælhund means seal, so it’s no surprise there's quality seafood in traditional Danish guises, including lunchtime smørrebrød (Danish open sandwiches). Try the delicious house speciality stjerneskud (one fried and one steamed fillet of fish served on bread with prawns and dressing).

Above the restaurant are pretty rooms (single/double including breakfast 650/750kr).

Weis StueDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 07 00; www.weisstue.dk; Torvet 2; lunch 94-134kr, dinner mains 169-265kr; h11.30am-10pm)

Don’t come here looking for modern, could-be-anywhere cuisine. As befits the setting (one of Denmark’s oldest inns, wonky and charming), the menu is a traditionalist’s dream. The large meat-and-potatoes portions are full of northern European flavour (pepper pork medallions, Wiener schnitzel), best washed down with locally brewed beer. There’s bags of atmosphere, but little joy for vegetarians.

Quedens GaardCAFE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 10 50; www.quedensgaard.dk; Overdammen 10; mains 59-169kr; h10am-6pm)

This bright and cheerful, history-packed place makes a perfect main-street pit stop for a morning coffee or lunchtime panini or burger. It dates from 1583; the best feature is the sweet, cobbled courtyard.

Hotel DagmarINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 00 33; www.hoteldagmar.dk; Torvet 1; hDagmar noon-10pm, Vægterkælderen 5-10pm)

The town's main hotel, in plum position by the cathedral, has two main restaurants: the more refined Restaurant Dagmar (three courses for 385kr), plus Vægterkælderen, the 'night-watchman’s cellar', which makes for a hyggelig (cosy) winter spot. In summer, the best option is the all-day outdoor area on Torvet, where you can choose from a casual menu of salads and burgers.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Ribe BryghusBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %40 43 17 16; www.ribebryghus.dk; Skolegade 4B; h10am-2pm Sat)

Look out for this label’s locally brewed beers at restaurants and bars around town, or pop into the brewery (in the courtyard) during its limited opening hours. Note it's also 'open' whenever the brewers are inside working their hoppy magic. Groups of eight or more can arrange a tour (per person 100kr).

PostgaardenCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 41 01 12; www.postgaarden-ribe.dk; Nederdammen 36; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Postgaarden has a range of Danish and international microbrews for sale in its gourmet food and wine store, and a changing selection of boutique (and sometimes obscure) brews on tap to accompany its cafe-style menu, best enjoyed in the photogenic 1668 courtyard.

Above the store are good-value B&B rooms (doubles without/with bathroom from 600/850kr).

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 42 15 00; www.visitribe.dk; Torvet 3; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Jul & Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun plus 10am-1pm Sat Sep-Dec & Apr-Jun; W) Has an abundance of information on the town and surrounding areas. There is an unstaffed brochure area open 9am to 10pm every day.

8Getting There & Away

Trains from Ribe run hourly on weekdays and less frequently at weekends to:

AEsbjerg (60kr, 35 minutes)

ASkærbæk For Rømø (31kr, 20 minutes)

ATønder (78kr, 50 minutes).

8Getting Around

Ribe is a tightly clustered town, so it’s easy to explore. Everything, including the hostel and the train station, is within a 10-minute walk of Torvet, the central square that’s dominated by the huge cathedral.

Central parking is free but generally has a two-hour daytime limit; there is four-hour parking by the hostel, and just north of the hostel on Saltgade is 48-hour parking. North of the train station (on Rosen Allé) is another area of 48-hour parking.

Bicycles can be hired from Danhostel Ribe and cost 80/140kr for one/two days.

Esbjerg

Pop 72,300

Esbjerg (roughly pronounced ess-be-air) has a touch of the ‘wild frontier’ about it – a new city (by Danish standards) that's grown big and affluent from oil, fishing and trading. Its business focus lies to the west, to the oilfields of the North Sea, but its ferry link with the UK ceased in 2014.

Esbjerg fails to pull heartstrings on first impressions – its silos and smokestacks hardly compete with the crooked, story-book streets of nearby Ribe. In the harbour you may see offshore drilling rigs being repaired. Away from the industrial grit, however, Esbjerg redeems itself with some quirky attractions and its easy access to the beautiful, time-warped island of Fanø, just a 12-minute ferry ride away.

Esbjerg

1Sights

1Esbjerg KunstmuseumB3

2Esbjerg VandtårnB3

3Musikhuset EsbjergB3

4Sleeping

5Eating

8IndustrienC2

9PosthusetB2

10Sand's RestaurationA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11PortlandsB2

1Sights

oMennesket ved HavetMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sædding Strandvej)

On the waterfront opposite Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet is Esbjerg’s most interesting landmark, Mennesket ved Havet ('Man Meets the Sea'): four stark-white, 9m-high, stylised human figures, sitting rigid and staring out to sea. They were created by Danish sculptor Svend Wiig Hansen to commemorate the city’s centennial in 1995 and they make a striking backdrop to holiday snaps.

Fiskeri- og SøfartsmuseetAQUARIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 12 20 00; www.fimus.dk; Tarphagevej 2; adult 115-140kr, child free; hfrom 10am daily; c)

For an up-close look at North Sea marine life, head 4km northwest of the city centre to the saltwater aquarium at the Fisheries & Maritime Museum (take bus 3 or 6). Here you can see assorted local fish species getting along swimmingly, plus seals being fed at 11am and 2.30pm daily. The newest exhibitions concentrate on life on an offshore rig in the North Sea. Closing time varies (from 4pm to 6pm).

On Tuesdays and Thursdays in July and August, the museum arranges two-hour boat trips (95kr) on a fishing cutter, with opportunities for fishing and wildlife-spotting (birds and seals).

Musikhuset EsbjergARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 10 90 00; www.mhe.dk; Havnegade 18)

Famed Danish architect Jørn Utzon (he of the Sydney Opera House) designed Esbjerg’s Music House together with his son, Jan. The performing arts centre opened in 1997 and is the city’s main venue for cultural events including concerts, opera and ballet.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

TIRPITZ BUNKER

Tirpitz is a large, menacing-looking bunker built in the coastal dunes during WWII as part of Hitler's Atlantic Wall defence. Abandoned since 1944, it was reopened in 2017 as part of a clever, tunnel-like museum designed by the starchitect Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG). This showcases the effects of war on Jutland's wild west coast, while also incorporating a beautiful collection of amber – Jutland's coast is one of the best places to hunt for it.

Tirpitz is near the west-coast resort town of Blåvand, 38km northwest of Esbjerg by Rtes 463 and 431. If you're continuing north, it's another 30km to reach the standout restaurant Henne Kirkeby Kro.

4Sleeping

Danhostel EsbjergHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 12 42 58; www.esbjerg-danhostel.dk; Gammel Vardevej 80; dm 240kr, d without/with bathroom 570/720kr; iW)

An excellent choice if you don’t mind being out of the city centre. It’s in a spiffy location, neighbouring a sports stadium, swimming pool, park and cinema. The old building is lovely and the communal facilities top-notch; rooms in the new wing all have private bathrooms. It's 3km northwest of the city centre on bus 11.

CabInn EsbjergHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 18 16 00; www.cabinn.com; Skolegade14; s/d from 495/625kr; piW)

Esbjerg's best central value is found in this century-old building that’s been thoroughly renovated and sits in a prime inner-city location. It’s a hit with international and local visitors, who enjoy its reasonable rates and petite, light-filled rooms, all with bathroom, kettle and TV. You pay extra for more space (and for parking, and breakfast).

Hotel BritanniaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 13 01 11; www.britannia.dk; Torvegade 24; s/d incl breakfast 1295/1495kr; piW)

This super-central, business-oriented hotel has professional service, smart rooms, a well-regarded restaurant and an English pub, but its rack rates seem pitched at expense-account business travellers. Weekend and summer rates (late June to mid-August) are better value at 795/895kr per single/double.

5Eating

Guldægget CafeBAKERY, CAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %92 44 07 79; www.cafeguldaegget.dk; Torvet 16; sandwiches & salads 45-59kr; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat & Sun)

There are loads of nooks inside this huge bakery-cafe on the main square, plus a big outdoor terrace. Carb up with pastries and an assortment of sandwiches, or go healthier with salads and smoothies.

oIndustrienINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 13 61 66; www.indubar.dk; Skolegade 27; meals 100-179kr; hkitchen 5.30-9pm Mon-Thu, noon-9pm Fri & Sat)

This cool 'rock gastro bar' is a local darling for its live music, vinyl selection, late hours (till 3am Friday and Saturday) and excellent kitchen. Build a super-tasty dinner from the selection of gourmet sliders (mini-burgers; 50kr a pop, veg options too) and creative side dishes, then sit back and enjoy the house gin cocktails and good times.

PosthusetINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 13 60 13; www.posthuset.dk; Torvet 20; burgers 139-229kr; hrestaurant & burgers 11am-9pm)

A stylish multipurpose venue on the main square, the brand-new Posthuset has taken shape inside the distinctive old post office, and offers something for most appetites and budgets. Options range from a casual burger joint on the ground level to weekend fine dining in the 'loft'. In between are a mainstream restaurant, coffee bar and weekend nightclub, plus outdoor terrace.

Dronning LouiseINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 13 13 44; www.dr-louise.dk; Torvet 19; mains 125-295kr; hkitchen 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun, bar to midnight or later)

Jack of all trades, the Queen Louise commands a great central position on Torvet: she’s a restaurant, pub and even a nightclub (Friday and Saturday), with occasional live music too. You can dine from the broad, classic-hits menu (sandwiches, burgers, steak) on the square, inside or in the rear courtyard. Brunch is served until 4pm.

Sand's RestaurationDANISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 12 02 07; www.sands.dk; Skolegade 60; lunch 59-189kr, dinner mains 119-249kr; h11.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

One for the traditionalists. The menu at this classy, century-old restaurant is an ode to old-school Danish favourites: lunchtime smørrebrød and herring platters (accompanied by snaps), evening fish (try the bakskuld, salted and smoked flatfish) and plenty of classic bøf (beef).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Daytime venues morph into evening venues, while Torvet and Skolegade are thick with options. Industrien does great cocktails and music; Dronning Louise has a nightclub for weekends.

PortlandsCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %79 30 18 00; www.portlands.dk; Skolegade 48; h9am-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Sun)

A welcoming, all-day cafe-bar, ideal for daytime smoothies or good coffee, or evening wine, cocktails or microbrews. There's limited food (cheese or charcuterie platters, plus a few cakes), but there are plenty of couches, tables and outdoor seating. Plus: board games. It's the kind of place you could easily spend hours at.

WORTH A TRIP

BATHING BEAUTY

If Esbjerg's industrial grit has you yearning for a little trademark Danish hygge, make your way 10km northwest of town to Hjerting Badehotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 70 00; www.hjertingbadehotel.dk; Strandpromenaden 1; s/d incl breakfast from 1195/1395kr; W), a delightful, century-old 'bathing hotel' right on the beach. Accommodation is in fresh, pastel-hued rooms or stylish beach houses sleeping four. There's a wellness centre, kayaks and bikes for hire and a choice of fine dining options: book ahead for the gourmet sea-view restaurant Strandpavillonen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 70 00; www.hjertingbadehotel.dk; Hjerting Badehotel, Strandpromenaden 1; 3/5 courses 439/619kr; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; W), or choose more the casual all-day Ship Inn.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 12 55 99; www.visitesbjerg.dk; Skolegade 33; h10am-8pm Sun-Wed, to 6pm Thu-Sat) Unstaffed central office, on the corner of Torvet. Offers info screens, plus self-service racks of brochures and maps.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Esbjerg Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.esbjerg-lufthavn.dk) is 10km northeast of the city centre, with daily connections to two other North Sea oil bases: Stavanger (Norway) and Aberdeen (Scotland).

Boat

FanøFærgen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %70 23 15 15; www.faergen.com; Dockvej) runs boats to Fanø at least hourly (12 minutes).

Bus

From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jernbanegade), buses 915X (32 minutes) and far slower 8C (55 minutes) connect Esbjerg with Ribe (60kr). Thinggaard Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %98 11 66 00; www.expressbus.dk) bus 980 departs daily to Frederikshavn (340kr, 5¼ hours), calling at Viborg and Aalborg en route.

Train

Regular train connections include:

AAarhus (270kr, 2½ hours)

AKolding (101kr, 45 minutes)

ARibe (60kr, 30 minutes)

ATønder (112kr, 1½ hours)

8Getting Around

Torvet, the city square, can be found where Skolegade and Torvegade intersect. The train and bus stations are about 300m east of Torvet; the Fanø ferry terminal is 1km southwest.

Most city buses can be boarded at the train station; it’s 22kr for a local ticket (available from the driver).

City buses 11, 12 and 13 run to the harbour (for the ferry to Fanø).

Parking in the city centre is free but has a time limit (usually two or four hours) and a parking disc (P-skive) is required, to show the time you arrived.

Rent bikes from PJ Ferie ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 45 62 33; www.pjferie.dk; Hjertingvej 21; bike rental per day/week 50/250kr; hnoon-5pm).

Fanø

Pop 3200

Just 12 minutes' ferry ride from Esbjerg, the island of Fanø appeals with two traditional seafaring settlements full of idyllic thatch-roofed houses, blooming gardens and cafe-lined cobblestone streets. The exposed west coast is blessed with wide strips of sand that welcome summer beach-goers and host a world-famous and super-photogenic gathering for kite-fliers (www.kitefliersmeetingfanoe.de; hJun). In the island's centre, Klitplantage ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a 1421-hectare nature reserve attracting walkers and wildlife-watchers.

4Sleeping

Møllesti B&BGUESTHOUSE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 16 29 49; www.mollesti.dk; Møllesti 3, Nordby; s/d without bathroom from 300/450kr; hMay-Aug; W)

This well-priced B&B is hidden away in the atmospheric lanes of Nordby. It’s home to four simple, comfy guest rooms sharing two bathrooms and a kitchenette/lounge, in a restored sea-captain’s house from 1892. Breakfast costs an additional 50kr; there’s a two-night minimum stay.

oSønderho KroINN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 16 40 09; www.sonderhokro.dk; Kropladsen 11, Sønderho; s/d incl breakfast from 1300/1650kr; hMay-Oct, Fri & Sat Nov-Apr)

The loveliest place to stay on the island (and renowned around the country) is this thatched-roof slice of hyggelig heaven. It dates from 1722, and its 13 individually decorated rooms feature local antiques. The inn has an acclaimed gourmet restaurant, which showcases local and seasonal specialities in a steeped-in-time dining room.

5Eating & Drinking

Slagter ChristiansenDELI€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 16 20 67; www.fanoeslagteren.dk; Hovedgaden 17, Nordby; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, to 1pm Sat)

The Nordby butcher, Slagter Christiansen, is known throughout Denmark for his Fanø skinke (Fanø ham), a ham in the style of Italian parma. The store is a delicatessen full of local gourmet produce.

oRudbecks Ost & DeliCAFE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %24 93 85 05; www.rudbecks.dk; Hovedgaden 90, Nordby; mains 89-189kr; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

This fab family-run deli-cafe gives a great snapshot of island flavours: housemade bread, butter and ice cream, salmon smoked on Fanø, burgers made from local marsh-grazing lamb and beef. Grab picnic supplies (there's a great cheese cabinet) or linger over brunch, lunch or delicious cake.

Sønderho KroDANISH€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 16 40 09; www.sonderhokro.dk; Kropladsen 11, Sønderho; lunch 149kr, 2-/3-/5-course dinner 439/539/650kr; hnoon-8.30pm Apr-Oct, by appointment Sat & Sun rest of year)

Renowned throughout Denmark, delightful Sønderho Kro has an acclaimed gourmet restaurant, which showcases local and seasonal specialities in a steeped-in-time dining room. Bookings advised.

Fanø BryghusMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 66 01 12; www.fanoebryghus.dk; Strandvejen 5, Nordby; h11am-6pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May)

Thirsty? Stop by this excellent brewery on the outskirts of Nordby. BYO food to eat in the beer garden (there's no food served), and settle in to sample as many as 40 beers.

8Information

ATMs are found on Nordby's main street, Hovedgaden, a block west of the ferry terminal.

8Getting There & Away

If you’re doing a day trip or overnight stay from Esbjerg, you’re better off leaving your car on the mainland and hiring a bike or taking the bus once you reach the island.

FanøFærgen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %70 23 15 15; www.fanoefaergen.dk; Langelinie, Nordby) shuttles car ferries between Esbjerg and Nordby one to three times hourly from 5am to 2am. Sailing time is 12 minutes. A return ticket for a foot passenger is 45/25kr per adult/child; bikes travel free. It costs 195/415kr in the low/high season to transport a car (return trip, including passengers).

8Getting Around

Bus 431 from the ferry dock runs the length of the island 12 times daily connecting Nordby with Sønderho (32kr, 20 minutes) via Fanø Bad (22kr) and Rindby Strand (22kr).

Bicycles can be hired from a number of places, including Fri BikeShop ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 16 24 60; Mellemgaden 12, Nordby; bike rental per day 100-145kr; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun). Taxis can be reached on 75 16 62 00.