Baja California
Northern Baja
Tijuana
Playas de Rosarito
Ruta del Vino & Valle de Guadalupe
Ensenada
Mexicali
Southern Baja
Guerrero Negro
San Ignacio
Sierra de San Francisco
Santa Rosalía
Mulegé
Loreto
Puerto San Carlos
La Paz
La Ventana
Los Barriles
Cabo Pulmo
San José del Cabo
Cabo San Lucas
Todos Santos
Baja California
Why Go?
Baja, the earth’s second-longest peninsula, offers over 1200km of the mystical, ethereal, majestic and untamed. Those lucky enough to make the full Tijuana to Los Cabos trip will find that the Carretera Transpeninsular (Hwy 1) offers stunning vistas at every turn. The middle of nowhere is more beautiful than you ever imagined, and people are friendly, relaxed and helpful – even in the border towns. Side roads pass through tiny villages and wind drunkenly along the sides of mountains. Condors carve circles into an unblemished blue sky. Some people simply sip drinks, eat fish tacos and watch the sun disappear into the Pacific. Some choose to feel the rush of adrenaline as they surf that perfect wave. Others walk through sherbet-colored canyons or stare up at the night’s canopy of scattered-diamond stars. Whichever way you choose to take it, you’ll discover some of Baja’s many joys.
When to Go
- Jan–Mar Flowers bloom, things get green; whales and whale sharks play; and big waves delight surfers.
- Aug–Sep Beaches all but empty. You’ll have Baja all to yourself, but it’s hot.
- Oct–Nov The seas are crystal clear for uncrowded diving and snorkeling.
Best Places to Stay
Baja California Highlights
1 Espíritu Santo Kayaking the blue bays and picnicking on empty white beaches.
2 Ruta del Vino Sipping and savoring the bucolic delights of northern Baja’s unspoiled Valle de Guadalupe.
3 El Bajo Diving with a giant ball of schooling jacks in Cabo Pulmo, home to the Sea of Cortez’ only living coral reef.
4 Bahía Magdalena Boating from Puerto San Carlos into clear waters where whales come to calve.
5 Todos Santos Wandering cobblestone streets, dining farm-to-table at Heirbabuena and surfing till the sun goes down.
6 Land’s End Paddling through clear waters to romantic Lovers Beach before crossing to wild Divorce Beach.
7 Loreto Boating and snorkeling by day; drinking and dining on the historic town square by night.
8 Tijuana Gorging on ‘Baja Med’ cuisine and downing tasty craft beers at Plaza Fiesta.
History
Before Europeans arrived, an estimated 48,000 mobile hunter-gatherers were living in today’s Baja; their mysterious murals still grace caves and canyon walls. European settlement failed to reach Baja until the Jesuit missions of the 17th and 18th centuries, and the missions soon collapsed as European-introduced diseases ravaged the indigenous people. Ranchers, miners and fishers were the next to arrive. During the US Prohibition era of the 1920s, Baja became a popular south-of-the-border destination for gamblers, drinkers and other ‘sinners.’ Today the region is growing in economic power, population and popularity, albeit with problematic ecological and environmental consequences.
8Getting There & Away
There are six official border crossings from the US state of California to Baja.
Mexican mainland, US and international flights leave from and arrive at La Paz, Loreto, San José del Cabo and Tijuana. Ferries from Santa Rosalía and Pichilingue (near La Paz), connect Baja California to the mainland by sea.
8Getting Around
Air-conditioned, nonsmoking but relatively expensive buses operate daily between towns all along the peninsula; however, car travel is often the only way to reach isolated villages, mountains and beaches. You can rent cars in larger cities and major tourist destinations.
Highways are good and there are few toll roads. Drivers using the scenic (cuota; toll highway) route to Ensenada will need M$32; the Tijuana–Mexicali route costs M$170. Denominations larger than US$20 or M$200 are not accepted. You’ll also encounter a number of military checkpoints.
BAJA SAFETY
The US State Department has issued travel warnings as gang violence, particularly in San José del Cabo and La Paz, skyrockets; the two cities have become two of the top cities for murders per capita in Mexico. These murders have been almost entirely within the drug cartels, and in the main tourist areas you’d hardly realize that violence is going on in the fringes. Border towns such as Tijuana have also received awful press due to drug-trade-related killings. It’s important to know that, so far, tourists have not been targeted. Basic caution, common sense and awareness, such as staying clear of dodgy areas and not driving at night, is imperative. Keeping valuables (including surfboards) out of sight and doors locked will minimize risk of theft, which, at present, is still your greatest worry.
Sanitation standards in Baja are higher than in other states, and water – even tap water – is usually safe to drink.
Northern Baja
Tijuana, Tecate and Mexicali form the northern border of an area known as La Frontera, which extends as far south as San Quintín on the west and San Felipe on the east. Increasingly, the Ruta del Vino (between Ensenada and Tecate) is gaining Napa Valley–like fame for its boutique, award-winning wines. Though northern Baja’s border cities and beaches are undeniably hedonistic, Tijuana and Mexicali are also major manufacturing centers and retain a workaday feel.
Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857NATIONAL PARK
At the end of a challenging 43km road out of Ojos Negros (east of Ensenada), Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857 has beautiful conifers, fields of wildflowers and a sometimes-dry lake, Laguna Hanson, at an altitude of 1200m. Cabañas (cabins; US$30) or campsites (
%686-554-44-04; included with US$4 park fee; 
h8am to 3pm) are available; the water may be contaminated so bring your own.
It’s a sublime spot for mountain biking, hiking or just getting away from it all, as long as everyone else isn’t getting away at the same time – in peak holiday times it can be busy, but it’s a beautiful spot any time of year. The park is also accessible by a steeper road east of Km 55.2, 16km southeast of the Ojos Negros junction.
La BufadoraLANDMARK
La Bufadora is a popular ‘blowhole’ (really a notch in the rock that sprays waves upwards) 40km south of Ensenada. If conditions are right it sends a jet of water up to 30m into the sky, drenching cheering onlookers.
Conditions aren’t always ideal, but if you’re up for a gamble you can drive south on the Transpeninsular to the ‘Bufadora’ sign, then follow the road all the way around to the Pacific side. Parking costs M$20 and the approach is flanked by souvenir stalls (and touts).
Tijuana
%664 / Pop 1.4 million
Tijuana boasts the ‘most crossed border in the world,’ and in many ways offers the full border-town experience with its vibrant cocktail of cultures, vigorous nightlife, great range of restaurants and bars, and sleazy red-light district. Yes it’s gritty and yes, there’s plenty of violent crime, but in reality tourists are rarely a target. What’s changed about Tijuana over the years is the emergence of a dynamic craft beer, dining and urban art scene. Several pasajes (passages) off main thoroughfare La Revolución (or La Revo, as it is commonly known) are now home to contemporary galleries and arty cafes. Many hip, lauded restaurants have opened in Zona Río, the upscale commercial center that runs alongside the river. Here you’ll also find Plaza Fiesta, the rough-around-the-edges center of the craft beer and bar scene that perhaps more than anywhere embodies the ever-evolving, hedonistic yet distinctly Mexican soul of Tijuana.
History
At the beginning of the 20th century, TJ was literally just a mud hole. Prohibition drove US tourists here for booze, gambling, brothels, boxing and cockfights, causing Tijuana’s population to balloon to 180,000 by 1960. With continued growth have come the inevitable social and environmental problems. Today the drug and illegal-immigrants trade into the US are the city’s biggest concerns.
1Sights
oMuseo de las CaliforniasMUSEUM
(map Google map Museum of the Californias; %664-687-96-00; www.cecut.gob.mx; Centro Cultural Tijuana, cnr Paseo de los Héroes & Av Independencia; adult/child under 12yr M$27/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; 
p
c)
The Museo de las Californias chronicles the history of Baja California from prehistoric times to the present. The exhibit kicks off with replica cave paintings, then covers important historical milestones, illustrated in many cases by realistic dioramas and scale models, including replicas of a 16th-century ship, several missions and even a freestone chapel.
oPasaje RodríguezARTS CENTER
(map Google map Av Revolución, btwn Calles 3a & 4a; hnoon- 10pm)
This atmospheric arty alley reflects TJ’s growing urban art scene. The walls are painted with vibrant graffiti-style murals – the perfect backdrop to the boho-style cafes, Oaxacan food stalls, locally made fashion, music bars, bookstores and craft shops.
Frontón Palacio Jai AlaiPALACE
(map Google map Av Revolución, btwn Calles 7a & 8a)
Oddly baroque in style, the striking Frontón Palacio Jai Alai dates from 1926 and for decades hosted the fast-moving ball game of jai alai – a sort of hybrid between squash and tennis, originating in Spain’s Basque country. A strike by players combined with lack of attendance led to its closure. Today it’s a massive music venue.
2Activities
Vinícola L.A. CettoWINE
(map Google map L.A. Cetto Winery; %664-685-30-31; www.lacetto.mx; Cañón Johnson 2108; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Still operated by descendants of Italian immigrants who arrived in Baja in 1926, L.A. Cetto produces a range of tasty varietals, as well as sparkling wines and a decent brandy. If you can’t make it to its Valle de Guadalupe vineyards (%646-175-23-63; www.lacetto.com; Carretera Tecate–El Sauzal Km 73.5; tour & tastings M$50; h9am-5pm), stop at this shop for a tasting.
TTours
Turista LibreTOURS
(www.turistalibre.com; day tours from US$70)
Tours to Tijuana and beyond, focusing on harder-to-find stuff like cultural events, quirky markets, craft breweries, amazing street tacos and more.
zFestivals & Events
Expo ArtesanalART
(Centro Cultural; cnr Paseo de los Héroes & Av Independencia; hearly May)
A superb arts and crafts festival held at the Cultural Center with handicrafts for sale from all over Mexico.
Tijuana Craft Beer ExpoBEER
(www.facebook.com/TjBeerFest; Mercado Hidalgo; hearly Jun)
This boozy festival serves some of the best beers, both new and old. Mix with Clamato for the true Mexican experience.
Expo TequilaTEQUILA
(Tequila Festival; cnr Ave Revolucion & Calle 8a; hmid-Oct)
Your chance to become a tequila pro with a vast variety available for tasting and purchase.
4Sleeping
Hotel BajaHOTEL$
(map Google map %664-688-22-88; Calle 5a 8163; r from M$660; p
n
a
W)
This small, modern, relatively new hotel, just off La Revo, has motel-style rooms set around a small astroturf garden. The decor is a dazzle of green-and-white paintwork and, while the rooms are tiny, the bathrooms are spacious with walk-in showers. It’s secure, friendly and a very good deal.
Hotel NelsonHISTORIC HOTEL$
(map Google map %664-685-43-02; Av Revolución 721; r from M$650; pnaW)
The friendly Nelson is a longtime favorite, with high ceilings and 1950s-era touches, such as a real live barbershop of old. The carpeted rooms are scuffed and some are maybe a little too authentically old (check out a few), but they come with color TV, and some have a view of the (less-than-soothing!) Avenida Revolución.
oHotel Caesar’sHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(map Google map %664-685-16-06; www.hotelcaesars.com.mx; Av Revolución 1079; r M$1360-1530; pnaW)
If walls could talk! Tijuana’s most famous historic hotel dates from the 1920s Prohibition era when it was popular with movie stars from over the border. Today only the facade reflects this belle epoque; the rooms are large, exceptionally clean, carpeted and blandly comfortable. But it’s great value, central and the adjacent restaurant holds the historic charm the hotel lacks. Rates are cheaper online.
Hotel La Villa de ZaragozaMOTEL$$
(map Google map %664-685-18-32; www.hotellavilla.biz; Av Madero 1120; r from M$900; pna
iW)
Rooms here are set around a central courtyard and car park, and are typical, faded motel-style, sporting a decor predictably business-style bland with a predominantly cream-and-brown color scheme. However, the location is central yet quiet, rooms are immaculate and clean, and there’s a good on-site restaurant, plus room service.
Hotel Real del RíoHOTEL$$$
(%664-634-31-00; www.realdelrio.com; Av Velasco 1409; r incl breakfast M$1650; pnaW)
The contemporary building-block-style exterior here sets the tone for a slick, modern hotel with comfortable carpeted rooms, a gym, a rooftop sundeck for catching the rays and an excellent restaurant and bar, well known among locals for its Sunday brunch. It’s located in the less-gritty-than-central-Tijuana Zona Río area, near many hip restaurants and brew pubs.
5Eating
oTras/HorizonteMEXICAN$
(Río Colorado 9680; dishes M$28-119; h1-10pm Tue-Sat, 1-7pm Sun; W)
With sunsets and sea creatures painted on the walls, and ferns, cacti, driftwood and fairy lights throughout, this indoor warehouse restaurant feels like a magical outdoor space. The food is even better, with generous, creative starters and tacos, from shrimp-stuffed chili relleno in adobe chili to portobello mushroom in cilantro mesquite pesto. Pair them with a house specialty mezcal cocktail.
Colectivo 9INTERNATIONAL$
(map Google map Av Revolución 1265; mains M$70-95; h1-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to midnight Fri & Sat; c)
The narrow-lane approach provides a taster of what’s to come with its hip small boutiques and cafes; the Colectivo comprises nine small restaurants set around a central courtyard and fountain. What do you fancy? A burger, handmade sausage, pizza, Japanese food? Take your pick; the standard is superb, while the setting has a contemporary feel that’s lacking in downtown TJ.
Tacos El GordoTACOS$
(map Google map Av Constitución 1342; tacos M$24; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Locals in the know flock to this clean-cut, semi-outdoor joint decked out in white and red. Tacos include the normal suspects like asada and pastor (marinated roast pork), but also include delicacies like tender lengua (tongue) and fatty and tasty ojo (cow eye). Sopas (soups), tortas (sandwiches) and tostadas (deep-fried tortillas) are also on the menu.
PragaCAFE$
(map Google map Av Revolución, btwn Calles 4a & 5a; breakfasts M$75-98; h8am-11pm; W)
Good coffee (including espresso drinks) and yummy breakfasts from Benedicts and pancakes to particularly good chilaquiles make this an early morning no-brainer. The Parisian-style marble tables and European vibe make it an escape from the dusty streets outside.
Cine TonalaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map http://tj.cinetonala.mx; Av Revolución 1317; dishes M$45-160; h1pm-2am Tue-Sun)
Taking Av Revolución to chic new standards, this cosmopolitan rooftop bar and restaurant serves insanely good and unusual tacos like sea urchin with avocado and guajilio chilies or smoked tuna with prawns, garlic lime and nine chilies. Or, just go with a rib eye steak or veggie burger with a cocktail. Don’t miss checking out the art-house cinema downstairs.
Caesar’sITALIAN$$
(map Google map %664-685-19-27; www.caesarstijuana.com; Av Revolución 1927; small Caesar salad M$90, mains M$110-120; hnoon-10:30pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, to 9pm Sun; p)
Step inside and you are transported to the 1950s. Sepia pics of Hollywood movie stars line the walls, while the dark-wood decor oozes elegance. The exceptional Caesar salad, prepared with panache at your table, was apparently invented here by the restaurant’s founder Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant from the 1920s.
Casa CacaoMEXICAN$$
(map Google map Calle 2 No 8172; mains M$60-190; h8:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-3pm Sun)
Like stepping into a Mexican grandmother’s home, this warm cafe is our favorite breakfast stop with chicken emolades (layered meat and tortillas) smothered with one of the best moles (chili sauce) in Baja and paired with an off-the-charts delicious cafe olla (Mexican cinnamon coffee) or hot chocolate. Lunch and dinner are great too.
Mision 19INTERNATIONAL$$$
(%664-634-24-93; www.mision19.com; Misión de San Javier 10643, Zona Río; mains M$150-395; h1-10pm Mon-Sat)
Star Mexican chef Javier Plascencia’s ode to revitalizing his hometown, Mision 19 is the city’s chic-est address with sparse black-and-white decor and formal service. Ingredients aim to come from a 120-mile radius to create true ‘Baja cuisine.’ Try the roast duck with mezcal, guava and chili or the tuna parfait with avocado meringue, Meyer lemon caramel and pork crackling.
Cien AñosMODERN MEXICAN$$$
(%664-634-30-39; Av Velasco 2331, Zona Río; mains M$169-399; h7:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; pW)
Delicious, innovative contemporary Mexican cuisine plus traditional dishes such as sopa Azteca with avocado and tortilla strips, crepes de huitlacoche (corn fungus) with a creamy pistachio-flavored sauce and chiles rellenos (chilies stuffed with meat or cheese) with shrimps and lobster bisque. Ask the waiter to prepare the classic salsa de molcajete (roasted salsa made with a mortar and pestle) at your table.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Drinkers in TJ may feel like hounds let loose in a fire-hydrant factory. Go wild in bars or attempt refinement with craft beers, fine tequilas and local wines.
oPlaza FiestaCRAFT BEER
(map Google map Erasmo Castellanos Q. 9440; h4pm-2am)
Step into what seems like an aging shopping mall, to some gritty alleyways that, behold, house the heart of Tijuana’s craft-beer scene as well as a slew of mezcal and sports bars and hopping clubs. Our favorite beers come from tiny yet lauded Insurgente Tap Room, but edgy Border Psycho and fun Mamut are also worth a stop.
Evenings are mellow at the craft-beer shops, but get much, much crazier as the night rolls on at the clubs that line the back of the complex. There’s no for-tourist stuff here, just full-on Mexican partying.
Norte Brewing Co.BREWERY
(map Google map Diaz Miron y o cuarta 8160; beer flights M$80; h2-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)
Feel cool just finding this gray and black-themed brewery with windows overlooking the US–Mexico border. Try the hoppy yet easy-drinking 4 Play Session IPA or the Foreign Club Porter to go as dark as the music playing on the stereo. To find it, go through an unmarked entrance next to the casino and take the elevator to the 5th floor.
Container CoffeeCOFFEE
(map Google map Av Revolución 1348; espresso drinks from M$35; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
If you seriously need a coffee and are serious about the coffee you need, make a beeline to this hip roastery, with seats made from coffee sacks and model airplanes on the ceiling, in the heart of downtown. Choose from espresso or coffee brewed as you like from drip to French press.
Los RemediosCANTINA
(Av Rivera 2479, Zona Río; meals M$100-300; h1pm-12:30am)
Enjoy fabulous festive decor at this cavernous cantina/restaurant with its bullfighting posters, classic ’50s movie posters, colorful paper flags and ceiling papered with lotto tickets. You can’t miss the canary-yellow facade right on the roundabout in Zona Río. Live music at weekends. Choose from a veritable encyclopedia of tequilas.
3Entertainment
Domo ImaxCINEMA
(map Google map www.cecut.gob.mex; Centro Cultural Tijuana; cnr Paseo de los Héroes & Av Independencia; tickets from M$52; h1-11pm Tue-Sun)
Located in the Centro Cultural Tijuana and showing predominantly art-house films.
Centro Cultural TijuanaARTS CENTER
(map Google map CECUT; %664-687-96-00; www.cecut.gob.mx; cnr Paseo de los Héroes & Av Independencia; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; c)
Tijuana’s sophisticated arts and cultural center would make any comparably sized city north of the border proud. It houses an art gallery, the superb Museo de las Californias, a theater, and the globular cinema Domo Imax.
7Shopping
Tijuana is great for souvenirs, but be cautious when buying gold and silver as much of it is fake (at those prices it would have to be, right?). You’ll note the many drugstores here; they specialize in selling discounted generic pharmaceuticals to US citizens. Be sure to check out some of the local markets for another side of TJ.
Mecado HidalgoMARKET
(map Google map Guadalupe Victoria 2; h6am-6pm)
Tijuana’s most well-known market is also one of the biggest and most visited by tourists. It’s still a great place to peruse everything from exotic fruits to fresh pastries and colorful piñatas.
Mercado El PopoMARKET
(map Google map cnr Calle 2a & Av Constitución; h8am-8:30pm)
El Popo is the most colorful downtown market, with stacks of fresh cheeses, sweets, wooden spoons, piles of dried chilies, kitchenware, herbs, incense, santeria, candles, love soaps, stacks of bundled cinnamon sticks, bee pollen and fruit. It’s like a condensed version of the bigger, better-known markets.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
If you’re street smart and not after trouble, then it is unlikely you’ll have problems. Touts are sometimes irksome but they deserve a respectful ‘no’ – they are trying to make a living.
Don’t drink on the streets. As in any big city, being plastered late at night can invite trouble.
Coyotes and polleros (both mean ‘people smugglers’) congregate along the river west of the San Ysidro crossing. After dark, avoid this area and Colonia Libertad, east of the crossing.
EMERGENCY
Tourist Assistance Hotline (%078)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital General (%664-684-00-78; Centenario 10851) Hospital with a good reputation northwest of the junction with Avenida Rodríguez.
MONEY
Use caution when changing money, especially at night. Everyone accepts US dollars and most banks have ATMs.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Cotuco Visitor Center (%664-685-31-17; www.descubretijuana.com; Av Revolución, btwn Calle 3a & Calle 4a; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) There is also a visitor center at the border (%664-607-30-97; www.descubretijuana.com; pedestrian border entrance visitor center; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) and a head office (%664-684-05-37; www.descubretijuana.com; ste 201, Paseo de los Héroes 9365; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) on Paseo de los Héroes.
State Tourism Info Center (%664-973-04-24; Av Revolución 842; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) This small information kiosk can provide a handy map of town and that’s about it.
State Tourism Office (Secretaría de Turismo del Estado; %664-682-33-67; www.descubrebajacalifornia.com; Alarcón 1572; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) This is the main state tourism office in town.
8Getting There & Away
Mexican tourist permits are available 24 hours a day at the San Ysidro–Tijuana border’s Instituto Nacional de Migración (INM) office at a cost of M$500, or free if you’re visiting Mexico for under one week. They can be issued for up to 180 days.
AIR
Several airlines service Tijuana, predominantly Aeroméxico (%664-683-84-44, 664-684-92-68; www.aeromexico.com; Plaza Rio) and Volaris (%55-1102-8000; www.volaris.com; Aeropuerto Internacional de Tijuana), which serve many mainland Mexican and US destinations. International destinations include Shanghai, Guatamala City, Managua and San Salvador.
Aeropuerto Internacional General Abelardo L Rodríguez (%664-607-82-00; www.tijuana-airport.com; Carretera Aeropuerto-Otay Mesa) is in Mesa de Otay, east of downtown.
BUS
The main bus terminal, about 5km southeast of downtown, is the Central Camionera (%664-621-29-82; Chapultepec Alamar), where Elite (www.autobuseselite.com.mx) and Estrella Blanca (www.estrellablanca.com.mx) offer 1st-class buses with air-con and toilets. Destinations in mainland Mexico include Guadalajara (from M$1900, 36 hours) and Mexico City (from M$2015, 44 hours, 12 daily, hourly). ABC (www.abc.com.mx) and Auto Transporte Águila (www.autobusesaguila.com) operate mostly 2nd-class buses to mainland Mexico’s Pacific coast and around Baja California.
Suburbaja (%664-688-00-45) local buses use the handy downtown Antigua Central Camionera (cnr Av Madero & Calle 1a), with buses leaving for Tecate (M$85), one hour, every 15 minutes).
Between 3am and 10pm, buses leave from the San Diego Greyhound terminal (%800-231-22-22, US 619-515-1100; www.greyhound.com; 120 West Broadway, San Diego) and stop at the San Ysidro terminal (%619-428-62-00; 4570 Camino de la Plaza) en route to Tijuana’s Central Camionera bus terminal or the airport. Fares from San Diego/San Ysidro to the Central Camionera or airport are M$150 each way.
BUSES FROM TIJUANA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ensenada | 205 | 1½ | frequent |
| Guerrero Negro | 1300 | 11 | 3 |
| La Paz | 2505 | 24 | 3 |
| Loreto | 1945 | 18 | 2 |
| Mexicali | 325 | 2¾ | frequent |
| Santa Rosalía | 1616 | 14 | 3 |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The San Ysidro (%US 619-428-1194; 799 East San Ysidro Blvd) border crossing, a 10-minute walk from downtown Tijuana, is open 24 hours, but motorists may find the Mesa de Otay crossing (also open 24 hours) less congested – it’s 15km to the east of San Ysidro.
Rental agencies in San Diego are the cheapest option, but most of them only allow journeys as far as Ensenada. Renting a car in Tijuana or taking the bus may be your best option for heading further south, although few offer one-way rentals and those that do add a US$600 or more surcharge.
TROLLEY
San Diego’s popular and easy trolley (www.sdmts.com) runs from downtown San Diego through to the border at San Ysidro (US$2.50) every 15 minutes from about 5am to midnight. From San Diego’s Lindbergh Field airport, city bus 992 (US$2.50) goes to the Plaza America trolley stop in downtown San Diego, across from the Amtrak depot.
8Getting Around
For about M$12, local buses go everywhere, but the slightly pricier route taxis are much quicker. To get to the Central Camionera take any ‘Buena Vista,’ ‘Centro’ or ‘Central Camionera’ bus from Calle 2a, east of Avenida Constitución. Alternatively, take a gold-and-white ‘Mesa de Otay’ route taxi from Avenida Madero between Calles 2a and 3a (M$15). Regular taxis will charge about M$100 for rides in and around Avenida Revolucíon or the Zona Río. The airport is about M$250.
Buses to Playas de Tijuana leave from Calle 3a near Ave Martinez in Zona Central. Grab route taxis for Blvd Agua Caliente and to Central Camionera.
Uber rideshare is popular in Tijuana and rides around town cost around M$35 – you’ll need to have the app or download it on your phone. You can request an English-speaking driver on the app at no extra cost.
Playas de Rosarito
%661 / Pop 78,247
Once a deserted, sandy beach and then a Hollywood film location (Fox Studios Baja, built in 1996 for the filming of Titanic), Playas de Rosarito is finally coming into its own. Developments and condos are everywhere, but despite the construction clamor, Rosarito is a quieter place to party or just chill out, and is an easy day trip (or overnight trip) from Tijuana or San Diego. There are also several excellent surf breaks nearby including the famous K28 around 15km south of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Robert’s K38 Surf MotelMOTEL$$
(%661-613-20-83; www.robertsk38.com; Carretera 1D Km 38; r US$40-75; paW)
Eleven kiliometers south of Rosarito and walking distance from the famous K28 surf break, this super-fun, comfortable bargain of a place is, as you’d guess, popular with surfers. You can rent gear or rack up your gear then just chill out on the beach, walk to cheap places to eat and become a beach bum. No reservations.
Hotel del Sol InnHOTEL$$
(%661-612-25-52; www.del-sol-inn.com; Blvd Juárez 32; d M$1500; pna)
The Sol is a motel-style lodging right on the main drag with clean, carpeted rooms with TV, bottled water and simple furniture. Note that prices triple during the short spring-break holiday.
oTacos El YaquiTACOS$
(cnr Palma & Mar del Norte; tacos M$20-45; h8am-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 9am-9:30pm Fri-Sun)
This delicious taco stand with an outdoor grill is so popular that it often closes early when the ingredients run out. Get in line before 4pm if you don’t want to risk missing out.
Susanna’sMODERN AMERICAN$$
(www.susannasinrosarito.com; Blvd Juárez 4356; mains US$15-30; h1-9:30pm Wed-Mon; W)
Owner Susanna dishes up delightful plates of tasty fare based on fresh seasonal produce spiked with Californian pizzazz. Light salads with innovative dressings, and pasta, meat and fish dishes can be enjoyed in a courtyard setting or homey dining room with chintzy furniture and olive-green walls. The wines are from Valle de Guadalupe.
El NidoSTEAK$$$
(Blvd Juárez 67; mains M$225-510; h8am-9:30pm; pWc)
You can’t miss the vine-covered, wagon-wheel-decorated frontage of this steakhouse in the center of town. And the atmosphere continues with exposed brick and beams, strings of garlic and a foliage-filled back terrace, complete with aviary. Tortillas are made fresh to order and the menu includes venison, rabbit and chicken, plus the star billing: steak.
8Getting There & Away
From downtown Tijuana, colectivos (shared cars) for Playas de Rosarito (M$18) leave from Avenida Madero between Calles 3a and 4a.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PARQUE NACIONAL SIERRA SAN PEDRO MáRTIR
Bobcats, deer and bighorn sheep await visitors to San Pedro Mártir national park, but its real claim to fame isn’t what’s on the ground but what’s in the air: this park is one of only six places in the world where the almost-extinct California condor has been successfully reintroduced into the wild.
Even if one of the world’s largest birds doesn’t soar over your head, there are lots of other reasons to make the detour. Conifers scrape the sky, the air is pine scented and clean, and the (tortuously winding) drive passes through boulder-studded, ethereal landscapes that seem more Martian than something here on earth.
To reach the park, turn left at the sign at approximately Km 140 on the Transpeninsular, south of Colonet. A 100km paved road climbs to the east through an ever-changing desert landscape, affording satisfying vistas all along the way. Camping is possible (no toilets; bring water) in designated areas, but there are no other facilities.
Ruta del Vino & Valle de Guadalupe
%646 / Pop 2664
Beloved by residents of Mexico and Southern California, but a surprise to just about everyone else, Baja’s wine country is an intoxicating blend of luxury lodging, wine tasting and fine dining with dirt roads, cacti amid the grapevines and a very laid-back attitude. It’s actually one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the Americas, now with over 60 wineries, and it attracts a very hip crowd of 20- to 40-somethings looking to relax and indulge in the finer things on a relatively low budget. Once people began whispering that this is the next Napa, the word spread further afield and the wines are gaining attention internationally.
1Sights
Museo de la Vid y El VinoMUSEUM
(www.museodelvinobc.com; Carretera Federal Tecate–Ensenada Km 81.3; M$50; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Who knew that the first wines in the Americas were produced in Baja? Follow the fascinating history of wine in the region via diaromas (in Spanish, but English speakers are given a binder with English translations) and a few artifacts. The bright, modern building makes this even more of a worthwhile stop.
WORTH A TRIP
RUTA DEL VINO – SELF-GUIDED WINERIES TOUR
Here are a few of Valle de Guadalupe’s many excellent, scenic and quirky wineries that are worth adding to your itinerary (in order heading from Ensenada toward Tecate):
Clos de Tres Cantos (%558-568-92-40; Carretera Ensenada-Tecate Km 81; tastings US$8 incl bread & cheese; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun) 
S From the old-seeming stone buildings and modern murals to the views, friendly staff and our favorite rosé in the valley, this is a near perfect place to sip vino with a plate of locally made bread and cheese.
El Pinar de 3 Mujeres (vinicola3mujeres@gmail.com; Carretera Tecate-Ensenada Km 87; set menu M$450; h1-6pm Thu-Mon, Apr-Oct) Named after the three women owners and winemakers, it combines a winery, restaurant and craft shop; meals are served under the trees with scenic vineyard views.
Castillo Ferrer (%646-132-03-56; www.castilloferrer.com; Carretera Ensenada-Tecate Km 86.3; tastings from M$200; h11am-5pm) Taste wines (their Aurum is particularly noteworthy) on the Mediterranean-inspired terrace accompanied by mouthwatering rosemary-infused focaccia. It sits in an orange grove.
Bibayoff (%646-176-10-08; http://bibayoff.mx; Carretera Franciso Zarco-El Tigre Km 9.5; tastings US$7; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun) A winery set off the beaten path with a small museum recounting the fascinating history of the Russians who immigrated here in the early 1900s (the current owner is a descendant). Be sure to ask for a taste of the fruity muscatel.
Adobe Guadalupe (%646-155-20-94; www.adobeguadalupe.com; Parcela A-1 s/n, Rusa de Guadalupe; tastings from M$200; h10am-6pm) The most Mexican-feeling winery in the valley serves its vintages in a replica of a Spanish mission and surrounded by grapevines and a horse ranch. Its Jardin Secreto blend of grenache and tempranillo is the favorite.
L.A. Cetto Mexico’s largest producer, and often filled with the tour-bus crowd, L.A. Cetto is worth checking out to see how it contrasts with the smaller, boutique places. It’s highlight is its cabernet sauvignon.
zFestivals & Events
Fiesta de la VendimiaWINE
(Grape Harvest Festival; hearly Aug)
Mid-summer wine harvest with galas, special tastings, elite parties around Valle de Guadalupe. Reserve far in advance with wineries for events. Cheers!
4Sleeping
Glamping Ruta de Arte y VinoCARAVAN PARK$
(%646-185-33-52; www.rutadearteyvino.wixsite.com/rutadearteyvino; Carretera Ensenada–Tecate Km 13, San Marcos; s/d campervans US$50/96)
A quirky place in a field with 12 vintage 1960s Airstream campervans. Lodging is rustic and gets hot when the weather is sweltering, but otherwise expect to barbecue with your neighbors, get tips from the friendly hosts, enjoy the stars through a telescope and have a grand ‘ole time communing with nature. It’s overpriced but fun.
Hotel Meson del VinoHOTEL$$
(%646-151-21-37; www.mesondelvino.net; Carretera Federal 3 Ensenada–Tecate Km 88.4; d US$55; paW
s)
A mustard-yellow exterior with vines up the walls gives this place a hacienda vibe, but the comfortable rooms feel more like grandma’s house. There’s a small pool and a rather bizarre semi-outdoor weights room, but service is nonexistent (we were handed the room key and never saw the owner again). Overall though it’s clean, central and a great deal.
EncuentroDESIGN HOTEL$$$
(%646-155-27-75; www.grupoencuentro.com.mx; Carretera Tecate-Ensenada Km 75; r US$320-390; Ws)
Architecturally beautiful Encuentro features 22 minimalist, glass, steel and wood ‘loft’ bungalows perched on a dry grassy hill overlooking the valley. This is the type of place where people dress stylishly and take selfies. There’s a photo-worthy infinity pool as well as a restaurant with not only one of the greatest views around but also some of the best food we sampled in the wine country.
La Villa del ValleB&B$$$
(%646-156-80-07; www.lavilladelvalle.com; Carretera Tecate–San Antonio de las Minas Km 88; d US$275-295; pnaW)
A beautiful B&B overlooking the rolling vineyards and fields in the Ruta del Vino. The owners grow their own lavender, make their own personal-care products and have fantastic meals. It feels like a modern, ultra-luxe place in Tuscany. No pets or children.
DON’T MISS
TOP SPOTS FOR FANTASTIC FISH TACOS
Simple and versatile, the humble fish taco is Baja’s comfort food. Done right they’re magical. These spots are all worth seeking out for a taste of this sublimely delicious snack:
Taco Fish La Paz, La Paz. Superb, crispy seafood tacos at one of the longest-standing places in town.
La Guerrerense, Ensenada. Good enough to win an international street food competition and Anthony Bourdain’s pork-loving heart. Enough said.
La Lupita, San José del Cabo. Creative new twists on the classic plus 15 mezcals to choose from as a chaser.
Tacos del Rey, Loreto. Clean, simple, perfect. Pick your toppings then stuff your face on a park bench.
5Eating
La Cocina de Doña EstelaMEXICAN$
(%646-156-84-53; Ranchos San Marcos; mains M$60-115; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Everyone’s favorite breakfast in the valley. Doña Estella’s is a welcome slice of traditional Mexico with huge egg dishes including the house specialty machaca con huevos (scrambled eggs with dried Sinola-style beef). Lunch moves on into birria de res (beef stew) territory. Don’t miss the addictive cafe olla (Mexican coffee) – the best we’ve had.
Taquería Los AmigosMEXICAN$
(cnr Av Hidalgo & Ortiz Rubio, Tecate; tacos from M$22; hFri-Wed)
Join the locals for absolutely superb (and massive) flour quesadillas filled with beans, cheese, excellent guacamole and carne asada (marinated grilled beef). The tacos are tasty too. Don’t leave Tecate without trying this place.
LupeFOOD TRUCK$$
(Carretera Tecate–Ensenada Km 83; tortas M$60-130; h1pm-9pm Tue-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun)
Just want a quick bite between wineries or maybe want a budget meal in the land of upscale dining? Fortunately celebrity chef Javier Placensia offers this humble yet delicious food cart. Fillings range from simple yet gourmet-like ham and cheese to creative wonders like crispy suckling pig with refried beans and avocado, or Mexican stewed beef and onion.
TroicaFOOD TRUCK$$
(%646-156-80-30; Rancho San Marcos Toros Pintos; dishes M$45-160; h1-7pm Tue-Sun)
Right in the middle of the vineyards and set on a little hill, this is a fabulous place to enjoy fish, asada (grilled beef) or lechon (roasted suckling pig) tacos or perhaps a salad or octopus tostada (deep-fried tortillas) to break up a day of wine tasting.
oDeckman’sCALIFORNIAN$$$
(%646-188-39-60; www.deckmans.com; Carretera Ensenada–Tecate Km 85.5; mains M$190-400; h1-8pm Wed-Mon; p) 
S
Good luck not having fun at this warm-hued, adobe-walled, gravel-floored restaurant with the grill as aflame as the wine-drinking diners’ spirits. Run by Michelin-starred chef Drew Deckman, it has hearty dishes like roast quail or rack of lamb, with ingredients nearly entirely sourced from sustainable, local supplies. The five-course tasting menu for M$500 is a steal.
Finca AltozanoCALIFORNIAN$$$
(%646-156-80-45; www.fincaltozano.com; Carre-tera Tecate–Ensenada Km 83; mains M$95-380; h1-9pm Tue-Sun)
Our favorite of celebrity Mexican chef Javier Placensia’s restaurants, this laid-back-feeling place looking out over the vineyards has a cracking oyster bar and not-to-miss starters like chocolate clams with tuna, scallop and oak-smoked bacon. Mains include everything from risotto and confit duck in mole (chili sauce) to locally sourced beef brisket or wood-fired tacos.
8Getting There & Away
You can skip Tijuana’s long lines and treat yourself to some beautiful scenery by entering Mexico via Tecate. The border crossing (open 6am to 10pm) is far less congested, and south of Tecate lies the Ruta del Vino in the intoxicatingly beautiful Valle de Guadalupe (Hwy 3).
Ruta del Vino and Valle de Guadalupe are not reliably accessed by public transportation; you’ll need your own car.
8Getting Around
If you’re taking your own vehicle and will be wine tasting, obviously designate a nondrinking driver first. Maps of the wine route (available at local hotels, tourist offices and wineries) will help you locate the vineyards.
If you don’t want to drive but don’t fancy a group tour either, you can hire a driver for the day via Uber with UberVALLE (www.uber.com; day trips for up to four people around US$150) within the Uber app, although there have been clashes between Uber and locals supporting taxi drivers in the area. For this reason, some people prefer a private taxi for the day, found through hotels and word of mouth – these should cost around US$160 for a day trip for up to four people.
Ensenada
%646 / Pop 519,813
Ensenada, 108km south of the border, is hedonistic Tijuana’s cosmopolitan sister. The city has a quirky mix of just-off-the-boat cruise shippers, drive-by tourists from California, visitors from mainland Mexico and seen-it-all locals. In case you’ve forgotten you’re in Mexico (what with all those US dollars and English menus), just look up: a Mexican flag, so large it’s probably visible from space, flutters proudly over the malecón (waterfront promenade). Wander Avenida López Mateos (Calle 1a) and you’ll find almost anything ranging from delicious French food to tasteless T-shirts. Don’t miss the dancing musical fountain on the waterfront if you’ve got kids.
Ensenada was the capital of Baja territory from 1882 to 1915, but the capital shifted to Mexicali during the revolution. The city subsequently catered to ‘sin’ industries until the federal government outlawed gambling in the 1930s. Today the town is a tourist resort for more than four million visitors annually.
1Sights
oRiviera del PacíficoHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map %646-177-05-94; Blvd Costero; p) 
F
Opened in the 1930s as Hotel Playa Ensenada, the extravagant Riviera del Pacífico, a Spanish-style former casino, is rumored to have been a haunt of Al Capone. It now houses the Museo de Historia de Ensenada (map Google map M$25; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) and Bar Andaluz (map Google map %646-176-43-10; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-1am Sat; W); while the Casa de Cultura offers classes, film screenings and exhibitions. Just strolling around the building and grounds is a delight.
Museo Historico Regional de EnsenadaMUSEUM
(map Google map Museo del INAH; %646-178-25-31; www.lugares.inah.gob.mx; Av Gastelum; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) F
Built in 1886 and once the Aduana Marítima de Ensenada, the city’s oldest public building now houses this historical and cultural museum. It has a relatively small but comprehensive collection of artifacts, and discusses (mainly in Spanish) the area’s history. The most interesting part is the old prison cells where paintings by ex-inmates are preserved on the walls.
2Activities
Surfing
Isla de Todos SantosSURFING
This island off Ensenada’s coast (not to be confused with the town near Los Cabos) hosts one of the world’s top big-wave surfing contests each year. El Martillo (The Hammer) is legendary, with swells often triple overhead or even bigger when conditions are right. Boats can be chartered out from the harbor. Prices start at about M$900 per person (four people minimum).
San MiguelSURFING
(parking M$75)
There’s not much here but a few campers, a parking lot, and a wonderful point break just offshore. When the waves are big it’s an awesome ride.
Fishing & Whale-Watching
Ensenada is known the world over for its excellent sportfishing, though you must have a valid Mexican fishing license (available at state tourism offices) if you want to reel in a live one. Most charter companies also offer whale-watching tours from mid-December to mid-April.
Sergio’s Sportfishing CenterFISHING
(map Google map %646-178-21-85; www.sergiosfishing.com; day trips from US$70; h8am-6pm)
Well-regarded Sergio’s can be found on the sportfishing pier off Ensenada’s malecón. Fishing trips include the necessary gear. Day trips are available as well as private charter trips.
CCourses
Spanish School BajaLANGUAGE
(map Google map %646-190-60-49; www.spanishschoolbaja.com; Calle 10a, btwn Avs Ruiz & Obregón; courses per week US$270)
Small classes with 25 hours of instruction per week run throughout the year.
zFestivals & Events
Baja 1000RACING
(hmid-Nov; c)
Baja’s biggest off-road race. See ‘truggies’ (truck-buggies) tear up the desert to the cheers of just about everyone. The Baja 500 is in June.
CarnavalCARNIVAL
(hFeb; c)
A Mardi Gras–type celebration 40 days before Ash Wednesday when the streets flood with floats and dancers.
Baja Seafood ExpoFOOD & DRINK
(Calle 9a 340; hSep)
Sample scrumptious seafood with industry folks.
4Sleeping
Hotel demand can exceed supply at times, particularly at weekends and in summer. Many places raise their rates significantly at these times, but don’t expect a lot of bang for your pesos at any time.
Hotel Santo TomásHOTEL$
(map Google map %646-178-33-11; hst@bajainn.com; Blvd Costero 609; d from M$590; pnaiW)
Although the furnishing and carpets are a little tired, this vast hotel with its pea-green-and-purple exterior is still a great choice. The quirky lobby has a grand sweeping staircase, an elevator with disco mirrors and a cage of cuddly-looking chinchillas. Rates nearly double on Friday and Saturday (along with the noise levels outside).
Hotel CortezHOTEL$$
(map Google map %646-178-23-07; www.bajainn.com; Av López Mateos 1089; r from M$1470; pnaiWs)
This is one of the best choices right in the heart of things, with facilities that include a small gym. The (heated) pool is surrounded by lofty trees. Some of the rooms are a tad dark. If you can, go for the premium rooms, with their chic and contemporary look: all earth colors and plush fabrics. It books out fast.
Hotel BahíaHOTEL$$
(map Google map %646-178-21-01; www.hotelbahia.com.mx; Av López Mateos 980; r M$1062; paWs)
Despite the unintentionally retro, 1960s-ish exterior, this hotel offers pleasant and spacious carpeted rooms. An attractive pool area with adjacent bar and service direct to your sunbed is another perk. It’s as central as central gets.
Best Western Hotel El CidHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %646-178-24-01; www.hotelelcid.com.mx; Av López Mateos 993; d from M$1495; pnaiWs
#)
This four-star hotel has comfortable rooms with firm beds, a respected restaurant and a lively bar. The bilingual staff are particularly gracious and friendly and the situation is central, in the more upmarket part of town.
5Eating
Ensenada’s dining options range from outrageously delicious corner taco stands to places serving excellent Mexican and international cuisine.
oLa GuerrerenseTACOS$
(map Google map www.laguerrerense.com; cnr Avs Alvarado & López Mateos; tacos from M$25; h10:30am-5pm Wed-Mon)
Sabina Bandera’s award-winning seafood stand dates from the 1960s and attracts long lines with its outstanding seafood tacos, juicy ceviche (seafood marinated in lime juice) and tostadas (deep-fried tortillas). There’s usually some streetside guitar strumming to add to the atmosphere. Try the sea snail or sea urchin on a tostada (M$25) for a real treat.
Birreria La GuadalajaraMEXICAN$
(map Google map Av Macheros 154; tacos M$25-39; h7am-8pm; c)
A great barn of a place, rightfully famous for its birria de chivo (goat stew), but also serving excellent tacos and charcoal grilled meats. Popular with families, the atmosphere is boisterous and noisy with a large open-plan kitchen, a few TVs, strolling mariachis and decor that has changed little since its opening in 1972.
Mariscos El NorteñoSEAFOOD$
(map Google map Local 4, mercado de mariscos; tacos M$30; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun)
You can’t go wrong at any of the seafood stalls across from the mercado de mariscos (fish market), but this popular one has plenty of seating and a superb range of salsas; including roasted jalapeños and red chili. Try an original Baja-style taco, which is a deep-fried fish or shrimp taco with shredded cabbage in a creamy white sauce.
El PariánMEXICAN$
(map Google map %646-128-82-32; cnr Calle 4a & Av Castillo; mains M$80-95; h7:30am-11:30pm; c)
Streamers, murals, painted tables and sherbert-colored furniture give a festive atmosphere to enjoying great enchiladas, quesadillas, burritos, agua de jamaica (hibiscus water) and friendly service. Flat-screen TVs in every corner mean you (or the waitstaff) never have to miss a moment of that cheesy Mexican soap.
Muelle 3SEAFOOD$$
(map %646-17-40-318; Teniete Azueta 187a; dishes M$60-150; hnoon-6:30pm Wed-Sun)
Right on the marina, this place looks like a hole in the wall but on closer inspection you’ll see a sophisticated crowd savoring artistically presented ceviches and other Mexican classics. The flavors are balanced and subtle and everything is fresh and prepared to perfection. It gets crowded, especially at lunchtime.
BoulesINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map %646-175-87-69; Av Moctezuma 623; mains around M$250; h2pm-midnight Wed-Sun)
Creamy risottos, pasta and fresh seafood are a draw here, but it’s the setting under the trees on a deck with lights strung up above that make it taste even better. Owner Javier greets and mingles with all guests like they’re regulars. Choose from a huge selection of wines at the on-site shop then bring them to your table.
6Drinking & Nightlife
On weekends most bars and cantinas along Avenida Ruiz are packed from noon to early morning. If that’s not your scene, head for one of the many quality hotels and fine restaurants where you’re likely to find a laid-back spot to sip a margarita (said to have been invented here) or sample a top-shelf tequila.
oHussong’s CantinaCANTINA
(map Google map http://cantinahussongs.com/home.html; Av Ruiz 113; h11am-2am Tue-Sun)
The oldest and perhaps liveliest cantina in the Californias has been serving tequila since 1892. A Friday or Saturday night will be packed with locals, a sprinkling of tourists and touting mariachis. The history is fascinating, so request the leaflet (in English and Spanish).
WendlandtBEER HALL
(map Google map www.wendlandt.com.mx; Blvd Costero; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sat)
Enjoy craft beers made by the owners, as well as from national and international small breweries; five samplers will cost you just 60 pesos. The surroundings have an urban-chic vibe with chunky wood furniture, exposed brick walls and clever quirky lighting incorporating beer bottles.
Ojos NegrosWINE BAR
(map Google map Av Ruiz 105; h11am-midnight Tue-Sat, 2-10pm Sun; W)
Suffering from margarita meltdown? Then head to this relaxed wine bar for a glass of fruity Passion Meritage, an award-winning red from the owners’ vineyards: Bodegas San Rafael. Lounge-like seating, chill-out music and burgundy-washed walls set the scene nicely. Nibbles include gourmet flatbread pizzas.
3Entertainment
Centro Estatal de las ArtesARTS CENTER
(map Google map %646-173-43-07; www.cenart.gob.mx/2015/07/ensenada/; cnr Av Riviera & Blvd Costero; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun, plus evening events)
The Centro Estatal de las Artes has shows and exhibits throughout the year.
7Shopping
Tequila RoomDRINKS
(map Google map Av López Mateos; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
The Irish-Mexican owner is passionate about tequila, but you won’t find any of the more commercial brands here; these are sourced from all over Mexico. Even if you don’t fancy a tipple (tastings are free), you can admire the bottles, many of which are art-works in themselves.
8Information
EMERGENCY
Municipal Police %646-165-20-34, %911
State Police %646-176-13-11, %911
Tourist Assistance %078
MEDICAL SERVICES
Sanatorio del Carmen (%646-178-34-77; cnr Av Obregón & Calle 11a) A small, clean, well-respected private hospital.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Proturismo Tourist Office (%646-178-24-11; www.proturismoensenada.org.mx; Blvd Costero 540; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Dispenses maps, brochures and current hotel information. There’s an information booth (%646-178-30-70; hTue-Sun) in the Plaza Cívica.
State Tourist Office (%646-172-54-44; www.descubrebajacalifornia.com; Blvd Costero 1477; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) Carries similar information to the Proturismo office.
8Getting There & Away
Immigration Office (%646-174-01-64; Blvd Azueta 101; hdocument delivery 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, document pickup 1-3pm Mon-Fri) Sells tourist permits for those arriving into the country by boat.
BUS
Central de Autobuses (Av Riveroll 1075) Ten blocks north of Avenida López Mateos, serving far-flung destinations like Guadalajara (M$1680, 36 hours) and Mexico City (M$1800, 48 hours) as well as local Baja destinations.
BUSES FROM ENSENADA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guerrero Negro | 1705 | 10 | 3 |
| La Paz | 2140 | 22 | 3 |
| Mexicali | 300-380 | 4 | 12 |
| Playas de Rosarito | 135 | 1 | frequent |
| Tecate | 200-300 | 2 | frequent |
| Tijuana | 145-250 | 1½ | frequent |
| Tijuana Airport | 300 | 1¾ | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The drive from Tijuana to Ensenada on the scenic (cuota) route has three tolls (total M$99).
8Getting Around
The main taxi stand is at the corner of Avenidas López Mateos and Miramar; taxis also congregate along Avenida Juárez. Most fares within the city cost from M$50 to M$120. Uber ride-share is also available in Ensenada, with trips in town averaging M$30.
Mexicali
%686 / Pop 763,162
Mexicali is what Tijuana must have been before the tourist boom – gritty, even scary – and most tourists just head southward. The city has the largest concentration of ethnic Chinese in Mexico and offers some decent Chinese as well as Mexican restaurants plus some fun nightlife, if you can handle a rougher scene. In summer, Mexicali is one of the hottest places on earth – stay away, if possible.
1Sights
Catedral de la Virgen de GuadalupeCATHEDRAL
(cnr Morelos & Av Reforma)
This cathedral is the city’s major religious landmark.
4Sleeping & Eating
AraizaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%686-564-11-00; www.araizahoteles.com; Calz Juárez 2220, Zona Hotelera; d incl breakfast from US$100; pnaiWs)
This family-friendly hotel has well-appointed spacious rooms, two excellent restaurants, a bar, tennis courts, a gym and a convention center. For a quieter stay, request a room in the executive wing away from the road and pool area.
Los ArcosSEAFOOD$$
(%686-556-09-03; Av Calafia 454; mains M$126-300; h11am-10pm)
Dating from 1977, this is Mexicali’s most popular seafood restaurant. The shrimp culichi (shrimp in a creamy green chili sauce) is spectacular. Live music brightens the night on Thursday and Friday. Reservations recommended.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto Internacional General Rodolfo Sánchez Taboada (%686-552-23-17; www.aeropuertosgap.com.mx/es/mexicali; Carretera Mesa de Andrade Km 23.5) is 18km east of town. Aeroméxico (%686-555-70-47; www.aeromexico.com) flies many destinations via Mexico City, while Calafia Airlines (www.calafiaairlines.com) flies from Mexicali to La Paz and San José del Cabo.
BUS
Long-distance and mainland bus companies leave from the Central de Autobuses (%686-556-19-03; Calz Independencia 1244; h24hr), near Calzada López Mateos. Autotransportes del Pacífico (www.tap.com.mx) and Elite (www.autobuseselite.com.mx) serve mainland Mexican destinations, while ABC (www.abc.com.mx) serves the Baja peninsula.
Greyhound (%760-357-18-95, 800-231-22-22; www.greyhound.com; Calz Independencia 1244; h5:30am-11:30pm) has offices in Mexicali and directly across the border in Calexico. There are several departures daily from Mexicali to Los Angeles (one way from US$25) and 12 to San Diego (one way from US$22), as well as other destinations in the USA.
BUSES FROM MEXICALI
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ensenada | 498 | 4 | 12 |
| La Paz | 2931 | 25 | 2 |
| Mexico City | 1797 | 37 | 5 |
| Tijuana | 235 | 2½ | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Vehicle permits are available at the border. The main Calexico–Mexicali border crossing is open 24 hours, while the newer crossing east of downtown (built to ease congestion) is open from 6am to 10pm.