Copper Canyon & Northern Mexico

Why Go?

Northern Mexico is the ultimate frontier land: vast cactus-strewn deserts, craggy mountains and breathtaking canyons define this most iconic of regions, which is familiar to almost anyone from its role in countless Wild West movies. If the landscape is diverse, then the people of the north are equally so: cowboys, revolutionaries and bandits have, over the centuries, left their mark on the region, while the varied and still deeply traditional indigenous peoples remain some of Mexico’s least Westernized.

Though the narco wars have impacted the north terribly in recent years, it remains a safe place to visit for anyone taking a few sensible precautions, and these days you’ll find you have it pretty much to yourself. The Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico (Copper Canyon Railway), Mexico’s only remaining long-distance passenger train ride, is the region’s most outstanding sight, but its colonial towns, superb beaches and diverse wildlife are other strong lures.

When to Go

Jun & Jul Heavy rainfall. Key festivals like Las Jornadas Villistas in Parral.
Late Sep–Oct Pleasantly hot during the day. Good time to visit the coming-into-bloom Copper Canyon.
Dec & Jan Balmy, dry weather makes for a popular beach escape though Festival Tirado lures many inland.

Best Places to Eat

A Teresitas

A Madre Oaxaca

A Plaza del Mariachi

A Restaurante Barranco

A Cremería Wallander

Best Places to Stay

A Hacienda de los Santos

A Dream Weaver Inn

A La Troje de Adobe

A Hotel San Felipe El Real

A Foggara Hotel

Copper Canyon & Northern Mexico Highlights

1 Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico Riding Mexico’s last passenger train through canyon scenery.

2 El Pinacate Biosphere Reserve Experiencing the lunar landscapes of this spectacular desert reserve.

3 Cuatro Ciénegas Exploring this oasis reserve, one of the most biodiverse places in the world.

4 Álamos Checking into a colonial hotel and taking in the beauty of this old silver town.

5 Horno3 Being awed by Monterrey’s heavy metal heritage.

6 Playa los Algodones Relaxing in San Carlos’s finest beach: white sand and turquoise waters.

7 Cascada de Basaseachi Floating in the plunge pool of Mexico’s highest full-time waterfall.

8 Durango Soaking up history and culture in this charming colonial town.

9 Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre Zip-lining over the incredible Copper Canyon at adrenaline-pumping speed.

History

Pre-Hispanic northern Mexico had more in common with the Anasazi and other cultures of the southwest USA than with central Mexico. The most important town here was Paquimé, a vital trading link between central Mexico and the dry north before its destruction around AD 1340. Outlying Paquimé settlements such as Cuarenta Casas built their dwellings on cliffsides for protection against attack.

Spanish slavers and explorers, arriving chiefly in search of gold in the 16th century, had mixed fortunes in the north. In the northwest they encountered indigenous peoples including the Opata, Seri, Yaqui and Mayo. Rather than the fabled province of Cíbola with its supposed seven cities of gold, the Spanish found silver and, conscripting indigenous people as slave miners, established prosperous mining cities such as Álamos. Spaniards also soon forged the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (Royal Road of the Interior), a 2560km trade route from Mexico City to Santa Fe, New Mexico, which helped make towns en route such as Durango extremely wealthy. In the northeast, however, harsh conditions and attacks by indigenous Chichimecs and Apaches meant settlement and development came more slowly.

The Spanish never tightened control here sufficiently to quell revolts. In the fight for Mexican Independence (1810), the Mexican–American War of the 1840s and the Mexican Revolution (1910–20) the northern states necessarily played a key role. Frontiers radically changed with Mexico’s loss of Texas and New Mexico (1830s–1850s); the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo (1848) that ended the Mexican–American War finally established today’s Río Bravo del Norte (Rio Grande) frontier between the two nations.

Glaring inequities of land ownership between the elite – grown wealthy from the mines – and the impoverished majority contributed to the unrest that made the north a Mexican Revolution hot spot. The revolutionary División del Norte, an army led by legendary Durango-born Pancho Villa, was in the forefront of several major battles. Venustiano Carranza and Álvaro Obregón, other main revolutionary figures, were, respectively, from the northern states of Coahuila and Sonora. All three were initially allies and subsequently enemies in the Revolution, which meant the split of allegiances in the north was acute.

Irrigation programs in the mid-20th century turned Sonora into the granary of Mexico as well as a cattle-ranching center alongside neighboring Chihuahua. Discovery of petroleum, coal and natural gas and the arrival of the railroad also accelerated development from the late 19th century, and the region emerged as an industrial leader.

Today this is the most North Americanized part of Mexico, with money and resources surging back and forth across the border and baseball the main sport in many towns. The Texan economy is particularly dependent on Mexican workers and US investment is behind most maquiladoras (assembly-plant operations) that ring all the region’s big cities.

Since 2006, drug cartel violence has plagued northern Mexico as gangs compete for territory. Initially the border cities were worst affected, but the violence has since spread, affecting all the main centers of population. Yet despite the headlines, the region’s economy remains relatively prosperous, with steady growth rates (except in the tourism sector, which continues to suffer).

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

While the vast majority of visitors to northern Mexico enjoy a safe, trouble-free trip, the region does have active drug trafficking and related violence.

A Use a trusted local guide for any off-the-beaten-path excursions to avoid encountering drug cultivation fields and areas plagued by cartels or gangs.

A Violence can occur at bars, nightclubs and casinos – take care when visiting such establishments.

A Use toll roads (cuotas) whenever possible; they are safer, quicker and in better condition.

A In cities, always lock your car doors to guard against carjackings.

A Avoid traveling after dark, especially in isolated areas and around the border.

The Copper Canyon & Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico

The highland scenery of this region is nothing short of spectacular. Northern Mexico does not lack for amazing attractions, but none compares to the Copper Canyon for sheer wow-factor, with its astonishing cliff-top vistas, towering pine-clad mountains and the fascinating culture of the native Tarahumara people.

A labyrinth of six main canyons covers an area four times larger than Arizona’s Grand Canyon system, and is deeper, narrower and much more verdant than its American counterpart. Tropical fruit trees grow in the canyon bottoms while the high ground is covered in alpine vegetation and, often, winter snows.

A handful of towns make convenient base camps for exploring the region. Creel is the largest and home to several recommended hotels. Further into the canyon system are Divisadero, Arepo and Cerocahui, all along or near the famous Chepe train route, and the more remote (yet readily accessible) canyon-bottom villages of Batopilas and Urique.

2Activities

All manner of natural wonders are accessible by foot, horse, bike or motor vehicle – cliffs, towering rock massifs, rivers, waterfalls, lakes and forests. For the ultimate buzz, head to the Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre, where you can soar over death-defying drops on a series of Mexico’s most hair-raising zip-lines.

oFerrocarril Chihuahua PacíficoRAIL

(El Chepe; %614-439-72-12, 800-122-43-73; www.chepe.com.mx; full journey 1st/2nd class M$3276/1891; c)

The stats say everything: 656km of track, 37 bridges, 86 tunnels and more than 60 years in the making. The Copper Canyon Railway is one of the world’s most incredible rail journeys, and northern Mexico’s biggest single attraction. Nicknamed ‘El Chepe’ (using the Spanish initials of ‘Chihuahua’ and ‘Pacífico’), the railway operates one daily train in each direction, taking a full day.

Completed in 1961, the railway is as phenomenal in its engineering prowess as in the canyon views it yields.

The line is the major link between Chihuahua and the coast, heavily used for freight as well as passengers. It connects the Pacific coast with the mountainous, arid interior of northern Mexico via tricky canyon gradients that force it to rise up over 2400m.

Between Los Mochis and El Fuerte, the train trundles through flat farmland, then begins to climb through hills speckled with dark pillars of cacti. It passes over the long Río Fuerte bridge and through the first of the 86 tunnels about four hours after leaving Los Mochis. The train hugs the sides of deepening canyons and makes a spectacular zigzag ascent into a tunnel above Témoris, after which pine trees appear on the hillsides. By the next station, Bahuichivo, you are in the Sierra Madre uplands, with flower-dotted meadows punctuating an entrancing alpine landscape. The biggest highlight of the train ride is stopping at Divisadero, where you get your only glimpse of the actual Copper Canyon. The train circles back over itself in a complete loop to gain height at the suitably named El Lazo (the Lasso), before chugging on to Creel and Chihuahua.

There’s not that much difference between primera and económica carriages – the former has a dining room, the latter a canteen. Snacks cost M$20 and meals around M$100. Coffee is instant in both classes. Neither has wi-fi. All carriages are rather showing their age (dating from the 1980s), and tickets are overpriced given the moderate comfort levels. Both classes have air-conditioning, heating and reclining seats with ample leg room. The clase económica is certainly nice enough for most travelers, although often you’ll have no choice but primera.

Note that you’re not allowed to consume alcohol on any of the trains, but that smoking is tolerated in the open-air gap between carriages. All trains are staffed with machine-gun-toting plainclothes police.

8Information

TICKETS

You can board the train at any station without a ticket if there are free seats, and pay the conductor. Outside the peak seasons (Semana Santa, July, August, Christmas and New Year), you will almost always be able to do this. However, it’s advisable to reserve tickets a month or more ahead for peak-season travel, and a day ahead at other times, although in practice most of the time you’ll have no problem buying tickets on the day of travel.

Tickets are sold at Los Mochis station and Chihuahua station for trips starting at any station. Primera express tickets are sold up to a month in advance, and clase económica tickets a day in advance. Tickets can be made up to a year in advance by telephone (English speakers available) and email. On the primera express, you can make stopovers (usually up to three) at no Copper Canyon (m)extra cost, if you specify places and dates when you make the booking.

For same-day tickets, you should be at Los Mochis or Chihuahua station an hour ahead of departure. Only Los Mochis, Creel, Cuauhtémoc and Chihuahua stations have ticket offices.

When purchasing your tickets, request a seat on the south side of the railcar (from Los Mochis to Chihuahua, that’s the right side of the train; from Chihuahua to Los Mochis, the left side) – you’ll enjoy the best views.

See here for the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico schedule and ticket prices.

El Fuerte

%698 / Pop 11,900 / Elev 90m

Clustered around a striking plaza and with a center packed full of brightly painted colonial houses, El Fuerte oozes historic character. For many centuries the most important commercial center in northwestern Mexico due to its proximity to the silver mines in the canyons, this is now a picturesque little town surrounded by one of Latin America’s last-standing dry tropical forests. Far preferable to Los Mochis as a place to start or end a trip on the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico, it’s worth a stay of more than just a night to take a trip on the Río Fuerte and explore the unique subtropical countryside.

El Fuerte was founded in 1564, and is named for a 17th-century fort built on its distinctive high point of Cerro de las Pilas to protect settlers from indigenous attacks.

1Sights

Bosque SecretoFOREST

(Secret Forest) S

Five hundred years ago, over 550,000 sq km of dry tropical forest stretched down the coast from northern Mexico to Panama. Much of the remaining 10% is around El Fuerte, an area known as Bosque Secreto. The delightful Río Fuerte, which is incredibly rich in birdlife (including herons, osprey, kingfishers and flycatchers), winds through much of the forest.

Hotel Río Vista leads recommended boat trips (M$300 per person) along the river, taking in some 2000-year-old petroglyphs.

4Sleeping

Hotel La ChozaHOTEL$

(%698-893-12-74; www.hotellachoza.com; 5 de Mayo 101; r M$700; pnaWs)

This deceptively large hotel has a colonial facade, but becomes rather more modern as you enter its enormous courtyard. It boasts inviting rooms, all with quaint touches such as hand-painted sinks, enormous crucifixes over the beds and high, brick-vaulted ceilings. It’s excellent value, and the in-house Diligencias (mains M$70-220; h7am-10pm; W) restaurant is a good bet too.

Hotel GuerreroHOTEL$

(%698-893-05-24; www.hotelyhostelguerrero.jimdo.com; Juárez 106; r M$400; naW)

This budget hotel in the center of El Fuerte has charming staff who go the extra mile to look after their guests. The rooms, set around a shady pillared patio, are colorful and comfortable, if a bit shabby. Avoid the cell-like rooms on the left, and try for one of the older but roomier ones on the right.

Hotel Río VistaHOTEL$$

(%698-893-04-13, cell 698-1042647; hotelriovista@hotmail.com; Progreso s/n; r M$670; paWs)

This quirky place tucked behind the town’s hilltop museum has been hosting travelers for years. Stylistically it’s a bit of a shock to the senses with murals, garish colors and an excess of Mexicana and other bizarre curios. But hey, the superb river views compensate. Plus there’s a pool. The hotel also organizes recommended boat trips along the Bosque Secreto.

oPosada del HidalgoHERITAGE HOTEL$$$

(%800-552-56-45, 698-893-02-42; www.hotelposadadelhidalgo.com; Hidalgo 101; s/d/tr M$1525/1625/1950; paiWs)

This highly atmospheric hotel inside a rusty red colonial hacienda offers bundles of classic charm with spacious, elegant rooms grouped around shady garden courtyards and jaw-dropping public areas. There’s a beautiful open-air restaurant, a pool, a massage room and a popular bar for socializing. Hummingbirds join guests for breakfast.

Torres del FuerteBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(%698-893-19-74; www.facebook.com/Torresdel Fuerte; Robles 102; s/d/tr US$100/110/130; pnaW)

A 400-year-old hacienda that fuses colonial class and contemporary art, set around gorgeous gardens. All rooms are individually themed – China, India, Morocco – many with slate bathrooms and exposed adobe walls. Giant cacti frame the rooms, while high ceilings with wooden beams soar overhead. There’s also a gourmet restaurant, Bonifacio’s (mains M$70-250; h7am-noon & 6:30-9:30pm; v).

5Eating

The wealth of fresh water around El Fuerte produces must-have local specialties such as cauques or langostinos (freshwater crayfish) and lobina (black bass). That said, restaurant choices are very limited in town.

oSU-FÓ Sushi & Cocina BistroBISTRO$

(%698-893-50-17; www.facebook.com/pg/Sufo Sushi.Bistro; Constitucion 112; dishes M$60-90; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W)

SU-FÓ serves up an eclectic menu of sushi rolls (all with signature cream cheese), rice bowls, hamburgers with hand-cut fries and even fancy chicken nuggets. Somehow it works – the place is hopping most nights. Seating is in an open-air lot with murals, urban-chic decor and twinkling lights. A staff member plays DJ most nights.

Taco StandsTACOS$

(Juárez s/n; meal M$30-50; h7am-3pm)

A row of taco stands, set up in stand-alone concrete huts, do brisk business in all manner of grilled meats, from al pastor (seasoned pork) to cabeza (cow head; typically cheeks). Join the locals at a counter and order tacos ’til you’re full. BYO drinks. Located next to the bus stop for Los Mochis.

El Mesón del GeneralSEAFOOD$$

(%698-893-02-60; Juárez 202; mains M$110-270; h11am-9:30pm)

A traditional, formal restaurant that specializes in fish and seafood, with several styles of pulpo (octopus) and combo plates of various river delicacies. You’ll find it on El Fuerte’s main drag, an oasis from the bustle of the nearby market.

8Information

Tourist Information Kiosk (5 de Mayo s/n; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) On the central plaza, this tourist kiosk offers brochures and maps of town. Guides linger nearby to offer tips and tours.

8Getting There & Away

Buses to Los Mochis (M$70, two hours) depart about every half-hour, 5am to 7:30pm, from Juárez near Calle 16 de Septiembre, right in the center of town. From Los Mochis it’s easy to connect to elsewhere in northern Mexico.

The train station is 6km south of town (M$150 by taxi). Many hotels offer station pick-up and drop-off for clients, for which they may or may not charge (up to the taxi rate). If you arrive by train in the evening, waiting shared taxis charge M$50 a person for a run into the town center.

The dirt road to Álamos from here requires 4WD and takes five hours: it’s actually quicker heading to Los Mochis and taking the highway.

RAILWAY SCHEDULE – FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACíFICO

There’s one daily train in each direction. Primera express (1st-class only, and with fewer stops) trains run on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from Los Mochis. From Chihuahua they run on Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday. On other days, the train has both primera and clase económica carriages, meaning it travels rather slower and makes more stops, which impacts the timetable and means that the entire journey takes around an hour longer (13½ hours in total).

Schedules change and both trains tend to run a little late (by an hour or two), so timetables comprise just a rough guideline. If you are heading to Los Mochis with hopes of catching the Baja ferry from Topolobampo the same day, don’t count on it; you’ll find it far easier to schedule an overnight stop in Los Mochis. There is no time change between Los Mochis and Chihuahua.

Eastbound – Los Mochis to Chihauhau

	PRIMERA EXPRESS		CLASE ECONóMICA
Station	Arrives	Fare from Los Mochis (M$)	Arrives (Tue, Fri, Sun)	Fare from Los Mochis (M$)
Los Mochis	6am (departs Los Mochis)	–	6am (departs Los Mochis)	–
El Fuerte	8:16am	602	8:19am	348
Témoris	11:20am	1074	11:24am	620
Bahuichivo	12:20pm	1269	12:35pm	733
San Rafael	1:25pm	1430	1:28pm	825
Posada Barrancas (Arepo)	1:43pm	1480	1:46pm	854
Divisadero	2:22pm	1500	2:25pm	866
Creel	3:44pm	1791	3:42pm	1034
Cuauhtémoc	6:37pm	2609	7:07pm	1506
Chihuahua	8:54pm	3276	9:34pm	1891

Westbound – Chihuahua to Los Mochis

	PRIMERA EXPRESS		CLASE ECONóMICA
Station	Arrives	Fare from Chihuahua (M$)	Arrives (Mon, Thu, Sat)	Fare from Chihuahua (M$)
Chihuahua	6am (departs Chihuahua)	–	6am (departs Chihuahua)	–
Cuauhtémoc	8:25am	667	8:25am	385
Creel	11:20am	1490	11:47am	860
Divisadero	1:04pm	1781	1:41pm	1028
Posada Barrancas (Arepo)	1:11pm	1801	1:52pm	1040
San Rafael	1:37pm	1851	2:16pm	1069
Bahuichivo	2:28pm	2012	3:12pm	1161
Témoris	3:25pm	2208	4:12pm	1274
El Fuerte	6:23pm	2870	7:19pm	1657
Los Mochis	8:22pm	3276	9:28pm	1891

Cerocahui

%635 / Pop 1300 / Elev 1600m

The tiny, attractive village of Cerocahui, dedicated mainly to forestry, sits in the middle of a verdant, vista-laden valley, and is easily reached from El Chepe stop Bahuichivo, 16km away. The canyon country around here sees far fewer tourists than the region near Creel, and the enticing canyon-bottom village of Urique is within striking range.

On the Central Plaza, Cerocahui’s pretty yellow-domed church, San Francisco Javier de Cerocahui, was founded in 1680.

There’s good hiking around Cerocahui, and the excursions (offered by all accommodations) to Cerro del Gallego, a spectacular lookout over the Barranca de Urique, 25km along the Urique road, are well worth it.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel JadeHOTEL$$

(%635-456-52-75; www.hoteljade.com.mx; Plaza del Poblado; s/d M$450/900, apt from $500; na)

This simple place has 10 clean and comfortable rooms, each with full beds and big windows. The warm welcome from hosts Alberto and Francia and the outstanding cooking (including homemade bread, fish dishes and veggie options; meals M$100) really make this place stand out. Area tours are also offered (M$100 to M$600 per person; minimum two people). English spoken.

Cabañas San IsidroCABAñAS$$

(%635-293-75-02; www.coppercanyonamigos.com; Carretera a Urique Km 24; s/d/tr incl full board & transfers US$85/115/140; p) S

High in the hills above Cerocahui, 8km along the road to Urique, this working farm makes a perfect (if isolated) rural base for all kinds of hikes, horseback riding and trips in canyon country. Brothers and co-owners Mario and Tito have excellent connections to the Tarahumara community’s runner-guides. The cozy and artful adobe-and-wood cabins have wood-burning stoves. Meals are tasty and plentiful.

oHotel Paraíso del OsoHOTEL$$$

(%635-109-01-88, Chihuahua 614-421-3372; www.mexicohorse.com; Carretera Bahuichivo-Cerocahui s/n; dm US$15, s/d incl full board US$120/185; pnW)

This excellent family-owned rural lodge is a great base for bird-watching, hikes (from M$50), horseback rides (M$150 per hour) and community tourism (the owners have good Tarahumara contacts). The setup includes spacious, ranch-style rooms overlooking a lush garden courtyard and a fascinating book collection to browse. There’s also a dorm, with several beds that sleep two (meals not included). Located 4km from the center of Cerocahui, on the road to Bahuichivo.

Hotel MisiónHOTEL$$$

(%635-456-52-94; www.hotelmision.com; Plaza del Poblado; s/d incl full board from M$3054/3997; pnis)

This delightful former hacienda on the town’s central plaza offers rustic chic accommodations with chimeneas (fireplaces), an evocative bar-restaurant, a games room with a pool table and lovely gardens planted with vines. It’s popular with tour groups ‘doing’ the canyon, but discounts are often available to independent travelers.

8Getting There & Away

Cerocahui hotels will pick you up at El Chepe’s Bahuichivo train stop if you have reserved a room. If you haven’t, you can often catch a ride with one of their vans anyway, though they’ll be expecting you to check in on arrival.

Alternatively, a local bus leaves Abarrotes El Teto, a small grocery store at the entrance to town that doubles as a bus stop, and is a M$50 taxi ride from the train station. The bus leaves for Cerocahui (M$50, 40 minutes) and Urique (M$230, 3½ hours or more) daily at around 1:30pm; it waits for the train from Chihuahua but does not always wait for the one from Los Mochis. Returning, it leaves Urique at 7am and passes through Cerocahui at around 10am and Bahuichivo at 11am. From Bahuichivo, buses depart every two hours from 6am to 2pm to San Rafael (M$50, 45 minutes), Areponápuchi (M$60, one hour), Divisadero (M$10, 70 minutes), Creel (M$100, two hours) and Chihuahua (M$350, seven to eight hours).

There are several intriguing back roads from Cerocahui that look temptingly direct on maps but should not be attempted without expert local advice. These roads have tough 4WD-only stretches, traverse isolated lands harboring drug plantations and parts can be washed out after heavy rains. A track connects Cerocahui to Choix (from where there’s a paved road to El Fuerte), and another links Bahuichivo with Álamos via Témoris. Consult the owners of Hotel Paraíso del Oso or Cabañas San Isidro about security and road conditions.

ULTRAMARATHONS IN URIQUE

Normally held in Urique in early March, the Ultra Caballo Blanco (www.facebook.com/caballoblancoultramarathon) is an 82km ultramarathon on tough canyon trails and at altitude. It was established by Micah True, a legendary American runner known locally as Caballo Blanco (The White Horse) who lived for years in the Copper Canyon region, and gained international attention when featured in Christopher McDougall’s book Born to Run.

The ultramarathon pays homage to the native Tarahumara (or Rarámuri) people, who have a centuries-old tradition of long-distance running and whose very name is thought to mean ‘the running people’ or ‘having light feet.’ Tarahumara huaraches (sandals made from a thin strip of recycled tires) are said to have inspired the barefoot running method (which tests have shown also reduces energy use and running-related injuries) that has now gone global.

Another event, Carrera de los Pies Ligeros (Race of the Light Feet), held each December, is a rarajipari, a long-distance Tarahumara relay-style running race with two teams kicking a ball along a course. Rarajipari are actually much truer to Tarahumara traditions than pure running races. There are two races, one for each sex, each involving two teams (who run with torches at night) over a distance of more than 100km. This race lasts between 12 and 24 hours, and is only open to Tarahumara people.

The races were canceled in years past due to drug cartel flare-ups, but security and stability have returned to the region, and so the races have returned too.

Urique

%635 / Pop 1000 / Elev 550m

This starry-skied ex-mining village lies at the bottom of the deepest of all the canyons, the spectacular Barranca de Urique, measuring 1870m from rim to river. The trip there is nothing short of spectacular. The mostly unpaved road weaves through rolling pine forest before diving suddenly into the canyon proper. Just past the rim is Mirador Cerro del Gallego, one of the most spectacular viewpoints in the Copper Canyon, with Urique town and river visible far below. From there, the narrow road winds down the nearly sheer canyon wall, a stomach-lurching 15km descent with more hairpin bends than straight sections.

While Urique is a charming and safe place, it is nevertheless known for significant marijuana and poppy cultivation. (That unusually wide street at the edge of town doubles as an airstrip, ostensibly for medical evacuations but handy for transportation of all kinds.) Most visitors won’t notice or experience anything unusual, though, especially if you stick to main routes and tours.

2Activities

For day hikes you can go up the Río Urique to Guadalupe Coronado village (7km) or downriver to Guapalaina (6km), both wonderful walks along the riverside dirt roads. The two- to three-day trek to Batopilas is a bigger challenge. Local guides charge around M$4000 to M$5000 for this trip. As ever in northern Mexico, check the safety situation carefully on the ground before setting out.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel El Paraíso EscondidoHOTEL$

(%635-592-74-04; escondidodeurique@hotmail.com; Principal s/n; s/d M$300/400; pa)

Squeaky clean, sponge-painted and centrally located, rooms at this friendly and cheap motel are great value. All have flat-screen TVs, hot water and air-con. Units on the first floor have heating too. To get here, turn right when you get to the main drag as you enter the town; the hotel will be on your right-hand side.

Entre AmigosCABAñAS, CAMPGROUND$

(%635-110-62-60, USA 503-434-6488; www.amongamigos.com; Principal s/n; campsites per person US$10, dm/r US$15/50; pns) S

This artful place has been hosting travelers since 1975. Homey stone cabins, aging dorms and decent campsites (BYO gear) are dotted around grounds that are dominated by fruit trees and an unbelievably gigantic cactus. No meals are offered, but there’s a good guests’ kitchen. Staff can hook you up with dependable local guides for hiking, camping or fishing and there’s an impressive library.

It’s located near the riverbank, a 10-minute walk beyond the town center. If arriving by bus, the driver will normally be happy to drop you off.

Restaurant PlazaMEXICAN$$

(%635-456-60-03; Principal s/n; meals M$100-120; h6am-9pm)

This excellent family-run restaurant offers fine food with real home-cooked flavor. The specialty is aguachile – a soupy, spicy shrimp cocktail full of onions and tomatoes served in a molcajete (traditional mortar and pestle). Don’t be fooled by the tiny front dining room – there’s a large shady courtyard in back and a sunny rooftop patio with views of the towering canyon walls.

Restaurante del CentroMEXICAN$$

(mains M$70-180; h7:30am-9pm)

The entrance of this sleepy restaurant is through a knickknack shop, but the spacious dining room is bright and pleasant, with long family-style tables. There’s a breakfast menu, a buffet lunch once a week and plenty of choices for dinner, including several well-prepared steaks. You’ll find it just off the central plaza, set back from the main drag.

8Information

The town hall on the main street has a small, efficient tourist office (%635-456-60-42; turismo.urique@gmail.com; Palacio Municipal, Principal s/n; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri).

8Getting There & Away

El Chepe stops twice daily in Bahuichivo, the closest train station to Urique. A daily bus leaves the station for Urique (M$230, 3½ hours or more) after the last train of the day arrives. Otherwise, Abarrotes El Teto, a small grocery store located at the entrance to town, doubles as a local bus stop, and is a M$50 taxi ride from the train station. The bus travels to Cerocahui (M$50, 40 minutes) and Urique (M$230, 3½ hours or more) daily at around 1:30pm; it waits for the first train from Chihuahua but does not always wait for the later one from Los Mochis.

Returning, the bus circles town and leaves Urique at 7am, stopping in Cerocahui and Bahuichivo. Hotels in Urique can arrange transfers from Bahuichivo for about M$1500. Cerocahui hotels also offer transportation: Cabañas San Isidro and Hotel Jade both charge M$1800 for a return day trip to Urique with a guide.

BORDER CROSSINGS

There are more than 40 official US–Mexico border crossing points, many open 24 hours daily. US Customs & Border Protection (www.cbp.gov) provides opening hours and estimated waiting times for drivers.

Tourists visiting Mexico must carry a passport or (for Americans entering and leaving by land or sea) a US passport card. All tourists must also obtain a Mexican tourist permit (forma migratoria para turista, FMT; or forma migratoria múltiple, FMM) on arrival, unless they are staying within the border zone and not staying over 72 hours. The border zone generally extends 20km to 30km south from the border, but also stretches as far as Puerto Peñasco in Sonora and Ensenada and San Felipe in Baja California.

Travelers taking a vehicle must purchase Mexican insurance (available at borders). If you’re heading beyond the border zone deeper into Mexico (except in Baja California), you must obtain a temporary vehicle importation permit or a Sólo Sonora permit. Each costs M$1014 and can be obtained for less if ordered way in advance and either delivered by mail or picked up at Banjército outlets around the border.

To organize the vehicle permit in advance use the Banjército website (www.banjercito.com.mx) or simply apply at one of Mexico’s 38 IITV (Importación e Internación de Vehículos) offices at northern borders and some locations past the border, including in Sonora at Agua Zarca (21km south of Nogales), in Chihuahua state 30km south of Ciudad Juárez, and in Baja California at Pichilingue (near La Paz) and Ensenada. All IITV locations are given at www.banjercito.com.mx (click on ‘Red de Módulos IITV’).

If you’re only traveling in Sonora, the Sólo Sonora program is worth considering. This allows North Americans to bring a vehicle into northwest Sonora with less hassle (reduced paperwork and no bond to deposit) and is also available from Banjército or at IITV offices. Sólo Sonora is limited to Hwy 2 between Agua Prieta and Imuris and Hwy 15D between Imuris and the checkpoint at Km 98 east of Empalme near Guaymas. To travel beyond these points, you must get a full vehicle permit; staff at the Km 98 checkpoint can authorize one pretty rapidly if you have the paperwork, and are friendly, efficient and speak English.

If you take a vehicle into Baja California, and then ship it to mainland Mexico by ferry from Pichilingue, you must get a vehicle permit before embarking your vehicle.

The main border crossings (ordered west to east) are as follows:

San Diego (California)–Tijuana (Baja California) The three border crossings here include San Ysidro–El Chaparral (24 hours), the world’s busiest border crossing. Others include the cross-border terminal at Tijuana’s international airport (24 hours, for ticketed passengers only) and the Otay Mesa crossing (24 hours).

Calexico (California)–Mexicali (Baja California) The two border crossings here are Calexico West (24 hours) and Calexico East (3am to midnight).

Lukeville (Arizona)–Sonoyta (Sonora) Best for Puerto Peñasco (6am to midnight).

Nogales (Arizona)–Nogales (Sonora) Hwy 15/15D is the main highway south to the Deconcini crossing (24 hours).

Santa Teresa crossing Some 20km west of Juárez in Chihuahua state; good for avoiding security risks near Juárez (6am to midnight).

El Paso (Texas)–Ciudad Juárez (Chihuahua) Bridge of the Americas (24 hours); Paso del Norte (24 hours); Stanton St–Avenida Lerdo (6am-midnight); and Ysleta (24 hours). Pedestrian crossings are via the bridges of Bridge of the Americas, Paso del Norte or Ysleta. To return on foot you must use Paso del Norte. Access for vehicles is via the Bridge of the Americas (Puente Córdova). Tourist permits are available at the end of the Stanton St–Avenida Lerdo bridge and Bridge of the Americas. Hwy 45D from Juárez is the principal southbound route.

Presidio (Texas)–Ojinaga (Chihuahua) From Ojinaga, it’s 225km along Hwy 16 direct to Chihuahua (24 hours).

Del Rio (Texas)–Ciudad Acuña (Coahuila) Open 24 hours.

Eagle Pass (Texas)–Piedras Negras (Coahuila) Two crossings: Bridge 1 (7am to 11pm) and Bridge 2 (24 hours).

Laredo (Texas)–Nuevo Laredo (Tamaulipas) Four crossings: Puente Internacional 1 (24 hours); Puente Internacional 2 (24 hours); Colombia Solidarity (8am to midnight); World Trade Bridge (8am to midnight). Puente Internacional 2 bypasses the city and is the safest option, connecting with Hwy 85D from Nuevo Laredo to Monterrey, from where there are good connections to elsewhere in Mexico (24 hours).

McAllen/Hidalgo/Pharr (Texas)–Reynosa (Tamaulipas) Three US towns, sitting side-by-side, serve Reynosa: Anzalduas International Bridge (6am to 10pm), Hidalgo (24 hours) and Pharr (6am to midnight).

Brownsville (Texas)–Matamoros (Tamaulipas) B&M (24 hours), Gateway (24 hours), Los Indios (6am to midnight) and Veterans International (6am-midnight).

There are plenty of cross-border bus services into the region from US cities, most involving a change of buses in a city on the US or Mexican side of the border. Given the time it can take to get through the border, it is often quicker to disembark before the border, make the crossing on foot, and pick up further transportation on the other side.

If you want to avoid staying long in Mexico’s border towns, some services will take you directly deeper into Mexico, including Phoenix–Puerto Peñasco via Sonoyta with Transportes Express; Chihuahua via Juárez from Dallas, Denver, Los Angeles and Las Vegas (among others) with Los Paisanos Autobuses; and Tufesa (www.tufesa.com.mx), which operates many cross-border buses to California and Arizona.

Many border towns rank among Mexico’s most dangerous places. The security situation can change quickly. Ciudad Juárez and Nuevo Laredo have been notorious for years and are best avoided, or at least transited during daylight hours, but you should be careful anywhere. The Sonoran border crossings were deemed pretty tranquilo at the time of research.

Areponápuchi

%635 / Pop 210 / Elev 2220m

Stretched along a 2km road near the lip of the canyon, the tiny settlement of Areponápuchi or ‘Arepo’ is just a couple of dozen houses, a church and a few hotels, the pricier of which are right on the canyon edge with mind-blowing views. This is the most touristy bit of the Copper Canyon, with its superb adventure park that allows you to take a series of seven zip-lines almost to the canyon bottom before soaring back up to the rim by cable car – a must-do half-day out.

The village itself is unremarkable, with most people just spending a night or two to visit the adventure park before continuing on El Chepe. An easy path with several good viewpoints runs along the canyon edge to the left (north) of Hotel Mirador, and several lookouts (as well as the adventure park) lie short distances off the road between here and Divisadero.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cabañas Díaz FamilyCABAñAS$

(%635-578-30-08; off Principal; cabin per person M$300; p)

This friendly family-run lodge has several comfortable cabins overlooking a peach orchard, many with lofts, and all with fireplaces and fully equipped kitchenettes. Basic but clean hotel-type rooms (M$500) are also offered. Affordable home-style meals are served in a huge dining room in the main building. Excellent guided hikes and horseback rides (four-hour outing for two by foot/horse M$350/650) are offered too.

Hotel Mansión TarahumaraHOTEL$$

(El Castillo; %635-578-30-30, Chihuahua 614-415-47-21; www.hotelmansiontarahumara.com.mx; off Principal; s/d incl breakfast from M$1026/1445, incl full board from M$1386/1938; pWs)

This castle-like hotel (complete with turrets and battlements) offers a comfortable accommodations just a few minutes up the hill from the station. Rooms on the canyon rim (commanding the highest prices) are the showstoppers, with plush beds and balconies. There’s a huge restaurant (meals M$220) plus a pool and Jacuzzi.

Hotel MiradorHOTEL$$$

(%800-552-56-45, 635-578-30-20; www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com; off Principal; s/d/ste incl full board M$3045/3997/4845; pnW)

Suspended over the canyon, this hotel’s 75 rooms (each with private balcony, beamed ceilings and somewhat dated furnishings) enjoy unbeatable views, as does the restaurant where buffet meals are served at communal tables. It’s popular with tour groups and is a bit overpriced, but it’s just about worth it for the extraordinary canyon panorama. Located on the east end of town.

Cabañas Díaz EateryMEXICAN$

(%635-578-30-08; off Principal; meals M$80-90; h7am-8pm; c)

Tasty home-cooked meals are served at long communal tables at this family-run establishment. There’s no menu, just a daily special, freshly made. Service is friendly and attentive. The most reliable place in the village to eat if you’re not staying at one of the big hotels.

oRestaurante BarrancoINTERNATIONAL$$

(%664-143-23-05; www.parquebarrancas.com; Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre; mains M$90-250; h9am-4pm; c)

Built over a gob-smacking fissure in the canyon walls – and with floor-to-ceiling windows and plexiglass flooring to prove it – the views from this restaurant are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Meals are generous with a good variety of steaks, salads and breakfast classics. Located in the main building of the adventure park.

8Getting There & Away

Most visitors arrive on El Chepe at the Posada Barrancas train station, which is within easy walking distance of the Arepo hotels and the must-see adventure park. If heading straight to the park, cross the train line and head up the hill around to the left.

Five daily buses operated by Autotransportes Noroeste connect Creel with Arepo (M$90, one hour) and San Rafael (M$10, 15 minutes) every two hours between 11:30am and 7:30pm. Buses drop off passengers either at the entrance to the adventure park or on the main highway entrance to Arepo.

WORTH A TRIP

PARQUE DE AVENTURA BARRANCAS DEL COBRE

This astonishing adventure park (Copper Canyon Adventure Park; %664-143-23-05, US 800-887-4766; www.parquebarrancas.com; M$20, zip-lining M$600-1000; h9am-5pm; c) on the canyon rim between Arepo and Divisadero includes Mexico’s longest series of tirolesas (zip-lines), suspended over some of the world’s most profound canyon scenery. The park’s seven lines take you from a height of 2400m to over halfway to the canyon floor and they include one single line that is an extraordinary 2.5km in length, the world’s longest.

A couple of heart-in-mouth wobbly bridges help you to complete the cross-canyon odyssey. Safety standards are excellent: you’re always accompanied by a team of experienced zip-liners and all participants are decked out in full safety gear. Allow at least two hours to descend to the spectacular viewpoint of Mesón de Bacajípare, as you have to travel in a group, meaning that there’s some waiting time as each person takes each line. If zip-lining isn’t your thing, you also can experience the park through a combo rappelling–rock climbing excursion (MS450) to the same viewpoint; allow at least 1½ hours to complete the journey.

The Mesón de Bacajípare viewpoint doubles as the lower station for the teleférico (cable car), which you will have to take back up; it’s included in the zip-lining and rappelling–rock-climbing prices. If you aren’t up for adventure sports but still want to see the spectacular views, you can head straight down from the canyon edge on the cable car (adult/child M$250/130;10 minutes each way, plus a 20-minute stop). Hiking (M$50 to M$200) and downhill mountain biking (M$400) also can be arranged with Tarahumara guides.

The main building houses the ticket office, a restaurant with amazing views plus a souvenir shop.

The nearest public transportation is at Arepo, an easy 1.5km walk away via a great canyon-lip-hugging trail. Divisidero is about 3km away, with equally impressive views along the way.

Divisadero

ELEV 2240M

Divisadero, a train stop without a village, is your only chance to see into the miraculous canyon if you’re just doing the train ride. All trains halt here for 20 minutes, giving you enough time to jump out, gawk, snap some pics at the viewpoint and hop back on. You can just discern a tiny fragment of the Río Urique at the bottom of the actual Copper Canyon. Ration your time carefully, as the station is also a souvenir market and spectacular food court. Gorditas (masa cakes, some made with blue corn), burritos and chiles rellenos (chilies stuffed with meat or cheese), cooked up in makeshift oil-drum stoves, are worth the stop alone. Gobble your food up quickly – the conductors aren’t supposed to allow food back onto the train. All this, together with the nearby adventure park 1.5km south, means a stay of longer than 20 minutes is a great idea.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Divisadero BarrancasHOTEL$$$

(%614-415-11-99, US 888-232-4219; www.hoteldivisadero.com; Av Mirador 4516; s/d incl full board from M$2629/3135; pnW)

Right by the canyon viewpoint, rooms are modern with a log-cabin feel, though are a bit pricey for the digs. The original units lack views (what were they thinking?), but the newer rooms (Nos 35 to 52) have astonishing vistas. At the very least, all guests can enjoy the views from the picture windows in the restaurant and lounge.

oMercado DivisideroMARKET$

(Av Mirador; dishes M$15-40; hnoon-3pm; vc)

At the foot of the train station sits the Divisidero market with stall-upon-stall of eateries selling mostly tacos, burritos and gorditas (stuffed thick tortillas) filled with a huge variety of homemade goodness like grilled steak, seasoned chicken, nopales (cactus) and even chiles rellenos (chilies stuffed with meat or cheese).

8Getting There & Away

El Chepe stops at the Divisidero station twice daily as it chugs toward Los Mochis or Chihuahua. Tickets can be purchased on board as long as there are open seats, which is the case most of the year. If traveling during the peak seasons (Semana Santa, July, August, Christmas and New Year), reserve tickets a month or more in advance.

Buses serving Areponápuchi, San Rafael and ultimately Bahuichivo also run through Divisadero, stopping below the train station – which is quicker and cheaper than continuing by train.

Creel

%635 / Pop 5300 / Elev 2345m

The Copper Canyon’s main tourism center, Creel is actually no more than a low-key highland town strung out along the railway line. It’s a very likable place, surrounded by pine forests and interesting rock formations and it boasts several good hotels and restaurants. The Tarahumara, in their multihued dress, are commonly seen about town, and there’s a consistent tourist presence here, mainly in the form of tour groups.

The area around Creel is rich in natural wonders, from waterfalls and hot springs to surreal rock formations and expansive parklands, all perfect for a day’s hike, ride or drive. Local guides offer various tours, or you can go solo on a rented bicycle, scooter or 4WD.

Creel can be very cold in winter, even snowy, and it’s none too warm at night in autumn either. In summer, the alpine air is a welcome relief from Mexico’s coastal lowland and desert heat.

Creel

1Sights

1 Museo de Arte Popular de ChihuahuaA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

23 AmigosA3

3Tarahumara ToursB2

4Umarike ExpedicionesB3

4Sleeping

5Best Western The Lodge at CreelA4

6Casa MargaritaB2

7Hotel Cascada InnB3

8Hotel La EstaciónB2

9Hotel Plaza MexicanaB3

10La Troje de AdobeA3

11Quinta MisionA5

5Eating

12La CabañaB3

13La LupitaA3

14SimpleB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

La Troje de Adobe Cafe(see 10)

7Shopping

15No Name Gift ShopB3

1Sights

Museo de Arte Popular de ChihuahuaMUSEUM

(map Google map %635-456-00-80; casaartesanias@prodigy.net.mx; Av Vías del Ferrocarril 178; adult/child M$10/5; h9am-6pm; pc)

Offers excellent exhibits with text in English on local history and Tarahumara culture and crafts. Here you’ll see gorgeous woven baskets, traditional clothing, photos and more. The gift shop also sells high-quality Tarahumara folk art.

2Activities

Seriously consider exploring the region yourself. This is prime riding country, and many attractions near Creel can be enjoyed on horseback, bicycle or scooter. This is particularly attractive as you can cover terrain the minivans can’t manage, and with significantly more peace and quiet. The whole area is a mountain-bike playground: you could just rent a bike and take in all the area’s attractions independently.

With a scooter or car, you’ve the chance to reach the bottom of the Copper Canyon with your own wheels. Grab a packed lunch in Creel first. The route is very simple: you follow the excellent paved highway southeast of town toward Guachochi. The scenery is staggering; the best section between Km 133 and Km 150 winds around the great ocher walls of the Copper Canyon itself then descends to the Humira Bridge beside the foaming waters of the Urique River. It’s the same route back, via Cusárare and Lago Arareko.

DON’T MISS

MEXICO’S HIGHEST FULL-TIME WATERFALL

Cascada de Basaseachi (%642-135-28-74) Few natural sites in Mexico boast the exquisitely pristine beauty of the country’s highest full-time waterfall, Cascada de Basaseachi, where a plume of water tumbles 246m to swimmable pools below. Basaseachi is 140km northwest of Creel, so allow a full day to visit (including three hours to walk to the falls and back). The waterfall is part of the national park of the same name, south of which is the old mining town of Maguarachi, where there are delightful hot springs.

Both sites are accessible via San Juanito, 35km north of Creel. To visit you’ll really need your own wheels or a tour with a Creel agency.

TTours

As soon as you check into a hotel (or even before that), you’ll be approached to sign up for a tour. Standard minivan tours tend to be rushed, ticking off a roster of nearby sights in a short time frame (most are half-day trips), such as canyons, waterfalls, Tarahumara settlements, hot springs and other places. Themed excursions tend to be more rewarding. Most tours require a minimum number of people, typically four. One popular trip of around five hours covers Cusárare village and waterfall, Lago Arareko and the Valley of the Frogs and Mushrooms. Typical prices are M$300 per person for half-day trips and up to M$600 for full-day trips. Other good half- or full-day destinations include the adventure park near Areponápuchi, Cascada de Basaseachi and Rekowata hot springs.

o3 AmigosTOURS

(map Google map %635-456-00-36; www.amigos3.com; Av López Mateos 46; h9am-6pm; c)

A passionate and well-run English-speaking agency, 3 Amigos has built its reputation on helping you ‘be your own guide in the Copper Canyon’; to do this it provides trail maps (M$20), rents out Rockhopper mountain bikes (M$350 per day) and scooters (M$1000 per day), and offers personalized multiple-day guided trips with drivers (US$160 per day).

The full-day self-guided mountain bike route to the Rekowata hot springs and full-day scooter ride to the canyon bottom by the Humira Bridge pass through simply mind-blowing scenery and are highly recommended. The agency is also the best source of information in town, and its website is a great place to start planning your Copper Canyon adventure. Pickup in Chihuahua and Los Mochis also available.

Tarahumara ToursTOURS

(map Google map %635-199-61-64; creeltour@hotmail.com; Callejón Parroquial s/n; h9am-7pm)

Local driver-guides offering escorted trips, from two hours to two days, at competitive rates. Prices range from M$200 per person for a two-hour tour taking in five local beauty spots to M$1000 for a two-day trip to Batopilas, not including food or accommodations. Look for the agency on the central plaza.

Umarike ExpedicionesADVENTURE

(map Google map %635-456-06-32, cell 614-4065464; www.umarike.com.mx; Av López Mateos s/n)

Mountain-biking specialist offering guided bike and hiking adventure trips from one to eight days. Rental bikes (M$500 per day), maps and information are also available.

4Sleeping

oLa Troje de AdobeINN$

(map %635-102-10-11; www.lodgeatcreel.com; Chapul-tepec s/n; r M$595-795; W)

Reminiscent of a Swiss ski lodge, this three-story inn has just seven rooms. All have a upscale boho feel, with Tarahumara designs woven throughout, handcrafted furnishings and slate tile bathrooms. Several of the rooms have mountain views too. The affable owners – one a retired anthropologist – have excellent recommendations on area sights and guides.

oHotel La EstaciónINN$$

(map %635-456-04-72; www.facebook.com/hotellaestacioncreel; Av López Mateos s/n; r incl breakfast M$1050; W)

An homage to El Chepe, every room in this movie-house-turned-inn is dedicated to a different stop along the Copper Canyon Railway. Think murals and photos, even original train doors. Each unit has an urban-chic feel, with clean lines and creature comforts like rain shower heads, fine linens and flat-screen TVs. Breakfast includes organic and homemade regional goodies.

Hotel Plaza MexicanaHOTEL$$

(map Google map %635-456-02-45; hotelesmargaritas@hotmail.com; Batista s/n; r incl half board M$850; pnW)

This second hotel from the family that runs the Casa Margarita (map Google map %635-456-00-45; Av López Mateos 11; r incl half board from M$850; pnW) is a step up from the bustling original; friendly staff welcome guests and comfortable rooms are grouped around a pretty yellow painted courtyard. Rates include good breakfasts (with eggs cooked to order) and evening meals that focus on Mexican classics.

Hotel Cascada InnHOTEL$$

(map Google map %635-456-01-51; www.hotelcascadainn.com; Av López Mateos 49; r incl breakfast M$950-1495; pnW)

This long-standing family-run spot has updated rooms that are simple and modern in style, with marble bathrooms and vast flat-screen TVs. The grounds could use some attention, but beyond the overgrown greenery this is a solid choice. Best of all, it’s located in the middle of Creel’s main drag.

Quinta MisionHOTEL$$$

(map Google map %635-456-00-21; www.quintamision.com; Av López Mateos s/n; r from M$1730; pnaW) S

Perhaps Creel’s most ecologically senstive hotel, this swanky place recycles water and uses wind and solar power. Twenty suite-sized rooms have been created from the shell of an old furniture factory, all with fridge and enough space for a small family. Check the website for regular specials.

Best Western The Lodge at CreelLODGE$$$

(map Google map %635-456-07-07; www.thelodgeatcreel.com; Av López Mateos 61; r from M$1928; pniW)

Utterly fascinating in its determination to be a Wild West hotel catering to traveler fantasies, this Best Western boasts antler chandeliers and cow skins on the wall. Its 41 rooms are spacious and smart, with fireplaces, exposed stone, sitting nooks and swing seats on their verandas. There’s a small fitness center and spa, plus numerous eating and drinking options.

5Eating

Creel has a limited choice of restaurants, though by the standards of smaller villages on the canyon floor, quality is high. For a packed lunch, grocery stores on the main drag sell tasty queso menonita (Menonite cheese) and bread.

SimpleBISTRO$

(map %635-456-08-44; www.facebook.com/simplebistrocreel; Av López Mateos 17A; mains M$45-75; h8am-10pm; W)

Big sandwiches, made-to-order burgers and a huge variety of crepes are offered at this little bistro, just steps from the central plaza. Service can be somewhat abrupt, but the food more than makes up for it. Boxed lunches offered early for those hitting the sights. On warm days, sidewalk seating is a plus.

Patros BurgerTACOS$

(%635-102-10-05; Av López Mateos; mains M$45-75; hnoon-8pm)

Despite the name, the showstoppers at this colorful place are the tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches) and tacos. Offering entirely meat-based meals, the grill sizzles all day, while rolls and tortillas wait in the kitchen, lined up to be stuffed with steak, pork and toppings. A steady flow of customers keeps the restaurant busy most of the day.

La LupitaMEXICAN$

(map Google map %635-456-10-01; Av López Mateos 44; mains M$60-110; h7am-9pm; W)

This brightly decorated thee-room space with plastic coverings on the tablecloths is run by a team of friendly locals who are well used to travelers killing time between bus and train rides. The menu includes a range of breakfasts, the full spectrum of Mexican dishes and several seafood options as well.

La CabañaINTERNATIONAL$$

(map Google map %635-456-06-64; Av López Mateos 36; mains M$60-180; h7:30am-10:30pm; W)

This Catalan-owned restaurant is one of the fancier places in town. As well as good breakfasts (M$60 to M$100), La Cabaña does a mean tampiqueña (steak accompanied by several side orders), not to mention tasty salads, grills and changing daily specials such as local trout stuffed with shrimp. Service can be painfully slow.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La Troje de Adobe CafeCOFFEE

(map %635-102-10-11; Chapultepec s/n; h4:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat; W)

This homey cafe serves up all manner of coffee drinks, Italian sodas and milkshakes to local intellectuals and visiting hipsters. Desserts and savory snacks, made with organic and local ingredients, also offered. Stays open late if there’s a crowd.

7Shopping

Shops in Creel sell Tarahumara handicrafts as well as distinctive Mata Ortiz pottery.

oNo Name Gift ShopARTS & CRAFTS

(map Av López Mateos s/n; hnoon-8pm)

A group of Tarahumaras from nearby San Ignacio sell their folk art, clothing and musical instruments at this small shop. The quality is excellent and the prices more than fair. There’s no sign. Look for it next to the Telcel office on the north end of town.

8Information

Santander (%800-501-00-00; www.santander.com.mx; Av López Mateos 3; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Has the only two ATMs in town.

Tourist Information Office (%635-456-05-06; Av López Mateos s/n; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)This office – more a desk in a public space – has brochures and maps. Staff are marginally helpful. Located on a small park, just south of the central plaza.

Unidad Medica Santa Teresita (%635-456-01-05; Parroquia s/n; h24hr) This clinic offers basic health-care services.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

If speed and convenience is the name of the game, then bus is actually the most efficient way to travel between Creel and Chihuahua, not to mention between Creel, Divisadero and Areponápuchi: trips are shorter, far cheaper and more frequent than the train.

Autotransportes Noroeste (%635-456-09-45; www.turisticosnoroeste.com; Francisco Villa s/n) Runs buses to Cuauhtémoc (M$125, 2½ hours) and Chihuahua (M$240, 4½ hours) eight times daily at 1½-hourly intervals from 6:30am until 5pm. Noroeste also offers buses to Divisadero (M$60, one hour), Areponápuchi (M$60, one hour) and San Rafael (M$90, 1¼ hours) every two hours between 10:30am and 6:30pm. The first bus to San Rafael connects with the 1pm departure from there to Bahuichivo.

Estrella Blanca/Rápidos Cuauhtémoc (%635-456-07-04; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Francisco Villa s/n) Has nine daily buses to Chihuahua (M$240, 4½ hours) via Cuauhtémoc (M$120, three hours); these leave at roughly hourly intervals between 6:30am and 4:45pm. Also has four daily departures to Bahuichivo (M$120, 2½ hours) every two hours from 10:15am to 6:15pm; they stop along the way in Divisidero (M$55, one hour), Areponápuchi (M$55, one hour) and San Rafael (M$55, 1½ hours).

Transportes Turisticos (%635-106-43-09; Av López Mateos) Runs a minibus to Batopilas (M$300, four hours) that leaves daily except Sunday from outside Hotel Los Pinos on Avenida López Mateos. The bus departs at 9am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, while on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday it departs at 7:30am. The return bus leaves Batopilas at 5am Monday to Saturday.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

There are paved roads all the way from Chihuahua to Creel and on to Divisadero, Batopilas and Bahuichivo. Motorbikes and 4WDs (with drivers only) can be rented from 3 Amigos. If you want to self-drive in the region, bring a rental car from Los Mochis or Chihuahua, but proceed with caution: some areas are controlled by drug cartels, so always check your planned route with someone who has plenty of up-to-date local knowledge before setting off.

TRAIN

El Chepe stops in Creel twice daily as it’s headed either toward Los Mochis or Chihuahua. Primera express, or first-class, train tickets are sold at Creel station (%635-456-00-15; www.chepe.com.mx; Av Tarahumara s/n) from one hour before trains depart; second-class tickets can only be purchased aboard the train.

Batopilas

%649 / Pop 1220 / Elev 580m

A charming town at the bottom of the Copper Canyon, the former silver-mining village of Batopilas is a sleepy place where everybody knows everyone and whose laid-back air works a gentle magic on all who visit. The town itself sits along 2km of its winding namesake river. A paved road into the jaw-dropping Barranca de Batopilas brings you there with relative ease and it has more twists, turns and heart-in-mouth vertical drops than any amusement-park ride.

Batopilas was founded in 1708, and peaked in prominence in the late 19th century when silver mining boomed. The climate is subtropical here year-round, which means scorching in the summer months and pleasantly warm the rest of the year.

Batopilas can be slightly rough around the edges, with marijuana fueling the local economy, but while the odd robbery has occurred, foreign tourists aren’t usually targeted, though it’s important to take local advice about out-of-town excursions.

DON’T MISS

LA BUFA CANYON VIEW

Along the scenic drive to Batopilas, about 100km south of Creel, is one of the region’s most spectacular views: La Bufa canyon (Carretera Samachíque-Batopilas; p). Dropping 1800m, it’s deep and verdant, with the Batopilas river rushing through its middle, a stunning set of roadway switchbacks leading to the bottom, and a spectacular rock formation that, squinting, looks like a massive seven-layer cake. Look for the parking area, teetering on the canyon rim, with a handful of stands with Tarahumara crafts for sale.

1Sights

Museo de BatopilasMUSEUM

(Donato Guerra s/n; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) F

Offers a good overview of the town’s history with a mock-up of a silver mine and some interesting photos and artifacts. English-speaking director Rafael Ruelas guides visitors through the exhibits, embellishing proceedings with his own anecdotes. Located on the central plaza, tourist information is available here too.

2Activities

Ruta de PlataHORSEBACK RIDING

(Silver Trail; %649-123-07-77; per day M$250; hmid-Oct)

One of northern Mexico’s best horseback rides, the Ruta de Plata is an annual event that follows the ancient mule route between Batopilas and Chihuahua. The event celebrates this historic trail and its place in mining history, with the convoy passing through some of the most beautiful, if arduous, landscapes in the country.

It takes about 2½ weeks to complete, camping along the way. The cost includes the horse and its care; BYO camping gear. Food can be purchased along the way.

Urique TrekHIKING

(with/without mule M$5000/4000)

This challenging, spectacular two- to three-day trek is one of the very best in the Copper Canyon region, taking trekkers along little-traveled trails over two canyons to the village of Urique. BYO camping gear and food. Be sure to ask about the local safety situation before setting out. For recommended guides, contact the tourist information center or ask at your hotel.

Misión Satevó HikeHIKING

(c)

One of the most popular hikes from Batopilas is to the 18th-century Misión Satevó church, in a remote spot 8km down Copper Canyon. Simply follow the Batopilas River downstream (the mission suddenly appears, framed in a forested river gorge); it’s also possible to drive there. The mission itself is only occasionally open.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Juanita’sHOTEL$

(%649-488-00-43; Degollado s/n; s/d M$300/400; na)

Basic, well-kept rooms each get their own crucifix plus a shared river-facing courtyard with a gurgling fountain. Some rooms have air-con, but all have a fan. Ask for a room off the main street, facing the river. There’s no food on offer, so you’ll have to eat out.

Riverside LodgeHOTEL$$$

(%649-427-30-97; www.coppercanyonlodges.com; Juárez s/n; hr incl breakfast US$190; pna)

For sensory overload hacienda-style, check into this labyrinthine colonial mansion, expertly and sympathetically renovated and decorated with lavish murals, oil paintings, rugs and oak furniture. All 14 rooms are individually furnished and boast vast bathrooms with claw-foot tubs. Look out for its blue domes across from the church: there’s no sign otherwise. Enter through the gate under an anchor.

Doña MicaMEXICAN$

(Plaza de la Constitución; meals M$70-100; h7am-7pm; v)

Run by Velia and her husband, this place hits the spot for hearty home-cooked meals. Served in the front room of their house, there’s usually no menu, just a few choices daily delivered in rapid-fire Spanish.

Restaurant CarolinaMEXICAN$$

(%649-456-90-96; Plaza de la Constitución; dishes M$50-145; h8am-8:30pm)

Rifles on the walls, pickles in jars and local scenes captured in paintings sum up this family-run restaurant a block beyond Batopilas’ main plaza. Choose between filling breakfasts (M$50 to M$90), delicious tacos (ask for the mango salsa) or more elaborate dishes such as freshwater trout. The whole place is inside Carolina’s home, and there are always several generations at work in the kitchen.

8Information

Tourist Information Center (map Google map %649-123-07-77; www.visitbatopilas.com; Donato Guerra s/n; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) This small tourist information center in the town museum – a table with brochures and maps, more than anything – is a good place to start your visit. Rafael Ruelas, the director of the museum, doubles as the director of tourism. Friendly and helpful, he often is on hand to give recommendations and tips.

8Getting There & Away

The paved road to Batopilas from Creel is one of Mexico’s most scenic drives, and most drivers will stop at the incredible Mirador La Bufa for some mind-blowing views.

Minibuses (M$300, four hours) run by Transportes Turisticos leave from Creel every morning except Sunday outside Hotel Los Pinos on Avenida López Mateos. They depart at 9am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, while on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday they depart at 7:30am. Buses back to Creel leave from outside the church in Batopilas every morning except Sunday at 5am sharp.

Two-day van tours from Creel (normally a four-person minimum) cost from US$1330 per person. If you have your own wheels, it’s simple to visit Batopilas independently – now that the new road is complete you don’t even need a 4WD.

A back road (high-clearance 4WD needed), affording canyon-lip views, runs from Batopilas to Urique, fording the Río Urique (passable November to April). Check the security situation before heading out on this route, which is also perfect for mountain biking.

Cusárare

%635 / Pop 200

About 25km from Creel is the quiet Tarahumara village of Cusárare. Spread out along 2km of dirt road, it features an 18th-century mission church with impressive Tarahumara murals and a museum with an exceptional collection of colonial religious paintings. Nearby is a set of like-named falls, perfect for a hike, swim and several selfies.

THE TARAHUMARA

A fascinating part of canyon life is the presence of one of Mexico’s most distinctive indigenous groups, the Tarahumara, who live in caves and small houses across the countryside here. Most easily identifiable are the women, dressed in colorful skirts and blouses and often carrying infants on their backs. They sell beautiful hand-woven baskets and carved wooden dolls and animals at ridiculously low prices at tourist sites around the sierra. Most men now wear modern clothes like jeans instead of the traditional loincloth, but both sexes still often walk in huaraches – sandals made from tire tread and strips of leather.

The Tarahumara remain largely an enigma. Even their name is debated. Many believe it was originally ‘ralamuli,’ which was Hispanicized to ‘Rarámuri’ and evolved to ‘Tarahumara,’ the term by which they usually refer to themselves. Contrary to popular belief, the Spanish incursion did not force the Tarahumara into the canyons: they were here when the first Jesuits arrived in 1608.

There are two main Tarahumara groups: the Alta (high) and the Baja (low), with whom outside contact was made by Jesuit priests from higher-altitude Parral and lower-altitude El Fuerte respectively. Culture and language are radically different between the Altas and Bajas, and because of long-term isolation, every community has a slightly different culture and language. No one even knows how many Tarahumara exist. Estimates vary between 50,000 and 120,000.

Rarámuri means ‘those who run fast’ – and these people are most famous for running long distances swiftly, sometimes up to 20 hours without stopping. They used their aptitude for running to hunt deer by bow and arrow as little as a generation ago. The Copper Canyon area even has its own annual ultramarathon at Urique.

But a better cultural insight into the Tarahumara is their sense of fairness. ‘Korima’ is a custom where someone who has a good crop is ‘blessed’ and obliged to share his good fortune with others. Another tradition is the tesgüinada, a raucous social gathering at which Tarahumara relax their natural reserve and celebrate communal work and festivals with plenty of tesgüino, a potent corn beer.

Even these traditionally isolated people have been influenced by incomers, and many have adopted a type of Catholicism. However, their take on Christianity and Christian festivals is often idiosyncratic – regularly accompanied by drumming and lots of tesgüino.

But the Tarahumara have maintained their lifestyle despite incursions of conquistadors, missionaries, railways, drug gangs and tourism. They have one word to refer to all non-Tarahumara people: chabochi, which means ‘with spider-webbing on the face,’ a reference to bearded Spanish colonists. The majority continue to live a subsistence life in the remote Sierra Madre Occidental countryside.

The Tarahumara are also generally materially poor, and their communities have some serious health problems: there are high rates of infant mortality, malnutrition and teenage pregnancy, with some of the little relief coming from Catholic missions.

1Sights & Activities

Misión CusárareCHURCH

(Cusárare s/n)

This mission was built by Jesuits in 1741 as a religious meeting place as well as a school to teach the locals Spanish and different trades. In 1826 Franciscan friars added side altars, a choir loft and an adobe bell tower; the last collapsed in 1969, taking down a corner of the church with it. The church was repaired and restored in the early 1970s, adding striking Tarahumara patterned murals. A new stone bell tower was built too.

Museo LoyolaMUSEUM

(Cusárare s/n; M$20)

Sitting alongside the Cusárare Mission church, this museum holds an exceptional collection of colonial religious paintings, representing 13 scenes from the Virgin Mary’s life. The paintings, created by Miguel Correa in 1713, were brought to the Mission by Franciscan Friars in the early 1800s. The museum is only open occasionally. However, the caretaker – Doña Rosa – will gladly open shop. She lives in the blue house just downhill from the Diconsa community store.

Cascada CusárareHIKING

(Hwy 25 Km 112; M$25; h8am-5pm; c)

This lovely 30m waterfall is perfect if you’re looking to take a short hike. A 3km walk from the road, the trail is shady and very beautiful, offering the chance of a dip along the way. To get here, head south on the highway 400m past the Cusárare turnoff; at Km 112, turn right at the ‘Cascada de Cusárare’ sign, which leads to a trail that follows a bubbling stream, then passes through a sweeping highland valley to the falls.

There are two road signs to the trailhead. If you’re driving, go past the first one at Km 108 – the road is too rough unless you have a 4WD vehicle.

8Getting There & Away

Creel is the closest train stop if traveling on El Chepe. Just north of Creel’s train station, travelers can catch buses, which will drop you at Cusarare’s highway entrance – take any bus with signage for ‘Guacochi.’ From the highway, it’s a 1km walk into town. Many tours include a stop here too. Otherwise arrange for a cab driver to take you there and back, with an hour or so to visit the church and museum.

San Ignacio de Arareko

%635 / Pop 4000

Four kilometers southeast of Creel is the Tarahumara ejido (communal farming district) of San Ignacio, which spreads over some 200 sq km and is home to about 4000 people living in caves and small houses among farmlands, small canyons and pine forests. Here you’ll find the photogenic 18th-century San Ignacio Mission Church, several spectacular rock formations and the scenic Lake Arareko. A bit further, but still within the ejido reach, are the popular Rekowata hot springs. Visitors to San Ignacio are charged admission (M$25). The cost includes access to most of the ejido’s sights – be sure to keep your ticket handy!

1Sights

oValle de los MonjesNATURAL FEATURE

(Valley of the Monks; San Ignacio s/n; h24hr; c)

Around 7km east of San Ignacio’s town center, through verdant farmland, is the Valle de los Monjes. A spectacular outcrop of vertical red rock formations that inspire its Tarahumara name Bisabírachi, meaning ‘Valley of the Erect Penises,’ it is well worth exploring and less visited than the Valle de las Ranas y los Hongos (Valley of Frogs and Mushrooms; San Ignacio s/n; c). Admission (M$15) is occasionally charged.

Lago ArarekoLAKE

(Hwy 25 Km 8)

Meaning ‘Horseshoe’ in Rarámuri, the peaceful waters of this U-shaped lake reflect the surrounding pines and rock formations. Paddleboats can be rented along the lakeshore (M$50) for exploring and finding good swimming spots. Access to the lake is included in the San Ignacio admission cost (M$25); there also are viewpoints of the lake along the Creel–Cusárare highway. Located about 8km south of Creel.

A visit to this Lago Arareko can be easily combined with stops at Valle de las Ranas y Los Hongos as well as Valle de los Monjes – a perfect day trip.

2Activities

Aguas Termales RekowataTHERMAL BATHS

(Rekowata Hot Springs; Hwy 77 Km 7; M$25; h9am-5pm; c)

These hot springs, averaging about 37°C (98.6°F), are channeled into modern-day pools near the bottom of the Barranca de Tarárecua. To get here, follow a signposted dirt road for 11km from the Creel–Divisidero Hwy to the parking lot. From there, it’s a 3km hike down a rough cobblestone track to the blissfully warm bathing pools. Vans (M$70 return) shuttle visitors from the parking lot; otherwise it’s a beautiful walk down and a sweaty one back up. Weekends get busy.

There’s also a superb mountain bike trail to Rekowata. This route initially takes the Cusárare road, but then heads off road down tracks to the right (south) near San Ignacio. You pass through a scenic river valley then an utterly astonishing canyon viewpoint before beginning a steep descent to Rekowata. It’s a full-day return-trip ride; 3 Amigos can provide a map.

Admission to the hot springs is included in the entrance fee to San Ignacio ejido – be sure to save your ticket!

8Getting There & Away

Most people visit here on a tour, but it’s fairly easy to walk, cycleor taxi from Creel to San Ignacio’s northern entrance (just outside town, past the cemetery); from there it’s 1.6km to the Misión San Ignacio and Valle de las Ranas y los Hongos on a good dirt road. Buses headed to Guacochi can drop you at San Ignacio’s highway entrance, but you’re still 1.6km away from its main attractions.

Northwest Mexico

The dramatic beaches of the Sea of Cortez and the abundant marine life, including some 40 sea lion colonies and 27 species of whale and dolphin, are magnets for visitors: Puerto Peñasco, Bahía de Kino and San Carlos all beckon travelers. The region, encompassing Sonora and northern Sinaloa, still bursts with homespun character. The strains of norteña (country) music and the inviting smell of carne asada (grilled beef) waft past cowboy-hatted locals on the streets.

The perfunctory towns and cities won’t detain you long: Los Mochis harbors little of interest except as a jumping-off point for the spectacular train ride through Copper Canyon or the ferry to Baja. The state capital, Hermosillo, is a vast and faceless place with little cultural interest. The glorious exception is Álamos, a colonial jewel surrounded by peaks of the Sierra Madre Occidental, which is replete with atmospheric hotels and restaurants and well worth a side trip.

Sonora

Mexico’s second-largest state (neighboring Chihuahua is first) has remarkable cultural and ecological diversity within its 180,000 sq km. It boasts miles and miles of gorgeous beaches, desert moonscapes in El Pinacate Reserve, near Puerto Peñasco, and everything in between. It’s still undiscovered by mass tourism, but the word is definitely getting out for Mexican travelers – beach towns like San Carlos and Bahía de Kino get packed with weekend warriors from Hermosillo and beyond – and those near the US border get a steady stream of American ‘snowbirds’ (retired North American citizens who head south for winter). Even so, Sonora sees far fewer travelers, especially foreigners, than its myriad attractions and drop-dead beauty would suggest. But hey, who’s complaining?

Puerto Peñasco

%638 / Pop 65,200

Until the 1920s, ‘Rocky Point,’ as Americans affectionately call this Sea of Cortez coastal town, was just that: a landmark on military maps and no more. Its location alongside one of the driest parts of the Sonoran Desert deterred all would-be settlers bar intrepid fishers until Prohibition gave the fledgling community an unexpected boost. When the global economy nosedived in the 1930s, Peñasco enjoyed a (very) lengthy siesta, until state investment and a desalination plant kick-started the local economy in the early 1990s. The result has been a boom in both development and population, and now this beach town has become the seaside destination Arizona never had.

The historic core – El Malecón (Old Port) – hugs the rocky point itself, while just north sits the pleasant beach, Playa Bonita. Heading west is Sandy Beach, home to a sprawling stretch of condo-hotel resorts, expensive restaurants and golf courses carved out of the desert.

1Sights

oIsla San JorgeISLAND

(c)

Also known as Bird Island, Isla San Jorge is one of the best boat excursions in northern Mexico. This rocky island 40km southeast of Peñasco is home to nesting seabirds and also a large community of sea lions (which are curious by nature and will swim alongside boats). Dolphins are often spotted en route, while whales (fin, gray, killer and pilot) are sometimes encountered between October and April. Full-day cruises are offered by Del Mar Charters (%638-383-28-02, US 520-407-6054; www.delmarcharters.com; Calle Pelícano s/n; h7am-6pm; c).

Playa BonitaBEACH

(Calle 13; pc)

Puerto Peñasco’s main town beach, Playa Bonita is a gorgeous swath of tawny sand with small waves and views of the rocky landscape in the distance. Vendors hawk everything from mangos to jewelry, and beach shade, including chairs, can be had for $20 per day. For action beyond sand castle making, banana boat rides (US$6 per 12 minutes) and jet-ski rentals (US$35 per 30 minutes) are available too.

CEDOVISITOR CENTER

(Intercultural Center for the Study of Desert & Oceans; %638-382-01-13, US 520-320-5473; www.cedo.org; Blvd Las Conchas s/n; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; c) SF

CEDO is a wonderful place to learn about Rocky Point’s fascinating desert-meets-sea ecosystem. Dedicated to the conservation of the upper Gulf of California and surrounding Desierto Sonorense, CEDO has a visitor center where it hosts free natural-history talks in English at 2pm Tuesdays and 4pm Saturdays. CEDO also runs a fascinating program of nature tours, some in collaboration with local cooperatives.

Tours include tidepool walks (US$15), kayaking on Morúa estuary (US$50), snorkeling trips to Isla San Jorge (US$115) and excursions to El Pinacate Biosphere Reserve with an English-speaking naturalist (US$60).

Cholla BayBEACH

(La Choya; c)

Located about 12km west of Puerto Peñasco, Cholla Bay is a fishing village turned expat enclave with sand roads and quiet, calm beaches. At low tide, the water recedes dramatically, revealing oysters and other shellfish. Come with a shovel and bucket to collect dinner.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

GRAN DESIERTO DE ALTAR

About 30km from Puerto Peñasco are the lunar landscapes of El Pinacate, one of the driest places on earth. This remote, spectacular 7145-sq-km reserve (El Pinacate; %638-383-14-33, 638-108-00-11; http://elpinacate.conanp.gob.mx; Carretera Sonoyta–Peñasco Km 72; M$60; h8am-5pm) is a Unesco World Heritage site and contains ancient eroded volcanoes, giant craters, petrified lava flows, 400-plus ash cones and the continent’s largest concentration of active sand dunes. Wildlife includes pronghorn antelope (the fastest land mammal in the Americas), bighorn sheep, pumas, reptiles and bountiful birdlife. There’s an excellent, highly informative solar-powered visitor center, interpretive hiking trails and two campgrounds.

The extraordinary landscapes here are so unusual that Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin used this region in the 1960s to prepare themselves for their Apollo 11 moon landing.

Today over 70km of dirt roads (4WD only in parts) penetrate the reserve. Visitors must register to climb the 1190m Cerro del Pinacate volcano.

The visitor center is about 8km west of Km 72 on Hwy 8 (27km from Puerto Peñasco). The craters are accessed by a separate turnoff further north at Km 52 on Hwy 8.

CEDO in Puerto Peñasco organizes excellent tours to the reserve: good walking shoes are recommended, and note that there’s no water or electricity available anywhere in the reserve, except at the visitor center.

2Activities

Fishing, snorkeling, diving, kayaking and sunset cruises are all popular. There are extensive rock pools to explore at low tide, and trips around the estuary and beyond to the remarkable Reserva El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar can be set up by the likes of the CEDO.

4Sleeping

El Malecón (Old Port) has agreeable down-to-earth options – though it’s slim pickings for tight budgets, unless you’re up for camping. All the mega-hotel complexes are at Sandy Beach, to the northwest. Note that Spring Break in Peñasco is popular with US college students, so book early if com-ing then.

Concha Del MarCAMPGROUND$

(%638-113-04-67; Calle 19 No 680; campsite M$200; pW)

Sitting on a huge empty lot right on Playa Bonita, this campground offers clean bathrooms, wi-fi, laundry facilities and even 24-hour security. BYO tent or buy the basics at SAMS Club or Bodega Aurrera on your way into town. During high season, arrive mid-week for an oceanfront site. Reservations not accepted.

oDream Weaver InnAPARTMENT$$

(%638-125-60-79; www.facebook.com/dreamweaverinn; Calle Pescadores 3, El Malecón; apt US$65-95; aW#)

This welcoming and well-cared-for inn has excellent apartment-style units, each lovingly decorated with local handicrafts in true Mexican style. Each unit has cooking facilities and some have sea views. It feels like a home away from home. Located near the Old Port’s main plaza, with restaurants, shops and traveling oompah bands just steps away. Kid and pet friendly.

Hospedaje MulegeGUESTHOUSE$$

(%638-383-29-85, US 760-235-4870; www.hospedajemulege.com; cnr Av Circunvalación & Calle 16 de Sepiembre, El Malecón; r incl breakfast US$75; pnaW)

It’s all about hospitality and the personal touch here at one of Puerto Peñasco’s most popular guesthouses. Lupita and Israel preside over guests with real pride to show them the flip side to the town’s mega-resorts in this friendly and unpretentious Old Port villa. The seven rooms are comfortable and homey, some with spectacular ocean views.

5Eating

Max’s CafeCAFE$

(%638-383-10-11; www.maxsmx.com; Centro Comercial La Marina, Calle 13 s/n; dishes US$5-15; h8am-10pm; Wc)

Max’s serves up solid Mexican eats, hamburgers and sandwiches in a setting reminiscent of a cozy railcar. Located steps from Playa Bonita, it’s a convenient place to take a break from the sun, or do like local expats do and stop here for a huge American-style breakfast. Cash only.

The Blue MarlinSEAFOOD$$

(El Marlin Azul; %638-383-65-64; www.facebook.com/pg/thebluemarlinrestaurant; Ignacio Zaragoza s/n, El Malecón; dishes M$50-250; h11am-10pm Thu-Tue)

At the swankier end of the dining spectrum, the Blue Marlin specializes in seafood, serving everything from simple fish tacos to hearty coconut shrimp meals. Service can be painfully slow, but the wait is worth it. Seating is indoors in a small nautical-themed dining room or outside on a pleasant street-front patio.

La CurvaMEXICAN$$

(%638-383-34-70; www.facebook.com/pg/RestaurantLaCurva.puertopenasco; Blvd Kino 100; mains M$150-280; h8am-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; c)

Set in the middle of town, this restaurant is the opposite of a glitzy beach restaurant (and you’ll barely see a wristband in the whole place). Huge plates of traditional Mexican cooking are served up in a simple and unfussy environment; try the amazing mariscada (seafood platter) or the carne asada (grilled steak).

Kaffee HausCAFE$$

(%638-388-10-65; Blvr Benito Juarez 216B; breakfasts M$80-110, lunches M$80-140; h7am-3:30pm Mon-Sat, 7am-2pm Sun; Wc)

A long-standing favorite, this local institution remains an excellent choice, with its enormous breakfast served daily until 2pm, great house burger and superb apple strudel, to name just a few menu highlights. It’s fearsomely popular, however, and you may have to line up to get a table at peak times. Portions are huge, so consider sharing a plate. Cash only.

oChef Mickey’s PlaceINTERNATIONAL$$$

(%638-388-95-00; Plaza del Sol 4, Blvd Freemont; mains M$180-350; h1-10pm)

Eponymous chef Mickey has been cooking up a storm here for years, and you’ll be hard pressed to find better quality and innovation elsewhere in town. Steak, seafood and fresh fish dominate the eclectic menu in a sleek upscale setting. Mickey’s is beloved by the local expat community, so reservations are a good idea.

7Shopping

Tequila FactoryFOOD & DRINKS

(%638-388-06-06; www.tequilafactory.mx; cnr Blvd Benito Juárez & Calle 12; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun) F

Despite it’s name, this family-owned shop doesn’t produce any tequila on site, but it does offer informative and fun presentations on tequila production. Tastings of its artisanal tequilas are part of the experience (and you can always try before you buy in the shop). The flavored tequilas and oak-aged Añejo are favorites.

8Information

Convention & Visitors Bureau (%800-552-28-20, 638-388-04-44; www.cometorockypoint.com; Av Coahuila 444; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) is a helpful tourist office located on the 2nd floor of Plaza Pelícanos. Its English-speaking staff can assist with booking accommodations and tours and its website has lots of useful information about the town and surrounding areas.

Rocky Point 360 (www.rockypoint360.com) is another useful online resource.

8Getting There & Away

Puerto Peñasco International Airport (Aeropuerto Mar de Cortés; %638-383-60-97; www.aeropuertomardecortes.com; Libramiento Caborca-Sonoita 71) is 35km east of town. At the time of writing there were only infrequent chartered flights.

A handful of shuttle-van services operate between Puerto Peñasco and Arizona, including Transportes Express (%638-383-36-40, US 602-442-6670; www.transportes-express.com; cnr Lázaro Cárdenas & Sinaloa), which runs to/from Phoenix four times daily (US$50, four hours).

Albatros (%638-388-08-88, 800-624-66-18; www.albatrosautobuses.com; Blvd Juárez, btwn Calles 29 & 30) runs six daily buses to Hermosillo (M$370, 5½ hours), six to Nogales (M$320, six hours), three to Guaymas (M$440, eight hours), five to Navojoa ($625, 12 hours) and two to Álamos ($665, 13 hours). Autobuses de la Baja California (ABC; %800-025-02-22, 664-104-74-00; www.abc.com.mx; cnr Constitución & Bravo), one block north of Blvd Juárez, heads to Tijuana (M$555, eight hours) four times daily.

8Getting Around

Travelers without a car, beware: there is no reliable local public transportation around town. Bufalo (%638-388-99-99; ventas_rentacars@hotmail.com; cnr Freemont & Chiapas; h8am-8pm) rents out new-ish well-maintained cars, starting at M$1000 per day.

Taxis cost around M$30 for short rides around town. Beyond Puerto Peñasco, cabs cost M$60 from the Old Port to the Sandy Beach resorts and M$150 to Cholla Bay – and can be double that or more coming back.

Bahía de Kino

%662 / Pop 6050

Laid-back Bahía de Kino is a gorgeous stretch of beach paradise named after Padre Eusebio Kino, who established a small mission here for the indigenous Seri people in the 17th century. The old part, Kino Viejo, is a rough-and-ready Mexican fishing village that fans out along the lengthy main beach. By contrast Kino Nuevo, a couple of kilometers to the north, is a far smarter place with nice homes and beachfront restaurants; it is the destination of choice for many ‘snowbirds’. Kino Nuevo also boasts the best strip of beach, a seemingly endless swath of pristine golden sand. High season is from November to March; at other times, you may find yourself blissfully alone by the water.

1Sights

Isla del TiburónISLAND

This mountainous island, Mexico’s largest, lies 3km off the coast from Punta Chueca. It was once a Seri homeland, but was depopulated when the island was declared a nature reserve in 1963. Today it’s administered by the Seri tribal authorities. An intact desert ecosystem, it’s home to bighorn sheep and large colonies of seabirds. There’s good snorkeling around its coast. For a permit and guide to the island, ask at the Consejo de Ancianos at the entrance to Punta Chueca.

Museo de los SerisMUSEUM

(Museo Comca’ac; %662-212-64-19; cnr Av Mar de Cortez & Progreso, Kino Nuevo; M$10; h9am-6pm Wed-Sun; pc)

This small but well-curated museum displays an interesting collection of artifacts, handicrafts and panels about Seri culture and history, including videos on the tradition of basket weaving. Signage is in Spanish only. On weekends, Seri women sell their artesania (arts and crafts) and traditional food items at the museum entrance, sometimes accompanied by music and dance performances too.

Punta ChuecaAREA

This village is home to the Seri people, one of Mexico’s smallest indigenous groups (fewer than 1000 people). The Seri are known for their handicrafts, including their highly regarded baskets and carvings from ironwood. Look for Soccaaix, a small shop near the entrance to town, for high-quality items; ask for Doña Guillermina if it’s closed. A paved road leads to the settlement, 34km north of Bahía de Kino.

La Casa del MarVISITOR CENTER

(%662-366-04-65; cnr Bilbao & Esqueda, Kino Nuevo; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun) F

This visitor center services the 900-island Área de Protección de Flora y Fauna Islas del Golfo de California, a biodiverse protected area of islands in the Sea of Cortez. It has very informative displays in Spanish and English, and offers assistance in obtaining permits for visiting the islands (M$50 per person, per island, per day).

4Sleeping

Eco Bay HotelHOTEL$$

(%662-242-04-91; www.ecobayhotel.com; cnr Guaymas & Tampico, Kino Viejo; r/ste incl breakfast from M$900/1500; pnaWs)

Spacious rooms surround a small pool and parking lot at this good-value and friendly option a few blocks from the beach in Kino Viejo. There are spotless bathrooms, a social atmosphere in the bar area (though music can be loud if your room is nearby) and a decent cooked breakfast is included.

Casa TortugaAPARTMENT$$$

(%662-173-03-01; www.facebook.com/RentCasa TortugaBahiaKino; Av Mar de Cortez 2645, Kino Nuevo; apt US$95-115; pnaW)

Beachfront Casa Tortuga has three atmospheric, very comfortable apartments: Pelican, with its stunning ocean-facing, palapa-roofed terrace (complete with sunbeds, barbecue and table for outdoor dining) is particularly recommended. There are complimentary kayaks, and the owners sometimes take guests out in a boat to Isla Pelícano for bird-watching. Prices increase slightly in the summer months.

Casablanca InnHOTEL$$$

(%662-242-07-77; www.facebook.com/Casablancakinobay; cnr Av Mar de Cortez & Santander, Kino Nuevo; r incl breakfast M$1500-1800; pnaW)

This beautifully cared-for hotel is a real find. With rain showers, tiled floors, white painted walls and attractive wooden furniture, the rooms are both stylishly minimalist and high quality. Don’t miss breakfast at the on-site restaurant; tasty dishes and good service makes it a popular spot for expats.

5Eating

Seafood rules this little town. You’ll find most restaurants along the main drag in Kino Nuevo.

Restaurant DoritaCAFE$

(%662-252-03-49; cnr Blvr Kino & Salina Cruz, Kino Viejo; breakfast M$55, mains M$60-95; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun; c)

Dorita and her daughter turned their front room into a restaurant more than 20 years ago and have been kicking out the best breakfast around since. Omelette rancheros (a twist on huevos rancheros, replacing fried eggs with an omelette) is the specialty.

oEl Pargo RojoSEAFOOD$$

(%662-242-02-05; Av Mar de Cortez 1426, Kino Nuevo; mains M$120-250; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; c)

This thatch-roofed shack is the most popular place in Kino Nuevo and is often full of regulars enjoying delicious fish dishes and hearty Mexican breakfasts. The camarones rellenos (stuffed shrimp) are a real treat.

8Getting There & Around

Buses to Hermosillo (M$150, two hours) run roughly hourly from the bus station about halfway along the strip – the white lumbering buses with ‘Costa de Hermosillo’ signage are impossible to miss. You can use these services to get around (local rides cost M$10) as there’s no other public transportation. Taxis cost M$50 for a ride of up to 5km, and more after dark.

San Carlos

%622 / Pop 7000

With its striking desert-and-bay landscape, the low-key beach retreat of San Carlos feels a universe apart from its gritty port neighbors. It’s presided over by some dramatic hills – notably the majestic twin peaks of Cerro Tetakawi – that glow an impressive red-earthed hue as the sun descends.

San Carlos’ beaches are a mix of dark sand and pebbles. Head beyond the busy and built-up central strip to remoter and quieter Playa Algodones (famed for its role in the movie Catch-22) and you’ll find white sands and turquoise water on one of the best beaches in northern Mexico.

8Orientation

San Carlos, spread-eagled over some 8km, is not pedestrian friendly. Most amenities are on the 2.5km stretch of Blvd Beltrones. Head right at the intersection by the Oxxo store on the north end of the Beltrones strip to get out to Playa Algodones (6km northwest), or straight on for Marina San Carlos (500m west).

1Sights

oPlaya Los AlgodonesBEACH

(Hwy 124 Km 19; parking M$30)

Named for the cotton-ball-like dunes on the south end of the beach, Playa Los Algodones is arguably the most beautiful beach in northern Mexico. The sand is fine and white, the water blue and calm, and the view is of dramatic mountains. High season can bring crowds and traveling oompah bands – join the party or head north along the sand for a patch of peace.

Isla San Pedro NolascoDIVE SITE

(Seal Island)

2Activities

Gorgeous coves, as well as a nearby sea lion colony on Isla San Pedro Nolasco, make snorkeling and kayaking top activities. Sportfishing also is popular: April to September are best for big fish and there are several annual tournaments.

Enrike’s AdventuresOUTDOORS

(%622-130-73-38; http://sancarlosadventures.com; Blvd Beltrones s/n; tours US$35-45; h9am-5pm; c)

Personalized and bilingual service is offered on a variety of excursions, including hiking Cerro Tetakawi and paddleboarding or kayaking in the area’s bays. Tours vary from two to five hours, depending on the destination. Gear rental – bikes, paddleboards, kayaks and snorkel gear – is also available.

4Sleeping

San Carlos is geared toward visitors from north of the border – especially ‘snowbirds’ – making budget places tough to find and condos a popular option.

Playa Blanca Condo-HotelCONDO$$$

(%622-227-01-00; www.playablancasancarlosrentals.com.mx; Paseo Mar Bermejo s/n; apts from US$155; paWs)

The biggest building on the best beach around, this 14-story complex houses updated one- to three-bedroom condos with spectacular views of Playa Los Algodones and the surrounding bays. Units are spacious and individually decorated, each with a private balcony. There’s a well-kept pool, beachfront palapas and a restaurant too. It’s located outside of town, so consider renting a car to explore beyond the beach.

La Posada CondominiumsAPARTMENT$$$

(%622-226-10-31; www.posadacondominiums.com; Blvd Beltrones Km 11.5; apts from M$2000; pnaWs)

Right on the beach (you can hear the waves lapping on the shore at night), these attractive studio, one- and two-bed condos all enjoy fine sea vistas from their generous balconies. All boast fully equipped kitchens, attractive living rooms and all mod cons. They’re also a short walk from the Marina San Carlos. Rates drop significantly at quiet times of year.

5Eating & Drinking

oBoye’s Burger JointBURGERS$

(%622-226-03-69; www.facebook.com/boyeburgers; Blvd Beltrones s/n; burgers M$100-125; hnoon-10pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun & Thu; Wc)

Huge juicy burgers, fresh and made to order, are served at this hopping restaurant. You’ll find 15 varieties – everything from classic to pineapple – and even ‘light’ burgers served with iceberg lettuce and no bread. Wash it all down with a thick Oreo shake. Popular with hungry locals and expats missing the States.

Soggy Peso Bar & GrillSEAFOOD$$

(%622-125-72-38; Playa Algodones; mains M$85-240; h11am-sunset; c)

With sand floors and families dining in their swimsuits, this lively and popular seafood restaurant where fresh fish and seafood are king makes for a fun and informal lunch. It’s on the north end of San Carlos’ best beach and also functions as a popular bar, serving up strong batches of margaritas. Live music starts around 5pm every day but Monday.

La Palapa GriegaMEXICAN, GREEK$$

(%622-226-18-88; Blvd Beltrones Km 11.5; mains M$95-200; h11am-9pm; c)

Right on the beach, this long-standing Greek-owned restaurant offers a memorable setting for a meal. Try a sampler (hummus, taramasalata, baba ghanoush), a Greek salad or freshly caught local seafood. At night, eat under neon blue lights.

4ever Happy HourCLUB

(%622-165-61-22; www.facebook.com/4everhappyhour; Blvd Beltrones s/n; cover M$50; h9pm-3am Fri-Sun)

A pumping dance club with an often packed rooftop bar, this is the place to get your groove (and drink) on. Especially popular with the 20-something crowd from Guaymas.

8Getting There & Around

Buses from Guaymas run as far as Marina San Carlos; local rides within San Carlos cost M$9. Taxis charge M$50 to M$200 in the San Carlos area.

Long-distance buses will drop you at either the Grupo Estrella Blanca (%800-507-55-00, 622-222-12-71; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Calle 14 No 96) or Tufesa (%622-222-54-53; www.tufesa.com.mx; Blvd García López 927) terminals in Guaymas. From Grupo Estrella Blanca, walk north on Calle 14 to Blvd García López and catch the white San Carlos bus (M$14, every 30 minutes). From Tufesa, cross the road to catch the same bus. A taxi from either terminal to San Carlos is M$200.

The nearest airport (%622-221-05-11; Carr a San Jose de Guaymas Km 4.5) is 8km north of Guaymas. At the time of research, there were no commercial flights from the US or Canada; only commuter flights to Hermosillo, Los Mochis and Loreto were offered.

Ferry service to and from Santa Rosalía in Baja California leave Guaymas three times a week, taking passengers and vehicles across in a 10-hour overnight trip.

Álamos

%647 / Pop 9400 / Elev 432m

One of the most architecturally rich towns in northwest Mexico, Álamos is a cultural oasis. Sheltered in the forested foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental, its hushed cobblestone streets and imposing colonial buildings hint at a fascinating history, much of it to do with Álamos’ role as Mexico’s northernmost silver mining town. The town is both a national historical monument and one of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos (magical villages).

Álamos’ charms have proven irresistible to many US retirees and creative types who, since the ’50s, have snapped up decaying colonial buildings to renovate into second homes and hotels. These well-heeled expats comprise a small but influential segment of Álamos’ population, and their establishments dominate the colonial center of town.

More bizarrely, Álamos and vicinity is where most of the world’s jumping beans – beans that ‘jump’ due to the presence of a larva inside – originate. Look for them sold around town.

History

The area’s silver mines were discovered around La Aduana (10km west of Álamos) in the 16th century. Álamos itself was founded in the 1680s, probably as a dormitory suburb for La Aduana’s wealthy colonists. Despite hostilities from the indigenous Yaqui and Mayo, Álamos boomed into one of Mexico’s principal 18th-century mining centers.

During Mexico’s 19th-century turmoils, Álamos was attacked repeatedly: by French invaders, by factions seeking its silver wealth and by the fiercely independent Yaqui. The Mexican Revolution took a further toll, and by the 1920s most mines were abandoned and Álamos was practically a ghost town.

In 1948 Álamos was reawakened by William Levant Alcorn, a Pennsylvania dairy farmer who bought the Almada mansion on Plaza de Armas and converted it into Hotel Los Portales. Other norteamericanos followed, restoring crumbling mansions to their former glory. Recently they’ve been joined by wealthy Mexicans, seduced by the relaxed ambience and benign winter climate, creating something of a real estate boom, which is still visible in the multiple realtor signs you see around town today.

1Sights

Álamos is ideal for sauntering around and soaking up one of Mexico’s most idyllic colonial centers, with perhaps a break at one of its atmospheric restaurants.

El MiradorVIEWPOINT

(Camino al Mirador s/n; pc)

This magnificent lookout tops a hill on Álamos’ southeastern edge, affording sweeping views of the town and its mountainous surroundings. It’s accessible by steps (370 of them) from the Arroyo Agua Escondida, two blocks down Obregón from Victoria, and is best climbed first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the light is better and the heat not so fierce.

Parroquia de la Purísima ConcepciónCHURCH

(Plaza de Armas; h8am-7pm; c) F

Álamos’ parish church is the tallest building in town. It was built between 1786 and 1804 and its altar rail, lamps, censers and candelabra were all originally fashioned from silver, but were melted down in 1866 on the orders of General Ángel Martínez after he booted French troops out of Álamos. Seven or so subterranean passageways between the church and Álamos mansions – probably escape routes for rich families in times of attack – were blocked off in the 1950s.

Museo Costumbrista de SonoraMUSEUM

(%647-428-00-53; Plaza de Armas; M$10; h9am-6pm Wed-Sun)

This well-done museum of Sonoran customs has extensive exhibits (all in Spanish) on the history and traditions of the state. Special attention is paid to the influence of mining on Álamos and the fleeting prosperity it created for the town’s well-off, including rooms filled with antiques, period furniture and even a few vintage carriages.

TTours

Emiliano GrasedaTOURS

(%647-101-48-75; Madero s/n; tours M$300; c)

English-speaking Emiliano Graseda, who can be found at the state tourist office, offers local tours that take in Álamos’ landmarks and private homes and continue in the nearby village of La Aduana to visit a brickworks, artesanías (arts and crafts) workshops and a mission.

SolipasoADVENTURE

(%647-428-15-09, US 888-383-0062; www.solipaso.com; Privada s/n, Barrio el Chalatón; half-/full-day tours US$80/150)

Runs expert bird-watching trips to spot some of the 300 tropical bird species living around Álamos. Groups are small – one to four people – and guides are highly knowledgable. There are no regular office hours; call directly to book. Located at El Pedregal lodge.

Homes & Gardens TourWALKING

(%647-428-02-67; tours M$100; h10am Sat)

Meet outside Museo Costumbrista de Sonora for a two-hour tour of three lovingly restored colonial homes, all owned by expats. Volunteer guides lead the tours. Proceeds go to Amigos de Educación de Álamos, a local charity providing educational scholarships for school-age children. Late October to May only.

zFestivals & Events

oFestival Alfonso Ortíz TiradoMUSIC

(%662-213-44-11; www.festivalortiztirado.gob.mx; hlate Jan)

One of northern Mexico’s premier cultural events, Álamos’ nine-day late-January festival features top-class classical and chamber music, blues, bossa nova and trova (troubadour-type folk music) performed by artists from across the globe. The festival’s namesake, an Álamos native, was a revered opera singer and well-respected physician (Frida Kahlo was among his patients).

Tens of thousands of people descend upon the city during this festival – be sure to book your hotel well in advance.

4Sleeping

Álamos has atmospheric and attractive accommodations, many in converted colonial mansions featuring gorgeous interior design. However, peso-watchers should be aware that budget options are limited.

Such is the summer heat, the cooler months (October to April) are high season in Álamos, although year-round it’s largely a weekend town, with Mexicans coming from nearby cities to get away from it all. Midweek discounts are often available year-round.

Hotel DolisaHOTEL$

(%647-428-01-31; www.dolisa.com; Madero 72; s/d M$700/800; pnaW)

Spacious, modern rooms with a colonial-era touch – think high ceilings, stenciled walls and even adobe chimeneas (fireplaces) – make this a comfortable place to stay. Some have kitchenettes. All open onto breezy arched walkways. A huge parking lot (once used for RVs) makes it a good spot for those traveling with wheels. Located two long blocks from Plaza Alameda.

Hotel Luz del SolBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(%647-428-04-66; www.luzdelsolalamos.com; Obregón 3; r incl breakfast M$1300-1500; naWs)

Set in a updated colonial home, this small hotel has a warm ambience thanks to welcoming staff and the presence of one of the town’s best cafes. The three rooms open onto a central courtyard, each simply decorated but very spacious with sultan-sized beds, high ceilings and vast bathrooms with vintage tiling. A plunge pool and rooftop terrace are pluses.

Casa de las Siete ColumnasB&B$$

(%647-428-01-64; www.lassietecolumnas.com; Juárez 36; r incl breakfast M$900-1000; hmid-Oct–mid-Apr; naWs)

An inviting Canandian-owned hotel in an imposing centuries-old building – look for the stunning seven-columned front portico. Rooms surround a pretty, plant-filled courtyard and small heated pool, and feature beamed ceilings, fireplaces and tasteful decor. There’s a guests’ lounge with a TV and pool table.

oCasa Serena VistaB&B$$$

(%647-428-01-49; www.facebook.com/casaserenavista; Loma de Guadalupe 9; r incl breakfast US$85; aWs)

Perched above the central plaza, this homey 18th-century casona (mansion) has just three rooms. Each is decorated with touches that make you feel at home – a set of art books, a Persian rug, a flower-printed chair. There’s an airy living room where guests gather, a well-tended pool, and a sweeping patio with a koi pond and enviable views of downtown Álamos.

Two of the rooms have kitchenettes; the third has a microwave and small refrigerator. Casa Serena is owned and operated by longtime expat Diane Carpenter – an affable host with loads of tips about the town and stories about her native Alaska.

oHacienda de los SantosLUXURY HOTEL$$$

(%647-428-02-22; www.haciendadelossantos.com; Molina 8; r/ste incl breakfast from US$189/290; pnaiWs)

By far Álamos’ most exclusive place to stay, this hacienda encompasses three restored colonial houses and a sugar mill, three pools, three restaurants, a movie theater, spa, gym and bar (with a 520-strong tequila collection). Accommodations are luxurious and highly atmospheric, while the sheer size of the place and its lush gardens is simply remarkable. Children 12 and over only. Rates plummet in the hot months; M$50 tours of the property are given most days at 2pm.

Hotel ColonialHOTEL$$$

(%647-428-13-71; www.alamoshotelcolonial.com; Obregón 4; r/ste incl breakfast from M$2080/4050; pnaW)

The attention to detail at this historic mansion is highly impressive: it feels more like you are stepping into an Edwardian period drama than a Mexican hotel. The nine units mirror the sumptuous public areas, featuring tapestries, oil paintings, antiques and stately fireplaces. Also has an elegant restaurant as well as a spectacular rooftop bar/lounge.

El PedregalLODGE$$$

(%647-428-15-09, US 888-383-0062; www.elpedregalmexico.com; Privada s/n, Barrio el Chalatón; d/q incl breakfast US$110/140; pnaiWs) S

There are just eight lovely adobe and straw-bale cabins here, all with stylish artistic furnishings and luxury bedding scattered around 8 hectares of tropical deciduous forest on the edge of Álamos, 2km from the plaza. The welcoming owners are expert birders and lead tours. A good-sized pool, 3km of trails, a yoga studio and a massage parlor complete the scene.

5Eating & Drinking

MexicanadasMEXICAN$

(%647-482-76-54; Rosales s/n; mains M$40-80; h7am-9:30pm; vc)

You’ll be greeted by high ceilings, whirring fans and watercolor paintings of the local-turned-icon Maria Felix at this locals’ favorite. The menu is mostly Mexican classics – quesadillas, enchiladas, tostadas, chilaquiles – with a few hamburger and sandwich options thrown in. Meals are big and cheap so expect a full house most days.

Koky’sMEXICAN$

(Restaurant Dõna Lola; %647-428-11-09; Volantín s/n, off Juárez; mains M$50-110; h7am-10pm; c)

This fan-cooled, family-run place is both simple and welcoming, with a covered terrace at the rear. The soups are crammed with ingredients and there’s a huge menu of delicious antojitos (typical Mexican snacks – enchiladas, tacos, chilaquiles etc) and breakfasts as well. It can be found on a small side street south of the Plaza de Armas.

oTeresita’sBISTRO, BAKERY$$

(%647-428-01-42; www.teresitasalamos.com; Allende 46B; mains M$110-300; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; Wv)

It’s quite amazing that somewhere as small and remote as Álamos boasts this simply outstanding bakery-cum-bistro. There’s an open kitchen and a changing menu that features mouthwatering salads, pastas, steaks and paninis, as well as offerings less usual in rural Mexico: spicy chicken wings, gazpacho and Middle Eastern veggie bowls. Desserts are fully catered for with sublime cakes and pastries. Either eat in the fountain-flanked garden or enjoy the comfort of a royal-blue banquette inside.

Charisma RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$

(%647-428-09-68; www.facebook.com/pg/CharismaRestaurant; Obregón 2; mains M$160-250; h5:30-10pm Wed-Sat; v)

The menu changes often at this artful restaurant, but typically delivers big with traditional dishes like boeuf bourguignon, paella and chicken piccata, all served with flair. The setting is a colonial dining room with original art and twinkling lights. The bar is a popular hangout for expats. Located inside La Mansion hotel.

Café Luz del SolCAFE$$

(Café Luchy; %647-428-04-66; Obregón 3; mains M$90-190; h7:30am-6:30pm; W)

In a region cruelly deprived of decent coffee shops, this colonial cafe is a better find for caffeine-starved travelers than any silver mine. Devour beautifully prepared breakfasts, Mexican and North American lunches, homemade cakes and good coffee. There’s a cozy interior dining room hung with locally produced art, and a small patio replete with tropical flowers.

PatagoniaCOFFEE

(%647-428-17-65; Plaza de Armas, Guadalupe Victoria 5; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon & Tue, 9am-9pm Wed-Sun; c)

This sleek coffee shop offers a full range of coffee drinks, smoothies and healthy shakes. Grab a seat in its colonial courtyard or bring a sweater and enjoy the Arctic temperatures inside.

8Information

There are two tourism information offices in town – one run by the state (%647-428-04-50; Madero s/n; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri), the other by the city (%647-428-04-40; Palacio Municipal, cnr Juárez & Sinaloa; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri). While both are helpful, the state office is better run and is often staffed by a bilingual rep; it is located near the entrance to town.

Banorte (%800-226-67-83; www.banorte.com; Madero 37; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) ATM; money exchange.

Hospital General de Álamos (%647-428-02-25; Madero s/n; h8am-8pm) Basic local hospital with no emergency services.

8Getting There & Away

Álamos is 53km east of Navojoa and 156km north of Los Mochis. Álamos’ Transportes Baldomero Corral (%647-428-00-96; Morelos 7) bus terminal is serviced by Albatros (%647-428-00-96; www.albatrosautobuses.com; cnr Guerrero & No Reelección, Navojoa) 2nd-class buses from Navojoa (M$40, one hour) between 6:30am to 8:30pm (late bus at 10pm).

From Álamos, Albatros provides service to Navojoa from 5:30am to 7:30pm (late bus at 9pm); Hermosillo (M$290, six hours) four times daily; and Puerto Peñasco (M$650, 12 hours) at 3am.

In Navojoa, both Albatros and Tufesa (%642-421-32-10; www.tufesa.com.mx; cnr Hidalgo & No Reelección, Navojoa) have onward services to Hermosillo, Puerto Peñasco, Los Mochis, Mazatlán and Guaymas.

If you’re coming by car from Los Mochis, stick to the longer paved road via Navojoa, as the shorter back road is unpaved and rather wild for much of the journey.

Los Mochis

%668 / Pop 256,600

There is nothing much to detain you in Los Mochis, a giant urban sprawl mainly notable for being the first or last stop on El Chepe (Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico), and within an easy hop of ferries that link the mainland to Baja California. The climate here is perpetually humid and there are no real sights worth stopping for. However, if you’re venturing to Baja by boat or to the Copper Canyon by train, you may well find yourself staying overnight, and in that case you’ll actually find decent eating and sleeping options available, including what is said to be northern Mexico’s best seafood.

Los Mochis

1Sights

1 Casa del CentenarioB2

2Jardín Botánico Benjamin Francis JohnstonA2

3Museo Regional del Valle del FuerteB1

4Sleeping

4Best Western PlusC1

5Hotel FénixC1

5Eating

6El FarallónC2

7La Cabaña de Doña ChayoD2

8The Tuna ShopB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

9Alma MíaC1

1Sights

Jardín Botánico Benjamin Francis JohnstonGARDENS

(map Google map Parque Sinaloa; %668-818-18-14; www.jbbfj.org; Blvd Rosales 750; h5am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; c#) F

This verdant park occupies part of the former estate of Benjamin Johnston, the American who founded the sugar mill around which Los Mochis grew up in the early 20th century. Beyond an array of international trees and plants, there are running trails, water features, picnic areas and even a huge greenhouse (M$20) and butterfly pavilion with live specimens flitting about (M$20). Workshops and events are hosted year-round. Guided tours also available.

Museo Regional del Valle del FuerteMUSEUM

(map Google map %668-812-46-92; Obregón s/n; adult/child M$15/10; h9:30am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)

Set in a small two-story building, this museum covers the history of Sinaloa state from precolonial times to the present. One section highlights Los Mochis – it’s growth and economic importance as a top sugar producer. Exhibits incorporate video, artifacts and well-presented signage (in Spanish only).

Casa del CentenarioMUSEUM

(map Google map %668-817-25-52; Blvd Castro 667 Poniente; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

This one-time family home was built in 1945 by Conrado Ochoa Beltrán, then superintendent of the Ferrocarril Mexicano del Pacífico and second in command of the United Sugar Company. Today it houses government offices as well as a one-room museum on the economic development of Los Mochis from 1903 to 2003. Signage in Spanish only.

4Sleeping

Hotel FénixHOTEL$

(map Google map %668-812-26-23; hotelfenix@email.com; Flores 365 Sur; r M$545; paW)

This is the best moderately priced hotel in town, with welcoming staff, a sparkling lobby, an excellent restaurant and renovated rooms that represent good value. Accommodations can be on the small side, and some lack natural light, but as an overnight stop it’s a great choice.

oFiesta InnHOTEL$$

(%800-343-78-21, 668-500-02-00; www.fiestainn.com; Blvd Rosales 1435 Sur; r incl breakfast M$1286; pnaiWs)

Fiesta Inn is a spanking new hotel with an urban hipster vibe. Rooms are mid-century modern in design with simple lines and comfort in mind: thick mattresses, high thread count linens, rain-shower baths and lots of natural light. There’s a cozy lounge, gym and pool. And the breakfast buffet? Made-to-order omelettes and fresh squeezed juices – need we say more?

Best Western PlusHOTEL$$$

(map Google map %668-816-30-00, 800-700-42-43; www.bestwestern.com; Obregón 691 Poniente; r/ste incl breakfast M$1665/2713; pnaiWs)

Enjoying a prime spot overlooking the central plaza, this business-class hotel offers professional staff and service and very comfortable, carpeted rooms with modern bathrooms. It may be a big leap in price, but it’s a solid option.

5Eating & Drinking

La Cabaña de Doña ChayoTACOS$

(map Google map %668-818-54-98; Obregón 99 Poniente; tacos & quesadillas M$35-50; h8am-1am)

A simple yet enjoyable place with delectable quesadillas, burritos and tacos with carne asada (grilled beef) or machaca (spiced, shredded, dried beef). It’s fearsomely popular, and yet even at busy times the welcome is warm.

The Tuna ShopSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map La Medusa; %668-176-61-64; Obregón 878A Poniente; mains M$100-180; h7:30pm-1am Wed, 1pm-midnight Thu-Sat, 1-8pm Sun; W)

This sophisticated and thoroughly contemporary self-described ‘fish kitchen’ is a real find. The menu includes an excellent tuna burger, salmon teriyaki and dorado (dolphin fish) tacos, and you’ll even find a selection of excellent local-brewed artisanal beers. There’s an attached deli selling all manner of local culinary goodies that make for excellent souvenirs.

El FarallónSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map %668-812-12-73; www.farallon.com.mx; Obregón 499 Poniente; mains M$150-230; h7am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; aW)

A furiously air-conditioned, swanky seafood restaurant with a far-ranging selection of dishes: stick to the tried-and-tested Mexican and Sinaloan dishes (rather than fusion-style sushi rolls and the like) and you won’t go wrong. The ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon or lime juice, garlic and seasonings) and pescado a la plancha (grilled fish) are particularly recommended.

Alma MíaCAFE

(map Google map %668-812-7576; www.facebook.com/almamia.coffeeshop; Guerrero 401 Sur; h7am-11pm; W)

Excellent coffee drinks, friendly staff and even valet parking at this perky coffee shop on the main square. Good breakfasts (M$50 to M$80) are served too.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Los Mochis Airport (Aeropuerto Federal del Valle del Fuerte; %668-818-68-70; www.aeropuertosgap.com.mx; Carretera Los Mochis–Topolobampo Km 12.5) is located 18km south of town. It has regular flights to Mexico City, Chihuahua, Tijuana, Cabo San Lucas, Loreto, La Paz and Guadalajara with airlines including Aeroméxico Connect (%668-812-02-16; www.aeromexico.com.mx; Obregón 1104 Poniente; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat), Aéreo Calafia (www.aereocalafia.com.mx) and Volaris (www.volaris.com).

BUS

Despite being a big transportation hub, Los Mochis lacks a central bus station, meaning that each bus company operates from its own depot in the city. Particularly useful lines are Grupo Estrella Blanca (GEB), Transportes y Autobuses Pacífico (TAP) and Tufesa. The main intercity bus stations all have round-the-clock departures.

Azules del Noroeste (%668-812-34-91; Tenochtitlán 399 Poniente) Has 2nd-class buses to El Fuerte (M$70, one hour, 5am to 8:15pm). Tickets sold on the bus.

Grupo Estrella Blanca/Transportes y Autobuses Pacífico (GEB/TAP; %800-507-55-00; www.estrellablanca.com.mx; Pino Suárez 325) Deluxe and 1st-class buses to Mexico City, Guadalajara, Hermosillo and more.

Tufesa (%668-818-22-22, 644-410-24-44; www.tufesa.com.mx; Blvd Antonio Rosales 2465) Offers 1st-class buses to Phoenix, Navojoa (for Álamos), Mazatlán and Guadalajara. The terminal is 3km northeast of the center of Los Mochis (M$50 in a taxi).

BUSES FROM LOS MOCHIS

DESTINATION	FARE (M$)	DURATION (HR)	FREQUENCY (DAILY)
Guadalajara	945-1155	13-15	half-hourly TAP, 13 Tufesa
Guaymas	345-421	5-6	25 Tufesa
Hermosillo	469-576	6-7	half-hourly 1st-class GEB, half-hourly Tufesa
Mazatlán	469-662	6-7	frequent GEB/TAP, 11 Tufesa
Mexico City	1310-1600	23	11 GEB/TAP
Navojoa	223-291	2	frequent 1st-class GEB, 32 Tufesa
Phoenix	1316-1709	14-16	10 Tufesa

TRAIN

Los Mochis train station (%668-824-11-51, 800-122-43-73, Chihuahua 614-439-72-11; www.chepe.com.mx; Bienestar s/n; h5am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-9am & 10:30am-1pm Sat & Sun) is a hub of activity during arrival and departure times of the train. There’s an ATM and plenty of cabs.

The ticket office sells railway tickets up to a month ahead of travel; opening hours are notoriously unreliable, however. Alternatively, purchase your ticket by phone (recommended in the high season) or arrive an hour before departure to buy a ticket.

The station is located 4km southeast of the town center at the end of Bienestar; a taxi from downtown is around M$50.

FERRIES TO BAJA

Two ferry services link mainland northwest Mexico with Baja California:

From Topolobampo near Los Mochis, Baja Ferries (%668-818-68-93, 800-012-87-70; www.bajaferries.com; Local 5, cnr Blvds Rosales & Centenario; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) leaves at 11:59pm Monday to Friday and 11pm on Sunday to Pichilingue near La Paz in Baja; the trip takes around seven hours. On the return, the ferry leaves Pichilingue at 2:30pm Monday to Friday and 11pm on Saturday. If traveling around Semana Santa and Christmas–New Year and in June and July, reserve a month ahead. You can buy tickets in Los Mochis or, on departure day, at the Topolobampo terminal. Vehicles can also be transported on this route.

The Ferry Santa Rosalía (%622-222-02-04, 800-505-50-18; www.ferrysantarosalia.com/tarifas.php; Calz García López 1598 Bis, Guaymas; h8am-2pm & 3:30-8pm Mon-Sat) sails from Guaymas for Santa Rosalía, Baja California, at 8pm Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, arriving the next morning around 6am. From mid-November to mid-March, strong winds may cause delays, and Tuesday and Wednesday sailings are occasionally canceled in low season. The ferry returns from Santa Rosalía on Wednesday and Friday at 8:30am (arriving the same day around 6:30pm) and on Sunday at 8pm (arriving the following day at 6am). The ticket office is 2km east of Guaymas city center, though reservations are only necessary if you want a cabin or are taking a vehicle (three days in advance is sufficient). All passengers and vehicles should be at the terminal by 6:30pm.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

A cab to the airport costs around M$180.