CHAPTER 6

Shakes, Cakes & Sundaes

This section is all about ice cream’s ambitious side. In these selections, we’ll put it on a pedestal, dress it up in its sundae best, and allow it to indulge in a luxurious milk bath. Each recipe is an opportunity for ice cream to accessorize and hit the town—for a special occasion, a celebration, or simply because we feel like it.

SHAKES

THE PUMPKIN PIE SHAKE

EVERYTHING BAGEL SHAKE WITH MALTED BARLEY SYRUP & CREAM CHEESE

OLIVE OIL & VANILLA LIME MILKSHAKE

ICE CREAM CAKES

MARGARITA CAKE

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH CAKE

WHIFFER NUTTER EN FUEGO CAKE

I PAVLOVA ICE CREAM CAKE

SUNDAES

ROMAN HONEYMOON: AN ICE CREAM CHEESE PLATE

TENNESSEE BBQ SUNDAE

HOW MANY TIMES MUST I SAY ICE CREAM FOR BREAKFAST? SUNDAE

SHAKES

As old school as it gets, milkshakes have long been diner staples and roadside refreshments. But there’s more to sample than strictly vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry varieties. These drinkable desserts are inspired by all manner of meals and memories and make perfect portable treats for those seeking something sweet to-go.

THE PUMPKIN PIE SHAKE

SERVES 1

When I was in high school, the idea of work was thrilling to me. To serve people, to be behind a counter somewhere, to restock shelves, or to make something that someone else would pay for—it was all so glamorous!

As soon as I legally could, I went and got myself two jobs, one in a local bakery. It was in that kitchen that I became hooked on all things culinary.

My first real revelation was pumpkin pie. I was a picky eater as a child and never tried it when my family would serve it at a holiday table (you eat pumpkins?), but when I had my first fresh-from-the-oven slice, I knew I’d found Gourd.

Over the years, pumpkin has become ubiquitous and almost passé, but I think of this as an homage to my teenage desire to multitask—it’s pumpkin pie a la mode all in one, and in a convenient travel-ready form!

1 small slice of your favorite pumpkin pie (about ⅛" thick)

1¼ cups ice cream of your choice (I recommend Sage Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, or Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream

2–4 tablespoons whole milk

1In a blender, or in a bowl using an immersion blender, thoroughly blend the pie, ice cream, and 2 tablespoons of the milk. If you prefer a super-thick shake, you are done. If it’s too thick for your taste, add a bit more milk. You can leave your pie pieces a little chunky if you prefer, or keep blending and you’ll have a well-integrated and velvety glass of gourd-y goodness.

2I like to serve this shake in a mason jar with an old-school striped straw and tons of whipped cream, but to be honest, it’d be just as delicious out of a paper bag.

EVERYTHING BAGEL SHAKE WITH MALTED BARLEY SYRUP & CREAM CHEESE

SERVES 1

How I married someone who doesn’t like ice cream is still beyond me. I guess I just figured I’d marry her first and try to change her later.

To that point, I often try to transform things she loves into sweets, thus cheating the system and cleverly redirecting her cravings. And there are few things she loves more than an everything bagel from a New York deli.

According to the foremost authorities, malted barley syrup is the secret weapon without which the great bagels of the world would cease to exist. Who am I to argue?

1 cup Blank Ice Cream Base

¼ teaspoon sesame seeds

¼ teaspoon poppy seeds

1 teaspoon dried minced onion

1 tablespoon cream cheese

2 tablespoons whole milk

1 tablespoon malted barley syrup

Bagel chip, for garnish

In a blender, or in a bowl using an immersion blender, thoroughly blend the blank base, seeds, onion, cream cheese, milk, and barley syrup. Serve in a milkshake glass with a bagel chip garnish.

OLIVE OIL & VANILLA LIME MILKSHAKE

SERVES 1

Sometimes a massage is the perfect escape. At other times, it can be downright delicious. This flavor is inspired by a specific spa experience in which, for 60 minutes, I was basted generously with a combination of extra virgin olive oil and essence of lime. And let me tell you, I have never left a massage so hungry in my life.

Olive oils love citrus (can’t say I blame them), and in milkshake form, a little bit of good-quality, fruity oil contributes an extra-lush and creamy character. Lemon and grapefruit are great in this recipe, too, but there’s something about the love between the sweet, bright oil and the sour lime that outshines its citrusy siblings.

This shake is also great with a sprinkle of cinnamon and a handful of crushed almonds or toasted coconut. Sip it, scoop it, or—I can honestly say—go ahead and bathe in it.

1 cup Blank Ice Cream Base

1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil

2 tablespoons whole milk

1 tablespoon lime zest

1 tablespoon lime juice

Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

In a blender, or in a bowl using an immersion blender, thoroughly blend the blank base, oil, milk, lime zest, lime juice, and vanilla bean seeds. Serve in a milkshake glass with a twist of lime and Sea-Salted Whip.

ICE CREAM CAKES

We’ve adequately explored why ice cream itself is special, but this takes the cake (sorry, I couldn’t resist). The kids who came to school with cupcakes had nothing on those who showed up with layers of creamy cold goodness.

I was one of the lucky ones. Every year, my mother constructed for me my very own homemade version. We will use the exact same structure here that she used—it isn’t groundbreaking, but it is totally satisfying and hugely customizable.

The trick is to have a bit of patience, as you’ll need to make sure you freeze these cakes in between building layers. If the ice cream, sauces, or fillings are too warm, they’ll churn into one another rather than creating distinct layers.

It’s always best if you can use freshly spun ice cream instead of thawing some to spread; however, if logistics and time don’t allow, you can prepare ice creams ahead of time and allow them to soften slightly—just enough to be spreadable—before working them into your layers.

MARGARITA CAKE

SERVES 20 TO 24

Commercially made sour mix finds its way into all manner of cabana-side cocktails, and the whole affair makes me so very sad. Why ruin a perfectly good tequila with a syrupy, chemical-laden, and cloyingly sweet liquid?

This cake gives you the best of the summertime slammer without the headache that comes standard, thanks to sour mix.

CAKE BASE

6 cups crushed graham crackers (use a food processor)

½ cup butter, melted

2 tablespoons agave nectar

FILLING

2 quarts Lemon Bar Ice Cream

Tequila Lime Curd

Sea-Salted Whip

1To make the cake base: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9” springform pan.

2In a medium bowl, stir the cracker crumbs, butter, and agave nectar together until well integrated. Press into the pan, using your fingers. Bake for 10 minutes and allow to cool completely.

3To fill: Once the crust is cooled completely, begin layering in the filling. Spread the first quart of Lemon Bar over the surface of the crust and return to the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until firm. Once fully chilled, spread a layer of Tequila Lime Curd and again return the cake to the freezer for about 10 minutes, or until the curd is firm. (If the curd is too warm, it will churn into the ice cream rather than remain a distinct layer.)

4Once the curd is firm, remove the cake from the freezer and spread the final quart of Lemon Bar Ice Cream evenly across the surface. Return to the freezer until prepared to serve.

5Just before serving, remove the cake from the freezer and release the sides of the pan. Using an offset spatula, spread Sea-Salted Whip over the top of the cake. You can double the recipe for the whip and also frost the sides of the cake, if you’d prefer.

6Slice and serve.

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH CAKE

SERVES 20 TO 24

If we put chunks of the stuff in our ice cream, it stands to reason that it’d be just as enjoyable holding it up. Using the eggless cookie dough recipe from the Barnburner application, this cake is chocolate chip cookie dough ice cream on steroids. If I can make a recommendation here, I suggest the following construction: 1 quart Grape-Nuts Ice Cream, Honeyed Peanut Butter Sauce, 1 quart Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream, Malted Hot Fudge, Sea-Salted Chocolate-Covered Pecan Toffee, and Sea-Salted Whip.

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Barnburner, minus the ice cream

2 sauces of your choice

2 quarts ice cream of your choice, softened before use

Topping of your choice

Whip of your choice

1Once the dough has been mixed, press it into a 9” springform pan to form the base of the cake. Spread the first sauce over the cookie surface and refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes, or until firm. Remove from the freezer and spread the first quart of softened ice cream over the surface.

2Return to the freezer for 15 to 30 minutes, or until firm. Once set, remove from the freezer and spread with the second sauce. Into the still-liquid sauce, sprinkle topping. Return to the freezer for another 15 to 30 minutes, or until firm.

3Once the middle sauce and topping layer have set, remove the cake from the freezer and spread the second softened quart of ice cream over the surface. Return to the freezer for at least 15 to 30 minutes.

4Just before serving, remove the cake from the freezer and remove the sides of the pan. Using an offset spatula, spread the whip over the top of the cake. (You can also double the recipe for the whip and frost all sides of the cake, if you prefer.)

5Slice and serve.

WHIFFER NUTTER EN FUEGO CAKE

SERVES 20 TO 24

Equal parts satisfaction and showmanship, this makes a great birthday cake—you won’t even need to buy candles.

CAKE BASE

3 cups crushed chocolate pebble cereal (use a food processor)

½ cup butter, melted

2 tablespoons peanut butter

FILLING

1 quart Bananas Ferrari Ice Cream

1 quart Honeyed Peanut Butter Sauce

1½ cups Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream

1 recipe of Marshmallow Whiff

1To make the cake base: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9” springform pan.

2In a medium bowl, stir together the cereal crumbs, butter, and peanut butter until well integrated. Press into the pan, using your fingers. Bake for 10 minutes and allow to cool completely.

3To fill: Once the crust is cooled completely, begin layering. Spread the Bananas Ferrari layer and return the cake to the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until firm. Remove from the freezer and spread the Honeyed Peanut Butter Sauce over the ice cream. Return to the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the sauce has hardened slightly. Spread the Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream and return to the freezer for another 20 to 30 minutes, or until firm.

4Once the cake is ready to serve, remove it from the freezer and, using an offset spatula, spread the Marshmallow Whiff over the top. It will be sticky and a bit tricky to work with; keep a cup of warm water nearby into which you can dip the spatula to help the process.

5Using a kitchen torch and working quickly and carefully, heat the surface of the whiff with the flame. Once torched to perfection, serve immediately!

I PAVLOVA ICE CREAM CAKE

SERVES 20 TO 24

I lived an embarrassingly extended period of time assuming that the name of this ethereal dessert and the Russian ballerina had no relation. Once I realized the error, I began to idolize Anna Pavlova—but not because of her dancing prowess. No, I want to be Anna Pavlova because how many contemporary figures can say they’ve had a bona fide dessert named after them?

This airy meringue-based cake, with its slightly crisp shell and chewy center, also provides the perfect pedestal. Texturally, it offers distinction from the ice cream without a dramatic interruption of the eating experience. I suggest the following construction over your Pavlova base: Salty Buttered Honey Ice Cream, Quick Pickled Berries, and Sea-Salted Whip.

PAVLOVA

6 egg whites

Pinch of salt

2 cups superfine sugar

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

2 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

CAKE

1 quart ice cream of your choice, softened before use

Topping of your choice

Whip of your choice

1To make the Pavlova: Preheat the oven to 300°F and grease a 9” springform pan.

2In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the egg whites and salt. Using the whisk attachment, beat until soft peaks form. Add the sugar gradually and continue beating.

3Once the peaks are stiff and shiny, add the vinegar. Sprinkle in the cocoa and chocolate and gently fold everything together.

4Spread the meringue evenly and to the edges of the springform pan. Bake for 60 to 70 minutes, or until the meringue is firm but still somewhat soft in the center. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely.

5To make the cake: Once the Pavlova has cooled, spread the ice cream over it and return the cake to the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until firm. Once set, remove from the freezer and layer on the topping. Freeze until ready to serve. Just before serving, remove the cake from the freezer and remove the sides of the pan. Using an offset spatula, spread the whip over the top of the cake. (You can also double the recipe for the whip and frost all sides of the cake, if you prefer.)

SUNDAES

So many sundaes start with good intentions but result in an unfortunate and clashing puddle of incompatible, discordant dregs.

It may not be rocket science, but the construction of a sundae does need to acknowledge a few critical components: flavor combinations, temperatures, textures, and, ultimately, the agreeability of ingredients. A really stellar ice cream sundae is one that has sturdy blueprints drawn up, with proper consideration paid to the start-to-finish experience.

Particularly with lesser-known flavors like the ones in this book, there is some understandable apprehension when attempting to match multiple options.

ROMAN HONEYMOON: AN ICE CREAM CHEESE PLATE

SERVES 2

With three cheese-based flavors and all the necessary accoutrements, this sundae eats like a perfectly laid-out cheese selection.

1 scoop Feta Tomato Swirl Ice Cream

1 scoop Finocchio e la Capra Ice Cream

1 scoop Cacio e Pepe Ice Cream

2 tablespoons good-quality honey

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 tablespoon toasted bread crumbs

1 teaspoon lemon zest

Sea-Salted Whip

1On a serving plate, arrange the 3 ice cream scoops in a triangle. Drizzle evenly with the honey and oil and sprinkle with the bread crumbs and lemon zest, reserving a pinch of each.

2Dollop with Sea-Salted Whip. Sprinkle with the remaining lemon zest and bread crumbs and serve.

TENNESSEE BBQ SUNDAE

SERVES 1

Sure, it may sound a little strange, but this is the dessert of pulled pork sandwiches: the warm and savory pork and the pillowy biscuit, the tartness of the pickled berries cutting through the entire dish, contributing the acidic punch required to brighten and contrast with the rest of this rich composition. Just trust me on this one.

1 Better-Than-Buttermilk Biscuit

¾ cup Caramel Ice Cream Braised Pork Shoulder

2 tablespoons Quick Pickled Berries

1 scoop Brown Sugar BBQ Softer-Serve

Sea-Salted Whip, optional

1This recipe is best when the biscuits are a bit warm. If they’re not fresh from the oven, cut them in half and toast lightly in a skillet.

2I like to build this sundae from the bottom up. In a sundae dish, first place the bottom half of the biscuit, then a layer of pork, followed by a dressing of pickled berries (this will act as a buffer between the warm pork and cold ice cream). Next add a scoop of Brown Sugar BBQ, and then complete the sundae with a biscuit top. A dollop of Sea Salted Whip on the side never hurt anyone, either.

3Serve immediately and forget the rules.

HOW MANY TIMES MUST I SAY ICE CREAM FOR BREAKFAST? SUNDAE

SERVES 1 OR 2

Do I need to explain?

1 slice Melted Ice Cream French Toast

1 scoop Bananas Ferrari Ice Cream

1 scoop Doughnut Ya Love Coffee Ice Cream

2 tablespoons Coffee Caramel Sauce

Sea-Salted Whip

Malted Salted Toffee

While still warm, set the French toast in a dish. Top with the 2 ice cream scoops, arranged side by side, and drizzle with the caramel. Dollop on the whip, sprinkle with the toffee, and serve.