Southern Baja
Cardón cacti, boojum trees, ocotillo, cholla and other desert marvels thrive in this beautiful desert area that sometimes doesn’t receive any rain for a decade. Look out for crumbling missions, date palms, coconuts and mangrove swamps as you meander southward.
The 25,000-sq-km Reserva de la Biosfera El Vizcaíno is one of Latin America’s largest protected areas. It sprawls from the Península Vizcaíno across to the Sea of Cortez and includes the major gray-whale calving areas of Laguna San Ignacio and Laguna Ojo de Liebre, and the Sierra de San Francisco with its stunning pre-Hispanic rock art.
The southernmost part of the peninsula contains the cosmopolitan city of La Paz, small seaside towns and villages, and the popular resorts of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, aka ‘Los Cabos.’ After the quiet isolation of the state’s north, Los Cabos will either be a jarring shock or a welcome relief.
Guerrero Negro
%615 / Pop 13,054
Guerrero Negro is an unassuming, ramshackle kind of town that sprang up to service the lone salt factory. Though the main tourist draw is the proximity to the seasonal migrations of gray whales, there’s also excellent bird-watching in the shallow marshes, and the salt factory’s odd white crystalline plains are quite beautiful.
1Sights
Misión San BorjaCHURCH
(btwn Rosarito & Bahía de los Ángeles; 
h8am-6pm)
This well-restored mission is set a in pristine, spectacular boojum tree-and-cardón desert. The (bumpy) drive alone makes it worth the trip. A family descended from the original preconquest inhabitants is restoring it by hand and will proudly show you the mission, a freshwater spring, a secret now-walled-up tunnel and the old Jesuit ruins. Heading east from Hwy 1, turn right about 45km after leaving the highway.
2Activities
Guerrero Negro can surprise you. If whales aren’t around, try bird-watching or touring the salt factory. On the east side of the inlet is a mini Sahara of 3m-to-6m sand dunes made of powdery white sand.
Bird-Watching
Head to the Old Pier and faro (lighthouse) if you’re a bird-watcher, as there is a pleasant 11km drive through salt flats and marshland: prime territory for ducks, coots, eagles, curlews, terns, herons and other birds.
Whale-Watching
During whale-watching season agencies arrange trips on the waters of Laguna Ojo de Liebre, where visitors are virtually guaranteed a view of whales in their natural habitat.
Malarrimo Eco ToursWILDLIFE
(%615-157-01-00; www.malarrimo.com; Blvd Zapata 42; whale-watching US$50; 
c)
Located beside the hotel of the same name, Malarrimo is one of the most respected and long-standing operators in town and offers four-hour whale-watching tours.
Other Activities
Salt FactoryTOURS
(%615-157-50-00; 1-2hr tour per person M$200)
Tours of the salt factory can be arranged via any hotel or tour agency in Guerrero Negro. If your Spanish is good you can also try calling the salt factory itself for a free tour, although you’ll miss getting all the information you’d get from a guide.
TIPS FOR DRIVING THE TRANSPENINSULAR
If time permits, driving the length of the Carretera Transpeninsular (1625km) is an experience not to be missed. Most importantly, it is overall very safe; although driving at night is not recommended due to the possibility of cows wandering onto the road. The road surface is good and, in general, traffic is surprisingly light. There are several military checkpoints along the way, although tourists are rarely pulled over. Keep an eye on your gas gauge, fill up regularly, and be aware that from El Rosario to Guerrero Negro, a distance of some 350km, there is no gas station.
4Sleeping & Eating
The whale-watching season can strain local accommodations; reservations are advisable from January through March.
Aside from the restaurants, a few cheap and tasty taco trucks set up along the main drag from around 10am to 5pm.
Terra SalMOTEL$
(%615-157-01-33; Emiliano Zapata s/n; s/d incl breakfast M$550/620; 
p
a
W)
Located on the approach to town, this big, new, charmless motel has rooms in a much classier category than elsewhere in town, with earthy colors, chunky wood furniture, mosaic tiling and a choice of either Jacuzzi tubs or walk-in showers. There’s a decent restaurant as well.
Hotel MalarrimoHOTEL$
(%615-157-01-00; www.malarrimo.com; Blvd Zapata 42; s/d M$490/590; p
na
iW)
Hot, strong showers and a lot more ambience than the other options in town. Whale headboards and a general whale theme make it impossible to forget why you’ve come here. There is also a small gift shop and an excellent restaurant, plus whale-watching tours can be arranged. Campsites and RV hookups available.
Los CaracolesHOTEL$$
(%615-157-10-88; www.hotelloscaracoles.com.mx; Calz de la República s/n; r M$850; pnaiW)
This attractive, sand-colored hotel blends well with its desert surroundings, as do the modern rooms and, come to that, the bathrooms – all are decorated in tones of yellow and gold. There’s a souvenir shop and several computer terminals for the use of guests.
MalarrimoMEXICAN$$
(www.malarrimo.com; Blvd Zapata 42; mains M$145-275; h7:30am-10:30pm; pW)
A solid dining choice at this long-standing hotel, serving primarily seafood dishes; the fish soup comes highly recommended. Vegetarian meals are available on request and the adjacent bar and pool table could equal an evening’s entertainment in this somewhat sleepy town.
Santo RemedioMEXICAN$$
(%615-157-29-09; Carballo Félix; mains M$120-260; h8am-10pm; p)
One of the fancier Guerrero Negro options, with exceptional service, soft lighting, ocher-washed walls, a pretty patio and a variety of meat and seafood dishes, ranging from T-bone steak to Galician-style octopus.
8Information
There’s an ATM at Banamex.
Clínica Hospital IMSS (%615-157-03-33; Blvd Zapata) is Guerrero Negro’s main medical facility.
8Getting There & Away
Guerrero Negro’s tiny airport is 2km north of the state border, west of the Transpeninsular.
Aéreo Calafia (%615-157-29-99; www.aereocalafia.com.mx; Blvd Zapata; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Runs flights to Hermosillo and Guyamas and offers charters.
Bus Station (Blvd Marcello Rubio; h24hr) Offers wide range of bus services through-out Baja.
BUSES FROM GUERRERO NEGRO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ensenada | 1705 | 10 | 3 |
| La Paz | 1730 | 11 | 4 |
| Loreto | 825 | 5-6 | 2 |
| Santa Rosalia | 396 | 3 | 1 |
| Tijuana | 1300 | 11 | 3 |
San Ignacio
%615 / Pop 667
With its lush, leafy date palms and pretty, tranquil river, sleepy San Ignacio is a welcome oasis after the seemingly endless Desierto de Vizcaíno. Jesuits located the Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán here, but Dominicans supervised construction of the striking church (finished in 1786) that dominates the picturesque, laurel-shaded plaza.
1Sights
Misión San Ignacio de KadakaamánCHURCH
With lava-block walls nearly 1.2m (4ft) thick, the former Jesuit Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán stands directly across from San Ignacio’s small plaza and is flanked by a grove of citrus trees. Occupying the site of a former Cochimí ranchería (indigenous settlement), the mission has been in continuous use since its founding in 1728. It’s possibly the prettiest mission in Baja.
One of the three 18th-century altarpieces inside is dedicated to the San Ignacio de Loyola, the town’s patron saint. The mission was initiated by the famous Jesuit Fernando Consag, and was completed in 1786 under the direction of Dominican Juan Crisóstomo Gómez. Epidemics reduced the Cochimí population from about 5000 to only 120 by the late 18th century, but the mission lasted until 1840.
MuseumMUSEUM
(Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) 
F
This small museum offers a glimpse of the area’s natural history and also recreates the famous cave drawings found in the Sierra de San Francisco.
Casa LereéMUSEUM
(%615-154-01-58; www.casaleree.com; Morelos 20; h10am-1pm & 4-5pm Mon-Sat) F
Part museum and part bookstore, this beautiful old building sits around a verdant garden with magnificent trees, including a soaring (and shady) ficus indiga. The US owner is a wealth of information about the area and has one of the best collections of books on Baja anywhere.
TTours
Ecoturismo KuyimaADVENTURE
(%615-154-00-70; www.kuyima.com; Plaza Benito Juaréz 9; cave painting day tours per person US$60-95; h8am-8pm)
This very friendly and helpful local cooperative on the plaza arranges whale-watching trips to the beautiful Laguna San Ignacio, and can help arrange visits to the otherwise difficult-to-reach rock-art sites in the Sierra de San Francisco.
4Sleeping & Eating
oIgnacio SpringsB&B$$
(%615-154-03-33; www.ignaciosprings.com; San Ignacio; d US$68-130; paW
#)
This Canadian-owned B&B comprises yurts and cabañas (cabins). Idyllically situated fronting the lagoon, the decor ranges from conventional US-style to Aztec ethnic, with brightly colored rugs and ceramics. Breakfast includes homemade breads, preserves and (even) sausages. Kayaks available.
Hotel Desert InnHOTEL$$
(%615-154-03-00; mmabarca@fonatur.gob.mx; Camino a San Ignacio Km 72; d M$1200; pW
s)
It looks like a prison from the outside, but past the bleak facade is a modern mission-style hotel with spacious, airy rooms decorated in a soothing palette of creams, browns and ocher, plus plenty of wardrobe space and large walk-in showers. Rooms are set around a central pool area landscaped with lofty palms and dazzling bougainvillea bushes.
Rice & BeansCAFE$
(www.riceandbeansoasis.com; meals M$80-250; h8am-9pm)
For something different, stop at this clean, American-diner-style biker joint serving cheap breakfasts, comidas corridas (set lunches), stuffed potatoes and excellent tortas (sandwiches). The road-weary can also stay in one of the large but dingy and old rooms for US$40.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (%615-154-04-68) is near the San Lino junction outside of town. Buses pick up passengers here, arriving about every four hours from 5am to 11pm, both north- and southbound to locations such as Tijuana (M$1855), La Paz (M$1480) and Cabo San Lucas (M$1844).
CALIFORNIA GRAY WHALES
The migration of gray whales from Siberian and Alaskan waters to the lagoons of Baja is an amazing animal event. In the calving grounds of Laguna Ojo de Liebre and Laguna San Ignacio, 700kg calves will draw their first breaths and begin learning the lessons of the sea from their ever-watchful mothers. The season is long but varies due to the fact that some whales arrive early in the Pacific lagoons, while others take weeks or months to round Land’s End and find their favorite bays in the Sea of Cortez.
Peak months to see mothers and calves in the lagoons are February to early April, but the official whale-watching season begins December 15 and lasts until April 15.
If you’ve got ballena (whale) fever, one of these destinations will provide a cure:
A Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Scammon’s Lagoon)
A Laguna San Ignacio
A Puerto López Mateos
Sierra de San Francisco
The sheer quantity of beautiful petroglyphs in this region is impressive, and the ocher, red, black and white paintings remain shrouded in mystery. In recognition of its cultural importance, the Sierra de San Francisco has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site. It is also part of the Reserva de la Biosfera El Vizcaíno. Although day trips are possible, to see the region’s highlights you’ll need to trek for a few days with local rancher guides and donkeys to carry gear.
ON A MISSION FROM GOD
Baja’s missions have a dubious history – built by Jesuits and Dominicans intent on bringing salvation, they instead brought death through introduced European diseases. Many missions were abandoned as populations dropped below sustainable levels. Today, however, these beautiful buildings, whether in use or out in the middle of nowhere, make for great photos and fun day trips, and they’re an undeniable part of Baja’s checkered past. You should not need a 4WD to visit any of those listed here, though the roads can be impressively bad (or impassable) at times.
Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto The oldest mission and an impressive monument still in use today.
Misión San Borja Out in the middle of nowhere but well worth the drive. Its treasures include a hot spring and a secret tunnel (now walled up). José Gerardo, a descendant of the original preconquest inhabitants, will show you around.
Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó Remote and beautifully preserved, it feels like stepping back in time. The drive here offers awesome vistas and even some cave paintings along the way.
Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé Extremely photogenic. Don’t miss the view from behind looking out over the palm-edged river.
Resources for further reading include Las Misiones Antiguas, by Edward W Vernon, and www.vivabaja.com/bajamissions; both feature beautiful photos.
1Sights
Cueva del RatónARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Named for an image of what inhabitants once thought was a rat (or mouse) but is more likely a deer, this is the most easily accessible cave in the Sierra de San Francisco.
Drivers can get here on their own after registering and paying the park entry (M$65) and guide fee (M$150 for two people) at the office of the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH; %615-154-02-22; Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán museum; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, daily Nov-Mar), inside the Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán museum in San Ignacio, then picking up their guide in the pueblo closest to the paintings. Bringing a camera costs M$45 per day. INAH fees for guides for other trips start at M$150 per day, and each pack animal adds M$250. These are INAH fees only, and guides themselves charge additional (varying) fees.
8Getting There & Away
The beautiful mule-back descent of Cañón San Pablo requires at least two days, and preferably three, and is best done through a tour operator like Ecoturismo Kuyimá, which can arrange three-day trips for around US$240 per person (four-person minimum; supplies not included). Longer tours are also available.
Self drivers should head to the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia for advice and directions before heading off.
Santa Rosalía
%615 / Pop 12,000
Southbound travelers will welcome their first sight of the Sea of Cortez after crossing the Desierto de Vizcaíno. Santa Rosalía’s brightly painted and strangely Wild West–feeling clapboard-sided houses, Eifel Tower-design-cousin Iglesia Santa Bábara, French cowboy bakery, malecón (seaside promenade) and mining museum are prime attractions, although they’re rivaled by the black-sand beaches, lazy pelicans and great views from the surrounding hills. This is no holiday-haven to be sure, but it is a unique stop worth a look.
The town has become a prosperous mining center once again, with the reopening of the historic El Boleo copper and cobalt opencast mine in 2013 adding around 3800 jobs to the local economy. As such there’s a real industrial, hard-working vibe to the town.
1Sights
oIglesia Santa BárbaraCHURCH
(Av Obregón 20)
Designed and erected for Paris’ 1889 World’s Fair, then disassembled and stored in Brussels for shipping to West Africa, Gustave Eiffel’s (yes, of Eiffel Tower fame) prefabricated Iglesia Santa Bárbara was, instead, shipped here when a Boleo Company director signed for its delivery to the town in 1895.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Las Casitas de Santa RosaliaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%615-152-30-23; www.facebook.com/Las-Casitas-Santa-Rosalia-164100420829302; Carretera Sur Km 195; s/d M$850/1150; pW)
US-owned Las Casitas has a real five-star holiday-in-the-sun look with large rooms that have balconies, seamless Sea of Cortez views, exquisite tilework and tasteful artwork. The less expensive doubles share the views, but are considerably smaller; there is a small communal space with some cooking facilities plus a state-of-the art exercise bike for the use of guests.
Hotel FrancésHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%615-152-20-52; www.hotelfrances.com; Av Cousteau 15; r incl breakfast M$920; pWs)
Overlooking the Sea of Cortez and rusting hulks of mine machinery, historic Hotel Francés is a colonial gem. Built in 1886 and originally the dormitory for the ‘working girls’ of a brothel near the mine, the hotel features beautiful rooms with high ceilings, cool cloth-covered walls and charming stained-wood details.
oPanadería El BoleoBAKERY$
(%615-152-03-10; Av Obregón 30; baked goods M$8-12; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
Since 1901 this has been an obligatory stop for those in search of Mexican pastries and, more unusually, French baguettes in a weirdly Wild West ramshackle building. While the pastries may not be world class, the setting is so unusual you have to cowboy up to the counter and order at least one. No seating.
8Getting There & Away
The passenger/auto ferry Santa Rosalía sails to Guaymas at 8:30am on Wednesday and Friday and 8pm on Saturday, arriving 10 hours later. It returns from Guaymas at 8pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Double-check in advance as timings may change.
The ticket office is at the ferry terminal (%615-152-12-46; www.ferrysantarosalia.com; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 3-8pm Sun) on the highway. Passenger fares are around M$930 (children’s tickets are half price). Vehicle rates vary with vehicle length.
The bus terminal (%615-152-14-08; h24hr) is found just south of the entrance to town, in the same building as the ferry terminal.
BUSES FROM SANTA ROSALíA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ensenada | 1652 | 13 | 2 |
| Guerrero Negro | 396 | 3 | 1 |
| La Paz | 1021 | 8 | 5 |
| Loreto | 461 | 3½ | 6 |
| Mulegé | 120 | 1 | 5 |
| San Ignacio | 145 | 1 | 4 |
| San José del Cabo | 1402 | 13 | 1 |
| Tijuana | 1616 | 14 | 3 |
Mulegé
%615 / Pop 3821
The palm- and mangrove-lined Río Mulegé, with its delta, birds, wildlife and nearby snorkeling and diving opportunities, makes Mulegé a great stop for the outdoorsy or those with kids. Set down in a narrow arroyo (stream), Mulegé is prone to flooding when it gets pummeled by hurricanes and major storms (which tends to happen every two to three years). The river setting plus the 18th-century mission and town square give the town a remote, old-town feeling unique in Baja.
As you wind your way south from Mulegé, you’ll pass some of the peninsula’s most beautiful, turquoise-lapped playas (beaches) along Bahía Concepción, The pelican colonies, funky rock formations and milky, blue-green water make it a top stop for kayakers, even though several of the beaches are becoming more built up.
1Sights
oBahía ConcepciónBEACH
One of the most stunningly beautiful stretches of coast in Baja with blue-green waters, white sandy coves and comparably less construction. Great for kayaking.
Museo MulegéMUSEUM
(Barrio Canenea; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat; c) F
This former territorial prison was famed for allowing prisoners to roam free in town during the day, although the women inmates stayed to cook and clean. Now it holds a small collection of fairly mundane prison artifacts plus a mummified cat. Note the blackened cell where a prisoner apparently set fire to himself after hearing his wife was having an affair.
Misión Santa Rosalía de MulegéCHURCH
Come to the imposing, stone hilltop Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé (founded in 1705, completed in 1766 and abandoned in 1828) for great photos of the site and river valley.
WORTH A TRIP
CAñON LA TRINIDAD
Trinity Canyon is great for bird-watchers, with the chance to see vermilion flycatchers, gila woodpeckers and a host of raptors and buteos. The narrow, sherbet-colored canyon walls and shimmering pools of water are stunning, as are the pre-Hispanic cave paintings.
Rendered in shades of ocher and rust, the paintings feature shamans, manta rays, whales and the famous Trinity Deer, leaping gracefully from the walls of the cave as arrows pass harmlessly over its head. You’re not allowed to enter by yourself, but Mulegé native Salvador Castro Drew of Mulegé Tours (%615-161-49-85; mulegetours@hotmail.com; day excursions per person M$600-700) knows just about everything about the site you’d want to know, including how to avoid the two nasty beehives that ‘guard’ the paintings. He also does taxi runs to other area sites.
2Activities
Mulegé’s best diving spots can be found around the Santa Inés Islands (north of town) and just north of Punta Concepción (south of town). Diving tour operators come and go, so ask around. The beautiful river, the estuary delta and the southern beaches make Mulegé a prime spot for kayaking.
NOLS MexicoKAYAKING
(%US 800-710-6657, US 307-332-5300; www.nols.edu/courses/locations/mexico/; h1-week sailing courses US$1900) 
S
Runs sea-kayaking, sailing and wilderness courses and trips out of its sustainable, ecofriendly facility on Coyote Bay, south of Mulegé.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mulegé is a very popular expat and snowbird haunt where people own their property, and short-term lodging options are pretty sparse.
Hotel Las CasitasHOTEL$
(%615-153-00-19; javieraguiarz51@hotmail.com; Madero 50; s/d M$550/650; pnaW)
Perhaps inspired by its very pretty courtyard, fountains, statues and shady garden of tropical plants, beloved Mexican poet Alán Gorosave once inhabited this hotel. The restaurant serves decent food and has an open-fire grill. The rooms are simple and somewhat threadbare, but smell like cinnamon and oranges and are decorated with traditional fabrics and artwork.
Hotel MulegéHOTEL$
(%615-153-00-90; Moctezuma s/n; d M$550; paiW)
Located just beyond the arch at the entrance to town, this place is an unmemorable motel on the outside, but the spotless, modern, brightly painted rooms make it the best deal in town. The staff are extra-friendly and helpful as well.
Hotel SerenidadHOTEL$$
(%615-153-05-30; www.serenidad.com.mx; Mulegé; d/tr M$1200/1400, cabañas M$2100; pnaWs)
Dating back to the 1960s, this hotel is a local institution. Plenty of famous folk have flown into the bumpy private airstrip here, including John Wayne. The rambling, dusty property has loads of backcountry character, with a vast restaurant, rustic and authentic-to-the-era double rooms and small cabañas. There’s a pig roast every Saturday with live music. It’s 3.8km from town, off the highway to the south.
Ana’sSEAFOOD$$
(Playa Santispac; mains M$140-240; h8am-9pm; p)
In the mood for seafood? Then it is well worth the 10km drive southwest of town to this lovely beachside restaurant where you can dine on a succulent seafood platter comprising shrimp, clams and whatever has been caught that day. If you’re here earlier in the day, grab a fresh cinnamon bun. Popular with families at weekends.
Doney Mely’sMEXICAN$$
(%615-153-00-95; Moctezuma s/n; mains M$90-180; h7:30am-10pm Wed-Mon; Wc)
A colorfully decorated restaurant and bar with a special weekend menu for two that includes a gut-busting choice of local favorites like chiles rellenos (chilies stuffed with meat or cheese) and enchiladas verdes. Breakfasts complete with espresso beverages come recommended as well.
Los EquipalesINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%615-153-03-30; Moctezuma s/n; mains M$100-375; h8am-10pm; W)
Just west of Zaragoza, this restaurant and bar has gargantuan meals and bright, enclosed balcony seating that’s perfect for an evening margarita with friends. Lobster salad, T-bone steak and fried chicken are a sampling of the surf and turf fare.
8Getting There & Away
Bus Terminal (Transpeninsular Km 132; h8am-11pm) Located near the large entry arch, northbound destinations include Santa Rosalía (M$120, one hour) and Tijuana (M$2030, 16 hours) and stop three times daily. Southbound buses pass to destinations including Loreto (M$225, two hours) and La Paz (M$1170, six hours) five times daily.
Loreto
%613 / Pop 17,000
Loreto feels like somewhere between an old and new world. Linger along cobblestone streets, past shops selling pottery and a centuries-old mission to find local teenagers practicing a hip-hop act in the square. Perhaps sit at an outdoor cafe to try some local craft beer or stroll along the malécon (beach promenade) where an old man hobbles along with a cane and young women jog by in the latest workout gear. Out in that blue water is a water-sports paradise and the magnificent Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto, where the shoreline, ocean and stunning offshore islands are protected from pollution and uncontrolled fishing.
Anthropologists believe the Loreto area to be the oldest human settlement on the Baja Peninsula. Indigenous cultures thrived here due to plentiful water and food. In 1697 Jesuit Juan María Salvatierra established the peninsula’s first permanent mission at this modest port backed by soaring mountains.
1Sights
oParque Marine Nacional Bahía de LoretoPARK
(entry fee M$33)
This park makes Loreto a world-class destination for all types of outdoor activities; a number of outfitters offer everything from kayaking and diving to stand-up paddleboarding and snorkeling along the reefs around Islas del Carmen and dormant-volcano-dominated Coronado Islands. Aside from gray whales that frequent the Sea of Cortez, this is the best place to see blue whales. Pay the entrance fee at the park’s office in the marina. Staff can advise on water activities.
Sierra de la GigantaOUTDOORS
The trails in the rugged, striated mountains that rise up behind Loreto are seldom marked, but there’s great hiking for the fit and adventurous. Guides can be found at the Municipal Department of Tourism or via www.hikingloreto.com (you can also order a hiking guidebook here). Take lots of precautions out here as there’s no cell-phone service.
Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-BiaundóCHURCH
(San Javier) F
This wonderful mission is well worth a daytime detour. The windy road passes some beautiful arroyos (streams) before arriving at the mission. Be sure to wander to the back garden to see the 300-year-old olive tree with rope-like bark that looks like something out of a Tolkien fantasy. The mission itself is almost unchanged from its look of three centuries ago.
Head south on the Transpeninsular for around 35km and look for the sign to the right shortly after you leave Loreto. Guides at the mission may offer to take you to see cave paintings (guide fee M$300; entry to the caves M$100). Note that this involves driving 15km on a very rough road and climbing a steep rocky hill to see a very small wall with several red paintings.
Misión Nuestra Señora de LoretoCHURCH
Dating from 1697, this was the first permanent mission in the Californias and was the base for the expansion of Jesuit missions up and down the Baja peninsula. Alongside the church, the Museo de las Misiones (%613-135-04-41; Salvatierra 16; M$50; h9am-1pm & 1:45-6pm Tue-Sun) chronicles the settlement of Baja California.
2Activities
Home to the beautiful waters and islands in Parque Marine Nacional Bahía de Loreto, Loreto is a world-class destination for all types of ocean activities from kayaking and fishing to diving and snorkeling. The gorgeous coast is backed by the equally stunning Sierra de la Giganta, perfect for off-the-beaten-path horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking.
Loreto is awash with companies offering outdoor sports.
Loreto Sea and Land ToursWATER SPORTS
(%613-135-06-80; www.toursloreto.com; Madero; diving/snorkeling/whale-watching from US$110/65/130; c) S
This recommended ecofriendly place covers a wide range of activities, including diving, kayaking and snorkeling.
4Sleeping
oHostal Casas LoretoHOTEL$
(%613-116-70-14; Misioneros 14; s/d M$600/800; aW)
Rooms here are set around a long covered courtyard, are spotless and charmingly decorated with rustic furniture and stone walls. There’s a well-equipped kitchen for guests and the owner, Abel, likes to bring everyone together to hang out in the common areas.
La Damiana InnHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%613-135-03-56; www.ladamianainn.com; Madero 8; r US$75, casitas US$90; naW#)
This historical posada has spacious, individually furnished rooms with decor ranging from brightly colored Baja fabrics, ceramics and artwork to mellow earth tones and native American pieces. There’s a communal kitchen and a gorgeous mature garden with fruit trees and hammocks.
There is also a charming casita (small house) that sleeps up to four people, with its own kitchen and secluded terrace. It’s well worth the extra pesos.
Posada de las FloresLUXURY HOTEL$$
(%613-135-11-62; www.posadadelasflores.com; Plaza Cívica; r incl breakfast from US$100; naWs)
Sitting majestically on the main plaza in town, the interior has a palatial feel due to its stone columns and arches, trickling fountains and an earthy color palette. Rooms are surprisingly small, dark and characterless. Not to worry: the stunning public spaces extend to a rooftop pool, bar and terrace that have views stretching to the mission.
Posada del CortesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%613-135-02-58; www.posadadelcortes.com; El Pipila 4; r M$1500; naW#)
This elegant small hotel exudes a chic atmosphere with ocher-and-cream paintwork, forest-green tilework, dark-wood furniture and lashings of white linen. There’s a small terrace with wrought-iron furniture and a trickling fountain. Rooms include coffee makers.
5Eating
Enjoy the regional standards: excellent seafood with plenty of tasty lime and cilantro, potent margaritas and fruity aguas frescas (ice drinks).
oAsadero Super BurroMEXICAN$
(Fernández; tacos M$25-40, burritos M$95-120; h6pm-midnight Thu-Tue)
At this locals’ favorite, watch this team of women press fresh tortillas, and stew and grill the beef and chicken at the open kitchen. Super Burro is known for it’s flavorful arrachera (grilled skirt steak), gigantic burritos and equally huge stuffed potatoes. If you’re not sharing, famished or used to eating things the size of your head, stick with the tacos.
Tacos del ReyMEXICAN$
(cnr Juárez & Misioneros; tacos M$30; h9am-2pm)
The best fish tacos in town are sold at this simple kiosk-cum-restaurant, which is clinical in its cleanliness. The carne asado (roasted meat) is another standout and there is plenty of topping choice to custom-design your taco.
Pan Que PanMEXICAN, ITALIAN$
(Hidalgo s/n; breakfasts M$25-95; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun) S
Serving simply awesome breakfasts, this friendly, funky alfresco cafe and bakery offers big omelettes served with beans, avocado, local cheese and fresh bread, continental-style lighter breakfasts of granola or pastries and a decadent French toast with caramelized bananas. Stay for lunch for salads, pizzas, baguette sandwiches and homemade pasta.
El Zopilote Brewery & CocinaMEXICAN, ITALIAN$$
(Davis 18; mains M$99-160; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun)
Owned by a Mexican-Irish couple (ask how they met; now there’s a story!), this restaurant and microbrewery has cuisine that is fittingly diverse, ranging from creamy pastas to fillet steak and chicken fajitas. Its decor and airy terrace make it a good choice for a romantic dinner. Don’t miss trying one of its locally brewed beers.
7Shopping
Baja BooksBOOKS
(Hidalgo 19; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
The most comprehensive collection of books on Baja in the region, plus maps, art materials, pottery and a bottomless coffee pot for browsers.
Silver DesertSILVER
(%613-135-06-84; Salvatierra 36; h9am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
Sells good-quality Taxco sterling-silver jewelry. There’s a second outlet at Magdalena de Kino 4 (%613-135-06-84; h9am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun).
8Getting There & Away
Aeropuerto Internacional de Loreto (%613-135-04-99; Carretera Transpeninsular Km 7) Served by several airlines, including Calafia Airlines (www.calafiaairlines.com) and Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com), which run direct flights to Los Angeles. Taxis from the airport, 4km south of Loreto, cost M$250.
Bus Station (h24hr) Near the convergence of Salvatierra, Paseo de Ugarte and Paseo Tamaral, a 15-minute walk from the town center.
Puerto San Carlos
%613 / Pop 5538
Puerto San Carlos is a deep-water port and bustling little fishing town located 57km west of Ciudad Constitución on Bahía Magdalena. The town turns its attention to whales and travelers when the ballenas arrive in January through March to calve in the warm lagoon.
2Activities
Pangueros (boatmen) take passengers for whale-watching excursions (about M$850 per hour for six people) or you can sign up with a more organized outfit like Ecotours Villas Mar y Arena (%613-136-00-76; www.villasmaryarena.com; Carretera Federal Km 57; 3hr private whale-watching tours US$210; hOct-Jun; c) S or Magdalena Bay Whales (%US 855-594-2537; www.magdalenabaywhales.com; Puerto La Paz; 6hr tours US$90-100; h4am-noon; c).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Mar y ArenaCABAñAS$$
(%613-136-00-76; www.villasmaryarena.com; Carretera Federal Km 57; r US$70-100; pnaW) S
These palapa-style cabañas have chic earth-toned interiors and luxurious bathrooms. Solar power, desalinated water and a sensitivity to feng shui principles are all part of the local owner’s eco-vision.
Hotel AlcatrazHOTEL$$
(%613-136-00-17; www.hotelalcatraz.mx; Calle San Jose del Cabo s/n; r incl breakfast M$820-990; paW)
Nothing like its namesake prison, this pretty, rambling hotel has rooms set around a mature leafy courtyard, complete with sunbeds under the trees. Attractive pale-blue tilework gives the decor a sunny seaside feel. There is also a bar and restaurant (mains M$100 to M$250).
Los ArcosSEAFOOD$$
(Puerto La Paz 170; mains M$90-280; h10am-9pm)
A simple place with tables set under the palm fronds, but the seafood dishes are the town’s best. Go for one of the nine shrimp dishes or a simple pescado de la plancha (grilled fish). Note that the taco stand across the road from here is great too.
8Getting There & Away
Autotransportes Águila (%613-136-04-53; Calle Puerto Morelos; h7-7:30am, 11:30am-1:45pm & 6:30-7:30pm) Runs buses daily to/from Ciudad Constitución (M$110) and La Paz (M$665), where you can connect to other destinations.
La Paz
%612 / Pop 258,000
At first glance La Paz is a sprawling, slightly dingy city, but after an hour or so you’ll discover there’s a lot more to it. Laid-back, old-world beauty can be found on a stroll along the waterfront malecón or in the older architecture around the Plaza Constitución; chichi restaurants, cafes and bars cunningly hide in between the cracks. It’s a surprisingly international town – you’re as likely to hear French, Portuguese or Italian here as English or Spanish, and yet paradoxically it’s the most ‘Mexican’ city in all of Baja. Its quirky history includes American occupation and even being temporarily declared its own republic.
All in all, it’s a great place to meander, and you can shop uninterrupted by touts’ invitations as you blend in to the urban vibe. The city makes a good base for day trips to Espíritu Santo, Cabo Pulmo and Todos Santos.
La Paz
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
oEspíritu SantoISLAND
A treasure trove of shallow azure inlets and sorbet-pink cliffs, Espíritu Santo is one of La Paz’s gems. It’s part of a Unesco World Heritage site comprising 244 Sea of Cortez islands and coastal areas, and is a worthy day trip. A number of operators run activities here, including kayaking and snorkeling.
oMuseo de la BallenaMUSEUM
(map Google map www.museodelaballena.org; Paseo Obregón; adult/child M$160/120; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This recently remodeled museum comprises five exhibition spaces with models, audiovisual displays and multilingual explanations concerning the gray whales that live and breed in the local waters. A soundtrack of whales in the wild adds to the atmosphere, as does the well-lit and airy gallery spaces. The museum’s foundation promotes the study and conservation of whales.
There is also a section dedicated to local turtles covering the seven different species native to Mexico, plus a cafeteria and a gift shop.
MalecónWATERFRONT
(map)
La Paz’s waterfront, with its wide sidewalk, tiny beaches, tourist pier, benches, sculptures by local artists and unimpeded sunset views, is the city’s highlight. It stretches 5.5km, from the Marina de la Paz in the south to Playa Coromuel in the north. It started getting a face-lift in 2017 that may continue in stages over a few years.
Museo Regional de Antropología e HistoriaMUSEUM
(map Google map cnr Calles 5 de Mayo & Altamirano; adult/child under 12yr M$40/free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; c)
This is a large, well-organized museum chronicling the peninsula’s history (in Spanish) from prehistory to the Revolution of 1910 and its aftermath.
2Activities
oBaja Outdoor ActivitiesKAYAKING
(BOA; %612-125-56-36; www.kayactivities.com; Pichilingue Km 1; multiday kayak trips from US$585; h8am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-3:30pm Sun)
Kayak and camp around Espíritu Santo or take the ultimate eight-day circumnavigation tour. This is the very best way to experience the beautiful island.
Red Travel MexicoECOTOUR
(map Google map %612-122-60-57; www.redtravelmexico.com; Salvatierra 740, Colina de la Cruz; walking tours US$25; h9am-6pm; c)
Finances major conservation projects throughout Baja like endangered sea-turtle monitoring. Other activities include walking tours, educational activities for children and deep-sea diving in Cabo Pulmo.
Mar y AventurasKAYAKING
(map Google map %612-122-70-39; www.kayakbaja.com; Topete 564; day trips US$40-115; c)
A well-respected company offering sea-kayaking, whale-watching, diving and fishing trips. Also has kayak rentals for self-guided tours.
Carey Dive CenterDIVING, SNORKELING
(map Google map %612-128-40-48; www.buceocarey.com; Topete 3040; snorkeling US$85, two-tank dives US$150; c)
A family-run establishment that offers snorkeling, diving, whale-watching, trips to see a sea-lion colony and other tours.
TTours
Espíritu & BajaOUTDOORS
(map %612-122-44-27; www.espiritubaja.com; Paseo Obregón 2130-D; full-day trips US$85)
This company has knowledgable, fun guides that are passionate about the science and history of the area. Choose from Espíritu Santo day trips, shorter whale-shark tours (three-hour tour US$70) and gray-whale-watching from Bahia Magdalena on the Pacific Coast.
Whale Shark MexicoWILDLIFE
(map %612-154-98-59; www.whalesharkmexico.com; Paseo Obregón 2140; day trips US$85, two-month internships US$3000; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) S
From October to March you can help researchers study juvenile whale sharks, which congregate in the placid waters of La Paz bay. Duties vary each trip: you can assist with tagging and even get a chance to name one. These researchers do not rent or provide any gear, and trips must be arranged in advance and only when the weather conditions are right.
zFestivals & Events
CarnavalCARNIVAL
(hFeb)
The annual carnival here is considered to be one of the country’s best, with parades, concerts and plenty of partying in the streets.
4Sleeping
oPension Baja ParadisePENSION$
(map Madero 2166; s without bathroom M$300, d/t with bathroom from M$400/580)
Spotless, with comfy modern beds, reliably hot showers and cold air-conditioning plus touches of art and driftwood all around, this Mexican-Japanese-run place is a lovely place to stay. There’s a kitchen and a coin laundry for guest use and it’s near lots of great places to eat. The only downfall is the loud music from a local bar some nights, so bring earplugs!
Posada de la MisionHOTEL$
(map %612-128-77-67; www.posadadelamision.com; Paseo Obregón 220; studio M$595, ste M$1100-1400; naW)
With a fantastic location right on the central waterfront, this classic hacienda-style hotel offers great value, especially for families. The large studio double rooms are often full, but for those with kids in tow, it’s the multistory suites with kitchenettes and two or more bedrooms that are a real boon. Decor is simple and floral, and service is lovely.
Baja Bed & BreakfastB&B$$
(map Google map %612-156-07-93, 612-158-21-65,; Madero 354; s/d incl breakfast US$66/72; Ws)
Located in the trendiest part of town with organic stores and cafes, this homey, aging B&B has rooms and a leafy patio set around a small pool and outdoor kitchen for the use of guests. Terracotta tiles, pastel paintwork and tasteful art on the walls contribute to the very welcoming feel. Book by phone or third-party website.
oEl Ángel AzulBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %612-125-51-30; www.elangelazul.com; Av Independencia 518; r US$100-110; pnaW)
Possibly the loveliest of La Paz’ lodging options, the Blue Angel offers simply furnished, pastel-washed rooms, which surround a beautiful courtyard that is filled with palms, cacti, birdsong and bougainvillea. There is a colorfully cluttered bar and sitting room, plus a kitchen for the use of guests.
Casa TuscanyB&B$$$
(map Google map %612-128-81-03; www.tuscanybaja.com; Av Bravo 110; d incl breakfast US$79-118; naW)
Situated a seagull’s swoop from the malecón, this picturesque B&B has homey rooms decorated with brightly colored paintwork, local rugs and traditional ceramics. Set around a tranquil central courtyard, the rooms vary in size; the most expansive, ‘Romeo & Juliet,’ has three terraces on several levels with sea views. Breakfast includes aebleskiver (Danish pancakes).
5Eating
La Paz’ restaurant scene has become increasingly sophisticated – you’ll find most of the top culinary choices on Calles Domínguez and Madero, north of Calle 5 de Mayo.
Organic MarketMARKET
(map Google map Madero s/n; h9am-2:30pm Sat)
This small organic market is fun for a browse around and sells all kinds of locally produced gourmet goodies, as well as local cheeses, homemade cakes and bread.
oTaco Fish La PazSEAFOOD$
(map Google map cnr Avs Márques de León & Héroes de la Independencia; tacos M$24-30; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Largely undiscovered by tourists, locals have been coming here in droves since 1992. Expect pristine stainless-steel surfaces and the best fish tacos in town. The extra battered, crispy fish style is reminiscent of an outstanding British fish and chips. The ceviche is off the charts as well.
Dulce Romero Panaderia GourmetBAKERY$
(Allende 167; breakfasts M$58-98; h8am-10pm, closed Sun; a)
Come to this clean, modern, white-brick space for delicious all-organic breakfasts of perfectly poached eggs, local cheeses, veggies, salsas and more on straight-from-the-oven breads and croissants. Sandwiches and salads are served at lunch, and pizza, pasta and burgers for dinner. Then the scrumptious cakes, pastries and myriad baked goods will have you drooling for dessert.
Bagel ShopBAGELS$
(map Google map Domínguez 291; bagels from M$45; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun)
Owner Fabrizio learned the art of bagel making in the USA, and he makes a steaming batch daily. Fillings range from classic lox and cream cheese to smoked marlin with German sausage.
oMaria CaliforniaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map Juárez 105; breakfast mains M$69-116; h7:30am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Great for breakfast with live music and a fabulous atmosphere throughout the cozy cluttered dining rooms and terraces. Local artwork, photos and brilliant colored paintwork adorn the walls. Order Mexican classics, pancakes and fresh smoothies and juices.
BismarkcitoMEXICAN, SEAFOOD$$
(map Google map cnr Obregón & Constitución; mains from M$150; h9am-10pm)
This seafront restaurant, fronted by its own taco stand, is always packed with locals here for the superb seafood. Consider ordering the lobster chowder. TVs, exposed brick walls and jaunty blue-and-white table linen decorate the huge dining room. Service can be slow, but who’s in a hurry?
NimINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map www.nimrestaurante.com; Revolución 1110; mains M$190-360; h1-10:30pm; W)
In a sumptuous historic house with art deco floor tiles and a chic pale-gray painted interior, organic produce is used in dishes that span the continents, like Moroccan tagines, Italian pastas, clam chowder and locally sourced sautéed oysters. Hugely popular with the resident expat population, it’s La Paz at its most cosmopolitan.
Las Tres VirgenesINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %612-165-62-65; Madero 1130; mains M$120-500; h1-11pm)
An elegant oasis of a restaurant where you can dine in an atmospheric courtyard surrounded by leafy trees and statues. The menu includes both traditional and innovative dishes like grilled baby octopus, lots of export-quality Mexican beef cuts, spicy sea snails and a classic Caesar salad. Reservations recommended.
6Drinking & Entertainment
The highest concentration of bars is between Calles 16 de Septiembre and Agustín Arreola, across from the malecón .
Harker BoardBAR
(map Google map cnr Constutución & Paseo Obregón; h2pm-2am Wed-Mon; W)
Head upstairs to the terrace for sweeping views over the bay and a cerveza (beer). The local Baja Brewery beer is on tap, and there are 17 more bottled varieties. Pizza is also available. This great place doubles as a rental place for stand-up paddleboards (M$200 per hour) and kayaks (M$150 per hour) with rentals available 11am to 6pm.
Club MarlinBAR
(El Centenario; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; W)
Located in El Centenario, around 5km north of the center, this hotel, bar and restaurant dates from the 1980s and has long served as the resident expat haunt. The views of the bay are sublime and the place (and patrons) have plenty of sun-kissed warmth and character. Regular live music.
Teatro de la CiudadLIVE PERFORMANCE
(map Google map %612-125-00-04; Altamirano; hhours vary)
Features performances by musical and theatrical groups, often by performers from mainland Mexico, as well as occasional film series. The giant theater is within the Unidad Cultural Profesor Jesús Castro Agúndez (map Google map %612-125-02-07; hCultural Center 8am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri).
7Shopping
Local stores that cater to tourists have plenty of junk but a smattering of good stuff.
Ibarra’s PotteryCERAMICS
(map Google map Prieto 625; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
See potters at work at this ceramics workshop and store that dates back to 1958 – it is famed throughout Baja.
Allende BooksBOOKS
(map Google map %612-125-91-14; www.allendebooks.com; Av Independencia 518; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
English-language bookstore with a good selection of books on Baja California and mainland Mexico.
8Information
The majority of banks (most with ATMs) and casas de cambio (exchange houses) are on or around Calle 16 de Septiembre.
There’s an immigration office (%612-122-04-29; Paseo Obregón; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) near the center of town.
Hospital Salvatierra (%612-175-05-00; Av Paseo de los Deportistas 86; h24hr) The largest hospital in southern Baja, located 4.6km southwest of the center, via calles 5 de Febrero and Forjadores de Sudcalifornia.
Main post office (cnr Constitución & Revolución; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
State Tourist Information Booth (%612-122-59-39; cnr Paseo Obregón & Av Bravo; h8am-10pm) Brochures and pamphlets in English, plus some maps; very helpful.
Tourist Police (%078, 612-122-59-39; h8am-10pm) Small booth on Paseo Obregón; hours may vary.
Viva La Paz (www.vivalapaz.com) La Paz’ official tourism site.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto General Manuel Márquez de León (%612-124-63-36; www.aeropuertosgap.com.mx; Transpeninsular Km 9) is about 9km southwest of the city. It has an immigration office.
Aeroméxico (%612-122-00-91; www.aeromexico.com; Paseo Obregón) flies to many cities via Mexico City while Calafia Airlines (www.calafiaairlines.com; cnr Santiago & Mulege) offers the most direct flights to La Paz, including to/from Guadalajara and Tijuana.
BOAT
Ferries to Mazatlán and Topolobampo leave the ferry terminal at Pichilingue, 23km north of La Paz. Baja Ferries has a small office (%612-125-63-24) at the port and a larger office (%612-123-66-00; www.bajaferries.com; Allende 1025; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) in town.
Ferries to Mazatlán depart at 8pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and arrive 16 to 18 hours later; return ferries leave Mazatlán at 6:30pm Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Passenger fares in salón (numbered seats) are M$1240.
Topolobampo services depart at 2:30pm Monday to Friday and 11pm on Saturday. The return ferry from Topolobampo to La Paz leaves at 11pm Sunday to Friday, arriving in Pichilingue six to seven hours later. Passenger fares in salón are M$1000. Ensure that you arrive at the pier two hours before departure. Vehicle rates vary with vehicle length and destination.
Before shipping any vehicle to the mainland, officials require a vehicle permit. You can obtain one at Banjército (www.banjercito.com.mx; h7am-3pm Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 7pm Tue & Thu) at the ferry terminal, or from its vehicle permit modules in Mexicali or Tijuana.
CAR FERRIES FROM LA PAZ
| DESTINATION | VEHICLE | FARE (M$) |
|---|---|---|
| Mazatlán | car 5.4m or less/motorcycle/motorhome | 6380/3200/22,550 |
| Topolobampo | car 5.4m or less/motorcycle/motorhome | 4600/3730/17,500 |
BUS
The Terminal Turística (%612-122-78-98; cnr malecón & Av Independencia) is centrally located on the malecón. Convenient local services include five daily buses to Playa Tecolote (M$100, 30 minutes) and six to Playa Pichilingue (M$100, 20 minutes) between 10am and 5pm.
BUSES FROM LA PAZ
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabo San Lucas | 370 | 3 | frequent |
| Ciudad Constitución | 450 | 3 | 12 |
| Ensenada | 2140 | 22 | 3 |
| Guerrero Negro | 1730 | 11 | 4 |
| Loreto | 800 | 5 | 6 |
| Mulegé | 1170 | 6 | 5 |
| San Ignacio | 1480 | 9 | 4 |
| San José del Cabo | 340-370 | 3½ | frequent |
| SJD Airport | 545 | 3½ | frequent |
| Tijuana | 2505 | 24 | 3 |
| Todos Santos | 160 | 1½ | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Car-rental rates start around M$400 per day, not including insurance.
Budget (%612-122-60-40; www.budget.com; cnr Paseo Obregón & Allende) has several agencies with locations both on the malecón and at the airport.
8Getting Around
Uber has started in La Paz and rides cost about M$40 around town or around M$120 from the airport to the malecón area.
La Ventana
%612 / Pop 183
Attracting kitesurfers from around the world with its consistent wind, this strip of seaside is also a great place to watch whale sharks, sea lions, whales, sea turtles and a myriad of fish – without the crowds. Diving is best in the summer when the water visibility reaches 25m or 30m (80ft or 100ft).
4Sleeping & Eating
Baja Joe’sHOTEL$$
(%612-114-00-01; www.bajajoe.com; s US$40, d US$50-115; paW#)
This place is good value with tidy small rooms fronting a communal terrace and sharing a kitchen and common room. The property encompasses a kitesurfing school, two kitchens and Joe’s Garage, a popular bar with 10 frothy ales on tap.
oPalapas VentanaCABAñAS$$$
(%612-114-01-98; www.palapasventana.com; cabañas incl breakfast M$2260-3350; pnaiWs)
Stay in a delightful palapa-style cabaña (cabin) on a hillside just over the main beach. Palapas Ventana outfits for diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, kitesurfing, sportfishing, petroglyph hikes and more. It also organizes adventure tours to the Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra de la Laguna (and elsewhere). The restaurant is perfect for chilling out with an ocean view post-activities.
Playa CentralPIZZA$$
(www.facebook.com/playa.central.kiteboarding/; La Ventana; pizza M$125-250; h9am-10pm; pW)
Located beachside in the center of town, this cavernous former shrimp factory with a rooftop patio not only serves terrific thin-crust pizza but also has regular live music, a popular bar, and kitesurfing rental and instruction. Don’t miss its margaritas.
Las PalmasMEXICAN$$
(El Sargento; mains M$90-230; h8am-10pm)
Find this great big orange restaurant in El Sargento, a couple of kilometers north of La Ventana, in a sublime spot overlooking the water and Isla Cerralvo. The Mexican dishes are definitely a notch above the norm; try the chiles rellenos (chilies stuffed with meat or cheese).
8Getting There & Away
A bus leaves La Paz at 2pm daily for La Ventana (one way M$100) and makes the return trip to La Paz at around 7am daily. Most people, however, rent a car to get here.
Los Barriles
%624 / Pop 1200
South of La Paz, the Transpeninsular brushes the gulf at this attractive small town. It is a spectacular spot for wind- and kitesurfing thanks to brisk winter westerlies that average 20 to 25 knots. During whale season you can see spouts close to shore and hundreds of leaping mobula rays in the waves.
2Activities
Vela WindsurfWINDSURFING
(www.velawindsurf.com; Hotel Playa del Sol; kitesurfing lessons from US$90; h9am-5pm Dec-Apr)
One of the longer-established water-sports companies with centers worldwide, it caters to windsurfers, kitesurfers and stand-up paddleboarders. The winds die down considerably between April and August, so that is not a good time to take out a board.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Los BarrilesHOTEL$$
(%624-141-00-24; www.losbarrileshotel.com; 20 de Noviembre s/n; s/d US$65/80; paWs)
This hotel has a comfortable laid-back feel. Rooms are set around a pretty lagoon-style pool area, complete with outside bar and hot tub. The owner prides himself on his superior German mattresses and regularly updates the rooms; all have fridges.
Caleb’s CafeCAFE$$
(20 de Noviembre s/n; mains M$65-160; h7:30am-3pm Tue-Sat; W)
This delightful, American-run cafe is famed for its gooey, buttery, sticky buns. Other favorites include zucchini bread and carrot cake, while breakfasts are healthy and hearty (think broccoli scrambled eggs and feta-cheese omelette).
7Shopping
Plum LocoARTS & CRAFTS
(20 de Noviembre s/n; h9am-5pm)
The US owner, Paul, imports crafts from all over Mexico, as well as further afield. He also has free books and coffee for browsers and, as an amiable long-term resident, is a great source of information.
8Getting There & Away
Several daily buses run to Los Barriles from San José del Cabo (M$98, 1½ hours), en route to La Paz.
SURF’S UP
Baja is a prime surfer’s paradise with swells coming in off the Pacific that, even on bad days, are challenging and fun. Boards can be rented from surf shops (rental costs around M$250), but use extreme care at all times, as rips, undertow and behemoth waves are dangerous even for experienced surfers. If you’re looking for good breaks, check out the following:
Costa Azul Needs southerly swell, but this intermediate break is a whole lot of fun and it’s close to either of the Cabos.
Los Cerritos Beautiful sand, good waves, and a mellow vibe – this is a great beginner beach with a powerful Pacific swell…and eagle rays below.
San Miguel Rocky point break that offers awesome rides when the waves are big. Isla de Todos Santos is another option for the serious.
For more info on surfing, check out the no-nonsense Surfer’s Guide to Baja by Mike Parise. For surf lessons, contact Mario Surf School.
Cabo Pulmo
%624 / Pop 58
Cabo Pulmo, a tiny village and a 17,571-acre Marine Protected Area (MPA), is one of the most successful national marine parks in the world and arguably offers the best diving and snorkeling in Baja. It’s also home to the only Pacific coral reef in the Sea of Cortez. You don’t need a 4WD to enjoy the drive out here along the spectacular Eastern Cape (from the south) coastal road or through the Sierra de la Laguna (to the west), although the road can get rough at times. You will escape the crowds and find a very mellow scene that can be hard to leave.
2Activities
People come from all around southern Baja to dive or snorkel at Cabo Pulmo. Highlights include the coral reef and sandy-bottom El Bajo, where a large school of bigeye jacks regularly school into a giant, astonishing ball.
Snorkelers should head for the beach at Los Arbolitos (entry fee M$40 per person) 5km south of Cabo Pulmo, then follow the shoreline hiking trail to Las Sirenitas, where wind and wave erosion has made the rocks look like melting wax sculptures. Eerie and beautiful, they’re accessible by boat as well.
Offshore snorkeling and diving trips can be booked via several companies that operate out of kiosks down by the water. Our favorite is Cabo Pulmo Divers (%624-184-81-42; 2-tank dives US$125; 2½ hour snorkeling tours US$45), run by the Castro family who were key in creating the national park and continue to be the biggest champions in protecting it.
4Sleeping & Eating
Cabo Pulmo CasasBUNGALOW$$
(www.cabopulmocasas.com; casitas US$80-150; W)
Marly Rickers rents out these five well-maintained and comfy little bungalows right in the village. All run on solar power, are equipped with full kitchens and have outdoor gardens with space to hang out. Definitely the best option in Cabo Pulmo.
Eco Adventure BungalowsCABAñAS$$
(%624-158-97-31; www.tourscabopulmo.com; cabañas US$60; p) S
These two solar-powered palapa-style cabañas (cabins) near the water are plain but pleasantly furnished. The owners organize water sports and whale-watching tours from their Eco Adventures kiosk on the waterfront.
Palapa Cabo PulmoSEAFOOD$$
(mains M$105-300; hnoon-9pm)
With its unbeatable position right on the beach, this friendly place with its terrace seating serves superb seafood dishes like coconut shrimp, fried calamari and fresh fish, shrimp or chicken done to your liking with a choice of delicious Mexican sauces. Wash it down with a killer mango margarita.
El CaballeroMEXICAN$$
(mains M$90-190; h7am-9:30pm Fri-Wed)
This place serves huge dishes of traditional Mexican cuisine, including superb fish tacos. Breakfast are great too. There’s a small shop here as well for snacks and supplies.
8Getting There & Away
Many people go to Cabo Pulmo to dive on day trips from all around Baja Sur. Otherwise you’ll need your own vehicle.
San José del Cabo
%624 / Pop 70,000
San José del Cabo is like the ‘mild’ sister of ‘wild’ Cabo San Lucas, offering quiet shopping, an attractive plaza, a beautiful church and excellent dining opportunities in its inland, historic center. It’s Zona Hotelera beach area a couple of kilometers away has miles of white sand lining a mostly riptide laden ocean and is backed by large hotels, condos and eyesores, er, timeshares.
1Sights
The best beaches for swimming are along the road to Cabo San Lucas and include Playa Santa María at Km 13.
Iglesia San JoséCHURCH
(map Google map Plaza Mijares; hsporadic)
The colonial-style Iglesia San José, built in 1730 to replace the Misión San José del Cabo, faces the spacious Plaza Mijares.
WORTH A TRIP
RESERVA DE LA BIOSFERA SIERRA DE LA LAGUNA
Hard-core backpackers can strap on hiking boots, fill water bottles and head into the uninterrupted wilds of this lush and rugged biosphere reserve, south of the intersection of the Transpeninsular and Hwy 19. It’s not a place for inexperienced hikers, or anyone unfamiliar with the unique challenges presented by desert trails, but the rewards are great: stunning vistas, close encounters with wildlife, and a meadow that was once a lake bed (the feature from which the area gets its name).
Baja Sierra Adventures (%624-166-87-06; www.bajasierradventures.com; day trips from US$60), in a tiny ranch called El Chorro, offers a variety of day and overnight trips, biking and trekking through this unique region. Palapas Ventana is another option for tours to this region.
4Sleeping
Reserve ahead during the peak winter months.
Hotel ColliHOTEL$$
(map Google map %624-142-07-25; www.hotelcolli.com; Hidalgo s/n; r M$850; pnaW)
Friendly and family-owned for three generations, the Colli has sunny yellow paintwork in the rooms and is in a great position, only steps away from the plaza and next to the best bakery in town. Great value.
oCasa NataliaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map %624-146-71-00; www.casanatalia.com; Blvd Mijares 4; r US$190-300; naWs)
The fabulous Natalia opens onto San José’s plaza and has rooms overlooking a descending series of luxurious swimming pools with hammocks and lounges all around. Arty and grand paintings on the walls, contemporary furnishings and giant bathrooms make each unique room a delight. The restaurant is superb. Standards share terraces (with woven dividers) but are the most updated.
DriftBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map %624-130-72-03; www.driftsanjose.com; Hidalgo; r US$99-145; naWs)
Polished concrete, white walls with brick detail and exposed copper piping bring an austere luxuriousness to the bright, airy rooms here. Head downstairs to hang out by the pool under tall palms or upstairs to a hammock-strewn rooftop patio, with one of the hotel’s 15 artisenal mezcals to sip. Thursdays a food truck comes to the grounds and the mezcal bar opens to the public for a night of beer, burritos and song. Adults only.
Tropicana InnHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %624-142-15-80; www.tropicanainn.com.mx; Blvd Mijares 30; s/d incl breakfast US$104/113; aWs)
The spacious rooms are attractively decked out with terracotta tiles and pretty floral-tiled bathrooms. The classically Mexican, hacienda-style courtyard has a huge, partially palapa-shaded pool, a jungle of flowers and tropical plants, and a squawking parrot named Paco. Excellent, central location.
5Eating & Drinking
There are some fabulous places to eat here, from cheap taco joints to upscale international cuisine.
oLa LupitaTACOS$$
(map %624-688-39-26; Morelos s/n; tacos M$25-55; h2pm-2am Tue-Sun)
Pair flavorful, unique tacos – including Mediterranean octopus, duck mole or miso fish – with mezcal cocktails, amazing margaritas, live music and an all-around fun scene. Bright colors, rustic wood tables and ethnic patterns make it as hip as it is delicious. Just go.
La OsteríaMEDITERRANEAN$$
(map Google map Obregón 1907; tapas M$90-150, mains from M$150; h11am-9pm)
The old-world, leafy courtyard setting combined with live music make this an atmospheric venue in which to eat, drink and be merry. Share a tapas plate with 14 choices or go for a grilling with steak, chicken or fish. While the food won’t knock your socks off, the drinks and ambience might.
French RivieraBAKERY, CAFE$$
(map Google map www.facebook.com/FrenchRivieraBistro/; cnr Hidalgo & Doblado; pastries around M$40, mains M$150; h7am-11pm)
A French-inspired spot with tasty breads, delicious croissants and pastries, gelati that hits the spot on a hot day, and excellent dinners. The Med-inspired decor is tasteful and contemporary.
oFlora’s Field KitchenINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%624-142-10-00; www.flora-farms.com; mains M$200-520; h11am-2:30pm & 6-9:30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2:30pm Sun)
Head to this farm oasis to splurge on meals finely crafted from ingredients harvested from the surrounding gardens, crusty fresh breads, locally made cheeses and refreshing cocktails, all in a rustic-chic setting right off the pages of a classy lifestyle magazine. You can also buy produce, chichi soaps and explore the relaxing, bucolic grounds. It’s about 5km northeast of the colonial town center.
Baja Brewing CoBREWERY
(map Google map www.bajabrewingcompany.com; Morelos 1227; hnoon-1am)
A pub-style environment offering local microbrews. Sample 4oz measures of eight different beers in a flight to find your favorite. Popular choices include the Raspberry Lager and the put-hairs-on-your-chest Peyote Pale Ale.
Los Barriles de Don MalaquiasBAR
(map Google map %624-142-53-22; cnr Blvd Mijares & Juárez; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Los Barriles stocks over 300 varieties of tequila and keeps at least two dozen bottles open for tasting. Prices are a bit steep, but the selection is great.
7Shopping
Blvd Mijares is the self-proclaimed art district and boasts numerous galleries, studios and stores. The district has an Art Walk on Thursdays from 5pm to 9pm, with open studios, wine tasting and more. For info on art galleries in the area, check out www.artcabo.com.
La SacristiaARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map Hidalgo 9; h10am-8pm)
This multigallery space showcases art and crafts from throughout Mexico. Don’t miss the rainbow-colored beaded animal sculptures made by the mainland Mexican Huichol people.
Old Town GalleryART
(map Google map www.theoldtowngallery.com; Obregón 1505; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Duck into this gallery to view the distinct different styles of seven Canadian artists, most of whom are local residents.
NecriCERAMICS
(map Google map www.necri.com.mx; Obregón 17; h10:30am-8pm)
One of the longest-established ceramic stores in town, Necri also sells pewter pieces, original Talavera jewelry and mainland crafts.
8Information
Several casas de cambio (exchange houses) here keep long hours.
IMSS Hospital (%emergency 624-142-01-80, nonemergency 624-142-00-76; www.imss.gob.mx; cnr Hidalgo & Coronado) is where to go should you need to.
Secretaria Municipal de Turismo (%624-142-29-60, ext 150; Plaza San José, Transpeninsular; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Stocks brochures and maps.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto Internacional de Los Cabos (SJD; %624-146-51-11; www.aeropuertosgap.com.mx; Carretera Transpeninsular Km 43.5), north of San José del Cabo, also serves Cabo San Lucas. All airline offices are found here.
Calafia Airlines (%624-143-43-02; www.calafiaairlines.com) flies direct to some mainland Mexico destinations like Los Mochis, Guadalajara and Mazatlán, while Aeroméxico (%624-146-50-98; www.aeromexico.com) has domestic and international connections via Mexico City, and daily flights to Los Angeles. Alaska Airlines (%624-146-55-02; www.alaskaair.com) has the most flights to the US.
BUS
Buses depart from the main bus terminal (%624-130-73-39; González Conseco s/n), east of the Transpeninsular.
BUSES FROM SAN JOSé DEL CABO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabo San Lucas | 65 | 1 | frequent |
| Ensenada | 2348 | 24 | 1 |
| La Paz | 340-370 | 3½ | frequent |
| Los Barriles | 98 | 1½ | 6 |
| Tijuana | 2281 | 27 | 2 |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The usual agencies rent from the airport. Rates start at about M$600 per day.
8Getting Around
The official government-run company runs bright-yellow taxis and minibuses to the airport for about M$280. The toll road from the Transpeninsular to the airport costs M$32.
Cabo San Lucas
%624 / Pop 88,539
Cabo San Lucas’s white beaches, fecund waters and spectacular arching stone cliffs at Land’s End have become the backdrop for Baja’s most raucous tourism. Where else do clubs round up conga lines so that waiters can pour tequila down dancers’ throats? The next morning you can be boating next to dolphins and spouting whales for a hangover cure. The activities are endless: jet-skiing, banana-boating, parasailing, snorkeling, kitesurfing, diving and horseback-riding can all be found just by walking down to the beach. Outside city limits, you’ll be surrounded by majestic cardón cacti, caracara birds and mystical arroyos (streams) that will impress you just as much as that crazy club you partied at the night before.
Unfortunately the desert is disappearing fast. The ‘Corridor,’ the once-spectacular coastline between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, is being built up with cookie-cutter resorts, American chain stores, aquifer-depleting golf courses and all-inclusive hotels.
1Sights
oLand’s EndLANDMARK
Land’s End is the most impressive attraction in Cabo. Hop on a panga (skiff), kayak or stand-up paddleboard SUP) and head to El Arco (the Arch), a jagged natural feature that partially fills with the tide. Pelicans, sea lions, sea, sky – this is what brought people to Cabo in the first place, and it’s still magical, despite the backdrop of cruise ships.
Beaches
For sunbathing and calm waters Playa Médano, on the Bahía de Cabo San Lucas, is ideal. Playa Solmar, on the Pacific, is pretty but has a reputation for dangerous breakers and riptides. Nearly unspoiled Playa del Amor (Lover’s Beach) shouldn’t be missed; near Land’s End, it is accessible by water taxi from Playa Médano or Plaza Las Glorias docks or you can paddle out on a SUP or kayak. Appropriately, Playa del Divorcio (Divorce Beach) is nearby, across the point on the Pacific side. Playa Santa María, at Km 13 toward San José del Cabo, is one of the best for swimming.
2Activities
The best diving areas are Roca Pelícano, the sea-lion colony off Land’s End, and the reef off Playa Chileno, at Bahía Chileno east of town. Tio Sports (map Google map %624-143-33-99; www.tiosports.com; Playa Médano; 2-tank dives from US$120) at Playa Médano is one of the largest water-sports outfitters, but there are numerous alternatives.
Surprisingly good snorkeling can be done right from Playa del Amor, swimming left, toward the marina. A mask, a snorkel and fins should run about M$200 per day. Panga rides cost about M$200 for a round-trip if you bargain directly with a captain. Tipping is expected.
TTours
oCabo ExpeditionsOUTDOORS
(map Google map %624-143-27-00; www.caboexpeditions.com.mx; Bvd Marina s/n, Plaza de la Danza Local 6; whale-watching tours US$89; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
This well-run, eco-minded company specializes in small-group tours and is constantly seeking out new twists like trips on camel back or boat trips to ‘whale concerts’ where whale song is piped up through tubes. Of course there is also whale-watching, kayaking, diving and trips as far as Espiritu Santo Island. All are led by experienced guides alongside fantastic commentary.
EcocatBOATING
(map Google map %624-157-46-85; www.caboecotours.com; dock N-12; tours per person from US$60; c)
Offers two-hour sunset sailing tours, snorkeling and whale-watching trips, and also plays host to a variety of other options off its giant catamaran.
zFestivals & Events
Fishing TournamentsFISHING
(hMay-Nov)
Cabo San Lucas is a popular staging ground for fishing tournaments in the autumn. The main events are the Gold Cup, Bisbee’s Black & Blue Marlin Jackpot and the Cabo Tuna Jackpot.
Sammy Hagar’s Birthday PartyDANCE
(Cabo Wabo; hearly Oct)
This is a major Cabo event with lots of drinking and dancing. Invitations (free) are required – try concierges at the larger hotels or look out for giveaways.
Día de San LucasRELIGIOUS
(h18 Oct)
A local celebration honoring the town’s patron saint, with fireworks, food stalls and a fiesta spirit.
4Sleeping
Cabo Inn HotelINN$
(map Google map %624-143-0819; www.caboinnhotel.com; 20 de Noviembre; s/d/r from US$40/54/62; Ws)
This place is in town, but the palapa roof, colorful decor and plant-filled courtyard make you feel like you’re in nature. It’s close to tonnes of restaurants and shops, but about 15 minutes’ walk to the beach. Add a communal kitchen, rooftop hangout area and pool and you have one of the best deals in Cabo San Lucas.
Hotel Los MilagrosHOTEL$$
(map Google map %624-143-45-66, USA 718-928-6647; www.losmilagros.com.mx; Matamoros 116; d US$85-85; paWs)
The tranquil courtyard and 12 unique rooms provide a perfect escape from Cabo’s excesses. A desert garden (complete with resident iguanas), beautiful deep-blue pool, and friendly, courteous service make a stay here unforgettable.
oBungalows Breakfast InnB&B$$$
(map Google map %624-143-05-85; www.thebungalowshotel.com; cnr Libertad & Herrera; bungalows incl breakfast from US$165; pnaWs)
Extremely attentive service, delicious breakfasts, tastefully furnished rooms, fragrant palm-thatched palapas, hammocks and an expansive swimming pool set this B&B apart. Fresh-fruit smoothies, fruit juices, excellent coffee and warm, welcoming bilingual staff make the bungalows feel like home. Beautiful handmade soaps are one of the many tiny details that makes this the place to splurge.
Bahia Hotel & Beach ClubHOTEL$$$
(map Google map www.bahiacabo.com; Av El Pescador; r US$150-350; paWs)
This whitewashed grande dame is a classy choice only a few minutes’ walk from the heart of Médano beach. High-ceilinged rooms with tile floors, comfy beds and all the mod-cons surround a lounge-inducing pool. The on-site Bar Esquina means you won’t have to go far for the classiest nightlife around.
5Eating
Cabo’s culinary scene ranges from humble taco stands to gourmet restaurants.
Tacos GardeniasTACOS$
(map Google map www.tacosgardenias.com; Paseo de la Marina 3; tacos from M$35; h8am-10pm)
Arrive off-hours if you want a table at this cafeteria-like, cavernous joint. This is the place for outrageously fresh fish or shrimp (breaded or grilled) tacos, although there are meat and vegetarian options too. Tacos arrive with homemade tortillas and all the fixings so you can build your own masterpiece. The seafood cocktails, salads and more are great too.
Taqueria Las GuacamayasTACOS$
(map Google map Morelos; meals M$70-110; h5:30pm-midnight)
The perfect mix of outrageously delicious tacos to devour at chunky wood Mexican tables in a just-fancy-enough-to-feel-special atmosphere with stellar service. Pair with fresh juices, a beer or a margarita. All three branches of Las Guacamayas are great for families and couples alike, but our favorite is this quieter, backstreet location. For a treat order the molcajete mixto!
Mariscos Las Tres IslasSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map cnr Revolución & Mendoza; mains M$50-195; h8am-10pm)
A lively thatched restaurant in the middle of town, swarming with locals who come for the best, classic Mexican seafood in the area. Prices are reasonable, the beers are cold and the marisco band has talent. Try the shrimp scampi or the garlic octopus.
oSur Beach HouseINTERNATIONAL$$$
(map Google map %624-143-18-90; www.bahiacabo.com; Playa Médano; mains M$170-395; h7:30am-midnight)
With an exceptional location on the beach looking toward El Arco, this elegant yet laid-back place serves up ceviche and tacos using the freshest ingredients and beautifully balanced, flavors. The fancier grilled fish and meat meals are just as spectacular and service is the best in town. Get lunch and drinks right on the beach or dine by candle-light for dinner.
During high season sit around the small nighttime bonfire and watch the boat lights sparkle off sea.
Mi CasaMEXICAN$$$
(map Google map www.micasarestaurant.com.mx; cnr Cárdenas & Cabo San Lucas; mains US$13-27; h10am-11pm)
This place has real wow factor. The courtyard-style interior has rooms on several levels and feels like something out of a 1950s Mexican musical – plants, statues, folksy murals, wicker lights, painted furniture, Día de Muertos figurines and wandering mariachis all set the stage. Stick with the more simple dishes. The food is good, but come here more for the atmosphere.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cabo is a proud party town, and alcoholic revelry is encouraged all day long. You have been warned.
CanelaBAR
(map Google map Plaza del Sol; h8am-11pm)
A classier option than most for a Corona or cocktail. Moody lighting, rustic furniture and a curious (and entertaining) Día de Muertos theme.
Slim’s Elbow RoomBAR
(map Google map Blvd Marina s/n; h10am-midnight)
In the shadow of Cabo Wabo, this teeny, easy-to-miss watering hole, wallpapered in dollar bills and clients’ signatures, claims to be the world’s smallest bar. With four seats inside and two standing spaces, it’s a contender for sure.
Cabo WaboCLUB
(map Google map %624-143-11-88; www.cabowabo.com; cnr Guerrero & Madero; h9am-2am; W)
The most famous bar and club in town, established by legendary rocker Sammy Hagar of solo career and Van Halen fame. Come here for live music and the legendary margaritas made with Hagar’s own-label tequila.
El Squid RoeCLUB
(map Google map %624-143-12-69; cnr Blvd Cárdenas & Zaragoza; h10am-5am)
Crazy. Just crazy. Jello shooters, tequila congo lines. Waiters (and drunk clientele) dance on tabletops to cheering crowds. The everyday epicenter of Cabo’s drunken nightlife scene.
7Shopping
Dos LunasFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(map Google map %624-143-19-69; Blvd Marina, Plaza Bonita; h9am-6pm)
This bright, colorful shop will get you in the holiday mood. Stocking reasonably priced resort wear made of natural fibers, as well as great handbags, hats, jewelry and kiddies’ clothing, it’s well worth a pre-beach visit.It also has a branch in Puerto Paraíso.
Mercado MexicanoMARKET
(map Google map cnr Hidalgo & Zapata)
This sprawling market, which contains dozens of stalls with crafts from around the country, is Cabo’s most comprehensive shopping area, but there’s a lot of junk too. Touts beckon you in.
8Information
It’s an indication of who calls the shots here that Cabo has no government-sanctioned tourist offices. The ‘info’ booths you’ll see are owned by timeshares, condos and hotels. The staff are friendly and can offer maps and info, but their only pay comes from commissions from selling timeshare visits: expect a firm, sometimes desperate, pitch for you to visit model homes. Be warned – the promised freebies are rarely worth wasting precious vacation time on.
Call 078 for tourist assistance.
There’s an immigration office (%624-143-01-35; cnr Blvd Cárdenas & Farías; h9am-1pm Mon-Sat) near the center.
All About Cabo (www.allaboutcabo.com) is a useful site for visitors.
Amerimed American Hospital (%624-143-96-70; www.amerimed.com.mx; Blvd Cárdenas) Near Paseo de la Marina.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The closest airport is at San José del Cabo. The Cabo Airport Shuttle (%USA 1-877-737-9680; www.caboairportshuttle.net; per person around US$19) is one of the cheapest and best services to/from the airport and will take you directly to your hotel.
BUS
Buses depart from either the Águila (www.autotransportesaguila.net; Hwy 19; h24hr) company, located at the Todos Santos crossroad, north of downtown, or the bus station, a 40-minute walk northwest from the tourist zone and waterfront.
BUSES FROM CABO SAN LUCAS
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| La Paz | 370 | 3 | frequent |
| Loreto | 995 | 8¾ | 3 |
| San José del Cabo | 65 | 1 | frequent |
| Tijuana | 2630 | 27 | 2 |
| Todos Santos | 151 | 1 | frequent |
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Numerous car-rental agencies have booths along Paseo de la Marina and elsewhere in town, although booking in advance with a pickup at the airport can be cheaper.
Todos Santos
%612 / Pop 5200
With a quirky mix of locals, fishers, surfers and New Age spiritualists, the town of ‘All Saints’ has thus far escaped the rampant tourism of the other cape towns. With it’s charming cobblestone streets lined with art galleries, romantic restaurants and a cactus or three, it’s also, by far, the prettiest town in the far south of Baja. Long beaches and wild surf breaks mean there’s a lot to do for those who want to get out of town as well. Think Taos, New Mexico, before Ansel Adams and Georgia O’Keefe brought the world there. Be prepared for high prices, however.
Like many other parts of Baja, Todos Santos is changing and local development is rampant. So come here now before it changes forever.
1Sights
Scattered around town are several former trapiches (mills), many of which have been repurposed over the years. The restored Teatro Cine General Manuel Márquez de León is one – it’s on Legaspi, facing the plaza. Molino El Progreso, the ruin of what was formerly El Molino restaurant, is another. On Juárez, opposite the hospital, is Molino de los Santana.
Centro CulturalMUSEUM
(%612-145-00-41; Juárez; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; c) F
Housed in a former schoolhouse with a lovely central courtyard, the Centro Cultural is home to some interesting nationalist and revolutionary murals dating from 1933. Also on display is a dusty collection of regional artifacts, fascinating old photos and a replica ranch house. Take note of the cradle ‘cage’ hanging from the ceiling.
2Activities
Surfers come here for some of the nicest swells in all of Baja. San Pedrito offers Hawaii-like tubes (and Hawaii-like sea urchins if you wipe out). Catch that perfect wave as eagle rays glide below you, or just hang out with the mellow crowd on Los Cerritos and watch the coral sun plunge into the Pacific. Boards can be rented for M$250 to M$350 per day at Pescadero Surf Camp, or from vendors on the beaches.
Mario Surf SchoolSURFING
(%612-142-61-56; www.mariosurfschool.com; Hwy 19 Km 64; 1hr surf lesson from US$60; c)
Offers excellent lessons for all levels in the Todos Santos and Pescadero area.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
PUNTA LOBOS
This point in Todos Santos, named for its sea-lion colony, is where the fishers launch pangas (skiffs). It’s just a sandy beach and a bit out of the way, but anytime from 1pm to about 3pm you can come and bargain for just-off-the-boat fish to cook at home. Pelicans joust for scraps, and a hiking trail winds up the point to an unparalleled lookout spot.
4Sleeping
Most places fall in the midrange to high-end category and many of these can be rated as some of the most lovely places to stay in Baja.
Pescadero Surf CampCABAñAS$
(%612-130-30-32; www.pescaderosurf.com; Hwy 19 Km 64; casita M$800-900, penthouse M$1200, campsites per person M$200; pis)
Located on a side of the highway 13km south of Todos Santos near the Pescadero surf break, this clean and surprisingly stylish place caters to wave riders with rentals, lessons and advice. Some of the thatched casitas have enough open space between the walls and ceiling that they almost feel outdoors. There’s a pool and community kitchen, but all accommodations share bathrooms.
oPosada La PozaSUITES$$$
(%612-145-04-00; www.lapoza.com; Camino a la Poza 282; ste incl breakfast US$150-325; pnaWs)
Boasting ‘Mexican hospitality combined with Swiss quality,’ (meaning, we found, colorful surrounds and meticulous, incongruously formal service), this very private retreat is in a drop-dead gorgeous palm oasis right on the Pacific. A saltwater swimming pool, freshwater lagoon, lush garden and superb restaurant with excellent Mexican wines set it apart. Suites are large and bright but the furnishings could use updating. No kids under 13 allowed.
Hotel San CristóbalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%800-990-02-72; www.sancristobalbaja.com; Carretera Federal 19 Km 54; r from US$350; paWs)
Style is paramount at this sleek boho resort of white walls, wood-bead chandeliers, bright throw pillows and decorative cacti. With a killer location on a long expanse of pristine beach, with crashing surf and fishing boats pulled ashore, it’s too dangerous to swim in the sea but the pool is an inviting hangout with cocktails and basket-like lounge chairs. It’s about 4km south of Todos Santos.
Todos Santos InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%612-145-00-40; www.todossantosinn.com; Legaspi 33; d US$125-325; naWs)
Fashioned from an exquisitely restored 19th-century brick hacienda, Todos Santos Inn has only eight intimate rooms, each with a four-poster bed and a luxurious, bygone-era atmosphere. Murals, palm-beam ceilings and painted ceramic sinks are just some of the touches. A tiny swimming pool sits within a verdant tropical courtyard and the on-site bar and restaurant are truly romantic.
GuaycuraBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%612-175-08-00; www.guaycura.com; cnr Legaspi & Topete; r from US$218; aW)
All soothing colors, restful lighting and tasteful traditional furniture and artwork, the Guaycura also offers guests the free use of its beach club with its celebrated restaurant, plus a skydeck bar and small book-lined library, complete with sink-into sofas for kickback reading time, old-fashioned style.
Hotel CaliforniaHOTEL$$$
(%612-145-05-25; www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com; Juárez s/n; r US$125-175; aWs)
You can check out but you may never want to leave the arty-yet-homey, lively-yet-serene Hotel California. The public spaces, in particular, are lovely, especially around the pool, which is surrounded by lush foliage, blood-red hibiscus and lofty palms. There’s plenty of space plus bright and tasteful artwork throughout the rooms and they’re furnished with classy, traditional Mexican pieces. It’s open year-round.
5Eating & Drinking
oLoncheria La GaritaMEXICAN$
(%612-176-5792; Hwy 19; dishes from M$40; h6am-6pm)
A great stop 19Km on the way to La Paz or a trip on it’s own, this family-run, always-busy, ranch-style-meal-slinging restaurant is as authentic as you’ll find in this area. Try the asada rancheros (roast beef with beans, eggs and salsa), empanadas and local-style talega brewed coffee. It’s great for kids since there are some farm animals out back amid the dust and towering cacti.
oHeirbabuenaMEXICAN$$
(%612-149-25-68; www.hierbabuenarestaurante.com; Hwy 29 Km 62, Pescadero; meals M$170-250; h1-9pm Wed-Mon, closed Sep)
Walk past growing fruit and vegetables to this farm-to-table restaurant and be greeted by a vivacious crew who will serve you one of the best meals in the area. The menu changes depending on what’s fresh in the organic garden, sea and surrounds; the chef cooks it all up simply, to perfection. It’s around 11km south of Todos Santos.
Chicken is roasted to crispy deliciousness, salads are dressed just enough and the wood-fired pizzas are flavorful and divine.
Ristorante Tre GallineITALIAN$$
(%612-145-02-74; cnr Topete & Juárez; dinner mains from M$140; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr)
This stone and timber, plant-laden Italian restaurant has tables arranged on descending terraces, which gives everyone a little more privacy (candlelight adds to the atmosphere). The seafood platters are particularly scrumptious and the pasta is made fresh daily.
JazamangoNEW MEXICAN$$$
(%612-688-15-01; www.facebook.com/jazamango; Naranjos s/n; dishes M$95-350; h1-9pm Tue-Sun)
Star Mexican chef Javier Placensia brings his signature Baja Med cuisine to Baja Sur via this warm, open-concept place just out of town and up a tiny hill for terrestrial views. Nearly every ingredient is sustainably and locally produced, meaning plenty of seafood, meat and vegetable dishes on a menu that changes with what’s available.
Los Adobes de Todos SantosMODERN MEXICAN$$$
(www.losadobesdetodossantos.com; Av Hidalgo; mains M$200-365; h11am-9pm; pW)
Check out the stunning desert garden at the back of this popular restaurant with its alta cocina menu of creatively prepared traditional dishes like caldo pepita: a homespun chicken broth with dumplings and cilantro spiked with guajillo chili peppers and sprinkled with pumpkin seeds. Excellent, sweet service.
El Gusto!FUSION, MEXICAN$$$
(%612-145-04-00; www.lapoza.com; Posada La Poza, Camino a la Poza 282; mains M$180-450; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Fri-Wed; p)
Reservations are recommended in high season at this beautiful restaurant, which was recently voted a top place to watch a Pacific sunset – sip a margarita on the terrace or in the beautifully decorated dining area. In season, whales head by as you eat. The extensive wine list is made up of Mexico’s finest vintages.
Café Santa FeITALIAN$$$
(%612-145-03-40; Centenario 4; dinner mains M$310-550; hnoon-9pm Wed-Mon Nov-Aug)
The insalata Mediterranea (steamed seafood drizzled in lemon juice and oil) will make even seafood haters change their ways. The open-air kitchen, designed by the owner himself, allows you to see the food as it’s being prepped. Anything on the menu will delight, surprise and tantalize.
If you need suggestions, however, go for the mussels in wine or any one of the various handmade raviolis: lobster, meat, or spinach and ricotta.
CafelixCAFE
(Juárez; frappé M$65; h8am-9pm Wed-Mon; W)
This arty cafe is always packed with the local expats here for great coffee and gut-busting breakfasts. On hot days, go for one of its dozen-plus frappés or a creamy mango smoothie.
7Shopping
There are numerous galleries to wander through, especially around the plaza.
Faces of MexicoARTS & CRAFTS
(Morelos; h11am-6pm Wed-Mon)
Duck into the warren of dark rooms here to discover an extraordinary collection of masks, sculpture, ethnic art, antique baubles and plenty of somber Día de Muertos beaded and painted decorative skulls. This is not your usual souvenir shop – check it out.
Agua y Sol JoyeriaJEWELRY
(cnr Centenario & Analia Gutiérrez; h10am-5pm)
The silver jewelry here is made by local artisans and well priced with some stunning, unusual designs.
8Information
El Tecolote (%612-145-02-95; cnr Juárez & Av Hidalgo) The town lacks an official tourist office, but this English-language bookstore has magazines with town maps and a sketch map of nearby beach areas. Jan, the owner, is super-helpful.
8Getting There & Away
Hourly between 6:30am and 10:30pm, buses head to La Paz (M$122, one hour) and to Cabo San Lucas (M$135, one hour) from the bus stop (%612-148-02-89; Heróico Colegio Militar; h7am-10pm) between Zaragoza and Morelos.