Northern Central Highlands
Querétaro State
Querétaro
Tequisquiapan
Jalpan
Bernal
Guanajuato State
Guanajuato
León
Dolores Hidalgo
San Miguel de Allende
Mineral de Pozos
Aguascalientes State
Aguascalientes
San Luis Potosí State
San Luis Potosí
Real de Catorce
La Huasteca Potosina
Zacatecas State
Zacatecas
Jerez
Northern Central Highlands
Why Go?
From cobbled lanes and shaded plazas to vast deserts and cloud forest, Mexico’s northern central highlands is a region as varied as its history, cuisine and cultures. It was here that enormous mineral wealth created rich colonial cities before revolutionary activity left ghost towns in its wake. Known as the Cuna de la Independencia (Cradle of Independence), the territory is renowned for its part in the country’s fight for autonomy, spurred on by the famous Grito de Dolores, which called the Mexican people to arms against the Spanish.
Unmissable highlights of the region include arty and achingly gorgeous San Miguel de Allende, the waterfalls and the turquoise-colored water of the Huasteca Potosina and the grand colonial silver cities of Guanajuato and Zacatecas. Elsewhere you’ll find pre-Hispanic sites, art museums, nightlife, crowded festivals and artesanías shopping to rival anywhere else in the country. Get ready to join the (exceptionally loud) party.
When to Go
- Jul & Aug Days are mild and wildflowers bloom; it’s the perfect time for do-it-yourself explorations.
- Oct–Apr It’s dry season in the Huasteca Potosina; great for visiting waterfalls and turquoise rivers.
- Late Mar or Apr Traditional religious festivities abound during Semana Santa (Holy Week).
Northern Central Highlands Highlights
1 San Miguel de Allende Wandering with awe through this gorgeous colonial city, which specializes in art, food, hot springs and fiestas.
2 Guanajuato Meandering through winding cobbled alleys and discovering marvelous museums.
3 Huasteca Potosina Plunging into the remarkable turquoise rivers and surveying extraordinary waterfalls.
4 Real de Catorce Sensing the glorious past in this very picturesque highland ghost town that is gradually coming back to life.
5 Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra Gorda Marveling at the mission churches and visiting communities within this wilderness jewel.
6 Zacatecas Discovering the fascinating museums that crowd this charming old silver city.
History
Until the Spanish conquest, the northern central highlands were inhabited by fierce seminomadic tribes known to the Aztecs as Chichimecs. They resisted Spanish expansion longer than other Mexican peoples, but were ultimately conquered in the late 16th century. The wealth subsequently amassed by the Spanish was at the cost of many Chichimecs, who were used as slave labor in the mines.
This historically volatile region sparked the criollo fight for independence from Spain, which was plotted in Querétaro and San Miguel de Allende and launched from Dolores Hidalgo in 1810. A century later Francisco Madero released his revolutionary Plan de San Luis Potosí and the 1917 signing of Mexico’s constitution in Querétaro cemented the region’s leading role in Mexican political affairs.
In more recent times the region has flourished economically, due in part to the boom in the motor, aerospace, manufacturing and agricultural industries, particularly around Querétaro, while San Miguel attracts many weekenders from Mexico City and a constant stream of well-heeled creatives from the USA.
QUERÉTARO STATE
POP 1.9 MILLION
Querétaro state is full of surprises. Billed primarily as an agricultural and ranching region – with handsome and fast-developing Querétaro city as its capital – it is actually packed with diverse geography, quirky sights and historical gems. Natural phenomena, such as the world’s third-largest monolith, La Peña de Bernal, pre-Hispanic ruins and the stunning Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve are located within its borders. The reserve protects several mission towns, from where local people run some excellent, community-owned tourism ventures – a must for the more intrepid traveler.
Querétaro
%442 / Pop 879,000 / Elev 1800m
Wandering through the delightful colonial heart of Querétaro with its shady squares, grand fountains and historic mansions, you’d never guess that this is one of the fastest-growing cities in the northern hemisphere thanks to a booming aerospace and technologies industry. Except perhaps you can, as in order to reach the colonial heart of Querétaro, you’ll have to first pass through some fairly striking examples of urban sprawl and contend with the powerhouse city’s legendary bad traffic. However, it’s well worth the effort to do that, as Querétaro’s star is clearly in the ascendent, with an optimistic and mercantile population rising to the challenges of life in modern Mexico. The town’s historic heart is characterized by charming andadores (pedestrian streets), gorgeous plazas and historic churches. The sophisticated restaurants serve up quality cuisine and the many museums reflect Querétaro’s important role in Mexican history.
History
The Otomí founded a settlement here in the 15th century that was soon absorbed by the Aztecs, then by the Spaniards in 1531. Franciscan monks used it as a missionary base not only to Mexico but also to what is now southwestern USA. In the early 19th century, Querétaro became a center of intrigue among disaffected criollos plotting to free Mexico from Spanish rule. Conspirators, including Miguel Hidalgo, met secretly at the house of doña Josefa Ortiz (La Corregidora), who was the wife of Querétaro’s former corregidor (district administrator). When the conspiracy was uncovered, the story goes, doña Josefa was locked in her house (now the Palacio de Gobierno), but managed to whisper through a keyhole to a coconspirator, Ignacio Pérez, that their colleagues were in jeopardy, leading to Padre Hidalgo’s call to arms. This key event is still celebrated today as part of Mexico’s independence celebrations every September.
In 1917 the Mexican constitution was drawn up by the Constitutionalist faction in Querétaro. The PNR (which later became the PRI, the Institutional Revolutionary Party) was organized in Querétaro in 1929, and dominated Mexican politics for the rest of the 20th century.
1Sights
oMUCALMUSEUM
(map Google map Museo del Calendario; www.mucal.mx; Madero 91; M$25; 
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The first of its kind in the world, this extraordinary museum is the labor of love of its owner Señor Landin, whose family has been producing calendars in Mexico for decades. There are two parts to the museum: 19 exhibition rooms that house the original artworks (including reproductions) that featured in decades of Mexico’s calendars, along with over 400 original retro-style calendars themselves. The second is the building itself, a stunningly renovated mansion, complete with beautiful gardens and courtyards.
The outdoor areas and the excellent cafe set on its lawns provide a perfect oasis from the heat, and a place to reflect on the sometimes amusing (and often titillating and politically incorrect) retro calendar depictions.
MiradorVIEWPOINT
From this viewpoint there’s a fine view of ‘Los Arcos,’ Querétaro’s emblematic 1.28km-long aqueduct, with 74 towering sandstone arches built between 1726 and 1738. The aqueduct runs along the center of Avenida Zaragoza.
Templo y Convento de la Santa CruzCHURCH
(map Google map Independencia 148 at Felipe Luna; M$10; h9am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, to 5:15pm Sun)
One of the city’s most interesting sights, this convent was built between 1654 and about 1815 on the site of a battle in which a miraculous appearance of Santiago (St James) apparently led to the Otomí surrender to the conquistadors and Christianity. Emperor Maximilian had his headquarters here while under siege in Querétaro from March to May 1867. After his surrender and subsequent death sentence, he was jailed here while awaiting the firing squad.
Today it’s used as a religious school. You must visit with a guide – you wait at the entrance until a group has formed – although tours are in Spanish. The site’s main legend is the growth of the Árbol de la Cruz, an ancient tree in the convent’s garden, whose thorns are in the shape of crosses. This miracle was the result of a walking stick stuck in the earth by a pious friar in 1697.
Museo de Arte de QuerétaroMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museodeartequeretaro.com; Allende Sur 14; M$30, Tue free, photos M$15; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Querétaro’s art museum, adjacent to the Templo de San Agustín, occupies a splendid baroque monastery built between 1731 and 1748. It’s worth visiting to see the building alone: angels, gargoyles, statues and other ornamental details abound, particularly around the stunning courtyard. The ground-floor display of 16th- and 17th-century European paintings traces influences from Flemish to Spanish to Mexican art. Here, too, you’ll find 19th- and 20th-century Mexican paintings. The top floor has works from 16th-century Mannerism to 18th-century baroque.
Templo de Santa Rosa de ViterboCHURCH
(map Google map cnr Arteaga & Montes) 
F
The 18th-century Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbo is Querétaro’s most splendid baroque church, with its pagoda-like bell tower, unusual exterior paintwork, curling buttresses and lavishly gilded and marbled interior. The church also boasts what some say is the earliest four-sided clock in the New World.
Templo de San FranciscoCHURCH
(map Google map cnr Av Corregidora & Andador 5 de Mayo; h8am-9pm)
This impressive church fronts Jardín Zenea. Pretty colored tiles on the dome were brought from Spain in 1540, around the time construction of the church began. Inside are some fine religious paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
Museo Regional de QuerétaroMUSEUM
(map Google map cnr Av Corregidora 3 & Jardín Zenea; M$55; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The ground floor of this museum holds interesting exhibits on pre-Hispanic Mexico, archaeological sites, the Spanish occupation and the state’s various indigenous groups. The upstairs exhibits reveal Querétaro’s role in the independence movement and post-independence history. The table at which the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed in 1848, ending the Mexican– American War, is on display, as is the desk of the tribunal that sentenced Emperor Maximilian to death.
The museum is housed in part of what was once a huge monastery and seminary. Begun in 1540, the seminary became the seat of the Franciscan province of San Pedro y San Pablo de Michoacán by 1567. Building continued until at least 1727. Thanks to its high tower, in the 1860s the monastery was used as a fort both by forces supporting Maximilian and by those who defeated him in 1867.
Teatro de la RepúblicaTHEATER
(map Google map %442-212-03-39; cnr Juárez & Peralta; h10am-3pm & 5-8pm) F
This lovely old functioning theater, complete with impressive chandeliers, was where a tribunal met in 1867 to decide the fate of Emperor Maximilian. Mexico’s constitution was also signed here on January 31, 1917. The stage backdrop lists the names of its signatories and the states they represented. In 1929 politicians met in the theater to organize Mexico’s political party, the PNR (now called PRI).
Casa de la ZacatecanaHOUSE
(map Google map %442-224-07-58; www.museolazacatecana.com; Independencia 59; M$45; h10am-6pm)
This is a finely restored 17th-century home with an impressive collection of 18th- and 19th-century furniture and decorations, which veer between the chintzy and the austere (check out the wall of gruesome crucifixes). It’s a good place to get a sense of life in colonial-era Querétaro.
Monumento a la CorregidoraMONUMENT
(map Google map cnr Corregidora & Andador 16 de Sepiembre) F
Plaza de la Corregidora is dominated by the Monumento a la Corregidora, a 1910 statue of doña Josefa Ortiz bearing the flame of freedom. It’s a rather impressive and inspiring sight and there’s a busy book market that gathers here most days.
CathedralCATHEDRAL
(map Google map cnr Madero & Ocampo) F
The 18th-century cathedral features both baroque and neoclassical styles, with an emphasis on straight lines and few curves; it’s said that the first Mass in the cathedral (then known as San Felipe Neri) was led by Padre Hidalgo, of Independence fame.
Templo de Santa ClaraCHURCH
(map Google map cnr Madero & Allende)
The 17th-century Templo de Santa Clara has an extraordinarily ornate baroque interior. Masses are held frequently so you’ll have to inquire as to the best time to enter.
Mausoleo de la CorregidoraMAUSOLEUM
(map Google map Ejército Republicano s/n; h9am-6pm)
The Mausoleo de la Corregidora, opposite the mirador, is the final resting place of local independence heroes doña Josefa Ortiz and her husband, Miguel Domínguez de Alemán.
Museo de la CiudadMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museodelaciudadqro.org; Guerrero Norte 27; M$5; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Inside the ex-convent and old prison that held the deposed Emperor Maximilian, the 11-room Museo de la Ciudad has some good alternating contemporary art exhibits.
Fuente de NeptunoFOUNTAIN
(map Google map Neptune’s Fountain; cnr Madero & Allende)
CCourses
Olé Spanish Language SchoolLANGUAGE
(map %442-214-40-23; www.ole.edu.mx; Escobedo 32)
Offers a range of courses with homestay options and extracurricular programs. Week-long courses range from moderate group classes (15 hours; US$185) to 35-hour intensive courses (US$470).
4Sleeping
Santa Lucha HostelHOSTEL$
(map %442-214-36-45; www.santalucha.com; Hidalgo 47; dm/d from M$285/850; 
W)
This brightly painted Mexican wrestling-themed hostel has an enviable old-town location and is housed in a pleasantly converted building. All dorms and rooms – save one private – share bathrooms, but there are plenty of them and they’re clean. There’s a big kitchen and common area perfect for hanging out.
El Petate HostelHOSTEL$
(map %442-212-79-87; www.elpetatehostel.com; Matamoros 20; dm/d from M$200/500; W
#)
This hostel in a gorgeous little side street has been very attractively designed with clean and bright dorms and rooms, some of which have their own bathroom.
Blue Bicycle HouseHOSTEL$
(map Google map %442-455-48-13; www.bluebicyclehouse.com; Ejercito Republicano 15; dm M$230-250, d M$590-750; W)
Located just on the edge of the center, with a view of the aqueduct, the Blue Bicycle House (look for the bicycle hanging outside) is a highlight of Querétaro’s budget sleeping scene. It’s small and simple and offers dorms, including one for women only. Beds are long by Mexican standards and one-hour bike use is included in the price.
Hotel Quinta LuccaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %442-340-44-44; www.hotelquintalucca.com; Juárez Norte 119A; r M$990-1100, ste M$1200-1400; 
pW)
The spacious and good-value rooms here have Mexican-modern interiors and are sparkling clean. Those in the rear are more pleasant, and surround a luscious green courtyard, where a continental breakfast is served.
oLa Casa del AtrioB&B$$$
(map Google map %442-212-63-14; www.lacasadelatrio.com; Allende Sur 15; r M$1850-2750; W#)
This gorgeous spot has morphed from its original three-rooms-in-an-antique-store to a stunning boutique hotel, with 12 rooms, several glorious courtyard spaces and an on-site spa. The bilingual host, Antonio, will go out of his way to run a professional ship and ensure everything – from each artistic, art-filled room to the delicious breakfasts – are to your liking.
Rooms and bathrooms are spacious, though if you insist on open windows at night (all rooms feature massive doors, but not windows, that open on to courtyards), then communicate this on reservation. Otherwise it’s a win-win choice.
La Casa de los Dos LeonesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map %442-212-45-85; www.lacasadelosdosleones.com; Colón 4; r incl breakfast from M$2690; 
aW
s)
5Eating
oBretonFRENCH$
(map Google map Andador Libertad 82B; mains M$115-190; h8am-5pm Tue-Sat; W
v)
A delightful French bakery that has a lovely semi-open-air upstairs terrace. As well as doing excellent coffee and pastries to go, it serves up delicious breakfasts and lunches, including dishes such as beef bourguignon, steak frites and mussel marinara. Vegetarians and vegans are also lovingly catered for.
oLa MariposaCAFE$
(map Google map Peralta 7; snacks M$25-120; h8am-9:30pm)
Unchanged since 1940, as the photos and coffee machine testify, this Querétaro institution is more about the quaint atmosphere than the food. Don’t leave without trying the mouthwatering volteado de piña (a version of a pineapple cake) or the mantecado (egg-based ice cream).
La Vieja VarsoviaBAKERY$
(map Google map www.laviejavarsovia.com.mx; Plaza de los Fundadores; snacks M$50-150; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun)
This sweet cafe and bakery has tables scattered over the Plaza de los Fundadores and is a great place for breakfast before a day exploring the old city. Later on you can sample the scrumptious wood-fired pizzas with gourmet toppings.
La Biznarga Arte-CafeCAFE$
(map Google map Gutiérrez Najera 17; mains M$38-62; h9am-2pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat)
Their friends liked their cooking so much the owners of Biznarga opened their kitchen to the public. It’s a rather chaotic and dark place, but it’s also hugely popular and a fun experience, complete with graffiti, artworks and other paraphernalia on the walls. Salads, homemade pizzas, juices and more are all on the menu.
La AntojeríaMEXICAN$
(map Google map Calle 5 de Mayo; mains M$60-110; h10am-11pm; 
c)
This family-friendly, fun Mexican-themed place serves up every style of antojito (typical Mexican snacks) known in Mexico.
Restaurante Las MonjasMEXICAN$$
(map Ezequiel Montes 22; mains M$170-285; h7:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
You can almost feel the history in this deeply traditional Querétaro establishment, where charming and smartly dressed waiters attend the tables with relish and great expertise, which you’ll see on display when they prepare your salad right in front of you. The menu contains lots of local dishes, including a wonderful cazuela de quesillo fundido (melted-cheese stew with chorizo).
TikuaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %442-455-33-33; www.tikua.mx; Allende Sur 13; mains M$110-230; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; W)
This gorgeously set restaurant specializes in Southeastern Mexican cuisine and the dishes – from the xi’i, a mushroom salad, to the Oaxacan chorizo recipes – are true to their roots. The rice with chapulines (grasshoppers), tasajo (salted beef) and chocolate mole (a traditional sauce) are especially good. Serves up a mezcal menu and cocktails too.
Brewer Gastro PubINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map www.erlum.com.mx; Arteaga 55; mains M$130-235; h1pm-1am Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; W) 
S
This is what happens when a local artisanal brewer joins forces with a good eatery: a casual drinking spot that serves up fabulous brews, from honey IPAs (miel de abeja) to a mezcal beer mix (Agave Ale), to excellent dishes. The chef uses all local products of which the provenance is known. Excellent charcuterie, pizzas and salads.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There’s a thriving bar scene in Querétaro. Bars and clubs pack the historic center and beyond. Calle 5 de Mayo is the fashionable drinking strip in the center; barflies hit these places after 10pm.
oEl FaroBAR
(map Google map Calle 16 de Sepiembre 128)
A shining light on the local drinking scene, the Lighthouse exudes elements of old with a recent polish (it originally opened in 1927 and is believed to be the city’s oldest bar). The current owners took over in early 2015 so the interior is a little hipper for it. But the swinging cantina doors and friendly vibe are standing legacies. Guests are addressed by their first names, free bar snacks keep you standing and happy hour runs all afternoon.
Gracias a DiosBAR
(map Google map Calle 5 de Mayo; snacks M$60-120; h2pm-1:30am Tue-Sat)
One of the many bars near Calle 5 de Mayo, this place revives traditions of old: a cantina-botanero (bar with snacks) complete with barrels and stools and just a touch of grimy-bar-syndrome. However, it also has a touch of feminine funk and attracts a young crowd out for whiskey, tequila and brandy-fueled fun.
3Entertainment
Querétaro is action-packed with cultural activities. For the latest on what’s happening around town, look out for posters on bulletin boards, or pick up a copy of freebie listing mag Asomarte from the tourist office. On Sunday, free concerts usually take place in Plaza de Armas at 1pm and in the evenings in Jardín Zenea.
Teatro de la RepúblicaTHEATER
(map Google map cnr Juárez & Peralta; tickets M$80-200)
Has regular symphony concerts most Fridays.
Casa de la CulturaCONCERT VENUE
(map Google map %442-212-56-14; Calle 5 de Mayo 40; h9am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri)
Sponsors concerts, dance, theater and art events; stop by to view the bulletin board.
8Information
H+ Querétaro (%442-477-22-22; www.hmasqueretaro.mx; Zaragoza 16B) This private hospital comes recommended by expats.
Hospital Angeles (%442-192-30-00; www.hospitalangelesqueretaro.com; Bernardo Del Razo 21, El Ensueño) Southwest of Querétaro’s city center, this hospital has English-speaking doctors.
Tourist Office (%800-715-17-42, 442-238-50-67; www.queretaro.travel; Pasteur Norte 4; h9am-7pm) This helpful office has English-speaking staff and gives out free city maps and brochures, plus a useful publication Asomarte with listings of what’s on.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The Aeropuerto Intercontinental de Querétaro (%442-192-55-00; www.aiq.com.mx), 8km northeast of the downtown area, is around a M$300 taxi ride from the center. Primera Plus also runs from the bus terminal to Mexico City airport (M$365, three hours). As well as flights to Mexico City, there are direct services to various US cities from Querétaro.
BUS
Querétaro is a hub for buses in all directions; the modern Central Camionera (Parque del Cimatario) is 5km southeast of the center. There’s one building for deluxe and 1st class (labeled A), one for 2nd class (B) and another for local buses (C). Facilities include luggage storage.
BUSES FROM QUERéTARO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ciudad Valles | 735 | 7½ | 3 |
| Guadalajara | 410-620 | 4½-5½ | frequent |
| Guanajuato | 239 | 2½-3 | 7 |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 280-395 | 3-4½ | every 20min 4am-11:30pm |
| Mexico City Airport | 393 | 3½ | every 30min |
| Morelia | 219-305 | 3-4 | frequent |
| San Luis Potosí | 228-280 | 2½-2¾ | frequent |
| San Miguel de Allende | 74-130 | 1-1½ | every 40min 6am-11pm |
| Tequisquiapan | 50 | 1 | every 30min 6:30am-9pm |
| Xilitla | 355-400 | 5-8 | 4 |
8Getting Around
Once you have reached downtown, you can easily visit most sights on foot. City buses (M$9) run from 6am until 9pm or 10pm. They gather in an area at the end of the bus terminal; turn right from the 2nd-class terminal, or left from the 1st-class side. Several routes go to the center (the numbers change, so check.) For a taxi, get a ticket first from the bus station booth (M$50 for up to four people.)
To get to the bus station from the center, take city bus marked ‘Central’ (ie Central Camionera) from Calle Zaragoza, or any bus labeled ‘TAQ’ (ie Terminal de Autobuses de Querétaro) or ‘Central’ heading south on the east side of the Alameda Hidalgo.
Tequisquiapan
%414 / Pop 30,000 / Elev 1870m
This small town (teh-kees-kee-ap-an), 70km southeast of Querétaro, is a quaint weekend retreat from Mexico City or Querétaro. Once known for its thermal springs – Mexican presidents came here to ease their aches and stresses – the town’s natural pools may have long since dried up, but its pretty, bougainvillea-lined streets, colorful colonial buildings and excellent markets make for an enjoyable browse and the town comes alive on the weekend with couples and families wandering the streets and browsing the many artesanías stalls.
1Sights
Plaza Miguel HidalgoPLAZA
The wide and attractive Plaza Miguel Hidalgo is surrounded by portales (arcades) filled with bustling cafes and handicrafts stores, and overlooked by the 19th-century neoclassical La Parroquia de Santa María de la Asunción (h7:30am-8:30pm) with its pink facade and decorated tower.
Quinta Fernando SchmollGARDENS
(%441-276-10-71; Pilancon 1, Cadereyta de Montes; M$25; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
If you have your own wheels, this impressive botanical garden, with over 4400 varieties of cactus, is on the east edge of the village of Cadereyta de Montes. It’s 38km from Tequisquiapan.
2Activities
Horseback RidingHORSEBACK RIDING
(Fray Junípero; rides per hour M$80-100; h10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Guided trail rides around the surrounding countryside are offered at weekends. Guides and their hacks congregate on Fray Junípero, just north of Parque La Pila.
zFestivals & Events
Feria Nacional del Queso y del VinoFOOD & DRINK
(www.feriadelquesoyvino.com.mx; Parque La Pila; hmid-May–early Jun)
The National Wine & Cheese Fair, run by Tequisquiapan’s tourist office, has been running for over four decades and includes tastings, dinners and concerts over two weeks. Most events are ticketed; buy tickets on the website.
4Sleeping & Eating
The best budget accommodations are the posadas along Moctezuma. Demand is low Monday to Thursday, when you may be able to negotiate a discount.
Posada TequisquiapanGUESTHOUSE$
(%414-273-00-10; Moctezuma 6; s/d M$350/500; p)
With simple but spacious rooms set around a leafy courtyard complete with its own well, this is a great-value option. Breakfast is not included and you’ll need to find it elsewhere in town, as there’s no restaurant here.
La GranjaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%414-273-20-04; www.hotelboutiquelagranja.com; Morelos 12; r from M$1925; paWs)
Located in a pretty part of town, this colonial building has been renovated into an impressive hotel, though the rooms don’t quite live up to the promise of the very attractive public areas. There’s a large back garden with a pool and a big on-site restaurant, though breakfast is not included.
Madre SelvaPIZZA$$
(Niños Heroes 54; pizza M$110-170; h2-10pm Wed-Sun)
This rather charming pizzeria has a wood-fired oven and a big list of toppings to choose from to create your ideal pizza.
7Shopping
Mercado de ArtesaníasMARKET
(Carrizal; h8am-7pm)
This crafts market can be found a block north of Tequisquiapan’s main plaza.
8Information
Tourist office (%414-273-08-41; Plaza Miguel Hidalgo; h9am-7pm) Has town maps and information on Querétaro state.
8Getting There & Away
Tequisquiapan’s Terminal de Autobuses (Carretera San Juan del Río-Tequisquiapan 546) is around 2km north of the center in the new part of town. Local buses (M$8) from outside the bus station run to the markets on Carrizal, one block northeast of the Plaza Principal.
Flecha Azul runs half-hourly to/from Querétaro between 6:30am and 8pm (M$50, one hour). Buses also run regularly throughout the day to Ezequiel Montes (change here for Bernal; M$14, 20 minutes), and there’s also a direct bus to Bernal (M$35, one hour) at 5:40pm daily. ETN has deluxe buses to/from Mexico City’s Terminal Norte (M$280, three hours, eight daily). Coordinados (Flecha Amarilla) and Flecha Roja has 2nd-class services to the same destination (M$205, 3½ hours, regular departures). There are also three buses a day to Xilitla (M$322, five hours).
Jalpan
%441 / Pop 11,000 / Elev 760m
The attractive town of Jalpan centers on its famous mission church; the town is the gateway to the other four famous mission churches sprinkled liberally around the region. Jalpan itself is quite a charmer, with a lovely central square and an attractive hillside location. Not surprisingly, given its tropical climate, Jalpan specializes in artisanal – and very delicious – ice creams served in the many heladerías (ice-cream shops) around town.
1Sights
Mission ChurchCHURCH
Constructed by Franciscan monks and their indigenous converts in the 1750s, the original of the five missions in the Sierra Gorda is in the middle of the town of Jalpan. It has an elaborate exterior and is devoted to the first evangelist, James the Greater.
4Sleeping & Eating
Cabañas Centro TierraBUNGALOW$
(%441-296-07-00; www.sierragordaecotours.com; Centro Tierra Sierra Gorda, Av La Presa s/n, Barrio El Panteon; d M$600-750; W) S
The best budget choice in Jalpan, these simple but charming and comfortable rooms can be found in a pleasant garden site a 15-minute walk from the center of Jalpan, near the presa (reservoir). Ecologically sound construction has been carried out, all rooms have fans, and the bigger ones even have mezzanines and sleep up to five people in them.
oHotel Misión JalpanHOTEL$$
(%441-296-02-55; www.hotelesmision.com.mx; Fray Junípero Serra s/n; r from M$870; aWs)
On the west side of the Jardín Principal and right in the heart of the town, Hotel Misión Jalpan has attractive gardens and a good restaurant, plus well-cared for rooms that enjoy comfy mattresses and high-pressure showers. Prices are high on the weekend, but during the week it’s a great deal.
El Aguaje del MoroMEXICAN$$
(Vicente Guerrero 8; mains M$100-200; h7am-10:30pm Mon-Sat)
Famous for its exceptionally spicy enchiladas (though you’ll have to request spice – gringos automatically seem to get a fairly tame order unless they insist), this pleasant place has a breezy balcony with views toward the mountains, as well as over the main road. It’s a good-value and cozy place for a meal.
8Getting There & Away
Jalpan’s Terminal de Autobuses (Heroico Colegio Militar) has hourly services to Ciudad Valles (M$246, three hours) and Xilitla (M$92, 1¾ hours), as well as four services a day to San Luis Potosí (M$342, four hours).
There are also services to Mexico City’s Terminal Norte (M$415 to M$509, five hours, five daily), to Querétaro (M$343, 3½ hours, three daily) and to Tequisquiapan (M$235, 3¼ hours, four daily).
Bernal
%441 / Pop 4000
Dominated by the impressive Peña de Bernal, a giant rock that is the third-largest monolith in the world, pretty and quaint Bernal is a likable but otherwise fairly unremarkable town known locally for its cheese, candies and street food. The town comes to life during the weekends when it’s bursting with Mexican visitors; however, if you come during the week you’ll avoid the crowds and find a provincial town quietly going about its business.
Bernal has several lovely churches scattered around its old town and El Castillo, a 16th-century viceregal building. For a more in-depth explanation of the area, friendly La Peña Tours offers an array of tours (M$150 to M$700) plus climbing sessions on the Peña.
1Sights
Peña de BernalMOUNTAIN
This 350m-high rock spire is the third-largest monolith in the world and is considered mystical by many Mexicans. During the vernal equinox thousands of pilgrims converge on the rock to take in its positive energy. Visitors can climb to the rock’s halfway point (allow one hour both ways); only professional rock climbers can climb to its peak.
TTours
La Peña ToursTOURS
(%441-296-73-98, 441-101-48-21; www.lapeniatours.com; cnr Independencia & Colon)
The friendly Peña Tours offers an array of tours (M$170 to M$900), including a wine and cheese tour. They also offer climbing sessions on the Peña (half-day M$1500).
7Shopping
La AuroraARTS & CRAFTS
(Jardín Principal 1; h10am-8pm)
This interesting artesanías shop sells an array of rugs made on the premises; request permission to see the weavers at work at their looms in the workshop behind the shop.
8Getting There & Away
There are regular buses to/from Querétaro (around M$70, 45 minutes). The last return bus to Querétaro departs from the main road around 5:30pm. For connections to/from Tequisquiapan, change buses at Ezequiel Montes (M$15, 30 minutes).
GUANAJUATO STATE
POP 5.5 MILLION
The rocky highland state of Guanajuato is full of riches of every kind. In colonial times, mineral resources attracted Spanish prospectors to mine for silver, gold, iron, lead, zinc and tin. For two centuries the state produced enormous wealth, extracting up to 40% of the world’s silver. Silver barons in Guanajuato city enjoyed opulent lives at the expense of indigenous people who worked the mines, first as slaves and then later as wage slaves. Eventually, resenting the dominance of Spanish-born colonists, the well-heeled criollo class of Guanajuato and Querétaro states contributed to plans for rebellion.
These days, the state’s treasures are the quaint colonial towns of Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. Visitors to this region can enjoy its precious legacies: stunning colonial architecture, established cultural scenes and a stream of never-ending festivals…not to mention friendly, proud locals and a lively university atmosphere.
Guanajuato
%473 / Pop 155,000 / Elev 2045m
The extraordinary Unesco World Heritage city of Guanajuato was founded in 1559 due to the region’s rich silver and gold deposits. Opulent colonial buildings, stunning tree-filled plazas and brightly colored houses are crammed together on to the steep slopes of a narrow ravine where excellent museums, handsome theaters and a fine marketplace punctuate cobblestone streets. The city’s main roads twist around the hillsides and plunge into long dank subterranean tunnels, formerly rivers.
The city is best known internationally for its acclaimed annual arts event, the Festival Cervantino. Yet this colorful and lively place holds center stage all year; much of the youthful vibrancy and prolific cultural activities – callejoneadas, films, theater and orchestras – can be attributed to the 20,000 students of the city’s own University of Guanajuato. In short, Guanajuato is the state’s slightly gritty but fascinating capital city and should not be missed by anyone traveling in the region.
History
One of the hemisphere’s richest silver veins was uncovered in 1558 at La Valenciana mine; for 250 years the mine produced 20% of the world’s silver. Colonial barons benefiting from this mineral treasure were infuriated when King Carlos III of Spain slashed their share of the wealth in 1765. The King’s 1767 decree banishing the Jesuits from Spanish dominions further alienated both the wealthy barons and the poor miners, who held allegiance to the Jesuits.
This anger was focused in the War of Independence. In 1810 rebel leader Miguel Hidalgo set off the independence movement with his Grito de Independencia (Cry for Independence) in nearby Dolores. Guanajuato citizens joined the independence fighters and defeated the Spanish and loyalists, seizing the city in the rebellion’s first military victory. When the Spaniards eventually retook the city they retaliated by conducting the infamous ‘lottery of death,’ in which names of Guanajuato citizens were drawn at random and the ‘winners’ were tortured and hanged. Independence was eventually won, freeing the silver barons to amass further wealth. From this wealth arose many of the mansions, churches and theaters.
Guanajuato
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
oMuseo y Casa de Diego RiveraMUSEUM
(map Google map Positos 47; M$20; h10am-6:30pm Tue-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun)
Diego Rivera’s birthplace is now an excellent museum honoring the famous artist, who was persona non grata here for years. It’s worth spending an hour here – longer if you’re a Rivera fan. Rivera and his twin brother were born in the house in 1886 (Carlos died at the age of two) and lived here until the family moved to Mexico City six years later. The museum’s ground floor is a recreation of the Rivera family home, furnished with 19th-century antiques.
The labyrinth of upper floors exhibit a permanent collection of his original works and preliminary sketches (completed for some of his famous murals in Mexico City), plus there’s a nude of Frida Kahlo. Several salas also host temporary exhibitions of work by Mexican and international artists. An intimate theater upstairs features black-and-white photographs of Kahlo and Rivera.
oTemplo La ValencianaCHURCH
(Iglesia de San Cayetano)
On a hill overlooking Guanajuato, 5km north of the center, is the magnificent Templo La Valenciana. Its facade is spectacular and its interior dazzles with ornate golden altars, filigree carvings and giant paintings. Ground was broken here in 1765 and the church was completed in 1788.
One legend says that the Spaniard who started the nearby San Ramón mine promised San Cayetano that if it made him rich, he would build a church to honor the saint. Another says that the silver baron of La Valenciana, Conde de Rul, tried to atone for exploiting the miners by building the ultimate in Churrigueresque churches.
oTeatro JuárezTHEATER
(map Google map Sopeña s/n; M$35; h9am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun)
Don’t leave Guanajuato without visiting the magnificent Teatro Juárez. It was built between 1873 and 1903 and inaugurated by the dictator Porfirio Díaz, whose lavish tastes are reflected in the plush red-and-gold interior. The outside features 12 columns with brass capitals, lamp posts and eight of the nine muses; inside the impression is Moorish, with the bar and lobby gleaming with carved wood, stained glass and precious metals. It’s only open when no performances are scheduled.
oBasílica de Nuestra Señora de GuanajuatoCHURCH
(map Google map Plaza de la Paz)
The attractive and arresting Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato contains a jewel-covered image of the Virgin, patron of Guanajuato. The wooden statue was supposedly hidden from the Moors in a cave in Spain for 800 years. Felipe II of Spain gave it to Guanajuato in thanks for the wealth it provided to the crown. Next door, the small Galería Mariana is dedicated to images of Mary and other Catholic relics.
DON’T MISS
COLONIAL CHURCHES
Aside from the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, other fine colonial churches include Templo de San Diego (map Google map Jardín de la Union s/n), opposite the Jardín de la Unión; Templo de San Francisco (map Google map Doblado s/n); and large Templo de la Compañía de Jesús (map Google map Lascuraín de Retana s/n), which was completed in 1747 for the Jesuit seminary whose buildings are now occupied by the University of Guanajuato.
Parador Turístico Sangre de CristoMUSEUM
(Carretera Silao Km 8; adult/student M$50/30; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
Three museums are sited in one impressively designed complex in the hills above Guanajuato. One collection explores the mining history of the region. The second has 36 mummies discovered in local churches (they look pretty gruesome so consider missing this one if you have young children with you). The last looks at Day of the Dead celebrations and the Catrina dolls (an image/figurine of a skeleton in female clothing) that are a key part of the tradition. Shops and a cafe are on site. To get here, take a ‘Cristo Rey’ bus, which depart every hour or so from near Alhóndiga (M$40 return).
Casa de Arte Olga Costa & José Chávez MoradoMUSEUM
(Pastita 158, Torre del Arco; adult/student M$20/5; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
In 1966 artists José Chávez Morado and Olga Costa converted a massive old well into their home and studio; before their deaths, they donated their home and its contents for public use. On display is a small, but fascinating, collection of items from the 16th to 18th centuries, including pre-Hispanic and modern ceramics, embroidery, furniture, masks and their own artworks. It’s worth heading to the ‘suburb’ of Pastita to experience a side of Guanajuato you might otherwise miss.
The pretty approach follows the former aqueduct that ends at their house. Take any bus marked ‘Pastita’ from the eastern end of town.
Monumento a El PípilaMONUMENT
(map Google map Panoramica)
The monument to El Pípila honors the hero who torched the Alhóndiga gates on September 28, 1810, enabling Hidalgo’s forces to win the first victory of the independence movement. The statue shows El Pípila holding his torch high over the city. On the base is the inscription Aún hay otras Alhóndigas por incendiar (There are still other Alhóndigas to burn).
Two routes from the center of town go up steep, picturesque lanes. One goes east on Sopeña from Jardín de la Unión, then turns right on Callejón del Calvario (this becomes Pochote; turn right at Subida San Miguel). Another ascent, unmarked, goes uphill from the small plaza on Alonso. Alternatively, the ‘Pípila-ISSSTE’ bus heading west on Avenida Juárez will let you off right by the statue, or you can ride up in the funicular.
Museo de las MomiasMUSEUM
(Museum of the Mummies; www.momiasdeguanajuato.gob.mx; Explanada del Pantéon Municipal s/n; adult/student M$55/36; h9am-6pm)
This famous museum is one of the most bizarre (some might say distasteful) sights at the panteón (cemetery). The popular attraction is a quintessential example of Mexico’s acceptance of, celebration of and obsession with death; visitors come from all over to see more than 100 disinterred corpses.
While technically these are mummified remains – due to the dry atmosphere in their former crypts – the bodies are not thousands of years old. The first remains were unearthed in 1865 to make room for more bodies in the cemeteries. What the authorities uncovered were not skeletons but mummified flesh (many feature grotesque forms and facial expressions).
The complex is on the western edge of town, a 10-minute ride from Avenida Juárez on any ‘Momias’ bus (M$6).
Bocamina de San Ramón & Bocamina de San CayetanoMINE
(www.bocaminasanramon.com; M$35; h10am-6pm)
These neighboring mines are part of the famous Valenciana mining district. Silver was discovered here in 1548. At San Ramón you can descend via steps into a mine shaft to a depth of 60m (note: not for claustrophobes). San Cayetano has an interesting museum and former miners take you on a brief tour – including a shaft visit.
To reach the mines, take a ‘Cristo Rey’ or ‘Valenciana’ bus from the bus stop on the corner of Alhóndiga and Calle 28 de Septiembre. Get off at Templo La Valenciana and follow the signs behind the church.
Cristo ReyMONUMENT
Cristo Rey (Christ the King) is a 20m bronze statue of Jesus erected in 1950 on the summit of the Cerro de Cubilete, 15km west of Guanajuato. The location of the statue at the supposed geographical center of the country holds particular significance for Mexican tourists, with impressive views an added draw. Tour agencies offer trips here, but you can also simply take a bus marked ‘Cubilete’ or ‘Cristo Rey,’ departing every hour or so from near Alhóndiga (M$40 return).
Museo del Pueblo de GuanajuatoMUSEUM
(map Google map Positos 7; adult M$20; h10am-6:30pm Tue-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun)
Located beside the university, this fascinating art museum displays an exquisite collection of Mexican miniatures, and 18th- and 19th-century artworks by Guanajuatan painters Hermenegildo Bustos and José Chávez Morado, plus temporary exhibitions. It occupies the former mansion of the Marqueses de San Juan de Rayas, who owned the San Juan de Rayas mine. The private baroque chapel (built 1696) upstairs in the courtyard contains an interesting three-paneled mural by José Chávez Morado depicting the Spanish colonization.
Jardín de la ReformaSQUARE
This attractive cafe-lined and shady square is Guanajuato’s social hub and is packed full of locals, mariachis and tourists throughout the day.
Jardín de la UniónPLAZA
(map)
This triangular plaza is lined by cafes, bars and restaurants and full of shade-giving trees in a neatly maintained garden.
Museo Regional de Guanajuato Alhóndiga de GranaditasMUSEUM
(map Google map %473-732-11-12; Calle 28 de Sepiembre; M$52, camera/video M$30/60; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun)
Built between 1798 and 1808 as a grain storehouse, the Alhóndiga became a fortress in 1810 when 300 Spanish troops and loyalist leaders barricaded themselves inside after 20,000 rebels led by Miguel Hidalgo attempted to take Guanajuato. On September 28, 1810, a young miner nicknamed El Pípila tied a stone slab to his back and, thus protected from Spanish bullets, set the entrance ablaze. The rebels moved in and killed everyone inside.
The Alhóndiga was later used as an armory, then a school, before it was a prison for 80 years (1864–1948). It became a museum in 1958, though it’s arguably more interesting for its history than its display today. Don’t miss José Chávez Morado’s dramatic murals of Guanajuato’s history on the staircases.
Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de BarreraMUSEUM, GARDEN
(Camino Antiguo a Marfil Km 2.5; adult M$30; h9am-6pm)
To escape Guanajuato’s narrow streets, head to this magnificent colonial home that is now a museum with tranquil and attractive gardens. Built at the end of the 17th century, this was the grand hacienda of Captain Gabriel de Barrera, whose family was descended from the first Conde de Rul of the famous La Valenciana mine. Opened as a museum in 1979, the hacienda, with its opulent period European furnishings, provides an insight into noble lifestyles of the viceregal period.
The hacienda is 2.5km west of the city center. Take one of the frequent ‘Marfil’ buses heading west in the subterranean tunnel under Avenida Juárez and ask the driver to drop you at Hotel Misión Guanajuato.
Callejón del BesoSTREET
(map Google map Alley of the Kiss)
Narrowest of the many alleyways in Guanajuato’s streets is this callejón, where the balconies of two houses practically touch. In a local legend, a fine family once lived on this street and their daughter fell in love with a common miner. They were forbidden to see each other, but the miner rented a room opposite and the lovers exchanged furtive besos (kisses) from these balconies. Inevitably, the romance was discovered and the couple met a tragic end.
From the Plazuela de los Ángeles on Avenida Juárez, walk about 40m up Callejón del Patrocinio to see the tiny alley on your left.
Universidad de GuanajuatoNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map UGTO; www.ugto.mx; Lascuraín de Retana 5)
The main building of this university, whose ramparts are visible above much of the city, is one block up the hill from the basilica. The distinctive multistory white-and-blue building with the crenelated pediment dates from the 1950s. The design was (and some might say continues to be) controversial, as this dominating structure disrupts the characteristic, historic cityscape, but it’s unusual enough to be worth searching out.
Museo Iconográfico del QuijoteMUSEUM
(map Google map %473-732-67-21; www.museoiconografico.guanajuato.gob.mx; Manuel Doblado 1; adult/student M$30/10; h9:30am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-7pm Sun)
This surprisingly interesting museum is worth half-hour of your time. Every exhibit relates to Don Quixote de la Mancha, Cervantes’ classic literary hero, depicted in numerous different media by different artists in different styles. Paintings, statues, tapestries, even chess sets, clocks and postage stamps and all feature the quixotic icon and his bumbling companion Sancho Panza.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
RESERVA DE LA BIOSFERA SIERRA GORDA
The Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra Gorda, in the rugged Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range, covers a huge swath of the northeastern third of Querétaro state. Known as the ‘green jewel’ of central Mexico, the reserve boasts 15 vegetation types, making it the most ecosystem-diverse protected area in the country. Its stunning wilderness areas encompass old-growth cloud forests, semideserts and tropical forests; jaguars, rare orchids and endemic cacti are just some of the fauna and flora on offer here.
Over the past few years, sustainable ecotourism projects have been established, with varying success. Travelers can head into villages with local guides, stay in basic cabins and camping areas, and partake in a range of activities. These include hikes to waterfalls, rafting, rappeling and kayaking. Many communities here have functioning workshops that produce pottery, natural remedies, dried foodstuffs, honey products and embroidery.
Several companies offer trips in the reserve:
Aventúrate (%441-296-07-14, cell 441-1033129; www.aventurate.mx; Benito Juárez 29) This professional outfit has young, enthusiastic and experienced guides who will take you to any number of local sights: the missions (M$1800 for two people including transportation and guide), Río Escanela (to Puente de Dios), El Chuveje waterfall, Sotano de Barro, Las Pozas and more. It is also the only operator that takes trips to Gruta Jalpan, the local cave.
Sierra Gorda Eco Tours (%441-296-02-42, 441-296-07-00; www.sierragordaecotours.com; Av La Presa s/n, Barrio El Panteón) Promotes programs within local communities. Prices start at M$1700 per person (based on two people) including transportation, accommodations, meals and activities, entrance fee, plus community guide (where necessary). At least a day’s notice is required, a week in high season. Guides speak English.
Arnoldo Montes Rodríguez (%441-108-88-24, 441-101-81-31; www.sierragordaguides.com) One of Jalpan’s original independent guides who can show you the missions. Located in what’s billed as a tourist office inside the Hotel Misión Jalpan, it’s actually a shop from where excursions are sold.
2Activities
oFunicularFUNICULAR
(map Google map Plaza Constancia s/n; one-way/round-trip M$25/50; h8am-9:45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9:45pm Sat, 10am-8:45pm Sun)
This incline railway inches up (and down) the slope behind the Teatro Juárez to a terminal near the El Pípila monument, from where there are stunning views of Guanajuato and the surrounding valley. Heading up is fun, but to descend, you can save your pennies by walking down one of the two obvious, well-paved routes.
CCourses
Guanajuato is a university town and has an excellent atmosphere for studying Spanish. Group classes range from around US$160 to US$220 for 20 lessons (one week’s worth) and private lessons average US$20 an hour. Schools can arrange homestays with meals for around US$200 per week. Language schools to consider include Adelita (%473-732-64-55; www.learnspanishadelita.com; Agua Fuerte 56), Don Quijote (%cell 923-268860; www.donquijote.org; Calle Pastita 76, Barrio Pastita) and Escuela Falcon (map %473-732-65-31; www.escuelafalcon.com; Callejón de Gallitos).
Mika Matsuishi & Felipe Olmos WorkshopsCOURSE
(%cell 473-1204299; www.felipeymika.wix.com/mojigangas)
Hands-on, fun art workshops for creative souls (mask-making, clay classes etc) are run by talented artists and mojiganga (farce) specialists. Materials are included; prices vary according to activity.
zFestivals & Events
oFestival Internacional CervantinoART
(www.festivalcervantino.gob.mx; hOct)
Beginning in the 1950s as merely entremeses (interludes) from Miguel Cervantes’ work performed by students, the Festival Internacional Cervantino has grown to become one of Latin America’s foremost arts extravaganzas. Music, dance and theater groups from around the world perform diverse works (mostly non-Cervantes related) for two weeks in October.
Tickets for single events range from M$30 to M$650 and should be booked in advance (www.ticketmaster.com.mx) along with hotels. In Guanajuato, tickets are available from a booth by Teatro Juarez two months before the festival.
Baile de las FloresRELIGIOUS
(hMar or Apr)
The Flower Dance takes place on the Thursday before Semana Santa. The next day, mines are open to the public for sightseeing and celebrations. Miners decorate altars to La Virgen de los Dolores, a manifestation of the Virgin Mary who looks after miners.
Fiestas de San Juan y Presa de la OllaRELIGIOUS
(hlate Jun-early Jul)
The festivals of San Juan are celebrated at the Presa de la Olla park in late June. The 24th is the big bash for the saint’s day itself, with dances, music, fireworks and picnics. Then on the first Monday in July, everyone comes back to the park for another big party celebrating the opening of the dam’s floodgates.
4Sleeping
Guanajuato has some excellent accommodations for all budgets. Particularly atmospheric are a number of midrange and top-end hotels and guesthouses in the old town. During the Festival Internacional Cervantino in October, and at Christmas, Semana Santa and, in some cases, summer vacation, prices may be hiked well above regular rates.
Corral d ComediasHOSTEL$
(map %473-732-40-54; Av María 17; dm/d M$200/650; W)
This hostel joined the scene in 2016 and is run by volunteers whose presence makes it feel like more of a hangout than traditional hostel setup. There’s lots of communal space and lounging room, and breakfast is great. Some of the three dorms and one private room are a little on the simple side, but the location is excellent.
Hostel La Casa del TíoHOSTEL$
(map Google map %473-733-97-28; www.hostellacasadeltio.com.mx; Cantarranas 47; dm/r M$190/560; W)
The sweet and simple rooms here are clean, even if many lack natural light. Fear not though: there’s a brightly painted roof terrace and it’s centrally located in the heart of Guanajuato. The upstairs dorms get more light and a good breakfast is included.
El Zopilote MojadoHOTEL$$
(map %473-732-53-11; www.elzopilotemojado.com; De Mexiamora 51; r M$1400; W)
This welcoming place has traditional fan-cooled rooms in a converted old colonial home, many of which feature lovely colorful tiling, wooden furniture and (from some) views on to a delightful square. There’s a cafe downstairs where breakfast can be had, though it’s not included in the room rate.
Casa ZunigaB&B$$
(map Google map %473-732-85-46; www.casazunigagto.com; Callejón del Pachote 38; r incl breakfast from M$1250; pWs)
This charming B&B is run by the charismatic duo Carmen and Rick, who are famous for their warm welcome and generous breakfasts. It’s located on the hill near El Pípila, to the left of the funicular (heading uphill), or by car and bus along Panoramica. Rates include a funicular pass throughout your stay. The lap pool is a plus.
Mesón de los PoetasHOTEL$$
(map Google map %473-732-07-05; www.mesondelospoetas.com; Positos 35; r M$1200-3500; 
nW)
Built against the hillside, this hotel’s labyrinth of rooms – each named after a poet – offers spacious, comfortable and very clean lodgings. While natural light is limited, it’s good value and service is friendly. We particularly like rooms 401, 402 and 403, which share a sunny terrace.
oHotel Villa María CristinaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%473-731-21-82; www.villamariacristina.net; Paseo de la Presa de la Olla 76; ste M$5300-12,100; Ws)
This series of stunning converted colonial mansions, joined by a maze of patios and gardens, is one of Guanajuato’s most exclusive addresses. The decor in the spacious rooms features neoclassical French designer furniture, original paintings by local artist Jesús Gallardo, and beds and bathrooms with all the fluffy trimmings. There are fountains, two swimming pools and wonderful views. It’s in La Presa, a 15-minute walk from the center of Guanajuato.
1850 HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %473-732-27-95; www.hotel1850.com/index.php/en; Jardín de la Unión 7; r M$2950-4550; aW)
In a marvelous location right on El Jardín and equipped with double-glazed windows to ensure the sound of the mariachis doesn’t reach your bedroom, this is one of the smartest addresses in town. The decor is sleek and smart in a converted mansion with lots of silver and contemporary sculptures. Each room is individually designed and the rooftop bar is unbeatable.
Alonso10 Hotel Boutique & ArteBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %473-732-76-57; www.hotelalonso10.com.mx; Alonso 10; ste M$2950-3500; aW)
A stylish boutique hotel located a street away from the centralized chaos. White and taupe hues rule, as do smart rooms with all the trimmings. The front two suites have great balconies with quirky views of the basilica and the back of Teatro Juárez. Downstairs is an elegant restaurant and bar with a fabulous wine cellar.
5Eating
Eating in Guanajuato won’t blow your culinary world apart; options are limited. Having said that, there are a few superb exceptions. For fresh produce and cheap lunches, head to Mercado Hidalgo, a five-minute walk west of Jardín de la Unión on Avenida Juárez. Another two blocks further down on the right is Central Comercio (map Google map Av Juárez; h8am-8pm), with a large supermarket.
oLa Vie en RoseFRENCH$
(map Google map Cantarranas 18; pastries & snacks M$30-80; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun; W)
At this old-town institution you’ll find some of the most genuine, mouthwatering, flavorsome French pastries and desserts around. All made by a French pastry chef.
oDelica MitsuJAPANESE$
(map Google map Cantaritos 37; sushi M$43-93; hnoon-6pm Mon-Sat)
This tiny Japanese-run deli may not look like much (and is all but hidden in a side street off a pretty plaza), but it serves up some of the biggest, freshest and best Japanese flavors around.
EscarolaINTERNATIONAL$
(map Positos 38; mains M$40-70; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; Wv) S
This excellent little place in the middle of the old town makes for a superb lunch stop. Food is prepared from scratch, however, so don’t come here if you’re in a hurry, but rather enjoy the pleasant sun-dappled terrace and the delicious offerings of burgers, sandwiches, salads and soups.
Café TalCAFE$
(map Google map Temezcuitate 4; snacks M$30-50; h7am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)
Spread over two buildings on either side of a steep, narrow side street, this student favorite is always busy with modish young things who love the owners’ passion for roasting coffee right here on the premises. Don’t miss the beso negro (‘black kiss’), ultra-concentrated hot chocolate (M$20). If you’re lucky, Tal the cat might sit on your lap.
Santo CaféCAFE$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/santocafe; Puente de Campanero; mains M$50-150; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun; Wv)
Stop by this casual but cozy spot on the quaint Venetian-style bridge and check the latest university vibe. It serves good salads and snacks; try the queso fundido (melted cheese) or the soy burger, both great for vegetarians. Some tables overlook the alley below.
oLos CamposTAPAS$$
(map Google map www.loscampos.mx; 4A de la Alameda, off Plaza Baratillo; mains M$75-185; h2-10pm Tue-Sun)
A Canadian-Mexican husband-and-wife team runs this small cozy, candlelit restaurant. The innovative menu, which runs from tapas plates to full dishes such as stuffed ancho chili on a bed of pearl barley with huitlacoche (corn mushrooms), nopal and corn, is a cut above other Guanajuato eateries in terms of variety and ingredients. Reserve ahead for evenings.
A PuntoINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %473-732-61-32; Casa Cuatro, San José 4; M$180-310; h2-10pm Tue & Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sun)
Located in the restored Casa Cuatro mansion complex, this is among Guanajuato’s most cosmopolitan spots and serves up good international dishes. It’s a great choice for a long lunch or dinner, and you can also come just for drinks.
MestizoINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %473-732-06-12; Positos 69; mains M$120-280; h1-10pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; W)
There’s interesting art on the walls, a great menu and three breezy dining rooms, not to mention changing daily specials, so why is the lighting so poor and the carpeting so ugly? Yes, Guanajuato’s eating scene has a long way to go to catch up with other cities in Mexico, but this place does at least do some tasty cuisine.
Casa ValadezMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %473-732-03-11; Jardín de la Unión 3; mains M$150-800; h8:30am-11pm; W)
This classic place enjoys an impressive perch on Jardín de la Unión and is a smart choice in every respect. As you’d expect, it attracts a loyal crowd of well-dressed locals who like to see and be seen. Servings are generous. Dishes are mainly international with a few Mexican favorites such as pollo con enchiladas mineras (chicken enchiladas).
oEl Jardín de los MilagrosMEXICAN$$$
(%473-732-93-66; www.eljardindelosmilagros.com.mx; Calzada Alhondiga 80; mains M$230-350; h1:30-10pm Wed-Mon; W)
This superb place is hidden away from the busy road outside by thick walls that encircle an ancient hacienda and well-tended garden. It’s a stunning setting, whether you eat outside or in one of the charming hacienda dining rooms. Staff are incredibly solicitous and the food is an epic tour de force of creatively presented high-style Mexican cookery with international elements.
oLas MercedesMEXICAN$$$
(%473-733-90-59; www.casamercedes.com.mx; Arriba 6, San Javier; mains M$200-350; h2-10pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; W)
In a residential area overlooking the city is Guanajuato’s best restaurant, where Mexican cuisine como la abuela – grandmother’s cooking that takes hours to prepare – is served. Dishes include moles hand-ground in a molcajete (traditional mortar and pestle) with a contemporary twist and stylish presentation. Reservations recommended. Take a taxi to get here.
El Midi BistróFRENCH$$$
(map Google map Casa Cuatro, San José 4; mains M$230-300; h9am-10pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; W)
This tastefully decorated part-bistro, part-bar on the top floor of a gorgeously restored mansion serves up a delectable array of à la carte French classic dishes including beef bourguignon, duck confit and bouillabaisse. There’s live music on Thursday evenings and brunch served daily (9am to 2pm). All in all one of the town’s most pleasant places to kick back.
CALLEJONEADOS – THE TRADITIONAL WAY TO PARTY
The callejoneada tradition is said to have come from Spain. A group of professional singers and musicians, dressed in traditional costumes, starts up in a central location such as a plaza, a crowd gathers, then the whole mob winds through the alleyways, streets and plazas playing, dancing and singing heartily. In Guanajuato they are also called estudiantinas. Stories and jokes (in Spanish) are told in between songs, often relating to the legends of the alleys. In Zacatecas there are no stories, but hired bands called tamboras (dressed in uniform, not traditional attire) lead dancing revelers. On special occasions a burro laden with wine is brought along. Often, strangers are just expected to join the party and the crowd swells. Occasionally, the organizers foot the bill; sometimes you pay a small amount for the wine you drink (or you bring your own). In Guanajuato the groups themselves or tour companies sell tickets (around M$100 for 1¼ hours; Tuesday through Sunday) for the callejoneadas and juice (not alcohol) is provided. It’s great fun.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Every evening, the Jardín de la Unión comes alive with people crowding the outdoor tables, strolling and listening to the street musicians and mariachi bands. The city’s immense student population means that there is a very busy and accessible bar scene in town. Thursday is generally their big night out, though drinking and dancing establishments in Guanajuato generally start late.
Los LobosBAR
(map Doblado 2; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun)
This cool, gay-friendly place is decked out with images of devils and Catrinas (skeleton dolls) plastered on every available surface. The crowd is far less ghoulish, however, and there’s a great soundtrack and a pool table in the back room.
GolemBAR
(map Google map Cantarranas 38; h6:30pm-3am Mon-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun)
This punk bar is a veritable maze of rooms with foosball, repurposed airplane seats and Anglo-indie music on the speakers. Margaritas are served in champagne glasses, and upstairs there’s more of the same plus a roof terrace. It’s definitely one of Guanajuato’s liveliest spots.
Why Not?CLUB
(map Google map Alfonso 34; h9:30pm-3am Mon-Sat)
You may not be asking yourself ‘why not?’ after you wake up with a throbbing headache from drinking all night with the hordes of local students who head to this Guanajuato institution (especially Thursday to Saturday, when it’s packed). The fun starts after midnight.
La Inundación de 1905BAR
(map Google map San Fernando Plaza; h10am-midnight Tue-Sun)
Students love this relaxed spot, named after the city’s 1905 flood, for its flowing beer and the beer-garden atmosphere.
El Midi BistróBAR
(map Google map Casa Cuatro, San José 4; h9am-10pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This pleasant place, which is also an upmarket restaurant, is housed in a refurbished mansion. It offers a touch of class and culture with frequent live-music performances and exhibitions in its next-door gallery space, as well as a fabulous old-fashioned bar. It’s is a relaxing spot to head to for a pre- or post-dinner drink.
El IncendioBAR
(map Google map Cantarranas 39; h11am-11pm)
A former old-school cantina – whose legacy is swinging doors, an open urinal (as per the old cantinas, but no longer used) and mural-covered walls – that caters to a fun and rowdy student crowd.
WhoopeesBAR
(map Google map Manuel Doblado 39; h9pm-4am Tue-Sat)
This friendly bar is the center of Guanajuato’s gay scene.
3Entertainment
Teatro CervantesTHEATER
(map Google map %473-732-11-69; Plaza Allende s/n)
Has a full schedule of performances during the Cervantino festival and less regular shows at other times. Statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza grace the small Plaza Allende, in front of the theater.
7Shopping
Xocola-TFOOD
(map Google map Plazuela del Baratillo 15; hnoon-8pm Mon, 9am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
This chocoholic’s nirvana sells delectable handmade chocolates of pure cocoa with natural flavors and not a trans fat in sight. Quirkier fillings include chapulines (grasshoppers), gusanos (caterpillars) and nopal (cactus).
Mercado HidalgoMARKET
(map Google map Av Juárez; h8am–9pm)
Guanajuato’s atmospheric and bustling market is chockablock with tourist paraphernalia, artisan’s products and food stalls. It’s well worth a visit.
8Information
Incredibly, the only formal information points in Guanajuato are two small tourist kiosks, located at Jardín de la Unión (h9am-6pm) and an extension of this, in Calle Allende. Note: do not confuse these with official-looking booths marked ‘Information Turística’ that are dotted around town. The latter are private companies touting specific hotels and other services.
Banks along Avenida Juárez change cash, offer advances on credit cards and have ATMs.
Centro Médico la Presa (%473-102-31-00; www.centromedicolapresa.mx; Paseo de la Presa 85; h24hr)
Hospital General (%473-733-15-73, 473-733-15-76; Carretera a Silao, Km 6.5)
Post Office (Ayuntamiento 25; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Guanajuato is served by the Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato (Aeropuerto Internacional del Bajío; %472-748-21-20; www.aeropuertosgap.com.mx; Silao), which is about 30km west of the city, near the town of Silao.
BUS
Guanajuato’s Central de Autobuses (%473-733-13-44; Silao 450) is around 5km southwest of town (confusingly, to get there you go northwest out of town along Tepetapa). Deluxe and 1st-class bus tickets (ETN and Primera Plus) can be bought in town at Viajes Frausto (%473-732-35-80; www.frausto.agenciasviajes.mx; Obregón 10; h9am-2pm & 4:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1:30pm Sat).
Primera Plus and ETN are the main 1st-class operators, while Flecha Amarilla has cheaper services to Dolores Hidalgo, León and San Miguel de Allende.
BUSES FROM GUANAJUATO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dolores Hidalgo | 60 | 1½ | every 30min 5:30am-10:30pm |
| Guadalajara | 420-515 | 4 | frequent |
| León | 75-98 | 1-1¼ | very frequent |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 540-680 | 4½ | very frequent |
| Querétaro | 200-230 | 2½ | frequent |
| San Miguel de Allende | 130-170 | 1½-2 | very frequent |
| Zacatecas | 465 | 4 | daily at 12:15pm |
8Getting Around
A taxi to Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato will cost about M$400 (there’s a set rate of M$450 from the airport; you buy your ticket at a taxi counter inside the airport). A cheaper option from Guanajuato is one of the frequent buses to Silao (M$30, every 20 minutes) and a taxi from there (around M$120). Note: in reverse – from the airport to Silao – the taxi rates are set at M$250.
Between the bus station and downtown, ‘Central de Autobuses’ buses (M$6) run round the clock. From the center, you can catch them heading west on Avenida Juárez. From the bus terminal, you will enter a tunnel running east under the centro histórico. Alight at one of several entry/exit points: Mercado Hidalgo, Plaza de los Ángeles, Jardín de la Unión, Plaza Baratillo/Teatro Principal, Teatro Cervantes or Embajadoras. A taxi to/from the bus station costs around M$50.
To get around town keep a look out – local buses display their destination. For the centro histórico the rule of thumb is as follows: all buses heading east go via the tunnels below Avenida Juárez (eg if you want to go from the market to the Teatro Principal). Those heading west go along Avenida Juárez.
City buses (M$6) run from 7am to 10pm. Taxis are plentiful in the center and charge about M$40 for short trips around town (slightly more if heading uphill to El Pípila and the like).
Buses to Bocamina San Ramón and Bocamina de San Cayetano (Insurgencia) leave from Calle Insurgencia near Plaza Alhóndiga.
León
%477 / Pop 1.5 million / Elev 1815m
There’s no real reason to visit industrial León, 56km west of Guanajuato, but due to its importance as a main bus hub within the state of Guanajuato you may well have to change buses here. Also, it’s only 20km from Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato. It’s unlikely you’ll need to stay here; bus connections are plentiful.
If you want to fill an hour or two before a bus connection, it’s worth wandering the streets surrounding the bus terminal, known as Zona Piel (Leather District). León has a long history of supplying goods: in the 16th century it was the center of Mexico’s ranching district, providing meat for the mining towns and processing hides.
BUSES FROM LEóN
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aguascalientes | 195 | 2-2½ | frequent |
| Guadalajara | 320-370 | 3 | 10 |
| Guanajuato | 80-112 | ¾ | hourly |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 450-600 | 5 | very frequent (24 hr) |
| San Miguel de Allende | 185-250 | 2¼ | 6 |
| Zacatecas | 430 | 4 | 8 |
8Getting There & Away
Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato is 20km southeast of León on the Mexico City road. Many US airlines offer flights between US cities and here. Unfortunately, no bus service operates between Aeropuerto Internacional de Guanajuato and central León. A taxi between León and the airport costs around M$300 (M$380 from the airport using the official airport taxis).
The Central de Autobuses (Blvd Hilario Medina s/n), just north of Blvd López Mateos and 2.5km east of downtown, has a cafeteria, left luggage and a money exchange. There are regular 1st- and 2nd-class services to most cities in northern and central Mexico.
Dolores Hidalgo
%418 / Pop 61,000 / Elev 1920m
Dolores Hidalgo is a compact town with a pretty, tree-filled plaza, a relaxed ambience and an important history. Amazingly enough, the Mexican independence movement began in earnest in this small place when at 5am on September 16, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo, the parish priest, rang the bells to summon people to church earlier than usual and issued the Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores), also known as the Grito de Independencia (Cry of Independence).
Today Hidalgo is one of Mexico’s most revered heroes. Dolores was renamed in his honor in 1824. Mexicans swarm here for Independence Day (September 16), during which time the price of accommodations can more than double. The town’s centro histórico is worth a half-day visit for history buffs, not only for its interesting independence-themed museums but also for its colored Talavera ceramics workshops and famous ice cream.
MIGUEL HIDALGO: ¡VIVA MEXICO!
The balding head of the visionary priest Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla is familiar to anyone who has ogled Mexican statues or murals. A genuine rebel idealist, Hidalgo sacrificed his career and risked his life on September 16, 1810, when he launched the independence movement.
Born on May 8, 1753, son of a criollo (Mexican-born person of Spanish parentage) hacienda manager in Guanajuato, he earned a bachelor’s degree and, in 1778, was ordained a priest. He returned to teach at his alma mater in Morelia and eventually became rector. But he was no orthodox cleric: Hidalgo questioned many Catholic traditions, read banned books, gambled, danced and had a mistress.
In 1800 he was brought before the Inquisition. Nothing was proven, but a few years later, in 1804, he found himself transferred as priest to the hick town of Dolores.
Hidalgo’s years in Dolores show his growing interest in the economic and cultural welfare of the people. He started several new industries: silk was cultivated, olive groves were planted and vineyards established, all in defiance of the Spanish colonial authorities. Earthenware building products were the foundation of the ceramics industry that today produces fine glazed pots and tiles.
When Hidalgo met Ignacio Allende from San Miguel, they shared a criollo discontent with the Spanish stranglehold on Mexico. Hidalgo’s standing among the mestizos (people of mixed European and indigenous ancestry) and indigenous people of his parish was vital in broadening the base of the rebellion that followed.
Shortly after his Grito de Independencia, Hidalgo was formally excommunicated for ‘heresy, apostasy and sedition.’ He defended his call for Mexican independence and stated furthermore that the Spanish were not truly Catholic in any religious sense of the word but only for political purposes, specifically to rape, pillage and exploit Mexico. A few days later, on October 19, Hidalgo dictated his first edict calling for the abolition of slavery in Mexico.
Hidalgo led his growing forces from Dolores to San Miguel, Celaya and Guanajuato, north to Zacatecas, south almost to Mexico City and west to Guadalajara. But then, pushed northward, their numbers dwindled and on July 30, 1811, having been captured by the Spanish, Hidalgo was shot by a firing squad in Chihuahua. His head was returned to the city of Guanajuato, where it hung in a cage for 10 years on an outer corner of the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, along with the heads of fellow independence leaders Allende, Aldama and Jiménez. Rather than intimidating the people, this lurid display kept the memory, the goal and the example of the heroic martyrs fresh in everyone’s mind. After independence the cages were removed, and the skulls (and bodies) of the heroes are now in the Monumento a la Independencia in Mexico City.
1Sights
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de DoloresCHURCH
(Plaza Principal)
The Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Dolores is the church where Hidalgo issued the now world famous Grito (a call to arms for the country’s independence) and is the focal point for the town’s independence day celebrations each year. It has a fine 18th-century Churrigueresque facade. Legends surround his ‘cry’; some say that Hidalgo uttered his famous words from the pulpit, others claim that he spoke at the church door to the people gathered outside.
Cuna De TierraWINERY
(%418-690-22-09; www.cunadetierra.com; Carretera Dolores Hidalgo–San Luis de la Paz Km 11; hWed-Sun by appointment)
The first and biggest winery in Guanajuato opened in 2005, heralding the reintroduction of wine production in the area 200 years after the Spanish banned it, insisting instead on Mexicans drinking only Spanish wine. Tastings, for which you should book in advance, take place in the award-winning buildings. The white uses Sémillon grapes; reds are a mixture. Around 80,000 bottles are produced each year.
Hidalgo StatueMONUMENT
(Plaza Principal)
The town’s main square naturally boasts a statue of the man himself, Hidalgo (in Roman garb, on top of a tall column). Here too is a tree that, according to the plaque beneath it, was a sapling of the tree of the Noche Triste (Sad Night), under which Cortés is said to have wept when his men were driven out of Tenochtitlán in 1520.
Museo Bicentenario 1810–2010MUSEUM
(Casa del Capitán Mariano Abasolo; adult/student M$20/10, Sun free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
Previously the Presidencia Municipal, this museum was inaugurated in 2010 for Mexico’s bicentennial celebrations. Despite its name, the majority of its seven rooms provide a cultural and historical context of the first hundred years of independence, including mementos produced for the centenary of 1910. Quirkier items include a stunning silk scarf embroidered with hair (depicting the image of Alejandro Zavala Mangas, an architect from Guanajuato city) and the original painted poster promoting the first century of independence.
Museo de la Independencia NacionalMUSEUM
(Zacatecas 6; adult/student M$15/10, Sun free; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
Although this museum has few relics, it has plenty of information on the independence movement. The exhibition spans seven rooms and charts the appalling decline in Nueva España’s indigenous population between 1519 (an estimated 25 million) and 1605 (one million), and identifies 23 indigenous rebellions before 1800 as well as several criollo conspiracies in the years leading up to 1810. There are vivid paintings, quotations and details on the heroic last 10 months of Hidalgo’s life.
Museo Casa de HidalgoMUSEUM
(cnr Hidalgo & Morelos; adult/student M$40/20, free Sun; h9am-5:45pm Tue-Sat, to 4:45pm Sun)
Miguel Hidalgo lived in this house when he was Dolores’ parish priest. It was from here, in the early hours of September 16, 1810, that Hidalgo, Ignacio Allende and Juan de Aldama set off to launch the uprising against colonial rule. The house is now something of a national shrine – think memorials, replicas of Hidalgo’s furniture and independence-movement documents, including the order for Hidalgo’s excommunication.
zFestivals & Events
Día de la IndependenciaHISTORICAL
(hSep 16)
As the scene of the Grito de Independencia, Dolores is the scene of major Día de la Independencia celebrations on September 16, which the Mexican president may officiate – according to tradition – in his fifth year of office.
4Sleeping & Eating
Don’t leave without sampling a hand-turned ice cream (around M$20) from an ice-cream vendor on the plaza or around town. You can test your taste buds on the flavors: mole (chili sauce), chicharrón (fried pork skin), avocado, corn, cheese, honey, shrimp, beer, tequila and tropical fruits.
Posada CocomacánHOTEL$
(%418-182-60-86; www.posadacocomacan.com.mx; Plaza Principal 4; s/d M$420/600; W)
The centrally located and absolutely apricot Cocomacán is an aged but reliable option and has lots of Mexican ambience. Of the 37 rooms, those on the upper levels, with windows on to the street, are the best. There’s also a restaurant (open 8am to 10:30pm).
Hotel HidalgoHOTEL$
(%418-182-04-77; www.hotelposadahidalgo.com; Hidalgo 15; s/d M$550/650; W)
The reception feels a bit like a doctor’s surgery, but this super-clean and well-managed place offers comfortable if rather dated rooms. It’s conveniently located between the bus stations and the Plaza Principal.
oDaMónicaITALIAN$$
(Nayarit 67; mains M$80-200; h10:30am-10:30pm Tue-Sun)
This cozy and inviting culinary marvel is hosted by Mónica, the Italian owner, who will whip up very genuine Italian delights such as lasagna, pizza and gourmet seafood treats.
7Shopping
Talavera ceramics have been the signature handicraft of Dolores ever since Padre Hidalgo founded the town’s first ceramics workshop in the early 19th century. Head to the Zona Artesanal; the workshops along Avenida Jiménez, five blocks west of the plaza; or (by car) to Calzada de los Héroes, the exit road to San Miguel de Allende.
8Information
Tourist office (%418-182-11-64; www.dolores-hidalgo.com; Plaza Principal; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) On Plaza Principal’s southeastern side. The helpful staff provide maps and information.
8Getting There & Away
The Primera Plus/Coordinados (Flecha Amarilla) bus station (Hidalgo) is 2½ blocks south of the plaza, near the Herradura de Plata/Autovías bus station (%418-182-29-37; cnr Chiapas & Yucatán).
BUSES FROM DOLORES HIDALGO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guanajuato | 85 | 1¼ | frequent |
| León | 160 | 2¼ | 3 |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) via Querétaro | 375 | 5-6 | frequent |
| Querétaro | 150 | 2 | hourly |
| San Luis Potosí | 170 | 2¼ | hourly |
| San Miguel de Allende | 50 | ¾ | frequent |