As well as flying in, you can enter Mexico by car or bus from the US, Guatemala or Belize and take a boat from the Belizian coast to Quintana Roo. Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
US citizens traveling by land or sea can enter Mexico and return to the US with a passport card, but if traveling by air will need a passport. Citizens of other countries need their passport to enter Mexico. Some nationalities also need a visa.
More than 30 Mexican airports receive direct flights from the US (some from several US cities, some from just a couple), and some of them also receive direct flights from Canada. Mexico City (www.aicm.com.mx), Cancún (www.cancun-airport.com), Guadalajara, Monterrey (http://www.oma.aero/en/airports/monterrey/) and Puerto Vallarta are Mexico’s busiest international airports. Only Mexico City and Cancún receive direct scheduled flights from European, Caribbean and Central and South American countries, with Cancún offering the most options from Europe.
Mexico’s flagship airline is Aeroméxico (www.aeromexico.com); its safety record is comparable to major US and European airlines. Mexico’s Interjet (www.interjet.com.mx) and Volaris (www.volaris.com) fly to several US cities. Interjet also flies to Havana and Varadero in Cuba, Guatemala City, San Jose, Costa Rica and Lima, Peru.
Frequent buses run from Chetumal’s Nuevo Mercado Lázaro Cárdenas to the Belizean towns of Corozal (M$50, one hour) and Orange Walk (M$100, two hours). Some continue on to Belize City (M$300, four hours).
Each person leaving Belize for Mexico needs to pay a US$15 exit fee for visits of less than 24 hours and US$20 for longer stays. All fees must be paid in cash, in Belizean or US currency; officials usually won’t have change for US currency. Exit fees are likely to increase in 2018.
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on airplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometer per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
The road borders at Ciudad Cuauhtémoc–La Mesilla, Ciudad Hidalgo–Ciudad Tecún Umán and Talismán–El Carmen are all linked to Guatemala City and nearby cities within Guatemala and Mexico by plentiful buses and/or combis. The Ciudad Hidalgo–Ciudad Tecún Umán border is the busiest, and famous for shakedowns on the Guatemalan side; Talismán–El Carmen is definitely the border crossing to go for.
The following companies run daily buses between Tapachula, Chiapas and Guatemala City (five to six hours):
Tica Bus (www.ticabus.com) M$407; 7am.
Trans Galgos Inter (www.facebook.com/TransGalgosInternacional) M$330-445; 6am, noon and 11.45pm.
Between Chetumal and Flores, Línea Dorada runs one daily bus each way (M$700, 7½-8 hours) via Belize City.
For the Río Usumacinta route between Palenque, Mexico, and Flores, there are vans between Palenque and Frontera Corozal (M$130, 2½ to three hours), from where it’s a 40-minute boat trip to Bethel, Guatemala (M$80 to M$450 per person, depending on numbers). From Bethel hourly 2nd-class buses run to Flores (four hours) until 4pm.
Travel agencies in Palenque and Flores offer bus-boat-bus packages between the two places for around M$610 (nine hours), typically departing at 6am, but if you’re traveling this route it’s well worth taking the time to visit the outstanding Maya ruins at Yaxchilán, near Frontera Corozal.
Another possible route between Mexico and Flores is via the border at El Ceibo, near Tenosique, Tabasco. Vans, buses and taxis run between Tenosique and El Ceibo, and there are vans between the border and Flores.
The airport departure tax Tarifa de Uso de Aeropuerto (TUA) is almost always included in your airline ticket cost, but if it isn’t, you must pay in cash during airport check-in. It varies from airport to airport and costs approximately M$900 for international flights and a little less for domestic flights. This tax is separate from the fee for your tourist permit, which is always included in airfares.
There are more than 40 official crossing points on the US–Mexico border. Some Mexican cities on the border and elsewhere in northern Mexico are affected by drug-gang violence, so check travel warnings before you go. Ciudad Juárez and Nuevo Laredo are best avoided altogether, or at least passed through as quickly as possible. Hwys 101 and 180 between Matamoros and Tampico were ones to avoid at the time of research due to frequent armed robberies and carjackings.
In Baja, the Santa Inés border crossing is the busiest, so it’s best for travelers to use another, such as Tecate, for visiting the Valle de Guadelupe.
A pedestrian-only crossing has been operating between the US and Mexico at Boquillas del Carmen–Big Bend National Park since 2014.
Cross-border bus services link many US and Mexican cities. On most trips you will transfer between a US and a Mexican bus on the US or Mexican side of the border, although you can usually buy a ticket right through to your final destination thanks to affiliations between different bus lines.
Greyhound (www.greyhound.com.mx) From California, Arizona and Texas to border cities, with onward transfers into northwest Mexico.
Ómnibus Mexicanos (www.omnibusmexicanos.com.mx) From Texas to northeast, central north and central Mexico.
Transportes Supremo (www.facebook.com/Transportes-Supremo-1614999715450044/) Shuttle-van service between Phoenix, Sonoyta, Nogales, Yuma, Agua Prieta and Puerto Peñasco.
Tufesa (www.tufesa.com.mx) From many cities in the US southwest and California to northwest Mexico, Mazatlán and Guadalajara.
Turimex Internacional (www.turimex.com) From Chicago, Texas and southeastern US to northeast, central north and central Mexico.
Most routes are covered by several buses daily. You can (often as quickly) go to the border on one bus (or train – see www.amtrak.com), cross it on foot or by local bus then catch an onward bus when you get to the other side.
The rules for taking a vehicle into Mexico change from time to time. Check with a Mexican consulate, Sanborn’s (www.sanbornsinsurance.com) or, in the US, the free Mexican tourist information number (800-482-9832).
Driving into Mexico is most useful for travelers who have plenty of time, like independence, have surfboards, diving equipment or other cumbersome luggage and/or will be traveling with at least one companion. Drivers should know at least a little Spanish and have basic mechanical knowledge. A sedan with a trunk (boot) provides safer storage than a station wagon or hatchback.
Mexican mechanics are resourceful, but take as many spare parts as you can manage (spare fuel filters are very useful). Tires (including spare), shock absorbers and suspension should be in good condition. For security, have something to immobilize the steering wheel and consider getting a kill switch installed.
Motorcycling in Mexico is not for the fainthearted. Roads and traffic can be rough, and parts and mechanics hard to come by. The parts you’ll most easily find will be for Kawasaki, Honda and Suzuki bikes.
Finding a gas station at or near the border crossings is not a problem.
You will need a permiso de importación temporal de vehículo (temporary vehicle import permit), costing US$45 (not including IVA tax), if you want to take a vehicle into Mexico beyond the border zone that extends 20km to 30km into Mexico along the US frontier and up to 70km from the Guatemalan and Belizean frontiers. The only exceptions to this are the Baja California peninsula, where the permit is not needed, and Sonora state as far south as Guaymas, which offers a cheaper, simplified procedure – but you will need a permit if you embark a vehicle at Pichilingue (La Paz) in Baja California, on a ferry to ‘mainland’ Mexico.
The vehicle permits are issued by offices at border crossings, or at posts a few kilometers into Mexico, and also at Ensenada port and Pichilingue ferry terminal in Baja California. Details of all these locations, including their opening hours, are given on the website of Banjército (www.banjercito.com.mx), the bank that deals with vehicle-import procedures. US and Canadian residents can also apply for the permit (at least a couple of weeks before your trip) on Banjército’s website (‘Application for Temporary Import Permit for Vehicles’), in which case it will be delivered to you by courier. The online procedure also involves obtaining electronic pre-authorization for your Mexican tourist permit.
The person importing the vehicle will need to carry the original and one or two photocopies of each of the following documents, which must all be in their own name (except that you can bring in your spouse’s, parent’s or child’s vehicle if you can show a marriage or birth certificate proving your relationship):
Atourist permit (FMM); at the border go to migración before you process your vehicle permit
Acertificate of title, or registration certificate, for the vehicle (you should have both of these if you plan to drive through Mexico into either Guatemala or Belize)
Aa Visa or MasterCard credit or debit card issued outside Mexico, or a cash deposit of between US$200 and US$400 (depending on how old the car is). Your card details or deposit serve as a guarantee that you’ll take the car out of Mexico before your FMM expires
Apassport or US passport card
Aif the vehicle is not fully paid for, a credit contract, or invoice letter not more than three months old, from the financing institution
Afor a leased or rented vehicle, the contract, in the name of the person importing the vehicle and notarised letter of permission
Afor a company car, proof of employment by the company as well as proof of the company’s ownership of the vehicle
When you leave Mexico, you must have the import permit canceled at the border to insure that your deposit is returned to you. A permit is valid for six months, during which you may enter Mexico multiple times. You have to exit Mexico before the expiration date or else the authorities may deny you permission to bring a vehicle into the country next time.
Belize Water Taxi (www.belizewatertaxi.com) sails daily between Chetumal, Mexico and San Pedro (US$50) and Caye Caulker (US$55) in Belize.
More than 60 Mexican cities have airports with scheduled passenger services. Flying can be good value on longer journeys.
Aeroméxico (including its subsidiary, Aeroméxico Connect) has the biggest network, but Interjet, TAR Aerolíneas, Volaris and VivaAerobus also serve many cities, often with lower fares. VivaAerobus offers some particularly low fares, but its website may not accept all foreign credit or bank cards.
Volaris and Interjet serve some international destinations. Mexico’s regional airlines tend to have a decent safety record.
AIRLINES IN MEXICO
AIRLINE | WEBSITE | AREAS SERVED |
---|---|---|
Aéreo Calafia | www.aereocalafia.com.mx | Baja California, Pacific Coast, Guadalajara, Monterrey, León, Chihuahua, Puerto Vallarta |
Aéreo Servicios Guerrero | www.asg.com.mx | 9 cities in Baja and the Pacific Coast |
Aeromar | www.aeromar.com.mx | 25 cities nationwide, excluding Baja |
Aeroméxico | www.aeromexico.com | 44 cities nationwide; most flights from Mexico City and Monterrey |
Interjet | www.interjet.com.mx | 34 cities nationwide |
Magnicharters | www.magnicharters.com | 16 destinations nationwide, including Riviera Maya coastal resorts |
Mayair | www.mayair.com.mx | Yucatán Peninsula, Veracruz |
TAR Aerolíneas | www.tarmexico.com | 25 cities nationwide, excluding Baja |
VivaAerobus | www.vivaaerobus.com | 32 cities nationwide |
Volaris | www.volaris.com | 41 cities nationwide |
Vehicle and passenger ferries connecting Baja California with the Mexican mainland sail between Santa Rosalía and Guaymas (one-way seat/cabin M$930/1030, car M$3200); La Paz and Mazatlán (one-way seat M$1240, three services weekly); and La Paz and Topolobampo (one-way seat ticket M$1100, car M$2200).
Mexico has a good road network and comfortable, frequent, reasonably priced bus services connect all cities. Most cities and towns have one main bus terminal from which all long-distance buses operate. It may be called the Terminal de Autobuses, Central de Autobuses, Central Camionera or La Central (not to be confused with el centro, the city center!).
Bus stations in major cities tend to be generally clean, safe and highly functional.
Mexico’s buses (called camiones, unlike in other Spanish-speaking countries) have three classes.
A Buses do occasionally get held up and robbed. Traveling by day and on deluxe or 1st-class buses, which use toll highways where possible, minimizes this risk.
A Baggage is safe if stowed in the baggage hold – get a receipt for it when you hand it over. Keep your most valuable possessions in the cabin with you.
A Air-conditioned buses can get cold, so wear long pants or a skirt and take a sweater or jacket and maybe a blanket on board. Eye-masks and earplugs can be handy if you don’t want to watch videos the entire trip!
De lujo services, primera plus and the even more comfortable ejecutivo (executive) buses run mainly on the busier intercity routes. They are swift and comfortable, with reclining seats, plenty of legroom, air-conditioning, movies on (individual) video screens, few or no stops, toilets on board (sometimes separate ones for men and women) and often drinks, snacks and even wi-fi. They use toll roads wherever available.
Primera (1a) clase buses have a comfortable numbered seat for each passenger. All sizable towns are served by 1st-class buses. Standards of comfort are adequate at the very least. The buses have air-conditioning and a toilet, and they stop infrequently. They show movies on TV screens. They also use toll roads where possible.
Segunda (2a) clase or ‘económico’ buses serve small towns and villages and provide cheaper, slower travel on some intercity routes. A few are almost as quick, comfortable and direct as 1st-class buses. Others are old, slow and shabby. Few have toilets. These buses tend to take non-toll roads and will stop anywhere to pick up passengers, so if you board midroute you might make some of the trip standing. In remoter areas, they are often the only buses available.
For 1st-class, deluxe and executive buses, buy your ticket in the bus terminal before the trip; it may also be possible to purchase tickets online, depending on the bus company, and have the ticket emailed to you. For trips of up to four or five hours on routes with frequent service, you can usually just go to the bus terminal, buy a ticket and head out without much delay. For longer trips, or routes with infrequent service, or for any trip at busy holiday times, it’s best to buy a ticket a day or more in advance. You can usually select your seat when you buy your ticket. Try to avoid the back of the bus, which is where the toilets are located and also tends to give a bumpier ride.
Many 2nd-class services have no ticket office; you just pay your fare to the conductor.
In some cities you can buy bus tickets from downtown bus service agencies to avoid an extra trip to the bus terminal.
BUS COMPANIES
Mexico has hundreds of bus companies. Many of the major ones belong to the four large groups that dominate bus transportation in different parts of the country. Their websites have schedule information.
BUS COMPANY | WEBSITE | DESTINATIONS SERVED |
---|---|---|
ETN Turistar | www.etn.com.mx | All major cities along the Pacific coast, central, northern and eastern Mexico and destinations as far south as Oaxaca. Also Tuscon, El Paso and San Diego. |
Grupo ADO | www.ado.com.mx | Connects Mexico City with numerous cities in the Yucatán, Campeche, Quintana Roo, Tabasco, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla, Guerrero and Veracruz. |
Grupo Estrella Blanca | www.estrellablanca.com.mx | Mexico City and the center, north and west of Mexico. Major cities such as Guadalajara, Tijuana, Puebla, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta, Ciudad Juárez. |
Primera Plus | www.primeraplus.com.mx | Destinations around the center of the country include Mexico City, Guadalajara, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, San Luis Potosí and San Miguel de Allende. |
Having a vehicle in Mexico gives you a whole lot of flexibility and freedom, and with a little adaptation to local road conditions is no more difficult than in most other countries.
To drive a motor vehicle in Mexico, you need a valid driver’s license from your home country.
All gasolina (gasoline) and diesel fuel in Mexico is sold by the government’s monopoly, Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos). Most towns, even small ones, have a Pemex station, and stations are pretty common on most major roads. In remote areas, fill up whenever you can. Gasoline is all sin plomo (unleaded). There are two varieties:
Magna (87 octane) Roughly equivalent to US regular unleaded, costing about M$15.99 per liter (US$3.40 per US gallon).
Premium (91 octane and lower in sulfur content) Roughly equivalent to US super unleaded, costing about M$17.79.
Diesel fuel is widely available at around M$20.59 per liter. Regular Mexican diesel has a higher sulfur content than US diesel, but a bajo azufre (low sulfur) variety has started to become available in Mexico City and some nearby areas. Gas stations have pump attendants (who appreciate a tip of around M$5).
It is essential to have Mexican liability insurance. If you are involved in an accident in Mexico, you can be jailed and have your vehicle impounded while responsibility is assessed. If you are to blame for an accident causing injury or death, you may be detained until you guarantee restitution to the victims and payment of any fines. Adequate Mexican insurance coverage is the only real protection: it is regarded as a guarantee that restitution will be paid.
Mexican law recognizes only Mexican motor insurance (seguro), so a US or Canadian policy, even if it provides coverage, is not acceptable to Mexican officialdom. You can buy Mexican motor insurance online through the long-established Sanborn’s (www.sanbornsinsurance.com) and other companies. Mexican insurance is also sold in border towns in the US and at some border points. At the busiest border crossings there are insurance offices open 24 hours a day.
Short-term insurance is about US$18 a day for full coverage on a car worth under US$10,000. For periods longer than two weeks, it’s often cheaper to get a semi-annual or annual policy. Liability-only insurance costs around half the full coverage cost.
The Mexican tourism secretariat, Sectur, maintains a network of Ángeles Verdes (Green Angels) – bilingual mechanics in green uniforms and green trucks who patrol 60,000km of major highways and toll roads throughout the country daily from 8am to 6pm looking for tourists in trouble. They can give you directions, make minor repairs, change tires, provide fuel and oil and arrange towing and other assistance if necessary. Service is free, and parts, gasoline and oil are provided at cost. If you have access to a telephone, you can call the hotline by dialling %078.
Auto rental in Mexico can be expensive by US or European standards, but is not difficult to organize. Many major international rental firms have offices throughout the country.
Renters must provide a valid driver’s license (your home license is OK), passport and major credit card, and are usually required to be at least 21 years of age (sometimes 25, or if you’re aged 21 to 24 you may have to pay a surcharge). Read the small print of the rental agreement. In addition to the basic rental rate, there will be tax and insurance costs. Comprehensive insurance can more than double the basic cost quoted in some online bookings – you’ll usually have the option of liability-only insurance at a lower rate. Ask exactly what the insurance options cover: theft and damage insurance may only cover a percentage of costs, or the insurance might not be valid for travel on rough country tracks. It’s best to have plenty of liability coverage.
Rental rates typically start around M$600 to M$700 per day, including unlimited kilometers, basic insurance and tax. In some beach resorts you may pay as little as M$500. If you rent by the week or month, per-day costs come down. The extra charge for drop-off in another city, when available, is usually about M$10 per kilometer.
Motorbikes or scooters can be rented in a few tourist centers. You’re usually required to have a driver’s license and a credit card. Many renters do not offer any insurance, however.
AMexico’s highways are serviceable and fairly fast when traffic is not heavy. There are more than 6000km of toll highways (autopistas), which are generally good, four-lane roads. Tolls cost around M$2.50 per kilometer.
ADriving at night is best avoided, since unlit vehicles, hard-to-see speed bumps, rocks, pedestrians and animals on the roads are common, and drunk drivers are more numerous – and general highway security is better by day.
ASome hijackings, holdups and illegal roadblocks connected with drug-gang activities occur, mainly in the north. The northeastern states of Tamaulipas and Nuevo León are especially notorious – particularly the Tampico–Matamoros road and Hwys 101 and 180 in Tamaulipas, which are particularly renowned for armed robberies and carjackings. In this part of the country especially, it is best to stick to toll highways, avoid driving after dark, and keep doors locked and windows closed when driving through cities. Check travel warnings and seek local advice. If you do become a victim, do not try to resist.
AThere are also some perfectly genuine military and police roadblocks, which are generally looking for illegal weapons, drugs, migrants or contraband. They are unlikely to give tourists a hard time and are no cause for alarm.
AIt’s best to leave vehicles in secure lock-up parking lots overnight. These are fairly common in cities, and hotels can tell you where they are if they don’t have their own secure parking.
AAbout 13 out of every 100,000 Mexicans die in road accidents each year – more than double the rate of most Western countries. Driving under the influence of alcohol and non-use of seat belts are more prevalent here, but otherwise Mexicans seem to drive as cautiously and sensibly as people anywhere. Traffic density, poor surfaces, speed bumps, animals, bicycles and pedestrians all help to keep speeds down.
ABe wary of Alto (Stop) signs, topes (speed bumps) and potholes in the road (quite often on motorways, too). They are often not where you’d expect them and missing one can cost you in traffic fines or car damage. ‘Tope’ or ‘Vibradores’ signs warn you of many speed bumps – the deadly ones are the unmarked ones with no warning signs!
AThere is always the chance that you will be pulled over by traffic police. If this happens, stay calm and polite. If you don’t think you have committed an infraction, you don’t have to pay a bribe, and acting dumb may eventually make the cop give up. You can also ask to see the officer’s identification, the documentation about the law you have supposedly broken, ask to speak to a superior, and note the officer’s name, badge number, vehicle number and department (federal, state or municipal). If you’re told that it’s cheaper to pay a ticket on the spot, make it clear that you want to pay any fines at a police station and get a receipt; bribe-seekers are likely to let you go at this point. If you then wish to make a complaint, head for a state tourist office.
ADrive on the right-hand side of the road.
ASpeed limits range between 80km/h and 120km/h on open highways (less when the highways pass through areas that are built-up), and between 30km/h and 50km/h in towns and cities.
AOne-way streets are the rule in cities.
ALegal blood-alcohol limits for drivers range from 0.5g/L to 0.8g/L – roughly two or three beers or tequilas.
AAntipollution rules in Mexico City ban most vehicles from the city’s roads on one day each week.
Cycling is not a common way to tour Mexico. The size of the country, poor road surfaces, careless motorists and other road hazards are deterrents. If you’re up for the challenge, take the mountainous topography and hot climate into account when planning your route. All cities have bicycle stores: a decent mountain bike suitable for a few weeks’ touring costs around M$5000.
Consider the bring-your-own-bike tours of southern Mexico and the central volcano country offered by the fun and friendly ¡El Tour (www.bikemexico.com) or else join an Exodus Travels (www.exodus.co.uk) tour of the Yucatán Peninsula.
Bicycle culture is on the up in Mexican cities, however. Most of them are flat enough to make cycling an option and there is a growing number of designated bicycle lanes in Mexico City, Guadalajara, Puebla, Monterrey and some other large cities. Mexico City offers free bike rental. There are bicycle-sharing schemes in Guadalajara (www.mibici.net), Mexico City (www.ecobici.cdmx.gob.mx) and Puebla (www.bicipuebla.com). They work in the same way as other global bike-shares. You can hire decent road and mountain bikes in several other towns for M$300 to M$700 per day. Seek out routes that are less traffic-infested and you should enjoy it. Mass rides on Sundays are a growing phenomenon, particularly in Mexico City.
These are all names for vehicles that function as something between a taxi and a bus, running along fixed urban routes usually displayed on the windshield. They’re cheaper than taxis and quicker than buses. They will pick you up or drop you off on any corner along their route – to stop one, go to the curb and wave your hand. Tell the driver where you want to go. Usually you pay at the end of the trip and the fare (a little higher than a bus fare) depends on how far you go.
Generally known as camiones, local buses are usually the cheapest way to get around cities and out to nearby towns and villages. They run frequently, and fares in cities are just a few pesos. In many cities, fleets of small, modern microbuses have replaced the noisy, dirty older buses.
Buses usually halt only at fixed paradas (bus stops), though in some places you can hold your hand out to stop one at any street corner.
Taxis are common in towns and cities, and surprisingly economical. City rides cost around M$20 to M$25 per kilometer. If a taxi has a meter, you can ask the driver if it’s working (‘¿Funciona el taxímetro?’). If the taxi doesn’t have a functioning meter, establish the price of the ride before getting in (this may involve a bit of haggling).
Many airports and some big bus terminals have a system of authorized ticket-taxis – you buy a fixed-price ticket to your destination from a special taquilla (ticket window) and then hand it to the driver instead of paying cash. This saves haggling and major rip-offs, but fares are usually higher than you could get on the street.
Renting a taxi for a day-long out-of-town jaunt generally costs something similar to a cheap rental car – around M$600 to M$700.
Uber has become increasingly popular, as well as a similar app-based taxi service called Cabify.
The spectacular Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico (El Chepe; %614-439-72-12, from Mexico 800-122-43-73; www.chepe.com.mx; full journey 1st/2nd class M$3276/1891;
c), running through the Sierra Madre Occidental between Los Mochis and Chihuahua, is one of the highlights of travel in Mexico and the country’s only remaining passenger train.
Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey all have metro (subway, underground railway) systems. Mexico City’s, in particular, is a quick, cheap and useful way of getting around. With 195 stations and over four million passengers every weekday, it’s the world’s third-busiest subway, so avoid using it in rush hour.