Yucatán Peninsula
Quintana Roo
Cancún
Isla Mujeres
Isla Holbox
Puerto Morelos
Playa del Carmen
Isla Cozumel
Tulum
Cobá
Punta Allen
Mahahual
Xcalak
Laguna Bacalar
Chetumal
Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland
Mérida
Uxmal
Santa Elena
Kabah
Ruta Puuc
Ruinas de Mayapán
Celestún
Progreso
Izamal
Chichén Itzá
Valladolid
Ek’ Balam
Río Lagartos
Campeche State
Campeche
Northern Campeche
Southeastern Campeche
Yucatán Peninsula
Why Go?
Few Mexican destinations can dazzle you with ancient Maya ruins, azure Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico waters and colonial cities all in one fell swoop. Actually, there’s only one – the Yucatán Peninsula. The peninsula comprises parts of Belize and Guatemala, as well as three separate Mexican states: Yucatán, Quintana Roo and Campeche. Quintana Roo is probably the best known thanks to the tourism mega-destinations of Cancún, Tulum and Playa del Carmen, where millions flock annually to get their share of vitamin D on brochure-perfect beaches or resort infinity pools. But head just a couple of hours west and you hit Mérida, the capital of Yucatán state, whose colonial vestiges and contemporary restaurants are a satisfying change of pace, not to mention the many cenotes (freshwater springs) nearby. Neighboring Campeche state is home to mind-blowing Maya ruins galore. This entire compact peninsula holds wonderful, varied and accessible travel surprises.
When to Go
- Dec–Apr Mérida Fest is held in January; the weather is much cooler.
- Jul & Aug Hot and humid throughout the peninsula. Hurricane season begins. Hotel rates rise.
- Sep–Nov Weather cools down from September to November. Great hotel deals. Crowds thin out at ruins.
Best Places to Stay
Yucatán Peninsula Highlights
1 Mérida Wandering this magnificent colonial capital and feasting on local treats.
2 Parque Dos Ojos Diving in this extraordinary underground cave system.
3 Isla Holbox Snorkeling with 15-ton whale sharks or spotting rare birds in nearby islands.
4 Calakmul Exploring some of the Maya’s tallest pyramids, with awesome views of the surrounding jungle.
5 Chichén Itzá Staring in awe at the El Castillo pyramid and learning about Maya culture.
6 Laguna Bacalar Plunging into the 90m-deep Cenote Azul and delighting at the lake of seven colors.
7 Cobá Marveling as the jungle awakens with birdcalls and morning light filtering through the canopy.
8 Isla Cozumel Diving amid coral reefs at one of the world’s best underwater destinations.
9 Campeche Meandering through colorful streets and chilling in the main plaza of this delightfully relaxed capital.
Quintana Roo
Cancún
%998 / Pop 628,000
Cancún is a tale of two cities. There’s a glitzy hotel zone with its famous white-sand beaches, unabashed party scene and sophisticated seafood restaurants. Then there’s the actual city itself, with neighborhood taco joints and undeveloped beaches.
Had your fill of raucous discos in the hotel zone? Escape to a downtown salsa club. Tired of lounging around the pool in Ciudad Cancún? Simply hop on a bus and head for the sapphire waters of the hotel zone.
Or even better, venture out and explore more of Quintana Roo state. Just a day trip away from Cancún, the pristine national park of Isla Contoy beckons with a fascinating variety of bird and plant species. Cobá, with its Maya ruins, jungle, and croc-infested lagoon, seems like a different world. Even further south, Bacalar’s lagoon seems almost CGI-created, with Photoshop gradients of blue, green and sand.
1Sights
oMuseo Maya de CancúnMUSEUM
(map Maya Museum; www.inah.gob.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 16.5; M$70; 
h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; 
gR-1)
Holding one of the Yucatán’s most important collections of Maya artifacts, this modern museum is a welcome sight in a city known more for its party scene than cultural attractions. On display are some 400 pieces found at key sites in and around the peninsula, ranging from sculptures to ceramics and jewelry. One of the three halls shows temporary Maya-themed exhibits.
Cancún’s original anthropology museum shut down in 2006 due to structural damage from hurricanes. The new museum features hurricane-resistant reinforced glass. The price of admission includes access to the adjoining San Miguelito archaeological site.
All RitmoAMUSEMENT PARK
(map %998-881-79-00; www.allritmocancun.com/en/waterpark; Puerto Juárez-Punta Sam Hwy Km 1.5; adult M$320-350, child 5-12yr M$270-290; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)
Little ones can splish and splash to their heart’s content at this water park, which also has mini-golf and shuffleboard. The turnoff is 2km north of the Ultramar ferry terminal. ‘Punta Sam’ colectivos on Avenida Tulum (opposite the bus terminal) will drop you at the turnoff, and it’s a short walk from there.
Zona Arqueológica El ReyARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(map Blvd Kukulcán Km 18; M$50; h8am-4:30pm; gR-1, R-2)
In the Zona Arqueológica El Rey, on the west side of Blvd Kukulcán, there’s a small temple and several ceremonial platforms. The site gets its name from a sculpture excavated here of a noble, possibly a rey (king), wearing an elaborate headdress. El Rey, which flourished from AD 1200 to 1500, and nearby San Miguelito were communities dedicated to maritime trade and fishing.
Beaches
Starting from Ciudad Cancún in the northwest, all of Isla Cancún’s beaches are on the left-hand side of the road. (The lagoon is on your right; don’t swim in the lagoon because of crocodiles!) The first beaches are Playas Las Perlas, Juventud, Linda, Langosta, Tortugas and Caracol. With the exception of Playa Caracol, these are Cancún’s most swimmable beaches.
When you round Punta Cancún the water gets rougher (though it’s still swimmable) and the beaches become more scenic as white sands meet the turquoise-blue Caribbean, from Playa Gaviota Azul all the way down south to Punta Nizuc at Km 24.
Playa Las PerlasBEACH
(map Km 2.5)
A small beach with a great kids’ playground, bathrooms and free palapa-topped tables. Free parking. Access from north side of the Holiday Inn.
Playa LangostaBEACH
(map Km 5)
In the middle of the north end of Zona Hotelera, Playa Langosta is a gem of a place for swimming. Facing Bahía de Mujeres, the beach is coated with Cancún’s signature powdered coral sand and the waters are quite shallow, making it good for snorkeling. If you’ve had enough of the water there are lots of beach restaurants and bars.
Playa CaracolBEACH
(map Km 8.7)
Next to the Isla Mujeres ferry dock, this tiny stretch of sand is probably the least inviting of Cancún’s beaches, but you can head left when you hit the water to get to the lovely beach ‘belonging’ to the Hotel Riu. No parking.
WORTH A TRIP
PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA CONTOY
Spectacular Isla Contoy (%998-234-99-05; contoy@conanp.gob.mx) is a bird-lover’s delight: an uninhabited national park and sanctuary that is an easy day trip from Cancún and from Isla Mujeres. About 800m at its widest point and more than 8.5km long, it has dense foliage that provides ideal shelter for more than 170 bird species, including brown pelicans, olive cormorants, turkey birds, brown boobies and frigates, and is also being a good place to see red flamingos, snowy egrets and white herons.
Whale sharks are often sighted north of Contoy between June and September. In an effort to preserve the park’s pristine natural areas, only 200 visitors are allowed access each day. Bring binoculars, mosquito repellent and sunblock.
Guided tours to Isla Contoy give you several hours of free time to explore the island’s interpretive trails, climb a 27m-high observation tower and get in a little snorkeling.
For more information on the island, Amigos de Isla Contoy has a website with detailed information on the island’s ecology.
Tour operators based out of Cancún and Isla Mujeres run trips to Contoy.
Playa Chac-MoolBEACH
(map Km 9.5)
With no parking, this is one of the quieter beaches in Cancún, with a lifeguard on duty. There’s no food, but there are stores and restaurants near the access, opposite Señor Frogs.
Playa MarlinBEACH
(map Km 12.5)
A long, lovely stretch of sand with lifeguards on duty and deck chairs, umbrellas and tables for rent. There’s no food, but there is an Oxxo out on Blvd Kukulcán, north of the Kukulcán Plaza where the beach access is.
Playa DelfinesBEACH
(map Km 17.5; 
p)
Delfines is about the only beach with a public car park; unfortunately, its sand is coarser and darker than the exquisite fine sand of the more northerly beaches. On the upside, the beach has great views, there are some nearby Maya Ruins to check out and, as the last beach along the boulevard, it is rarely crowded. Heed the signs regarding swimming conditions as undertows are common here.
2Activities
Diving & Snorkeling
oMuseo Subacuático de ArteDIVING, SNORKELING
(map MUSA Underwater Museum; %998-206-01-82; www.musacancun.com; snorkeling tour US$41.50, 1-tank dive US$64.50; h9am-5pm) 
S
Built to divert divers away from deteriorating coral reefs, this one-of-a-kind aquatic museum features more than 500 life-size sculptures in the waters of Cancún and Isla Mujeres. The artificial reefs are submerged at depths of 4m and 8m, making them ideal for snorkelers and first-time divers. Organize dives through diving outfits; Scuba Cancún is recommended. The underwater museum is a creation of British-born sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor.
Scuba CancúnDIVING
(map %998-849-52-25; www.scubacancun.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.2; 1-/2-tank dives US$62/77, equipment rental extra)
A family-owned and PADI-certified dive operation with many years of experience, Scuba Cancún was the city’s first dive shop. It offers a variety of snorkeling, fishing and diving expeditions (including cenote and night dives). It also runs snorkeling and diving trips to the underwater sculpture museum, aka MUSA.
TTours
Captain HookBOATING
(map %998-849-49-31; www.capitanhook.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5, Marina Capitán Hook; adult US$84-109, child under 13yr US$5; htour 7-10:30pm)
There’s nothing like a swashbuckling adventure with sword fights and cannon battles to get kids’ imaginations running wild. This 3½-hour tour aboard a Spanish galleon replica includes dinner service, and it costs a pretty doubloon if you opt for the steak and lobster option (US$95).
AsterixTOURS
(map %998-886-42-70; www.contoytours.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.2; adult/child 5-12yr US$99/54; htours 9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Tours to Isla Contoy depart from Marina Scuba Cancún (map). They include guide, breakfast, lunch at Isla Mujeres, open bar and snorkeling gear. Hotel pickup can be arranged for US$10 extra per person.
4Sleeping
The city has a variety of accommodations ranging from budget all the way to mind- and budget-blowing. Almost all hotels offer discounts during ‘low’ season, but many have up to five different rate periods: Christmas and New Year are always at a premium, with high rates from late February to early March (US spring break), at Easter, and in July and August (when locals have their holidays). Many places have great online promotions.
Hostel Mundo JovenHOSTEL$
(map Google map %998-898-21-03; www.facebook.com/mundojovenhostelcancun; Av Uxmal 25; dm/d incl breakfast from US$11/37; 
n
a
i
W; gR-1)
One of downtown’s budget deals, common-area offerings at this HI affiliate include a rooftop bar and a hot tub (that seems to be constantly undergoing repair). Dorm rooms are tidy and cost slightly more with air-conditioning. With other hostels offering far more nearby, the best reason to book here is its proximity to the bus station.
Grand Royal LagoonHOTEL$$
(map %998-883-27-49, 800-552-46-66; www.gr-lagoon.com; Quetzal 8A; r M$1100; pnaW
s; gR-1)
A breezy place, and relatively affordable for the Zona Hotelera, the Grand Royal offers cable TV, safes and a small pool. Most rooms have two double beds, while some have kings, lagoon views and balconies. It’s 100m off Blvd Kukulcán Km 7.5. Wi-fi is in the lobby only.
Hotel AntillanoHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-11-32; www.hotelantillano.com.mx/eng; Claveles 1; s/d incl breakfast M$1120/1270; pnaWs; gR-1)
Just off Avenida Tulum is this very pleasant and quiet place with a relaxing lobby, nice pool, good central air-con and cable TV. Rooms on the Avenida catch more street noise. Rates drop considerably during low season.
Hotel Plaza CaribeHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-13-77; www.hotelplazacaribe.com; Pino s/n; r M$1295; pnaWs; gR-1)
Directly across from the bus terminal, this hotel offers comfortable rooms, a pool, restaurant and gardens with peacocks roaming about. The remodeled ‘executive’ rooms sport a more modern look than the ‘standard’ digs.
Hotel Colonial CancúnHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-15-35; www.hotelcolonialcancun.com; Tulipanes 22; d M$850; naWs; gR-1)
Rooms are anything but colonial, but they’re pleasant enough and they overlook a leafy central courtyard with a gurgling fountain. The hotel has a small pool area.
Hotel BonampakHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-02-80; www.hotelbonampak.com; Av Bonampak 225; r incl breakfast M$1220; pnaiWs; gR-1, R-2)
Good value by Cancún standards, rooms at this business-style hotel have comfy mattresses, dark-wood furnishings and flat-screen TVs. Ask for one overlooking the sunny pool area.
4Ciudad Cancún
‘Budget’ is a relative term; prices in Cancún are higher for what you get than most anywhere else in Mexico. There are many cheap lodging options within several blocks of the bus terminal, northwest on Avenida Uxmal. The area around Parque de las Palapas has numerous hostels and budget digs as well.
Midrange in Cancún is a two-tiered category; the Ciudad Cancún area is much cheaper than the Zona Hotelera and only a short bus ride away from the Zona’s beaches.
Hostel Ka’behHOSTEL$
(map Google map %988-892-79-02, 998-168-80-27; www.cancunhostel.hostel.com; Alcatraces 45; dm/r incl breakfast M$380/880; naiW; gR-1)
A friendly central option just off the buzzing Parque de las Palapas, this small hostel has a lived-in feel that goes hand in hand with the relaxed vibe. Expect many social activities at night, most organized around food and drink. Vans depart to the beach in the mornings and to the Zona Hotelera after dinner.
oMezcal HostelHOSTEL$$
(map Google map %998-125-95-02, 998-255-28-44; www.mezcalhostel.com; Mero 12; dm/r incl breakfast US$20/64; naWs; gR-1)
If getting a made-to-order omelette in the morning doesn’t grab you, perhaps the swimming pool, the bar, the numerous activities or the nightly excursions to the clubs will. Mezcal Hostel occupies a beautiful two-story house in a quiet residential area. Sunday barbecue parties are perfect for sipping smoky mezcal. Smoke can be thick in the common areas, but the dorms are smoke-free.
Cancún International SuitesHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-17-71; www.cancuninternationalsuites.com; Gladiolas 11, cnr Alcatraces; r/ste M$1100/2000; naW; gR-1)
Colonial-style rooms and suites in this remodeled hotel are comfortable and quiet and the location is great – right off Parque de las Palapas and conveniently close to downtown’s restaurant and bar zone.
Soberanis HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-45-64; www.hotelsoberanis.com; Av Cobá 5 s/n; d incl breakfast M$1300; niW; gR-1)
Location, location, location. The Soberanis sits right on a corner where buses stop before continuing on to the Zona Hotelera, plus there’s a supermarket right next door. The rooms have comfortable, clean beds and wood furnishings. No elevator means the lotsa-luggage crowd may want to look elsewhere.
Náder Hotel & SuitesHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-884-15-84; www.suitesnadercancun.com; Av Náder 5; d/ste incl breakfast US$54/75; naW; gR-1)
The Náder caters to business travelers, but it’s also a hit with families thanks to its ample rooms and suites with large common areas and kitchens. Even the ‘standard’ setup here gets you digs with some serious elbow room.
oHotel El Rey del CaribeHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %998-884-20-28; www.elreydelcaribe.com; Av Uxmal 24; r incl breakfast M$3400; naWs; gR-1) S
El Rey is a true ecotel – it recycles, employs solar collectors and cisterns, uses gray water on the gardens, and has some rooms with composting toilets. This beautiful spot has a swimming pool and Jacuzzi in a jungly courtyard that’s home to a small family of tlacuaches (opossums). All rooms have a fully equipped kitchenette, comfortable beds and fridges.Offers good online deals.
4Zona Hotelera
With few exceptions, most hotels lining Blvd Kukulcán are of the top-end variety. Many offer all-inclusive packages, often at reasonable rates if you’re willing to forgo eating elsewhere. Often the best room rates are available through hotel-and-airfare packages, so shop around.
Hostel NaturaHOSTEL$$
(map %998-883-08-87; www.facebook.com/HostelCancunNatura; Blvd Kukulcán Km 9.5; dm/r US$30/65; naW; gR-1)
Up above a health-food restaurant of the same name, this fun, vibrant Zona Hotelera hostel offers private rooms with lagoon views and somewhat cramped dorms, offset by the airy rooftop terrace, and a nice common kitchen area. The party zone is just a stumble away, and the staff are helpful and friendly.
oLe BlancRESORT$$$
(map %800-272-02-15, 998-881-47-48, US 877-883-3696; www.leblancsparesort.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 10; d/ste all-inclusive US$766/806; pnaWs; gR-1, R-2)
You can’t miss the glaring white exterior of the aptly named Le Blanc, arguably Cancún’s most sophisticated resort. This adults-only retreat comes with all the amenities you’d expect in this category: gorgeous infinity pool, cold welcome drink on check-in, coconut-scented hand towels – the works. There’s even butler service should life in Cancún become too complicated. Discounts for multiple-night stays.
oBeachscape Kin Ha Villas & SuitesHOTEL$$$
(map %998-891-54-00; http://beachscapekinhavillas.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.5; r from US$108; pnaiWs; gR-1)
A good family spot, Beachscape offers a babysitting service, a play area for kids and a swimmable beach with calm waters. You’ll never need to leave the hotel’s grounds (though we think you should), as there are bars, markets, travel agencies and more on the premises. All rooms feature a balcony and two double beds or one king-sized bed. The price listed is for the European plan, but you can arrange an all-inclusive stay.
Me by MeliaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(map %998-881-25-00; www.mebymelia.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 12; d all-inclusive from US$320; pnaWs; gR-1, R-2)
Just reopened after extensive renovations, this is an uber-modern, expressionist-inspired hotel. A Times Square–sized TV dazzles behind the reception desk, and futuristic-rustic swing hammocks await you outside. It won’t suit everyone, but if you prefer clean lines over standard Cancún baroque, it’s the place for you. Only half the rooms have ocean views, so be sure to request one that does.
5Eating
Where you go to eat often is based on where you are staying: the Hotel Zone or the city centro. Either place has a range of options, though meals are (not surprisingly) pricier in the Hotel Zone.
Rooster Café SunyaxchenCAFE$
(map %998-310-46-92; Avenida Sunyaxchen, Supermanzana 24, At Plaza Sunyaxchen; mains M$60-120; h7am-11pm)
A main go-to café for locals in search of a place to write, work or hang out, this trendy coffee shop has a central location in downtown Cancún, close to Market 28. Try items like Monte Cristo waffles and homemade breads from the breakfast menu, or stop by in the afternoon for desserts, salads, burgers and paninis.
Taco FactoryMEXICAN$
(map %998-883-48-64; www.facebook.com/taco.factory.cancun; Blvd Kukulcán Km 9; tacos M$20-37; h11:30am-7am Mon & Wed-Sun, 1pm-4am Tue; gR-1)
This casual open-air eatery boasts the best authentic Mexican tacos in the Cancún Hotel Zone, and its convenient location in the central alley right by the nightclub strip makes it perfect for late-night cravings. For great flavor, try the tacos al pastor.
oEl Tigre y El ToroITALIAN$$
(map Google map %998-898-00-41; Av Náder 64; mains M$140-170; h6pm-midnight; W
v; gR-1, R-2)
Gourmet thin-crust pizza and homemade pastas are served in a pebbly candlelit garden at El Tigre y El Toro (‘tiger’ and ‘bull’ are the owners’ nicknames). Many locals rank this as Cancún’s numero uno pizza joint.
La ParrillaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %998-287-8118; www.laparrilla.com.mx; 51 Av Yaxchilán; mains M$130-550; hnoon-2am)
Colorful decoration, a large outdoor bull, and the sounds of a mariachi band invite you in to La Parrilla on Avenida Yaxchilán, a downtown street known for its dive bars and classic Mexican food. Open since 1975, La Parrilla fills up with locals and tourists alike thanks to its tasty tacos al pastor (M$184) and extensive menu of authentic Mexican cuisine.
La Fonda del ZancudoINTERNATIONAL$$
(map %998-884-1741; www.facebook.com/lafondadelzancudo; 23 Av Uxmal; mains M$95-225; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; gR-1)
Softly illuminated by strings of lights, lanterns and moonlight, this alluring little restaurant sits within an enchanting walled patio on downtown Cancún’s central Avenida Uxmal. The main menu boasts artisanal creations made primarily with local organic ingredients, and the daily specials wall always has tempting culinary surprises and inventive cocktails to try.
IroriJAPANESE$$
(map Google map %998-892-30-72; www.iroricancun.com.mx; Av Tulum 226; mains M$85-220; h1-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 9:30pm Sun; W
c; gR-27)
Enjoy the show as the chef slices and dices the night away at this Japanese-run restaurant serving sushi and many other Japanese favorites in an intimate setting. There’s even a kids’ menu and playroom for those with little sushi-scoffers in tow. You’ll find the entrance on Calle Viento. Note that it may close early on slow nights.
oHarry’sSTEAK$$$
(map %998-840-65-50; www.harrys.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 14.2; mains M$470-1500; h1pm-1am; gR-1, R-2)
Stunning, renowned Harry’s serves house-aged steaks, plus super-fresh fish and a famous cotton candy treat. The architecture’s impressive too, with indoor waterfalls, plenty of decking over the lagoon and two bars – one indoors and one out. Service is impeccable too. Try the jungle-theme lounge or new club upstairs, and don’t miss peeking at their mezcal display. Yum!
oLa HabichuelaFUSION$$$
(map Google map %998-884-31-58; www.lahabichuela.com; Margaritas 25; mains M$190-345; h1pm-midnight; pW; gR-1)
This elegant restaurant has a lovely courtyard dining area, just off Parque de las Palapas. The specialty is the cocobichuela (shrimp and lobster in curry sauce served inside a coconut with tropical fruit, M$545), but almost anything on the menu is delicious. The menu even has a Maya-English dictionary! La Habichuela Sunset (map %998-840-62-80; www.lahabichuela.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 12.6; mains M$250-400; hnoon-midnight; W; gR-1, R-2), the restaurant’s slightly pricier Zona Hotelera branch, affords a gorgeous lagoon view.
Crab HouseSEAFOOD$$$
(map %998-193-03-50; www.crabhousecancun.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 14.7; dishes M$450-1250; hnoon-11:30pm; pW; gR-1)
Offering a lovely view of the lagoon that complements the seafood, the long menu here includes many shrimp and fish-fillet dishes. Stone crab is the specialty, which (along with lobster) is priced by the pound. Both are served from crystal-clear tanks. The establishment prides itself in having no holidays: not even for hurricanes.
Peter’s RestauranteINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map %998-251-93-10; http://petersestaurante.restaurantwebexperts.com; Avenida Bonampak, btwn Calles Sierra & Robalo; dinner M$400-1200; h6-10pm Tue-Sat)
Set on one of downtown Cancún’s busiest avenues, Peter’s Restaurante has a homey charm and some of the best cooking in the city. Dutch Chef Peter Houben has blended European, Mexican and international cuisine, with beautifully prepared dishes like the mushroom ravioli appetizer and fresh salmon filet in lemon sauce with a spicy hint of chile de àrbol (tree chili).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Many clubs and restaurants are open for drinks for much of the day. Cancún doesn’t offer much in the way of a gay and lesbian scene, but downtown has a few nightspots.
oMambocaféCLUB
(map Google map %998-884-45-36; www.mambocafe.com.mx; Plaza Hong Kong, cnr Avs Xcaret & Tankah; cover M$200; h10pm-5am Wed-Sat; gR-2)
The large floor at this happening club is the perfect place to practice those Latin dance steps you’ve been working on. Live groups play Cuban salsa and other tropical styles.
Nomads Cocina & BarraCOCKTAIL BAR
(map %998-898-31-92; http://nomadscancun.com; cnr Av Náder & Mero; h3pm-2am, to 3am Fri & Sat; gR-1)
Showing off with an artsy vibe where geometric tiles meet concrete and brick, Nomads draws in Cancún’s young ‘in crowd’ with classic Mexican street food, creative cocktails and innovative cuisine. The indoor area allows friends to sit down to a late dinner (mains M$110 to M$280), while the back area under the stars is standing-room-only for socializing by the bar.
The CityCLUB
(map %998-883-33-33; http://thecitycancun.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 9; incl drinks from US$65; h10:30pm-5am Fri; gR-1)
The largest nightclub in Latin America still manages to fill up every Friday night. Frequently hosting world-famous DJs and musicians, this massive place offers wild nightlife whether you’re dancing on top of the central stage or watching it all from the stadium-style side levels. Due to the crowds and ‘party hearty’ atmosphere, be aware that it can be nuts at times.
Marakame CaféBAR
(map Google map %998-887-10-10; www.marakamecafe.com; Av Circuito Copán 19, near Av Nichupté; h8am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; W)
An excellent open-air breakfast and lunch spot by day, and a popular bar with live music by night. The bartenders, or mixologists if you will, prepare interesting concoctions such as kiwi-flavored mojitos and margaritas blended with chaya (tree spinach), cucumber and lime. It’s a short taxi ride from downtown.
7Shopping
Shopaholics will enjoy the city’s colorful markets. Locals head to either Mercado 28 (map Google map Mercado Veintiocho; cnr Avs Xel-Há & Sunyaxchén; h6am-7pm) or Mercado 23 (map Google map Av Tulum s/n; h6am-7pm; gR-1) for clothes, shoes, inexpensive food stalls and so on. Of the two, Mercado 23 is the less frequented by tourists. If you’re looking for a place without corny T-shirts, this is the place to go. There’s definitely no shortage of modern malls in Cancún.
La EuropeaDRINKS
(map %998-176-82-02; www.laeuropea.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 12.5; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; gR-1)
A gourmet liquor store with reasonable prices, knowledgable staff and the best booze selection in town, including top-shelf tequilas and mezcals. Most airlines allow you to travel with up to 3L of alcohol, but check first. Salud!
Plaza KukulcánMALL
(map www.kukulcanplaza.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 13; h10am-10pm; W; gR-1)
The largest of the indoor malls is Plaza Kukulcán. Of note here are the temporary art exhibits, the many stores selling silverwork, and La Ruta de las Indias, a shop featuring wooden models of Spanish galleons and replicas of conquistadors’ weaponry and body armor.
8Information
EMERGENCY
| Cruz Roja (Red Cross) | %911, %065 |
| Fire | %911, %998-884-12-02 |
| Police | %911, %066 |
| Tourist Police | %911, %066, %998-885-22-77 |
IMMIGRATION
A Instituto Nacional de Migración (Immigration Office; %998-881-35-60; www.gob.mx/inm; cnr Avs Náder 1 & Uxmal; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Go here to replace lost immigration forms.
MEDICAL SERVICES
A Hospital Playa Med (%998-140-52-58; www.hospitalplayamed.com; Av Náder 13, cnr Av Uxmal; h24hr; gR-1) Modern facility with 24-hour assistance.
MONEY
There are several banks with ATMs throughout the Zona Hotelera and downtown on Avenida Tulum. Cancún’s airport also has ATMs and money exchange.
A Scotiabank (La Isla Shopping Village, Zona Hotelera; h24hr) One of the many options.
POST
There is no post office in the Zona Hotelera, but most hotels’ reception desks sell stamps and will mail letters.
The Main Post Office (map cnr Avs Xel-Há & Sunyaxchén; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat) is downtown at the edge of Mercado 28. You can also post mail in the red postal boxes sprinkled around town.
TOURIST INFORMATION
A Amigos de Isla Contoy (map %998-884-74-83; www.islacontoy.org; Plaza Bonita Mall; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has helpful info about Isla Contoy and works to conserve the island.
A Cancún Visitors Bureau (www.cancun.travel) An informative website, but no tourist office.
A Casa Consular (map %998-840-60-82; www.casaconsular.org; Kukulcán Km 13; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri) While they don’t provide consular assistance themselves, Casa Consular will find the exact information you need and tell you where you need to go. It is a service for all visitors, not just those with an embassy or consulate in the city. Located inside the police and fire department building.
A FONATUR City Tourism Office (map %998-887-33-79, 555-090-42-00; www.fonatur.gob.mx; cnr Avs Cobá & Náder; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) City tourist office with ample supplies of printed material and knowledgable staff.
A Marina Headquarters (map %998-880-13-63, 998-234-99-05; contoy@conanp.gob.mx; Capitanía Regional de Puerto Juárez)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto Internacional de Cancún (%998-848-72-00; www.asur.com.mx; Hwy 307 Km 22) is the busiest airport in southeast Mexico. It has all the services you would expect from a major international airport: ATMs, money exchange and car-rental agencies. It’s served by many direct international flights and by connecting flights from Mexico City. Low-cost Mexican carriers VivaAerobus, Interjet and Volaris have service from Mexico City.
There are flights to Cancún from Guatemala City and Flores (Guatemala), Havana (Cuba), Panama City and São Paulo (Brazil). Some Havana–Cancún flights continue to Mérida.
For a full list of the carriers with flights to Cancún, see the airport website. Mexican carriers include the following:
A Aeroméxico (%998-193-18-68; www.aeromexico.com; Av Cobá 80; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; gR-1) Direct flights from Mexico City and New York. Office just west of Avenida Bonampak.
A Interjet (%998-892-02-78; www.interjet.com; Av Xcaret 35, Plaza Hollywood) Flies direct to Miami and Havana.
A Magnicharters (%800-201-14-04, 998-884-06-00; www.magnicharters.com.mx; Av Náder 94, cnr Av Cobá; gR-1) To Mexico City.
A VivaAerobus (%81-8215-0150; www.vivaaerobus.com; Cancún airport, Hwy 307 Km 22) Non-stop to Houston.
A Volaris (%551-102-80-00; www.volaris.com; Cancún airport, Hwy 307 Km 22) Service to Mexico City and many other parts of Mexico.
BOAT
There are several points of embarkation to reach Isla Mujeres from Cancún by boat. El Embarcadero (map), Playa Caracol (map) and Playa Tortugas (map) docks are among the options. From Puerto Juárez (map) it costs M$160; leaving from the Zona Hotelera it is US$14. If you want to transport a vehicle you’ll need to head to Punta Sam, 8km north of Ciudad Cancún (basic auto fares M$292 to M$511, including driver).
For Isla Contoy boats depart from the Marina Scuba Cancún. For more on hours and departure points to Isla Mujeres, see www.ultramarferry.com/en.
BUS
Cancún’s modern bus terminal (map www.ado.com.mx; cnr Avs Uxmal & Tulum) occupies the wedge formed where Avenidas Uxmal and Tulum meet. It’s a relatively safe area, but be aware of your bags and cautious of people offering to do anything for free. If you do accept help, make sure to establish the price before you get in the vehicle.
Across Pino from the bus terminal, a few doors from Avenida Tulum, is the ticket office and mini-terminal of Playa Express (map Calle Pino), which runs air-conditioned buses down the coast to Playa del Carmen every 10 minutes until early evening, stopping at major towns and points of interest. ADO (%800-009-90-90; www.ado.com.mx) covers the same ground and beyond with its 1st-class service.
ADO sets the 1st-class standard. Mayab provides good ‘intermediate class’ (tending to make more stops than 1st class) to many points.
BUSES FROM CANCúN
| DESTINATION | COST (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bacalar | 360-400 | 4-5 | frequent |
| Chetumal | 404-518 | 5½-6 | frequent |
| Chichén Itzá | 151-298 | 3-4 | 14 |
| Chiquilá | 128-230 | 3-3½ | 3 (Mayab) |
| Felipe Carrillo Puerto | 168-210 | 3½-4 | 6 |
| Mérida | 412-498 | 4-4½ | frequent |
| Mexico City | 2074 | 27 | 1 to Terminal Norte; 6:30pm |
| Mexico City (TAPO) | 2074 | 24½-28 | 2; 6:30am, 8pm |
| Palenque | 1326 | 13-13½ | 1; 5:45pm |
| Playa del Carmen | 38-106 | 1-1½ | frequent ADO & Playa Express |
| Puerto Morelos | 28 | ½-¾ | frequent ADO & Playa Express |
| Ticul | 288 | 8½ | frequent |
| Tizimín | 133 | 3 | 3 |
| Tulum | 116-206 | 2½ | frequent |
| Valladolid | 117-216 | 2-2¼ | 8 |
| Villahermosa | 1086-1286 | 12¾-14½ | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Cancún can get congested at times and driving inside the city may not be worth the stress, but you can certainly get around by car. Be careful to park in white curb areas only unless you’ve been specifically told parking in yellow is OK. Red, green and anything else than white is prohibited or reserved. Be aware that Hwy 180D, the cuota (toll road) running much of the way between Cancún and Mérida, costs M$450. An economy size rental car with liability insurance costs about M$600 per day.
A Alamo (%998-886-01-00; www.alamo.com.mx; Airport, Terminal 2)
A Avis (%800-288-88-88, 998-176-80-30; www.avis.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 12.5, Centro Comercial La Isla)
A Hertz (%800-709-50-00; www.hertz.com; Cancún airport)
A National (%998-881-87-60; www.nationalcar.com; Cancún airport)
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Frequent ADO buses go to Ciudad Cancún (M$72) between 8:20am and 12:30am. They depart from outside the terminals. Once in town, the buses travel up Avenida Tulum to the bus terminal on the corner of Avenida Uxmal. Going to the airport from Ciudad Cancún, the same ADO airport buses (Aeropuerto Centro) leave regularly from the bus station. ADO also offers bus services out of the airport to Playa del Carmen and Mérida.
Airport shuttle vans Green Line and Super Shuttle run to and from Ciudad Cancún and the Zona Hotelera for about US$50 per person.
Yellow Transfers (%998-193-17-42, 800-021-8087; www.yellowtransfers.com) is a pick-up and drop-off service from the airport to many area hotels.
Colectivos (map) are an inexpensive way to get to the airport. Regular taxis run from the airport into town or to the Zona Hotelera and cost up to M$650 (up to four people). Expect to pay about M$370 for a city cab when returning to the airport.
BUS
To reach the Zona Hotelera from Ciudad Cancún, catch any bus (map) with ‘R-1’ ‘Hoteles’ or ‘Zona Hotelera’ displayed on the windshield as it travels along Avenida Tulum toward Avenida Cobá then eastward on Avenida Cobá. South of Avenida Cobá, along Avenida Tulum, you can also catch the ‘R-27’ to the Zona Hotelera.
To reach Puerto Juárez and the Isla Mujeres ferries, you can either take a northbound ‘Punta Sam’ or ‘Puerto Juárez’ colectivo (map) from a bus stop on Avenida Tulum (across from the ADO terminal), or you can wait on Avenida Tulum for an R-1 ‘Puerto Juárez’ bus.
TAXI
Cancún’s taxis do not have meters. Fares are set, but you should always agree on a price before getting in; otherwise you could end up paying for a ‘misunderstanding.’ From Ciudad Cancún to Punta Cancún it’s usually M$100 to M$130, to Puerto Juárez M$50 to M$70. Trips within the Zona Hotelera or downtown zones cost around M$50. Hourly and daily rates should be about M$240 and M$2000, respectively.
Isla Mujeres
%998 / Pop 12,600
Some people plan their vacation around Cancún and pencil in Isla Mujeres as a side trip. But Isla Mujeres is a destination in its own right, and it’s generally quieter and more affordable than the options you get across the bay.
Sure, there are quite a few ticky-tacky tourist shops, but folks still get around by golf cart and the crushed-coral beaches are undeniably lovely. As for the calm turquoise water of Isla Mujeres, well, you really just have to see it for yourself.
There’s just enough here to keep you entertained: snorkel or scuba dive, visit a turtle farm or put on your sunglasses and settle in with that book you’ve been dying to finish. Come sunset, there are plenty of dining options, and the nightlife scene moves at a relaxed island pace.
1Sights
Isla Mujeres Turtle FarmFARM
(Isla Mujeres Tortugranja; %998-888-07-05; Carretera Sac Bajo Km 5; M$30; h9am-5pm; c) S
Although they’re endangered, sea turtles are still killed throughout Latin America for their eggs and meat. In the 1980s, efforts by a local fisherman led to the founding of this tortugranja (turtle farm), 5km south of town, which safeguards breeding grounds and protects eggs.
It’s a small spot, with a number of sizes of turtles and a few different species. The farm is easily reached from town by taxi (M$80) or golf cart.
Hatchlings are liberated immediately. The turtles that leave this secure beach return each year, which means their offspring receive the same protection. The sanctuary releases about 125,000 turtles each year, but only one of every 1000 will survive.
The farm provides refuge for loggerhead, hawksbill and green turtles ranging in weight from 150g to more than 300kg. It also has a small but interesting aquarium, displays on marine life and a pen that holds large nurse sharks. Tours are conducted in Spanish and English. The public is not always able to watch the releases (you can ask), but the farm usually does them around 7pm from July through November. It’s quite a sight to see the tiny creatures scurrying into the great big sea.
Punta SurVIEWPOINT, GARDENS
(ruins M$30)
At the island’s southernmost point you’ll find a lighthouse, a sculpture garden and the worn remains of a temple dedicated to Ixchel, Maya goddess of the moon and fertility. Various hurricanes have pummeled the ruins over time and there’s now little to see other than the sculpture garden, the sea and Cancún in the distance. Taxis from town cost about M$150.
Beaches
oPlaya GarrafónBEACH
Head to this beach for excellent snorkeling. It’s 6.5km from the tourist center. A cab costs M$120.
Playa NorteBEACH
Once you reach Playa Norte, the island’s main beach, you won’t want to leave. Its warm, shallow waters are the color of blue raspberry syrup and the beach is crushed coral. Unlike most of the island’s east coast, Playa Norte is safe for swimming and the water is only chest deep even far from shore.
Playa SecretoBEACH
(map Google map c)
The lagoon separating a large hotel complex from the rest of the island has a shallow swimming spot that’s ideal for kids. Despite the depth (or lack of it) a number of pretty fish circle around the swimmers looking for handouts.
2Activities
Diving & Snorkeling
Within a short boat ride of the island there’s a handful of lovely dives, such as La Bandera, Arrecife Manchones and Ultrafreeze (El Frío), where you’ll see the intact hull of a 60m-long cargo ship, thought to have been deliberately sunk in 30m of water. Expect to see sea turtles, rays and barracuda, along with a wide array of hard and soft corals.
There’s good shore-snorkeling near Playa Garrafón and at Yunque Reef. As always, watch for boat traffic when you head out snorkeling.
Snorkeling with whale sharks is another popular activity. The peak season runs from mid-June through August. It can get downright crazy, with up to a dozen boats circling one whale shark, but they limit the number of swimmers in the water to three people (including one guide). Most dive shops offer whale-shark excursions.
oHotel Garrafón de CastillaSNORKELING
(%998-877-01-07; Carretera Punta Sur Km 6; M$70, snorkel-gear rental M$80; h10am-6pm)
Avoid the overpriced Playa Garrafón Reef Park and instead visit Hotel Garrafón de Castilla’s beach club for a day of snorkeling.
Aqua Adventures Eco DiversDIVING
(map Google map %998-251-74-23, cell 998-3228109; www.diveislamujeres.com; Juárez 1, cnr Morelos; 2-tank dives incl equipment from US$75, whale-shark tour US$125; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
Great option for snorkeling with whale sharks and goes to 15 sites for reef dives.
Mundaca DiversDIVING
(map Google map %998-877-06-07, cell 998-1212228; www.mundacadiversisla.com; Madero s/n; 2-tank dives US$90, snorkeling US$47, bay fishing US$450; h8am-8pm)
Does everything from shark-cave dives and fishing expeditions to snorkeling trips to a one-of-a-kind underwater sculpture museum known as MUSA.
Isla Mujeres Town
4Sleeping
5Eating
8Transport
4Sleeping
oPoc-Na HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map %998-877-00-90; www.pocna.com; Matamoros 15; dm/d incl breakfast from M$300/600; naW)
You can’t beat this hostel’s common areas. For starters, the hostel is right on a lovely palm-shaded beach, home to one of the town’s most happening beach bars at night – and you can also pitch a tent if you bring your own. Guests can chill in a cool palapa lobby bar, where breakfast is served and local bands play nightly.
If at some point you get bored with all the lazing around, Poc-Na keeps things interesting by offering activities ranging from salsa and Spanish classes to snorkeling tours and bike rental (M$180 per day).
Apartments TrinchanAPARTMENT$$
(map Google map %cell 998-1666967; atrinchan@prodigy.net.mx; Carlos Lazo 46; r with fan/air-con M$700/800; aW)
Since it has no website, you’ll have to take our word for it when we say this is one of the best budget deals in town – and the beach is right around the corner. If it’s available, opt for one of the large apartments with full kitchen.
Hotel Francis ArleneHOTEL$$
(map Google map %998-877-03-10; www.francisarlene.com; Guerrero 7; r with fan/air-con from M$1200/1500; naW)
This place offers comfortable, good-sized rooms with fan (or air-con) and fridge. Most have a king-sized bed or two doubles, and many have balconies and partial sea views. The lounging frog sculptures are cute. Good low-season rates.
Hotel Na BalamBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %998-881-47-70; www.nabalam.com; Zazil-Ha 118; r/ste incl breakfast from US$196/283; naWs)
Iguanas roam the beautiful hibiscus and palm gardens at this beachfront hotel on Playa Norte. All rooms are decorated with simple elegance and have safes, hammocks, private balconies or patios, and some come with TVs. The hotel offers yoga and meditation classes as well as massage services and a swimming pool.
Hotel KinichBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %998-888-09-09; www.islamujereskinich.com; Juárez 20; s/d/ste incl breakfast M$1500/1800/2500; naW)
Boutique Hotel Kinich gives you plenty of bang for your buck in low season, when rates drop by about 40%, and even in high season the huge rooms with balconies are still a pretty good deal, especially the family-friendly suites. Wi-fi in the lobby only.
Casa El PíoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map www.casaelpio.com; Hidalgo 3; r US$95-113; naWs)
Book rooms well in advance if you want to stay at this small – and very popular – boutique hotel. One of the five rooms has an ocean view, as does the rooftop terrace, and all rooms have interesting design details. The pool is for splashing more than swimming, but with the beach right around the corner who cares? Online reservations only.
Hotel RocamarHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %998-877-01-01; www.rocamar-hotel.com; cnr Bravo & Guerrero; r M$2261-3094, casas M$6664; pnaWs)
Modern rooms (the glass-walled bathrooms in some may not appeal if you’re sharing with a casual acquaintance) feature private balconies with sea views. The view from the pool ain’t too shabby either. Casas are available with a full kitchen. Prices drop considerably in low season.
Wi-fi extends through the lobby only.
5Eating
Aluxes Coffee ShopCAFE$
(map Google map Matamoros 11; mains M$30-210; h8am-9pm Wed-Mon; W)
Aluxes serves bagels, baguettes and mighty fine banana bread (M$25), and it’s one of the friendliest joints in town.
oMango CaféBREAKFAST$$
(%998-274-01-18; Payo Obispo 101, Colonia Meterológico; mains M$85-125; h7am-3pm & 4-9pm; W)
See the south side of town and drop by Mango Café for some self-serve coffee and a hearty Caribbean-inspired breakfast. The hot items here are coconut French toast (M$100) and eggs Benedict in a curry hollandaise sauce (M$125). It’s a short bike or cab ride away, about 3km south of the ferry terminal.
oRooster CaféCAFE$$
(map Google map %998-274-01-52; Hidalgo 26; breakfasts M$85-195; h7am-6pm; W)
The undeniable king of the breakfast providers on the island is this cute little cafe with a couple of tables out front and chilly air-con inside. The menu covers the classics and throws in a couple of inventive twists, all served up with excellent coffee and attentive service.
La LomitaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %998-179-94-31; Juárez Sur 25; mains M$120-200; h9am-10pm)
The ‘Little Hill’ serves good, cheap Mexican food in a small, colorful setting. Seafood and chicken dishes predominate. Try the fantastic bean and avocado soup, or the ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon or lime juice, garlic and seasonings). The walls are cutely painted and outdoors there’s a little alfresco dining section with umbrellas.
oLola ValentinaFUSION$$$
(map Google map %998-315-94-79; Av Hidalgo s/n; mains M$175-345; h8am-11pm; Wv)
Overlooking the quieter north side of the restaurant strip, Lola does excellent Mexican fusion with dishes along the line of Thai-style shrimp tacos (M$175). Also on the menu are several vegan, gluten-free items, and the very popular and decidedly non-vegan, non-GF Latin Surf n’ Turf (M$375). They’ve added swings at the bar (fun!) and redone their tasty cocktail menu (yum!).
oOliviaMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(map Google map %998-877-17-65; www.olivia-isla-mujeres.com; Matamoros; mains M$170-250; h5-9:45pm Mon-Sat; W)
This delightful Israeli-run restaurant makes everything from scratch, from Moroccan-style fish served on a bed of couscous to chicken shawarmas wrapped in fresh-baked pita bread. Ask for a candlelit table out back in the garden, where Olivia (the cat) may stop by to say hi, and save room for the house-made cherry ice cream. Closes mid-September to mid-October. Reservations recommended.
Café del MarINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %998-848-8470, ext 806; Av Rueda Medina; mains M$198-290; h8am-11pm)
The loungiest and beach-clubbiest place on the island also has some of the best food, with a small but inventive fusion menu focusing on salads, seafood and pastas. The deck chairs and beach beds are a great place to finish off that daiquiri (and maybe order another). Palapas are an option for shade. Live music daily.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Buho’sBAR
(map Google map %998-877-03-01; Carlos Lazo 1, Playa Norte; h9am-11pm; W)
The quintessential swinger experience. Literally: they have swings at the bar. You can also take morning and afternoon yoga classes here. Any closer to the beach and you’ll be in the water.
Fenix LoungeBAR
(map Google map %998-274-00-73; www.fenixisla.com; Zazil-Ha 118; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; W)
A waterfront palapa bar where you can go for a swim in calm waters, enjoy excellent cocktails, such as the spicy mango margarita (M$130), and groove to live music on weekends.
El PatioBAR
(map Google map Av Hidalgo 17; h4pm-midnight; W)
The self-proclaimed ‘house of music’ has an open-air patio and rooftop terrace where on a good night you can catch blues or jazz acts and on a bad night mediocre ’80s cover bands. Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm, with food specials as well as discount drinks.
8Information
Several banks are directly across from the ferry dock. Most exchange currency and all have ATMs.
A HSBC (cnr Av Rueda Medina & Morelos; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
A Hospital Integral Isla Mujeres (%998-877-17-92; Guerrero, btwn Madero & Morelos) Doctors available 24/7.
A Hyperbaric Chamber (%998-877-17-92; Morelos s/n) Next to Hospital Integral Isla Mujeres. It’s often closed; inquire at the hospital.
A Tourist Information Office (%998-877-03-07; direcciondeturismo@hotmail.com; Av Rueda Medina 130, btwn Madero & Morelos; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Offers a number of brochures. Some staff members speak English.
8Getting There & Away
There are several points of embarkation from Cancún to reach Isla Mujeres. Most people cross on Ultramar passenger ferries. The R-1 ‘Puerto Juárez’ city bus in Cancún serves all Zona Hotelera departure points and Puerto Juárez, in Ciudad Cancún. If you arrive by car, daily parking fees in and around the terminals cost between M$130 and M$200, but it can be as low as M$50 if you go further from the terminal.
Fares for ferries departing from the Zona Hotelera are in US dollars. If you’re on a tight budget, it’s much cheaper to leave from Puerto Juárez. Ferries (www.granpuerto.com.mx) depart from the following docks:
A El Embarcadero (Blvd Kukulcán Km 4) Six daily departures; one way US$14.
A Playa Caracol (Blvd Kukulcán Km 9.5) Six daily departures; one way US$14.
A Playa Tortugas (Blvd Kukulcán Km 6.5) Eight daily departures; one way US$14.
A Puerto Juárez (4km north of Ciudad Cancún) Depart every 30 minutes; one way M$160.
A Punta Sam, 8km north of Ciudad Cancún, is the only ferry that transports vehicles and bikes. From Punta Sam, drivers are included in prices for the following one-way fares: cars (M$292), motorcycles (M$99) and bicycles (M$93); additional passengers pay M$40. Get there an hour before if you’re transporting a vehicle. See www.maritimaislamujeres.com for departure times. To reach Punta Sam, take a taxi or northbound ‘Punta Sam’ colectivo along Avenida Tulum. Ferries for Punta Sam and the Zona Hotelera leave from different docks, as does the ferry to Puerto Juárez.
8Getting Around
BICYCLE
Cycling is a great way to get around on the island’s narrow streets and to explore outlying areas.
A Rentadora Fiesta (Av Rueda Medina s/n, btwn Morelos & Bravo; per hour/day M$100/250; h8am-5pm) Rents mountain bikes and beach cruisers.
MOTORCYCLE & GOLF CART
Inspect all scooters carefully before renting. Costs vary, and are sometimes jacked up in high season, but generally start at about M$380 per day (9am to 5pm).
Many people find golf carts a good way to get around the island, and caravans of them can be seen tooling down the roads. The average cost is M$700 per day (9am to 5pm).
A Gomar (%998-877-16-86; Av Rueda Medina, cnr Bravo; per day M$700) Offers reasonable golf-cart rentals.
A Mega Ciro’s (%998-857-52-66; www.facebook.com/CirosGolfCartRentals; Av Guerrero 11; scooter/golf cart per day M$350/55; h9am-5pm) Rents out scooters and golf carts.
TAXI
Taxi rates are set by the municipal government and posted at the taxi base just south of the passenger-ferry dock. Rates start at M$25. There’s a taxi stand (Av Rueda Medina) near the ferries.
Isla Holbox
%984 / Pop 1500
Isla Holbox (hol-bosh) has sandy streets, colorful Caribbean buildings, lazing, sun-drunk dogs, and sand so fine it’s texture is nearly clay. The greenish waters are a unique color from the mixing of ocean currents, and on land there’s a mixing too: of locals and tourists, the latter hoping to escape the hubbub of Cancún.
‘Hoping’ is the operative word, because while there are no throbbing nightclubs here, and while it’s beautiful, it’s not exactly peaceful (what with the throngs of people and constant buzzing of noisy gasoline-powered golf carts), unless you really do get away from it all: to the more remote beaches either by golf cart or boat.
It’s a fantastic spot for wildlife. Lying within the Yum Balam reserve, Holbox is home to more than 150 bird species, including roseate spoonbills, pelicans, herons, ibis and flamingos. In summer, whale sharks congregate nearby.
1Sights
For most people, the island is synonymous with powdery sand, but there are some lovely lagoons, low forest and lots of wildlife. Some of the best ‘sights’ are underwater: whale sharks and sea turtles.
oPunta MosquitoBEACH
On the eastern side of the island, Punta Mosquito is about 2.5km east of the downtown area. It has a large sandbar and is a good place to spot flamingos.
TTours
oVIP Holbox ExperienceTOURS
(%984-875-21-07; www.vipholbox.com; whale shark tours per person US$125)
VIP Holbox Experience goes the extra mile to ensure that guests understand they are part of a delicate ecosystem – for the whale shark tours, they offer biodegradable sunscreen and follow strict guidelines to make sure these incredible animals are properly protected. Tours include delicious ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon or lime juice, garlic and seasonings) and a stop for snorkeling. They also offer a variety of other island tours, from kayaking to 4WD trips through the jungle.
SWIM WITH THE WHALE SHARKS
Between mid-May and late August, massive whale sharks congregate around Isla Holbox to feed on plankton. They are the largest fish in the world, weighing up to 15 tonnes and extending as long as 15m from gaping mouth to arching tail. Locals call them ‘dominoes’ because of their speckled skin.
The best time to track these gentle giants is in July and August, but that also happens to be shoulder season, when you can get up to two dozen boats rotating around a single whale shark. It’s unpleasant for both shark and swimmer, so think twice about taking a tour during this season. The alternative is going in June, but you risk not spotting any whale sharks.
The World Wildlife Fund has been working with the local community since 2003 to develop responsible practices for visiting the whale sharks, trying to balance the economic boon of these tours with the environmental imperatives of protecting a threatened species.
When swimming with the whale shark only three swimmers (including your guide) are allowed in the water at a time. You are not allowed to touch the fish, and are required to wear either a life jacket or wetsuit to ensure you do not dive below the shark.
4Sleeping
Not surprisingly, cabañas (cabins) and bungalows are everywhere along the beach. Some of the most upscale places can be found east of town, out along the island’s northern shore in what locals call the Zona Hotelera. Budget and midrange hotels are clustered around the plaza.
Hostel TribuHOSTEL$
(%984-875-25-07; www.tribuhostel.com; Av Pedro Joaquín Coldwell; dm/r from M$280/800; naW)
With so many activities available here (from salsa lessons to yoga and kayaking), it doesn’t take long to settle in with the tribe. Six-bed dorms and private rooms are clean, colorful and cheerful. Tribu also has a book exchange and a bar that stages weekly jam sessions. From the plaza, it’s one block north and two blocks west.
oCasa TakywaraHOTEL$$$
(%984-875-22-55; www.casatakywara.com; Paseo Carey s/n; d/bungalows incl breakfast M$3230/3990; naW)
Out on the quiet western end of town, this beautiful waterfront hotel stands out for its striking architecture and stylishly decorated rooms with kitchenettes and sea-view balconies. It’s built next to a patch of protected wetland where you’ll hear the song of chirping cicadas. Rates drop considerably during the low season. It’s 1km west of Avenida Tiburón Ballena.
Hotel Casa BarbaraHOTEL$$$
(%984-875-23-02; www.hotelcasabarbara.mx; Av Tiburón Ballena s/n; r incl breakfast M$2600; naWs)
A very comfortable hotel with a swimming pool surrounded by a verdant garden. Rooms are decked out with rustic furnishings and cushy beds, and most have porches overlooking the garden. It’s halfway between the ferry dock and the beach.
Hotel La PalapaHOTEL$$$
(%984-875-21-21; www.hotellapalapa.com; Morelos; r US$250; naW)
La Palapa offers cozy beachfront rooms, some with balconies overlooking the sea, and a cloistered beach area complete with an outdoor bar that serves scrumptious international food. The ocean view from the rooftop terrace is simply awesome. It’s 100m east of Avenida Tiburón Ballena along the beach.
5Eating
oLe JardinFRENCH$
(%984-115-81-97; www.facebook.com/LeJardin Panaderia; bread M$25-30, coffee M$40-65; h8:30am-12:30pm Wed-Sun; c)
Very tasty French pastries and morning breakfast selections make this a welcome spot if you’re craving something other than Mexican morning food. Coffee is delicious as well, and the plumeria and butterfly bordered, airy palapa makes for a comfortable spot to sit and chat with fellow diners. Kids will love the large toy selection to play with as adults dine.
oLimoncitoBREAKFAST$
(%984-875-23-40; Av Damero s/n; breakfast M$80-110; h8am-9:30pm Thu-Tue; W)
This colorful little palapa-covered restaurant on the square slings excellent Mexican breakfasts all day long. The motuleños (eggs in tomato sauce served with fried plantain, ham and peas) is a local favorite, as are the enchiladas.
Las PanchasMEXICAN$$
(%984-875-2413; Morelos s/n, btwn Avs Damero & Pedro Joaquín Coldwell; antojitos M$25-36, mains M$95-170; h8am-11:30am & 1-6pm)
Ask just about anyone in town where to go for good, cheap eats and they’ll probably point to Las Panchas, where you can get delicious Yucatecan antojitos (snacks) such as chaya (tree spinach) tamales, panuchos and salbutes (fried tortillas with tasty toppings).
Edelyn Pizzería & RestaurantPIZZA$$
(%984-875-20-24; Plaza Principal; pizzas from M$100; hnoon-11:30pm)
We would be remiss if we didn’t mention the self-proclaimed creators of Holbox’s famous lobster pizza (from M$300), but locals say you can find much better pies with the coveted lobster topping elsewhere in town (hint: one is right across the square).
oEl ChapulímMEXICAN$$$
(%984-137-60-69; Tiburón Ballena s/n; mains from M$350; hfrom 6pm Mon-Sat)
El Chapulím doesn’t take reservations, has no menu, and the kitchen closes when the food runs out – usually by 10pm – so you come here aware of the quirks involved. Food is excellent, and chef Erik comes to your table personally, offering four meal options, usually including some type of fish or seafood creation. Vegetarians must book 24 hours in advance. Cash only.
RaicesSEAFOOD$$$
(%984-136-00-17; Beachfront; mains M$200-420; h11-8pm)
Don’t let the humble surrounds of this beachfront eatery put you off – this is some of the best seafood in town. The coconut lobster is definitely worth a look, and butter and garlic fish is mouthwatering. The seafood platter for two would easily feed a small army, and eating steps away from the lapping waves is priceless.
Note that they close the kitchen promptly and aren’t usually willing to stay open for latecomers.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Carioca’sBAR
(%984-234-23-32; h8pm-2am)
Located beachside just northeast of ‘downtown,’ this little palapa beach bar is a great chill-out spot. There’s a disco here from midnight Friday to Sunday, which runs until the wee hours if anyone’s there to enjoy it.
8Information
Holbox has no banks. There’s an ATM on the plaza above the police station, but it often runs out of money so bring lots of cash.
8Getting There & Around
Ferries run to Holbox from the port town of Chiquilá, usually from 5:30am to 9:30pm (M$90). It takes about 25 minutes to reach the island. Smaller, faster and wetter lanchas (motorboats) make the crossing after dark for M$1250.
Buses from the terminal in Cancún (M$86, 3½ hours) leave for Chiquilá at 7:50am, 10:10am and 12:50pm. Alternatively, you have the option of taking a taxi from Cancún for about US$100.
Private air charters with Flights Holbox (%984-136-88-52; www.flights-holbox.com; Holbox Airport) are surprisingly economical if you have a small group. Per plane (up to five passengers), a Cancún flight costs US$470. They also run to Playa (US$560), Tulum (US$675), Cozumel (US$631) and Mérida (US$1290).
If you’re driving, your vehicle will be safe in Chiquilá parking lots for M$50 per 24 hours. You won’t be allowed to bring a tourist car to the island. While technically a freight and car ferry runs to Holbox, nobody will allow you to board.
The good news is that you really won’t need a car there. Holbox’s sand streets are narrow and deeply rutted, and golf carts have become ubiquitous, buzzing noisily up and down like giant bumblebees. You can rent them easy enough, but consider using your walking shoes instead. Golf-cart taxis cost M$30 in town and M$80 out to Punta Coco.
Rentadora El Brother (%984-875-20-18; Av Tiburón Ballena s/n; cart per hour/day M$200/1000; h9am-5pm) rents out golf carts.
Puerto Morelos
%998 / Pop 9200
Halfway between Cancún and Playa del Carmen, Puerto Morelos retains its quiet, small-town feel despite the building boom north and south of town. While it offers enough restaurants and bars to keep you entertained by night, it’s really the shallow Caribbean waters that draw visitors here. Brilliantly contrasted stripes of bright green and dark blue separate the shore from the barrier reef – a tantalizing sight for divers and snorkelers – while inland a series of excellent cenotes beckon the adventurous. There’s a nice market just south of the plaza with a good selection of crafts and handmade hammocks that are much higher quality than ones you’ll find in Cancún or Playa.
1Sights
Crococun ZooZOO
(%998-850-37-19; www.crococunzoo.com; Hwy 307 Km 31; adult/child 6-12yr US$32/22; h9am-5pm)
About 23km south of the Cancún airport, this former crocodile farm now calls itself a conservationist zoo that protects some of the area’s endangered species. The price of admission includes a guided tour in which visitors are allowed to interact with some of the animals, such as white-tailed deer, boa constrictors, macaws, crocs and spider monkeys.
Jardín Botánico Dr Alfredo Barrera MarínGARDENS
(Jardín Botánico Yaax Che; %998-206-92-33; www.jardinbotanico.com; Hwy 307 Km 320; adult/child 3-10yr M$120/50; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat; c)
One of the largest botanical gardens in Mexico, this 65-hectare reserve has about 2km of trails and sections dedicated to epiphytes (orchids and bromeliads), palms, ferns, succulents (cacti and their relatives) and plants used in traditional Maya medicine. The garden also holds a large animal population, including the only coastal troops of spider monkeys left in the region.
2Activities
The barrier reef that runs along most of the coast of Quintana Roo is only 600m offshore here, providing both divers and snorkelers with views of sea turtles, sharks, stingrays, moray eels, lobsters and loads of colorful tropical fish. Several sunken ships make great wreck diving, and the dive centers have cenote trips as well.
AquanautsDIVING
(%998-206-93-65; www.aquanautsdiveadventures.com; Av Melgar s/n; 1-/2-tank reef dives US$70/90, snorkeling US$30-80; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Runs many interesting tours, including drift diving, cenote and shipwreck dives, and lionfish hunting. The dive shop is one block south of the plaza, in Hotel Hacienda Morelos.
CCourses
Little Mexican Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(%998-251-80-60; www.thelittlemexicancookingschool.com; Av Rojo Gómez 768, cnr Lázaro Cárdenas; per class US$128; h10am-3:30pm Tue & Thu)
Ever wonder how to cook delicious regional Mexican cuisine? Here’s your chance. During this six-hour course you’ll learn all about ingredients used in Mexican cooking and how to prepare at least seven dishes. See website to book a class; days sometimes vary.
4Sleeping & Eating
Casitas KinsolGUESTHOUSE$$
(%998-206-91-52; www.casitas-kinsol.com; Av Zetina Gazca Lote 18; r US$49; nW
#)
Great for people who want to see what life’s like on the other side of town (yes, there are signs of life west of the highway!), Kinsol offers eight palapa-style huts with beautiful design details such as Talavera tile sinks and handcrafted furnishings. It’s a peaceful spot where even the dogs and cats get along. It’s 3km west of town.
A resident tortoise wanders around in the verdant garden.
Posada AmorHOTEL$$
(%998-871-00-33; Av Rojo Gómez s/n; d M$800; naW)
About 100m southwest of the plaza, Posada Amor has been in operation for many years. The simple white-walled rooms have some creative touches. There’s a shady back area with tables and plenty of plants, the restaurant offers good meals, and there’s a friendly expat bar.
oPosada El MoroHOTEL$$$
(%998-871-01-59; www.hotelelmoro.mx; Av Rojo Gómez s/n; r incl breakfast US$92, ste US$125; pnaWs)
A well-run property, with cheery geraniums in the halls and courtyard. Some rooms have kitchenettes, all have couches that fold out into futons, and there’s a small pool in a tropical garden. Prices drop substantially in low season or on their webpage (not the booking megasites). It’s northwest of the plaza.
Casa CaribeB&B$$$
(%998-251-80-60; www.casacaribepuertomorelos.com; Av Rojo Goméz 768; r incl breakfast US$185; naW)
Just follow your nose to Casa Caribe, an elegantly decorated B&B that shares its lovely grounds with the Little Mexican Cooking School. Rooms have sweeping beach views from private balconies, and though only one comes with air-con, all five get fantastic sea breezes. Breakfast is a creation of the culinary school, so you know it will be good. There’s a three-night minimum stay.
El NichoBREAKFAST$$
(www.elnicho.com.mx; cnr Avs Tulum & Rojo Gómez; breakfast M$65-125, lunch M$90-190; h7am-2pm Fri-Wed; Wv)
Puerto Morelos’ best and most popular breakfast spot, El Nicho serves organic egg dishes, eggs Benedict, chilaquiles (fried tortilla strips in salsa) with chicken, and organic coffee from Chiapas. Vegetarians will find many good options here.
oJohn Gray’s KitchenINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%998-871-06-65; www.facebook.com/johngrayskitchen; Av Niños Héroes 6; breakfast M$65-100, dinner M$270-450; h8am-10pm Tue-Sat, from 5pm Mon)
One block west and two blocks north of the plaza, this ‘kitchen’ turns out some truly fabulous food. The chef’s specialty, though not listed on the regularly changing menu, is the duck in chipotle, tequila and honey sauce. It opens for breakfast, too.
oAl ChimichurriSTEAK$$$
(%998-241-82-20; http://alchimichurri.restaurantwebx.com; Av Rojo Gómez s/n; mains M$155-340; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
You definitely can’t go wrong with the fresh pasta and wood-fired pizza here, but this Uruguayan grill is best known for its steaks. The star cuts are a Flintstones-size rib eye, tender flank steak and filet mignon in homemade beef gravy. It’s just south of the plaza.
7Shopping
oArtisans MarketARTS & CRAFTS
(Av Rojo Gómez s/n; h9am-8pm)
The hammocks sold here differ from what you’ll find elsewhere because they’re created right here in Puerto Morelos by a local family that’s been making them for decades. (Ask for Mauricio!) You can also buy dream catchers, alebrijes (colorful, hand-carved wooden animals from San Martín Tilcajete), handbags, masks, jewelry and more.
8Getting There & Away
Playa Express and ADO buses that travel between Cancún and Playa del Carmen drop you on the highway. Buses and Playa Express vans from Cancún’s ADO terminal cost M$28. If you’re arriving at the Cancún airport, there are bus departures from there to Puerto Morelos for M$104. They run frequently from 7am to 10pm daily. Going to Cancún or Playa costs M$28.
Taxis are usually waiting at the turnoff to shuttle people into town; cabs parked at the plaza will take you back to the highway. Some drivers will tell you the fare is per person or overcharge in some other manner; strive for M$30 for the 2km ride, for as many people as you can stuff in.
RIVIERA THEME PARKS
Always a big hit with children, there are several theme parks between Cancún and Tulum, many of which have fantastic scenery – truly some of the most beautiful lagoons, cenotes and natural areas on the coast. Sure, some will find these places too cheesy, but the kids couldn’t care less.
It’s worth mentioning that some parks offer an optional swim with dolphins activity, and though it may seem like a lovely idea, animal welfare groups suggest interaction with dolphins and other sea mammals held in captivity creates stress for these creatures.
Here are some of the most popular parks.
Aktun Chen (%800-099-07-58, 984-806-49-62; www.aktun-chen.com; Hwy 307 Km 107; full tour incl lunch adult/child US$128/102; h9:30am-5:30pm; c) Forty kilometers south of Playa del Carmen, this small park features a 585m-long cave, a 12m-deep cenote, 10 zip-lines and a small zoo.
Xplor (%984-803-44-03; www.xplor.travel; adult/child 5-11yr all-inclusive US$119/59.50; h9am-5pm; c) This large park 6km south of Playa del Carmen features circuits that take you zip-lining, rafting, driving amphibious jeeps, swimming in an underground river and hiking through caverns.
Xel-Há (%998-883-05-24, 984-803-44-03, USA/Canada 855-326-2696; www.xelha.com; Hwy Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km 240; adult/child 5-11yr from US$89/44.50; h9am-6pm; c) Billing itself as a natural outdoor aquarium, it’s built around an inlet 13km north of Tulum. There are lots of water-based activities on offer, including a river tour and snorkeling.
Xcaret (%984-206-00-38; www.xcaret.com; Hwy Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km 282; adult/child 5-12yr from US$188/94; h8:30am-10:30pm; c) One of the originals in the area, with loads of nature-based activities and stuff for grown-ups like a Mexican wine cellar and day spa. It’s 6km south of Playa del Carmen.
Selvática (%800-365-7446, 998-881-30-30; www.selvatica.com.mx; Ruta de los Cenotes Km 19; adult/child 8-11yr US$199/99; htour 9am, 10:30am, noon & 1:30pm; c) Inland from Puerto Morelos, this adventure outfit only runs prearranged tours. Come for adrenaline-pumping zip-lining, swimming in a cenote and more. Check the website for age restrictions for each tour.
Playa del Carmen
%984 / Pop 150,000
Playa del Carmen, now the third-largest city in Quintana Roo, ranks up there with Tulum as one of the Riviera’s trendiest cities. Sitting coolly on the lee side of Cozumel, the town’s beaches are jammed with super-fit Europeans. The waters aren’t as clear as those of Cancún or Cozumel, and the beach sands aren’t quite as champagne-powder-perfect as they are further north, but still Playa (as it’s locally known) grows and grows.
The town is ideally located: close to Cancún’s international airport, but far enough south to allow easy access to Cozumel, Tulum, Cobá and other worthy destinations. The reefs here are excellent, and offer diving and snorkeling close by. Look for rays, moray eels, sea turtles and a huge variety of corals. The lavender sea fans make for very picturesque vistas.
A cruise ship destination, Playa can feel pretty crowded, but that’s usually only in the hotel zone.
1Sights & Activities
Playa del Carmen is primarily known for its beaches and outdoor party life, but there are a few spots worth checking out on rainy days.
AquariumAQUARIUM
(map El Acuario de Playa del Carmen; %998-287-53-13, 984-873-38-59; www.elacuariodeplaya.com; Calle 14 Norte 148; M$233; h11am-7pm)
An impressive aquarium with lots of exhibits, information and activities. One of the few options in Playa for non-beach days.
Beaches
Avid beachgoers won’t be disappointed here. Playa’s lovely white-sand beaches are much more accessible than Cancún’s: just head down to the ocean, stretch out and enjoy. Numerous restaurants front the beach in the tourist zone and many hotels in the area offer an array of water-sport activities.
If crowds aren’t your thing, go north of Calle 38, where a few scrawny palms serve for shade. Here the beach extends for uncrowded kilometers, making for good camping, but you need to be extra careful with your belongings, as thefts are a possibility.
Some women go topless in Playa (though it’s not a common practice in most of Mexico, and is generally frowned upon by locals – except the young, of course). Mamita’s Beach, north of Calle 28, is considered the best place to let loose.
About 3km south of the ferry terminal, past a group of all-inclusives, you’ll find a refreshingly quiet stretch of beach that sees relatively few visitors. Going even further north will get you to remoter areas too.
Diving & Snorkeling
In addition to great ocean diving, many outfits offer cenote dives. Prices are similar at most shops: two-tank dives (US$85), cenote dives (US$175), snorkeling (US$30), whale-shark tour (US$350) and open-water certification (US$450).
Phocea MexicoDIVING
(map Google map %984-873-12-10; www.phocea-mexico.com; Calle 10 s/n; 2-tank dive US$89; h8am-6pm)
French, English and Spanish are spoken at Phocea Mexico. The shop does dives with bull sharks (US$90) from November to March.
CCourses & Tours
International HouseLANGUAGE
(map Google map %984-803-33-88; www.ihrivieramaya.com; Calle 14 No 141; per week US$230)
Offers 20 hours of Spanish classes per week. You can stay in residence-hall rooms (US$36), even if you’re not taking classes, but the best way to learn a language is to take advantage of the school’s homestays (including breakfast, US$33 to US$39) with Mexican host families.
Río SecretoADVENTURE
(%998-113-19-05; www.riosecreto.com; Carretera 307 Km 283.5; adult/child 6-11yr US$79/40; h9am-6pm)
Hike and swim through a 600m-long underground cavern 5km south of Playa del Carmen. Some aspects are hyped, but there is a lot that is just plain awesome.
4Sleeping
Enjoy Playa HostelHOSTEL$
(map %984-147-77-76; www.enjoyplayahostel.com; Calle 4, btwn Av 15 & 20; dm M$250-300, d M$1200; naWs)
A welcoming and convenient hostel that’s very close to the beach, the bus station and the tourist zone. While the dorm rooms are a bit dark, they have outlets for charging phones and lockers for secure storage. A rooftop terrace area offers a place to meet people, though you might also find people in the lobby downstairs.
Hostel PlayaHOSTEL$
(map Google map %984-803-32-77; www.hostelplaya.com; Calle 8 s/n; dm/d/tr incl breakfast M$200/490/735; pnW)
Though temporarily closed at the time of research, this place was made for mingling with its central common area, a cool garden spot and a rooftop terrace. In a town where new hostels pop up overnight, this one has been around since 2002. Hopefully it will reopen soon.
oHotel Playa del KarmaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map %984-803-02-72; www.hotelplayadelkarma.com; 15 Av, btwn Calles 12 & 14; d M$1050-1250; naWs)
The closest you’re going to get to the jungle in this town; rooms here face a lush courtyard with a small – no, make that tiny – pool. All rooms have air-con and TV, and some come with kitchenette, sitting area and sweet little porches with hammocks. The hotel arranges tours to nearby ruins and diving sites.
Grand VelasRESORT$$$
(%322-226-86-89, 800-831-11-65; www.rivieramaya.grandvelas.com; Hwy 307 Km 62; d all-inclusive from US$894; pnaWs)
The mother of all beach resorts, the sprawling Grand Velas boasts one of the best spas on the coast; an azure, free-form infinity pool; marble-floored rooms that put other so-called luxury accommodations to shame; loads of activities for kids and grown-ups; and the list goes on. It’s 6km north of Playa del Carmen.
Petit LafitteRESORT$$$
(%984-877-40-00; www.petitlafitte.com; Carretera Cancún-Chetumal Km 296; d/bungalow incl breakfast & dinner from US$294/357, child 3-11yr additional US$60; pnaWs)
Occupying quiet Playa Xcalacoco, 6km north of Playa del Carmen, Petit Lafitte is an excellent family vacation spot. Stay in a room or a ‘bungalow’ (essentially a wood cabin with tasteful rustic furnishings, some of which sleep up to five guests). Kids stay entertained with the large pool, small animal shelter/pen, games room and various water activities. See website for directions.
5Eating
For cheap eats, head away from the tourist center, or try the small market (map Google map Av 10 s/n, btwn Calles 6 & 8; mains M$30-80; h7:30am-11pm) for some homestyle regional cooking.
Kaxapa FactorySOUTH AMERICAN$
(map Google map %984-803-50-23; www.kaxapafactory.com; Calle 10 s/n; mains M$65-125; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun; Wv)
The specialty at this Venezuelan restaurant on the park is arepa, a delicious corn flatbread stuffed with your choice of shredded beef, chicken or beans and plantains. There are many vegetarian and gluten-free options here and the refreshing fresh-made juices go nicely with just about everything on the menu.
Don SirloinMEXICAN$
(map Google map %984-148-04-24; www.donsirloin.com; 10 Av s/n; tacos M$14-65; h2pm-6am; W)
Al pastor (marinated pork) and sirloin beef are sliced right off the spit at this popular late-night taco joint, which now has three branches in Playa.
Chez CélineBREAKFAST$
(%984-803-3480; cnr 5 Av & Calle 34; breakfast $66-109; h7:30am-11pm; aW)
Good, healthy breakfasts and a range of yummy baked goods are what keeps this French-run bakery-cafe busy.
100% NaturalVEGETARIAN$$
(map Google map Cien Por Ciento Natural; %984-873-22-42; www.100natural.com; Quinta Av s/n, cnr Calle 10; mains M$86-286; h7am-11pm; Wv)
The trademark offerings of this quickly establishing chain – vegetable- and fruit-juice blends, salads, various vegetable and chicken dishes and other healthy foods – are delicious and filling. The Zona Hotelera location is in a jungle- and tiki-hut-type setting.
La FamigliaITALIAN$$$
(map Google map %984-803-53-50; www.facebook.com/lafamigliapdc; 10 Av s/n cnr Calle 10; mains M$130-390; h3-11pm Tue-Sat, from 5pm Sun; W)
Pay a visit to the family and enjoy superb wood-fired pizza and handmade pasta, ravioli and gnocchi. Playa is a magnet for Italian restaurants, but this definitely ranks among the best of them.
6Drinking & Nightlife
You’ll find everything from mellow, tranced-out lounge bars to thumping beachfront discos here. The party generally starts on Quinta Avenida then heads down toward the beach on Calle 12.
oDirty Martini LoungeBAR
(map www.facebook.com/dirtymartinilounge; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
The Dirty Martini Lounge doesn’t have a foam machine, there’s no mechanical bull and there’s minimal nudity – a refreshing change for crazy Playa. The decor is something you’d find in the American West, with comfy cowhide upholstery and brown wood panels, and it’s a place where you can sip something tasty while actually hearing yourself think.
La Bodeguita del MedioDANCING
(%984-803-39-51; www.labodeguitadelmedio.com.mx; Quinta Av s/n; h12:30pm-2am; W)
The writing is literally on the walls (and on the lampshades, and pretty much everywhere) at this Cuban restaurant-bar. After a few mojitos you’ll be dancing the night away to live cubana music. Get here at 7:30pm for free salsa lessons.
Playa 69GAY
(map Google map www.facebook.com/sesentaynueveplaya; off Quinta Av, btwn Calles 4 & 6; cover after 11pm M$60; h9pm-5am Wed-Sun)
This popular gay dance club proudly features foreign strippers from such far-flung places as Australia and Brazil, and it stages weekend drag-queen shows. It may also open Tuesdays at key vacation times, such as the holidays. Find it at the end of the narrow alley.
3Entertainment
oFusionLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map %984-803-54-77; Calle 6 s/n; h7am-1am)
This beachside bar and grill stages live music, such as belly dancing or even fire-dancing shows. The schedule varies, but it’s always later in the evening (around 11pm) and always fun. Earlier, it’s just a pretty spot to have a beer or cocktail and listen to the waves.
8Information
A Tourist Information Kiosk (Plaza Mayor; h9am-5pm) Get basic tourist info and maps here.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
Ferries depart frequently to Cozumel from Calle 1 Sur, where you’ll find three companies with ticket booths. Barcos Caribe is the cheapest of the bunch. Prices are subject to change. Transcaribe, south of Playa, runs car ferries to Cozumel.
A Barcos Caribe (map %987-869-20-79; www.barcoscaribe.com; one-way fare adult/child 5-12yr M$135/70; h6:45am-11pm)
A Mexico Waterjets (map %984-879-31-12; www.mexicowaterjets.com; one-way fare adult/child 6-11yr M$162/96; h9am-9pm) Price promotions can bring fares down to M$69 for all travelers.
A Transcaribe (%987-872-76-71; www.transcaribe.net; Hwy 307 Km 282, Calica-Punta Venado; one-way fare M$1000) Runs daily ferries to Cozumel if you want to cross with your vehicle. One-way fare includes passengers. The terminal is 7km south of Playa del Carmen.
A Ultramar (map %984-803-55-81, 998-293-90-92; www.ultramarferry.com/en; one-way fare adult/child 6-11yr M$163/97; h6:45am-11pm) The most spiffy of the ferries, and claims to be the least prone to seasickness due to extra stabilizers. Also offers a 1st-class option with a lounge, more room, priority boarding and leather seats.
BUS
Playa has two bus terminals; each sells tickets and provides information for at least some of the other’s departures. You can save money by buying a 2nd-class bus ticket, but remember that it’s often stop-and-go along the way. A taxi from Terminal ADO to the Plaza Mayor costs about M$30.
Playa Express shuttle buses are a much quicker way to get around the Riviera Maya, or to Cancún.
The Terminal ADO (www.ado.com.mx; 20 Av s/n, cnr Calle 12) is where most 1st-class bus lines arrive and depart.
All 2nd-class bus lines (including Mayab) are serviced at the old bus station, Terminal del Centro (Quinta Av s/n, cnr Av Juárez).
Playa Express (Calle 2 Norte) offers quick, frequent service to Puerto Morelos for M$25 and downtown Cancún for M$38 .
BUSES FROM PLAYA DEL CARMEN
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cancún | 38-68 | 1¼ | frequent |
| Cancún international airport | 178 | 1 | frequent |
| Chetumal | 250-346 | 4¼-5 | frequent |
| Chichén Itzá | 155-314 | 4 | 7:30am (2nd class), 8am (1st class), 2:30pm (2nd class) |
| Cobá | 92-142 | 2 | 11 (1st & 2nd class) |
| Mérida | 258-464 | 4¼-5¾ | frequent |
| Palenque | 634-934 | 11½-12 | 3 |
| San Cristóbal de las Casas | 836-1158 | 17-17½ | 3 |
| Tulum | 45-74 | 1 | frequent |
| Valladolid | 132-216 | 2¾ | 6 |
COLECTIVO
Colectivos (Calle 2, cnr 20 Av; h4am-midnight) are a great option for cheap travel southward to Tulum and north to Cancún. They depart as soon as they fill (about every 15 minutes) and will stop anywhere along the highway between Playa and Tulum, charging M$45. Luggage space is somewhat limited, but they’re great for day trips. From the same spot, you can grab a colectivo to Cancún (M$38).