San Miguel de Allende
%415 / Pop 73,000 / Elev 1900m
With its gorgeous colonial architecture, enchanting cobblestone streets and striking light, San Miguel de Allende is rightly one of Mexico’s biggest draws and has been popular with aesthetes and romantics for much of the past century. This includes a large population of Americans who either live full time in the town or maintain winter homes here, bringing with them a cosmopolitan atmosphere you’ll find in few other Mexican towns.
With superb restaurants and high-class accommodations, numerous galleries stocked with quality Mexican artesanías (handicrafts), a fantastic spring-like climate and a surfeit of cultural activities including regular festivals, fireworks and parades, San Miguel is an unmissable highlight for anyone visiting the northern central highlands. The entire ensemble was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008, and despite receiving huge numbers of visitors, San Miguel absorbs them well and locals mix warmly with their foreign guests and residents.
History
The town, so the story goes, owes its founding to a few overheated dogs. These hounds were loved by a Franciscan friar, Juan de San Miguel, who started a mission in 1542 near an often-dry river 5km from the present town. One day the dogs wandered off from the mission; they were found reclining at the spring called El Chorro map Google map. The mission was moved to this superior site.
San Miguel was then central Mexico’s most northern Spanish settlement. Tarascan and Tlaxcalan allies of the Spanish were brought to help pacify the local Otomí and Chichimecs. San Miguel was barely surviving the fierce Chichimec resistance, until in 1555 a Spanish garrison was established to protect the new road from Mexico City to the silver center of Zacatecas. Spanish ranchers settled in the area and it grew into a thriving commercial center and home to some of Guanajuato’s wealthy silver barons.
San Miguel’s favorite son, Ignacio Allende, was born here in 1779. He became a fervent believer in the need for Mexican independence and was a leader of a Querétaro-based conspiracy that set December 8, 1810, as the date for an armed uprising. When the plan was discovered by the authorities in Querétaro on September 13, a messenger rushed to San Miguel and gave the news to Juan de Aldama, another conspirator. Aldama sped north to Dolores where, in the early hours of September 16, he found Allende at the house of the priest Miguel Hidalgo, also one of the coterie. A few hours later Hidalgo proclaimed rebellion from his church. After initial successes Allende, Hidalgo and other rebel leaders were captured in 1811 in Chihuahua. Allende was executed, but on independence in 1821 he was recognized as a martyr and in 1826 the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende.
The Escuela de Bellas Artes was founded in 1938 and the town started to take on its current character when David Alfaro Siqueiros began mural-painting courses that attracted artists of every persuasion. The Instituto Allende opened in 1951, also attracting foreign students. Many were US war veterans (who could settle here under the GI Bill); an influx of artists has continued ever since.
1Sights
Parque Benito JuárezPARK
(map Google map 
c)
The shady Parque Benito Juárez is a lovely place to relax and meander through, with benches, well-maintained pathways and a popular play area for children.
La Esquina: Museo del Juguete Popular MexicanoMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museolaesquina.org.mx; Núñez 40; adult/child M$50/20; 
h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; c)
This bright, modern museum is a must-visit for all kids, big or small. The toy collection of museum owner Angélica Tijerina has taken over half a century to amass and aims to preserve and continue various traditions by showcasing pieces from different regions of Mexico. The exhibits – divided into four main themed areas – are made of a range of materials, from wheat to plastic, and wood to fabric.
Oratorio de San Felipe NeriCHURCH
(map Google map Plaza Cívica)
Located near the east end of Insurgentes, this multitowered and domed church dates from the 18th century. The pale-pink main facade is baroque with an indigenous influence. A passage to the right of this facade leads to the east wall, where a doorway holds the image of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude). You can see into the cloister from this side of the church.
Inside the church are 33 oil paintings showing scenes from the life of San Felipe Neri, the 16th-century Florentine who founded the Oratorio Catholic order. In the east transept is a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe by leading colonial painter Miguel Cabrera. In the west transept is a lavishly decorated 1735 chapel, the Santa Casa de Loreto, a replica of a chapel in Loreto, Italy, legendary home of the Virgin Mary. Although rarely open, the camarín (chapel behind the main church) has six elaborately gilded baroque altars. In one is a reclining wax figure of San Columbano; it supposedly contains the saint’s bones.
Jardín Botánico El Charco del IngenioGARDENS
(%415-154-47-15; www.elcharco.org.mx; off Antiguo Camino Real a Querétaro; M$40; h9am-6pm)
San Miguel’s excellent 88-hectare botanical garden is also a wildlife and bird sanctuary. Pathways head through wetlands and magnificent areas of cacti and native plants. The deep canyon at the bottom boasts the eponymous freshwater spring, El Charco del Ingenio. Don’t miss the Conservatory of Mexican Plants, which houses a wonderful array of cacti and succulent species. Two-hour tours (in English) depart every Tuesday and Thursday at 10am (M$80).
The garden is 1.5km northeast of town and each Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday a complimentary bus service leaves Calles Mesones in front of Plaza Cívica at 9:30am, returning at 1pm. Alternatively, a 2km vehicle track leads north from the Soriana shopping center, 2.5km southeast of the center on the Querétaro road. This can be reached on ‘Soriana’ buses from the bus stop from Mesones, near Plaza Cívica (10 minutes, M$5). A taxi to the gardens from the center costs from around M$50 to M$60.
Parroquia de San Miguel ArcángelCHURCH
San Miguel’s most famous sight is its parish church, characterized by its pink ‘wedding cake’ towers that soar above the town. These strange pinnacles were designed by indigenous stonemason Zeferino Gutiérrez in the late 19th century. He reputedly based the design on a postcard of a Belgian church and instructed builders by scratching plans in the sand with a stick. The rest of the church dates from the late 17th century.
Biblioteca PúblicaNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map %415-152-02-93; Insurgentes 25; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
As well as housing one of the largest collections of books and magazines in English in Latin America, this excellent public library functions as a cultural center. It’s also the editorial offices of the weekly English-Spanish Atención San Miguel newspaper and has an on-site cafe that provides a pleasant spot from which to view the cultural action. The tiny Teatro Santa Ana (map Google map %415-152-02-93; Reloj 50A; tickets M$40-250) also hosts talks and performances.
Escuela de Bellas ArtesGALLERY
(map Google map School of Fine Arts, Centro Cultural Nigromante; %415-152-02-89; Hernández Macías 75; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
This former monastery was converted into a fine-arts school in 1938. Don’t miss the murals of Pedro Martínez, plus the Siqueiros Room, which features the extraordinary unfinished mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros in the far corner of the complex. The rest of the gallery holds temporary exhibitions from local artists, many of whom graduated from the school.
MiradorVIEWPOINT
One of the best views over the town and surrounding country is from the mirador southeast of town.
Museo Histórico de San Miguel de AllendeMUSEUM
(map Google map Museo Casa de Allende; Cuna de Allende 1; M$50, free Sun; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
This is the house where Mexican independence hero Ignacio Allende was born in 1769, a fact that draws a steady stream of Mexican pilgrims year-round. The building is also home to the town’s history museum, which relates the interesting history of the San Miguel area alongside reproductions of the Allende family’s furnishings and possessions, though all signage is in Spanish only.
Other Face of Mexico GalleryMUSEUM
(map Google map %415-154-43-24; www.casadelacuesta.com; Casa de la Cuesta, Cuesta de San José 32; M$50)
This fascinating private collection of more than 500 masks provides an excellent context to the Mexican mask tradition. It is open by appointment only. The admission fee goes to charity.
Instituto AllendeHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map Ancha de San Antonio 20)
This large 1736 complex, originally the home of the aristocratic De La Canal family, was later used as a Carmelite convent, eventually becoming an art and language school in 1951. These days it’s split into two – one area of gardens and an old chapel is used for functions, the other for courses. Above the main entrance is a carving of the Virgin of Loreto, patroness of the De La Canal family, while inside an impressive mural depicts the history of Mexico.
Templo de la SaludCHURCH
(map Google map Plaza Cívica)
With its blue and yellow tiled dome and a big shell carved above its entrance, this church is just east of San Felipe Neri. The facade is early Churrigueresque. The church’s paintings include one of San Javier by Miguel Cabrera. San Javier (St Francis Xavier; 1506–52) was a founding member of the Jesuits. It was once part of the Colegio de Sales.
Templo de la ConcepciónCHURCH
(map Google map Church of the Conception; cnr Zacateros & Canal)
A splendid church with a fine altar and several magnificent old oil paintings. Painted on the interior doorway are a number of wise sayings to give pause to those entering. The church was begun in the mid-18th century; its dome, added in the late 19th century by the versatile Zeferino Gutiérrez, was possibly inspired by pictures of Les Invalides in Paris.
Capilla de la Tercera OrdenCHAPEL
(map Google map Chapel of the Third Order; cnr San Francisco & Juárez)
Built in the early 18th century, this chapel, like the Templo de San Francisco (map Google map cnr San Francisco & Juárez), was part of a Franciscan monastery complex. The main facade shows St Francis and symbols of the Franciscan order.
Colegio de SalesNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map Plaza Cívica; h8am-2pm & 5-8pm)
Once a college founded in the mid-18th century by the San Felipe Neri order, the Colegio de Sales has regained its educational status; it currently houses part of the University of León. Many of the 1810 revolutionaries were educated here, while later Spanish nobles were locked up here when the rebels took San Miguel.
WORTH A TRIP
CAñADA DE LA VIRGEN
Cañada de la Virgen is an intriguing pre-Hispanic pyramid complex and former ritual and ceremonial location, dating from around AD 300 and in use until around 1050. Bones, believed to be from sacrificial ceremonies, and remnants were discovered here. The most interesting aspects include the alignment of the main temple to the planets, and the design of the site, which reflects the surrounding landscape.
The site (M$50; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun) is around 25km southeast of San Miguel: possibly the easiest and most rewarding visit for non-Spanish speakers is to take a tour with Coyote Canyon Adventures (map %415-154-41-93; www.coyotecanyonadventures.com; rides per person half-/full-day from M$1550/2450, 4-person minimum). The guides include archaeologists and anthropologists who discuss the site’s fascinating cultural and historical context. A shuttle bus is the compulsory transportation for visitors at the site. It runs between the office and the ruins (several kilometers away); these depart on the hour between 10am and 4pm and cost M$30. The tours are in Spanish. Wear sensible shoes as you’ll be walking on cobbled surfaces and steep steps.
2Activities
Balnearios
Balneario Santa VeronicaSWIMMING
(%415-109-63-73; Carretera San Miguel de Allende–Dolores Hidalgo Km 5.5; M$30; h10am-6pm Fri-Sun)
This is one of the easiest of the hot springs to reach as it’s right on the main road. A lovely old hacienda with an enormous swimming pool and two hot-spring-fed baths, Santa Veronica has definitely seen better days, but it’s wonderfully relaxed, you’re welcome to bring your own food and drinks and, yes, swig beer in the pool.
Balneario XoteSWIMMING
(%415-155-83-30; www.xoteparqueacuatico.com.mx; adult/child M$100/50; h9am-6pm; c)
The family-oriented Balneario Xote water park is 3.5km off the highway down a cobblestone road. It’s a great place to go with kids, as it has multiple areas for children and several waterslides and pools.
La GrutaSWIMMING
(%415-185-21-62; www.lagruta-spa.com; Carretera Dolores Hidalogo–San Miguel de Allende Km 10; M$150; h7am-5pm)
Upmarket La Gruta is justifiably a local and tourist favorite; it has three small pools where a thermal spring is channeled. The hottest is in a cave entered through a 27m tunnel, with water gushing from the roof, lit by a single shaft of sunlight. It also offers quality spa treatments and has a good restaurant.
Escondido PlaceSWIMMING
(%415-185-20-22; www.escondidoplace.com; Carretera San Miguel de Allende–Dolores Hidalgo Km 10; M$150; h8am-5:30pm)
Escondido Place has seven small outdoor pools and three connected indoor pools, each progressively hotter. The picturesque grounds have plenty of picnicking space and there’s a kiosk for drinks and snacks.
CCourses
Several institutions offer Spanish courses, with group or private lessons and optional classes in Mexican culture and history. Most private lessons cost around US$20 an hour; group and long-term rates are much lower. Homestays with Mexican families, including a private room and three daily meals, cost around US$35 per day. Cooking courses are also very popular here.
La Piña Azul Escuela de CocinaCOOKING
(www.kirstenwest.blogspot.de; Orizaba 39A; class per person US$75)
Kirsten West, former private chef to Mick Jagger and a world expert on Mexican cuisine, opened her own Mexican cookery school in 2016. The lessons – where you won’t actually be cooking yourself – focus on indigenous and traditional Mexican dishes. Classes require a minimum of four participants and are taught in English.
El Liceo de la Lengua EspañolaLANGUAGE
(map Google map %415-121-25-35; www.liceodelalengua.com; Callejón del Pueblito 5)
A small, centrally located and extremely professional Spanish school, where classes never exceed five pupils.
Academia Hispano AmericanaLANGUAGE
(map Google map %415-152-03-49; www.academiahispanoamericana.com; Mesones 4)
Housed in a beautiful colonial building, this place runs quality immersion courses in the Spanish language and incorporates history classes.
Warren Hardy SpanishLANGUAGE
(map Google map %415-154-40-17; www.warrenhardy.com; San Rafael 6)
An American-run school offering Spanish instruction including its own range of printed learning materials, Warren Hardy Spanish is a favorite among local expats of a mature age.
WORTH A TRIP
SANCTUARIO DE ATOTONILCO
Known as Mexico’s Sistine Chapel, this vitally important church (Calle Principal, Atotonilco) in the hamlet of Atotonilco, 11km north of San Miguel, is defined by its connection to the independence struggle, which has made it an important icon for Mexicans. Nationalist hero Ignacio Allende married here in 1802, and eight years later he returned with Miguel Hidalgo and a band of independence rebels en route from Dolores to San Miguel to take the shrine’s banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe as their flag.
A journey to Atotonilco is the goal of pilgrims and penitents from all over Mexico, and the starting point of an important and solemn procession two weekends before Easter. Participants carry the image of the Señor de la Columna to the church of San Juan de Dios in San Miguel. Inside, the sanctuary has six chapels and is vibrant with statues, folk murals and paintings. Traditional dances are held here on the third Sunday in July. The church was named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008.
From San Miguel, taxis charge around M$120 to M$150 for a one-way trip. Local buses signed ‘Atotonilco’ or ‘Cruz del Palmar’ depart from Calzada de La Luz every hour on the half hour (M$10, 45 minutes).
TTours
oBookatourTOURS
(map Google map %415-152-01-98; www.bookatour.mx; Codo 1; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sun)
Offers a range of walking tours with bilingual guides, including illuminating three-hour strolls around San Miguel (US$40), arts and crafts tours (US$120), cantina ‘crawls’ (US$35 per person) and hot-air-balloon rides (US$175 per person). Prices are the same for up to three people and include transportation. Also offers rental cars, the only place in San Miguel to do so.
oBici-BurroCYCLING
(map Google map %415-152-15-26; www.bici-burro.com; Hospicio 1; trips US$70-120)
Friendly and professional, English-speaking owner Alberto conducts 11 different guided mountain-bike tours for groups of two or more. Popular trips include six- or seven-hour excursions to Atotonilco or Mineral de Pozos and a wonderful ‘mezcal tour’ that takes in a number of haciendas. Bike rental is also available (US$45 per day), as are hiking tours.
Historical Walking Tour of San Miguel de AllendeWALKING
(map Google map %415-152-77-96; www.historicalwalkingtour.org; Jardín Allende; M$300)
This excellent tour takes place every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 10am, departing from El Jardín. Tickets go on sale at 9:45am; be sure to allow good time as tours leave promptly. The English-speaking volunteer guides provide a fascinating historical, architectural and cultural commentary on the town’s sights. Specialized architecture and private tours are also available.
Xotolar Ranch AdventuresHORSEBACK RIDING
(%415-154-62-75; www.xotolarranch.com; rides from US$95)
Xotolar Ranch Adventures, based on a working ranch, specializes in canyon trail rides, which can be booked as half- or full-day excursions. One tour involves riding to the pyramid of Cañada de la Virgen (US$145 per person).
zFestivals & Events
San Miguel boasts a surfeit of churches (over 40) and patron saints (it has six) and enjoys a multitude of festivals, many imbued with strong spiritual themes. You’ll probably be alerted to a festival event by firework bursts, while parades seem to be an almost weekly occurrence. For a full list, check with the tourist office or its website: www.visitsanmiguel.travel.
Semana SantaRELIGIOUS
(hMar/Apr)
A week of religious activities. Two Sundays before Easter, pilgrims carry an image of the Señor de la Columna from Atotonilco, 11km north, to San Miguel’s church of San Juan de Dios, departing at midnight on Saturday. During Semana Santa, activities include the solemn Procesión del Santo Entierro on Good Friday and the burning or exploding of Judas effigies on Easter Day.
Fiesta de la Santa CruzFIESTA
(hlate May)
This deeply spiritual spring festival has its roots in the 16th century. It happens at Valle del Maíz, 2km from the town center. Oxen are dressed in lime necklaces and painted tortillas and their yokes are festooned with flowers and fruit. A mock battle between ‘Indians’ and ‘Federales’ follows. There are mojigangas (giant puppets), dancing and musicians, plus 96 hours of fireworks.
Fiesta de los LocosRELIGIOUS
(hmid-Jun)
Part of the Festividad de San Antonio de Padua in mid-June, the ‘festival of the crazies’ is a colorful Carnavalesque parade through town with floats, blaring music and costumed dancers throwing out candy to – sometimes at! – the crowd. It takes place on the first Sunday after June 13.
San Miguel ArcángelRELIGIOUS
(Jardín Allende; hSep)
Celebrations honoring the town’s chief patron saint are held around the weekend following September 29. The party is celebrated with an alborada, an artificial dawn created by thousands of fireworks around the cathedral, and turns into an all-night festivity with extraordinary pre-Hispanic dances.
Guanajuato International Film FestivalFILM
(GIFF; www.giff.mx; hJul)
Shared with the city of Guanajuato, this short-film festival in July was founded with the intention of promoting homegrown cinema production, something it’s done to great acclaim. Events include Cine entre Muertos, where horror films are screened in graveyards.
4Sleeping
Accommodations are often full during festivals and high season, so make reservations well in advance. Thanks to a couple of recent hostel additions, the city now boasts accommodations for all budgets. In the higher budget ranges, San Miguel has some of Mexico’s best luxury B&Bs, boutique hotels and guesthouses.
Hostal Punto 79HOSTEL$
(map Google map %415-121-10-34; www.punto79.com; Mesones 79; dm M$180-210, r from M$780; 
W)
This centrally located sprawling spot touts itself as a hotel-hostel, but the hostel rooms are far better value. The dorm rooms are segregated for male and female guests and are a decent place to bed down, especially if you’re on a budget. There are few facilities (and no breakfast), but you’re bang in the middle of town.
Hostal AlcatrazHOSTEL$
(map Google map %415-152-85-43; www.facebook.com/alcatrazhostal; Reloj 54; dm incl breakfast from M$235; W)
This centrally located hostel has simple but perfectly serviceable dorms and a shared kitchen, even if it is a bit short on bathrooms. The included breakfast is excellent.
Hostel InnHOSTEL$
(map Google map %415-154-67-27; www.hostelinnmx.com; Calzada de La Luz 31A; dm M$180-250, s M$580, r without bathroom M$550-750, all incl breakfast; W)
This functional converted house offers dorms and simple fan-cooled private rooms, a kitchen for guests to use, cheap laundry services and a small back garden with grassy lawns and a pleasant common area. It’s on a busy main road, but most of the rooms don’t look over the street.
Casa CarlyAPARTMENT$$
(map %415-152-89-00; www.casacarly.com; Calzada de la Aurora 48; s/d/q incl breakfast M$1200/1600/1800; hJul-May; 
aW)
Part of a former hacienda, the seven delightful rooms surrounding this wonderfully secluded garden are all individually decorated in tasteful, brightly colored Mexican designs. Those with kitchenettes provide great alternatives for longer-term stays, while the charming garden, complete with pond and fountains, is a welcome oasis from the town outside.
oRosewood San Miguel de AllendeHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(map %415-152-97-00; www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/san-miguel-de-allende; Nemesio Diez 11; r/ste incl breakfast from M$11,750/17,300; 
naW
s)
San Miguel’s most exclusive and impressive address, the Rosewood is a magnificent palace of a place, where seamless service, gorgeous classically decorated rooms and fairly staggering levels of opulence combine to create the ultimate weekend address. There’s a great pool, beautiful manicured gardens and a rooftop bar with dizzying views over the domes and hills of San Miguel.
oCasa de la NocheGUESTHOUSE$$$
(map Google map %415-152-07-32; www.casadelanoche.com; Organos 19; r incl breakfast US$100-160; aW)
This fascinating former brothel wears its history proudly and owner Barbara will tell you interesting stories about past employees, whose photographs adorn the walls and some of whose descendants work as staff at the hotel to this day. Despite its racy origins, the hotel today is a model of respectability, popular with artists and writers.
Rooms vary enormously in layout and size, but are all comfortable and cozy with underfloor heating. Guests can use the shared kitchen and the generous communal areas. A restaurant is planned.
oAntigua CapillaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %415-152-40-48; www.antiguacapilla.com; Callejon Chepitos 16; r incl breakfast US$175-200; 
pnW)
Constructed around a tiny 17th-century chapel, this utterly stylish, spick-and-span place is hard to fault; it boasts every mod con and service imaginable plus extraordinary breakfasts and a gorgeous plant-lined courtyard. The English- and Spanish-speaking owners are delightful. Access is up a hill, but the rooftop terrace affords one of the best views in San Miguel. Excellent price-to-quality ratio.
Hotel MatildaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %415-152-10-15; www.hotelmatilda.com; Aldama 53; r incl breakfast from US$410; aWs)
A slice of thoroughly modern luxury makes a striking contrast to the rest of San Miguel’s staunchly colonial accommodations, but it works well here. Almost everything is white, including the sleek and understatedly fabulous rooms. There’s an infinity pool, spa and popular bar-restaurant too, where a great continental breakfast is served.
Art, including a copy of Diego Rivera’s 1940s portrait of Matilda Stream (the American hotel owner’s mother), is displayed throughout the property.
Casa FloridaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map %415-154-81-95; www.casafloridasma.com; Macias 60; r incl breakfast US$130-170; aW)
Muted tones and subtle design choices define this ultra-attractive, intimate boutique hotel in the heart of San Miguel. The four rooms vary in size, but all are delightful and feature plush pillows and locally made throws.There’s a shared roof terrace, and the penthouse even has its own private one. Uncommonly for such a place, guests can use the kitchen. Prices increase by about 30% on weekends.
Dos CasasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %415-154-40-73; www.doscasas.com.mx; Quebrada 101; d incl breakfast from US$210; naW)
This sleek sleep oozes contemporary style with its cream and black hues, fireplaces and private terraces. Twelve stunning rooms across two adjoining properties provide a touch of avant-garde luxury overseen by its architect owner. There’s a spa, plus the restaurant Áperi in the courtyard, which is easily a culinary highlight of the region.
Casa de la CuestaB&B$$$
(map Google map %415-154-43-24; www.casadelacuesta.com; Cuesta de San José 32; r incl breakfast US$180; nW)
Perched on a hill behind the Mercado El Nigromante, this ornate and deeply Mexican place has spacious rooms in a decorative colonial mansion, lavish breakfasts and friendly, knowledgable owners. Minimum stay of two nights.
5Eating
San Miguel has a superb eating scene showcasing a startling variety of quality Mexican and international cuisine, and has repeatedly proven its reputation as one of Mexico’s leading culinary capitals. A thriving cafe society prevails and gorgeous bakeries proliferate. For budget bites, several reliable food stands are on the corner of Ancha de San Antonio and tree-shaded Calle Nemesio Diez.
Tacos Don FelixTACOS$
(www.tacosdonfelix.com; Fray Juan de San Miguel 15; tacos M$25-40, mains M$70-200; h6pm-midnight Fri & Sat, 2-9:30pm Sun)
An opportunity to get off the tourist trail presents itself at this pleasantly local establishment in the Colonia of San Rafael, a short way outside the center. Delicious tacos and friendly service await you either in the shady courtyard or the surprisingly large main restaurant. Take a taxi after dark.
Baja Fish TaquitoTACOS$
(map %415-121-09-50; Mesones 11B; tacos M$25-40, set meals M$80-120; h11:30am-8pm; W)
You’ll find extraordinarily solicitous staff here at this fabulous little joint specializing in mind-blowingly good Baja-style fish tacos and tostadas. While it may not look like much downstairs where you can sit at the counter and watch the tacos being made, there’s also a lovely upstairs terrace with good views of San Miguel’s rooftops.
La Mesa GrandeBAKERY$
(map Google map %415-154-08-38; www.lamesagrande.com; Zacateros 149; breakfasts M$50-100, pizzas M$90-130; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; W)
An American-run contemporary panadería-cafe with excellent pastries, great breakfasts, tasty salads, and wood-fired oven pizzas that you can design yourself. The large communal table of the name is a great place for neighborly chats, and the entire place is something of a meeting point for locals.
El ManantialBAR, CANTINA$
(map Google map Barranca 78; tacos M$85-95 tostadas M$40-60; h1pm-1am Tue-Sun)
Behind the swinging doors of a former saloon, ‘The Spring’ serves fabulously fresh ceviche in a dark and rather loud space with a cantina feel. It has a real buzz compounded by habanero salsa, the spiciest of chili sauces, and even though the staff can be somewhat surly, it’s nearly always packed full. Try their ginger margaritas (M$65).
San AgustínCAFE$
(map Google map %415-154-91-02; San Francisco 21; snacks M$30-80, mains M$70-180; h8am-11pm Mon-Thu, 9am-midnight Fri-Sun)
This is a ‘don’t leave San Miguel without…’ experience. This sweet-tooth’s paradise is the best place in Mexico for chocolate and churros (doughnut-like fritters), though you’ll often have to wait in line just to get inside. Most people seem to think that it’s well worth it, however.
oVía OrgánicaMEXICAN$$
(map www.viaorganica.org; Ledesma 2; mains M$120-200; h8am-9pm; W
v) 
S
This fantastic and pioneering spot has won the hearts of well-to-do San Miguelense expats thanks to its wonderful menu of Mexican food with an international twist (try a sage-seasoned turkey burger or the vegetarian lasagna). The shop sells locally sourced organic food and also offers free workshops every Thursday on subjects including agriculture and healthy eating.
oLavandaCAFE$$
(map Macías 87; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; Wv) S
A guitarist strums away during super-popular breakfasts – get there at opening time or be prepared to queue – at this lovely place where killer coffee, superb egg dishes and delicious cazuelas are served. The charming premises are divided into two: one high-ceilinged dining room and one garden courtyard.
oLa ParadaPERUVIAN$$
(map Google map %415-152-04-73; www.laparadasma.com; Recreo 94; mains M$105-250; hnoon-10pm, Wed-Sat, to 9pm Sun & Mon; W)
This hot spot showcases Peruvian cuisine at its best. Dish presentation is as exquisite as the names (‘El Quiquiriquí,’ aka chicken breast and ‘Chino Cochino’ pork, but much fancier). The ubiquitous (and delicious) ceviche is superb. The owners are young, hip and, most importantly, passionate chefs. Vegetarians can enjoy the ‘veggie muncher’ (M$105) – an elaborate grilled zucchini sandwich. Reservations essential.
MuroMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %415-152-63-41; www.cafemuro.com; Cerrada de San Gabriel 1; M$130-195; h9am-4pm Thu-Tue; W)
Now in its fabulous new premises a short walk from Centro, Muro serves up everything from chilaquiles con arrachera to french toast and pastries, plus fabulous freshly made juices, which combine to make it an awesome breakfast spot. Local ingredients are used where possible and the ultra-professional and friendly owners ensure you’ll receive a warm welcome.
Café RamaBAR, RESTAURANT$$
(map Google map %415-154-96-55; www.cafe-rama.com; Nemesio Diez 7; mains M$165-290; h8am-midnight Tue-Sun; Wv)
This cool cafe-bar-gallery comprises two separate rooms that are lovingly furnished with quirky antiques and eclectic curios, plus cozy couches near the open fireplace. It’s changing menu proffers excellent international dishes and is fearsomely popular, especially for breakfast, which is served daily until noon, and 1pm on the weekend. Try the curried mussels or the divine shrimp tacos.
BerlinINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %415-152-94-32; www.berlinmexico.com; Umarán 19; mains M$130-385; h5pm-late; W)
This cool, artsy spot serves up some good international feeds, including several hearty German classics such as spätzle. There’s also an impressive range of steaks. The atmospheric and highly social bar is great for a glamorous tipple.
oNomadaMEXICAN$$$
(map %415-121-91-63; http://nomada-cocina.mx; Macias 88; mains M$70-180; h1-10pm Mon-Sat; Wv)
This gorgeous place with friendly English-speaking staff serves up some of San Miguel’s best contemporary Mexican cuisine. Try its sublime pork-belly tacos, cactus salad with charred avocado or octopus tortilla with salsa verde, locally sourced cheese and cilantro. There’s a highly recommended four-course tasting menu (M$350) served on Monday and Wednesday only.
oÁperiINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %415-152-09-41; www.aperi.mx; Dos Casas, Quebrada 101; 5-course tasting menu with/without wine pairing M$1200/900, mains M$360-480; h2-4pm & 6:30-10:30pm Wed-Mon; v)
This courtyard restaurant inside a boutique hotel is perhaps the best spot in town for fine dining. The chef here has been given the freedom to do whatever he wants and a regularly changing menu featuring the likes of duck, pork and seafood dishes, prepared with San Miguelense ingredients, is the result. Farm-to-table cuisine has never looked so glamorous.
The Chef’s Table – a multicourse tasting menu for two to five people – starts at 6:30pm (by reservation). If you want to loosen the purse strings, this is the place to do it.
The RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %415-154-78-77; www.therestaurantsanmiguel.com; Diez de Sollano 16; mains M$245-480; hnoon-10pm Sun, Tue & Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat)
This fine-dining establishment set within a patio of a colonial building boasts a thoroughly international menu with occasional Mexican influences, and features seasonal, organic produce inventively combined to sublime effect. Try the duck tacos or the sweet-corn risotto with huitlacoche (corn fungus) for a memorable meal.
6Drinking & Nightlife
In San Miguel, drinking and entertainment are often synonymous. Many bars (and restaurants) host live music. Most of the action is on Thursday to Saturday nights, but some places have live music nightly. Calle Umarán has plenty of bars.
La MezcaleríaBAR
(map Google map Correo 47; h5-11pm)
It’s mezcal-mania time in San Miguel and this cool bar, where you can get your tongue around a mighty mix of mezcals from Oaxaca, plus good tapas plates, is a local favorite. Don’t miss the superb mezcal margarita.
Mama MíaCLUB
(map Google map www.mamamia.com.mx; Umarán 8; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to late Fri & Sat)
This perennially popular place has separate areas for differing entertainment purposes; hit Mama’s Bar for live rock/funk on Fridays and Saturdays (or karaoke on weeknights), or join a more sophisticated crowd in the restaurant patio for live folk music. Up front, Bar Leonardo’s shows big-screen sports and La Terrazza, the terrace bar, offers a fine view of the town. The joint gets going by 11pm.
La AzoteaBAR
(map Google map Umarán 6)
This roof-terrace cocktail lounge is a gay-friendly, laid-back place with a young and smart crowd; it’s a top spot for sundowners.
El Café de la ManchaCAFE
(map Google map www.facebook.com/elcafedelamancha; Recreo 21A; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; W)
Just larger than a hole-in-the-wall, this is the place for coffee snobs. Need we say more. The trained owner-barista does magic with his Mexican beans and adopts every extraction method known to coffee culture (French press, chemex, aeropress, espresso).
3Entertainment
It’s one big cultural party in San Miguel; check out what’s on in Atención San Miguel. The Escuela de Bellas Artes and the Biblioteca (in the Sala Quetzal) host a variety of cultural events, many in English; check their noticeboards for schedules.
Teatro Ángela PeraltaTHEATER
(map Google map %415-152-22-00; http://teatro.sanmigueldeallende.gob.mx; cnr Calles Mesones & Hernández Macías)
Built in 1873, this elegant venue is the most impressive in town and hosts local productions, classical-music concerts and other cultural events. The ticket office is around the corner. Tickets cost between M$50 and M$500 depending on the production.
7Shopping
San Miguel has a mind-boggling number of craft shops, selling folk art and handicrafts from all over the country. Anyone serious about buying should book an appointment at the excellent Galeria Atotonilco (%415-185-22-25; www.folkartsanmiguel.com; Camino Antiguo Ferrocarril 14, El Cortijo; hby appointment only). Local crafts include tinware, wrought iron, silver, brass, leather, glassware, pottery and textiles. Many shops are along Canal, San Francisco, Zacateros and Pila Seca. Price and quality varies widely.
Arts & Crafts
Part of the joy of wandering around San Miguel is to stumble upon the many galleries tucked away in streets around town; there are more commercial galleries than cafes (and perhaps even real-estate agents) in San Miguel. The largest concentration of contemporary art galleries and design studios (mainly expatriates’ work) is housed in the trendy Fábrica La Aurora (map %415-152-13-12; www.fabricalaaurora.com; Aurora s/n; h10am-6pm), a remodeled raw-cotton factory on the north end of town.
Markets
An interesting excursion is the famous Tianguis (h7am–6pm Tue), a huge outdoor affair beside the Soriana shopping center, 2.5km southeast of the center on the Querétaro road. Here you’ll find a fantastic choice of fresh produce as well as lots of lurid plastic goods, though some may find the scale and crowds overwhelming. More centrally, Mercado El Nigromante (map Google map Colegio s/n; h8am-8pm) sells fruit, vegetables and other foodstuffs. A rather upmarket alternative to both is TOSMA (map www.tosma.net; Ancha de San Antonio 32; h9am-4pm Sat), which runs all day Saturday in a lot off the Ancha de San Antonio and where you can find artisanal products, souvenirs and food stands.
8Information
Don’t even contemplate spending time in town without buying the weekly English- and Spanish-language newspaper Atención San Miguel (M$15). Published every Friday, it’s chockablock with what’s on for the coming week, including tours, concerts and gallery openings. It also lists yoga, Spanish, art and dance class schedules. You can buy it at the public library and many cafes or from roaming vendors.
Most banks have their own ATMs and are located on, or within two blocks of, El Jardín. There are also casas de cambio (money changers) on Correo.
The main post office (cnr Correo & Corregidora; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) can be found just off the Jardín, although for sending handicrafts or art home, it’s better to use a delivery service such as La Unión (%415-185-92-00; www.launionsanmiguel.com; Pila Seca 13; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat).
H+ San Miguel de Allende (%415-152-59-00; www.hmas.mx/sanmiguel; Libramiento Jose Manuel Zavala 12) is your best bet for modern medical care and English-speaking doctors should you have a medical emergency.
Tourist Office (%415-152-09-00; www.visitsanmiguel.travel; Plaza Principal 8; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, to 6pm Sun) is on the northern side of El Jardín. Good for maps of the town, promotional pamphlets and information on events.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Local debate rages about the small local airport planned by San Miguel’s authorities, many fearing that its construction will change the city forever. In the meantime, the nearest airport is the Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato, between León and Silao, around 1½ hours away by car. The obvious alternatives are Querétaro or Mexico City’s airports.
BUS
The Central de Autobuses is on Canal (Calzada de la Estación), 3km west of the center. Second-class services (Coordinados/Flecha Amarilla and Herradura de Plata) also leave from this station. Other 1st-class buses serve Aguascalientes, Monterrey and San Luis Potosí.
BUSES FROM SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Celaya | 60 | 1¾ | every 15min |
| Dolores Hidalgo | 53 | 1 | every 40min 7am-7pm |
| Guadalajara | 590-680 | 5¼-5½ | 4 daily |
| Guanajuato | 113-175 | 1-1½ | hourly |
| León | 224 | 2¼-2½ | 12 daily |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 328 | 3½-4¼ | 8 daily |
| Querétaro | 74 | 1-1½ | every 40min 7am-8:30pm |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The only San Miguel–based car-hire agency is Bookatour. Prices start at about M$750 per day including insurance. Most of the bigger agencies are in Guanajuato or Bajío Airport.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Many agencies provide shuttle transportation to/from Guanajuato airport. These include Viajes Vertiz (%415-152-18-56; www.facebook.com/viajesvertiz; Hidalgo 1; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), Viajes San Miguel (%415-152-25-37; www.viajessanmiguel.com; Mesones 38, Interior 7; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), Bajío Go (%415-152-19-99; www.bajiogo.com; Jésus 11; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) and Bookatour. Alternatively, take a bus to Silao and get a taxi from there to the airport (around M$60). For Mexico City airport, get a bus to Querétaro and a bus direct to the airport from there.
If heading from the airport to San Miguel by bus, it’s easiest to go to León by taxi and take a bus from there. No bus service operates between Guanajuato airport and central León. A taxi to León costs M$380 and to San Miguel M$1200 (for up to four people).
TO/FROM THE BUS STATION
Local buses (M$6) run from 7am to 9pm daily. ‘Central’ buses run regularly between the bus station and the town center. Coming into town these terminate at the eastern end of Insurgentes after winding through the streets. Heading out of the center, you can pick one up on Canal. A taxi between the center and the bus station costs around M$40; trips around town cost around M$35.
Mineral de Pozos
%442 / Pop 3500
Less than a century ago, Mineral de Pozos was a flourishing silver-mining center of 70,000 people, but with the 1910 Revolution and the flooding of the mines, the population dwindled. Empty houses, a large and unfinished church and discarded mine shafts were the legacy of abandonment. Today this tiny place is gradually winning back its place on the map. Visitors can explore the crumbling buildings and tour the fascinating surrounds – including several mine ruins – by mountain bike, horse or guided tour. As well as galleries, many craft shops are dotted around town, where community members sell their work.
2Activities
Be sure to explore beyond the Jardin Juarez and head up the hill to Plaza Zaragoza and down the hill to Plaza Mineros. The mines are all located outside the town itself and are best visited on a guided tour, which can be arranged through Cinco Señores.
Cinco SeñoresTOURS
(%468-106-06-35, 468-103-06-50; mineral-depozos@outlook.com; Juárez; M$150 per tour; h11am-6pm Sat & Sun)
This certified tour agency is the best in town. It offers guided tours of one (M$150) or two (M$220) mining haciendas, including transportation, entrances fees and a guided tour through the mineshaft. It also provides helmets for all participants. Find them on Mineral de Pozos’ main square.
4Sleeping & Eating
oPosada de las MinasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%442-293-02-13; www.posadadelasminas.com; Doblado 1; r incl breakfast M$1000-1800; W)
This beautifully restored 19th-century hacienda offers ornate rooms and apartments complete with Mexican ceramics and antique furnishings. The ‘Santa Brigida’ room has corner windows with views over town, and many others have balconies. It has a bar and restaurant, an impressive cactus garden and charming staff.
El SecretoB&B$$
(%442-293-02-00; www.elsecretomexico.com; Jardín Principal 4; r incl breakfast from M$1500; W
#)
On the plaza, this small B&B nestled in a lovely garden featuring cacti, flowers and birds aplenty has three elegant rooms. Pets are welcome.
oLa Cantina MinaMEXICAN$$
(www.posadadelasminas.com; Doblado 1; mains M$100-175; h8:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W)
This wonderful patio restaurant around a small fountain inside the Posada de las Minas is the best place for a leisurely meal in Mineral de Pozos. The menu is sophisticated and delicious and includes dishes such as coconut shrimp with pineapple sauce and a salmon burger, as well as Mexican classics, such as a show-stopping queso fundido (melted cheese).
7Shopping
Casa del Venado AzulMUSIC
(%468-117-03-87; azulvenado@hotmail.com; Calle Centenario 34; h10am-6pm)
Among Mexico’s folk instrument makers, shop owner Luis Cruz stands out. The accomplished musician heads his own musical ensemble, which tours internationally. The location doubles as a budget hotel (r M$500-600).
8Getting There & Away
If you have your own wheels, Mineral de Pozos is a one-hour trip from San Miguel de Allende. Alternatively, the easiest way to get to Pozos is with Bookatour. Its five-hour trips cost US$45 per person (minimum three). Alternatively, Bici-Burro offers day-long bike tours to the town and mines.
Unfortunately, by bus (from San Miguel de Allende or Querétaro) it will take the best part of a day to get to this backwater: you must go first to Dolores Hidalgo, then to San Luis de la Paz (14km north of Pozos, a detour east of Hwy 57) and then take a third bus to Pozos, making it a real slog.
AGUASCALIENTES STATE
POP 1.2 MILLION
The state of Aguascalientes is one of Mexico’s smallest and its focus is squarely on the city of the same name. According to local legend, a kiss planted on the lips of dictator Antonio López de Santa Anna by the wife of a prominent local politician brought about the creation of a separate Aguascalientes state from neighboring Zacatecas.
Beyond the museum-rich capital city formal tourist sites are few, but it’s a pleasant-enough drive en route to or from Zacatecas, through fertile lands of corn, beans, chilies, fruit and grain. The state’s ranches produce beef cattle as well as bulls that are sacrificed at bullfights countrywide.
Aguascalientes
%449 / Pop 935,000 / Elev 1880m
This prosperous industrial city is home to more than half the state’s population. Despite its messy outskirts, which are defined by ring roads and the kind of urban sprawl you’ll find on the outskirts of almost all cities in Mexico, at its heart is a fine plaza and several blocks of handsome colonial buildings. Museums are its strong point: the Museo Nacional de la Muerte justifies a visit in itself, as do those devoted to José Guadalupe Posada and Saturnino Herrán. If you’re passing through the state, its pleasant capital is worth stopping in for lunch or even overnight if you’re not in a hurry.
History
Before the Spanish arrived, a labyrinth of catacombs was built here; the first Spaniards called it La Ciudad Perforada (The Perforated City). Archaeologists understand little of the tunnels and unfortunately they are off-limits to visitors.
Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado arrived in 1522, but was driven back by the Chichimecs. A small garrison was founded here in 1575 to protect Zacatecas−Mexico City silver convoys. Eventually, as the Chichimecs were pacified, the region’s hot springs sparked the growth of a town; a large tank beside the Ojo Caliente springs helped irrigate local farms that fed hungry mining districts nearby.
Today the city’s industries include textiles, wine, brandy, leather, preserved fruits and car manufacturing.
1Sights
oMuseo Nacional de la MuerteMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museonacionaldelamuerte.uaa.mx; Jardíndel Estudiante s/n; adult/student M$20/10, Tue free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The excellent Museo Nacional de la Muerte exhibits all things relating to Mexico’s favorite subject – death – from the skeleton La Catrina to historic artifacts and modern depictions. The contents – over 2500 items, drawings, literature, textiles, toys and miniatures – were donated to the Universidad Autónoma de Aguascalientes by collector and engraver, Octavio Bajonero Gil. Over 1200 are on display. They span several centuries, from Mesoamerican to contemporary artistic interpretations.
While a section on the funeral rites of children is a little harrowing – not to mention pictures of a dead Frida Kahlo elsewhere – otherwise the tone is kept surprisingly light. In the second to last room, look out for the (very) miniature crystal skull. It’s believed to be from Aztec times and there are only two like it in the world. The upstairs gallery includes an interesting section on the different representations of death from countries around the world, and it becomes apparent that an obsession with the macabre is far from unique to Mexico. This wonderful place provides a colorful, humorous and insightful encounter and is easily a highlight of Aguascalientes.
Palacio de GobiernoHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map Plaza de la Patria; h8am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) 
F
On the south side of Plaza de la Patria, the red-and-pink stone Palacio de Gobierno is Aguascalientes’ most noteworthy colonial building. Once the mansion of colonial baron Marqués de Guadalupe, it dates from 1665 and has a striking courtyard with two levels of murals. Noteworthy is the mural depicting the 1914 convention by the Chilean artist Osvaldo Barra. Barra, whose mentor was Diego Rivera, also painted the mural on the south wall, a compendium of the forces that forged Aguascalientes.
Museo José Guadalupe PosadaMUSEUM
(map Google map %449-915-45-56; Jardín El Encino s/n; adult/student M$10/5, Sun free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Aguascalientes native José Guadalupe Posada (1852−1913) was in many ways the founder of modern Mexican art. His engravings and satirical cartoons broadened the audience for art in Mexico, highlighted social problems and were a catalyst in the later mural phase, influencing artists including Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and Alfaro David Siqueiros. Posada’s hallmark is the calavera (skull or skeleton) and many of his calavera engravings have been widely reproduced.
Museo de AguascalientesMUSEUM
(map Google map Zaragoza 505; adult/student M$10/5, free Sun; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in a handsome neoclassical building, this museum houses a permanent collection of work by the brilliant Aguascalientes artist Saturnino Herrán (1887−1918), and there are also temporary exhibitions. His works are some of the first to honestly depict the Mexican people. The sensual sculpture Malgretout on the patio is a fiberglass copy of the marble original by Jesús Fructuoso Contreras.
CatedralCATHEDRAL
(map Google map Plaza de la Patria)
The well-restored 18th-century baroque cathedral, on the plaza’s west side, is more magnificent inside than out. Over the altar at the east end of the south aisle is a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe by Miguel Cabrera. There are more works by Cabrera, colonial Mexico’s finest artist, in the cathedral’s pinacoteca (picture gallery), which is open at Easter only, though if you ask a priest, he might let you in.
Museo Regional de HistoriaMUSEUM
(map Google map %449-916-52-28; Av Carranza 118; adult M$50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This history museum was designed by Refugio Reyes as a family home and features a small chapel. Its exhibits run all the way from the big bang to the colonial conquest. It also has a beautiful chapel with ex voto paintings and works attributed to Correa. Anyone interested in Mexican history will appreciate these displays. There are also temporary exhibitions.
Templo del EncinoCHURCH
(map Google map Jardín El Encino; h7am-1pm & 6-9pm)
This church contains a black statue of Jesus that some believe is growing. When it reaches an adjacent column, a worldwide calamity is anticipated. The huge Way of the Cross murals are also noteworthy.
2Activities
oBaños Termales de OjocalienteTHERMAL BATHS
(%449-970-07-21; Av Tecnológico 102; private baths per hour from M$420; h8am-8pm)
Despite the city’s name, these beautifully restored and colorful thermal baths are the only ones near the center. The brightly tiled 1808 complex truly turns back the clock; the waters are said to help all sorts of ailments. The easiest way to get there is by taxi (around M$50).
zFestivals & Events
Feria de San MarcosFAIR
(www.feriadesanmarcos.gob.mx; Expoplaza; hmid-Apr)
This is Mexico’s biggest annual three- to four-week fair. It centers on Expoplaza and attracts thousands of visitors with exhibitions, bullfights, cockfights, rodeos, concerts and cultural events. The big parade takes place on the saint’s day, April 25. The Feria is Aguascalientes’ biggest event and at this time all accommodations are at a premium.
Festival de las CalaverasCULTURAL
(hNov)
During the 10-day Festival de las Calaveras (the dates vary but always encompass November 1 and 2), Aguascalientes celebrates Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) with an emphasis on the symbolism of calavera – the edible or decorative skull so beloved by Mexicans at this time of year.
4Sleeping
Aguascalientes has a decent range of accommodations suited to most budgets, and a couple of recently opened hostels have made it cheap for backpackers to stay here too. Note that prices skyrocket during the Feria de San Marcos in April and accommodations are always completely booked for the fair’s final weekend; residents run a lucrative homestay service at this time.
Hostal La Vie en RoseHOSTEL$
(map %449-688-71-69, 437-479-24-00; lavieenrosehostal@gmail.com; Nieto 457; dm/d M$200/400; W)
This friendly and good-value hostel has rather simple decor, but enjoys the odd pleasing vintage touch. Dorms are clean and share bathrooms, while double rooms have their own facilities. There’s a foosball table, a good kitchen, a lounge area and a roof terrace with a bar, all of which combine to give the place a social vibe.
El Giro HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map %449-917-93-93; www.elgirohostal.com; Ignacio Allende Oriente 341; dm from M$180)
This colorful spot is the best hostel in town. It has rather tightly packed bunk rooms, but each has its own bathroom except one. There’s also a kitchen, friendly staff and its location is excellent. Take bus 31 from the bus station and disembark at the corner of Calles Elizondo and Rayon.
Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map %449-269-69-95, 449-917-95-95; Nieto 502; r weekdays/weekends M$650/1050; aW)
Housed in a brutalist concrete building and displaying plenty of its namesake art (including a rather striking bull in reception), this place is striking out to be memorable and rather neatly succeeds. Its comfortable and stylish rooms may rather lack natural light, but they are excellent value during the week, with prices spiking at the weekend. There is no breakfast.
5Eating & Drinking
There are some decent and fairly varied eating options in Aguascalientes. Fresh produce and cheap eats are available in three markets: Mercado Juárez (map Google map Plazuela Juárez), Mercado Jesús Terán (map Google map Arteaga) and Mercado Morelos (map Google map Morelos), each of which is open daily from 7am to 7pm. Carranza is lined with eateries. Callejón del Codo is the place to go for small cafes and coffee.
oMesa VerdeCAFE$
(map Elizondo 113; h9:30am-5pm Mon, Wed-Fri, 10:30am-6pm Sat & Sun; Wv)
This delightful find is a fabulous spot for a relaxed lunch, with its vegetarian-friendly comida saludable – health food – that is freshly made right in front of you. Artisanal beers are on the menu, as well as great coffee. There’s also a roof terrace with wooden tables and a lovely vibe.
Rincón MayaYUCATECAN$$
(map Google map Abasolo 113; mains M$100-200; h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10:30pm Sun)
Until lunchtime, this place has service at La Mestiza Yucateca (open 8am to 2pm), its alter ego next door. Both are located in a former hacienda and both serve delectable Yucatecan specialties.
Restaurant MitlaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map Madero 220; mains M$75-230; h7am-10pm, to 9pm Sun; W)
This large, pleasant and popular restaurant is caught in a time warp; specifically 1938, the year it opened. There are white-shirted waiters carrying silver trays, plus a grand menu with a choice of Mexican specialties, set breakfasts (from M$90) and buffet lunches (M$140).
Pulquería PosadaBAR
(map Google map La Pulque; Nieto 445; h10am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm Tue-Sun)
Aguascalientes used to be renowned for its pulque, and this popular student hangout has reintroduced the tradition. It’s fun and cheap, with a half-liter jarra (jug) of pulque (a traditional Aztec tipple made from fermented agave sap) costing M$20. There’s also a good range of mezcals, flavored with everything from lime to guava.
3Entertainment
Aguascalientes has two theaters, Teatro de Aguascalientes (%449-978-54-14; cnr Calles Chávez & Aguascalientes) and Teatro Morelos (map Google map %449-915-19-41; Nieto 113, Plaza de la Patria), which stage a variety of cultural events.
Casa de la CulturaARTS CENTER
(map Google map %449-910-20-10; Av Carranza 101)
In a fine 17th-century building, the Casa de la Cultura hosts art exhibitions, concerts, theater and dance events.
7Shopping
Casa de las ArtesaníasARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map Nieto 210)
This lovely Casa de las Artesanías showcases a range of stunning handicrafts made in the region, from local sweets to leather products (using the intricate piteado technique).
8Information
Banks with ATMs are common around Plaza de la Patria and Expoplaza. Casas de cambio (money changers) cluster on Hospitalidad, opposite the post office.
Star Médica (%449-910-99-00; www.starmedica.com; Universidad 101)
State Tourist Office (%449-910-20-88, ext 4300; www.aguascalientes.gob.mx; Palacio de Gobierno, Plaza de la Patria; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aéropuerto Internacional Jesús Terán (%449-918-28-06) is 26km south of Aguascalientes off the highway to Mexico City. There are domestic flights from here to Mexico City and Monterrey, as well as direct services to Los Angeles, Houston and Dallas/Fort Worth.
BUS
The bus station (Central de Autobuses Aguascalientes; Av Convención) is 2km south of the center. It has several food outlets and luggage storage. Deluxe and 1st- and 2nd-class buses operate to/from Aguascalientes. Deluxe and 1st-class companies include ETN, Primera Plus, Futura and Ómnibus de México. The main 2nd-class line is Coordinados (Flecha Amarilla).
BUSES FROM AGUASCALIENTES
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guadalajara | 255-310 | 2¾-3 | frequent |
| Guanajuato | 240 | 3 | 2 daily |
| León | 180-240 | 2-3½ | frequent |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 470-680 | 6 | frequent |
| Queretaro | 395-550 | 5 | frequent |
| San Luis Potosí | 175-245 | 3-3½ | hourly |
| Zacatecas | 165-230 | 2 | hourly |
8Getting Around
Most places of interest are within easy walking distance of each other. Regular city buses (M$6) run from 6am to 10pm. From the city center, several buses head to the bus station from the corner Galeana (Galeana & Insurgentes; near Insurgentes).
Taxis charge as per metered fares. Between the bus station and the center the taxi fare is from around M$25 to M$30.
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ STATE
One of Mexico’s most scenic and varied states, San Luis Potosí manages to charm all those who visit, whether it be with the enchanting green valleys, steep mountainsides and towering waterfalls of the Huasteca Potosina, or with its eponymous historic capital, the genteel colonial center of which looks more like a film set than the workaday medium-sized Mexican city it is. Elsewhere there’s the fascinating ‘ghost town’ of Real de Catorce, the epic journey to which culminates in a long drive down a mildly terrifying tunnel through the mountainside: quite an unforgettable experience that is instantly rewarded by arrival in one of the most striking pueblos mágicos (magical villages) in Mexico. Finally, do not miss a trip to charming Xilitla, the nearest town to Edward James’ epic sculpture garden of Las Pozas, a delightful dadaist treat complete with waterfalls and rushing streams flowing down the thickly forested hillside.
HUICHOL VISIONS
The remote Sierra Madre Occidental, in and around the far north of Jalisco, is the home of the Huicholes, one of Mexico’s most distinctive and enduring indigenous groups. A fiercely independent people, they were one of the few indigenous groups not subjugated by the Aztecs.
The arrival of the Spanish had little immediate effect on the Huicholes and it wasn’t until the 17th century that the first Catholic missionaries reached the Huichol homelands. Rather than convert to Christianity, the Huicholes incorporated various elements of Christian teachings into their traditional animist belief systems. In Huichol mythology, gods become personalized as plants, totem animal species and natural objects, while their supernatural form is explored in religious rituals.
Every year the Huicholes leave their isolated homeland and make a pilgrimage to the Sierra de Catorce, in northern San Luis Potosí state. In this harsh desert region, they seek out the mezcal cactus (Lophophora williamsii), known as peyote cactus. The rounded peyote ‘buttons’ contain a powerful hallucinogenic drug (whose chief element is mescaline) that is central to the Huicholes’ rituals and complex spiritual life.
The fact is that peyote is illegal in Mexico though many travelers seem intent on ignoring this. Under Mexican law, the Huicholes are permitted to use it for their spiritual purposes. For the Huicholes, indiscriminate use is regarded as offensive, even sacrilegious.
Traditionally the main Huichol art forms were telling stories and making masks and detailed geometric embroidery, or ‘yarn pictures.’ In the last few decades, brightly colored beads have replaced the yarn. This is painstaking work, where the beads are pressed into a beeswax-covered substrate. This exquisite artwork is sold in craft markets, shops and galleries. Prices are usually fixed and the Huicholes don’t like to haggle. To see the best work, visit one of the specialist museums or shops in Zapopan (Guadalajara), Tepic, Puerto Vallarta or Zacatecas.
San Luis Potosí
%444 / Pop 762,000 / Elev 1860m
A grand old dame of a colonial city, San Luis Potosí was once a revolutionary hotbed, an important mining town and a seat of government to boot. Today the city has maintained its poise as the prosperous state capital, orderly industrial center and university seat, though it sees relatively few visitors.
A great place to wander through, the city’s historic core is made up of numerous plazas and manicured parks that are linked by attractive pedestrian streets. Although not as striking as Zacatecas or Guanajuato, and definitely lacking the magic of San Miguel de Allende, this lively city’s cultural elegance is reflected in its delightful colonial architecture, impressive theater and numerous excellent museums.
History
Founded in 1592, San Luis is 20km west of the silver deposits in Cerro de San Pedro, and was named Potosí after the immensely rich Bolivian silver town, which the Spanish hoped it would rival. The mines began to decline in the 1620s, but the city was established enough as a ranching center to remain the major city of northeastern Mexico until overtaken by Monterrey at the start of the 20th century.
Known in the 19th century for its lavish houses and imported luxury goods, San Luis was twice the seat of President Benito Juárez’s government during the 1860s French intervention. In 1910 in San Luis, the dictatorial president Porfirio Díaz jailed Francisco Madero, his liberal opponent, during the presidential campaign. Freed after the election, Madero hatched his Plan de San Luis Potosí (a strategy to depose Díaz), announcing it in San Antonio, Texas, in October 1910; he declared the election illegal, named himself provisional president and designated November 20 as the day for Mexico to rise in revolt – the start of the Mexican Revolution.
1Sights
oMuseo Federico SilvaMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museofedericosilva.org; Obregón 80; adult/student M$30/15, free Sun; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon, to 2pm Sun)
This excellent museum devoted to the work of Mexican artist Federico Silva (b 1923) should not be missed. The 17th-century building was once a hospital and later a school, but has been exquisitely transformed into a museum of sculpture, ingeniously integrating the building’s previous neoclassical finish with the haunting monolithic sculptures of Silva.
As well as the permanent exhibition on the ground floor, the museum hosts high-quality temporary exhibitions of international sculptors upstairs.
Jardín de San Francisco (Jardín Guerrero)PLAZA
Dominated by the bulk of the Templo de San Francisco and convent, and with a lovely fountain gracing its interior, this square is one of the city’s most fetching.
Museo del FerrocarrilMUSEUM
(map Google map Av Othón; M$25; h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun; c)
Once an important stop on two of Mexico’s main train lines, San Luis Potosí has cleverly brought the past to life in this excellent museum housed inside its glorious former train station, which dates from 1936. Don’t miss the two murals by Fernando Leal (completed in 1943) that grace the station interior, or a wander through the old train carriages waiting by the platforms. Kids will love the miniature train ride that rings the museum (M$25).
Centro de las Artes CentenarioARTS CENTER
(Antigua Penitenciaria; Calz de Guadalupe; M$20; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun)
Up until 1999, this striking building was a prison believed to have briefly held Francisco Madero. Ten years later, it was transformed – without losing its fundamental design – into an arts and cultural center. Some of the former cells have been maintained; others have been converted into offices. It’s a must visit for architects. At 5pm, 6pm and 7pm there are guided tours (in Spanish; tip the guides).
Museo Regional PotosinoMUSEUM
(map Google map Plaza de Aranzazú s/n; M$50, Sun free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This fetching museum was originally part of a Franciscan monastery founded in 1590. The ground floor – part of which is housed in the small Capilla de San Antonio de Padua – has exhibits (predominantly pottery) of pre-Hispanic Mexico, especially the indigenous people of the Huasteca. Upstairs is the lavish, gold and aqua Capilla de Aranzazú, an elaborate private chapel constructed in the mid-18th century in Churrigueresque style. New monks were ordained here.
Templo del CarmenCHURCH
(map Google map h8am-1pm & 5-8pm)
The Churrigueresque Templo del Carmen (1749−64) is San Luis’s most spectacular structure. On the vividly carved stone facade, hovering angels show the touch of indigenous artisans. The Camarín de la Virgen, with a splendid golden altar, is to the left of the main altar inside. The entrance and roof of this chapel are a riot of small plaster figures.
CatedralCATHEDRAL
(map Google map Plaza de Armas) F
This impressive three-nave baroque cathedral was built between 1660 and 1730. Originally it had just one tower; the northern tower was added in the 20th century. The marble apostles on the facade are replicas of statues in Rome’s St Peter’s Basilica. On the hour, the electronic bells, a more recent addition, ring out.
Museo Nacional de la MáscaraMUSEUM
(map Google map National Mask Museum; www.museonacionaldelamascara.com; Villerías 2; adult/student M$20/10, camera M$10; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 3pm Sun & Mon)
This excellent museum displays a fascinating collection of ceremonial masks from across Mexico and around the world, and does a good job at explaining the evolution of pre-Columbian masks in Mexico. There are good descriptions in English and interesting videos of dances performed during community festivals.
Templo de San JoséCHURCH
(map Google map Av Othón)
Inside the Templo de San José, facing the Alameda’s south side, lies the image of El Señor de los Trabajos, a Christ-like figure attracting pilgrims from near and far. Numerous retablos (altarpieces) around the statue testify to prayers answered in finding jobs and other miracles.
Plaza de los FundadoresPLAZA
The least pretty of the plazas, Plaza de los Fundadores (Founders’ Plaza) is where the city was born. On the north side is a large building constructed in 1653 as a Jesuit college. Today it houses offices of the Universidad Autónoma de San Luis Potosí.
AlamedaPARK
(map Google map Av Othón)
The Alameda Juan Sarabia marks the eastern boundary of the downtown area. It used to be the vegetable garden of the monastery attached to the Templo del Carmen. Today it’s a large, attractive park with shady paths.
Museo de Arte ContemporáneoMUSEUM
(map Google map MAC; %444-814-43-63; www.macsanluispotosi.com; Morelos 235; adult/student M$20/10; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
This museum is housed in the city’s former post office. These days the brilliantly transformed space houses temporary art exhibitions that change every three months.
Templo de San FranciscoCHURCH
(map Google map Jardín de San Francisco)
The altar of the 17th- and 18th-century Templo de San Francisco was remodeled in the 20th century, but the sacristy (the priest’s dressing room), reached by a door to the right of the altar, is original and has a fine dome and carved pink stone. The Sala De Profundis, through the arch at the south end of the sacristy, has more paintings and a carved stone fountain. A beautiful crystal ship hangs from the main dome.
Templo de la Tercera Orden & Templo del Sagrado CorazónCHURCH
(map Google map Jardín de San Francisco)
The small Templo de la Tercera Orden, built in 1694 and restored in 1960, and Templo del Sagrado Corazón (1728−31), both formerly part of the Franciscan monastery, stand together at the south end of Jardín de San Francisco.
Museo del VirreinatoMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museodelvirreinato.mx; Villerías 155; adult/student M$15/10, camera M$20; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Beside the Templo del Carmen, this museum has a large collection of paintings and artifacts from the Spanish vice-regency. More of interest might be its temporary exhibitions – check what’s on.
TTours
Operatour PotosinaTOURS
(map Google map %444-151-22-01; www.operatourpotosina.com.mx; Hotel Napoles, Sarabia 120)
This is the SLP-based tour operator most used to working with foreign tourists. It’s run by friendly and knowledgable English-speaking Lori, who offers tours around the city, as well as to haciendas, Real de Catorce, Zacatecas and the Huasteca Potosina (minimum two people). Custom tours also available.
zFestivals & Events
Semana SantaRELIGIOUS
(hMar/Apr)
Holy Week is celebrated with concerts, exhibitions and other activities; on Good Friday at 3pm, Christ’s passion is reenacted in the barrio of San Juan de Guadalupe, followed at 8pm by the Silent Procession through the city center (one of the city’s most important events).
Feria Nacional PotosinaFAIR
(FENAPO; www.fenapo.mx; hAug)
San Luis’ National Fair, normally in the last three weeks of August, includes concerts, bullfights, rodeos, cockfights and agricultural shows.
Festival Internacional de Danza Contemporánea Lila LópezDANCE
(www.facebook.com/festivalinternacionaldedanzacontemporanealilalopez; hJul)
This wonderful annual national festival of contemporary dance is usually held on changing dates during July.
Día de San Luis Rey de FranciaRELIGIOUS
(hAug 25)
On August 25 the city’s patron saint, St Louis IX, is honored as the highlight of the Feria Nacional. Events include a parade, concerts and plays.
4Sleeping
Corazón de XoconostleHOSTEL$
(map Google map %444-243-98-98; www.corazondexoconostle.com; 5 de May 1040; dm with shared bathroom M$190, r M$425-500; W)
The best hostel in San Luis is this delightfully renovated house named after the flowering fruit of the nopal cactus. The hostel has good dorms with lockers, including one female-only dorm. There’s also a kitchen where guests can prepare food, free use of laundry facilities, a roof terrace and a friendly atmosphere.
The downside is the bathroom shortage – it might keep you hopping on your feet at peak bathroom hours.
Hikuri Eco HostalHOSTEL$
(map %444-814-76-01; hikuriecohostal@gmail.com; Iturbide 980; dm M$175, r from M$500; W)
A pleasantly converted house on the edge of the colonial old town, this fun place sets the tone by placing one end of a combi van in reception. Elsewhere there’s a funky assortment of recycled furniture and simple but comfortable dorms and private rooms. The well-traveled Italian owner speaks several languages and ensures a social environment.
Hotel San FranciscoHOTEL$$
(map Google map www.sanfranciscohotel.mx; Universidad 375; r M$1030; pnaW)
This converted historic building offers modern, business-style rooms that won’t thrill anyone with their office-style furniture, but are perfectly clean and comfortable. Rooms at the front with external windows are susceptible to traffic noise, while interior rooms don’t get the fresh air. But it’s a good choice either way.
Hotel PanoramaBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(map Google map %444-812-17-77, 800-480-01-00; www.hotelpanorama.com.mx; Av Carranza 315; r/ste M$1050/1400; pnaWs)
It’s the best of San Luis’ rather average lot of midrange accommodations and has its position going for it – opposite Plaza de los Fundadores. Beyond that, it’s smart(ish) and all 126 rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows; those on the south side overlook the pool and lovely garden. It’s understandably popular with business travelers, though the welcome could be warmer.
oHotel Museo Palacio de San AgustínHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %444-144-19-00; www.hotelmuseopalaciodesanagustin.com; Galeana 240; r from M$4000; pnaW)
Formerly a house for retired monks of the nearby San Agustín monastery, this extraordinary property has been restored to its original condition, including hand-painted gold-leaf finishes, crystal chandeliers and 700 certified European antiques. Rooms are elaborately decorated in the style of the Mexican 19th-century upper classes, and feature gorgeous marble bathrooms complete with L’Occitane toiletries. One to splurge on.
5Eating & Drinking
There’s a fairly ho-hum dining scene in San Luis, though don’t miss the delightful Cafe Cortáo, perhaps the city’s most enjoyable eatery. One local specialty to look out for is tacos potosinos – red, chili-impregnated tacos stuffed with cheese or chicken and topped with chopped potato, carrot, lettuce and loads of queso blanco (white cheese).
oCafe CortáoMEXICAN$
(map Google map Independencia 1150; mains M$45-85; h8:30am-1:30pm & 6:20-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1:30pm & 6:20-9:30pm Sat)
This simple spot is our top pick as it’s the perfect example of a fuss-free local that serves up lashings of quality Mexican meals to an appreciative crowd. All done with efficient service and a warm welcome from a charismatic owner. Don’t miss the heavenly huevo abolengo (eggs on bread with a mushroom and manchego-cheese sauce).
Antojitos El PozoleMEXICAN$
(map Google map cnr Calles Carmona & Arista; mains M$50-100; hnoon-11:30pm Tue-Sun)
The is the place for the local enchiladas potosinas – the tortilla dough is red from chili. This place was started by a woman selling antojitos (Mexican snacks) in her home in the 1980s. Demand for her goods was so high she opened several restaurants specializing in what she knows best – tacos rojos, delicious pozole (hominy stew) and quesadillas de papa (potato quesadillas).
La Oruga y La CebadaINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Callejón de Lozada 1; mains M$115-200; hnoon-1am Tue-Sat, to 11pm Sun, to 10pm Mon; W)
‘The caterpillar and the barley’ is a large and hugely popular restaurant divided between the downstairs dining room, dominated by a normally busy bar, and the upstairs roof terrace complete with retractable roof. There’s a big menu that includes Mexican favorites as well as international dishes. The pizza is excellent, as is the craft beer.
Cielo TintoINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %444-814-00-40; www.cielotinto.com.mx; Carranza 700; mains M$140-295; h8am-11:30pm)
Generally held to be San Luis Potosí’s best restaurant, the ‘red sky’ is an attractive upscale place housed in a renovated hacienda with a beautiful courtyard. The menu is international and runs from skilfully presented grilled dishes to Mexican standards. Good set breakfasts (M$90 to M$130).
La Gran VíaSPANISH$$$
(map Google map %444-812-28-99; www.lagranviaslp.com; Carranza 560; mains M$230-380; h1pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun)
Notes of expensive perfume mingle with the aromas of paella, lechón asado (roasted piglet) and cod fish – just a few of the dishes on this culinary institution’s extensive menu. Great for a special meal out.
Callejon 7BCRAFT BEER
(map Google map www.7barrios.com.mx; Universidad 153; h6pm-1am Mon-Fri, 2pm-1am Sat & Sun)
A hip bar named after the very beer it produces, Siete barrios, which is in turn named after the seven main regions of the city. After you’ve tried one of its artisanal brews, from blonde ales to robust porters, you can bar hop your way down the laneway to surrounding drinking dens.
3Entertainment
San Luis has an active cultural scene. Ask in the tourist office about what’s on and keep your eye out for posters and the free monthly Guiarte booklet.
Teatro de la PazCONCERT VENUE
(map Google map %444-812-52-09; Villerias 2)
This exceptionally handsome neoclassical theater completed in 1894 contains a concert hall with 1500 seats where San Luis Potosí’s Orquesta Sinfónica performs. There is also an exhibition gallery and a theater here. Posters announce upcoming dance, theater and music events.
7Shopping
Casa Grande Esencia ArtesanalARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map Universidad 220; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
This cooperative of small stalls sells a great range of artesanías potosinas that are 100% locally made. There’s also clothing and more standard souvenirs.
La Casa del ArtesanoARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map www.elrebozo.gob.mx; Jardín Colón 23; h8am-3pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat)
For local products, try this shop full of potosino pottery, masks, woodwork and canework.
8Information
Hospital Lomas de SLP (%444-102-59-00; www.hls.com.mx; Av Palmira 600, Villas del Pedregal)
Post Office (Av Universidad 526; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Sectur (State Tourist Office; %444-812-99-39; www.visitasanluispotosi.com; Av Manuel José Othón 130; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun) Has maps and good information on off-the-beaten-track attractions in San Luis Potosí state.
Tourist Office (%444-812-57-19; Palacio Municipal; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) On the east side of Plaza de Armas.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto Internacional Ponciano Arriaga (%444-822-00-95; www.oma.aero/en) is 10km north of the city off Hwy 57. A new terminal was under construction at the time of writing. There are several daily flights to Mexico City and a once- or twice-daily flight to Monterrey.
BUS
The Terminal Terrestre Potosina (TTP; %444-816-46-02; Carretera 57), 2.5km east of the center, is a busy transportation hub that has deluxe, 1st-class and 2nd-class bus services. Its facilities include 24-hour luggage storage and fast-food outlets.
BUSES FROM SAN LUIS POTOSí
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aguascalientes | 196-245 | 2½-3 | hourly |
| Ciudad Valles | 690 | 4½ | hourly |
| Guadalajara | 485-660 | 5-6 | hourly |
| Guanajuato | 275 | 3 | 1 |
| Matehuala | 265 | 2½ | 4 |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 550-710 | 5-6½ | hourly |
| Monterrey | 690-785 | 6 | 5 |
| Querétaro | 286-340 | 2½-4 | frequent |
| San Miguel de Allende | 245 | 4 | 3 |
| Xilitla | 451 | 6 | 3 |
| Zacatecas | 290 | 3 | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Car-rental prices are around US$25 per day (excluding some insurances); week-long packages also available. All car-hire outlets can be found at the airport.
8Getting Around
Taxis charge around M$200 to M$250 for the half-hour trip to/from the airport. Coming into the city there’s a fixed rate of M$260 (you’ll need to line up and buy a voucher inside the terminal building).
To reach the center from the bus station, take any ‘Centro’ or bus 46. A convenient place to get off is on the Alameda, outside the former train station. A booth in the bus station sells taxi tickets (M$35 to M$70) to the center.
From the center to the bus station, take any ‘Central TTP’ or bus southbound on Avenida Constitución from the Alameda’s west side.
City buses run from 6:30am to 10:30pm (M$8). For places along Avenida Carranza, catch a ‘Morales’ (bus 9) or ‘Carranza’ (bus 23) at the bus depot behind Museo de Ferrocaril.