Chihuahua & Central North Mexico
Off the tourist radar, and with an affable frontier feel, this region offers some of Mexico’s most important historic sights across a triptych of colonial cities (Chihuahua, Parral and Durango). The landscape itself is typified by the starkly beautiful Desierto Chihuahuense (Chihuahuan Desert), which covers most of Chihuahua, Mexico’s largest state – and while it rises in the west into the fertile folds of the Sierra Madre Occidental, you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve wandered into a B-grade western (Durango, incidentally, is where many famous westerns were filmed).
Tourism, unfortunately, has been ravaged by drug-gang violence, so don’t venture off the beaten track without a guide. The ‘Golden Triangle’ – where Chihuahua, Durango and Sinaloa converge – is noted for its opium production and particularly high levels of violence. While there is some danger of being caught in the wrong place at the wrong time, tourists are not generally targeted.
Chihuahua
%614 / Pop 867,700 / Elev 1440m
Chihuahua, capital of Mexico’s biggest state, is a quirky but pleasant combination of norteño character, revolutionary history and bohemian hangouts. Many travelers use it only as an overnight stop before or after riding the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico, but Chihuahua is worth more of your time. The city center combines grand colonial buildings, several beautiful plazas, pedestrianized lanes and a healthy crop of restaurants, cafes and bars. Its museums bear witness to the key episodes of Mexican history that unfolded here. In short, it’s an intriguing city with a strong sense of identity.
History
Founded in 1709, Chihuahua soon became the key city of the Nueva España’s Provincias Internas (stretching from California to Texas and Sinaloa to Coahuila). The Spanish brought pro-independence rebels, including Miguel Hidalgo, to be condemned and shot here in 1811. The Porfirio Díaz regime brought railways and helped consolidate the wealth of the area’s huge cattle fiefdoms. Luis Terrazas, one-time Chihuahua state governor, held lands nearly the size of Belgium: ‘I am not from Chihuahua, Chihuahua is mine,’ he once said.
After Pancho Villa’s forces took Chihuahua in 1913 during the Mexican Revolution, Villa established his headquarters here, arranged various civic projects and soon acquired the status of local hero. Today the city has one of Mexico’s highest living standards, with maquiladora (parts factory) jobs contributing significantly to this.
Chihuahua
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oCasa ChihuahuaMUSEUM
(map Google map %614-429-33-00; www.casachihuahua.org.mx; Libertad 901; M$75; 
h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; 
c)
Chihuahua’s former Palacio Federal (built 1908–10) has been used as a mint, a monastery, a military hospital and a post office, but is now a beautifully restored cultural center full of excellent exhibits, with most explanations in English and Spanish. Modern displays concentrate on the culture and history of Chihuahua state with features on Mormons, Mennonites and the Tarahumara people. The most famous gallery is the Calabozo de Hidalgo, the subterranean dungeon where Miguel Hidalgo was held prior to his execution.
The historic dungeon and the church towering above it were preserved within the later buildings erected on the site. A short audiovisual heightens the mournful atmosphere of the dungeon, which contains Hidalgo’s bible and crucifix. A plaque outside recalls the verses the revolutionary priest wrote in charcoal on his cell wall in his final hours thanking his captors for their kindness.
Casa Chihuahua also hosts live music performances every Thursday afternoon – from classical to experimental. Entrance is free.
Museo Casa RedondaMUSEUM
(Museo Chihuahuense de Arte Contemporáneo; %614-414-90-61; www.facebook.com/museocasaredonda; Colón s/n; adult/child M$22/10; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Once a locomotive maintenance and repair shop, this renovated warehouse is home to the city’s small but excellent modern art museum, with one room dedicated to the fascinating history of the building, including railroad gear and antiquities. The building itself was built curved to accommodate a huge turntable that allowed one mechanic to turn an entire railcar.
Museo Casa de VillaMUSEUM
(Museo Historico de la Revolucion; %614-416-29-58; mus_histrevol@mail.sedena.gob.mx; Calle 10 No 3010; adult/student M$10/5; h9am-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; c)
Housed in Quinta Luz, Pancho Villa’s 48-room former mansion, this museum is a must-see for anyone who appreciates a made-for-Hollywood story of crime, stakeouts and riches. The interior is loaded with Villa’s personal effects and photographs, and in the back courtyard you’ll find the bullet-riddled black Dodge that Villa was driving when he was murdered. Information is in Spanish and English.
After his assassination in 1923, 25 of Villa’s ‘wives’ filed claims for his estate. Government investigations determined that Luz Corral de Villa was the generalísimo’s legal spouse; the mansion was awarded to her and became known as Quinta Luz. She opened the museum and the army acquired it after her death in 1981.
The rear of the museum concentrates on Mexican revolutionary history with detailed signage, newspaper articles, weapons and other artifacts.
Plaza de ArmasPLAZA
(map Google map Independencia 209; c)
Chihuahua’s historic heart, with its mass of pigeons, shoe-shiners and cowboy-hatted characters, is a simple but pretty place. A bronze sculpture of the city’s founder, Don Antonio de Deza y Ulloa, presides over the daily hubbub. The plaza also is home to the majestic baroque cathedral (map Google map %614-416-84-10; Libertad 814; h7am-8pm; c), built between 1725 and 1826 and still containing the original organ installed in 1796.
Poliforum de UACHGALLERY
(map Google map %ext 2026 614-439-15-00; www.uach.mx; Escorza 900; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) 
F
Located just east of Templo San Francisco (map Google map Libertad s/n; h8am-1pm & 3-7pm), this University of Chihuahua gallery has two permanent exhibits that showcase the work of two prominent Chihuahuense artists: Águeda Lozano and Sebastián. Temporary exhibits of up-and-coming Mexican artists are also displayed. Free guided tours are available until 3pm.
Grutas de Nombre de DiosCAVE
(%614-432-05-18; Vialidad Sacramento s/n; adult/child M$50/25; h9am-3pm Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; c)
These caves on Chihuahua’s northeast edge boast impressive stalagmites, stalactites and rock formations, making the one-hour, 17-chamber underground journey fun, especially for kids. Visitors enter with guides and typically in groups of 15 to 20 people. To get here take either a taxi (M$90) or a ‘Nombre de Dios Ojo’ bus (M$7) from outside Posada Tierra Blanca on Niños Héroes. Ask the driver where to get off.
Palacio de GobiernoHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map %614-429-35-96; Aldama 901; h8am-8pm) F
The courtyard of this handsome, 19th-century, state-government building features striking 1960s murals by Aarón Piña Mora showing Chihuahua’s highly eventful history. You can get a free e-guide to the murals through the tourist office, which is located here. Hidalgo and the Mexican independence are the subjects of a small museum: Museo de Hidalgo (map Google map %614-429-36-95; Aldama 901; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) F.
Casa SebastiánGALLERY
(map Google map %614-200-48-00; Av Juárez 601; h8am-7pm) F
The main draws of this restored 1880s gallery are the small-scale models of the massive metal sculptures by renowned Chihuahuan artist Sebastián, whose work is recognized in cities worldwide. There are five real Sebastianes around Chihuahua, including one just above Parque El Palomar.
Quinta GamerosHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map %614-238-20-05; www.uach.mx; Paseo Bolívar 401; adult/child M$30/10; h11am-7pm)
Built in an incredibly elaborate belle epoque architectural style by a wealthy mine owner, this museum is filled with a mix of period furnishings and art. Every room is unique, with quality stained glass and ornate carved wood and moldings. Upstairs, several rooms have temporary art exhibits. Definitely worth a look around, as it is one of Chihuahua’s most unforgettable buildings.
Museo Casa de JuárezMUSEUM
(map Google map Museo de la Lealtad Republicana; %614-410-42-58; Av Juárez 321; adult/child M$11/5; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; c)
President Benito Juárez’ residence in this house during the French occupation made Chihuahua the capital of the Mexican republic from 1864 to 1866. Now a museum with the 1860s feel still intact, it includes documents signed by the great reformer, as well as period exhibits, including weapons, uniforms and replicas of Juárez’ furniture.
TTours
Chihuahua BárbaroTOURS
(map Google map %614-425-00-06; www.chihuahuabarbaro.com; c)
This trolleybus offers tours of Chihuahua’s main historic sights (narrated in Spanish) and beyond. Its three-hour city tour (M$100) departs from the Plaza de Armas (where there’s a ticket booth) four times daily, and includes the Pancho Villa museum and Quinta Gameros. Entrance fees not included.
4Sleeping
Hotel Jardín del CentroHOTEL$
(map Google map %614-415-18-32; www.hoteljardindelcentro.com; Victoria 818; s/d M$480/590; 
p
n
a
W)
Offering fine value, this pleasant, inviting little hotel has cozy, attractive rooms around a pretty plant-filled courtyard, plus a good little restaurant. Twins in the back are not as atmospheric as the doubles with high ceilings at the front. Staff are sweet and its location is conveniently close to the center.
Motel María DoloresMOTEL$
(map Google map %614-416-74-20; motelmadol@hotmail.com; Calle 9A No 304; s/d M$380/450; pa
iW)
Just down from Plaza Mayor, this impeccably run motel’s basic rooms aren’t much to look at, but they are clean and a very good deal given the excellent location. It’s particularly handy for drivers, with its secure parking lot.
oHotel San Felipe El RealBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map %614-437-20-37; www.hotelsanfelipeelreal.com; Allende 1005; r/ste incl breakfast M$1130/1428; pnaiW)
Unassuming it may be from the outside, but inside this gorgeous 1880s house you’ll find a courtyard with a burbling fountain and six individually furnished rooms, all replete with antiques and period furniture. The owners spoil guests, and serve breakfast on one long table in the homey kitchen. Airport and train station pickups are offered.
Hotel Posada Tierra BlancaHOTEL$$
(map %614-415-00-00; www.posadatierrablanca.com.mx; Niños Héroes 102; s/d M$799/849; pnaW
s)
An old-school motel that recently got a face-lift, most rooms here are spacious and clean with hardwood floors and sleek furnishings (a few had yet to be updated). There’s a well-tended pool plus a dated diner serving up Mexican classics. Best of all is the cavernous lounge, with a psychedelic three-story mural.
Hotel PlazaHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %614-415-12-12, 800-752-92-01; www.hotelplazachihuahua.com; Cuarta 204; r incl breakfast M$1684; pnaW)
Clean, modern and spacious rooms with wood floors, modish furniture and quality bed linen await you here, just a stone’s throw from the cathedral. The roof terrace, where the buffet breakfast is served, boasts fine city views. Service is friendly and attentive.
5Eating & Drinking
Chihuahuenses love a good steak. You’ll find most places oblige with a variety of cuts.
Café CortezCAFE$
(map Google map %614-415-38-07; www.facebook.com/CafeCortez Cuu; Gómez Farías 8; mains M$45-90; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 4-11pm Sun; W)
Chihuahua hardly does hipster, but this hangar-like place painted black outside and a riot of colors inside is probably the most likely environment to find the nearest local equivalent. The real reason to come here though is the excellent coffee, as well as the tasty and enormous paninis, salads and sandwiches, which make it a great lunch stop.
La Casa de los MilagrosMEXICAN$
(map Google map %614-261-55-04; www.facebook.com/pg/CasaDe LosMilagrosCuu; Victoria 812; mains M$75-110; h7:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; W)
Legend has it that Pancho Villa and his pals hung out in this atmospheric 110-year-old mansion featuring tiled floors, lots of snug little rooms and an airy covered courtyard. The menu is enormous and features typical Mexican dishes, all humorously renamed. There’s live music Thursday through Saturday evenings starting at 8pm.
oPlaza del MariachiFOOD HALL$$
(map www.plazadelmariachi.com.mx; Aldama 256; mains M$100-280; h8am-1:30am; Wc)
An upscale food court set in a colonial-style building with exposed brick, a central courtyard and a gentle mist to keep patrons cool. There are eight restaurants – with more to come – featuring mostly Mexican menus with a couple focused on steak and seafood. Mariachis stroll through the complex on Friday and Saturday nights as well as Sunday afternoons. In the evenings, many restaurants double as bars. Come here for a taste of the local nightlife too.
Taller del ChefBISTRO$$
(map %614-410-20-84; www.facebook.com/pg/tallerdelchefcuu; Independencia 1414; mains M$90-140; h1-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-10pm Sun)
A stylish Asian-fusion bistro restaurant, this downtown eatery serves up delicious ramen bowls overflowing with noodles, veggies and proteins. A good selection of local craft beers is also offered. If soup isn’t your thing, there is a variety of (dry) noodle dishes plus salads too.
Mesón de CatedralINTERNATIONAL$$
(map Google map %614-410-15-50; www.facebook.com/MesonDe Catedral; Plaza de Armas; mains M$120-220; h8am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, to 10pm Sun; W)
Go to the 2nd floor of this modern building to find the best vista in Chihuahua. With a terrace overlooking the city’s cathedral, this upmarket place is worth spending a little extra on: try the fish fillet stuffed with peppers or the beefsteak with giant shrimp in a red wine dressing. There’s live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
La CasonaSTEAK$$$
(map Google map %614-410-00-43; www.casona.com.mx; cnr Aldama & Av Ocampo; mains M$190-450; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun; W)
An elaborate 19th-century mansion where polished waiters serve up steaks, seafood and pasta alongside an ample wine list. The menu itself changes every two to three months. There’s a bar and a smoking room too. Booking is recommended.
MomposinaBAR
(map Google map %614-410-09-75; Coronado 508; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat; W)
A brilliant bohemian bar where creative types gather during the day to lounge on mismatched seats, snack on paninis and sip espressos. Later on it morphs into a bar, and on Thursday to Saturday evenings there’s live music. Beers are inexpensive and the vibe is chilled.
La CerveBEER GARDEN
(%614-413-08-60; www.facebook.com/pg/cervechihuahua; Av Pacheco Villa 3331; hnoon-11pm Wed-Sat, to 10pm Tue & Sun)
A massive parking lot surrounded by beer stands and picnic tables make this a popular place for drinks. The beer isn’t fancy – Tecate, Miller, Amstel Lite – but it’s more about the laid-back crowd and vibe. Live music on weekends too. When you get hungry, the on-site taco stands hit the spot.
7Shopping
Chihuahua is a big city with little to recommend it for shoppers. However, the strong cowboy culture here means there are plenty of cowboy-related items to be found for those on the prowl. Cowboy-boot shoppers should make a beeline to Libertad between Independencia and Avenida Ocampo, where lots of boot shops line the street.
Casa de las Artesanías del Estado de ChihuahuaARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map %614-437-12-92; Niños Héroes 1101; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat)
Has a good selection of chihuahuense crafts (including Mata Ortiz pottery) and Mexican foodstuffs such as pecans, oregano oil and sotol, a local spirit made from desert spoon plants.
8Information
Clínica del Centro (%614-439-81-00; www.clinicadelcentro.com.mx; Ojinaga 816) Has a 24-hour emergency department.
Post Office (%800-701-70-00; Libertad 1700; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
State Tourist Office (%614-429-35-96, 800-508-01-11; www.chihuahuamexico.com; Aldama 901, Palacio de Gobierno; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Delivers hit-or-miss service though there are plenty of maps and brochures. Tourist information kiosks (Blvd Juan Pablo II No 4107; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) just outside and at the bus station are more helpful.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Located 15km northeast of town, Chihuahua’s airport (%614-478-70-00; www.oma.aero; Blvd Juan Pablo II Km 14) has regular flights to San Francisco, Miami, Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. It’s serviced by Aeroméxico (%800-262-40-12, 614-201-96-96; www.aeromexico.com; Ortiz Mena 2807; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri), Interjet (%614-430-25-46; www.interjet.com.mx; Av de la Juventud 3501; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun), Viva Aerobus (www.vivaaerobus.com) and Volaris (www.volaris.com).
BUS
Chihuahua’s busy main bus station (%614-420-53-98; Blvd Juan Pablo II No 4107) is 7km east of the center.
Los Paisanos (%614-418-73-68, US 866-771-7575; www.lospaisanosautobuses.com; cnr Calle 78 & Degollado) offers first-class bus service to the US from its stand-alone depot. Destinations include Dallas (US$65, 17 to 19 hours) and Los Angeles (US$69, 22 hours).
For Cuauhtémoc (M$110, 1½ hours) and Creel (M$420, 4½ hours) there are regular departures from both Rápidos Cuauhtémoc (%614-416-48-40; Blvd Juan Pablo II No 4107) and Autotransportes Noroeste (%614-411-57-83; www.turisticosnoroeste.com; Blvd Juan Pablo II No 4107). The latter also has five daily departures (6am to 4pm) to the Copper Canyon hot spots of Divisadero (M$510, 5½ hours) and San Rafael (M$540, six hours) via Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre.
BUSES FROM CHIHUAHUA
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ciudad Juárez | 670 | 5-6 | hourly |
| Durango | 985 | 10-13 | 10 |
| Guadalajara | 1505 | 13 | 2 |
| Monterrey | 805-865 | 11-12 | 8 |
| Nuevo Casas Grandes | 505 | 4½ | hourly |
| Parral | 340 | 3-5 | hourly |
| Saltillo | 775 | 10 | 7 |
| Zacatecas | 950 | 8 | 6 |
TRAIN
Chihuahua is the northeastern terminus for the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico, with departures at 6am daily. All trains have 1st-class carriages, while on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, clase económica carriages are coupled on the back. The station (%614-439-72-12, 800-122-43-47; www.chepe.com.mx; Méndez 2205; h5am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat) is 1.5km south of Plaza de Armas; there are no amenities – just a ticket office. You can nearly always buy tickets on the day of travel, just be sure to arrive at least one hour before departure.
8Getting Around
To get to the main bus station, catch a ‘Circunvalación Sur’ bus (Av Carranza s/n; M$7, 30 to 50 minutes) heading northwest on Carranza, almost opposite Plaza Hidalgo.
From the center, there are taxis to the train station (M$50), bus station (M$80) and airport (M$200). Airport taxis back to town are pricey (around M$350).
Nuevo Casas Grandes & Casas Grandes
%636 / Pop 60,800 / Elev 1457m
Nuevo Casas Grandes, 345km northwest of Chihuahua, is a prosperous but unremarkable country town, with small communities of Mormon and Mennonite settlers. Tourism-wise it’s a transportation hub for those heading to the prettier village of Casas Grandes by the pre-Hispanic ruins of Paquimé (7km south) and the pottery center of Mata Ortiz (27km south).
1Sights
oPaquiméARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(%636-692-41-40; zapaquime.museo@gmail.com; Allende s/n, Casas Grandes; adult/child under 13yr M$70/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
These ruins, in a broad valley with panoramas to distant mountains, contain the mazelike adobe remnants of northern Mexico’s most important trading settlement. Paquimé was the center of the Mogollón or Casas Grandes culture, which extended north into New Mexico and Arizona and over most of Chihuahua. The site’s impressive, meticulously detailed Museo de las Culturas del Norte has displays about Paquimé and the linked indigenous cultures of northern Mexico and the southwest USA.
The site was sacked, perhaps by Apaches, around 1340. Excavation and restoration began in the 1950s; Unesco declared it a World Heritage site in 1998. Plaques, in Spanish and English, discuss Paquimé culture: don’t miss the clay macaw cages and the distinctive T-shaped door openings. The Paquimé people revered the scarlet macaw and some structures here represent this beautiful bird, which has never been native to northern Mexico and is evidence of Paquimé’s far-reaching trade network.
The Paquimé people were great potters and produced striking cream-colored earthenware with red, brown or black geometric designs; some amazing original examples are on display in the museum, and modern reproductions are for sale.
4Sleeping & Eating
oLas Guacamayas B&BB&B$$
(%692-699-09-97; www.mataortizollas.com; Av 20 de Noviembre, Casas Grandes; s/d incl breakfast US$50/70; pnaW) 
S
This adobe-walled place has charming rooms with beamed roofs, all built using recycled materials, and a lovely garden area. Owner Mayte Lujan has a world-class collection of Mata Ortiz pottery and is extremely knowledgable about the region. It is located just a stone’s throw from the entrance to the ruins of Paquimé.
El Mesón del KioteSTEAK$$
(%636-690-06-98; Av Juárez 1201, Casas Grandes; mains M$145-230; h8am-10pm)
For a fine steak, there’s no better spot than this two-story restaurant with an alpine feel. There’s a great variety of cuts, but go all out with the rib eye, a tender, flavorful – and substantial – plate of meat. Most orders come with a baked potato and sides.
PompeiiMEXICAN$$
(%636-661-46-03; www.pompeii-restaurant.com.mx; Av Juárez 2601, Nuevo Casas Grandes; mains M$140-200; h11am-midnight)
Don’t be turned off by its bright-red neon facade, reminiscent of a sleazy nightclub. This friendly and smart spot is actually quiet mellow – no thumping music here – and favored by groups visiting Mata Ortiz. It serves up scrumptious modern Mexican dishes with an emphasis on the area’s specialty, pavo (turkey).
8Information
Tourist Information Office (%ext 110 636-692-43-13; Palacio Municipal, Constitución s/n, Casas Grandes; h9am-3pm) Staff in this small office are friendly and quick to hand out brochures and maps.
8Getting There & Away
In Nuevo Casas Grandes, Ómnibus de México (%636-694-05-02; www.odm.com.mx; Obregón 312) and Estrella Blanca/Chihuahuenses (%636-694-07-80, 800-507-5500; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Obregón 308) offer 1st-class buses to Chihuahua (M$505 to M$550, 4½ hours, eight daily), the border at Nogales (M$545 to M$710, seven hours, six daily) and Ciudad Juárez (M$400, four hours, six daily).
To get to Paquimé from Nuevo Casas Grandes, ‘Casas Grandes’ buses (M$9, 20 minutes, 8:30am to 7:30pm Monday to Saturday, to 4:30pm Sunday) depart every hour, northbound from Constitución, just north of Calle 16 de Septiembre. Get off in Casas Grandes’ plaza and walk 800m south on Constitución to the ruins. A taxi from Nuevo Casas Grandes to Paquimé is around M$120.
PANCHO VILLA: BANDIT TURNED REVOLUTIONARY
Macho womanizer, revolutionary, cattle rustler, lover of education, a man of impulsive violence who detested alcohol – no hero in Mexico’s history is as colorful or contradictory as Francisco ‘Pancho’ Villa.
Villa is best known as a leader of the Mexican Revolution, but as much of his adulthood was given over to theft and chasing women as to any noble cause. Born Doroteo Arango to hacienda workers in northern Durango state in 1878, he turned to banditry by the age of 16, taking the name Francisco Villa, possibly in honor of his grandfather. The story goes that Villa became an outlaw after shooting one of the hacienda-owning family who tried to rape his sister. Between 1894 and 1910, Villa’s life veered between spells of banditry and attempts to lead a legitimate existence.
In 1910, amid intensifying opposition to the dictatorial regime of President Porfirio Díaz, Villa was lobbied for support by Abraham González, leader in Chihuahua state of the revolutionary movement headed by Francisco Madero. González knew he needed natural fighting leaders and encouraged Villa to return to marauding. Villa soon raised a fighting force to join the Revolution, which began on November 20, 1910.
When Villa’s rebels took Ciudad Juárez in May 1911, Díaz resigned. Madero was elected president, but in 1913 he was toppled from power by one of his own commanders, General Victoriano Huerta, and executed. Villa fled across the US border to El Paso, but within a couple of months he was back as one of four revolutionary leaders opposed to Huerta. He quickly raised an army of thousands, the famed División del Norte, and by the end of 1913, with the help of US-supplied guns, he had taken Ciudad Juárez (again) and Chihuahua, installing himself as state governor for the next two years. He expropriated property and money from rich hacendados (landowners), lowered prices of basic necessities and established schools, but favored his troops over noncombatants and tolerated no dissent. His victory over a pro-Huerta army at Zacatecas in June 1914 signaled the end for Huerta. But the four revolutionary forces soon split into two camps, with liberal leaders Venustiano Carranza and Álvaro Obregón on one side, and the more radical Villa and Emiliano Zapata on the other. Villa was routed by Obregón in the Battle of Celaya (1915) and never recovered his influence.
After the USA recognized Carranza’s government in October 1915, Villa decided to simultaneously discredit Carranza and seek revenge on US president Wilson. On March 9, 1916, Villa’s men sacked the US town of Columbus, New Mexico, which was home to both a US cavalry garrison and Sam Ravel, who had once cheated Villa on an arms deal. Though as many as half of Villa’s 500 militiamen may have died that day (there were 18 US deaths) and Ravel wasn’t found (he was at the dentist in El Paso), the attack ended up a success for Villa because it drew a punitive US Army expedition into Mexico in pursuit of him, and boosted his legend. Villa carried on fighting the Carranza regime, raiding cities and haciendas, but now had to maintain his fighting force by conscription, and sometimes allowed his men to pillage and slaughter.
In 1920 Carranza was deposed by his former ally Obregón, and Villa signed a peace treaty with provisional president Adolfo de la Huerta. Villa pledged to lay down his arms and retire to a hacienda in Canutillo, for which the Huerta government paid M$636,000. Villa was given money to cover wages owed to his troops and help the widows and orphans of the División del Norte. He settled 759 of his former troops at Canutillo, setting up a school for them and their children.
For the next three years, Villa led a relatively quiet life. He bought a hotel in Hidalgo del Parral and regularly attended cockfights. He installed one of his many ‘wives,’ Soledad Seañez, in a Parral apartment, and kept another at Canutillo. Then, one day while he was leaving Parral in his Dodge touring car, a volley of shots rang out and the legendary revolutionary was killed. The light prison sentences the eight-man assassin team received led many to conclude that the order for the killing came from President Obregón, though with all the enemies Villa made over the years, there are many suspects.
Durango
%618 / Pop 519,000 / Elev 1880m
Durango, capital of the eponymous desert state, is an immensely likable place, with an attractive, beautifully kept and laid-back city center and a friendly local populace. It is also one of Mexico’s most isolated cities: you have to travel hours through the desert or the Sierra Madre mountains from here before you hit another significant settlement. Yet isolation has fostered unique regional traits, such as the distinctive local cuisine and wry humor.
Founded in 1563, Durango’s early importance was due to nearby iron-ore deposits, along with gold and silver from the Sierra Madre. Today hundreds of maquiladoras (assembly plants) dominate the economy. For visitors, the city’s striking colonial center commands attention with over 70 historic buildings and several fascinating museums, while good accommodations and restaurants are plentiful.
Note: Durango state’s time zone is one hour ahead of Chihuahua and Sinaloa.
DON’T MISS
HIGHEST BRIDGE IN THE AMERICAS
Soaring an incredible 402m above the Río Baluarte, this incredible feat of engineering, Puente Baluarte (Autopista Durango-Mazatlán) is the highest bridge in the Americas. It’s one of many incredible bridges on the Durango–Mazatlán Hwy, a magnificent toll road that boasts some of Mexico’s most incredible scenery, with epic tunnels through mountains, hairpin bends and jaw-dropping views all the way. If you only drive one road in Mexico, make it this one.
1Sights
Constitución, pedestrianized between Jardín Hidalgo past the Plaza de Armas to Plazuela Baca Ortiz, is among Mexico’s most appealing traffic-free streets, lined with restaurants and cafes and lively day and night.
oMuseo Francisco VillaMUSEUM
(map %618-811-47-93; 5 de Febrero s/n; adult/child M$20/10; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun; c)
Housed in a spectacular colonial mansion, this well-conceived museum pays deep homage to the Mexican revolutionary hero Pancho Villa. Sixteen rooms worth of multimedia displays, films and personal effects tell the story of Durango’s most famous native son. Be sure to leave some time to check out the gorgeous murals, which depict the history of the country and state. Signage is in English, Spanish and even braille.
oMuseo de la Ciudad 450MUSEUM
(map Google map %618-137-84-90; cnr Av 20 de Noviembre & Victoria; adult/child M$22/5; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; c)
This impressive city museum features an interesting collection of interactive exhibits, from pre-Hispanic times through colonization to the present day, and deal with Durango’s economy, mining, traditions and culture. The museum has an entire section dedicated to the film industry, highlighting the more than 130 films that have been made in and near the city, including The Wild Bunch (1968), Zorro (1997) and Texas Rising (2014). Don’t miss the alacraneo, a black-light-lit tank with over 5000 scorpions.
Paseo del Viejo OesteFILM LOCATION
(%618-113-12-92; Hwy 45 Km 12; adult/child M$35/25; h11am-7pm; c)
Many of the big-screen cowboys have swaggered through this film set. Today the set is a souvenir-drenched theme park with regular mock film productions (2pm and 4pm Monday to Friday; 1pm, 3pm and 5pm Saturday and Sunday). It’s located 12km north of town; a free shuttle bus leaves for here from the Plaza de Armas 30 minutes before each show and returns two hours later (though visitors are welcome to stay longer). Great fun for families. Horseback riding and wagon rides available too.
Plaza de ArmasPLAZA
Flower- and fountain-filled Plaza de Armas is graced by the handsome baroque Catedral del Basílica Menor (map Google map %618-811-42-42; h8am-9pm). A popular meeting spot, there’s a bandstand, shade trees and loads of benches. In the late afternoon and evening, vendors do brisk business in everything from corn on the cob to crepes.
The entrance to the Túnel de Minería (map Google map Tunnel of Mining; %618-137-53-61; Juárez 313; M$20; h10am-9:30pm Tue-Sun), a museum devoted to the history of mining in Durango, is located on the east side of the plaza.
Museo de Arqueología de Durango Ganot-PeschardMUSEUM
(map Google map %618-813-10-47; Zaragoza 315 Sur; adult/child M$10/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun)
This small, somewhat dated museum has fascinating displays and collection of artifacts from the different indigenous peoples who’ve lived in the region since the Paleolithic era. Particularly impressive (and a little eerie) is an exhibit of deformed skulls and funerary items of the Aztlan tribe. Kids may enjoy the recreation of an archaeological dig, complete with dim lighting, skeletons and pottery.
Museo Palacio de los GurzaMUSEUM
(map %618-811-17-20; Negrete 901 Poniente; adult/child M$10/5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This small museum, housed in a gorgeous 18th-century home, has rotating exhibits of modern art by up-and-coming Mexican artists; pieces often have politicized messages about Mexico or its neighbor to the north. Oddly, there’s also a permanent exhibit showcasing a collection of old Mexican coins and antique money-making machines.
Museo Regional de DurangoMUSEUM
(map Google map El Aguacate; %618-813-10-94; www.museo.ujed.mx; Victoria 100 Sur; adult/child M$10/5; h8am-3pm Mon, 8am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun; c)
In a palatial French-style, 19th-century mansion, this museum has thorough displays on Durango state’s geology, history and culture. Durango’s main indigenous population, the Tepehuan people, and the area’s impressive array of minerals get special attention; there also are paintings by Miguel Cabrera. Most explanations are in English and Spanish.
2Activities
Paseo TeleféricoCABLE CAR
(map Google map Av Florida 1145; adult/child M$20/10; h10am-9pm Tue-Sun; c)
This gondola takes visitors from a small hill in the center of Durango, Cerro del Calvario, to a viewpoint just 680m away, Cerro de los Remedios. A simple ride, it’s all about the journey as the views from the air far outshine those at the destination. An easy, cheap outing.
zFestivals & Events
Feria NacionalFAIR
(%618-161-00-70; www.ferianacionaldurango.gob.mx; Hwy 23 Km 3.5; M$15; hlate June–mid-July; c)
For three weeks between late June and mid-July, Durango’s big annual party remembers its agricultural roots with charreadas (Mexican rodeos) plus a duranguense music and culture fest. Amusement-park rides and food vendors round out the festivities. Free transportation is typically offered to the fairgrounds, which are 9km from the center; check the website for pick-up/drop-off spots.
4Sleeping
oLa Casa de BrunoHOSTEL$
(map %618-811-55-55; www.lacasadebrunohostal.com; Bruno Martínez 508 Sur; dm/r M$230/350; nW)
An artsy, welcoming place, this downtown hostel has three dorms, all with tall bunks that have thick mattresses, cozy bedding and privacy curtains. Two tiny private rooms are set apart from the dorms, but follow suit in comfort. There’s a small common kitchen and coffee and pastries are offered each morning. A great place to meet other travelers.
Posada de MaríaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map %618-158-12-17; www.posadademaria.mx; 5 de Febrero 922; r/ste incl breakfast from M$2500/3100; paWs)
Located in the heart of downtown Durango, each room in this renovated colonial casona (mansion) is modern and plush with Victorian-era-meets-Mexico flair (think Tiffany lamps and Oaxacan fabrics). There are loads of inviting lounge areas, including a lap pool and rooftop with enviable views. A restaurant and massage room (even a hair salon) are pluses.
Hostal de la MonjaHOTEL$$$
(map Google map %618-837-17-19; www.hostaldelamonja.com.mx; Constitución 214 Sur; r/ste incl breakfast from M$1693/1994; pnaW)
This 19th-century mansion facing the cathedral has been tastefully converted into an atmospheric 20-room hotel and is one of the best addresses in central Durango. The comfortable rooms manage to combine tradition and modern amenities well and there’s a good restaurant too. Request a room at the back if you’re noise sensitive, however, as sound from the restaurant carries. Wi-fi is hit and miss in the lobby and almost nonexistent in the rooms.
5Eating & Drinking
Specialties in Durango include caldillo duranguense (Durango stew), made with machaca (dried shredded meat) and ate (pronounced ‘ah-tay’ – a quince paste enjoyed with cheese).
oCremería WallanderDELI$
(map Google map %618-811-77-05; www.wallander.com.mx; Independencia 128 Norte; meals M$60-140; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; aW
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This delightful deli sells the artisanal products of the Wallander family farm as well as regional delicacies, fresh bread, preserves and pastries. Outside in the back courtyard you can enjoy healthy breakfasts, mega tortas (sandwiches) and sublime pizzas. Foodies will love the selection here, while for everyone else it’ll be a welcome break from standard Mexican dishes.
La Tetera Bistro CafeBISTRO$
(map %618-195-53-78; Callejon Florida 1135; mains M$65-95; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sat; W)
This cool-cat cafe specializes in light meals – crepes, sandwiches, salads – made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Seating is open-air, at wood tables or any number of cozy couches; plants and boho art fill the space. Not hungry? There’s a huge array of teas, coffee drinks and smoothies too. Friday and Saturday evenings bring twinkling lights and live music. Located on a pedestrian side street, just up an outdoor set of stairs.
Gorditas DurangoMEXICAN$
(map %618-164-44-98; Plaza Centenario, cnr Pino Suárez & Zaragoza; meal M$30-50; h8am-5pm; c)
For good cheap eats, pop into this locals’ eatery. Specializing in gorditas (a small, thick tortilla stuffed with your choice of fillings) – two or three are enough to make a hefty meal. Fillings range from bistek (steak) and chicharrón (fried pork belly) to nopales (cactus) and mole (chicken in a spicy chocolate sauce). Burritos also offered.
Fonda de la Tía ChonaMEXICAN$$
(map Google map %618-812-77-48; www.facebook.com/FondaTia Chona; Nogal 110; mains M$80-180; h5-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5:30pm Sun)
A Durango institution, this richly atmospheric, venerable place is dedicated to local cuisine such as caldillos (beef stews) and delicious chiles en nogadas (peppers in walnut sauce).
Birriería MendozaMEXICAN$$
(map %618-811-56-43; www.facebook.com/BirrieriaMendozaDurango; Hidalgo 317; mains M$70-150; h8am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Antiques Roadshow meets colonial Mexico in this quirky restaurant. Here, birria (goat stew, typical of Jalisco) gets Duranguense twists by incorporating guajillo and pasilla chilies or substituting lamb chops and ribs. Tables themselves are set in a colonial building decorated with loads of antiques like old radios, milk jugs and grandfather clocks. A memorable stop for your belly and eyes.
Restaurant Playa AzulSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map %618-811-93-73; www.facebook.com/playaazuldurango; Constitución 241 Norte; dishes M$90-200; h10am-10pm; c)
Fish and shrimp don’t immediately leap to mind in an inland city such as Durango, but this seafood specialist is one of the best restaurants in town. Service in the colorfully decorated 18th-century patio is professional, and you can choose from 20 ways of preparing grouper fillets or a range of seafood cocktails, including the six-ingredient Molotov.
oWirikuta CafeCAFE
(map Google map %618-812-69-52; www.facebook.com/pg/wirikutacafe; Florida 1201; h8am-11pm; W)
Mind-blowingly good coffee is dispensed at this sleek cafe, where coffee culture is taken seriously. The friendly and passionate baristas also sell excellent pastries and artisanal breads. For something more substantial, there’s also a menu featuring crepes, sandwiches and fresh salads.
8Information
Durango State Tourist Office (%618-811-11-07; www.durango.gob.mx; Florida 1106; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) has friendly and enthusiastic English-speaking staff and lots of brochures; it has a satellite information kiosk (Blvd Villa 101; h9am-9pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri & Sat, 9am-3pm Sun & Wed) at the bus station. The city also has a kiosk (%618-137-84-31; www.durangotravel.mx; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun) on the Plaza de Armas, inside the bandstand.
Hospital General (%618-813-00-11; cnr Av 5 de Febrero & Fuentes; h24hr) For emergencies or walk-in medical care.
Post Office (Av 20 de Noviembre 1016 Oriente; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Durango’s main post office.
8Getting There & Away
Aeropuerto Guadalupe Victoria (%618-118-70-12; www.oma.aero; Autopista Durango-Gómez Palacios Km 15.5), 20km northeast of town on Hwy 40D, is a relatively quiet regional airport. It is serviced by Aeromexico (www.aeromexico.com) and TAR Aerolíneas (www.tarmexico.com). A taxi here from central Durango costs about M$250.
The Central Camionera de Durango (%618-818-36-63; Blvd Villa 101), 5km east of the center, has frequent bus departures, including several 1st-class options.
BUSES FROM DURANGO
| DESTINATION | FARE (M$) | DURATION (HR) | FREQUENCY (DAILY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chihuahua | 840 | 8½-11 | 12 |
| Los Mochis | 1090 | 6 | 3 |
| Mazatlán | 600 | 3 | 11 |
| Mexico City (Terminal Norte) | 1270 | 11-13 | 14 |
| Monterrey (via Saltillo) | 835 | 7 | 8 |
| Parral | 595 | 6 | 10 |
| Zacatecas | 415 | 4-5 | hourly |
8Getting Around
‘ISSSTE’ or ‘Centro’ buses (M$9) from the Central de Autobuses parking lot get you to the Plaza de Armas. Metered taxis cost about M$40 to the center.
To reach the Central de Autobuses from downtown, catch ‘Camionera’ buses (Negrete s/n) on Calle Negrete, one block south of the Museo Regional. Get off before the major intersection with the Pancho Villa equestrian monument and a McDonald’s, and walk a short way northeast.
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